USA > New York > Steuben County > History of Steuben county, New York, with illustrations and biographical sketches of some of its prominent men and pioneers > Part 25
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CHAPTER XX. GRAPE-GROWING AND WINE-MAKING.
The Grape District-Grape Culture-Wine Companies-Process of Wine-Making-Marketing Grapes.
THE GRAPE DISTRICT.
IN the production of grapes and wine Steuben is the banner county of the State. The seetion of Steuben
# For much of the matter of this chapter credit is due the Steuben Farmer's Advocate of Jan. 31, 1879.
90
IHISTORY OF STEUBEN COUNTY, NEW YORK.
County adapted to grape-culture is that portion bordering on Crooked Lake, in the towns of Pulteney, Wayne, and Urbana, and in Pleasant Valley, at the head of the lake in the last-mentioned town. This district lies in latitude forty-two degrees thirty minutes north, and longitude thirty minutes west of Washington, at an elevation above tide- water of nearly seven hundred feet. The valley of Pleas- ant Valley and Crooked Lake has an indefinite beginning near Bath, and extends in a northeasterly direction eight miles, with an average width of two miles, to the head of the lake where the village of Hammondsport is situated, the direction of the lake being mainly the same for twenty miles farther to Penn Yan. This lake is three hundred and fifty feet in depth, of pure, clear water, and seldom freezes over at the head in the coldest winters. It has two branches, separated by a promontory of great elevation called Bluff Point. The circumference of the entire lake, and that portion of the valley in vineyards, is something over sixty miles.
The soil is a clay loam largely mixed with shale, gravel, and stone of black slate. The face of the country border- ing the lake and valley is remarkably uneven and hilly, and has in places a slope of forty degrees. This belt or border of the valley and lake is deeply cut and gashed at various distances by rushing, dashing streams (at certain seasons of the year), with ravines a hundred feet deep or more, with cascades, at intervals, of rare beauty, and again by laugh- ing, dancing rivnlets, draining the border, the plateaus, and hills which lie back from the lake at every varying distance and height. It is upon these slopes or borders that the vineyards of this justly-celebrated grape and wine region have their location. The belt occupied by the vine is from a quarter of a mile to a mile in width.
The circumstances and material elements which conspire to make this a grape locality of earliness and healthfulness of the vine, above most others, are the composition and formation of the soil, the perfect drainage by nature, the influence of the lake, and the links of mountain heights surrounding it; besides it is believed that Canandaigua Lake north, and Ontario and Seneca near by, lend their influence in lengthening the season beyond that natural to the latitude, so tempering the atmosphere in moisture and warmth as to result in a location for the vine of great health- fulness, and in giving to the fruit a flavor untainted of soil or anything of a foreign nature.
GRAPE-CULTURE.
.
Vine-culture as a business commenced in this region in 1854, by the planting of Catawba and Isabella varieties, which had been grown in gardens for twenty years before, having been first introduced into Pleasant Valley by Rev. William Bostwick.
As early as 1836, Mr. J. W. Prentiss, of Pulteney, had obtained a few cuttings of Mr. Bostwick, and planted them on an elevation of eight hundred feet above the lake, and abont two miles back from its western shore. From these he continued the experiment year after year, until he had a vineyard of three aeres.
In 1854, Andrew Reisenger, a German vine-dresser, came into Pulteney, eight miles north of Hammondsport,
and planted about an aere and a half on the hill-side on the banks of the lake with Catawbas and Isabellas, mostly the former. The soil was a heavy clay, and he trenched it in the German mode two and a half feet deep. Reisenger's experiment was rather a failure, and was ultimately aban- doned by him. But in 1855, Orlando Shepherd and Judge Jacob Larrowe brought vines from there to Pleasant Valley, and set out about half an acre each on the hill-side, near Hammondsport.
