USA > New Hampshire > Rockingham County > Windham > The history of Windham in New Hampshire (Rockingham country). 1719-1883. A Scotch settlement (commonly called Scotch-Irish), embracing nearly one third of the ancient settlement and historic township of Londonderry, N.H > Part 5
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The first sixteen settlers of Londonderry, with their wives and families, were James McKeen, John Barnet, Archibald Clendennin, John Mitchell, James Starrett, James Anderson, Randall Alexander, James Gregg, James Clark, James Nesmith, Allen Anderson, Robert Weir, John Morison, Samuel Allison, Thomas Steele, and John Stuart. Of these sixteen men, James MeKeen, James Anderson, Randall Alexander, James Clark, James Nesmith, and John Stuart, each was the ancestor of the Windham fami- lies which bear their respective surnames. John Morison was the father of Thomas and Ezekiel Morison, early residents of this town. Archibald Clendennin has descendants in the person of Horace-B. Johnson, of this place, the Clendennin family of Derry, and and the Steele family of Law- renee, lately of Windham. Samuel Allison has numerous descendants in town, bearing the names of Dow, Morrison, and Dinsmoor, and Robert Weir has descendants bearing the Park name. Allen Anderson left no family, and James Gregg was ancestor of the Derry Greggs. Thomas Steele has numerous descendants in Peterborough and Western New York. The homes in Ireland of the McKeens, Dinsmoors, MeGregors, and Nes- miths, and many other families which settled in Windham and London- derry, N. II., were in the valley of the river Bann, in or near the parishes or towns of Kilrea, Coleraine, Ballywatick, Ballymoney, and Ballynoolen.
In Sept. 1719, five months after the first settlement, there were seventy families, and in October there were one hundred and five families. So rapidly had the settlement increased, that they soon wished for town priv- ileges, and petitioned the General Court of New Hampshire for an act of . incorporation, Sept. 1719. It was not till June 21, 1722, that " Nutfield" was incorporated as Londonderry. They purchased their land October 20, 1719, of John Wheelwright (see pp. 25 and 26). They were greatly troubled to secure titles to their lands, but finally succeeded. There is no account of any Indian outrage to an inhabitant of Windham or London- derry, save that of the boy who was killed on Golden Brook about 1721.
Probably no people who ever landed in America have been so much misunderstood and misrepresented as the Seoteh settlers of Windham, Londonderry, and other places settled in different parts of the country, by this same hardy, unconquerable race. The ignorance and stupidity of other classes in relation to them and their history, has been unbounded. They were called "Irish," when not a drop of Irish blood flowed in their veins. They were called "Roman Catholics." when they had hated that seet almost to ferocity ; when they had rolled back the papal forces, and had endured the horrors of starvation, shed their blood in mountain fast- nesses and on many battle-fields, to uphold the Protestant faith, and had " ventured their all for the British crown against the Irish papists."
This closes the notice of the ancestors of the first settlers of Windham and Londonderry, and of the religions and necompanying causes which drove them to America, with the brief notice of the emigrants themselves.
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1
HISTORY OF WINDHAM IN NEW HAMPSHIRE.
CHAPTER I.
IN THE BEGINNING. - COPY OF JOHN WHEELWRIGHT'S DEED TO THE PROPRIETORS. - THE INDIANS. - ITS SITUATION. ; WILD ANIMALS. - BIRDS. - SNAKES. - ARBOREAL. PRODUCTS. - FLORA OF WINDHAM. -LOCALITIES. - SURFACE. - INDICATIONS OF THE GLACIAL PERIOD. -SCENERY.
THE first mention of that portion of the universe which is now Windham is found in the last two words of the first verse of the first chapter of Genesis-" the earth." The first three words of the same verse and chapter tell us when it was created. In the words of Holy Writ, it was " in the beginning"; and from that period, during the lights and shadows of many centuries, and down to the year A. D. 1719, an almost unbroken silence and impenetrable obscurity covers its history. Speculation may strive to illumine this darkness, but its lights are uncertain and liable to deceive. Its real history is unknown, and can only be deduced by inference.
The territory now comprising Windham was, from 1719 to Feb. 12, 1742, a portion of Londonderry, and was purchased by the Proprietors of that town of John Wheelwright, whose grand- father had, in 1629,* purchased of the Indians.
