From a forest to a city : personal reminiscences of Syracuse, N. Y., Part 9

Author: Hand, Marcus Christian
Publication date: 1889
Publisher: Syracuse, N.Y. : Masters & Stone
Number of Pages: 440


USA > New York > Onondaga County > Syracuse > From a forest to a city : personal reminiscences of Syracuse, N. Y. > Part 9


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sion of her senses and physical vitality, and can hear the chirping of her young, and can see her danger, and seems to possess all her powers; yet she has no power to flee from the magnetic monster who lies enambushed for- . his prey. And when I look at the physiognomy of the two primary actors in this tragedy, and read the unmis- takable evidence of character which nature has written. upon the face of every human being, I can but regard him as the serpent and her as his victim. She was once a virtuous and happy wife and mother; but now, alus ! widowed, childless, vitiated, mocked of women and men. an outcast from Christian society, with nothing before her but the cold face of the hard world, and the howling poverty of a vagabond. Can you conceive of any human situation so pitiless, and yet so pitable ? And how the picture of a dead husband coffined between his dead children must mock her despair ! If God hath no mercy on the outcast, and will drive her from His presence, then where will she find shelter? If any being in our world deserves sympathy it is such an one." I will follow Mr. Thayer's remarks no further, but will say that an in- structive lesson is connected with this occurrence if we reflect how such tragedies are passed upon in different periods of the worlds history, To-day everyone will say. that there is nothing to justify in the father's course. every one would condemn his act. Two thousand years ago a similar tragedy was considered an exalted virtue. All students of Roman history will call to mind the des. Perate choice of two evils, which was left for Virgin! : s. when the Roman governor, Appius Claudius, a tyrant


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and libertine, desired to possess his daughter the beauti- ful Virginia. No power nor persuasion could resist his determination. As he called for the delivering up of his victim, the father requested the privilege of one parting embrace, and while the hot tears ran down his face drew a dagger, plunging it into her breast, exclaiming, "O! my child ! thus only can I preserve thy virtue and give thee freedom." Then turning to the tyrant on the throne he said, "By this innocent blood O! Claudius, I devote thy head to the eternal Gods."


THE HERMIT.


Syracuse has been the home of many eccentric men, and but few have excelled a Scotchman by the name of Boyd. The year in which he first made his appearance I do not think it possible now to determine. He located in that portion of the village bounded by the Erie and Oswego canals and Foot street (now James) which, at that time, was a mere wagon road through the woods and but little travelled. He removed the thick growth of cedar from an acre of ground, surrounded it with a high board fence and built a little cabin in the centre, where he dwelt entirely alone and lived on what he could grow in his garden. He never left this inclosure unless it was for some necessaries of life. He made no acquaintances and lived as much in seclusion as possible His constant attention to his little plot of ground developed a produc- tive garden, in which he raised the choicest vegetables, for which, at that time, he found ready sale at the locks. to supply the passing boatmen. While marketing his


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products the inquisitive propensities of many would duce them to interrogate him as to his history and : he could content himself to live so lonely a life. IT seemed to annoy him much, and as far as possible .. avoided this class, choosing to deal with those who art. him no questions. This trait of character was observe by one dealer, and, as the vegetables brought to mars were always of fine quality and attractively arranged, ! asked him no questions other than related to the br .... ness between them. By this course he gained the conf . dence of the Scotchman, which in time resulted in :.: a degree of confidence and friendship, and he was allow : : to see his garden, which he found, in many particular -. as odd and peculiar as its owner. His little cabin ve only of sufficient height for him to stand erect. A gra: trellis was constructed on each side of the walk nearly :. the street, over which the vines were trimmed and traine : with the greatest care. There were several circular fone: beds surrounding the little cabin, separated by nartos walks which were bordered with different varieties of ferns, and each flower bed contained but one variety of flowers. The effect was a great profusion of a few varie- ties, which indicated that these few were favorites. Trail- ing vines completely covered the cabin, and during the summer season it might have been considered an idea. home for a hermit. As the years went by many rumor- gained circulation as to his history and his motives for living in solitude. His deportment and tidy appear: a indicated that he had commenced life with fair prospect. and it was believed that some disappointment, such as


