USA > New York > Onondaga County > Syracuse > From a forest to a city : personal reminiscences of Syracuse, N. Y. > Part 5
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on the corner of Washington and Salina streets. Brick structures then took their place, which were very un- attractive in appearance, and if they could be seen for a day as they appeared about the year 1840, the street would be filled with citizens to observe so great a curios- ity in the way of architecture. There were four build- ings three stories in height, the fronts of the stores con- taining three doors, one over the other on each story with a window each side of the door; the doors made by nailing narrow strips together on an angle and were without a panel or moulding. Over the upper door was heavy timber projecting out over the walk with a chain and pulley for raising and lowering merchandise from the side walk to the lofts above; these chains, with boxes and barrels over the side-walk, made an unsightly appear- ance, and it sometimes happened that the chains with their huge hooks would be left hanging so low that it would painfully remind some elevated head of the fact when passing by unconscious of any danger. On one occasion a clerk was standing in the second story door- way when a sudden gust of wind blew the door against him with such force as to push him forward several feet, and he came down straight as an arrow, striking squarely on his feet, and strange to say, was not seriously hurt. In the year 1846 the principal business places on the west side of Salina street between Washington and Water streets were Bedell's hotel, D. Y. Foot's drug store, Ash- ley & Williston's furniture, S. P. Pierce, crockery, and Hall. Rhodes & Sherman, hardware store. The last named firm did a large business here for ten years. For
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many years Mr. Hall was an active politician, a Jack- sonian ; in 1831 he was elected sheriff on the Democratic ticket; in 1837 he was candidate for the Assembly but was not elected in consequence of the unpopularity of his party through Jackson's quarrel with the United States Bank and the financial crisis of that year. In 1838 he was appointed County Judge which ended his career in politics. His large acquaintance and popularity gave the firm of Hall, Rhodes & Sherman a trade that resulted in a financial success. They were succeeded by Strong, Fink & Penniman, and they in turn by Geo. and Giles Everson.
Mr. Malcolm's wooden dwelling was the last of its kind left standing in the center of the town. It was about thirty by forty feet in size, the Salina street front was finished with plain ceiling, with pilasters between the doors and windows, and the old style oriel window in the gable; in appearance it had been the pride of the village, but the year before Syracuse became a city the old landmark bade adieu to the centre of the town and modestly gave place to the Malcolm block which was completed in 1847; the upper story was finished for a public hall and was well patronized for lectures and entertainments. A description of one of these may be interesting and also serve to contrast the past with the present. Dr. Dodd gave a course of lectures in Malcolm Hall on what he termed psychology; the Doctor was a good speaker and was capable of making almost any subject interesting. He drew crowded houses for more than a week. His science was nothing more than magnetism under a different name.
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His method was this, -- to invite twenty-five or thirty of the audience who were willing to be made subjects to take seats forward, and he would then place a piece of zinc about an inch in size, with a half-dime in the centre, in the hand of each ; they were to look very atten- tively at this coin for twenty minutes, then the Doctor would take each one in turn by the hand and pressing firinly with his thumb the ulnar nerve on the back of the hand near the second and third fingers would assume the most positive manner toward the subject and command him to shut his eyes, and would then say "now you can't open your eyes," which would sometimes be the case. He would always find two or three in the thirty who were susceptible; these he would take on the stage and perform many remarkable experiments with them while in the psychological state, such as to com- mand them to revolve one hand over the other with a rotary motion, he would say "faster, faster, now you can't stop," and they would keep their hands whirling one over the other to the great amusement of the audience. So popular were the lectures at the time that many came for miles from the country to attend them. After the lectures the Doctor formed a class and taught the science, each student paying ten dollars and solemnly promising not to reveal the secret. Many of our best citizens in- vested.
