USA > New York > A geographical history of the state of New York: embracing its history, government, physical features, climate, geology, mineralogy, botany, zoology, education, internal improvements, &c., with a separate map of each county > Part 3
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It consists of two distinct formations, viz., the Old Red sandstone overlying the Chemung sandstone, and the conglomerate strata, which are immediately beneath the coal bearing limestone of Pennsylvania. Between the layers of the former are interposed soft shales combined with mica.
The sandstone is generally of a deep red color, and imparts the same hue to the soil which covers it. It contains comparatively few fossils ; the scales and bones of some lizard-like fish have been dis- covered in it.
The minerals of this group are few, and of but little importance. Bog iron ore and calcareous spar are those most worthy of notice. The conglomerate affords fine grindstones, and has been used to some extent for millstones.
The soil is generally good; the sandstone decomposing readily under atmospheric influence, mingles with the vegetable mould and renders it fertile. Hemlock, beech, maple, elm, basswood, butternut, &c. are the principal timber trees ; the oak is seldom found in this formation.
The Red sandstone of the Catskill group is mostly confined to the vicinity of the Kaatsbergs ; occupying the county of Delaware, and portions of Sullivan, Ulster, Greene, Otsego, Chenango and Broome ; but the conglomerate extends westward, and caps the highest hills of the southwestern counties.
The Diluvial deposits skirt the shores of the St. Lawrence, Lake Champlain, and the Hudson, and compose the surface of the northern half of Long Island. They consist of a stiff blue clay beneath, a yellowish brown clay above this, and sand on the surface. The ma- rine shells, found in these clays, belonging in some instances to ex- tinct species, show that these deposits were made at an earlier period than those thrown down by rivers or oceans, in modern times. To this system belong also the boulders, scattered so widely over the state.
The Alluvial deposits, consisting of gravel, sand, loam, &c. thrown up by the waves, or deposited on the shores of lakes, and the banks of rivers, and still in the process of aggregation, constitute the last of the geological formations of the state. To these belong portions of the valleys of the rivers and lakes and the southern half of Long Island. The soil of both these classes of deposits is usually fertile.
The class of rocks known as trap and porphyry, do not, in this state, constitute a separate formation. They occur either in columnar masses like the Palisades, on the west bank of the Hudson, near New York, or in narrow veins or dikes, traversing rocks of an entirely different constitution. They are evidently the result of the action of subterra- nean fire. Porphyry is only found occupying a tract of a few miles in length, on Lake Champlain.
In connexion with the Geology of the state, the "Ridge road" is deserving of notice. This road consists of a bank of sand, gravel and
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GEOLOGY AND MINERALOGY.
other alluvial and diluvial deposits, varying in height from 100 to 150 feet, and extending along the whole southern coast of Lake Ontario, at a distance of six or eight miles from it, forming a natural highway. It is said that a somewhat similar ridge exists along the northern shore of the Lake.
That this ridge once, and at no very distant period, formed the south- ern shore of the lake, is proved, by the existence of sinall sand hil- locks, evidently heaped up by the action of the waves ; by the entire absence of Indian mounds and fortifications, on the north side of the ridge, and their frequent appearance, immediately south of it ; and above all, by the structure and composition of the ridge itself.
The deep channels, cut in the rocks, by many of the rivers of the state, are also a subject of geological interest. The Hudson, St. Law- rence, Oswego, and some of the northern streams, either have banks regularly sloping to the water's edge, or, if they occasionally pass through narrow and precipitous defiles, have not won for themselves a passage, by the action of their waters upon the rocky barrier which opposed them, but have availed themselves of a route opened by some convulsion of nature.
Such is not the case with the Mohawk, the Chenango, the Genesce, and the Niagara. Descending from elevated table lands, they have, by their ceaseless flow, hewn out a channel through the shales, slates and marly sand and limestones, in some instances 400 or 500 feet be- low the level of the surrounding country. The constant action of the waters upon these decomposing rocks has also caused the falls of Niagara to recede, as some geologists conjecture, a distance of five or six miles, and this recession is still in progress.
MINERALOGY. We have already adverted to the minerals, pecu- liar to the different formations, but a somewhat more particular de- scription of the mineral wealth of the state seems requisite, in a work like ours.
Among the useful metals, Iron is most abundant in New York. It is found in five forms.
