USA > New York > A geographical history of the state of New York: embracing its history, government, physical features, climate, geology, mineralogy, botany, zoology, education, internal improvements, &c., with a separate map of each county > Part 34
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In 1835 the Holland Land Company sold out the lands, to- gether with the outstanding and expired contracts, to Trum- bull, Carey and others of Batavia. They had made a like sale of their lands in Genesee county, and the new company had compelled such of the settlers as were unable to complete the payments on their farms, to pay an additional sum per acre, as the price of forbearance. This exaction was known as the Genesee tariff. It soon became generally understood, that the principles of this tariff were to be applied to Chautauque county. Meetings were held by the citizens who felt themselves ag- grieved, and definite information demanded from the company, as to their intentions.
After some delay the company announced their determination to exact the principal and compound interest from all who would immediately pay for their lands, and to require 25 per cent. advance from those who asked for an extension of time in payment.
These exactions, at this period, would have deprived many of the settlers of their farms, and reduced them to ruin.
Upon learning the demands of the company, resolutions were passed by the citizens, denouncing their course and declaring their determination not to submit to it. On the sixth of Febru- ary, 1836, a mass of people, mostly from the interior towns, assembled at Barnhart's inn, about two miles from Mayville, about four o'clock in the afternoon, armed with axes, crow- bars, &c .; and having organized, proceeded to Mayville, about eight o'clock in the evening. They attacked the office of the Land Company, demolished the wood building, and finally
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forced open the stone vault, containing the company's books and papers, carried them to Barnhart's, and burned them in the highway.
From this time, till 1833, all intercourse between the Land Company and the settlers ceased. In that year a sale was ef- fected of the property, to Messrs. Duer, Morrison and Seward, (late governor of the state, ) and by them an office was opened in Westfield, and the outstanding claims adjusted to the satis- faction of all parties.
VILLAGES. MAYVILLE, the county seat, is a flourishing village, in the town of Chautauque. It was incorporated in 1830. It is beautifully situated, commanding a fine view of the lake. Its public buildings are neat and substantial.
The Mayville academy was incorporated in 1834, and is a well conducted institution. A steamboat plies between this vil- lage and Jamestown, daily, during the summer. Population 500.
Jamestown, situated on the outlet of Chautauque lake, in the town of' Ellicott, is the largest village in the county. It has a fine hydraulic power, which is extensively used in manufac- turing. Lumber, wooden ware, sash, lath, flour, cloth, &c., are manufactured here. The Jamestown academy was incor- ported in 1836, and is in a prosperous condition. This village was incorporated in 1827. Population 1700.
Fredonia is a beautiful village, in the town of Pomfret, four miles from Lake Erie. It has some trade, but is chiefly remark- able for its inflammable spring, which furnishes a sufficient quantity of gas to light the village brilliantly. It was incorpo- rated in 1829. The academy here, established in 1824, was the first in the county, and sustains a high reputation. Popula- tion 1000.
Westfield, in the town of the same name, incorporated in 1833, is situated on Chautauque creek, one and a half miles from Lake Erie. It is a thriving, busy village, and has a fine academy, incorporated in 1837. Population 1000.
Dunkirk, on Lake Erie, in the town of Pomfret, has been designated as the western terminus of the New York and Erie railroad. It is a village of some business. The United States government have expended about $80,000 in the im- provement of its harbor, which is now commodious for vessels drawing eight or nine feet water. It is open usually somewhat earlier than that of' Buffalo. Population 1000.
Fayette, at the mouth of Silver creek, in the town of Hano- ver, has a good steamboat landing, and some trade. Pop. 700.
Portland has a good harbor. Barce ona has a light house,. illuminated with the gas evolved from an inflammable spring near it.
XLI. CORTLAND COUNTY.
Square Miles, 500. Organized, 1808.
Population, 25,087. Valuation, 1845, $2,318,208.
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TOWNS.
1. Homer, 1794.
2. Solon, 1798.
3. Virgil, 1804.
4. Cincinnatus, 1804.
5. Preble, 1808.
6. Truxton, 1808.
7. Scott, 1815.
S. Freetown, 1818.
9. Marathon, 1818.
10. Willett, 1818.
11. Cortlandville, 1829.
12. Hartford, 1845.
13. Lapeer, 1845.
Rivers. Q. Tioughnioga. a. Cold Creek. h. Otselic. Villages. CORTLAND. Homer.
BOUNDARIES. North by Onondaga county ; East by Madison and Chenango; South by Broome and Tioga; and West by Tompkins and Cayuga counties.
