History of Hunterdon and Somerset counties, New Jersey : with illustrations and biographical sketches of its prominent men and pioneers, Part 43

Author: Snell, James P; Ellis, Franklin, 1828-1885
Publication date: 1881
Publisher: Philadelphia : Everts & Peck
Number of Pages: 1170


USA > New Jersey > Somerset County > History of Hunterdon and Somerset counties, New Jersey : with illustrations and biographical sketches of its prominent men and pioneers > Part 43
USA > New Jersey > Hunterdon County > History of Hunterdon and Somerset counties, New Jersey : with illustrations and biographical sketches of its prominent men and pioneers > Part 43


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In this ridge are many sand-pits. From them are taken large quantities of sand used by the neighbor- ing people for building purposes. In the terminus of this ridge, along the Delaware River, are extensive quarries of freestone.


THE TABLE-LAND OF HUNTERDON COUNTY.


Over against the Sandy Ridge, towards the north- West, at the distance of some two miles, the surface, from the Delaware River northeastward for about eleven miles, rises up somewhat abruptly to a promi- nent ridge. This ridge is the southern brow of the tabh-land in Hunterdon County. A continuation of this same ridge, extending around towards the north, forms the eastern brow of the above-named table-land to the Cakepoulin rivulet. This ridge, in most places, presents this peculiarity, namely, over against it to- wards the northwest or towards the west is another ridge, which in the main is a few feet the more ele- vated. These ridges are not exactly parallel. . At some places they are less than five hundred feet, at others more than five hundred yards, apart.


To facilitate in this description we will call the most southerly of the ridges the brow of the table-land of Ilunterdon, and the one over against it the counter- brow. The space between these ridges we will call the tronglı.


In many places the brow consists of a protruding ridge of very hard reddish or bluish rock. In others it consists of a ridge of the same kind of rock, sparsely covered with soil and fragments of the underlying rock.


The counter-brow, for the most part, is a bolder ridge than the brow. In many places it consists of a ridge of very hard reddish or bluish strata of rock that breaks with a conchoidal fracture. Here the southern border is often an escarpment of nude strata that rise up like a wall to the height of from fonr to six feet. At other places the wall-like escarpment is more bold. Such is the case in that part that extends from the Pittstown road eastward for a mile or two. Such, also, is the case in that part that extends northward from the road that leads from Flemington to ('roton. A similar condition may be seen not far from Locktown. At other places it is covered with a sparse deposit of soil and fragments of rocks. At others still it is deeply covered with soil, and is ditli- cult to trace.


The trough formed by these two ridges for the most part is narrow, and consists of fragments of rock,- broken mainly from the counter-brow,-in some places deeply, in some places sparsely, covered with a clayey soil. In many places the drainage is bad. This circumstance, in connection with the flat condi- tion of the surface of the soil to the north of the counter-brow, gave to this belt of country the name swamp. In fact, both the surface of this trough and that of the land skirting the counter-brow towards the northwest has until recently been in that condition that it well merited the name. Especially is this the case about Locktown, about Croton, and elsewhere.


Northwest of Flemington the elevation of the counter-brow above the level of the sea is five hun- dred and fifty feet ; at the Hen's Foot it is seven hun- dred and thirty feet ; at the culmen, north of Cherry- ville, it is seven hundred and seventy-five feet.


At Amos Barder's, on the road that extends from Ringos to C'roton, the brow attains an altitude of four hundred and seventy feet; at David Morgan's, . north of Rosemont, the summit is about three hun- dred and seventy-five feet.


QUAKER RIDGE.


From the brow of this table-land of the northwest part of Hunterdon the surface gradually descends for a little way, and then as gradually ascends to the crest of the Quaker Ridge. This ridge extends across the table-land from the Delaware, south of French- town, to the South Branch of the Raritan, near the confluence of that stream with the Cakepoulin rivu- let. This ridge is not sharp; it- outline is graceful, and


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HUNTERDON COUNTY, NEW JERSEY.


its surface well suited to agriculture. It culminates in an eminence north of Cherryville.


That part of the table-land included between the brow on the southeast and the northeast, the Quaker Ridge on the north, and the valley of the Delaware River on the west, is known as the swamp. Its greatest elevation is in the culmen of the counter- brow, a few rods north of the Baptist church at Cherryville. The general slope of this area is towards the southwest. Without exception, the streams drain- ing this section have a very sluggish flow and dis- charge their waters into the Delaware. In gen- eral, it is not easy of drainage, and requires much skill on the part of the husbandman to raise a mod- crate crop of any of the cereals. The forest is largely composed of pin-oak, white-oak, hickory, and maple.


