USA > New York > Onondaga County > Syracuse > From a forest to a city : personal reminiscences of Syracuse, N. Y. > Part 2
Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).
Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Part 5 | Part 6 | Part 7 | Part 8 | Part 9 | Part 10 | Part 11 | Part 12 | Part 13
FROM A FOREST
every citizen, and all would have the same reply, "I do not know." On this subject I have an item of inter- est that came to me by the merest accident. In taking a walk one Sunday morning in June 1855, I passed Mr. John Wilkinson's on James Street. His garden was ex- tensive, bounded on the north by James, and on the south by Hawley street and surrounded by a high, tight board fence. The wide gates happened to be open. I could not pass so beautiful a sight without stopping to take in the prospec .. The fragrance of the blooming flowers, the pebbled walks, winding here and there :mong the deep green shrubbery, trailing vines, some in flower, others in their rich foilage clinging to arches that were formed over the walk. beyond & rustic moss covered bridge, near which were rockeries encircled with wild flowers, and artificial mounds covered with a wall clipped turf, and bordered with flowers and foliage plants. Near the centre of th's extensive garden of beauty, more prominent than all its other attractions, clothed in a thick growth of English ivy, was standing twenty feet of the trunk of a forest tree that had been a monarch here long before Father LeMoine discovered our salt fountains, or the supposed Spiniard chiseled the date 1520 on the stone at Pompey Hill. While thus feasting on this scene, of beauty Mr. Wilkinson's voice was heard, he was seated in a woodbine covered summer-house with news- papers and magazines by his side, he said : " walk in sir ! walk in : may garten is extensive; you are at liberty to walk through it." After taking, a half hour stroll, I re- turned to the summer house thanking Mr. Wilkinson for
19
TO A CITY.
giving me so much pleasure, and remarking that I had just finished reading his namesake, Sir. J. G. Wilkinson's Popular Account of the Ancient Egyptians, that I was indebted to him for a description of a garden that was in fall bloom on the Nile four thousand years ago, and then perfectly represented and carved in detail on the owner's tomb. He said "you interest me, will you give a des- cription, as I have not seen the book you refer to." This I was able to do; he then remarked that he always took great pleasure in reading well written accounts of ancient cities now in ruins. That owing to this love of antiquity our young city was christened after one of them. That soon after leaving the Academy at Onondaga Valley he was in New York, and while there called at the house of a friend, not finding him at home, and deciding to wait an hour or two, he was seated in his friend's library. He took up an English publication which contained a lengthy poem on the subject, "Syricuse," his eyes had not glanced over more than a dozen lines before he became deeply interested. It was a prize poem by Edward Stanley, and had won the chancellor's prize at the University of Oxford. The poem commenced with a description of the island of Ortygia long before the foun- dations of the ancient city of Syracuse were laid. He then gave the myth of the beautiful nymph Arethusa, who while bathing in the river was seen by the hunter Alpheus, who berne enamored with her but, the nymph not re- pending to his ardent love fed to the island of Ortygia at Syracuse. When about to be overtaken by Aipheus, the nymph prayed to the godess Diana for protection, who
20
FROM A FOREST
changed her into a fountain which ever after was called Arethusa. Being deeply interested in the poem Mr. Wilkinson began to study the history of Syracuse, and the geography of its surroundings. He found a wonderful similarity between the celebrated fountain and our own lake, more careful study revealed the closer resemblance between the two, they were nearly the same size, on the margin of both were springs of salt and fresh water ming- ling together. It was believed by many that there was an underground passage from some distant salt deposit which supplied our salt springs. In like manner there was said to be an underground passage that led to the foun- tain at ancient Syracuse. The old historian Strabo as- serted that a cup thrown in a river many miles away would float underground and make its appearance in this celebrated fountain ; and what was most astonishing, our lake as well as the fountain might be said to have a clas- sical history.
F. Creuxieus published in Paris in 1656 ten books, in which our lake and the fresh and salt water springs were described as most wonderful. W. Greenhalgh in a jour- ney from Albany to "ye Indians westward, begun May 20th, 1677 and ended July ye 14th, following," described the same. These ancient writers after describing our lake as an object of great beauty, say that "what is the most wonderful is that springs of salt and fresh water each bubble up from the same hill." Mr. Wilkinson said to complete the similarity between the two p.l .. ces, there was a town on the north of the Sicilian Syracuse, named Salina. As before stated it was necessary to find a new
1
ANCIENT SYRACUSE. RUINS OF THE AMPHITHEATRE IN THE FOREGROUND. (Observe the similarity to our Lake.)
