Historical collections of the state of New Jersey : containing a general collection of the most interesting facts, traditions, biographical sketches, anecdotes, etc. relating to its history and antiquities, with geographical desciptions of every township in the state., Part 61

Author: Barber, John Warner, 1798-1885. cn; Howe, Henry, 1816-1893. cn
Publication date: 1857
Publisher: Newark, N.J. : Pub. for B. Olds by J.H. Bradley ; New Haven : J.W. Barber
Number of Pages: 1076


USA > New Jersey > Historical collections of the state of New Jersey : containing a general collection of the most interesting facts, traditions, biographical sketches, anecdotes, etc. relating to its history and antiquities, with geographical desciptions of every township in the state. > Part 61


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A few days after this incident I took up my abode at Mr. John Van Horne's, by invi- tation, within a short distance of the head quarters of the commander-in-chief. He fre- quently called, when returning from his ride, and passed an hour with Mrs. Van Horne and the ladies of the family, or with the farmer, if at home. I was of course introduced to him. I had brought with me materials for crayon painting, and commenced the por- traits of Mr. and Mrs. Van Horne; these were admired far beyond their merits, and shown to all visitors. I had with me a flute and some music books. One morning as I copied notes and tried them, the general and his suite passed through the hall, and I heard him say, " The love of music and painting are frequently found united in the same person." The remark is common-place, but it was delightful to me at the time.


The assertion that this great man never laughed, must have arisen from his habitual, perhaps his natural reservedness. He had from early youth been conversant with public men and employed in public affairs-in affairs of life and death. He was not an austere man either in appearance or manners, but was unaffectedly dignified and habitually polite. But I remember, during my opportunity of observing his deportment, two instances of unrestrained laughter. The first and most moderate was at a bon mot, or anecdote from Judge Peters, then a member of congress, and dining with the general ; the second was on witnessing a scene in front of Mr. Van Horne's house, which was, as I recollect it, suffi ciently laugh-provoking. Mr. John Van Horne was a man of uncommon size and strength and bulky withal. His hospitable board required, that day, as it often did, a roasting pig in addition to the many other substantial dishes which a succession of guests, civil and military, put in requisition. A black boy had been ordered to catch the young porker, and was in full but unavailing chase, when the master and myself arrived from a walk. " Pooh ! you awkward cur," said the good-natured yeoman, as he directed Cato or Plato (for all the slaves were heathen philosophers in those days) to exert his limbs-but all in vain-the pig did not choose to be cooked. "Stand away," said Van Horne, and throw- ing off his coat and hat, he undertook the chase, determined to run down the pig. His guests and his negroes stood laughing at his exertions and the pig's manifold escapes. Shouts and laughter at length proclaimed the success of the chasseur, and while he held the pig up in triumph, the big drops coursing each other from forehead to chin, over his mahogany face, glowing with the effect of exercise, amidst the squealing of the victim, the stentorian voice of Van Horne was heard, " I'll show you how to run down a pig!" and, as he spoke, he looked up in the face of Washington, who, with his suite, had trotted their horses into the court-yard unheard amidst the din of the chase and the shouts of triumphant success. The ludicrous expression of surprise at being so caught, with his


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attempts to speak to his heroic visitor, while the pig redoubled his efforts to escape by kicking and squeaking, produced as hearty a burst of laughter from the dignified Wash- ington, as any that shook the sides of the most vulgar spectator of the scene.


WARREN.


Warren was formed from Bedminster and Bernard in 1806. It is centrally distant NE. from Somerville 7 miles ; and is about 8 miles long by 4 wide. It is bounded NW. by Morris, Morris co., and Bernard ; SE. by Piscataway, Middlesex co., and Westfield, Essex co. ; E. by New Providence and Westfield, Essex co., and W. by Bridgewater and Bernard. Pop. 1,601. This township is mountainous. A range of mountains runs through it in an east- erly direction, enclosing a long fertile valley known as Washing- ton's Valley. In the winter of 1778-9, a part of Washington's army, then in a suffering condition, encamped there. The head- quarters were then at Middlebrook. There are now to be seen remains of the log huts, built by the soldiers on the lands of Isaac Bolmar and John Martin. On a mountain in the SE. part of the township, near the line of Westfield, is a noted rock, known as Washington's Rock, described on page 201 of this volume.