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unrequited love, had induced him to no longer pursue the usual paths of life. Others believed that the love of money was a mania with him, that he was a miser, whose only thought was the worship of the money he had and could accumulate. This opinion gained ground and he was called the old miser. This belief induced a half dozen towpath ruffians to scale the high board fence one night and rob the Scotchman of his supposed treasures. They were poorly paid for the disgraceful outrage upon an inoffensive man, when they searched his cabin and found only a few dollars; if he had more it was carefully secreted. The most disgraceful part of this scandalous affair was the personal violence they perpetrated on the old man to compel him to produce more money. When they left him he was nearly dead from fright and the blows they had dealt him. His non-appearance the next morning as usual led his friend to make an investigation of the cause, when he was found in his cabin prostrated from the ill-treatment he had received from the robbers. This unlooked-for event in his life discouraged him, caus- ing him to feel that an innocent and harmless old man had no safety in his own cabin. His being so cruelly treated deprived him of all confidence in mankind, and he had no longer a desire to live in a world where such outrages were perpetrated. The consoling words of his friend, who sympathized with him and expressed his de- sire to remove him to his comfortable home and care for him until his recovery, so gained the Scotchman's confi- dence that he broke down in his long-kept purpose to die with his life's history unrevealed, and accordingly


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related why he absented himself from society and lived a hermit's life. Time has drawn his curtain of more than half a hundred years between us and this event, and it is probable that there are less than half a dozen citizens who even have a dim recollection of this eccentric char- acter. The version of the Scotchman's story was this : From his childhood days his life had been devoted to the worship of one he had early learned to love, when they, in their youthful innocence, whiled away the hours of ecstasy known only to childhood. The object of his devotion was so frail a flower she early left him for a bet- ter world, and ever after she filled his thoughts with love for her. Though dead, he felt she was with him still. He resolved to leave Scotland and find some se- cluded place in America where he would be free from all his friends and early associations, and spend his life in one uninterrupted thought of his young friend. Accord- ingly he located his little home isolated from all com- panions, except what mother nature gave him. The most singular part of the story was the firmness of his belief that his love was ever with him, although the world con- sidered him as living a lonely hermit's life; yet he felt the object of his affections was ever with him in his gar- den walks. The favorite flowers which she loved in their Scotland home, grew in the same beauty around his little cabin. His life had been one of complete happiness, and no power could convince him that she was not with him like a veritable presence. He felt his great mistake had been in locating in so public a place. The year of the


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cholera epidemic in Syracuse, the hermit was found dead in his bed.


THE STREETS OF SYRACUSE.


Probably no department of our village and city munic- ipal affairs has been so poorly managed as the matter of the streets of Syracuse. Culpable negligence and unjusti- fiable indifference have existed. It is now more than sixty years since Syracuse was chartered a village, and still we are vastly behind our neighboring cities in the condition of our streets. Few cities have had to contend with more natural disadvantages than Syracuse. Much of the cen- tral portion of the city was originally a swamp and when the water was drained off, the ground was still soft and porous, so much so that every foot of Genesee street to the higher lands on the east were first paved with logs of wood to keep the horses and wagons from miring in the soft soil. On nearly all the other streets the same diffi- culties were encountered. Salina and Warren streets were no exceptions, and in the early days were " hard roads to travel." As an illustration of what these streets have been it is said that at one time it was impossible to make the trip from Onondaga Valley to Salina over the road that is now Salina street before June as the road- way made of brush and logs was under water until that time, and in consequence those making the trip between those two points were obliged to follow the hills in the eastern part of the town around to Salina. While work- men were engaged in excavating for the foundations for the Washington Block on Salina street they could not find a solid foundation in consequence of the filling up