1st. The Magnetic Oxide, most abundant in Essex, Clinton, Franklin, Warren, Orange and Putnam counties, but occurring also in considerable quantities in Lewis, St. Lawrence and Jefferson. This variety is adapted to the production of malleable iron and steel, and for this purpose is superior to any in the United States, and equal to most of the foreign ores. The quantity is immense, a single vein (the Sandford vein in Newcomb, Essex county,) being estimated by Prof. Emmons to contain ore sufficient to yield at least three mil- lions of tons, of malleable iron ; several other veins, in the same neigh- borhood, contain nearly as much more, and the mines of Orange coun- ty, though worked for nearly a century, are still very productive. This ore is confined to primary rocks.
2d. The Specular Oxide, found in St. Lawrence, Jefferson and Franklin counties, imbedded in sandstone. This variety is well adapted to castings. Though less abundant than the preceding, it is found in large quantities.
3d. The Argillaceous ore, called also bog iron ore, found in vari- ous parts of the state, evidently deposited by alluvial and diluvial action, in the clay or gravel. It is principally used for castings.
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STATE OF NEW YORK.
4th. The Hematitic ore, frequently occurring in crystals of fantas. tic and beautiful forms. This ore occurs extensively in Richmond, Orange, Ulster, Putnam, Dutchess, Columbia, Warren and Wayne counties. It is also found in smaller quantities in Rockland and Westchester. It usually makes its appearance in the lower lime- stones of the transition system. When combined with the magnetic oxide, it improves its quality.
5th. The Carburet of Iron, called also Black lead, Plumbago and graphite, occurs abundantly in Dutchess county, and in considerable quantities in Essex and Clinton counties.
Lead is found, in immense quantities, at Rossie and its vicinity, in St. Lawrence county, and less abundantly in the Shawangunk moun- tains, in Sullivan and Ulster, and in Dutchess, Columbia, Lewis and Monroe counties. It does not seem to be confined to any particular geological era, occurring in nearly all the formations.
Zinc and Copper occur in various parts of the state, but not in sufficient quantities to be of much practical value.
Arsenic has been discovered in Putnam county.
Manganese, in the form of manganese wad, occurs in Columbia, Lewis and Dutchess counties, and is used to some extent for bleach- ing. Manganesian garnet is found in New York county.
Barytes and Strontian are abundant in Schoharie and Jefferson, and probably exist in some of the other counties.
Alum, principally in the form of efflorescence, is found in several parts of the state.
The existence and value of the deposits of gypsum, and water lime, has already been noticed, in speaking of the Onondaga salt group.
Serpentine and its allied minerals, soapstone, talc, carbonate, hy- drate and sulphate of magnesia, (Epsom salts,) together with as- bestus and amianthus, occur abundantly in Putnam, Orange, West- chester, Jefferson and St. Lawrence, and in considerable quantities in Monroe, Orleans, Genesee, Albany, Cayuga, Essex, Rensselaer and Niagara counties.
Those minerals, which are only of interest to the mineralogist, are enumerated under the counties in, which they occur.
MINERAL SPRINGS. These are of various kinds.
1. Chalybeate Springs. The most celebrated of these, are those of Saratoga county, which are fully described in another part of the work. There are a few, but of no great strength or notoriety, in other parts of the state.
2. Sulphur Springs. These are widely disseminated. Those at Avon, in Livingston county, have attained the greatest celebrity. Those in the vicinity of Rochester, Monroe county, and Chittenango, Madison county, are perhaps next in importance. The State Geolo- gists report sulphur springs in twenty-eight counties of the state.
3. Brine Springs occur in every part of the Onondaga salt forma- tion, and are also found, though of less strength, in other parts of the state. They are supposed to be impregnated by deposits of rock salt, at some distance below the surface. Those in the towns of Salina and Montezuma are the most important and valuable.
4. Acid Springs, or those in which the water is strongly impreg- nated with sulphuric acid, are found in Genesee, Erie and Orleans counties.
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GEOLOGY AND MINERALOGY.
5. Petrifying Springs, so highly charged with carbonate of lime as to deposit it upon whatever the water falls, and thus give it a coat- ing of limestone, are found in Madison and Saratoga counties.
6. Oil Springs, the waters of which are covered with a thick pelli- cle of Petroleum, or mineral oil, are found in Cattarangus and Allega- ny counties.
7. Springs evolving Nitrogen Gas. The most celebrated of these are those of New Lebanon, in Columbia county, and of Hoosick, in Rensselaer county. There is also one, of some note, near Canoga, in Seneca county.
S. Springs evolving Carburetted Hydrogen, or inflammable gas. These abound in the neighborhood of Lake Erie, and the Niagara river. The village of Fredonia, and the light house at Barcelona, in Chautauque county, are illuminated by them. Springs of the same character are also found in Dutchess, Oneida and Monroe counties.
