USA > New Hampshire > Rockingham County > Rye > History of the town of Rye, New Hampshire, from its discovery and settlement to December 31, 1903 > Part 14
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many places the road was widened and the grade improved. On Sagamore road, in front of the house of Supply F. Trefe- then, the tracks were laid behind a handsome and thrifty row of shade trees, the land for the widening necessary to allow this having been given by Mr. Trefethen; and in another place, on Central road, a similar turnout from the old highway is made to avoid damage to a row of very handsome maples.
This railway transports great numbers of people to and from Hampton beach during the summer, and is patronized to a con- siderable extent by the summer visitors at Rye. Since it was built quite a number of Portsmouth business men have had cot- tages erected at some of Rye's beaches, where during the warm months they pass the nights with their families, the electrics taking them to Portsmouth in the morning in time for the day's business. An early morning car is run every working day, which enables many Rye mechanics to have employment in Portsmouth or at the navy yard, and be at their homes every night. And its cars are a great convenience for many of the farmers of Rye and their families throughout the year.
A SUBMERGED FOREST.
Off the easterly or northerly, as the reader prefers, end of Jenness beach can be seen at extremely low tides, 150 feet or more from high water mark, the remains of what was once a forest of large trees, in the shape of great stumps that in the course of many years, perhaps of centuries, have been ground down almost to their roots by the action of the sand-laden waves, but which are still held in the positions in which they grew by their huge, gnarled roots, with a tenacity which the mighty force of the ocean in its wildest moods has never been able to overcome. These stumps of cedar and other varieties of trees are hidden from sight at ordinary low tides; sometimes at very low tide but few of them are visible, the larger number being covered with a coating of sand, which will be washed clear of them by the next storm from the right direction. How far the stumps extend out under the sea is unknown, the tide having never receded far enough to disclose the outer edge of
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the group. That there was a heavy growth of trees there at some time, long ago, is evident; but how long ago, neither history nor tradition informs us. The place where they grew was then dry land; dry, that is, so far as the ocean is con- cerned, for trees of their kind do not thrive or even live in localities where their roots are frequently covered with salt water. The forest must have disappeared before the advent of the first settlers, for had it been submerged after their arrival,
1
CEDAR STUMPS AND CABLE AT JENNESS BEACH.
even by the gradual encroachment of the sea upon its site, it certainly would have received mention in the writings of some- body. The submergence may have been due to a sudden sub- sidence of the coast, but this is a mere speculation. All that can be said positively of the stumps is that they are still there. Even when they were first discovered is not known. One of Rye's oldest residents of fifty years ago, being asked about them, replied : "Why, everybody in Rye always knew they were there."
In the accompanying illustration can be seen the Direct
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United States Cable company's cable, washed out of the sand by a heavy sea, and showing close to the stumps.
THE CABLE STATION.
On the southerly side of Locke's neck, quite near the Rye beach life-saving station, is the receiving station of the cable of the Direct United States Cable company, a neat but neither large nor pretentious building. This company's cable, at the time it was completed in 1874, was the only ocean telegraph cable having one end in Europe and the other on the shore of the United States, and it was from this circumstance that the company took its name of "Direct" cable company. Pre- viously-laid cables had all made their land connections on the westerly side of the Atlantic in the British provinces, all mes- sages being sent from there to their destinations in the United States by overland wires. Even the Direct cable does not come direct to the United States, it touching first at Halifax, Nova Scotia, from which place a cable 540 nautical miles in length extends to Rye beach, the company's main cable, from Halifax to Ballinskelligs bay, Ireland, being 2,564 miles long, making the total length of cable between the Irish coast and Rye beach 3, 104 miles.