21
TO A CITY.
name for our Postoffice, accordingly a committee was ap- pointed from the few inhabitants, consisting of Judge Forman, Rufus Stanton, Mr. Wilkinson, and two others. The proposed plan was that cach should select a name and from those submitted choose the one that seemed best adapted. Judge Forman speaking first, said he had recently selected a name which was his choice above all others. He had believed the town would bear the name of Corinth as long as its Grecian namesake, but its short existence demonstrated the uncertainty of human ex- pectations, he would therefore decline to propose another name. Mr. Wilkinson then proposed the name of Syra- cuse, and gave for his reasons what is above stated This name was selected by a unanimous vote and gave general satisfaction among the inhabitants. So much for the name. I have given this statement in some detail, as I think it will be new to many readers. I was recently in conversation with quite an old resident, of average intelli- gence, who remarked that Syracuse was an Indian name. This ignorance in regard to the name, which is to some extent common, will justify my efforts. Every good citi- zen should take pride in our town and have some knowl- edge of its Sicilian namesake. It is probable that very few of our citizens will ever overlook the plains where ancient Syracuse once stood; her beauty and glory is not there; it is only to be found on the historian's page. It was in its greatest prosperity 320 years B. C. I am sad when I think I can never overlook, from its surrounding Heights, the plain where it once stood. If mighty names and events crowd upon the mind when we simply read
22
FROM A FOREST
the name Syracuse, what vivid historical associations must be awakened by the soil itself. It was extolled by Cicero as the most beautiful city in the Grecian world; it was the scene of some of the greatest personages and events of antiquity: of Gelon's patriotism, of Harmo- crate's valor, and Dyonysius' genius. It baffled Carth- age; it crushed and captured the proudest armada equip- ped by Athens, in the plenitude of her power, and after opposing the science of Archimedes to the strength of Rome, it was lost only by the drunkenness of its guards during the night of Diana's festival. Its fate stirred compassion even in the heart of its rugged conqueror. When Marcellus looked down, at morning, from the heights on the whole expanse of Syracuse, the sight of its palaces and temples glittering in the sun, of its harbors so lately impregnable, and its fleets so lately invincible, the recollections of its ancient glory, the knowledge of its impending fate, and the importance of his own victory, impressed him with such emotions that he burst into tears. After a lapse of more than two thousand years, if our citizens could look down upon it from the same spot, they would see the scene of desolation complete. The beautiful groves, palaces and temples, have all disap- peared, and the arid rock alone remains where the ser- pents bask, and the solitary wild flower is unbent by human footsteps. The great events in the life of our namesake may fail to interest the reader. I have care- fully delineated the laying of the foundation of our city, which has nearly completed its first century of life. The first hundred pioneers who built hoines of logs
23
TO A CITY.
and slabs, like their humble dwellings, have long since mingled with the dust of the past. The plot of ground once devoted to their graves, and the simple marble slabs inscribed "Sacred to the memory of the first settlers of Syracuse," have been removed by unfeeling hearts and hands, and railroad depots now occupy the ground where thousands daily arrive and depart, who know not, and care not, whose graves are under their feet. "Let the dead bury their dead," is the motto now as of yore. We are living in a fast age, that has but little interest in historic shanties, or things of the past, or anything else that has not some direct bearing on dollars or cents. This is to be regretted, for we cannot have a firm grip on the future unless we know something of the past. By the development of mankind to a higher civilization, our city, unlike Syracuse of old, is no longer in fear of invad- ing foes from without; our danger lies in foes from within -greedy and dishonest officials who have more regard for their own pockets than for the welfare of the city. These are foes that are sapping the life and prosperity of our city. It is to be hoped that the same advancement as in the arts and sciences, which have so wonderfully marked the present age, will be seen in the near future, in the development of a higher manhood, a growing love for right and justice. When greed and dishonesty shall be unknown in municipal governments, when our city shall be free from intemperance, vice and injustice, then we shill le on the road to a true greatness and lasting prosperity.
24
FROM A FOREST
THE OLD RED MILL.