THE SURFACE is elevated, and gently sloping to the south,
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forming a part of the high central section of the state. Its northern boundary lies on the watershed, or dividing ridge be- tween the waters flowing into Lake Ontario, and the tributa- ries of the Susquehanna river. The broad valleys of the streams, and the rounded and fertile hills, give the surface an agreeably diversified aspect.
RIVERS. The Tioughnioga, rising near its northern boundary, with its tributaries, waters nearly the whole county. The Ot- selic, its main branch, drains the southeastern section. Both streams are navigable for small boats, when swollen by the heavy rains of spring and autumn.
CLIMATE. Healthy and equable. From the elevation of its surface, the winters are long and much snow falls.
GEOLOGY AND MINERALS. Slate is the basis rock of the county. On the north this is covered with Onondaga limestone, or the limestone and slate of the Helderberg series. On the south and east the Chemung sandstone and shale are the surface rocks.
The minerals of the county are salt, bog iron ore, and marl. There are also some sulphuretted hydrogen springs.
SOIL AND VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS. The soil is generally a gravelly loam, intermingled with the disintegrated lime and slate, and is quite fertile, yielding good crops of grass and grain. The timber is chiefly oak, maple, beech, basswood, butternut, elm, and chestnut. Groves of pine and hemlock are found in the southern part of the county.
PURSUITS. Agriculture is the principal pursuit of the inhab- itants. Much attention is paid to the rearing of cattle; consid- erable quantities of grain are also raised. The products of the dairy are large.
Manufactures are increasing in importance in the county. The principal articles are flour, lumber, cotton and woollen goods, leather and potash. .
STAPLE PRODUCTIONS. Butter, cheese, wool, oats, corn, and flax. Considerable quantities of wheat, barley, buckwheat, po- tatoes, and pork are also produced.
SCHOOLS. The whole number of district schools in the county is 180. In 1846, these were taught, on an average, seven months, and 9,273 children received instruction during the year at an expense of $9470. The district school libraries contained 15,197 volumes.
There are in the county twenty-eight private schools, with 443 pupils, and two academies with 233 scholars.
RELIGIOUS DENOMINATIONS. Baptists, Methodists, Presbyte- rians, Congregationalists, and Episcopalians. There are in the
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county forty-five churches, and fifty-four clergymen of all de- nominations.
HISTORY. Cortland county comprises a portion of the Military Tract, or lands given by the state of New York to her Revolu- tionary soldiers. It was principally settled by emigrants from the eastern states, who removed here after the Revolution. Homer, the oldest town, was organized in 1794.
The county received its name from General Peter Van Cort- landt, who was a large landholder here. It was taken from Onondaga in 1808.
VILLAGES. CORTLAND, in the town of Cortlandville, is the largest village, and the seat of justice for the county. It is pleasantly situated on the north branch of the Tioughnioga, and has a number of fine public buildings. The Cortland female seminary is a flourishing institution.
The private residences of the citizens are neat, and many of them elegant. Population 1500.
Homer, in the town of the sa ne name, is a beautiful and thriving village on the Tioughnioga. It has an old and flour- ishing academy of high reputation, with six teachers, and de- partments for both sexes. In 1846, a large and enthusiastic meeting of its alumni and friends was held, attended with ap- propriate exercises.
The village is one of the most beautiful in central New York. It is considerably engaged in manufactures. The churches, four in number, and the academy, occupy a public square six acres in extent. Population 1400.
Truxton and Virgil, in the towns of the same names, are villages of some importance. The former has some manufac- tures.
XLII. FRANKLIN COUNTY.
Square miles, 1557. Organized, 1808.
Population, 18,692. Valuation, 1845, $1,584,970.
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TOWNS.
1. Malone, 1805.
9. Duane, 1828.
2. Chateaugay, 1805.
10. Westville, 1829.
3. Constable, 1807.
11. Belmont, 1833.
4. Dickinson, 1808.
12. Bombay, 1833.
5. Bangor, 1812.
6. Fort Covington, 1813.
7. Moira, 1827.
8. Brandon, 1828.
Mountains. GG. Chateaugay. g. Seward. h. Adirondack.
Rivers. a. Deer. b. Salmon. c. Trout, d. Chateaugay. e. St. Regis. f. Racket. j. Saranac.
Lakes. i. Upper Saranac. 1. Lower Saranac. k. Tupper.
Forts. Covington.
Villages. MALONE. Fort Covington.
BOUNDARIES. North by Canada East; East by Clinton and Essex counties ; south by Essex and Hamilton counties, and West by St. Lawrence county.
SURFACE. Elevated and mountainous, in the southern and southeastern sections, where the Chateaugay range crosses it ; elsewhere it is undulating or level. Mount Seward, and the Adirondack group, are peaks of this range. Mount Seward has never been ascended, but its height is computed at about 5000 feet.
