Historical collections of the state of New Jersey : containing a general collection of the most interesting facts, traditions, biographical sketches, anecdotes, etc. relating to its history and antiquities, with geographical desciptions of every township in the state., Part 66

Author: Barber, John Warner, 1798-1885. cn; Howe, Henry, 1816-1893. cn
Publication date: 1857
Publisher: Newark, N.J. : Pub. for B. Olds by J.H. Bradley ; New Haven : J.W. Barber
Number of Pages: 1076


USA > New Jersey > Historical collections of the state of New Jersey : containing a general collection of the most interesting facts, traditions, biographical sketches, anecdotes, etc. relating to its history and antiquities, with geographical desciptions of every township in the state. > Part 66


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WARREN COUNTY.


1,000 inhabitants. There are two bridges across the Pequest, one of stone, the other wood; and a covered wooden bridge, 630 feet long, supported on stone piers and abutments, across the Delaware. The latter was built in 1835, partly destroyed, by a freshet, April 11, 1836, and rebuilt in the year following ; the entire cost being about $25,000. The Pequest river falls about 50 feet, in the last mile of its course, affording a heavy water-power ; a part only of which is at present occupied. The Delaware, here 600 feet wide, falls twenty-two feet within a mile and a half; below where half its waters may be used for manufacturing purposes. These two water-powers together are greater than those at Paterson, and far exceed any others in the state.


Two railroads, terminating at Belvidere, have been chartered and surveyed ; one an extension of the Somerville railroad, and the other called the Belvidere Delaware railroad, following the course of the river to Trenton. The estimated cost of the former is about $800,000, and of the latter $1,000,000. As these roads would con- nect, at Belvidere, with the Susquehanna and Delaware railroad, passing through the immense coal-beds of the Lackawanna and Susquehanna, and with it, and the Leggett's Gap railroad, form a chain of roads extending to the western part of the New York and Erie railroad, thus making a line of communication from New York to Lake Erie considerably shorter, over lower grades, and at less expense than that by the eastern part of the New York and Erie Railroad,-it is altogether probable that one or both will be constructed, as soon as confidence is sufficiently restored to induce the prosecution of such works; and, should either be built, the im- mense water-powers of Belvidere must render it a place of great importance.


From the number of arrow-heads and other relics found here. it is evident that Belvidere was a favorite resort of the Indians; but nothing is known of its history previous to the settlement of the whites. The first settler was Robert Patterson, who estab- lished himself here, it is believed, about the middle of the last cen- tury. Shortly after, a small blockhouse was erected, on the north side of the Pequest, some 30 or 40 yards east of the present toll- house of the Belvidere Delaware bridge. Some time previous to the revolutionary war, a battle was fought, on the Pennsylvania side of the river, between a band of Indians, who came from the north, and the Delawares residing in the neighborhood, aided by the whites; in which the latter were defeated, and driven to the Jersey side. In 1792, the village consisted of a grist-mill, on the site now occupied by the " old mill," a saw-mill on the opposite side of the Pequest. and six dwelling-houses. No part of these buildings now remains, except the stone foundation of the old mill. At that time, the principal part of the land north of the Pequest was owned by Maj. Robert Hoops, who gave the place its name, prob- ably from the beauty of its situation ; while that on the south side, including the water-powers, belonged to the celebrated Robert Mor-


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WARREN COUNTY.


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ris, who soon after (Nov. 15, 1793) entailed it upon his daughter, the wife of Charles Croxall, and her children. This entail, during its continuance, greatly retarded the prosperity of the place. In 1824 Belvidere was chosen as the county-seat for the newly-formed county of Warren, and the courthouse and offices were, during the year 1825, built on land granted for that purpose by Garret D. Wall, Esq., then owner of the Croxall estate. The commissioners assigned by the legislature to locate the county buildings, were Nathaniel Saxton, Esq., of Hunterdon, Col. M'Courry, of Morris, and Thomas Gordon, Esq., of Trenton.