In 1804 Mr. Walton purchased from the State 250 acres, the now central portion of Syracuse. There was a stipu- lation requiring him to build a mill and a public house on the tract purchased; accordingly he located the mill in 1805 on the bank of the creek where the High School building now stands. It will thus be seen that this part of West Genesee street was the original center of life and activity in Syracuse. It was here in this mill that the first wheel made its first revolution to give motion and power to machinery so essential to the life of any town. Around this point the primitive dwellings of the first set- tlers were placed. This was the locality of the first church and school-house, and all was due to the infiu- ence of the mill. As years went by it became venerable with age and was known by the name of "the old red mill," and it has been the theme of many an interesting page of history. The first settlers of Syracuse reverenced the old mill, and all were capable of telling some story of interest connected with it. One little incident regarding the old mill came to my knowledge a short time ago, and I think would be read with interest. The story was told me by an old lady now living on one of our most beauti- ful streets and in an elegant mansion. She said that more than sixty years ago she went to this mill carrying on her back a bushel of corn and returned home carrying the meal in the same ininner; and, the old lidy a.lded. "it did not hurt me either." Now in these later days. when some of her grand-children object to doing some
£
THE OLD RED MILL.
7
25
TO A CITY.
little task thinking it beneath the dignity of their position, she relates to them the story of the old red mill and the bushel of corn. I think we may all draw a lesson and a moral from the story.
In 1807 a freshet swept away the first dam; the second was built where West Water street crosses the creek, and a raceway was constructed from that point to the mill. On this raceway there was a mill to convert flaxseed into linseed oil, also a sawmill where in IS25 good pine lum- ber could be purchased for three or four dollars, and hemlock at two or three dollars a thousand. Trade was not active at these prices. Fred Horner was sawyer in that year; he was a man of great strength and liked his business, and could boast of receiving a call from George Washington to inspect a mill that he was running in New Jersey. I lived within a few rods of one of Mr. Horner's sons, and he never tired of telling stories of the old red mill and the finding of Indian relics in the vicinity. When it was decided to remove the mill dam, to improve the health of the town, the Syracuse Company employed Mr. Youngs to dig a raceway connecting with the channel of West Water street from the weigh-lock, and in doing so he removed an old pine stump under the center of which he found the skeleton of an Indian and a hatchet, knife and other trinkets, also a jar of paint which was still fresh. By the antiquity of the designs of these articles it was quite clear that they must have been brought here two hundred years can by the Jesuits, a religious order of the Catholic church, founded by Ignatius Loyola in Paris in 1534, with the object of carrying their religion
26
FROM A FOREST
over the whole earth. A mission was established in Quebec in 1633, and from this mission for fifty years missionaries were sent to nearly all of the Indian tribes.
Our first school-house was built on Church street; it was a hip roof with a high ceiling inside, and for several years all the religious meetings in the place were held here. The first sermon preached by a Baptist clergyman, also Unitarian, Universalist, and I think Presbyterian, were preached in this school-house. In February, 1821, was organized the First Baptist society with a member- ship of thirteen persons. The Baptist Seminary at Ham- ilton offered to provide for preaching every Sunday, in the school-house, on condition that these interested should furnish a horse and saddle which should become the property of the Seminary. Mr. James B. Moore had just bought a fine horse in exchange for sixty bushels of salt at one dollar per bushel. He was notified one day that this little religious society had voted that his horse had a providential call for this purpose; he at once added his vote, and the horse was sent to Hamilton. It was thought that Mr. Moore was a good generous Christian, for he was a strong Methodist and never a member of the Baptist society. This unsectarian and Christian act was characteristic of Mr. Moore: he spent what money he had in building up the place; he was a good citizen, de- voted to his wife and family, and for his good deeds was granted to him the prayer recorded in Tobit viii. ; : " Therefore men shelly ordain that we may become and. together." Mr. Moore and his good wife lived to see more than eighty years, and both died from old age on
27
TO A CITY.
the same day and were buried side by side in one grave. In June, 1823, the society secured the Rev. N. I. Gilbert for pastor, and the next year laid the foundation for their church where the Universalist church now stands. In those days there was no ceremony at the laying of the corner stone. Mr. Bicknel and David Saf- ford were the carpenters. When the sills were placed on the walls and a rough floor laid, the people in the little village were notified that their services were needed to raise the timbers, and the most of the population were on hand to help and to see. Frame buildings were not raised in those days as now-a stick at a time, but in sections called bents. After these sections had all been put together ready to raise, the people had assembled, and the men ready with their pike-poles in their hands, the Rev. Mr. Gilbert stepped forward on some timbers and, raising his hand, made a most earnest prayer, -that God would bless their effort, and that great good might come from it; that the society might grow in numbers and usefulness; that God would be with their pastors in years to come, and that nothing but orthodox religion might ever be preached within its hallowed walls. At the word Amen the signal was given and the first section rose up in its place, and a shout from the people fol- lowed. I might add that the prayer was answered during that generation. In 1348 it became a theatre and was used as such for some years, where the gospel had been preiched so long. In iSoy it was purchased again for church purposes by the Universalist society.