The Direct cable was laid by the steamer Faraday, which was built expressly for the purpose, and subsequently laid at least six other Atlantic cables. In laying the Direct cable the Faraday was assisted by the steamers Ambassador and Dacia. The short cable, as the sections between Rye beach and Hali- fax is called, was the first laid, and the shore end at Rye beach was landed on Wednesday, July 15, 1874, and connection made with the end of the cable that had been buoyed off the Isles of Shoals a week or more earlier. The landing of the shore end had been announced to take place several days before it did, and on that day many thousands of expectant watchers gath- ered along the shore, but only to be disappointed, dense fogs to the eastward preventing the arrival on time of the stcamer Ambassador, which was to land the shore end and make the connection with the cable already laid by the Faraday.
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Notwithstanding this delay and disappointment, the interest aroused by the arrival in Portsmouth lower harbor on Sunday, July 12, of the Ambassador, was intense, and when the vessel steamed out to a position about 1,500 yards off Locke's neck on Tuesday afternoon, and came to anchor there, a throng of people numbering many thousands, on foot, on horseback, and in carriages, was waiting along the shore to assist in the exer- cises as spectators, and a party of enthusiasts who had brought two small cannon from Kittery to fire a salute of one hundred guns as soon as the shore end was landed were all ready to be- gin their share of the celebration at any moment. But there was a vast amount of work yet to be done before the cable could be sent ashore, and as night came on the crowd gradually thinned out until by midnight very little of it remained.
On Wednesday morning the shore section of the cable, weighing about fifteen tons, was loaded from the steamer upon a platform laid upon two steam launches, and at about three o'clock in the afternoon the shore end of it was successfully landed, amid the booming of cannon and the enthusiastic cheers of the faithful few who had remained to see the work completed. It took about an hour to place the cable in the trench that had been dug to receive it, quite a number of ladies taking hold of the rope attached to the cable and assisting to drag it to high water mark; and the work of splicing took about two hours more. Then the Ambassador's guns replied to the ones on shore, rockets were sent up from the ship and blue lights burned, and there was hearty cheering by the crowd that had again been attracted to the beach. The sea was as smooth as a mill pond all through the day, which greatly favored the work, and no mishaps of any kind occurred. And thus was com- pleted the landing of the first Atlantic cable to be landed on United States soil.
After finishing her work in shore the Ambassador weighed anchor at about half-past nine o'clock that evening, proceeded to the Shoals and picked up the cable there, and made the splice. The entire line was completed and opened for business
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early in September following, and has been doing its fair share of international telegraphing ever since.
Now there are many cables that land in the United States, including the French cable, which lands at Duxbury, Mass., and the Mackay-Bennett cable, which lands at Rockport, Mass. Cable laying attracts no larger share of public notice than other large business transactions, and the starting of a cable squadron at laying down a new line gets only a paragraph or two in the general news columns of the daily papers; and even the completion, not long ago, of the commercial cable from San Francisco to the Hawaiian and Philippine islands, the only ocean cable that has both its terminals on United States territory and that is wholly under American control, did not receive from the press of the country such extended and de- tailed reports as were given thirty years ago to the landing of the shore end of the Direct United States cable at Rye beach.
LIFE-SAVING STATION.
Life-saving service is a term specifically used to designate organized effort and equipment for the saving of life in cases of shipwreck upon or near the seashore of the United States, or the shores of the great lakes; and the buildings where the trained crews of the service, with their boats and other ap- pliances, are housed, are termed life-saving stations. The Danish government supports about fifty such stations, and the Belgian government a few; with these exceptions the life-saving service of the United States is the only government establish- ment of the kind in the world, even the life-boat service of Great Britain being entirely in the hands of the Royal National Life-boat Institution, a corporation depending entirely upon voluntary contributions for its support and the maintenance of its beneficent efforts. The number of stations maintained by the United States is now nearing the 300 mark, the number in 1900 having been 268, this great number being necessitated by the vast extent of this country's coast on the Atlantic and Pacific oceans, the Gulf of Mexico, and the Great Lakes. New stations are established every year, but there are still many
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stretches-and some of them long ones-of dangerous coast not thus guarded, and if every place where a station is really needed had one the number would probably be several times greater than it is.