About the year IS31 the little building standing on the both east corner of Salina and Wa hington streets, which has been described as renting for six shillings per week, was removed by the Syracuse Co., and foundation walls
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laid for a considerable building to be known as the Ex- change Hotel. Its first proprietors were Van Patten & Crane. While the building was in process of construc- tion, a great storm arose and blew the end walls and scaffolding upon the little primitive buildings standing between that point and the Syracuse House, completely demolishing two and damaging several others. The storm was terrific in its appearance while approaching, the fleecy white clouds underlying the dark massive storm clouds from which the lightning seemed to be con- stantly flashing. This ominous appearance inspired fear in all beholders and together with the unfinished building high over their little buildings alarmed the inmates and they took refuge in safer quarters ; this precaution saved their lives. The accident hastened the construction of a better class of buildings between this point and the Syra- cuse House, and all of these buildings have been from time to time remodeled until there is no resemblance to the original structures. The old Exchange with its high gable walls long since gave place to the more modern mansard roof and many external ornaments, unknown to the original architects. One prominent feature of the hotel was Library Hall; it was the first and for years the most important hall in the village, the ceiling was arched and frescoed, the first that was done in the place. One of the best artists in New York was employed to do the work, which comprised a variety of nearly life size figures, such as the Goddess of Liberty with her scales of justice in one hand and in the other the staff on which the stars and stripes were unfurled in a most graceful manner,
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making a fine appearance when the hall was lighted. To give any thing like a fair description of the beauty of this ceiling would require too much space and it is more than forty years since I have seen them. An account of the many lectures delivered in this hall in the early days of Syracuse would be interesting reading, as showing the advancement of civilization in Syracuse. This last sentence will be regarded as a remarkable expression, but still I can use none other to answer my purpose as well. During the days of the anti-slavery agitation, it was announced that Abbie Kelley and a Quaker from Skaneateles, named Fuller, would lecture in Library Hall on anti-slavery. When the hour arrived the hall was filled, but not with the best citizens, who at that time felt it would be a disgrace for them to be seen at such a lecture. The position and arguments of the speakers were the great wrongs of slavery, which were portrayed in the most feeling and touching language; they did not advocate nor contemplate abolition of slavery in the states by Congress or any other branch of the national government. Their ideas being that slavery might be abolished by moral influence, with such incidental aid as the national government could constitutionally afford and without disturbing the union of the states; that the wrongs of slavery were so appalling in the sight of God, that the people ought to be educated to see the magni- tude of this national sin. For the expression of these Christian and humane sentiments, they were mobbed ind egred by citizens of Syracuse. It seems impossible that such an outrage could have ever taken place in our
WEST END OF THE OLD DEPOT.
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midst, when the provocation was only the attacking of the monstrous absurdity that one man could own another man, and that his title was the same as that by which he owned his horse or his ox. The flexibility of public opinion is demonstrated when a few years later we con- trast this occurrence with that of a few of our citizens, who opposed the whole power of the government and peaceably rescued the slave Jerry.
THE OLD DEPOT.
About the year 1838, E. W. Leavenworth, president of the village, drafted a resolution granting to the Syracuse & Utica R. R Co., the right of way, and the privilege of constructing a depot in the center of the street between Salina and Warren street. For these privileges the com- pany was required to build a sewer through the street, lay flagstone walks, plant trees, keep the street in repair, and also purchase sufficient land for an alley each side of the depot. The railroad company contracted with Daniel Elliott to build the depot. It was a wooden building twenty feet high, sufficiently wide for two tracks and a raised platform ten feet wide on each side, which was on a level with the platform of the cars. There was one foot space between the two and a better place for an accident could not have been invented. The building was a mere shell, and as badly contrived for the purpose for which it was intended as possible. In the west end there were stairs leading from the platform to the waiting room above; this was not expected to accommodate more than thirty or forty persons at one time. There