The Wesleyan chapel (Methodist) was incorporated Aug. 9, 1825, and built in that and the following year. The Presbyterian church was incorporated Feb. 26, 1830, built in 1833 and 1834, and organized Nov. 25, 1834; at which time the Rev. Isaac N. Can- dee was installed pastor. Mr. Candee resigned his charge March 26, 1840, and the . Rev. James Clark, the present pastor, was installed April 29, 1840. Zion church (Episcopalian) was incorporated Sept. 30th, 1833, built in 1835 and 1836, and consecrated, by the Rt. Rev. Bishop Doane, Sept. 14, 1836. When first incorporated the congregation was under the charge of Rev. R. H. Freeman, missionary. Rev. Henry Tell was appointed missionary in 1835, and the church built under his care. He left in the spring of 1841, when Rev. John H. Hanson was appointed, who remained one year. Froin the spring of 1842 to the summer of 1843, there was no regular minis- ter, services being performed by the Rev. Mr. Jaques, of Hope. The present incumbent, Rev. David Clarkson, was appointed missionary in the summer of 1843.


The First Presbyterian Church of Oxford .- In the year 1744, the Rev. James Camp- bell preached the gospel in the first Presbyterian congregation of Oxford, in the county of Morris, (now Warren.) Oxford was then called Upper Greenwich. The Rev. David Brainerd, Indian missionary, preached sundry times for said congregation. The Rev. Daniel Lawrance officiated sundry times. About the year 1749, the said congregation put themselves under the care of the New Brunswick presbytery, and made application for supplies. In 1755 the Rev. Thomas Lewis officiated, as a stated supply, for some time. In 1764 the congregation elected three men, who were set apart as elders, by the Rev. Benj. Hight. About the same time a call was given to the Rev. John Rosebrough to officiate, in connection with Greenwich and Mansfield, (Woodhouse.) He continued at Oxford one third of his time for the space of five years. Afterward several supplies officiated, until the year 1775, when Rev. John Debow was engaged, first as a supply, and afterward received a call for Oxford and Mount Bethel. In 1777 the Rev. Philip Stockton accepted a call, in connection with Knowlton and Mansfield, and continued some three or four years. In 1787 the Rev. Asa Dunham accepted a call for Oxford and Mount Bethel. About this time the church which now stands appears to have been built ; previous to which, a building of hewn logs had stood near the present site. Rev. Mr. Dunham continued several years, after which supplies officiated until 1805, when Rev. David Barclay received a call. In 1819 Rev. Lemuel F. Leake received a call ; in 1830 Rev. Mr. Candee ; in 1835 Rev. Robert Love; in 1839 Rev. John J. Carroll ; in 1842 Rev. James Mc William, the present pastor-he being the first whose ministerial services have been engaged for the whole time, excepting the Rev. Mr. Candee, pre- vious to the organization of the new church at Belvidere.


A small academy was built on the north side of the Pequest, in 1821 or 1822 ; and a large one has just been commenced on the south side.


The Belvidere Bank was chartered Feb. 13th, 1830, and went into operation Jan. 1, 1831-capital $100,000. It divides seven per cent. per annum, and has a surplus of nearly $19,000. In 1837, a company of the citizens purchased a part of the water-powers of the Pequest, and built a dam and canal, by which a tier of mill- sites, with a fall of 18 feet, was formed in the centre of the town; but, owing to want of capital, only three of these sites are yet oc- cupied.


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WARREN COUNTY.


PAHAQUARRY.


Pahaquarry, the NW. township of the county, was formed from Walpack, Sussex co., in 1824. It is long and narrow, being 12 miles long, and 1} wide, and is bounded NE. by Walpack, Sussex co., SE. by Hardwick and Knowlton, and SW. and NW. by the Delaware river. It has not any villages, and is very thinly settled, having a population of only 370, being the smallest of any town- ship in the state. It derives its name from a town belonging to the Minisink tribe, anciently standing there.


Pahaquarry is the most secluded township in New Jersey, lying in a nook between the mountains and the Delaware. The Blue mountain, running its whole length, occupies all its surface except a narrow fertile strip on the river, nowhere over 80 rods in width, but extending the whole length of the township. The mountain and river scenery is uncommonly beautiful and sublime ; and the Delaware Water Gap is partly in the township, in its southern por- tion. On the Jersey side of the Gap is a place where the ledge comes boldly down to the road-side, called the Indian Ladder, which a few years since, before the road was constructed, came down perpen- dicularly to the water's edge and prevented the inhabitants from · having a free communication with other parts of the county. In olden times the Indians had there a kind of ladder made of an up- right tree ; afterward a rope ladder was made by the whites ; but it was a dangerous place to get over, being 30 or 40 feet in height. and only surmountable by foot passengers. On the summit of the Blue mountain are two beautiful lakes, probably on land over a 1,000 feet above the level of the Delaware. Near one of them is a chalybeate spring, called "the paint spring," which deposits ferruginous ochre. "In the valley," says Prof. Rogers in his report, " which divides the mountain into two ridges, at the Water Gap, and about two miles and a half from the river on the Jersey side, a spot has been found containing very excellent hematite iron ore. In what quantity the ore exists has not yet been ascertained ; though the impression prevails that the Blue mountain contains, in many places, iron ore in sufficient quantity to justify a more minute ex- amination. There are current throughout this Blue mountain region various stories of localities of silver and other precious min- erals ; but such tales will only be listened to by the over-credulous, as every thing in the geological structure of the district must indicate to persons at all versed in mineralogy and mining, the very slender probability of there existing in this place any mineral treasures of this nature." At an early period in the settlement of the country several openings were made into the western base of the Blue mountain in search of copper ore.