The minds of the people in the valley have received a strong impetus towards grape-culture from several causes. The first of these was the uniform prolificacy and excellence of the grape on their lands under almost any treatment ; second, the great success and profits of Longworth and others at Cincinnati in its culture, and the example nearer by, in Avon, and also that of Mr. MeKay, of Naples, Ontario Co., who had cultivated a vineyard of several acres from about 1848, with great profit; and finally, the agricultural newspapers of that period were specially engaged in calling attention to the subject. An influx into the neighborhood of industrious and honest Germans, familiar with grape- culture and wine-making, gave the people an opportunity to obtain further information on the subject. They became satisfied that their soil and climate were adapted to that culture, and the Germans supplied them with experienced laborers. They, therefore, did not await the result of Shep- herd's and Larrowe's experiment. In 1858 both of these gentlemen increased their vineyards to two or three aeres each ; Bell and McMaster set out six or eight acres of vines ; Edwin P. Smith, two aeres; Grattan H. Wheeler, four acres ; Charles D. Champlin, one acre ; Stanley B. Fair- child, one aere ; Timothy M. Younglove, one aere.
In the fall of 1858, Aaron Y. Baker, of Pleasant Valley, went to Ohio, and examined the vineyards at Kelley's Island, four hundred aeres of which were probably then in bearing. He brought back thirty thousand cuttings, and his report of what he saw further stimulated the enterprise of his townsmen. But we can no longer trace the history of individual enterprise.
In 1859 and 1860 full two hundred acres of vines were set out. The surface sinee planted has extended to about five thousand acres, a large proportion of which are in bearing. The present vineyard region extends along the hill-slopes on the west side of Pleasant Valley and the west shore of Crooked Lake for a distance of ten or twelve miles, and occupies a productive area of considerable extent on the east side in the town of Wayne.
The varieties now chiefly grown are Catawba, Isabella, Delaware, Diana, Iona, and Coneord, while there are many others grown in less quantities. Their rank for wine has been graded about as follows : first, Iona; then Delaware ; then Catawba. Diana, for white wine; Norton's Virginia Seedling, Ives Seedling, Isabella, Clinton, and Concord, for red wine.
The average annual yield, taking the entire acreage in bearing, is estimated at three thousand pounds per acre. Some vineyards of Catawbas, Isabellas, and Concords do sometimes yield four tons, and even more, per acre. Other varieties, as Delaware, Diana, lona, and many others, do not yield as much under like circumstances.
97
HISTORY OF STEUBEN COUNTY, NEW YORK.
The facilities for shipping the products of the vineyards, either as grapes or wine, from this section are ample and convenient. Hammondsport, at the head of the lake, is connected with Bath by railroad, which has a station at the Pleasant Valley Wine-Cellars, two miles south of the former place and six miles from the latter. Penn Yan, at the foot of the lake, is not only a port for the steamers which make daily trips between there and Hammondsport, but is also sit- uated on the Northern Central Railroad, connecting both with the Erie and the New York Central. The steamers land regularly at the dock of the Urbana Wine Company, whose cellars are located on the west side of the lake, a few miles below Hammondsport. They also cruise along the lake-shore, and take on at every doek the packages of grapes for shipping. The vintage takes place from the 20th of September to the 20th of October. There are shipped to New York and other places, as fruit for the table, from eight to nine hundred tons each year. Of the other por- tion of the whole erop, the larger share is made into wine, some into brandy.
WINE COMPANIES.
Incidental to such extensive vineyards, where marketing for table use was neither profitable nor practicable ou so large a scale, eame wine-making, which is now thoroughly organized and systematized as an industry of no inconsider- able magnitude. There are three organized and prosperous wine companies within the grape-growing zone of this county, whose history we shall now proceed to give in the order of their organization, beginning with the pioneer institution.
TIIE PLEASANT VALLEY WINE COMPANY.
This company was organized in 1860. The original cor- porators were William Baker, Aaron Y. Baker, Charles D. Champlin, Grattan H. Wheeler, Timothy M. Younglove, Deloss Rose, G. H. Brundage, E. Brundage, Bell & Me- Master, Dugald Cameron, and J. W. Davis. It was through the efforts of the late C. D. Champlin that this company was formed, and who was its manager until his death, January, 1875. It was his energy, perseverance, and business ability that made the business a success and made a reputation for its product, which is second to none of the kind produced upon the American continent. Their vaults and buildings are situated about two miles from Ham- mondsport, on the Bath and Hammondsport Railroad. 'Their vaults are four in number, each 100 by 22 feet, with a capacity of stowing 1,000,000 bottles of champagne and 100,000 gallons of still wine.