SUSSEX COUNTY.


SUSSEX is the NW. county of the state. It was formed from Mor- ris county in 1753. In 1824, its limits were reduced by the erection of Warren county from its southern portion. It is 27 miles long, and 21 broad. It is bounded northerly by Orange co., New York ; . easterly by Passaic and Morris cos. ; southerly by Warren co., and westerly by Delaware river. The central portion of the county is generally level or undulating. The Blue mountains run through the western part, and the Wawayanda and Hamburg mountains are in the NE. part of the county. The SE. portion is also moun- tainous. The county is watered by the Paulinskill, Pequest, Flat- kill, Wallkill, and other smaller streams. There are in the county many small ponds, some of which are on the summits of the moun- tains. Several of them are called the White Ponds, from the fact of their shores and bottoms being covered with small white shells. Sussex county is one of the most interesting mineral tracts in the world. Iron ore and zinc are found in the mountains of the east, and marble and many rare minerals exist in the county. A large amount of capital is invested in the iron manufacture. This also is one of the best agricultural districts in the state. The principal products are wheat, corn, and particularly butter, of which large quantities are sent to the New York market. The county is divi-


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ded into the following eleven townships. Several of them were formed into precincts as early as 1754.


Byram, Frankford, Green, Hardiston,


Montague, Newton,


Stillwater,


Sandiston.


Vernon, Walpack, Wantage,


The population of the townships now composing Sussex county in 1810, was 12,644; in 1820, 16,617; in 1830, 20,346; in 1840, 21,769.


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BYRAM.


This township is 11 miles long, breadth across its southern end, 7 miles ; bounded on the E. by Hardistown and Jefferson, Morris co .; S. by Roxbury, Morris co., and westerly by Newton and Green. The surface is mountainous, and the township is rich in iron, and abounds in rare minerals. There are 4 stores, 4 forges, 2 grist and 5 saw m .; cap. in manufac. $34,360 ; 8 schools, 224 scholars. Pop. 1,153.


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Stanhope, 11 miles S. of Newton, on the county line, and on the Morris canal, is a village containing 50 or 60 dwellings, where the manufacture of iron has been extensively carried on. Waterloo, formerly called Andover Forge, is on the line of the Morris canal, and contains a forge, a store, a grist and saw mill, and about 15 dwellings.


FRANKFORD.


Frankford has an average length of 9, with a width of 5 miles. It is bounded N. by Wantage, E. by Hardiston, S. by Newton, and W. by Sandiston. The northwestern part of the township is gen- erally uneven and stony, but is very productive. The southeastern part is more level, abounding in limestone. The soil throughout the township is very fertile, and well adapted to the growth of corn, wheat, rye, buckwheat, oats, potatoes, &c. The attention of the farmers for the last several years has been particularly directed to the making of butter, which is the leading item of the produce sent to market. They send also to market (New York city) large quantities of pork and flour. About two miles SE. of the village of Branchville, on a farm recently owned by William A. Gustin, Esq., a quarry of marble was discovered a few years since. It has Deen pronounced by competent judges a good article. It is of the green serpentine order, and some of the specimens are very beauti ful. The quarry is supposed to be very extensive, but has not yet been opened to any considerable extent.


Culver's Gap is a pass through the Blue mountains, over which runs the stage-road from Newton to Milford, on the Pennsylvania side of the Delaware. There are in the township 5 stores, 1 forge,


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. I furnace, 6 grist, 8 saw m .; cap. in manufac. $45,405; 13 schools. 307 scholars. Pop. 2,410.


Central View in Branchville.