On the farm of Abraham Van Campen, Esq., near the blacksmith shop of Mr. Andrew Ribbles, in the central part of the township, there was once an Indian burial-place. Many skeletons and relics


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WARREN COUNTY.


have been ploughed up, such as guns, kettles, blankets, crucifixes, bell-buttons, beads, pipes, &c. A few years since the skeleton of what is supposed to have been an Indian chief, was disinterred. He was found wrapped in a blanket, in a sort of stone coffin, and buried in his war costume, decked with beads and all the paraphernalia of savage splendor. A gun lay on each side, with the breech at his feet and the barrel across his shoulder. Over these lay his arms, with the hands folded across his breast, under which lay two spoons crossed. Behind his neck was his tobacco-box and ammunition. Several crosses were placed on his body; among which, on his breast was a large brass one, nicely cast, bearing on one side the figure of Christ, and on the other, one representing his ascension.


The following, from Hazard's Register, throws some light on the early settlements on the Delaware, in this section of country. It is extracted from two letters written by Samuel Preston, Esq., and dated Stockport, June 6th and 14th, 1828.


MEENESINK, MINE HOLES, &c .- In 1787, the writer went on his first surveying tour into Northampton county ; he was deputy under John Lukens, surveyor-general, and received from him, by way of instructions, the following narrative respecting the settle- ment of Meenesink, on the Delaware, above the Kittanny and Blue inountain :


That the settlement was formed a long time before it was known to the government in Philadelphia. That when government was informed of the settlement, they passed a law in 1729, that any such purchases of the Indians should be void, and the purchasers in- dicted for " forcible entry and detainer," according to the laws of England. That in 1730, they appointed an agent to go and investigate the facts ; that the agent so appointed was the famous surveyor Nicholas Scull ; that he, James Lukens, was then N. Scull's appren- tice to carry chain and learn surveying. That he accompanied N. Scull. As they both understood and could talk Indian, they hired Indian guides, and had a fatiguing journey, there being then no white inhabitants in the upper part of Bucks or Northampton county ; that they had very great difficulty to lead their horses through the Water Gap to Meene- sink Flats, which were all settled with Hollanders; with several they could only be un- derstood in Indian. At the venerable Samuel Dupuis' they found great hospitality and plenty of the necessaries of life. J. Lukens said that the first thing that struck his ad- miration was a grove of apple-trees, of size far beyond any near Philadelphia. That as N. Scull and himself examined the banks, they were fully of opinion that all those flats had at some very former age been a deep lake before the river broke through the moun- tain, and that the best interpretation they could make of Meenesink was, the water is gone. That S. Dupuis told them when the rivers were frozen he had a good road to Esopus, (now Kingston,) from the mine holes, on the mine-road some hundred miles. That he took his wheat and cider there for salt and necessaries, and did not appear to have any knowledge or idea where the river ran, Philadelphia market, or being in the government of Pennsylvania.


They were of opinion, that the first settlements of Hollanders in Meenesink were many- years older than William Penn's charter, and as S. Dupuis had treated them so well, they concluded to make a survey of his claim in order to befriend him if necessary. When they began to survey, the Indians gathered around ; an old Indian laid his hand on N. Scull's shoulder, and said, " Put up iron string, go home ;" they then quit and returned.


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I·had it in charge from John Lukens to learn more particulars respecting the mine-road to Esopus, &c. I found Nicholas Dupuis, Esq., (son of Samuel,) living in a spacious stone house in great plenty and affluence. The old mine-holes were a few miles above, on the Jersey side of the river by the lower point of Paaquarry Flat ; that the Meenesink settlement extended 40 miles or more on both sides of the river. That he had well known the mine-road to Esopus, and used, before he opened the. boat channel through Foul Rift, to drive on it several times every winter with loads of wheat and cider; as also did his neighbors to purchase their salt and necessaries in Esopus, having then no other market or knowledge where the river ran to. That after a navigable channel was opened through


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WARREN COUNTY.