COPY OF JOIIN WHEELWRIGHT'S DEED TO THE PROPRIETORS.
These presents witnesseth, that I, John Wheelwright, of Wells, in the County of Yorke, in the Province of Massachusetts Bay,
* This refers to the famous Wheelwright deed, which was considered authentic till pronounced a forgery, in June, 1820, by Hon. James Savage, of Boston, Mass., and the same opinion was entertained by John Farmer, Esq., of Concord, N. H. Hon. Chandler E. Potter, who devoted much time and research to this matter, pronounced the deed genuine. Whether genuine or spurious, it is a part of our history, and the deed was consid- ered valid for about two hundred years. It is found upon the records in the office of the register of deeds at Exeter, N. H. The grandson of John Wheelwright considered it valid. and under its authority deeded London- derry to the Proprietors, as mentioned.
3
26
HISTORY OF WINDHAM IN NEW HAMPSHIRE.
do for meervself, Heirs, Executors, Administrators, and Assigns, by virtue of Deed or Grant made to my Grandfather, a minister of the Gospel, and others named in said Grant, by Sundry Indian Sagamores, with ye consent of ve whole tribe of Indians between the Rivers Meremake and Pescutequa, to them and their Heirs for ever full power for the laying out, bounding and Granting these lands into suitable tracts for townships, unto such numbers of People as may from time to time offer to settle and Improve the same, which deed beareth date, May the seventeenth, one thou- sand and six hundred twenty and nine. Executed, Acknowledged, and approved by the authority in the Day, as may at large more fully appe' &! Pursuant thereunto I Do, by these presents, Give and Grant'all my Right Title and Interest therein contained for the ends, uses aforesaid, unto Mr. James McGregor, Samuel Graves, David Cargill, James McKeen, James Gregg, and one hundred more, mentioned in a list, to them and their Heirs for ever, a certain tract of Land, bounded as followeth, not exceed- ing the quantity of ten miles square : beginning at a pine tree marked, which is the southwest corner of Chesheir, and running to the northwest corner of said Cheshire, and from the north- west corner, running upon a due west line unto the River Meri- mack, and down the River Merimack, untill it meets with the line of Dunstable, and there turning eastward upon Dunstable line, untill it meet with the line of Dracut, and continuing east- ward npon Draent Line, untill it meet with the line of Haverill, and extending northward upon Haverill Line, untill it meet with the line of Cheshire, and then turning westward upon the said Line of Cheshire, unto the pine tree first mentioned, where it began. In witness whereof, I have hereunto set my hand and seal, this twentyeth Day of October, one thousand seven hundred and nineteen.
Signed, Sealed, and Delivered
in the Presence of '
DANIEL DUPEE, JOHN HIRST.
JOHN WHEELWYMGUT, [L. S.]
Suffolk, ss.
BosTox, October ye 20th, 1719.
John Wheelwright, Esq., personaly appearing, acknowledged the above Instrument to be his volhintary act and Deed.
Cor. WILLIAM WELLSTUD, Just. Peace.
Provence of Entered and recorded in the 11th Book of the
Newhampshire said Records, Page 138-139, this 24th of October, 1719.
Pr SAML. PENHALLOW, Recorder.
THE INDIANS.
The Indians who were the early inhabitants of this town were of the Pawtucket nation, and may have derived their name from
27
ITS SITUATION.
the Pawtucket Falls at Lowell, Mass,, about which the larger part of their tribe resided in their early history. T domain included all of New Hampshire.
Efforts were made to christianizo the Indians at Pawtucket previous to 1653, and it is not improbable that the same Indians whose wigwams were on the banks of our ponds, and whose canoes glided over our waters, taking fish therefrom, may have heard the Gospel at Pawtucket (now Lowell), twelve miles away, from the lips of the saintly Eliot, " the Apostle to the Indians." He preached there in 1653, previously, and for many subsequent years. The Indians congregated at the Falls, as it was a good place for fishing. Our Indians, confined to no permma nt places of abode, of course visited these Falls, as the rushing of its waters could be distinctly heard in Windham before they were, in 1818-20, turned from their rocky bed for the Lowell factories. The last great chief of this tribe was Passaconnaway. In 1660, at a great feast and dance, he warned his people, as a dying man, not to quarrel with their English neighbors, as it would be the means of their own destruction. To him, "coming events cast their shadows before." Subsequently the headquarters of this tribe were at Concord; they left this section as a residence about 1685, but in their wanderings for fifty years after, spent much time at the Falls. After the settlement by the London- derry Colony, there is but one recorded instance of Indian cruelty to a citizen of Londonderry, -that of killing the boy on the banks of Golden Brook, in what is now Windham.