Branchville is on the road from Newton to Milford, 7 miles NW. o1 the former, and also on a branch of the Paulinskill, which empties into the main stream about one and a half miles south of the village. It is formed by the outlets of Culver's and Long ponds, two beautiful sheets of water in the western part of the township, and affords fine facilities for manufacturing, there being a fall of about 300 feet in two miles. Branchville was originally settled in 1690, by Wil- liam Beemer, but nearly all the buildings have been erected since 1830. It contains 4 stores, an academy, a free church, 3 grist and 2 saw m., 2 taverns, 1 cloth-dyeing and dressing establishment. 1 carriage manufactory, 1 harness and 2 cabinet makers, 2 black- smiths. 2 weavers, 1 cooper, 32 dwellings, and about 200 inhabit- ants. Augusta, two miles E. of Branchville, contains a Presbyte- rian church, and 15 or 20 dwellings. Coursenville, 4 miles N. of Augusta, contains a store, a grist-mill, and a few dwellings.


For the following communication relating to the township, the compilers are indebted to a gentleman now residing in Branchville.


There are several places in this township which show evident traces of having been once inhabited by Indians, though they had entirely evacuated it prior to the establishment of any permanent settlement by the whites. The first white settlers came principally from Connecticut, and located themselves in the southeastern part of the township, about the year 1700. Among the earliest settlers were Isaac Colt, Robert Price, and John Gustin. There were also several German families who settled here at about the same time. Among them was Isaac and John Dewitt, and William Beemer.


Robert Price, one of the first settlers above named, when a small boy, was taken a prisoner by the Indians at one of the massacres in the eastern states. He and his mother were both marched off


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. together, and she being somewhat conversant with the language of the savages, soon learned from their conversation and gestures that she was herself to be dispatched, and immediately communicated the intelligence to her son. She told him that he must not cry when they killed her, or they would kill him too. She marched only a few rods further before she was killed, and the boy was eventually adopted by one of the squaws as her child, she having lost her own a few days previous. He lived with the Indians until he was over 21 years old, and was then rescued by his friends. It was a long time before he became thoroughly reconciled to civil- ized society, and he sometimes expressed a desire to return to the Indians, but the feeling gradually wore away. Several years after his release, he removed to this township.


Some years since there resided in the northern part of this township a certain Mr. C., more familiarly known among his acquaintances as " Uncle Philip." He was of Ger- man descent, and his father was among the earliest settlers of the township. Uncle Philip, take him all in all, was no doubt the most singular specimen of human nature the township ever produced. He was an implicit believer in witchcraft, ghosts, hobgoblins, or any other creature of superstition of which he ever heard. No story, however marvel- lous or improbable, could stagger his credulity, except that of the world's turning round upon its own axis. This he hooted at as preposterous and impossible, a mere specula- tion of bookisli men ; and nothing did Uncle Philip hold in more sovereign contempt than all " book larning." But it is not strange that Uncle Philip discarded the Newtonian system-he had a system of his own. He believed there were " more things in lieaven and earth" than such philosophers ever " dreamed of," and that the art of magic was indispensable to the development of truths pertaining to the material or immaterial world.


His perpetual brooding over dark mysterious subjects aided in giving a countenance, naturally far from prepossessing, a still more wild and unnatural expression. An artist, desiring to personify superstition, could not have chosen a better model. His long lank form, bent and misshapen-his swarthy, lantern-jawed, unshaven visage-dark shaggy brows-a deep-set, wild and wandering eye, which seemed ever and anon looking out for spectres-and then his costume, constructed with utter disregard to fashion, set off with a cap of colossal proportions, rudely fashioned from the skin of some hairy uncouth animal, ornainented with its long bushy tail dangling over his shoulders-the whole form- ing as grotesque and singular an outline as the wildest imagination could conceive. And his manners were quite as eccentric as his external appearance.