The officers at present are Hon. Ira Davenport, Presi- dent and Treasurer ; A. S. Tuttle, Vice-President ; D. Bauder, Secretary ; and Jules Masson, Superintendent. The company own but a small experimental vineyard, con- sisting of about five acres, where all the new varieties are grown and tested for wine purposes. They control, through its stockholders, nearly 250 acres of the finest vineyards in this section.
This company, in the first year of its organization, used about 18 tons of grapes, which steadily increased until 1874, when they consumed nearly 1500 tons. Since that 13
time until the present it has ranged between 500 to 1000 tons yearly,-12 to 15 pounds of grapes will produce a gallon of wine. They began the manufacture of cham- pagne in 1865, which year they bottled 20,000 bottles, which steadily increased until 1870, when they bottled 150,000 bottles, which has been about the average up to the present They distilled from 1000 to 1500 gallons of brandy annually up to 1875, since which they have not distilled any. The capital is nominally $20,000, but the earnings have been used to enlarge their works, storage, and stock, until they have nearly $200,000 invested.
THIE URBANA WINE COMPANY.
The Urbana Wine Company, located at Hammondsport, in this county, was organized in the spring of 1865, with a capital stock of two hundred and fifty thousand dollars, and owning two hundred and twenty-five aeres of grape land, carefully selected, and much of it then set to grapes. The first officers chosen were John W. Davis, President ; H. H. Cook, Secretary and Treasurer; and A. J. Switzer, Superintendent and General Managing Agent.
To superintend the manufacture of wine the company secured the services of Charles Le Breton, a native of Nantes, in France, who had been for several years con- neeted with important European wine-cellars, and whose practical experience eminently insured success. The build- ings of the company, which occupy a beautiful site on the lake-shore about half-way between Hammondsport and Bluff Point, were began in 1865 and completed in the following summer. They consist of three neatly-con- structed stone dwellings, a separate fire-proof building for the distilling of brandy, and the main stone structure containing the cellars and wine-house. The cellars are one hundred by twenty-two feet in the clear, aud are separated by a heavy stone wall and arched above at the height of eighteen feet in the centre. The main building, including the cellars, is sixty-five feet at the front elevation from the ground to the ridge, and cost the company thirty-five thou- sand dollars, exclusive of the fixtures, which are certainly no small item of expense when counted in detail.
The first elected officers of this company continued to discharge their respective duties till February, 1871, when the stockholders at their annual meeting elceted the follow- ing: President, D. M. Hilarith, New York ; Vice-Presi- dent, Clark Bell, New York; Treasurer, H. H. Cook, Bath ; Secretary, A. Smedburg, New York; General Superintendent, A. J. Switzer, Hammondsport; Bourd of Directors, D. M. Hildrith, New York ; Clark Bell, New York ; Henry H. Cook, Bath ; E. Eldridge, Elmira ; Gen. W. W. Averell, A. Smedburg, New York; Dr. Fred. B. Lent, New York ; Harlo Hakes, Hornellsville; John W. Davis, Hammondsport.
LAKE KEUKA WINE COMPANY.
The Lake Keuka Wine Company was organized Oct. 1, 1878, and owns the works known as the " Crooked Lake Wine-Cellars," situated in the fine grape-growing section ou Lake Keuka. W. A. Tomer, Secretary ; Charles Le Breton, Superintendent.
Mr. Le Breton was for twelve years in charge as wine-
98
IIISTORY OF STEUBEN COUNTY, NEW YORK.
maker of the Urbana Wine Company, and his name is favorably mentioned in connection with awards of the Paris Exposition of 1878.
PROCESS OF WINE-MAKING.