North of the Quaker Ridge, extending entirely across the table-land, is a deep, narrow trough known as Spring Valley. This valley divides the table-land into two nearly equal parts. Its sides everywhere are very steep. From these sides flow numerous never- failing springs. To this circumstance the valley owes its name.


This valley, by a water-shed of considerable eleva- tion, situated a little to the west of Pittstown, is divided into two nearly equal parts. To the east of this water-shed is the Cakepoulin basin; to the west is the basin of the Nishisakawick.


FLINT RIDGE.


Towards the northwest from Spring Valley the sur- face of the country gradually rises up to the crest of a slight ridge, which extends across the table-land in a northeast and southwest direction. This is Flint Ridge. The crest of this ridge, near the road that leads from Pittstown to Bloomsbury, attains an alti- tude of eight hundred and fifty-nine feet. East of this point the elevation of the ridge is higher; west of it, it is lower,


In some places the surface is bestrewed with bowl- ders of whitish, grayish, or reddish quartzite that very much interfere with agricultural processes. The cen- tral part of this area is the region known as the bar- rens. Upon the soil of this section, almost to the ex- clusion of every other kind of forest-tree, grows the chestnut. Indeed, for a long time the barrens has . been famed for the excellency of its chestnut timber.


To the northwest of Flint Ridge is a slight trough. From this trough the surface rises up to the crest of the Musconetcong Mountain, which is an elevation that extends from the Delaware, just south of the con- fluence of the Musconctcong River, northeast as far as Spruce Run. This mountain attains an elevation of eight hundred and seventy-four feet above the sea- level near the Bloomsbury and Pittstown road.


Towards the southeast the slope of the Musconct- cong is gentle and graceful, but towards the north- west it is very steep,-in many places precipitous.


From Spruce Run northeast to the South Branch of


the Raritan extends a ridge that is a part of Schooley's Mountain. It is very steep, and for the most part not adapted to agriculture.


FOX HILLS.


Extending northwest from the South Branch into Somerset County are the Fox Hills. The surface of these hills is rugged and stony, and not well suited to agriculture.


LONG RIDGE, ROUND MOUNTAIN, CUSHETONG AND PICKLE'S MOUNTAIN, ETC.


To the east of the table-land, and separated from it by the South Branch of the Raritan River, is an ele- vation, almost crescentic in form, that rises up ab- ruptly from the contiguous plain to the height, in one place, of seven hundred and sixty-seven feet. This is known as Long Ridge. This ridge, although con- tinuous, is usually described as consisting of three parts. The most westerly of these parts is known as Round Mountain. This is an eminence that swells up from the main ridge in a form much resembling a sugar-loaf. Its altitude above the sea-level is five hundred and seventy-five feet. Its slopes are gentle, but the top and sides of it are bestrewed with bowl- ders to such an extent that it is not tillable. Hence, the most elevated part of it is covered with a forest of hard-wood, and is not much frequented. Valueless as it is in point of agriculture, in the landscape of the northeastern part of Hunterdon it forms a spot of beauty. Its graceful slopes and symmetrical curves, as viewed from the Sourland Ridge and the contigu- ous plain, have delighted the eyes of many a lover of the beautiful. Its robe of snowy white in winter, of verdant hue in summer, and its various colors in au- tumn, lit up by the gleam of morning, present to the eyes of the lover of nature a spectacle always attrac- tive and much admired.


The northeastern part of the crescentic ridge is somewhat complicated. It consists of three parts. The southwestern part is broad and bold. It has an altitude of six hundred and seventy-five feet. To- wards the west its surface slopes off gently, and the soil is tillable. Towards the cast the slope is very steep and rocky. It is forest-clad, This part is lo- cally known as the Cushetong Mountain.


The northeastern part consists of a sharp ridge with steep slopes that are bestrewed with rocks and covered, for the most part, with a forest of hard-wood. Upon this ridge are several peaks or eminences which give it the appearance of a sierra. This part of the ridge is known as Pickle's Mountain.


Between the northeastern and the southwestern parts-that is, between the Cushetong and Pickle's Mountain-is a third part, that bears a relation to the other two portions somewhat similar to the relation that the toe of a horseshoe bears to the parts it serves to connect. This is the most southeasterly part of this mountain. It is also the least elevated and the


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PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY AND GEOLOGY OF HUNTERDON COUNTY.


most accessible. Much of it is arable and under good tillage.