Numerous lakes are formed in the valleys of the mountain ranges.
RIVERS. The principal rivers are Salmon, Trout, Chateau- gay, St. Regis, Deer, Racket, and Saranac.
LAKES. Upper and Lower Saranac, Tupper, and numerous others of less importance.
CLIMATE. The high latitude, and elevated surface of this county render the climate rigorous. The winters are long and severe.
GEOLOGY AND MINERALS. The mountainous district is prin- cipally of the primitive formation, and is composed of hypers- thene, granite and gneiss. The two latter, indeed, form the surface rocks of a large part of the county. The transition for- mation, however, extends over the northern slope of the county, and is mainly composed of the Potsdam sandstone, very fine specimens of which are quarried in Malone, Chateaugay, Moira, and Bangor. In the northeast corner of Franklin township, the calciferous sand rock makes its appearance.
The principal minerals are magnetic iron ore, found in Franklin, Duane, and Malone townships, purple scapolite, green pyroxene, graphite in six sided tables, bog iron ore, tufa, peat, and massive pyrites.
SOIL AND VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS. The soil of the north-
13. Franklin, 1838.
14. Burke, 1843.
15. Harrietstown, 1843.
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ern towns is probably equal in fertility to any in the state. The southern townships are less productive. It is mainly a sandy loam, occasionally mixed with clay, and much of it encumbered with stone.
It is not well adapted to wheat, but grass, oats, barley, corn, and the esculent roots, thrive luxuriantly.
The forests, which cover the central and southern portions, are very dense, and consist of white and yellow pine, hemlock, oak, beech, birch, basswood, elm, and white cedar.
PURSUITS. Agriculture is the employment of the greater part of the inhabitants, and their attention is particularly directed to the raising of cattle, and the cultivation of summer crops. The preparation of lumber for market, is also the occupation of a considerable number of the citizens of the county. There is some commerce o. the Salmon river, the only navigable stream, and a few mines. The iron ores already mentioned will eventu- ally furnish employment to considerable numbers.
STAPLES. Potatoes, oats, wheat, corn, butter and wool.
SCHOOLS. In 1846, there were 120 district schools in the county, in which 6190 scholars were taught. The schools were maintained an average period of seven months, and $6,041 ex- pended for tuition. The district libraries contained 10,230 volumes.
There were also seven select schools, with seventy-four pupils, and two acade- mies, with 113 students.
RELIGIOUS DENOMINATIONS. Presbyterians, Roman Catho- lics, Baptists, Universalists, Episcopalians, and Congregation- alists. There are twenty churches, and twenty-nine ministers of all denominations.
HISTORY. This county was the home of the St. Regis tribe of Indians, who, under the direction of the French, were so often engaged in hostile incursions upon the colonies of New England and New York, in the latter part of the seventeenth and commencement of the eighteenth centuries. The tribe have still a reservation of eleven miles in length and three in breadth, in the county, lying in the towns of Bombay and Fort Covington.
A daughter of Rev. John Williams, of Deerfield, Massachu- setts, who, with his family, was taken captive by this tribe in 1704, remained with the Indians, after her father's return, mar- ried one of the chiefs, and one of her descendants was a few years since chief of the tribe.
The first settlers were Canadians, who located at French Mills, now Fort Covington about the year 1800.
In April, 1804, Messrs. Benjamin Roberts, of Winchester,
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Vermont, William Bailey, and Nathan Beman, commenced a settlement at Chateaugay.
Soon after, Mr. Nathan Wood, of Vermont, settled in Ma- lone. Constable was settled about the same time.
The first standard captured from the enemy, in the late war with Great Britain, was taken at Bombay, by Major G. D. Young, a native of Connecticut, on the 22d of October, 1812.
Major Young was commandant of a detachment of the Troy volunteers stationed at French Mills, (now Fort Covington,) and having learned that a party of the enemy had arrived at the village of St. Regis, and that more were shortly expected, resolved to surprise them before they could be reinforced. He accordingly marched a detachment in the night to the vicinity of the village, surrounded the enemy, and captured forty pris- oners, with their arms, equipments, &c., one stand of colors, and two batteaux, without the loss of a single man.
A skirmish took place on the 25th of October, 1813, at Cha- teaugay, between the British light troops and Indians, and a detachment of American troops, under General Izard, in which the latter were repulsed with the loss of fifty men.