He seemed to regard almost every person with distrust, suspecting them of being jeagued with witches and evil spirits against himself. Whenever he started upon a hunting excursion, he studiously avoided all contact with any person, fearing, as he said, that they would put a spell upon his gun ; and if, despite all his efforts to avoid it, he should meet any person whom he deemed at all suspicious, he would give up his hunt in despair. Near the close of his life, however, he discovered a composition which he re- garded as an infallible remedy for those evils. A very small quantity of this composi- tion stored away in his pocket, afforded, as he believed, perfect immunity from all the :spells and machinations of demons and witches combined.


Among his superstitious acquaintances Uncle Philip was as completely sovereign, as was the knight of the burning girdle among the sorcerers and magicians of Egypt. If there was a spell or a charm to be broken, a witch to be chastised, a demon to be exor- cised, blood to be stopped, a burn to be cured, or any other extraordinary thing requiring the aid of magic, Uncle Philip was the man. No case was sufficiently desperate or mys- terious to resist the restoring influence of his potent wand, provided, always, that a suf- ficient quantum of faith was exercised by the patient. All the troubles and misfortunes he suffered were charged upon the witches.


Many were the fantastic tricks played upon Uncle Philip by the mischievous youngsters of the neighborhood upon the credit of the witches. They very unjustly subjected the old man to frequent annoyances. Often would they " make night hideous" by surrounding his dwelling and serenading him with horns, kettles, drums, bells, &c., merely that they .might hear Uncle Philip the next day tell how the witches had used him. He gave it


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out that he could find stolen goods by dreaming out the spot where they were deposited ; and often did he, on attempting to begin his work in the morning, find his axe, his flail, or his ox-yoke, or one of the wheels of his wagon among the missing, and after he had dreamed over his loss for several days, and searched every nook and corner, his property would come back to him. He once started from home upon a journey about sundown, intend- ing to drive all night, and so he did ; but having fallen asleep during the night, he awoke at day-break the next morning before his own door. Loudly did the old man berate the evil spirits for this manœuvre, though many suspected that another kind of spirits had done the mischief.


Uncle Philip was a most inveterate star-gazer. By studying them minutely, he pro- fessed to be enabled to foretell coming events, the state of the weather, &c. In order to facilitate his heavenly studies, he at one time erected a sort of scaffold, supported by four posts sunk a few inches in the ground. On the top of this scaffold, he placed a wooden trough of sufficient dimensions to contain his body. Here, stretched out upon his back, he pursued his researches for several evenings uninterrupted, and was so highly elated with the invention, that he could not be persuaded to relinquish it for his bed until very late at night. All went on swimmingly with Uncle Philip, until on a certain eve- ning, after his family had retired for rest, they were suddenly aroused by a terrible crash, succeeded by several groans, and on running out, found Uncle Philip's scaffold flat upon the ground, and himself making a pretty terrible ado among the ruins. He proved to be pretty severely, though not dangerously, injured. The story of his disaster was soon fold. A certain mischievous old sow that Uncle Philip had for some time suspected of being bewitched, was rubbing herself against one of the posts that supported the scaf- fold, which being but slightly fixed in the ground, gave way, and of course brought Uncle Philip and his trough both suddenly upon terra firma. So suddenly did the account of Uncle Philip's misfortune circulate for miles around him, and so general and universal was the laugh enjoyed at his expense, that it completely cured him of his star-gazing propensity, and he shunned the society of his neighbors for several months after the event ; and until his death nothing could sooner cause a frown upon his countenance, than any allusion to the stars.


GREEN.


Green was formed in 1824 from Hardwick and Independence, Warren co. It is 6 miles long, with a width of from 2 to 4 miles, being the smallest township in the county. It is bounded NE. by Newton, SE. by Byram, SW. by Hardwick and Independence, Warren co., and NW. by Stillwater. It has 2 grist-m., I saw-m. ; cap. in manufac. $5,200 ; 5 schools, 110 scholars. Pop. 777. The surface on the SE. is mountainous ; elsewhere, hilly or undulating. The Pequest river runs through it, and there are several small ponds scattered on its surface, among which are Grass, Hunt's, and Reading ponds. Greenville, 7 miles south of Newton, is a small village, containing about 20 dwellings.