28
FROM A FOREST
THE EMPIRE HOUSE.
The Empire corner is a historical place in Syracuse, as it was the first building lot sold, and was conveyed by Mr. Walton in 1805 to Henry Bogardus for the sum of $300. It contained one-half acre. There was a stipula- tion binding the purchaser to build a public house within a reasonable length of time. Accordingly, in 1866, Mr. Bogardus built the hotel. It was thirty-five by forty-five feet in size and two stories high, and was the first frame house built in the town. It is spoken of as the old Man- sion House yet it never was an old building, as its age was but thirty-eight years when it was removed. It probably received this title on account of its shabby appearance. Both Mr. Clark and Mr. Clayton in their histories of the county are mistaken in the time the house was removed to give place for the present building. The Empire was commenced in 1844 and the stores were occupied in 1845. McCarthy & Co. first commenced business in Syracuse here, also Hutchinson & Williams, Tomlinson & Sharp, the Gages, Phillips, Teffts and many others. These stores in size and finish greatly surpassed any thing here- tofore seen in Syracuse. They soon became popular and a great rivalry sprung up between the occupants as to who should draw the greatest trade. Extravagant advertising was resorted to. Mr. Stillwell occupied a boot and shoe store and for a sign and advertisement placed in front of his store an immense boot, ten feet high and six feet in Bromference. Hutchinson & Willian. tvertised their store by poetry composed by Mr. Williams, who claimed to have a machine that would grind out the verses when-
1
29
TO A CITY.
ever "Seth " turned the crank. Mr. Williams has since been known by the name of "Seth," and many think it is his true name. As "Seth " is still well known I will give a sample of his poetry that appeared in a Syracuse paper over forty-five years ago.
The " Great Empire " with lofty spire Towers towards the skies, Her wide spread wings, to the breeze she flings Her name o'er earth it flies.
Her spacious halls and corridors The strongest nerve will charm, In richest taste and elegance She's carrying off the palm.
Hold on "Seth." --
The " Tall Pine" of Lysander won't thank you for puffing the " Empire." Give us now something for the " Red Sign " and Hutchinson & Williams the Great Reg- ulators in Dry Goods.
Screw up your machine to No. 8 and try again .- Turn.
Fall has come : Winter is coming, To the " Red Sign " all are running, Some for a cloak, some for a vest, (For they sell the cheapest and best,) They dress the young, they dress the old, They protect their shivering limbs from cold, Their cloths are good, the colors true, Blue, black, brown and indigo blue, Ottoman diess goods, rich and rare, Walk in ladies ! view with care The Royal Purples. The blue and green Such beautiful hues are rarely seen.
30
FROM A FOREST
Come, Farmers, come, for now's the day
Harness up your horses gay, For your wheat is thrashed and milled, Your pocket now with cash is filled,
So hurry up your fine bay team, Crack the whip, put on the steam You'll soon see the bright " Red Sign,"
It's time to stop, haul in the line, Boys dismount. The number 's EIGHT, The cheapest store in any State.
Mr. Tomlinson, the builder and owner of the " Em- pire," was killed by the cars at Little Falls in 184S. The "Empire" was sold on a foreclosure, and Mr. Taylor, of New Jersey, became the purchaser. In 1850 Mr. Voorhees became the owner, and after a few years it was sold to Mr. White who still holds it. The advent of Jenny Lind in New York created the most unbounded enthusiasm throughout the country, and when it was announced that the sale of tickets to the Lind concert in Syracuse would take place at the office of the Empire House, the streets in front of the office were filled with the most excited crowd that was ever seen in Syracuse, long before the hour arrived for the sale of tickets. There had been no preparations made to facilitate the rapid sale of the tickets, and when the doors were opened the excited and determined mass of people rushed in as though they had been shot from a gun and crowded one upon another with such force that the less strong were in imminent peril of being crushed to death, Some faiced and others cried most piteously for help. This class were raised upon the heads and shoulders of the crowd, and in this way
3I
TO A CITY.
were helped out nearly dead from fright and exhaustion. John Hern, a slender fellow, was thrown with great force against the side lights of a door, severing the arteries in his wrist. and he came struggling out head first over the shoulders of the solid mass of human beings, with his arterial blood spurting out at every heart throb. None but those possessed of a giant's strength attempted to enter the crowd: Twenty-five dollars were freely offered as the reward for procuring a ticket.