In February, 1814, a detachment of British and Indians, num- bering about 2300 men, made an incursion into Malone, and penetrated as far as Chateaugay Four Corners, when, hear- ing of the approach of American troops, they retreated in great confusion, suffering severely in their flight, from a storm of snow and hail. Upwards of 200 men deserted during this retreat.
Fort Covington, in this county, was erected during the last war, and a part of the army wintered here in 1813-14.
VILLAGES. MALONE, in the town of the same name, is the seat of justice for the county. It is situated on both sides of the Salmon river, which here furnishes a large amount of water power, and is surrounded by a fertile country. In the vicinity are extensive veins of valuable iron ore. The village has several manufactories of cotton goods, leather, scythes, pails, &c. The Franklin academy, located here, is in a flourishing condition. Population 1000.
Fort Covington, located at the head of navigation, on Sal- mon river, is a flourishing village, largely employed in the lum- ber trade, and has an incorporated academy and several manu- factories. The fort here was an important military post during the war. The village was then known as the "French Mills." It received its present name in honor of General Cov- ington, who was slain at the battle of Williamsburgh, Novem- ber 13th, 1813. Population 1000.
XLIII. NIAGARA COUNTY.
Square miles, 481. Organized, 1808.
Population, 34,550. Valuation, 1845, $4,926,089.
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TOWNS.
1. Cambria, 1808.
7. Wilson, 1818.
2. Hartland, 1812.
8. Somerset, 1823.
3. Niagara, 1512.
9. Lockport, 1824.
4. Porter, 1812.
10. Newfane, 1824.
5. Lewiston, 1813.
11. Pendleton, 1827.
6. Royalton, 1817.
12. Wheatfield, 1829.
Rivers, &c. M. Niagara River. a. Eighteen Mile Creek. b. John- son's. c. Tuscarora. f. Howel's. r. Tonawanda.
Falls. SS. Niagara Falls.
Lakes. J. Lake Ontario.
Battle Fields. Niagara.
Forts. Niagara. Schlosser.
Villages. LOCKPORT. Lewiston. Niagara Falls Village. Youngs- town.
BOUNDARIES. North by Lake Ontario ; East by Orleans and Genesee counties ; South by Erie county, and West by Niagara river.
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SURFACE. Like most of the other counties lying on Lake On- tario, Niagara county is divided by the Ridge Road and the mountain ridge, into three terraces, of which the two northern- most rise gradually from the lake shore to the mountain ridge; while the southern declines almost imperceptibly toward Tona- wanda creek. The surface is therefore generally quite level, having no more than sufficient inequality to secure its effectual drainage.
RIVERS. The county is well watered. Besides Niagara riv- er, which forms its western boundary, the principal streams are Tonawanda creek, which divides it from Erie county, Tusca- rora, Eighteen Mile, Johnson's and Howel's creeks, falling into Lake Ontario ; and Cayuga creek, a tributary of Niagara river.
FALLS. This county, conjointly with Niagara district, Can- ada West, includes the world renowned cataract of Niagara.
To portray fully the wonders of this stupendous waterfall, exceeds the powers of the human mind, and requires a language commensurate with its grandeur and magnificence. We shall therefore only attempt to describe the different elements which combine to render it the most extraordinary of natural wonders, and leave it to the imagination of the reader to group them into one harmonious whole, although nothing but an actual view of the falls, from several points, can give any adequate conception of its surpassing beauty and sublimity.
For a distance of three-fourths of a mile above the falls, the river, over two miles in breadth, hurries forward in a succession of rapids, whose roar, combined with that of the cataract, may sometimes be heard for a distance of twenty miles.
The descent accomplished by these rapids, is between fifty and sixty feet, and their imposing grandeur strikes the beholder with admiration and awe. As the waters approach the fall, the width of the river is compressed to about half a mile. Here it suddenly turns to the eastward. making almost a right angle in its course, and, immediately below the falls, is contracted to a width of only seventy- six rods. In consequence of this bend, the view of the cataract from the Ameri- can side is more in profile than that on the Canada side, where a short distance below the falls a front view is presented, giving the visitor at a glance an idea of its vast magnificence.
Just above the falls, in the middle of the river, lies Goat or Iris Island, half a mile long, and about one-fourth of a mile wide. containing seventy-five acres. This has been connected with several adjacent small islands, by bridges, and these again with the American shore. Iris island is heavily timbered, and has a num- ber of fine walks, and a large garden.
It extends over the cataract, and presents a wall of perpendicular rock, sepa- rating the crescent or Canadian fall, from the American portion of the cataract. This latter is again divided by Luna island, a small islet. There are thus three distinct cascades, one on the Canadian, and two on the American side.