In early days the Indians used to encamp on the shores of Cobbett's and Policy Ponds, and many arrowheads have been found as they were turned up by the plow near the shore. The stones used for skinning animals have also been found. After the settlement, wandering parties of Indians were occasionally in Windham, but finally they retired to Canada, and this settlement knew but little of them, and had but little intercourse with them. Hardly a meme ito now exists to show us that such a race ever existed here.
It canses a thought of sadness when we think of the passing away of a race. The wail of the red-man, as he looked for the last time upon the graves of his kindred, and set his face towards the sunset, which the poet has woven into familiar lines, tonches a responsive chord in all sympathetic breasts.
" I will go to my tent and lie down in despair, I will paint me with black and sever my hair;
I will sit on the shore when the hurricane blows,
And reveal to the God of the tempest iny woes.
I will weep for a season, on bitterness fed, For my kindred are gone to the mounds of the dead."
ITS SITUATION.
The location of Windham is like that of a hub in a wheel, the Merrimack River being two thirds of the circumference. It is
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HISTORY OF WINDHAM IN NEW HAMPSHIRE.
bounded on the north by Londonderry and Derry, on the east by Salem, on the south by Salem and Pelham, and on the west by Londonderry and Hudson. Manchester lies fifteen miles to the northwest, Nashua ten miles to the west, Haverhill twelve miles to the east, Lawrence ten miles to the southeast, Lowell fourteen miles south. It lies thirty-five miles northwest from Boston, thirty-three miles southwest from Concord, and thirty south- west of Exeter. It is situated in latitude about 42° 48' North, and in longitude 5° 50' East from Washington. Arca 15,744 acres, and not far from one seventh of its surface is covered with water.
Gaentake,* or Beaver River or Brook, is the principal stream. It is the outlet of Tsienneto* (Shoneeto), or Beaver Pond, in Derry, and flows through Windham in nearly a sontherly direc- tion, emptying into the Merrimack River at Lowell. Upon this river is considerable good meadow land.
There are six ponds, or lukes more properly, wholly or par- tially in the town. Policy (once called Haverhill Pond), the largest, is on the eastern side of the town, and nearly one half lies in Salem. It is two miles long, and covers 1,017 acres, and is a beautiful sheet of water. The words of the poet Whittier, when he christened Kenoza Lake, fitly apply to the beautiful Policy.
" O'er no sweeter lake Shall morning break, or noon-cloud sail ; No lighter wave than thine shall take The sunset's golden veil."
Cobbett's Pond has been found by measurement to be just two miles in length. "The Narrows" are nearly equidistant from either end, but are nearer the northeast end of the pond. The pond attains its greatest width south of "the Narrows." This is the second in size, and covers 1,000 acres. Its situation is beautiful. It lies in a valley, and the land on either side rises into swelling hills, whose sides in places are thickly covered with wood, and in other parts the fields or pastures of the well-culti- vated farms in "the Range " extend to the water's edge. Rev. Thomas Cobbett, of Ipswich, Mass., in 1662 had a farm bounding upon it. It takes its name from him. The pond was a favorite resort of the Indians for fishing, and many arrowheads have been found in its vicinity.
Hititity Pond lies in the easterly part of the town, and is partly in Salem.
Spruce Pond lies in School District No. 7. It is a small pond, lying about one fourth of a mile west of the turnpike.
Mitchell's Pond is in the northerly part of the town. It is nearly surrounded with woods, and is in a secluded place.
* The Indian nane.
29
WILD ANIMALS.
Parties often go there for pickerel. The pond has a muddy bottom. It derives its name from the Londonderry family of Mitchell, who owned land upon its borders.
Golden or Golding's Pond lies in the southerly part of the town. It is a small pond, and connected with it is
Simpson's Pond, which furnishes the water-power for Simp- son's mills.