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HARDISTON.


This township is nearly triangular in form : it measures across its N. side 8} miles, its SE. 12}, and its W. 14 miles. It is bounded northerly by Wantage and Vernon, SE. by West Milford, Passaic co., and Jefferson, Morris co., and W. by Byram, Newton, and Frankford. The township contains 10 stores, 3 furnaces, 6 forges, 8 grist-m., 13 saw-m .; cap. in manufac. $68,075 ; 15 schools, 403 scholars. Pop. 2,831. The Wallkill flows N. through the central part of the township. A great portion of it is mountainous


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SUSSEX COUNTY.


The Hamburg or Wallkill mountains cover its eastern portion, and Pimple hill, a high eminence, is in the western part. The township is considered one of the most interesting mineral tracts in the Union. Inexhaustible quantities of iron ore and zinc exist in the mountains on the east. There was in 1840 invested in the iron business in this township a capital of $116.955.


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View of Sparta.


The flourishing village of Sparta is on the Wallkill, near the western line of Hardiston, 7 miles E. of Newton. The above view was taken near the female seminary. The large building to the left near the spectator is the Methodist church ; the spire of the Presbyterian church appears in the distance. This is one of the most pleasant villages in this part of the state. The dwellings are neat, many of them ornamented with shade trees, and the sur- rounding scenery is of a bold and picturesque character. It con- tains 5 stores, an academy and a female seminary, 2 churches, 2 taverns, 2 grist-m., 6 forges for making bar iron, an anchor-factory, a fulling and clothing factory, a variety of mechanics, and about 400 inhabitants.


The following notice of this village, written in Aug. 1843, is ,from the Newark Daily Advertiser :-


This village of classic name has indigenous merits. We have made it the place of our summer rustication, and shall ever remember it with pleasure. It is with places as with heroes, many a one goes uncelebrated merely for want of a poet ; and the presence of a Lycurgus is only wanted to render this modern Sparta more famous, as it is be- yond question more picturesquely located, than its ancient namesake at the foot of Mount Taygetus. The " Daily" must serve the place of both lawgiver and poet, and spread its fame abroad.


Nature here wears some of her most bewitching charms, and enterprise is fast adding to the attractions of art. Within a brief period the village has doubled in size. The Wallkill, which rises near, (and which empties into the Hudson at Kingston,) with two or three other never-failing streams, turn the wheels of 4 forges, 1 anchor-factory, 1 ful- ling-m., 3 saw-m., 1 shingle-factory, and 2 flour-m. : and many valuable mill-seats yet invite occupancy. One of the flour-mills is the largest in Sussex co., and is the pro- perty of Mr. Morris, a citizen, and brother of the Mayor of New-York. Much may be said, too, of the agreeableness of this vicinity. It has, in addition to its unsurpassed


مطان لع ودة السر


اجمالي


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SUSSEX COUNTY.


beauties of scenery, an ornament of which any rural town in our country might justly be proud, in a well-conducted Female Seminary. The fitness of the location, the ele- gance of the building, and the experience of the Principal, (Mrs. Dayton,) conjoin to make it attractive to those who would have their daughters acquire health with learn- ing. I am happy to find that Mrs. D. is not unknown to some of your citizens. The edifice stands on high ground at the southern extreme of the valley in which Sparta lies. For several miles is seen stretching up between beautiful hill-sides a charming vale, its bosom studded with living lakes and green clusters of trees. To see, is to be delighted with the prospect.


