USA > New Mexico > Historical sketches of New Mexico : from the earliest records to the American occupation > Part 10
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Proceeding easterly, after a five days' march, they arrived at Acuco-the present Pueblo of Acoma-a town built on the summit of a great rock, with sides so per- pendicular that ascent was impossible except at one place, and there only by the use of artificial steps. The situation was practically impregnable ; for after ascend- ing 200 steps, it was necessary to climb 100 more that were far more difficult, and then a perpen - dicular ascent of twelve feet remained to be accom- plished, which could only be done by the use of holes made in the face of the rock. On the summit was heaped a quantity of great stones, to be rolled down on the heads of any enemies attempting to scale the height, while those above were entirely protected from danger. The flat crown of the rock contained enough good soil for the cultivation of large quantities of corn, and wells sunk in the solid stone supplied the town with water. Acuco boasted of about 200 warriors, and from their
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fearlessness, and the security of its position, was the terror of the surrounding country.
On the approach of the little band of Spaniards, the Indian's came down boldly into the plain, and haugh- tily forbade them to proceed further; but finding that Alvarado displayed no fear, but was preparing his com- pany to make an attack, they suddenly changed their tone and sued for peace and amity, which were readily accorded. : They soon afterwards presented the Span- iards with a great quantity of poultry, together with bread, corn, piñons, etc., which were very acceptable. Alvarado, however, did not delay, but pressed on his journey, arriving in three days at a province called Tiguex, the inhabitants of which, on seeing Bigotes, who was highly esteemed in all that country, received the Spaniards with great hospitality. The precise loca tion of Tiguex cannot be determined at this time; but from the distance to various surrounding points, such as Jemez, Cicuyé, etc., it is evident that the province lay along the valley of the Puerco River, embracing proba- bly the territory on both sides, and especially to the east. It included twelve villages in all, and its princi- pal towns were probably about west from Bernalillo. Alvarado was so much charmed with the appearance of the country and the kindness of his reception, that he sent an envoy to Coronado at Cibola, recommending that he should bring the whole army to winter there.
Without waiting for a response. the little expedition continued its march, and at the end of five days arrived at Cicuyé, the city of " Bigotes," and which was found to be built of houses four stories in height and strongly fortified. Here they were received with special demon- strations of joy and welcome, escorted into town to the music of drums and fifes, and presented with many cotton goods and turquoises. Cicuyé was situated on the Jemez River. and probably at or near the present pueblo of Santa Ana, as it was about four leagues dis-
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tant from Cia. Alvarado concluded to remain here some little time to give his troops the much-needed rest ; and while so waiting, he met an Indian who was destined to have a great influence on the history of the whole ex- pedition. This was a stranger, held as a servant at Cicuyé, but who had come from the far East, being a native, says Castañeda, " of the country on the border of Florida, of which De Soto has lately explored the in- terior." He bore such a strange resemblance to the Mohammedans of the Orient that the Spaniards called him " the Turk," and by no other name is he mentioned in the chronicles. This man, from his first meeting with Alvarado, began to tell, in most extravagant terms, of wonderful cities to be found in his own country to the east and of their vast riches in gold and silver. Sothor- oughly did he impress Alvarado with these stories that the Captain felt it but a loss of time to explore a country containing little else but buffaloes ; and so, after proceed- ing just to the edge of the plains, where he could see those animals, he hastened back to meet Coronado and tell him of the great news he had received.