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was also a small room for the Superintendent and a ticket office; this was found so inconvenient that it was removed. There was a small belfry with a bell that was rung fifteen minutes before the departure of each train, as in those days there was nothing more uncertain than the time when the train would leave, as there was but one track and no telegraph lines. If a train was adver- tised to leave at nine o'clock for the east, a passenger would hurry and take his seat and sometimes it would be an hour or two before the train would start, as the east- ern train must be in and the track clear before it was safe to proceed in that direction. These delays were a great inconvenience to the travelling public,-the quiet and patient submitted with good grace, saying, that what could not be helped must be endured ; while the nervous and impatient were loud in their denunciation of such management. There was no better school to study human character than here. Quite an amusing incident occurred on a time when the train and passengers for nearly three hours had been expected to start west; the passengers were out of all patience and weary of hearing the roar of the steam escaping through the safety valve. There was a Russian officer on board who, observing the impatience and feeling much annoyed himself, seemingly forgot his locality, and stepping out proceeded to the engineer and commanded him to move on with his train. The only response he received was a hearty chuckle from the fireman. The officer flew into a great rage and said, "by the power vested in me by the Czar of Russia I command this train to move on!" (at the same time
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bringing his foot down with great force.) The engineer said to him that the Czar might go to +-, and if he could not wait until the conductor pulled the bell cord, he could proceed on foot. It was explained that in Russia all superior officers have power over inferiors in such cases. In 1848, E. B. Alvord built a small brick building on the corner of Warren street where the Uni- versity Block now stands, and named it the " California House." There were wide doors to the dining room, and directly opposite there was an arched opening into the depot, and as the train came in the tables in Mr. Alvord's dining room were in full view of the passengers a few feet distant. This was so convenient that he secured nearly all the patronage from the hotels. To obviate this, the hotel proprietors influenced the Super- intendent to close up the opening in the depot. This spoilt Mr. Alvord's trade,-he thereupon broke down the door at the approach of the principal train, declaring that the depot was in the street and that the Railroad Company had no right to obstruct the highway. Mr. Alvord was arrested and gave bail. The next day the door was replaced, and on the approach of the train Mr. Alvord broke down the door. He had an understanding with the officers to so faciliate the arrest, conviction and signing the bail bond, that he was able to be back and assist in serving his guests. This very remarkable and strange proceeding was continued for many days, and those who sympathized with Mr. Alvord declared him to be a hero, but the contest was so unequal that he finally
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concluded that discretion was the better part of valor, and the archway in the old depot remained closed.
The greatest noise that was ever heard in this city occurred at the old depot in 1858. When it was an- nounced that the first Atlantic Telegraph cable had been successfully laid, the press of our city resolved to cele- brate the achievement. One part of the program was that a train of thirteen locomotives should be located in the old depot and that they open their noisy whistles and all the church bells in the city should commence to ring at the discharge of the first cannon. This part of the program was carried out as the signal was given, and the most unearthly shriek that the human ear ever heard was the result. Though the cannon were fired and the bells were rung, their sound was not heard above the shriek of the engines. The effect upon the listeners was most appalling, producing an electric shock that made the strongest turn pale; some women and children were thrown into convulsions and did not fully recover from the shock for days, and everyone present was glad when the noise ceased. The streets were densely packed and enthusiastic speakers made congratulatory remarks until late in the evening. In the winter of 1867, the Railroad Company resolved to remove the dilapidated old struct- ure that had been an eyesore in the center of the city so many years, accordingly one Saturday, messengers were sent to all the shops where large numbers of men were employed, with word that the old depot would be toru down on Sunday, and the lumber given for wood to all that would carry it away on that day, and large numbers
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were on hand prepared to make the most of the oppor- Munity. The building was about twelve rods long, and the amount of wood was immense. The Railroad Com- ! any with a engine and cable pulled it down and it was soon carried away. On Monday morning there was not a stick to be seen on the ground. The change in the place was so great that citizens who came suddenly upon the familiar location were amazed at the transformation a day had wrought.
THE WEST SIDE OF SOUTH SALINA STREET BETWEEN WASHINGTON AND FAYETTE.