From a clear summit near by may be seen Newton and Augusta, surrounded by the just now blooming buckwheat hills of Sussex, and in the distance, though distinctly visible, the Delaware Water Gap and the Wind Gap of the Delaware, the Turnpike Gap, (searce- ly less admirable,) between Newton and Milford, and the blue hills of Pennsylvania and New York. At the base of the summit lies a lake of remarkable beauty. No part of our country more abounds in beautiful lakes. Some of these are peculiar as containing white shells ; and this reminds me of the mineralogical and geological interest of the locality. Prof. Rogers, of Philadelphia, has made repeated visits, and Dr. Samuel Fowler has enriched the cabinet of the college of New Jersey with a few thousand spe- cimens gathered here. He has also favored the Female Seminary of the place in the same way.


This is the only locality of zinc in our country. A rich vein extends 4 miles, as we know by its out-croppings. Companies from Boston and New-York have made efforts to purchase it, but European labor is too cheap to permit them to pay a price worth naming, and work it. Should a rupture occur between Europe and America, or should regulations be made in trade so that this mine can ever be worked, it will prove an im- mense source of wealth to the possessors.


Reader, when you would escape from "Vanity Fair" to enjoy nature in her most lux- uriant retirements, come to Sparta. It is one of her banqueting halls, where she keeps holiday the summer through. For the languid frame and the siek heart, there is no- thing like the pure elastie air, the reviving atmosphere of these mountain solitudes, where every breeze visits the senses as if laden with the renovating spirit of life. You will here learn, too, what few seem to know, that the most charming parts of New Jer- sey are the least frequented.


Ogdensburg, 3 miles N. of Sparta, contains 15 or 20 dwellings. Franklin is about 5 miles N. of Sparta, and 11 from Newton. It is a thriving place, where the iron manufacture is extensively car- ried on. Large quantities of pig iron are made, hollow-ware, stoves, &c. It contains 2 forges, a cupola and a blast furnace, a ,grist and 2 saw mills, a neat Baptist church built of stone, and 36 dwellings.


MONTAGUE.


This township is situated upon the Delaware, in the NW. corner of the state, centrally distant NW. from Newton 16 miles. It is 84 miles long, with an average width of 6 miles. It is bounded N. by part of Orange co., N. Y., E. by Wantage, S. by Sandiston, and W. by the Delaware. There are 4 grist-m., 1 saw-m., 6 schools, 143 scholars. Pop. 1,025. The eastern part is mountain- ous, being covered by the Blue mountains, the western and middle portion level or undulating, and extremely fertile. It is well wa- tered by numerous streams, and a fine bridge crosses the Delaware below Milford, Pennsylvania.


The following account of an Indian incursion into Montague, in the war of the revolution, was verbally communicated to the com- pilers by a resident, the Hon. Isaac Bonnell.


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One morning about daylight, a party of about 30 Indians crossed the Delaware in canoes, and attacked a dwelling occupied by a family by the name of Jobs,* where they killed and scalped three young men of the family, and took the remainder prisoners. From thence they crossed Shimer's brook, to the dwellingt of Capt. Abra- ham Shimer, about fifty rods north. The Captain, who was of German extraction, and a very brave man, had with him 5 or 6 negroes ; and, as he had incurred the deadly hatred of the Indians, his capture was the prominent object of their incursion. One or two of the savages had entered the house, ere the inmates were apprized of danger. The negroes instantly rushed upon them and forced them out. The captain, at that time in bed, was alarmed by his slaves. He immediately ordered the doors and windows of the lower story to be barricaded, and stationed the negroes at them armed with axes, while he, with the only gun in the house, went up stairs, placed a feather-bed against the window, leaving one pane of glass uncovered, through which he fired at the Indians. They returned the fire, and one of their balls entered through the same pane,¿ and grazed the captain's face. Shimer shot one of them, breaking his thigh, and he was borne off by his companions. A small fort, at that time occupied by militia, stood on the banks of the Delaware. Tidings had been conveyed to them of the ap- proach of the Indians ; but thinking it was false, they paid no at- tention to it, until hearing the firing at Shimers, they came to the rescue. A skirmish ensued, and the Indians retreated across the Delaware, abandoning in their haste all their prisoners, among whom was one of the captain's negroes.




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