Meanwhile the latter had concluded to act on the ad- vice of Alvarado as to wintering at Tiguex, and had sent Cardenas in advance to prepare quarters for the soldiers. This was done with much harshness and cruelty, the inhabitants being driven out of their houses, and not even allowed to take their goods, with the exception of the clothes they wore-a poor return for the hospitality extended by them to Alvarado. Coronado himself waited at Cibola until the arrival of Tristan de Arellano with re-inforcements, and then set out for Tiguex with thirty men, leaving directions for the main body to follow in three weeks. Wishing to visit a province of eight villages of which he had heard, called Tutahaco, he took a different route from that by Acuco, and after great suffering from thirst in a desert region-(which must have been west of the
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present Fort Wingate),-he arrived by an eight days' march at the towns which he determined to see. This province of Tutahaco was evidently in the valley of the river now called San Jose, the only one of its towns still existing being the Pueblo of Laguna. The General found the people friendly and well-disposed, and their towns, clothing, and customs similar to those in the vicinity of Cibola. He followed the San José down to its junction with the Puerco, and then ascended the valley of the latter until he arrived at Tiguex, where he met Alvarado and " the Turk." The latter repeated to Coronado what he had before narrated, with perhaps greater embellishments. He said that in his native country, to the east, was a great river two leagues in width, containing fish of the size of a horse, and nav- igated by boats carrying twenty oarsmen on a side, as well as using sails; that the nobles sat in the stern of these vessels under canopies, surrounded by all kinds of magnificence. He stated that the lord of the land took a daily siesta in the shade of a great tree, from whose branches hung golden bells that the moving air caused to ring, and added, with a thorough knowledge of the hopes and wishes of the Spaniards, that the com- monest vessels for water were of finely worked silver, and the plates and other table utensils of gold.
These stories, however extravagant, the Spaniards believed implicitly, and, as we shall soon see, put such confidence in the Turk as to make them distrust all others. For instance, the former told them, by way of corroboration, that he had brought several golden brace- lets from his own country when he came to Cicuyé ; and when the Spaniards sent to find them, and were informed by the people that such things had never been seen there, and that the Turk was a notorious liar who could never be trusted, they actually disbelieved the latter ; and seizing the Cacique and Bigotes, from whom they had received so much aid as well as kindness, carried
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them in chains to Tiguex in order to extort a confession as to the missing ornaments, and kept them in confine- ment more than six months. This conduct naturally caused great indignation among the natives, which was increased by the injustice and rapacity which character- ized the actions of the officers appointed by Coronado to collect cotton goods for clothing for the soldiers, and by other outrages not easy to be forgiven. At length they met in their estufa and held an important council, in which, after long deliberation and the consideration of all their wrongs, they concluded that the only course be- fore them was to make war on their oppressors and drive them from the land.
The next morning news came to the Spaniards that the Indians had risen and killed one of their native al- lies, and were driving off the horses. Pursuit was im- mediately made, and a few of the animals recovered, but the greater number were lost. Soldiers were sent to several of the neighboring villages, but they every- where found the houses closed and barricaded, and failed to draw the Indians out from these strongholds. It was evidently an arranged policy to act on the defensive, as by this means they had a large advantage. The General then sent Cardenas with the greater part of the army to lay siege to one of the towns, and bring it to terms. He succeeded in taking the Indians unawares, and gained the tops of the houses before they knew of his approach, but the men then suffered severely from arrows fired from loop-holes in the opposite buildings. The Spaniards maintained themselves in this position all that day and night, and the greater part of the suc- ceeding day, fighting continually ; when they were re- lieved by the strategy of their Indian allies, who dug under-ground passages to some of the houses, and by the aid of certain inflammable materials so filled them with smoke that the inmates were compelled to come out and sue for peace. Pablo Lopez Melgosa and Diego Lo-
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pez made the recognized sign of peace in reply, by cross- ing their hands ; whereupon the Indians threw down their arms and surrendered. They were then conducted to the tent of Cardenas, who, it is said, did not know the circumstances of their surrender, but supposed they had been captured without any condition, and there- upon ordered that they should all be burned alive as a warning to the inhabitants of the other towns. Those present who knew that they had surrendered under the promise implied by the sign of peace said nothing, but allowed the horrible preparations to go on in silence. When the Indians saw this, and understood what their fate was to be, they seized pieces of the wood which had been brought for the barning, and attempted to defend themselves; but the soldiers attacked them with their swords, so that of about 100 who had thus sur- rendered, very few escaped. While this cruel massacre struck terror to the hearts of all who heard of it, yet in other ways it had far from the desired effect. The his- torian-of the expedition evidently appreciated this, as he says, "They made it known throughout all the country that the Spaniards did not regard the compacts to which they had sworn, which did us much harm in the end."