Not only is the life-saving service of this country the most extensive in the world, but it is a matter in which every Ameri- can can justly take pride that it is conceded by the maritime experts of all other countries to be the best and most efficient. No other country has so extensive and continuous a system of beach patrol, and many of the most important appliances, in-
LIFE-SAVING STATION, WALLIS SANDS.
cluding the gun for shooting a line over a wreck, are of Ameri- can invention. The station buildings are houses a story and a half high, having from six to eight rooms, and supplied with every modern appliance for rendering aid-life boats, surf boats, line-throwing guns, hawsers, hauling lines, life cars, breeches buoys, etc. A station crew consists of a captain and six, seven, or eight surfmen, the captain's duty continuing the year through, while the surfmen serve but ten months, being discharged on the 3 1st day of May to be reinstated (perhaps) on the Ist of
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August following-a very shortsighted procedure on the part of the government, neither sensible, generous, nor just.
There is no service, public or private, of which the members are more devoted, faithful, and self-sacrificing than are those of our life-saving service ; yet it is impossible that the surfmen en- gaged for only a limited term and to be sent adrift at its end, should take the same pride in the service and feel the same eagerness to always do their very best that they would if their employment was permanent, to be terminated only by miscon- duct or physical disqualification for further duty. And the dis- persion of a disciplined crew, who not only know their duties but know each other and what each man can do, must be det- rimental to the efficiency of the crew that takes its place two months later, even though the membership should be little if any changed. And after the surfmen have faced the storms and borne the hardships of the winter and spring months to discharge them when pleasant weather becomes due, for the sole purpose of saving their very moderate compensation during the two months they are expected to have few calls for their services, is ungenerous to the men, and a piece of cheese-paring parsimony unworthy a great and wealthy nation. The surfmen of the life-saving service will not have received from congress the consideration they deserve until they have been given per- manent employment, with pensions for permanent disability incurred in the service and for the wives and children of men who lose their lives in the line of duty.
Of the four life-saving stations on New Hampshire's short line of sea-coast, two, the Rye Beach and Wallis Sands stations, are in Rye; another, the Jaffrey's Point station (it was the " Jerry's Point " station when established, and until within a year or two, when the government changed the name of the point back to the one it bore over two hundred years ago, when it was owned by George Jaffrey, who built the house still standing next to the government reservation at the new Fort Stark) is on the southeast point of Great island; and the fourth, the Hampton Beach station (which when established was called the Great Boar's Head station, but had its name changed by
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the department recently), is on the shore of Hampton, a mile and a half northerly of Great Boar's Head. The Rye Beach station, established in 1873 and the first built of the four, was originally located near the northerly end of Jenness beach, but in 1890 a larger and more modern house was erected on the southerly side of Locke's neck. The Wallis Sands station, established in 1890, is located about the middle of the beach from which it takes its name, one and three quarters miles southerly from Odiorne's Point, to which point the patrol of the surfmen of this station extends. As it would be very diffi- cult, and in time of heavy snowstorms probably impossible, to transport life-saving apparatus from the station to the point, a small sub-station was erected there several years ago, in which are kept a fisherman's dory of large size, and a beach gun with the accompanying lines and other appliances, for use in case of wreck on or near the point. The boat would probably count for little in the broken water among the numerous rocks and ledges clustered about the point, but the other apparatus is as carefully looked after as that of the station, and is always handy for use should occasion demand it. The crews of the Jaffrey's Point and Wallis Sands stations are expected to use the gun and work together in case of disaster to a vessel at Odiorne's Point, and both the stations named are connected with the sub-station by telephone. To the southward the Wallis Sands patrol ex- tends to meet that northward from the Rye Beach station; as does that from the latter, southward, to meet that northward from the Hampton Beach station, the latter's patrol southward extending to Hampton river.