Marl, a valuable fertilizing agent, exists in vast beds in Madison, Monroe, Columbia, Dutchess, Greene, Onondaga, Ontario, Orange and Wayne counties, and in considerable abundance in Rensselaer, Wash ington, Saratoga, Albany, Schoharie, Herkimer, Cortland, Oneida, St. Lawrence, Niagara and Erie counties.
Peat is less widely distributed. It occurs, however, on Long Isl- and, and in Richmond, Rockland, Orange, Sullivan, Putnam, West- chester, Columbia, Clinton, Oneida and Cattaraugus counties. The attention of farmers should be directed to this, on account of its value, both for fuel, and as a manure.
The gneiss and granite of the primary region, as we have already remarked, form elegant and durable building materials. The Pots- dam sandstone, from its power of resisting atmospheric influence, and the facility with which it may be cut in any desired shape, is highly valued for building. The Chemung gray sandstone and the red sandstone of Rockland county are also prized by builders. The Medina sandstone is more liable to decomposition, but is used to some extent.
The limestone formations furnish a great number of varieties of marble, suitable not only for architectural purposes, but for the arts. The most celebrated ornamental varieties are the black marble of Glen's falls, which equals any of the foreign varieties ; the Chazy black marble, considered as fully equal to the best Irish ; the varie- gated marbles of St. Lawrence and Rockland counties ; the slate and dove colored of Otsego, Oneida and Onondaga; the birdseye of the Champlain group; and the white marble of Westchester, Dutchess, Columbia. Washington and St. Lawrence counties. The Singsing marble is largely employed, as a building stone, in New York city. The serpentine rocks, in several parts of the state, afford slabs, of suffi- cient size, to be used for the manufacture of furniture. The Utica slate, and some of the slate formations in the northern part of the state, furnish slates of excellent quality, both for roofing and writing.
The gray sandstones and conglomerate of the Champlain and Erie groups, furnish grindstones of superior quality, and from the Sha- wangunk grits, millstones have been manufactured, which compared well with the French buhrstone.
It will be seen, by the brief sketch we have given of the Geology and Mineralogy of the state of New York, that her mineral resources
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STATE OF NEW YORK.
are equal to her agricultural, commercial and manufacturing facili- ties. True, she does not possess coal, or so far as has yet been ascer- tained, the precious metals ; but the former is abundantly supplied by the neighboring states of Pennsylvania and Ohio; and the latter, paradoxical as it may seem, have never conduced to the wealth, or prosperity of any state, which has possessed them.
Her mines of iron, lead and plumbago ; her salt-springs and beds of water lime and gypsum ; and her quarries of granite, sandstone and marble are, to her citizens, a more valuable inheritance than the gold and silver mines of Mexico, and will confer upon them a greater and more lasting prosperity.
II. BOTANY.
IT would be entering into a far more elaborate view of the subject than the limits of this work permit, to trace out even an abstract of the vegetable wealth of New York. From its geographical po- sition, diversity of soil, surface, and climate; its holding a middle place between the north and south, nearly all the great features of the United States flora are here produced. Immense forests still oc- cupy the uncultivated regions north and west, consisting mainly of pine, oak and beech, while the chestnut, hickory and maple, with a host of other less numerous, but not less valuable trees, are scat- tered over its territory.
The mountain sides and woods are clothed with an undergrowth of shrubs; as the whortleberry, rhododendron and mountain laurel ; under whose shade, and in the open fields, flourish hundreds of more humble herbaceous plants, among which will be found many that are rare and curious, as well as of great beauty and utility.
Anemone, Ranunculus, and Violets, often before the snow has en- tirely disappeared, put forth their blossoms in every sheltered nook of wood and meadow. These, with the cowslip ( Caltha palustris), the woodbine (Aquilegia), bloodroot ( Sanguinaria), and many of that wide spread tribe, the Cruciferae, or crosslike plants, serve to mark the opening spring. As the season advances, nature assumes much gayer colors. The beautiful blue Lupine (Lupinus perennis), Desmodiums, and the wild Sensitive plant (Cassia nictitans), whose leaves close together, when touched by the hand, are frequent on sandy soils.
Common in our swamps and boggy ground, is the Side Saddle flower, or Hunter's cup ( Sarracenia), bearing a single, nodding, dark red flower, a wonder by itself, but more so, when viewed in connection with the singular structure of its leaves. These are not flat, as in other plants, but hollow, and somewhat pitcher shaped, arranged in a circle around the base of the stem, their open mouths turned upwards to catch the falling rains. At the orifice of each leaf is a broad lip, furnished with short stiff hairs pointing downwards, and forming a trap, for numerous insects, that seek the water, always contained in them. A luckless fly once entered, it is impossible for him to return ; and he is forced to go onwards, until dropping, he perishes in the water beneath. Of what use, in the economy of the plant, these dead insects are (the cup being often half filled with
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them) is not, as yet, well known; but possibly they serve in some degree as nutriment.