Northeast of Pickle's Mountain, at the distance of five miles, is another group of eminences. The lofti- est of these eminences is known as Silver Hill. Upon its top and north slope it is quite rugged and stony. Upon its southern slope the surface is more uniform and freer from stone. Towards the southeast, at a little distance away, Silver Hill is environed by a semi- circular ridge of some prominence.


VALLEYS.


In many places between the several ridges that ex- tend across the county are valleys of more or less local importance. But those demanding a place in a general description of the county are the Red Shale, South Branch, Round, German, Bunn, Musconetcong, and the Delaware valleys.


RED SHALE VALLEY.


Between the Sourland Ridge on the southeast, the Hunterdon table-land, the erescentie ridge, the Fox Ilills, and the semicircular ridge on the northwest, from the Delaware River to the elevations known as First and Second Mountain, extends a plain that varies in width from six to ten miles. Across this plain, from Fisher's Peak northwest to the Hunterdon table-land, extends a water-shed that divides it into two sections.


That part west of this water-shed is known as the Red Shale Valley. The term red shale is applied to this region because almost everywhere the soil thereof is formed from the disintegration of the subjacent red shale rock. This valley is a part of the basin of the Raritan River.


The Red Shale Valley is gently rolling, is every- where well drained, and is very well adapted to agri- culture. The fertility of the soil, the ease of tillage, and its capabilities to withstand the vicissitudes of rainfall make it a most desirable section for the agri- culturist. Nor has it been neglected. Perhaps in the Atlantic States there is not another area so well suited to the culture of maize, wheat, and grass, and perhaps there is not another area of equal size that is so well tilled and so productive.


SOUTH1 BRANCH VALLEY.


This valley embraces the lowlands that lie along the South Branch of the Raritan from the narrows between Round Mountain and the Hunterdon table- lund northward to the narrows between the Musconet- cong Mountain and the Fox Hills. In outline it is very irregular. Its surface is gently rolling and well drained, its soil is well suited to agriculture, and it is well tilled.


ROUND VALLEY.


This is a small area of land partly encompassed by ('ushetong and Pickle's Mountain. Its situation is singular, and, as viewed from the erest of Pickle's Mountain, it is a beautiful factor in a delightful land-


scape. Towards the northwest it communicates with the South Branch Valley ; towards the north with the Red Shale Valley.


GERMAN VALLEY.


That area of lowland extending along the South Branch northwestward between the Fox Hills and Schooley's Mountain is known as the German Valley. At the lower extremity it is narrow. Indeed, at this end it terminates in a deep ravine. Towards the northwest it widens out, until at the distance of -ome six miles above the ravine it is about two miles wide.


That part of this valley that lies within the limits of Hunterdon County is well drained and well suited to agriculture. In it is an abundance of limestone, which is extensively used as a dressing to the farm- lands. The fertility of German Valley is far famed.


MUSCONETCONG VALLEY.


This valley consists of the lowlands extending along the Musconeteong River between the Museonetcong Mountain on the southeast and the Pohatcong Moun- tain on the northwest. This valley is narrow, rolling, well drained, abounding in limestone, well suited to agriculture, and is well tilled. This valley is cele- brated for the excellency of its crops of wheat and grass.


DELAWARE VALLEY.


Along each side of the Delaware River from the Falls of Trenton to the north limit of the Allegheny Mountain is a narrow border of land but a few fe t above the surface of the river. These strips, a little way from the river, are skirted by hills or mountains that rise up more or less abruptly to the height, in some places, of a hundred feet, in some places a thou- sand feet, in some places still higher. In many places the escarpments are mural, elitf-like, or craggy. In a few places the strip of lowland extends back from the river to the distance of a mile or more, gradually ris- ing as it extends away.


The narrow and deep trough forming the bed of the Delaware, its contiguous lowland borders, and the slope of the hills and mountains that skirt these borders constitute the Delaware Valley.


That part of the Delaware Valley that lies within the limits of Hunterdon County consists of a low, narrow, irregular strip of land that extends along the east side of the river between Goat Ilill on the south and the mouth of the Museoneteong River on the north. As a rule, the soil is sandy, loose, easy of till- age, and very fertile.


BUNN VALLEY.


At the mouth of the Hakihokake Rivulet the Dela- ware Valley widens out and extends back from the river to the distance of about six miles. This exten- sion of the lowlands of the Delaware is known as Bunn Valley.


DRAINAGE.