The corner of Salina and Church streets is the location of the first circus grounds, and it was here that the first circus and horse show that was ever held in Syracuse took place. This circus in 1825 wis so well attended by the Indians and white people that Mr. Van Patten built a circus house half way between Salina street and Willow street bridge. About 1840 Wm A Robinson bought this corner and opened the first temperance hotel in Syracuse-The Onondaga House. Tais property is still owned by his children. The old circus house was converted into stables :) accommodate the patrons of the new temper- ance house.
THE SYRACUSE HOUSE AND VICINITY.
In the great family of mankind there is a wide diversity of tastes and opinions. Some, like Alexander Selkirk, can fid no charms in solitude, while others seem to delight in spending their lives in seclusion. There are evidences this some of this class, more than a hundred years ago. .andget free the forests of var county. Ove of these wis erected near the corner of Genesee and Montgomery streets, when and by whom is not known;
32
FROM A FOREST
but it is well known that Calvin Jackson lived in this cabin in ISoo, and his son Alvin was born there. He was supposed to be the first white child born within the limits of Syracuse. Rufus Stanton was one of the first farmers in Syracuse. In 1811 he had his first acre of wheat where the Oswego canal crosses North Salina street, and when the canal was dug it divided this acre into two triangular pieces. In 1814 Forman, Wilson & Co. came into pos- session of the Walton tract, and the following year a twenty acre lot (a portion of which became the site of the Syra- cuse House) was so far reclaimed from the forest that Rufus Stanton grew a fine crop of grain on it, when it was seeded for pasture and surrounded with a rail fence. It extended no farther east than Warren street, but the heavy timber had been removed as far back as Mont- gomery street and allowed the rays of the setting sun to fall on the site of the old log house where Jackson had lived, which had so many years been in the forest shade. As the block on which the Syracuse House is located has for many years been considered the center of the town, a description of the first primitive buildings which surrounded it might be interesting. The buildings on the east side of Salina street, south from the Syracuse House, in the year 1829, were nearly all one story and a half frame buildings. First from the Syracuse House was Olinsted's grocery; second, Esq. Kasson's justice's office; third, Green's tailor shop: fourth, Archie Kasson's dwelling house; fifth, a small wo alen building standis on the corner lot, which was rented to a Mr. Quick in 1829 for a shoe-shop at the extravagant rent of six shil-
KNAPFTEN :
THE ORIGINAL SYRACUSE HOUSE IN 1820,
33
TO A CITY.
lings per week. On the next block south there were three small frame buildings and the little white church built by the Presbyterians. The next block, on the corner of Fayette and Salina streets, was the residence of Zophar Adams, who manufactured brick further down on the op- posite side of the street. Next south of Mr. Adams' house, lived the widow Stewart, and beyond her, in 1829, lived Olmsted Quick and John Husenfrats, which completed the list of houses on the east side of Salina street.
It is not claimed that this cut of the original Syracuse House is correct in every detail, but it is correct in show- ing the style of architecture and giving the general appearance of the first building. It is from a description furnished by Booth & Elliott, who were the first builders here in the earlier days of Syracuse, and also corresponds to the description furnished by Timothy Cheney, who was employed with Daniel Elliott to remodel it and change its appearance in every particular. It is doubt- ful if there is a person now living who has a distinct recollection of the first building. Its foundation walls were laid nearly seventy years ago, and there was then no other building near it. The log house in the distance shows the location where Calvin Jackson lived in 18co. In 1823 there was a boom in Syracuse, and the previous year Judge Forman completed a system of drainage and low- ered the lake, which, to a great extent, removed the cause of "pestilence and death" that had been so prevalent here as to ch ise the place to be stand by all leur the most hardy. It 1823-24 the canal was nearly completed an I salt was in good demand, in some cases bringing one dollar per bushel,
Need help finding more records? Try our genealogical records directory which has more than 1 million sources to help you more easily locate the available records.