Thus throughout the entire night, and every hour of the night, for ten months in the year, hardy men are traveling back and forth over every mile of the coast between Hampton river and Odiorne's Point. The worse the storm, and the darker the night, the more imperative the necessity of a faithful perform- ance of the patrol duty ; and during howling winter gales when the comfortable citizen would consider it a serious hardship did he have to step out of his warm house to cross the street, the surfman, battling with the tempest, the snow and the stinging
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sleet from the boisterous sea, makes his laborious way over the uncertain footing in the inky darkness to the end of his patrol, keenly watching seaward all the time for any sign of a wreck, or, perchance, for a sight of some vessel rushing into unex- pected danger, whose crew he can warn of their peril by burn- ing his Coston light. To begrudge such men two months of easy duty during the pleasant season of summer seems dis- honorably mean. In thick weather the beach is patrolled in the daytime the same as at night; and at all times, in the calmest and clearest weather, a lookout is kept from the stations.
When the stations are remanned in August, after the absurd and injurious summer vacation, there is a period of special activity in drilling with the boats, gun and line apparatus, etc., to freshen and limber up the old members of the crew, and properly break in any new ones there may happen to be. These practice drills are of much interest to many of the sum- mer visitors, they being, of course, always in view of any who care to go to see them; and as it is always pleasant weather when the spectators are out in any number, possibly some of them carry to their homes the impression that the life saver's duty is pretty much like fun. If so, any surfman or shore resi- dent could tell them differently.
DESTRUCTIVE STORM.
The following is a petition from the selectmen of Rye to the provincial government in 1754, praying for relief from taxation on account of the town having suffered greatly from a severe storm :
Province of New Hampshire
To his Excellency Benning Wentworth Esqr Governour and Commander in chief, in and over his Majesty's Province of New Hampshire, and the Honble the House of Representatives for said Province now in general court siting :
Humbly Shews-James Marden and Joses Philbrick two of the selectmen of the Parish of Rye in the Province aforesaid (being the Major part thereof in behalf of said Parish ; That on or about the Nineteenth day of June last past there was a violent Thunder Storm and there fell a very considerable quantity of Rain & Hail which reachd through the said Parish and Damaged all the
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Inhabitants of the said Parish, (three or four familys only excepted) very much by Shattering their Houses and barns, breaking the Glass Windos, almost the one half thereof through the said Parish ; Shattered the Meeting- House and Parish House and broke the Glass thereof, that one hundred Pounds old tenor will not be sufficient to repair the said Meeting House and Parish House ; Destroyed almost all the apples in the Parish, with almost all the English and Indian Corn then and there standing and growing of one half of the said Inhabitants; By means whereof the said Inhabitants are reduced to Miserable Circumstances with regard to the fruits of the Earth this Year. And it will be as much as the said Inhabitants can do (and will be beyond the Capacity of many) to repair their buildings and provide sustinence for themselves and Cattle this year ; And as the said Parish is but a poor place and the said Inhabitants are at a Considerable charge among themselves over and above the Province Tax, which in itself is very heavy, and Considering the Circumstances of the said Parish will be insupportable as their dependence is on the fruits of the Earth (which are now destroyed) Wherefore the said James Marden & Joses Philbrick pray in behalf of the said Parish that your Excellency and Honours will take care of the said In- habitants into your wise consideration, and Relieve the said Inhabitants by abating the whole or so much of the said Province Tax as your Excellency and Honours in your great Wisdom shall think expedient, and your Petition- ers in behalf of said Inhabitants as in duty bound shall ever pray
July 24, 1754
James Marden Joses Philbrick
Province of New Hampr July 26, 1754
In Council read and ordered to be sent down to the Honble Ye Gen Assembly
Theo Atkinson Secy -*
Neither the provincial nor the town records give any further information in regard to this matter, or whether the prayer of the selectmen was granted, from which it is reasonable to infer that it was not.
STORMS.
In the History of New Hampshire, Dr. Belknap gives an account of a very sudden and remarkable change of weather which occurred in the spring of 1658, when the apple trees were in blossom. The change was so sudden and the cold so severe that of the crew of a fishing boat " one man died before they could reach the shore, another was so chilled that he died in a few days and a third lost his feet." In October, 1770,
* Provincial Records.