That part of South Salina street between Washington and Fayette streets was for a number of years the prop- erty of three men. Mr. John Wilkinson and Wm. B. Kirk owned the corner lots; they were men of mental capacity, but dissimilar in other respects. I feel to en- courage that class of young men who are to commence the journey of life without capital to aid them. If they study well the successful men of our city and the great men of our nation including Lincoln and Garfield, they will be benefitted thereby. These men all commenced life poor, and I would say to these young men that so far as my observation extends, it more frequently happens that those who begin life poor are the most successful in reaching places of position and wealth. As one of a great number I could mention, John Wilkinson is a good example for young men to emulate. He had the energy and determination to overcome all the difficulties that were thrown in his way. The Academy at Onondaga
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Valley was thirteen miles from his home and sometim. for six months he would make the journey twice a wee; Monday morning as soon as it was dawn he would star: for school on foot, with the provisions to last him a we .: in the knapsack on his back. A young man willing : endure such hardships to gain an education would be sure to waste no time in the pursuit of his studies. H .. diligence and perseverance attracted the attention c: Judge Forman, a patron of the school who gave him : position in his office to study law. After completing his studies, his first work was to assist in surveying the Walton tract into village lots, after which he built in the year 1820 a small building for a law office on the corner of Washington and Salina streets ; at this time there were no other buildings near him as this point was almost in the forest. A few years later he built a dwelling house south of his office where he lived for many years. H: was the first clerk of the village, the first postmaster, the first president of the Utica and Syracuse Railroad, and later president and manager of several railroads in the western states, and always holding the best interests of Syracuse in the highest esteem. In the year 1846 the lot where his office and house for so many years had been standing was made vacant and the Globe Hotel was erected. Its external appearance has changed but little for over forty years. In 1824 the Syracuse Company sold the lot on the corner of Salina and Fayette streets to John Garrison. who built a tavern, a low two su :: building with a cheap piazza the whole length of its front on Salina street. Mr. Garrison was a man of limited
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means. He cut the scattering pine trees which were standing on the west side of Clinton and Fayette streets, drew them to the saw-mill on west Water street, and had the logs sawed for his tavern. He was in need of a lumber wagon which he purchased on credit of William B. Kirk, who was then a wagon maker at Cardiff. Soon after the completion of the building Mr. Garrison died and in order to collect his debt for the wagon, Mr. Kirk bought the tavern and moved here in 1826. Mr. Kirk was fond of relating this to show how a circumstance changed his Ife from a mechanic to a tavern keeper. Mr. Kirk was popular with the country people who usually patronized his house. If I were writing a history of men it would Le difficult to find a man who had made a fortune with less activity or one that circumstances had favored more than Mr. Kirk. A particular circumstance led him to invest a large part of his capital in the Central Railroad stock in its early days. From this investment a large part of his wealth was accumulated. In the year 1859 the old tavern was moved away and the Kirk Block took its place. This block was designed for a hotel. While Mr. Pulver was proprietor an accident happened that came near being very serious; two barrels of burning ilaid in the cellar caught fire, and owing to its volatile nature there was an immense amount of black smoke generated in a few seconds, which filled the lower floors and stairways so densely that the lady boarders in their rooms were unable to make their exit, and were driven to the upper story to avoid suffocation; they ap- peared at the windows half dead from fright and suffoca-
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tion, and in their frenzy were determined to jump from the third story, while a hundred voices were shouting to them some one and some another thing; Dr. Westcott appeared on the scene and gaining their confidence told them it would be sure death if they jumped, that ladders would be there in a few moments, and pledged him-elf that if they would be calm he would be responsible for their safety. Meanwhile Mrs. Cloyde, one of their num- ber, found a ladder that lead to the scuttle on the roof, which she opened and thus found a way of rescue; in a few moments all were safely descending from the roof through the scuttle of the Globe Hotel, the fire was checked after the fluid was burned and no great loss occurred. That block is now (1889) being torn down preparatory to the erection of a much finer one on the same site by Mr. Kirk's son, Wm. B., who is the present Mayor of the city.
VANDERBILT SQUARE TO FAYETTE STREET.