Still Wine .- The fruit is brought to the wine-house, where it is carefully tested with the must scale, the price being graduated by the amount of saccharine matter con- tained in the grape. Good, well-ripened Isabellas range from seventy to seventy-five degrees of the saccharometer, Catawbas eighty to eighty-five degrees, Delawares and Ionas occasionally reaching one hundred and ten degrees.
The grapes are then ground through a grating-mill, set sufficiently close to break the berries without cracking any of the seeds. From the mill the pulp falls into a ferment- ing-tub or directly on the press, for here is determined the kind of wine to be made. If it falls on the press it is pressed and deposited in large cakes in the cellar as soon as convenient, so that no coloring matter contained in the skin is mixed with the wine, leaving it pure and white. This is called press wine. If it falls into the tub it is left to stand a short time (if white wine is wanted) to allow the wine to settle apart from the pulp, when the wine is drawn from the faucet, and no wine is taken except what will run off without pressing, which is termed " cream wine." If a colored or red wine is desired it is allowed to ferment on the skin from two to four weeks, and is then drawn or pressed, as is desired. What remains in the tub after the wine is drawn is allowed to ferment, and some time during the year, usually in March or April, is distilled, and from this is obtained the brandy. When the largest quantity of cream wine is made the most and best brandy is made, while from pressed husks the yield is small.
The average yield of' press wine from good, well-ripened grapes is about eight gallons to the hundred pounds, while the cream only yields five or six gallons. It is estimated that one hundred pounds of grapes will make abont one gallon of brandy, so that what is taken out in wine will lessen its yield in brandy. These figures are subject to wide alterations, according to quality and condition of the fruit, but are given to show what may be expected of the grape. If the grape has been grown upon a favored locality, prop- erly trained and cultivated, as the season is favorable, its yield is much more valuable than when reverses follow from the season of blossoming to harvest. The greatest amount of sunshine and the least amount of water that will grow and mature the fruit seem to be the height of excellence.
Whether the wine is leached or pressed, it is stored in large casks in the cellar, to ferment, and is racked when sufficiently cured and "fined." The settling of these casks is termed " lees," and is put with the husks and termed " brandy material."
Sparkling Wine .- In order to make sparkling wine or champagne, it must first go into and be a good article of still- wine. Sparkling wine is made by inducing a second fermen- tation in still-wine, which is then corked down, and the gas which the fermentation engenders is held in and forced to mingle with the wine, and ever after seeking its liberty when loosed from its confinement. This gives the wine a sprightly and lively taste, peculiarly palatable and exhila-
rating. It is the knowledge and skill in creating and con- trolling the amount of gas in the wine which is so valuable to a wine-maker and wine-making. Indeed, it is one of the nicest points, and requires the most careful attention, for a little too much pressure bursts the bottles, and all is lost ; too little, and the wine is worthless. The grape is perhaps the most delicate and sensitive fruit grown ; and it is sur- prising, even to those who are accustomed to the grape and its habits, to learn, as experience often shows, how the quality of the fruit may be varied by the location and sur- roundings while growing. So, too, nice care is required to know when the wine is in just the right fermentation for bottling. The bottles are filled by a machine (imported from France) with great facility and with the greatest ac- curacy, so that none will be too full and none with less than enough. They are then corked by another machine, which at once presses the cork and drives it home, when it passes to the graffe machine, and is there secured in the same speedy and perfect manner by a graffe or gripe (a late French importation) made of small half-round iron, passing over the cork and fastening under the flange of the bottle on each side. The bottles are then laid down on the side, so that the wine comes in contact with the cork, causing it to swell and make still more secure that which was firmly fixed before.
Although the wine when bottled is as well cleared and nicely fined as skill can do it, yet, at the expiration of a year, there are found to be dirty streaks of sediment deposi- ted on the lower side of the bottle. If through accident or carelessness this sediment becomes disturbed, the bottle has again to go down on its side for another long rest, and the operation is retarded for months. This is why strangers are warned in every such manufactory to keep their hands off the bottles.