Golden or Golding's Brook empties in Golden Pond, and comprises the stream which is the outlet of Cobbett's Pond.
Flatrock Brook lies in the north part of the town, and partly in Derry.
Fish abound in all the ponds, and are much sought for. In 1878, Policy Pond was stocked with black bass by the State fish commissioners.
The fish found in these ponds are the shiner, the pickerel, the perch, the chub, the horned pout, and eel.
WILD ANIMALS.
Bears were very common in the first settlements, and were the most troublesome animals of the forest. In the months of August and September they would make great havoc in the fields of corn. Many farmers were obliged to watch their corn-fields by night.
Robert Park, on the east side of the town, was watching in the field one night, and fell into a doze; he was startled by some- thing about his head, and looking up he saw a large skunk looking him in the face. While he went for his breakfast, an old bear took advantage of his absence, and went into the corn-field and took hix breakfast.
Emigrant John Cochran set a heavily-loaded gun in the field, with a cord attached to the trigger, the cord crossing a gap in the wall securely fastened. A bear, in attempting to enter the field at this place, discharged the gun and killed himself. When shot, he leaped a distance of twelve feet, when he died. The most westerly field of William D. Cochran's farm is made historie by this occurrence.
About 1802, three bears, an old one and two cubs, were killed near the John A. M. Johnson farm.
About 1804, a large bear was discovered and chased into the woods at the north side of Cobbett's Pond. Darkness coming on, the chase was abandoned. The news that a bear was near spread very rapidly, and the next morning, at break of day, John Coch- ran, Abel and Richard Dow, started to renew the chase. The bear was found near where he was left the night previous. He started off briskly on his last journey, in a northwesterly direc- tion, followed closely by his pursuers, who increased rapidly in numbers. They followed him till he arrived at Beaver Brook, which was partly open, and the bear plunged in and swam across. His pursuers were not so fortunate as to ford the river, but went
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HISTORY OF WINDHAM IN NEW HAMPSHIRE.
around by the nearest bridge, and having struck the trail of the bear once more, they followed it till the tracks came to an end; looking up, they discovered the bear among the branches of a large pine tree in an open pasture. The pursuers were jubi- lant. Deacon Fisher, of Londonderry, shot and killed the bear, which weighed nearly four hundred pounds. The bear was dressed, and divided among the large number of hunters, and each received some three pounds. The bear's skin, which was a beautiful one, was sold to Samuel Armor, and from it a very fine muff and tippet were made, which were used by Mrs. Armor for nearly forty years.
In an old account book of 1813 or '14, is this record : " Robert Dickey saw a bear."
Ensign John Morison, when a boy, while searching for his- cows one night, heard a loud noise in the woods immediately back of where the school-house in District No. 1 now stands. He investigated, and saw a large black bear. The boy swung his hat over his head, and gave a loud shout, when the bear left with mighty leaps, causing the brambles and brush to crash and break with a loud noise.
Wolves .- They were plenty, and were very annoying. In 1721, when the first settlements were made near the school-house in District No. 5, wolves were not scarce. Mrs. Waugh, who lived near the R. P. Morrison farm, when alone one night with her children, was troubled by the wolves, which surrounded her log house, and stuck their noses in between the logs. She drove them off by pouring scalding hot water upon their snouts, which sent them back to their haunts in the wilderness, howling with rage.
The " Rustic Bard," Robert Dinsmoor, when he first built his barn where John H. Dinsmore lives, used to close up the barn very tightly at night, locking in his stock securely. After a light snow, when he would return in the morning, the tracks of wolves would be plenty about the barn. The country then was mostly covered with large forests.
About 1775, Margaret Dinsmoor, who lived near George W. Hanscom's, learned to weave of one William Dickey, whose house stood in what is now a sheep pasture of L. A. Morrison ; when returning one evening, a wolf sprang upon her, and she fainted. The wolf tore her shawl, but was frightened away by accompanying friends, without doing her other injury.
Deer. - They abounded in the country and roamed the forests. At certain seasons they were protected by law. During the months of protection, Robert Park, who lived where JJohn A. Park lives, got one so tame that it would eat from his hands. After the season of exemption expired, he went to feed his pet deer one day, and rewarded its confidence by shooting it. It hurt his feelings to do so, but he offered the old excuse, if "he didn't shoot it, some one else would."