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after a very pleasant day a violent storm arose and many fishing vessels were lost. Among those who lost their lives were Joshua Foss, John Yeaton, Samuel Sanders and his sons George and Samuel, John Sanders and his son John and others of this town. They were fishing in what was called "Sheep Shears." On November 24, 1792, a severe snow-storm, after that very pleasant all winter.
February 3, 1802, snow came for sledding. In February it snowed for eight days and roads were blocked for many days,
In 1803 there was no snow of any amount all winter. On October 9, 1804, occurred the most dreadful storm that was ever known in Rye.
April 4, 1807, ox teams with sleds went from Hampton to Portsmouth.
July 12, 1809, a great storm, and it rained until the 21 st.
January 19, 1810, is known as the "cold Friday." It was three degrees colder than we have any account of.
On September 23, 1815, a heavy gale, blowing down much. timber and trees.
In 1816 there was a frost every month in the year, and a snow-storm and drifts the Tuesday before the first Wednesday in June. In August ice formed nearly an inch thick.
During 1818 no snow all winter of any amount until March. then the roads were broken out with cattle and cart and wheels.
In 1819 very little snow until March.
December 15, 1839, severe gale ; wind northeast with snow- the most severe since the famous gale of 1815.
1840. But little snow, the farmers using cart wheels all winter to get wood, etc.
July, 1844. Very dry, springs never known be so low.
April 16, 1851. A severe northeast gale and the highest tides ever known on this coast, causing great injury to the beaches and coast. Little Harbor bridge carried away.
Nov. 2, 1861. High tide and severe storm. Goss and Rand bridges were washed away.
1865. Very dry for a long time.
Sept. 8, 1869. Short, heavy gale blowing down many trees. 1.4
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The following table shows when the first snow came for a period of years :
1784, December 23. 1794, December 6.
1862, November 7.
1785, November 29.
1795, December 20.
1863. November 10.
1786, November 28.
1796, December 6.
1864, November 13.
1787, December 20. 1797, December 15. 1865, October 27.
1788, December 17. 1798, November I.
1866, November 22.
1789, December 29.
1799, December I.
1867, December 15.
1790, November 27.
1800, November 20.
1868, December.
1791, October 23.
1801, December 3.
1869, December 7.
1792, November 24.
1860, December 4.
1870, December 8.
1793, October 29. 1861, November 5.
PRIVATE GRAVEYARD AND CENTRAL CEMETERY.
Up to a comparatively recent date, graveyards were much more numerous in country towns than they are now. In the early days of the colonies there were private burial-grounds on many, if not most, of the larger farms; and even where there was a graveyard connected with the parish church, many of the parishioners, either because they were too far away from the churchyard to be able to reach it conveniently, or from senti- mental reasons, preferred to bury their dead on the home farm. Family graveyards, larger than the ordinary farm graveyard, and to which were brought for interment the bodies of de- ceased members of the family and its near connections from all over its town, and sometimes from other towns, were not infre- quent. As families decreased in numbers and importance, emigrated to other parts of the state or county, or died out altogether, and as farms passed out of the line of former owner- ship, the family and farm burial-grounds would cease to be the objects of any one's care, and the evidences of neglect soon be- came apparent in the disappearance of walls or fences, the overthrow of marking stones by the action of frost, and the growth of bushes and trees over the graves. With the estab- lishing of public cemeteries, as distinguished from church burial-grounds, many of these private graveyards had the re- mains of those who had been buried in them removed for reinterment; but hundreds of them still exist, most of them in a sadly neglected condition, many of them forgotten; and not
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a few of them have been obliterated from record, tradition, or memory, and are now beneath cultivated fields, pastures, or forests. At one time there were four graveyards at Rye Center,-one in the field adjoining the town hall; the Parsonage burying-ground, near the residence of Dr. Patterson ; one where the old meeting house stood, near where the electric railway tracks are now laid, so near, in fact, that the remains of several persons buried many long years ago were disturbed during the excavations for the railway ; and one on the northwest side of the residence of L. B. Parsons.
In 1890 there was circulated, and after being signed was duly presented, the following :
Petition to the Selectmen of the Town of Rye for a Public Cemetery.
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