When the wine has lain a sufficient length of time to deposit its sediment and properly ripen, the bottle is placed on a table with the same side down it occupied during its long rest, slightly inclining, the cork downward. An ex- pert shakes each bottle twice a day from four to six weeks, by seizing it by the bottom and giving it a quick, rotary, shaking motion each day, inclining the cork more and more downwards. By so doing the sediment is gradually slid down from the side of the bottle until it rests on the cork, and the wine is clear. The bottles are then removed from the table and piled in large boxes, cork down, to wait their turn for disgorging. When this is done they are hoisted to a room above (always cork down), when the expert seizes one, with the neck of the bottle in his left hand and the bottom in his arm-pit ; he removes the graffe and allows the cork to fly out with a report like a pistol, when all the sedi- ment and a small portion of the wine is thrown ont. Then for the first in a long time the bottle is turned bottom down or placed upon its proper base. This process is termed disgorging. By a nicely-constructed graduated scale, an amount of syrup (made from rock candy dissolved in wine) is injected into the wine, without allowing much of the gas to escape. The bottle is again corked, and the cork graffed the same as the first time, but with a new and much finer cork. The first cork cost three cents and the last one five, all of which are imported, as are also all the machinery and
99
HISTORY OF STEUBEN COUNTY, NEW YORK.
bottles used in the wine-making establishments. The cork is next covered with foil, when neat and tasty labels are placed upon the bottles and they are packed in straw ready for shipment.
This gives but a faint idea of the labor and expense of making sparkling wine, for it is estimated that each bottle, from the time it arrives at the wine-house and before it leaves, requires to be handled two hundred times in order to perfect a good article of sparkling wine.
BOX MAKING.
The extensive shipping of grapes necessitated an inven- tion which has grown into a new and important branch of industry. We refer to box-making, which is carried on by several steam establishments in the grape district. To illus- trate the extent of this business we will take one factory, that, for instance, lately run by the Fairchild Bros., at
Hammondsport. Commencing in the infancy of the grape- growing, they kept pace with its progress, manufacturing as follows: 1863, 20,000; 1864, 50,000; 1865, 70,000; all being sold at home. In 1867 were made 100,000 boxes, 25,000 going to other grape districts in the State. In 1868, their sales were 180,000, of which 85,000 were foreign sales, going to the States of Pennsylvania, New Jersey, Virginia, North Carolina, Kentucky, and California. In 1870, they made and sold 300,000 boxes, 150,000 going to the States named. Without doubt, they have sold as high as 100,000 boxes in a year to their home trade.
Three-pound boxes, eighteen in a case, have been the approved and almost universally adopted method of packing grapes for market until the present season. Baskets, hold- ing from five to twenty-five pounds, have this year been used quite extensively, and promise in the future to hold an important place among the packages for shipping.
CHAPTER XXI. STATISTICS. TABLE I .- POPULATION.
Showing the Population of the County by Towns, and the Proportion of Native and Foreign Born Inhabitants at the State Census of 1875.
BORN IN THE UNITED STATES.
BORN IN FOREIGN COUNTRIES.
INHABI ANTS OF
General Total.
Total.
Total in New York State.
In the County of New York
In Counties of New York
contiguous to the County
where enumerated.
In other Counties of New
In Maine.
In New Ilampshire.
In Vermont.
In Massachusetts.
In Rhode Island.
In Connecticut.
In New Jersey.
In Pennsylvania.
Other U. S.
Total.
In Canada.
In England.
In the German Empire.
In Ireland.
In Scotland.
In other Foreign Countries.
Addison
2,593
2.363
2,041
1,389
203
449
8
9
15
34
20
166
Avoca
1.776
1.713
1,621
1,103
102
416
10
12
30
30
5
139
155
:111
679
74
69
457
28
S
Bradford
991
970
886
G33
149
104
1
4
12
7
13
11
25
4.
7
46
3
4
21
16
131
70
G
13
Caton.
1,634
1,555
1,252
769
114
369
1
3
7 S
15
3
13
49
347
8
50
254
31 709
23
46
Dansville ...