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of this locality. When at the depth of fourteen feet be- low the surface they came to the original soil where they found the log road above mentioned in a good state of preservation. Recently while excavating in front of a block on Warren street several feet below the surface, a row of fence posts were uncovered standing in line, which at one time was a fence in front of a house when the surface was several feet lower than now. Clinton street, a part of which at one time was subject to inundations from the creek has been raised several feet. West Onon- daga street, when first laid out, was nearly impassable for loaded teams in consequence of quicksand even at so recent a date as 1847. After a heavy rain a horse that had been driven by the side of the road near the junction of Onondaga and Seymour streets became mired in the quicksand and in his struggles to free himself was soon so deep in the sand that his head only remained in sight. He was shovelled out with much difficulty. Onondaga street, which was originally in such a bad condition, was made one of the best streets in the town by the employ- ment of two men with their horses and carts who spent six months in constant daily labor drawing cinders from Mickles' furnace, then located at the foot of the hill at the junction of the roads leading to Onondaga Hill and Onondaga Valley, and covering the entire street to a sufficient depth to make a solid foundation. For years there was no better road in the town than the " cinder road." In 1835 the first cobble stone pavements were introduced. In that year the trustees of the village called for an election to decide by vote whether Salina


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street should be paved from the north line of Fayette street to the south side of the canal, also to determine by vote whether Salina street should be paved from the north side of the canal to Church street and the south side of Clinton Square from the west side of Salina street to Clinton street, and at the same time to determine by vote whether Genesee street from Warren street to Centre square (now Fayette Park) should be paved. At that date it was the custom of the people to vote upon the question of paving the several streets that were contem- plated, and those only were paved that had the requisite number of votes. At this election it was determined to pave only Salina street from Fayette to Church streets. The contract was let to parties from Utica, N. Y., as at that time there were no pavers here. Soon after Hanover square was paved, as during the year 1834-35 it was filled up to its present level with the great amount of earth furnished from the excavations for the cellars of the Franklin buildings, built in 1834, together with the broken brick and debris from the ruins of the stores from Salina to Warren streets, that were burned during the great fire of 1834. Perhaps no better illustration can be made of the great amount of filling in this square and streets in its immediate vicinity than by referring to Van Husen's blacksmith shop, located on the corner of Warren and Genesee street. When it was built the sills were about ten inches above the ground, and in the last few years of its existence it was necessary to go down a steep grade to enter the shop. Warren street remained but little more than a country road until July 25th, 1837,


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when an ordinance was passed to plough out and pave the gutters on Warren and Montgomery streets between Jefferson and Genesee streets. North Warren street was opened in 1832. Foot street (now James) was ploughed and turnpiked in 1828. In that year notices were posted which read something as follows: "For the purpose of improving the road on Foot street and for the purpose of doing it with the best economy, any person needing earth for filling up lots or other purposes may take it from Foot street hill provided it be done in such a man- ner as to leave the road bed level, and in all cases to be taken between the stakes on each side of the road. By order of the Board." August 9th, 1830, the following ordinance was published : "The Trustees of the Village deem it necessary to order side-walks on the several streets hereinafter specified, viz .: On Salina street from the Yellow brook (between Fayette and Jefferson streets) to the canal. From the north side of Salina street to the side cut, (Oswego canal) from that point on the east side of the street to the Court House. Also, from the bridge at the red mill on Genesee street to Montgomery street and from that point along the south side of Genesee street to Centre Square, and on all sides of the public squares. All of the above ordered walks must be laid in such a manner as to leave six feet for cellarways." At one time brick side-walks were the best in use. In front of the better buildings brick eight inches square were sometimes used, but more frequently common four by right brick. Unless great care was taken in laying the walk, they would, after heavy rains yield to the pressure


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when walked upon. The more recent tar or cement walk is an improvement for a cheap walk.


GROVES AND FOREST TREES.


Of the many beautiful groves within the limits of Syracuse in its early days only a few can be mentioned. A most attractive one of noble pine trees situated near Clinton street has been described. On the block north of Fayette Park was a grove of tall trees which was valuable for building timber. In former times hewed timber was a necessity, as most of the saw-mills were capable of sawing only short timber. Many of the first houses built on West Genesee street were from timber cut from this lot. Henry Gifford cut the trees himself from this place for his first house, which he built on West Genesee street. When this remnant of the forest was cleared away, one of the first buildings erected on Fay- ette Park was on the lot occupied by the late John Crouse. Previous to the year of 1825, John Daniels purchased this lot and built a public house, designed to accommodate the transient travel on the great thorough- fare of the Genesee turnpike. Mr. Daniels sold to Mr. Luce who continued the same business for several years. Harmon W. Van Buren and several of the first settlers in Syracuse made this house their home until they pur- chased homes of their own. I was informed by some of them, that the first reading room ever established in Syracuse was in this house. Should the question te asked by whom the first nucleus of a circulating library was formed, none would think of going farther back than the so called Parish Library, which was formed and