Just at this time the part of the army which had been left at Cibola under Arellano arrived, and never could re-inforcements have been more timely. Simultane- ously there commenced a very severe snow-storm, which continued with such violence for the space of two months that it was not possible to undertake any new enterprise. Coronado was specially anxious for peace, in order to pursue his journey, and therefore sent envoys to all the villages, promising pardon and good treatment ; but the Indians replied that they could put no trust in people who did not keep their word, and reminded them that they still kept Bigotes as a prisoner, and had broken faith with those who had surrendered. As soon as the
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weather permitted, hostilities were renewed, and finally the General determined to capture the city of Tiguex itself, as an example to the other towns. He therefore had scaling-ladders prepared, and made all the arrange- ments possible to insure success, and then with his whole army made a most vigorous assault. But the in- habitants were equally well prepared, and met the as- sailants with showers of arrows, and with great stones of such weight that they unhorsed many of the Span- iards. The advantage of position was altogether with the Indians, and in a short time Coronado found himself forced to retire with considerable loss. The siege con- tinued for no less than fifty days, the Spaniards show- ing great gallantry and daring, and the besieged no less courage and endurance. Many assaults were made, but always without success. The Indians lost more than 200 warriors in resisting the various attacks, and several of the most prominent Spaniards perished during the siege. The loss most felt by the latter was that of Captain Francisco de Obando, a distinguished soldier of great popularity among the troops, who was captured and carried alive within the walls. The Indians suffered greatly for want of water, their supply having been cut off, and though they sent their women and children away during a day of truce, yet in the end they found themselves compelled to abandon the place. This they attempted to do secretly at night, but were discovered by a sentinel, and the alarm being given, they were defeated with great slaughter. Those who escaped attempted to cross the river, but the water was so extremely cold that many were drowned ; and the few who succeeded in gaining the opposite bank were so benumbed and exhausted that they were easily capt- ured. While this siege was progressing, two of the Spanish captains, Quevara and Saldibar, had been sent to capture another village, and with very similar suc- cess ; for the inhabitants after a considerable time
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attempted to leave the place by stealth, but were over- taken and with scarcely an exception killed or taken prisoner ; the town being given up to pillage. These two captures occurred just at the end of the year 1541.
While the siege of Tiguex was in progress, Coronado made a trip to Cicuyé in order to regain the friendship of the people of that city. He took with him their cacique, who had been imprisoned for some time-at sight of whom the people greatly rejoiced. The General re-established this old official in his position, and promised that within a short time Bigotes should also be restored to them ; and then returned to Tiguex, leav- ing the people in a most friendly mood. As soon as the siege was terminated, he sent an officer also to Chia (the modern Pueblo of Cia or Zia), a large and populous town four leagues distant, whose people had before sent messengers to present their submission. As a compli- ment to this town, and a proof of confidence, he left in the custody of its people four bronze cannon, which were not in condition to do service. A small detach- ment of soldiers was also sent on an expedition to the north, to the province of Quirix, the inhabitants of which at first fled from fear ; but being re-assured, re- turned to their homes.