Another plant well worthy of notice for its elegance and exquisite fragrance, is the white Pond Lily (Nymphea odorata). The roots, which are rough and knotty, creep along the muddy bottoms of ponds and slow-flowing streams ; while the large round leaves, of a bright and glossy green, cover the water above, in many instances for acres, contrasting well with the pure white flowers. Like the primrose and wonderful four o'clock, which almost serve to mark the hour, Nymphæa expands its buds early in the morning, and whether the day be clear or cloudy, before noon, regularly closes, and sinks beneath the surface. The leaf stalks are long and flexile, varying with the depth of water, and forming, as every wandering school boy knows, a secure retreat for fish.
Spatter Dock, or Yellow Pond Lily (Nuphar advena), is common in every ditch, but an allied genus (Nelumbium), or Sacred Bean, is rare ; Big Sodus Bay, Lake Ontario, is the only known locality in the state.
In shallow water, along the Hudson, above the Highlands, and through the western counties, is the Vallisneria or Tape Grass, re- markable for the peculiar spiral form of its stems, which always per- mit the flower to float upon the surface whatever may be the rise of tide.
Besides those just mentioned, the more frequent plants of low grounds and margins of streams are the Iris, Sweet Flag, or Calamus root (Acorus calamus), Yellow Lily, (Lilium Canadense), Forget- me-not (Myosotis), whose bright blue flowers continue from early spring till frost, Arrow leaf ( Sagittaria), Cat-tail flag ( Typha pa- lustris), with numerous varieties of Rush (Juncus), and Sedges (Carex), the last sometimes eaten by cattle, for want of more nutri- tious food. Virgin's bower ( Clematis Virginiana), a handsome in- digenous vine creeping over bushes and fences is often cultivated for its quick growth and abundant blossoms.
In the Lobelia tribe, we have the Cardinal Flower (L. Cardinalis), noted for the splendor of its scarlet blossoms ; Indian Tobacco (L. Inflata), the grand panacea of the Thompsonians; the L. Syphi- litica, also used by them; Water Gladiole (L. Dortmanni), much less common than either of the preceding, and L. Nuttallii, con- fined to the sandy swamps of Long Island.
In the deep recesses of woods and swamps, the Arum and the Orchis tribes are met with. Of the former, Indian Turnip (Arum friphyllum), well known for its acrid root, and Water Arum (Calla palustris), are good examples.
The Orchids, from the strange forms and brilliant colors of their contorted flowers, are well worth the trouble it takes to cultivate them. Platanthera grandiflora, or tall purple Orchis, is one of the most beautiful, although Arethusa, Pogonia, our three spe- cies of Lady's Slipper (Cypripedium), and the graceful White Lady's Tress, are not less deserving a place in the garden.
Plants of the great group Composite, to which the Asters and Golden- rods belong, forming one ninthi of our entire flora, are characteristic of the autumnal vegetation. Some Asters are fine garden plants, but, like the whole class, chiefly interesting for their gorgeous appear-
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STATE OF NEW YORK.
ance. From the sweet scented golden-rod ( Solidago odora), a fra- grant volatile oil, sometimes used in medicine, is distilled. Yarrow (Achillea), Boneset (Eupatorium perfoliatum), Tangy ( Tanacetum vulgare), and some few others are medicinal; most of the order, however, are but weeds, as every farmer who has had his lands over- run with Canada thistle and pigweed, can testify. The seeds of the Sunflower ( Helianthus annuus) yield, under pressure, an oil similar in quality and uses to that of linseed. Jerusalem Artichokes are the tuberous roots of the Helianthus tuberosus. They are too watery to be used as food. Neither of the two last are natives of the state, but they are occasionally found in waste places near habitations,
Angelica, Sweet Cicely ( Osmorrhiza), Sanicle ( Sanicula), Cicuta (Cicuta maculata), types of the order of umbelliferous plants are well known ; Wild Carrot (Daucus carota), poisonous in its wild state, is, when cultivated, the esculent carrot of the garden.
Poison Hemlock (Conium maculatum), by a draught of which Socrates is related to have died, with some other introduced and native plants, as the Milkweed (Asclepias), Plantain, Canada Thistle, Poke weed ( Phytolacca decandra), Thorn Apple (Datura Stramo- nium), Oxeye Daisy (Chrysanthemum), and Dandelion (Leonto- don), belong to a class that might be named "wayside plants," from their commonly occupying a position beside the roads and fences.