31
BIRDS.
Wild-cat, Lys, or Catamount, were once here, but have disappeared with other wild animals as civilization advanced. Periodically the community is startled by the report of the appearance of a lynx or wild-cat, but only at intervals of several years. A catamount was once killed upon a rock in the east side of the town, and the rock is known as " Catamount Rock."
Beavers were very numerous. Beaver Brook, or River, derives its name from the fact that beavers lived upon the stream. They were found in town exereising their wonderful skill in constructing dams to brooks, so to control the running waters as to suit their convenience, necessity, or pleasure, -one of. which is yet visible. This dam is where the brook empties into the northerly end of Cobbett's Pond. Across this brook they had for ages kept their dam, flowing the water back upon the meadow south of John H. Dinsmore's house. Across this dam people pass when walking across lots in going from Windham Range to the meeting-house. In the wet season they could convert the whole meadow into a pond or lake. There was a hollow at the easterly corner of the meadow, which the first settlers said was a canal the beavers had dug inland, and when it was full of water they would cut down trees into proper lengths, and also branches, and float them down to repair and keep in order their dam. A few years since some of these logs eut by beavers were found in this meadow several feet below the surface. This was undoubtedly the place of their queer habitations, so built as to enter from beneath the surface of the water. Their fur was of great value, and was used as cur- reney between the whites and Indians.
Hedgehogs were once residents. The last one was killed near W. D. Cochran's about A. D. 1800.
Otters were here at one time, but now are nearly or quite extinct.
The woodchuck, raccoon, and rubbit are still plenty, to the sor- row of many farmers. Musk-rat and mink are still here, and are caught year by year. Foxes are plenty, and tales of their cunning are often told. They are much hunted. Squirrels, striped, red, and gray, are numerous. Flying squirrels are occasionally seen.
BIRDS.
The birds found here are those usually found in New England. A few will be mentioned: Wild geese, and several varieties of ducks, frequent our lakes and ponds in their semi-annual transits, spring and fall. Loons always have nested on the bor- ders of Policy Pond, and perhaps other places. They are often seen flying from one pond to another, or swimming upon their surface. On dark, stormy nights in summer their shrill and mel- ancholy notes are often heard, and seem in perfect harmony with the sombre aspects of nature.
The quail is here, but not abundant. In some parts of the
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HISTORY OF WINDHAM IN NEW HAMPSHIRE.
town the whip-poor-will is plenty, and disturbs the stillness of the night by its unpleasant and monotonous song.
Pigeons are not so plenty as formerly. The yellow-hammer, or golden-winged woodpecker, is plenty. The red-headed wood- pecker is also here.
The robin, golden robin, or oriole, are plenty. The scarlet tanager is occasionally seen. Indigo bird, bobolink, blackbird, snow-bird, yellow-bird, kingbird, butcher-bird, blue-jay, and crow all appear here, besides numerous birds of other varieties, such as night-hawk, pigeon, and hen-hawk, and several varieties of owls, woodcock, turtle-dove, and cat-bird, or " American mocking-bird of the north," as it is called. The bat-that link between beast and bird-is found here. But the bird most prized and sought after by sportsmen is the partridge, the loud, whirring noise of whose beating wings as he flies from the approach of visitors, is generally the first notice of his proximity. Its flesh is a delicacy.
SNAKES.
The black snake, small water-snake, small brown adder, house adder, large water-snake, striped and green snake, are occasion- ally seen.
ARBOREAL PRODUCTS.
The town was once heavily wooded. The hills and the valleys were covered with forests of oak and hard wood. But these have disappeared, and the arboreal products of the town at pres- ent are the white, yellow, and Norway pine; different kinds of maple, but the sugar-maple is scarce; white, black, yellow, and gray birches ; white, red, gray, and black oak prevail, but are of young growth; walnut, butternut, hemlock, chestnut, spruce, white and black ash, white poplar, willow, and the locust are found; also lever wood, hornbeam, basswood, slippery elm, elm. The latter are considerably used for shade trees. Red and poison sumac, or dogwood, and alder exist in lowlands.
Windham is a natural country for wood. It is a noticeable fact that nature favors rotation of crops; as when a forest of hard wood is removed, the next growth is generally pine. Within twenty years an immense amount of wood and lumber has been cut and carried out of town.
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