Meanwhile Coronado was impatiently awaiting the opening of the spring, so that he could proceed on his expedition and reach the wonderful land to the east, of which the Turk gave such glowing descriptions-and especially the great city of Quivira, which that vera- cious informant said abounded in gold and silver. The season, however, was an unusually severe one, the river (Puerco) remaining frozen for no less than four months, and the ice being thick enough to bear the weight of a horse; but the General did not dare attempt a passage until it had thawed. At length, on the 5th of May (1542), the army broke camp and started on its march trom Tiguex to Cicuyé. Coronado took with him the chief
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" Bigotes," and restored him to liberty at the latter town, amid the great rejoicings of the people, Indeed, so pleased were they at the restoration of their favorite that they furnished the whole Spanish army with a bountiful supply of provisions; and the two released prisoners, the cacique and the chief, presented to the General a young man named Xabe, who was a native of Quivira, to act as guide on the expedition. This young man confirmed the statements of the Turk as to the existence of gold and silver in that noted city, but said that the amount was far less than had been stated. But while Coronado seems to have felt implicit confidence in all the stories told by the Turk, many of the Spaniards had begun to distrust him very greatly ; and Cervantes, who had the care of him, even asserted that he knew him to have dealings with the devil. He himself, how- ever, never varied in his statements, nor allowed any expressions of incredulity to abate one iota from the extravagant estimates which he gave of the wealth of Quivira and the East.
After a brief stay at Cicuyé the army recommenced its march, and after crossing some mountains, came to a great river, which they called the River of Cicuyé, and which was unquestionably the Rio Grande, or Rio del Norte, of modern times. As this stream was too deep to be forded, the Spaniards were compelled to con- struct a bridge, which occupied four days; after which the army crossed to the easterly side. The exact lo- cality of this crossing cannot be determined now, but was probably in the vicinity of Santo Domingo, Peña Blanca, or Cochití; that is, a little south of west of Santa Fé. They now marched on over a rugged country, but without special adventures, for ten days; when they came to the camp of some Indians, of a nomadic tribe called Querechos, "who lived like Arabs," and whose tents were made of buffalo-skins. These showed no surprise or timidity at sight of the Spaniards, but cooly
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came out of their tents to ascertain who they were, and then going directly to the advance guard, asked to see the chief. When brought to Coronado, they showed great intelligence, and expressed themselves so clearly by signs that all that they wished to say could be under- stood as distinctly as if they had spoken, and there was no need of an interpreter. They reported that far to the east, the expedition would find a very large river, whose length was so great that one could follow its banks for ninety days without leaving an inhabited country. They added that the first village arrived at was named Haxa, and that the river was more than a league wide. They confirmed all that the Turk had told and promised; but as this was not until after they had had a conversation with that worthy, the incred- ulous among the Spaniards were not much affected thereby. The next morning these Indians broke up their camp and disappeared, carrying all that they pos- sessed on the backs of dogs, of which they had a multi- tude; but two days afterwards they were again met further out on the prairie.
The army had now reached the great plain east of the mountains. which was covered with such enormous droves of buffaloes that Castañeda says "the number was incredible." When attacked by the soldiers, they would fly in such crowds and confusion that one would fall over another, and thus very many were killed. At one place, while thus running from an attack by horse- men, they came to a great ravine, and not being able to stop in their course, with the multitude in the rear pushing them on, so many fell into the chasm that it was completely filled up, and formed a bridge for the remainder of the frightened herd to cross. The Spanish horsemen who were pursuing came upon this without observing it, and in a moment were entangled in the frenzied and struggling mass. A number of horses were disabled or lost, and the men with difficulty extri-
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cated themselves from this novel and unexpected danger.
The plains were perfectly flat and covered with grass, and of such a character that no permanent trail was left even by the passage of the whole army. Mon- uments of stone had to be raised at frequent intervals in order to guide stragglers, and even with these pre- cautions several soldiers were lost and never returned. The army kept on its march "in the same direction," says Castañeda, " as pursued since leaving Cicuyé-that is to say, towards the north-north-east," daily hoping to see some signs of the town of Haxa, which the Turk assured them was not far distant. Faith in the latter was now greatly diminished in the minds even of the most sanguine, especially as another Indian, named Sopete, who was also a native of the east, gave a very different and far less glowing account of the regions to be found in that direction. In order if possible to get some further information regarding the famous city of Quivira, which was now the special goal of the expe- dition, Don Rodrigo Maldonado was sent in advance to explore the country. While absent on this excursion, Maldonado came to a great ravine, in which he found a large encampment of Indians, who told him that they had been visited by Cabeza de Vaca and Dorantes on their journey some years before. They brought to Maldonado a great quantity of skins, and presented him with a tent " as large as a house," and many other things. Don Rodrigo sent a messenger to Coronado telling him of the circumstances and urging him to come that way. When the General had arrived and saw the vast quantity of skins, he determined to divide them equally among all the soldiers ; but a few having been taken in advance, the men feared that a fair divis- ion would not be made, and so made a rush to secure all that they could. A general scramble ensued, and in less than fifteen minutes not a skin remained of the
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whole store. At this the Indians were amazed, as they had supposed that these white men would simply bless the skins and then restore them, as Cabeza de Vaca had done, and the women and children cried over the loss bitterly.