Foul Rifts they generally took to boating, and most of the settlement turned their trade down stream, the mine-road became less and less travelled.


This interview with the amiable Nicholas Dupuis, Esq., was in June, 1787. He then appeared about 60 years of age. I interrogated as to the particulars of what he knew, as to when and by whom the mine-road was made, what was the ore they dug and hauled on it, what was the date, and from whence or how came the first settlers of Meenesink in such great numbers as to take up all the flats on both sides of the river for forty miles. He could only give traditional accounts of what he had heard from older people, without date, in substance as follows :


" That in some former age there came a company of miners from Holland, supposed from the great labor expended in making that road, about one hundred miles long, that they were very rich, or great people in working the two mines, one on the Delaware, where the mountain nearly approaches the lower point of Paaquarry Flat, the other at the north foot of the same mountain, near half way between the Delaware and Esopus. He ever understood that abundance of ore had been hauled on that road, but never could learn whether lead or silver. That the first settlers came from Holland to seek a place of quiet, being persecuted for their religion. I believe they were Arminians. They follow- ed the mine-road to the large flats on the Delaware; that smooth cleared land, and such an abundance of large apple-trees, suited their views ; that they ' bona fide' bought the improvements of the native Indians, most of whoin then removed to Susquehanna ; that with such as remained, there was peace and friendship until 1755."


I then went to view the Paaquarry mine-holes. There appeared to have been a great abundance of labor done there at some former time, but the mouths of these holes were caved full and overgrown with bushes. I concluded to myself if there ever had been a rich mine under that mountain, it must be there yet in close confinement. The other old men I conversed with, gave their traditions similar to Nicholas Dupuis, and they all appeared to be grandsons of the first settlers, and generally very illiterate as to dates or any thing relating to chronology.


In the summer of 1789, I began to build on this place, there came two venerable gen- tlemen on a surveying expedition. They were the late Gen. James Clinton, the father of the late De Witt Clinton, and Christopher Tappan, Esq., clerk and recorder of Ulster co. For many years before they had both been surveyors under Gen. Clinton's father when he was surveyor-general. In order to learn some history from gentlemen of their gen- eral knowledge, I accompanied them in the woods. They both well knew the mine-holes, mine-road, &c., and as there was no kind of documents or records thereof, united in the opinion that it was a work transacted while the State of New York belonged to the government of Holland, that it fell to the English in 1664, and that the change of gov- ernment stopped the mining business, and that the road must have been made many years before so much digging could have been done. That it undoubtedly must have been the first good road of that extent ever made in any part of the United States.


KNOWLTON.


Knowlton is 9 miles long, 7 wide, and is bounded NW. by Paha- quarry, E. by Hardwick, SE. by Hope, S. by Oxford, and W. by the Delaware river. There are in the township 16 schools, 769 scholars. Pop. 2,310.


The Blue mountain forms its NW. boundary ; its surface is else- where generally hilly, abounding in many knolls, from which the township is said to have derived its name. The Paulinskill runs centrally through Knowlton and empties into the Delaware just S. of the village of Columbia.


Columbia, on the Delaware river, 9 miles NW. of Belvidere. con- tains a large saw-mill, several mechanic shops, a Methodist church, and about 25 dwellings. Knowlton Mills, upwards of a mile NE. of the above, on the Paulinskill, contains a large grist, a saw, and a clover mill, and a few dwellings. Blairstown, formerly called


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WARREN COUNTY.


Gravel Hill, contains a store, a grist-mill, several mechanics, a tan- nery, 15 or 20 dwellings, 1 Methodist and 1 Presbyterian church. Centreville, Walnut Valley, and Sodom respectively contain a few dwellings.


The passage, in the Blue or Kittanny mountain, through which the Delaware river winds, is partly on the boundary of this town- ship. It is supposed by geologists that this deep, winding chasm was wrought by some mighty convulsion of nature, clearing the rocks and opening a passage for the river, which previously flowed through some other channel. The annexed description. by the junior compiler of this volume, was published in September, 1842, and entitled " A Day at the Delaware Water Gap."


Southern entrance of the Delaware Water Gap.