1.855
1,684
1.537
1.138
252
147
14
19
10
2
7
25
171
5
24
105
28
G
3
Erwin ..
2.023
1,640
1,311
93
236
3
2
12
11 3
C : 5
5
20
14
33
5
8
135
2
1
5
124
3
llartsville
963
916
843
599
115
129
8
14
4
9
21
12
16
7
21
1
2
lloruby.
1,317
1.271
1,160
6,524
3,998
1,038
1,488 33
33
51
134
14
81
371
153
1.403
69
161
289
831
19
31
Howard
2,131
1,849
1,410
93
316
4
7
6
18
20
46
60
4
34
17
14
11
5
48
52
15
5
Pulteney.
1,444
1,389
1.259
1.12G
866
62
198
G
3
5
7
3
1
4
20
16
9
8
16
264
141
74
36
35
189
10
17
55
81
11
15
Wayland
2.623
2,127 8:34
780
462
192
126
1
...
8
1
1
9
6
2
21
9
1G
1
3
1
1
Woodhull
1,977
1,936
1,567
1,055
107
405
1
6
14
9
T
16
30
265
17
41
12
7
...
20
1
1
90
192
367
574
12
484 885
3,237
972
315
824
1,602
3,635
174
3
Bath
6,704
5.487
4,020
431
1,036
68
95
281
1
18
15
13
17
128 212
42
125
19
5
20
29
19
3
Cohocton
3,161
2,814
2,650
1,904
395
351
1
2
3
16
33
75
30
382
62 102
1,126
30
107
211
151
12
1
Fremont.
1,122
1,089
1,021
789
69
16G
1
7
7
10
12
4
16
55
14
11
3
30
102
12
1
Lindley.
1,481
1.401
1.100
775
75
259
2
5
5
22
30
23
39
140
19
11
29
4
14
-1
Thurston
Troupsburgh.
2.315
2.249
1,391
1.175
843
SO
253
1
7
12
4
10
2
1
7
42
24
490
12
4
465
1
...
22
2
206
1
...
Wheeler.
1,387
1,371
1,305
1,019
99
187
1
2
11
1
...
20
11
8
65
21
240
9
West Union.
1,317
1.077
956
692
115
247
...
2
Wayne ..
2,117
1,928
1,758
1,372
1,557
29$
174
1 2
8
11
3
11
4
32
17
18
41
10
130
1
46
7
3
4
55
51
2
...
Urbana
1,661
1,627
1.485
1.189
50
246
...
348 212
1
3
11
1
10
A: 4
13
44
10
16
28
13
17 10
66 87
20
7
92 2.
12
...
Rathbone.
1.389 1.388
1,342 +
1,209
924
99
1,502
49
34:
5
G
35
23
10
21
...
...
36
Campbell.
2.089
1,910
1,755
1.265
1,880
223
438
3
11
51
9
18
25
Corning
6,796
5,670
4,937
3,273
503
1,161
19
1
9
9
104
29
204
5
24
14
3
Greenwood
1.320
1,185
1,106
882
86
138
223
189
...
S
2
11 47
4
38
37 19
63
S
15
14
19
...
Cameron.
1,609
1,563
1,439
1,276
209
17
1
19
13
55
28
Canisteo.
2,948
2,823
2,541
where enumerated.
York.
STEUBEN COUNTY.
73,838
167,127
60,199
43,140
6,218
10,841
11
31
5
17%
3
1
Horuelisville
8,858
7.4.55
30
138
7
16
G
l'rattaburglı
2,518
2,378
2,222
1,516
359
952
130
186
...
Tuscarora
1.478
23
8
27 29
20
55
1
2
...
9
18
11 80
10
29
21
1 1
5.8
9
4
233
7
5
...
Jasper ..
1,993
1,294
1,892
2,029
853
15
19
9
1
6
1
179
47 46
4
5
9
13
6,711 230
161
9
0,025
1,819
748
139
149
36
100
HISTORY OF STEUBEN COUNTY, NEW YORK.
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