The main streams that serve as the drainage of the surface of Hunterdon County are the Delaware,


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HUNTERDON COUNTY, NEW JERSEY.


which flows along its western border, and the branches of the Raritan, that ramify like a network all the central and eastern part of the county.


RIVERS AND RIVULETS.


THE DELAWARE RIVER.


That part of the Delaware which flows along the western border of our county abounds in rifts, is swift, shallow, rocky, subject to great extremes of depth, and in every way ill suited to navigation. In it are numerous small islands, some of which are tillable. In it, also, are numerous shoals.


Near the southern limit of our county is Wells' Falls. This consists of a rapid and dangerous current swiftly flowing over ledges of indurated shale that, with interruptions, extend quite across the stream. From the earliest times this site has been a terror to the raft-men, and to such others as have at times sub- sisted by managing crafts upon this stream. How- ever, at last art has lent some aid, and now these falls are much less to be dreaded thau they were a few years ago.


Some six miles above Wells' Falls is another shoal, known as the Sow and Pigs. When the stream is low this site is said to be dangerous, but during high water this shoal can hardly be seen.


At Point Pleasant another ledge of indurated shale extends across the river, rendering navigation danger- ous, excepting during a freshet.


Near Ridge's Island is another ledge extending across the stream, which from the earliest times has been considered a place of danger. This is known as Tumbling Dam.


Tributaries of the Delaware .- The Alexsocken is a small rivulet draining a small basin by the same name in the southwestern part of the county. It flows into the Delaware near Lambertville. In the upper part of its course it is a very rapid stream. It is fa- mons for that species of fish known as sucker.


Vandolah's Rill is a rapid and importaut little stream that flows into the canal a little north of the rocky knob called Gilbo. It affords excellent mill-seats.


Wickecheoche is a strong, rapidly-flowing rivulet that rises along the counter-brow of the eastern part of the tahle-land and the southern slope of Quaker Ridge and flows southwestward into the Del- aware and Raritan Canal just south of the southern terminus of the table-land. In the upper part of its course it flows very sluggishly. Through the brow of the table-land it has eroded a very deep ravine. From this ravine to its terminus it is very strong aud flows very rapidly,


Lockatong is a rivulet that rises near the central part of that district known as the swamp. It flows almost south into the Delaware River, a little north of Huffnagle's Island. It drains the western part of the swamp. It has croded a deep and dark ravine, possessing many features of interest, through the brow of the table-land.


Warford's Rill is a small stream that flows into the Delaware opposite Ridge Island.


Copper Rill flows from the western part of the table-land into the Delaware.


Little Nishisakawick and the Greater Nishisakawick are rills that flow into the Delaware at Frenchtown.


Harihohake is a rivulet that flows from the cen- tral part of the barrens southwestward into the Dela- ware.


Hakihokake is a rivulet that flows from the south- eru slope of the Musconetcong Mountain into the Delaware at Milford.


Musconetcong is a small river that flows from Lake Hopatcong southwestward into the Delaware. The water of this stream is noted for clearness. It is the home of the trout. In flow the Musconetcong is rapid. Propelled by it are numerous mills, factories, etc. This stream is the northern boundary of Hunterdon County.


BRANCHES OF THE RARITAN RIVER.


The Lamington is a small river that flows along the eastern border of our county. Gold Brook is a rill that is tributary to the Lamington.


North Rockaway rises in the highlands in Tewks- bury township, and flows southward into the Laming- ton.


South Rockaway rises on the southern slope of the Fox Hills, and flows eastward into the North Rocka- way.


Chambers' Brook flows from the eastern slope of Pickle's Mountain into the North Branch of the Rari- tan.


Hollands' Brook flows from the southeast slope of Pickle's Mountain into the South Branch.


Campbell's Brook flows from the southern slope of Pickle's Mountain southeastward into the South Branch.


The South Branch flows from Budd's Lake, in Schooley's Mountain, southwestward, then southeast- ward, then northeastward, till it joins the North Branch to form the Raritan. It is a river of great importance. Aloug it, and propelled by its waters, are numerous flouring-mills, saw-mills, factories, and the like. The flow of this stream is so gentle that it is controlled with the greatest ease.


Spruce Rivulet flows from the southwestern slope of Schooley's Mountain southward into the South Branch.


Mulhockaway is a rivulet that rises upon Jug Moun- tain and flows westward into Spruce Run.


Cakepoulin flows from the barrens eastward into the South Branch.


Bush Kill is a rill that is tributary to the South Branch.