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,


sustained by the united energies of Palmer Dyer, Rector of St. Paul's Church, and L. H. Redfield, yet the one above referred to antedates this by many years. Not- withstanding that at first the rougher elements of society were largely dominant in Syracuse and Salina, there were a few men of culture who had moved in the higher circles of society before coming to make homes among a rude class who had no taste for refinement nor literature. Dr. Kirkpatrick, who came here in 1806, and was for many years superintendent of the Salt Springs, was one of that number, who, feeling the need of the society to which he . had long been accustomed, was the first in organizing the best element here into a circle which though small, was of a refined, intellectual and literary character. This little circle was composed of not more than eight or ten members, of which Dr. Kirkpatrick and Harvey Baldwin, then a young man, were the most prominent. The Doctor had long been a regular sub- scriber for the most popular English and Scotch reviews, and to him was entrusted the office of supplying the standard works, and it is said that to him belongs the credit of bringing to Syracuse the first copy of Bulwer Lytton's novel, Falkland, first published in 1827. Mr. Luce furnished an ample room free of charge, and his accomplished daughter had charge of the reading matter. Once a month was held a social meeting for consultation and conversation on literary subjects, and on these occa- sions the popular landlord furnished a collation which made these entertainments very enjoyable as well as profit- able. Moses D. Burnet was among the first to locate here,


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and he selected his home in a beautiful grove of walnut trees located on a rise of ground on James street. The usual way of reaching his house at that time was to follow the tow-path of the canal until opposite his house, where there was a road cut through the woods to the house. There was also a grove of walnut trees left standing on the corner of Lock and Pearl street, where St. John's Church is now. This walnut grove consisted of small straight trees several inches in diameter; all the under- brush was cleared away and the trees made a beautiful appearance, and were much prized by the owner, who was a very eccentric character by the name of Sackett, and then lived on North Salina street on the lot now occupied by Parshall's hardware store. Mr. Sackett was a man of wealth and a large owner of land, most of which he had procured by the purchase of land-claims from soldiers, some of whom after locating their claims were so desirous of raising a little money that they sold out to Sackett for fifty cents an acre, in some instances regret- ting it very much thereafter. Notwithstanding Sackett's well-to-do condition, he was very slovenly in his appear- ance, and it was said that sometimes during the hot weather he would wear an old sun bonnet to keep the sun from shining in his face. The house he lived in was unlike any that had ever been seen before and was ac- counted for in this way : He had employed a contractor to build him a house, which was to be finished by a stated time. Sackett waited until he was out of patience for the contractor to commence the job, but seeing no evidence of his intention to perform his contract, agreed


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with another party to do the work which was to be cu menced at once. When the frame was up and pars .. enclosed, and before the expiration of the time agres upon with the first contractor, he made his appearan .: with all the work, ready to be put up and completed within the time specified. Mr. Sackett was great ; astonished and chagrined, and on inquiry, by the co: - tractor, as to where he would have his house placed, M. Sackett after a few moments hesitation directed it to ! . attached to the rear of the one that was then being built. where ever afterwards it made a most comical appear. ance. On account of his eccentricities he was made the subject of many jokes, one of which I will relate. One night a party of men took possession of his beautifu! grove and with their saws had felled every tree before the dawn of day. This party was supposed to have been. headed by one who was smarting with regret over the sale of some land claim for only a fraction of its value. The largest grove was located south of James street and contained thirty-five acres, the trees were tall and very uniform in size. Public out-of-door meetings were some- times held in this grove, such as Fourth of July gather- ings, the last one occurred in 1845, when the Bedell Bros. who kept a hotel on Salina street north of where the Malcolm Block is now, prepared a dinner in the grove at which two or three hundred could be seated at the same time. Soon after Green street was laid out through its centre, and those who were fond of a shady retreat located here for their homes. That some of these beau- tiful groves could not have been preserved for a park