This wild and romantic pass is usually approached from the south. At a great dis- tance in this direction the Blue mountain is seen running southwesterly in one unva- rying line, for perhaps 50 miles, crossing into Pennsylvania and forming the boundary of the horizon. The range rises nearly 2,000 feet, and forms an unbroken chain, except- ing where two deep notches appear to be cut through the mountain. The first, the Water Gap, through which the Delaware forces its passage ; the second, the Wind Gap, fourteen miles southwest of the former, in Pennsylvania, over which winds a stage-road.


A week since last Wednesday, I left the fine village of Belvidere for the Water Gap, and will now endeavor to describe my adventures at that interesting spot. For several days previous, I had a distant view of the Blue mountain with its deep chasm, and longed to


" Visit those lonely regions, where, retired From little scenes of art, great Nature dwells In awful solitude."


On that day my wish was gratified. As I approached, the mountain apparently grew higher and more precipitous, and the chasm deeper and more appalling ; but not until I had ascended an eminence half a mile south of the opening, did the scene burst upon


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me in all its vastness. From this point I took the sketch represented in the accompa- nying engraving.


On each side of the Gap the mountains are seen rising to the height of nearly one third of a mile, their sides clothed with the towering hemlock and other forest trees. In many places huge ledges of rock, hundreds of feet high, stand frowning forth ; and on the Jersey or right side descend precipitously to the water's edge. In the distance the mountains appear lower, more graceful, and, curving around to the left, shut out a further. prospect. From between, the Delaware comes winding down in all her majesty, like one vast sheet of liquid silver, and giving the finishing touch to a landscape of sur. passing grandeur.


As evening approached, I proceeded to the tavern seen at the base of the mountain. Supper was soon ready. Capacious dishes, filled almost to overflowing with a desirable variety, were piled promiscuously in " country fashion" on the board. While helping myself liberally to the good things, and partaking of the best of coffee, the landlady, a hale, robust, elderly woman, amused me with stories of rattlesnakes and other reptiles that infest these regions, until I almost trembled at the thought of ascending the moun- tain on the morrow.


After dark, I went into the Gap, and there witnessed a novel method of fishing. Se- veral lines were stretched across the river, at that place about forty rods wide, to which were attached smaller ones with hooks. Once in an hour or two, the fishermen would row across the stream, take in their lines, gather the fish, and then reset them. Not wishing to join in so unscientific a method of angling, I seated myself alone on a fallen trunk, under some trees, beside the river bank. I shall never forget that moment. On the opposite side, high in air, in gloomy grandeur, arose the Jersey mountain ; its rough, craggy precipices, and deep, fearful chasms, just discerned through the blackness of night, were reflected boldly on the surface of the river, which appeared dark and unfa- thomable as eternity. A few stars were twinkling far away above the mountain, and here and there, on the other bank, a light from some solitary dwelling cast rays across the blackened waters. Immediately behind me, lay the fishermen in grotesque postures around a huge fire, the warm light of which illumining the leafy canopy over my head, enhanced the wild sublimity of this Alpine scene.>


The next morning, in company with the landlady's son, and a small dog as a protec- tion against snakes, I crossed the river, and commenced the toilsome ascent of the Jer- sey mountain. At first, I experienced slight trepidation, momentarily expecting to hear the low, terrific warning of a rattlesnake, or feel the sting of some malicious pilot, as he darted from a jutting rock into my face ; but our little cur going ahead, snuffing and smelling among the stones in search of these reptiles, set an example of fearlessness that his superiors were glad to copy. We at length arrived at the summit, when was presented a scene of glory. To the south it was


" A gaily checkered, heart-expanding view, Far as the circling eye could shoot around."


A vast expanse was spread out in the luxuriance of vegetation ; diversified with hills, valleys, woodlands, cultivated fields, and here and there a dwelling. Through this lovely landscape gently wound the Delaware ; the gurgling of its passing waters in the vale in soft murmurs reached the heights above. To the north, up the gorge, the scene was wild. On the left, the Pennsylvania mountain came abruptly down to the water's edge. To the right and front, the eminence we were on curved around, and enclosing the river in a basin, imparted to it the similitude of a lake, as it lay below, deep and sombre in the shadow of encircling hills. Still further on, the whole background was filled with long ranges of irregularly peaked mountains ; those near, fresh in their livery of green ; those beyond, assuming a deep blue color, and then becoming fainter and fainter, until mellowing away like indistinct clouds afar off in the horizon.




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