The block south of Vanderbilt Square was not entirely cleared of its native forest trees in 1824. It was then owned by the Syracuse Company. In that year three members of the Company gave the lot now occupied by McCarthy's store to the Presbyterian society who built a church there in 1825. This was quite a small church even for those days, and as the society increased in num- bers it was soon necessary to enlarge it. Many thought at the time that it was built too far away from the villa ... and much complaint was made of the mud encountered in going to the services; but the little white church with
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it- green blinds made a pretty appearance among a few tall forest trees near by, and as the lot was a gift, the long walk was endured with a good grace. Rev. John Watson Adams was pastor for twenty-four years, and lived for several years on Franklin street; he died at the Empire House in 1850. Dr. Adams was graduated from the Theological Seminary at Auburn, N. Y., and com- menced his life work as the pastor of this church, where he continued his labors for a quarter of a century. Under his leadership the church met with no reverses and constantly increased in numbers and wealth and he left it one of the strongest and wealthiest churches in the city. A singular coincidence was the circumstance that on the day the last portion of his old church was re- moved to give place to the Dillaye Block, Dr. Adams breathed his last. His life and the scene of his life's exertions as if in sympathy, becoming events of the past at the same time. The best men of the city have filled the offices of this church. It commenced with a membership of twenty-six persons and had seven trustees, one of whom was Joshua Forman, who raised the money to build the church, by circulating a subscription paper himself, obtaining eighty-three names. In 1829 some children playing around the foundations of the church, looking in a small opening left in the wall under the floor for a ventilator, discovered a string ; one of the number, child like, pulled it out and found a tin can fastened to the end of the string containing seven hundred dollars. A short time previous several stores hed been rubbed
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and the money had been secreted here, but by this for- tunate circumstance was restored.
In the year 1839 Hamilton and Horace White con- tracted with Daniel Eliott to build, on the corner where the White Memorial building is located, a two and a half story brick building ; it was very plain and substantial, and was used for the Bank of Syracuse and also the Onondaga County Bank. The lower floor was for many years occupied by the American Express Company. Be- tween this building and the church were several two story brick buildings which were quite small and of poor appearance. In 1850 Henry A. Dillaye bought the old church property and built a very fine five story building, covering the entire lot, in beauty and elegance of finish surpassing any other building on South Salina street. It had the appearance of standing alone, and it was thought to be too far removed from the center of business to rent well ; however it proved to be a first class investment, and those owning the small stores between the Bank building and the Dillaye block caught the inspiration and the fronts were taken out and the stores raised up and greatly improved in looks. In 1855 the Dillaye block burnt down, and was rebuilt in 1856, and was soon after purchased by Dennis McCarthy for a dry goods store.
SOUTH SALINA STREET FROM FAYETTE TO ONONDAGA.
That portion of the city previously described had been reclaimed from the forest, and put in a suitable condition for the erection of buildings, but on reaching that point south of East Fayette street and along the line of South Salina street to Billings Park, it is necessary to show
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what was accomplished before the present spacious and elegant buildings could be erected. The underbrush of the forest was removed, the water courses changed, the smaller hills removed, and the ravines filled. It is also due to mention the names of those who have long been sleeping in their graves, but who while in life with their strong arms and muscle toiled and labored to pre- pare the soil for our gardens and beautiful lawns. This locality was a part of the Walton tract, and when it came into the possession of the Syracuse Company in 1824, the heavier timber had been removed; but still it was covered with stumps and underbrush. The Company's first work was to clear it ; they built a farm-house with barn and corn house near the corner of Jefferson and Salina streets. The Company placed John Husenfrats in the house and contracted with him to clear the land per acre, after which he was allowed to cultivate it. For years this hard working German with his men and ox team labored to remove trees, brush and stumps until he could see from Salina street to Mulberry street his acres of corn, potatoes and fields of waving grain. In 1825 the ground over which Salina street was constructed was very uneven, a few rods north of Jefferson street there was a deep ravine fifteen feet in depth crossing Salina street through which a stream called Yellow brook found its way to the mill pond. The banks of this stream were lined with flags and weeds, and sometimes a "i on crostini be brille ca Sin . treet might see a Meskrat or wild duck skulking in the flags to hide out of sight. On the banks of this creek a Mr. White built a
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