The part of the plains where the army now was, was well populated; in one place, which they called Cona, they passed an almost continuous succession of cabins or tents for three days. Various fruit-trees and vines were found, including grapes and plums. They passed a number of great ravines or cañons, one of which was a league in width, a little stream running through a fertile valley between the walls. The natives here, with whom the Turk was prevented from communicat- ing, gave a very different account from his of the country beyond, so that Sopete gained in credit while the Turk lost. The Indians were very intelligent and treated their wives with special consideration. The women were well dressed, and wore a mantle or cloak of leather, with neatly ornamented sleeves, over their other clothing.
The army had now marched for thirty-seven days, making six or seven leagues a day ; the distance being measured by counting the steps. They calculated that from Tiguex to the last village in the valley of the cañon was 250 leagues. It is to be remembered, how- ever, that all the statements of distance made by the early explorers are greatly overestimated; and also that travelling as Coronado did, over mountains and across plains without any road to guide, the route was often circuitous and far longer than was necessary. As nearly as can be ascertained, the Spaniards were now marching near some of the branches of the Canadian, the large cañons seen corresponding with some of those in North-eastern New Mexico; and this agrees with the general direction of their march, and the ultimate ar- rival at Quivira. Provisions were beginning to be ex-
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hausted, with no prospect of any immediate opportunity to procure new supplies, and altogether the situation was so serious that the General called a council of war to determine the future course of the expedition. After considerable discussion it was determined that Coronado, with thirty horsemen and six soldiers on foot, should proceed with the search for Quivira, and that the rest of the army should return to Tiguex under Tristan de Arellano. This arrangement, however, was far from satisfactory to the soldiers, by whom the General was much beloved, and they besought him not to abandon them, declaring that they were ready to follow him to the ends of the earth, and die with him if necessary. He could not be moved however; but promised to let them know in a week's time whether they could rejoin him.
No delay was now made in setting out. The best mounted and most robust men were selected for the escort, and several Indian guides taken, besides Sopete and the Turk; the latter in chains, as punishment for his willful misrepresentation. They travelled as rapidly as was practicable, but no less than forty-eight days were occupied in crossing the plains to Quivira. "They never lacked for drink," Jaramillo tells us, "marching continually in the midst of cows (buffaloes), whose number constantly increased." Just before arriving at their journey's end they reached and crossed a great river, and Quivira itself seems to have consisted of a succession of towns and villages sit- uated on small streams which ran into this main river. But after all this long journey a great disappointment awaited them; for the inhabitants possessed neither gold nor silver, and indeed had scarcely any knowledge of metals. The Ruler wore on his breast a plate of cop- per, which he prized very highly ; but this was the ex- tent of the existence even of the more common metals. Naturally incensed at the utter falsehood of all the
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statements of the Turk, the Spaniards asked him as to his motive in thus deceiving them ; and he, seeing that there was nothing to be gained by further deception, acknowledged that he had done so at the request of the people of Cicuyé, who wished the strangers to be led astray on the great plains so that their horses would perish, and the soldiers be exhausted by long marches and fatigue, and that thus on their return they could easily be overcome and destroyed. On hearing this, and fearing that if at liberty the Turk might cause new trouble with the people of Quivira, the Spaniards strangled that imposter; to the great satisfaction, we are told, of Sopete.
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