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seems a misfortune, none of these wood covered plots would have been so desirable for this purpose as Prospect Hill; it seemed designed by nature for a park. Its height, shape and location, were all the most favorable. Originally it was forty or fifty feet higher than now, and clothed with fine specimens of the forest. Terraces of sufficient width for drives and walks could have been constructed from base to summit. One-i.elf of what is to be expended on Burnet Park would have transformed Prospect Hill with its original wooded heights into a beautiful terraced mound. When our first Mayor, Harvey Baldwin, delivered his speech on what should be in- cluded within the limits of the city, and was indulging in the flights of fancy he encircled our lake "with a wide and splendid avenue, bordered with continued villas, shady groves and hanging gardens." Had he proposed Prospect Hill as the site of the hanging garden instead of the lake shore, he would have been more practical. This little mountain located near the center of our city, designed by nature to be a "thing of beauty and joy forever," with the waving branches of tall forest trees a hundred feet above our streets, would have filled every citizen with pride, when he reflected that no other city had a similar attraction so near its center. Large sums of money have been used, by different parties, to bring Prospect Hill to its present level. Many feet of its summit fill the depths of the old mill pond, and the soil for many feet below the green turf of Armory Park was taken from this hill top. Different companies have labored with large forces of men and horses to fill up the


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valley between the two hills, with the vain hope predicted by many, that the Capitol of the State would be locate: here. Millions of dollars might have been saved to ti. State if this had been accomplished. After several un- successful attempts to obtain some legislative action on the removal of the Capitol to a more central part of t .... State, the most sanguine gave up all hope of ever seeing the State Capitol located on Prospect Hill. It wa, mapped out into streets and lots, and the map filed :: the County Clerk's Office in 1856. Few villages int. more admiration for fine specimens of the native fores: than Syracuse. Only a few of these trees can i : mentioned. Genesee street was justly entitled to the credit of the finest. One pine tree near the side- walk opposite the High School building, was probably the best specimen of the giants of the forest,-it was a little over twelve feet in circumference and of a grea: height. The means to convert it into timber were near a: hand, as a saw mill stood within its shadow. It must have been reverenced for its greatness, as it was allowed to stand so long in a public place. An equally fine speci- men of the oak was standing near the side-walk in front of where the Grand Opera House is built. A fine wal- nut tree was standing in front of the present location of Wieting Opera House. At that time Mr. Judson's jewel- ry store was near by, and to this tree was nailed the first jeweler's sign that appeared in Syracuse. A walny! tree swung its wide, extended branches to the bres. . near the corner of james and Pearl strets. This tr.e was made the subject of a comical joke. When North


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Salina street was lined with cooper shops, there was great competition and jealousy existing between the coopers of the village and those of Cicero, the latter having the ad- vantage of cheaper materials near at hand, and for this reason could undersell the coopers of Syracuse. At that time there was a row of salt blocks on the banks of the Oswego canal which were furnished with barrels from Cicero. One evening several long loads of barrels from that place were left standing by the side of the road to be unloaded the next morning at the blocks near by. The jealous and irritated coopers of Salina street all turn- ed out at a late hour of the night; some of them cut the branches of this walnut tree in such a manner, that a barrel with a part of the head knocked in could be hung on the branches. The loads of barrels were all run un- der the tree, one load being left for a scaffold, which was covered with coopers handing up the barrels to those in the tree. " In a short time most of the many branches upheld a barrel. The wagons were returned empty from whence they were taken, and the next day the street was filled with spectators to see the most comical sight that could be imagined. It was claimed that this was the first time a walnut tree was ever known to bear a crop of salt barrels. Those citizens who have spent three score or more years of life in Syracuse, can reflect on the many changes they have seen,-industries springing into activ- ity only to disappear. Forty or fifty years ago the roads leading to Syracuse were lined with wagons thirty or forty feet in length, with high racks filled with salt barrels to be filled and sent to all parts of the country. For




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