The lower fall, or that nearest the American shore, is more than 300 yards in width, and 164 feet in height. The central fall, extending from Luna to Iris isl- and, has the same height, but is only twenty yards in breadth. Both have a gentle curve in their outline.
From the comparative shallowness of the waters on the American side, they are constantly dashed into foam, ere they reach the precipice.
On the Canadian side of Iris island, is the great Horse Shoe or Crescent fall, over which pour seven-eights of the volume of water composing this mighty stream. It is about 700 yards in width, and 158 feet in height. The deep green of its billows is only relieved by the crests of white foam which surmount them.
To the spectator, standing on Iris island, the cataract is veiled in a cloud of almost
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impenetrable mist, and all attempts to explore its apparently unfathomable depths seem futile. But in the clear sunlight, this mist is the source of new surprise and admiration ; the rainbow, "the crescent of the abyss," with its everchanging hues, spans the impenetrable cloud, and adds new beauty to the scene. The view from Table rock, on the Canadian side, is more distinct, and gives the spectator a better comparative view of the three falls.
Terrapin Bridge, 300 feet from Goat island, extends ten feet over the falls, and near its end, in the water, and upon the edge of the precipice, a stone tower, forty-five feet high, has been erected. The view of the fall from the top of this tower is very grand, but requires some steadiness of nerve.
The banks of the river below the precipice constitute an almost perpendicular wall, nearly 200 feet in height, requiring artificial means for descending to the water's edge. For this purpose, three staircases have been erected. The first is on the main land, on the American side, giving access to the ferry. Recently a railway, moved by hydraulic power, has been constructed, to facilitate the de- scent. The river is crossed in safety in a row boat, propelled by a single person.
A second staircase was erected in 1829, on the perpendicular face of Iris isl- and, at the expense of the late Nicholas Biddle. A rude but strong flight of com- inon steps leads down a steep declivity of about forty feet, to the head of the Biddle stair case, which is in the form of a hexagon, enclosing triangular steps, that wind spirally round a large and solid oaken shaft. The descent accomplished by these is about 80 feet. Paths lead from the foot of these stairs, to the river brink, to the verge of the British fall, and to the Central fall, and the Cave of the Winds behind it.
The third staircase is on the Canadian side, and conducts the visitor under the overhanging ledge of Table rock. Here he will find a path leading under the Great Crescent fall, by which. if he chooses to venture, he may pass, for a dis- tance of about 150 feet, behind this vast mass of waters.
The depth of the river, a short distance below the cataract, is 250 feet. The quantity of water poured over the falls has been variously estimated. Dr. Dwight computed it at more than 100 millions of tons per hour.
About three miles below the falls, is a whirlpool, produced by the projection of a rocky promontory, against which the waters of the river have, for ages, hurled their angry billows in vain. In this whirlpool, timber and the dead bodies of men or animals, which have been precipitated over the cataract, are often retained for days, and sometimes for weeks, ere they pass the narrow outlet. About a mile below this is a deep ravine, where formerly there was another whirlpool, but the waters, after centuries of unceasing action, wrought out for themselves a more quiet passage. This gloomy dell was, some seventy-five or eighty years since, the scene of a fearful tragedy, which will be related in the historical sketch of the county. It is called "the devil's hole."
LAKES. Lake Ontario forms the northern boundary of the county.
CANALS. The Erie canal passes through the southeastern and southern pr ons of the county.
RAILROADS. The Buffalo and Niagara falls railroad connects Niagara falls with the lines of railroad from Albany. There is also a railroad connecting Lockport and Niagara falls with a branch extending to Lewiston.
CLIMATE. Owing to the vicinity of the lakes, the climate is mild and equable. It is considered healthful. Here, as in Erie county, fruits flourish in greater perfection, and vegetation is earlier than in the same parallels in the eastern counties.
GEOLOGY AND MINERALS. The Medina sandstone is the basis rock of the county, and makes its appearance near the Lake
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shore; above this appears the Clinton group of limestones ; the Niagara group forms the surface rock of the second terrace, and abounds in fossils ; the Onondaga salt group appears as the sur- face rock of the third terrace, and contains as usual large quan- tities of gypsum, and numerous brine springs.
Bog iron ore is found in various parts of the county ; copper, in minute quan- tities, has been discovered near Lockport; sulphate of strontian, calcareous spar, anhydrous sulphate of lime, selenite, pearl spar, and occasionally fluor spar, and sulphuret of zinc, are found at Lockport. Sulphur springs are numerous ; some of them have considerable reputation. The brine springs are too weak to be of much practical value. There is also a chalybeate spring, and one emitting car- buretted hydrogen gas, in sufficient quantity to maintain a steady flame. Shell marl is found in the swamps.
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