Plantain (Plantago major) has been called by the Indians " white man's footstep," because it is found wherever he has placed his dwelling ; and with a faithfulness not equalled in the human race, is constantly in his path. The more it is trodden down the wider does it spread, and the more luxuriantly does it grow.
The Eglantine or Sweet Brier (Rosa Rubiginosa), such a general favorite with the old and young, is a member of the large family Rosaceæ, of which our state can boast many representatives. Among these are the Rose, seven or eight species of Blackberry ( Rubus), Strawberry (Fragaria), Fivefinger (Potentilla), (one species of which (P. tridentata) is a little Alpine plant found only on the summits of the mountains), Thornbush ( Cratægus), Service berry or Shad bush (Amelanchier), Wild Plum and lofty Wild Cherry. The last is used in cabinet work, being as dark and heavy as some infe- rior kinds of mahogany.
Of Labiata or the mint tribe, Spearmint, or Julep weed (Mentha Viridis), Peppermint (M. Piperita), Penny Royal, Catnep, Balm, (Melissa) and Mountain mint (Pycnanthemum incanum), are very generally known.
A few of the Nightshade tribe ( Solanaceae), are natives of the state, such as Bittersweet ( Solanum dulcamara), deadly Nightshade ( S. Nigrum), and Winter Cherry (Physalis), which are all of suspi- cious appearance, and reputed poisonous.
Buckwheat is one of the Polygonace@ ; and of the same order are the common Sorrel (Rumex acetosella), Water Dock (R. crispus), and Smart weed (Polygonum).
Shrubby plants are numerous ; many species are highly ornamental ; others, from their virtues, are admitted into the Pharmacopæas; others, again, are poisonous. Of this latter class are some of the species of Sumach (Rhus) ; the most virulent of these, is the Swamp Sumach (Rhus venenata), simple contact with which, or mere exposure to its
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BOTANY.
effluvium, being sufficient in many cases to cause a most painful erup- tion on the skin. Mercury, or Poison Oak, is less active than the pre- ceding, but sufficiently so, to cause all those who are easily affected by vegetable poisons to shun its neighborhood. The leaves of the com- mon Sumach (R. glubra), are used in the manufacture of morocco.
The large flowering Rose bay ( Rhododendron maximum) is a shrub from six to twelve feet in height, with broad and thick leaves, growing in tufts from the extremities of the branches; and large showy flowers, in dense terminal clusters. It is said to be the most beautiful flowering shrub in the United States, and is sometimes cultivated in lawns and door-yards.
The wild upright Honeysuckle (Azalea, or Rhododendron nudiflo- rum), and the broad leaved Laurel ( Kalmia latifolia) make the woods gay by the profusion of their purple blossoms. The dwarf Laurel (Kalmia angustifolia), known also by the names sheep-poison and lamb-kill, is a pretty little bush, but has a bad reputation, the leaves being said to poison sheep. The last two are common in the southern counties, while in the west the glaucous Kalmia takes their place.
The Elder ( Sambucus Canadensis) and the Hazel ( Corylus Amer- icanus), prized for its nuts, which, though sweeter, do not equal in size, the filbert of Europe, are to be seen in every coppice. Whortle- berries are the product of several species of Vaccinium. The ear- liest in the market is the dwarf blue. Whortleberry (V. Pennsylva- nica), growing in sandy woods, and on hill sides and summits of the mountains. The Bilberry (V. corymbosum) is frequent in swamps and wet shady woods. The agreeably acid Cranberry, an almost indispensable article of food, is the fruit of two species of Vaccinium, (V. oxycoccus and V. macrocarpon). The former abounds in the northern and western parts of the state, and the latter, which is the common American cranberry seen in the market, is most frequent in the south.
The banks of every stream and rivulet are fringed with the Willow (Salix), Alder (Alnus), and Spice wood (Laurus Benzoin). This last is a shrub easily recognized, by its smooth brittle branches and glossy foliage. The bark has an agreeably spicy taste; and a de- coction of the young twigs is often used, as a medicinal drink, in the spring of the year. In the moist thickets, conspicuous from its red fruit, is the Winter berry (Prinos), once used for the cure of fever and ague ; but, for this purpose, it is much inferior to the Dogwood ( Cor- nus florida), which possesses many of the peculiar properties of Pe- ruvian Bark.
Witch Hazel (Hamamelis Virginica) is, in the eyes of the super- stitious, a most notable shrub, because, in the moment of parting with its foliage, it puts forth a profusion of gaudy yellow blossoms, giving to November, the counterfeited appearance of spring.
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