Neshanic is a rivulet that rises upon the water-shed that divides the Red Shale Valley from the Delaware Valley, and flows eastward into the South Branch. Its flow is geutle. Its waters propel numerous mills, etc. It has several important tributaries.


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PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY AND GEOLOGY OF HUNTERDON COUNTY.


Mine Brook flows from the eastern slope of the table- land southward into the Neshanie, which also receives the waters of Walnut and Sand brooks and Malard rivulet.


As a rule, the rivulets that discharge into the Rari- tan flow gently. Those that discharge into the Dela- ware flow slowly in the upper and longer part, but very rapidly through the last part of the course. For a bed each has excavated a ravine, which in some cases is very deep. This happens from the circum- stance that the table-lands drained by the rivulets flowing into the Delaware are skirted by slopes that are very steep. The Alexsocken in its course de- scends about four hundred feet, although the length of the stream is only about nine miles. The Neshanic descends only about one hundred and fifty feet, al- though its course is over twenty miles long.


SPRINGS.


The permanent springs of Hunterdon County are numerous and excellent. The most famous, so far as known, are:


Martindale's Spring, near Basaltie Cliff, is not affected by the severest drought. The temperature of the water is very little influenced by the heat of sun- mer : in August a thermometer plunged into it stood at 54° Fahr.


Spring on Basaltie Cliff farm is not affected per- ceptibly by the severest drought; temperature in August, 56° Fahr.


Spring near F'isher's Peak is not affected by drought ; temperature in August, 60° Fahr.


The water of these springs is famous. In quality there is very little difference.


Spring from which Vandolah's Rill flows is not af- feeted by drought ; temperature in August, 57° Fahr.


Spring in the woods on B. Larison's farm is perma- nent; temperature in August, 56° Fahr.


Spring in J. S. Wilson's milk-house, above Head- quarters, is permanent; temperature in August, 53!º Fahr.


Spring in the woods below Headquarters, near the roadside, is permanent ; temperature in August, 51º Fahr.


Cold Spring, at the still-house near Sand Brook, is permanent ; temperature in August, 524° Fahr.


The above springs all flow from sandy soils, In every case the water is soft and free from ferruginous properties. The springs found in the loamy soils of the Red Shale Valley are generally much affected by drought. Their water is generally hard, and during the summer it becomes quite warm. I know of no spring surrounded by loamy or elavey soil in the Red Shale Valley that in August has a temperature as low as 6-4º Fahr.


In the swamp permanent springs are numerous. The water of them is generally soft and somewhat colored, and very much affected by the heat of sum- mer.


Upon the table-land north of the Quaker Ridge the water of the springs is generally soft, cool, and clear. Indeed, this region is famed for the excellency of its springs and wells.


CLIMATE.


Although subject to great extremes in temperature and humidity, the climate of Hunterdon County is salubrious. The prevailing wind blows from a point a little south of west. At the beginning of a storm the wind usually blows from the southeast. Although this is the rule, to it there are many exceptions. Sometimes during the whole time of a storm the wind blows from the south. Indeed, our heaviest rainfalls often occur when the wind is blowing from this quar- ter. An cast wind without variation as to direction frequently attends a storm. A northeast wind is not common, but when it occurs it is usually very severe. The winds most dreaded in Hunterdon are those blowing from the south and those blowing from the northeast.


In the main, the winds pass over the surface of Hunterdon County in such a way as to keep the at- mosphere of each valley in proper commotion. To this rule, however, there is one marked exception : this is the valley of the Delaware. From the mouth of the Ilarihohake Creek to Point Pleasant the river flows almost directly south; from Point Pleasant to Brookville it flows cast-southeast; from Brookville to Well's Falls it flows south-southeast. Of this valley, then, there are two sections which are so situated that our most salubrious winds (the westerly ) meet them at almost right angles. It happens, too, that through- out these sections the valley is deep. On both sides the surface rises up abruptly into bills ranging in height from one hundred and fifty to three hundred and fifty feet. Hence, in its course the westerly wind, passing from hilltop to hilltop, sweeps over this narrow deep valley in such a way as to leave that volume of air beneath the level of the hilltops undis- turbed. In this quiet air of these sections of this valley accumulate the effluvia of the animals, both living and dead, and the malaria incident to growing plants, as well as to such as are undergoing decompo- sition. Here then are tit habitats for bacteria and spores, the germs of disease.


Hence, in these valleys prevail epidemies,-malarial fever, scarlatina, diphtheria, and the like.




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