USA > New York > Albany County > Albany > The annals of Albany, Vol IX > Part 23
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true; but such is the general opinion; and the extent of the territory, and the number of farms and houses belong- ing to him, render it extremely probable.
This old gentleman is now upwards of 70 years of age, and feeble. He has led, however, so just and virtuous a life, and been so generous and liberal with his wealth, that he is universally respected and beloved. He has been also most happy in the honorable conduct of his children, whose large expectations have not made them at all less anxious to recommend themselves to the esteem of their neighbors, with whom they mingle on terms of the most friendly equality, and lead the most rational, and least ostentatious life imaginable. Altogether their presence and influence seems to be felt as a blessing to the community.
Besides the family of the Van Rensselears, there are many others of Dutch descent, more, perhaps, than in any other community in America. These, in their number and ramifications, give a great gravity and decorum to the general tone of society here.
There is less of show, in houses, carriages, and horses; less of formal visiting, and large and expensive parties ; less of ceremony and etiquette in visiting, very early hours for meals-seven for breakfast, two for dinner, and six for tea; plainer and more simple fare at each, than in the larger towns; and instead of persons living, as they too frequently do in the large commercial cities, at a rate beyond their income, and then winding up, after a career of extravagance, in a state of insolvency, every family here lives much within its income, and lays by accumulated means for the succeeding generation.
The winter is the period when Albany is fullest of resi- dents and strangers, for at that season of the year the legislature and the courts are in session ; and at that time, besides the families of the legislators, and the members of the bench and the bar, a great number of families come in from the country to stay for the winter. There is then somewhat more of gaiety than in the summer, though even then there is less than in most other cities.
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The theatre is rarely frequented, except when Mr. Forrest, or some very attractive performer, comes, and then only by a small class of the population. Concerts are not often given; and it may serve to show the feelings of a large portion of the influential classes towards public singers generally, to mention that Madame Caradori Allen, who gave a concert at Troy, six miles off, with only half the population of Albany, was unable to give a concert here, because the only eligible room for that purpose, which is a spacious hall, forming the chapel of the Female Academy, was refused to her by the trustees, on the ground of her being also an actress, though it had been granted to Mr. Russell, a vocalist, who was only a singer! Balls are not frequent. nor very largely attended ; and, in short, the grave influence of Dutch descent, mingled with the religious influence of the Puritan settlers of New England, many of whose descendants reside here engaged in business, contribute jointly to give a more quiet and sober air to everything done in the city, than even the Quaker influence spreads over Philadelphia
During our stay in Albany, we witnessed, for the first time, the celebration of the great national festivity of America-the anniversary of the declaration of inde- pendence, on the 4th of July, now observed for the 62d time; and we were much gratified by what we saw. The day was extremely fine-all business appeared to be suspended; and every one was devoted to the enjoyment of holiday. The day break was announced by a discharge of cannon; and at sunrise, a salute of 13 guns was fired, in honor of the 13 original states that united in the declaration of independence. This was followed by the ringing of the bells of all the churches; so that as early as five o'clock, the whole city was awake, and in motion.
At ten o'clock, the prcession(formed to march through the town, on their way to the First Reformed Dutch church, where the "exercises," as all proceedings of public meetings are here called, were to take place) was put in motion; and as they passed before our window in Pearl street, we saw the whole to great advantage. The
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procession was under the direction of the adjutant- general of the state and the marshal of the day, assisted by several military officers, and moved in the following order:
MILITARY ESCORT.
Captain Strain's Albany Republican Artillery. Captain Brown's Albany Union Guards. MILITARY AND CIVIC ASSOCIATIONS. Officers of the United States Army and Navy. Albany Military Association. Orator and Reader. Revolutionary Officers and Soldiers, in carriages. The Reverend the Clergy. Executive of the State.
PHILADELPHIA STATE FENCIBLES. Albany Burgesses Corps. The Common Council, preceded by its officers. Sheriff and his officers. Heads of the Departments of the State, Chancellor, Judges of the United States, State and County Courts, preceded by their Marshals. Fire Department, and the several Engine Companies with their Engines, Hook and Ladder, and Axe Companies under the direction of the Chief Engineer. The Van Rensselaer Guards. St. Andrew's Society. Union Benevolent Society of Journeymen Tailors. Albany Mechanics' Benefit Society. Hibernian Provident Society. Saddle and Harness Makers' Society. St. Patrick's Benevolent Society. Citizens and Strangers.
The Military had really a fine appearance, being well
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dressed, well equipped, and well disciplined; the bands of music, of which there were several, were all good, and one very superior; the various companies and societies, all habited in some peculiar costume, or distinguished by some peculiar badge looked, remarkably well; and the populace, who thronged the foot pavement on each side of the street while the procession filled the " centre, were as well dressed as orderly, and as evidently interested in the proceedings of the day, as the best friend of the republic could desire. What we missed was, the waving of handkerchiefs from the windows and balconies, and the shouts and cheers of the multitude, which usually accompany such processions in England. But the Americans are more decorous than enthusiastic; and the staid and grave manners derived from the Dutch at Albany, make them quite as grave and silent on all public occasions, as the Quaker population of Phil- adelphia.
The part of the procession which touched us most, and made unbidden tears, not of joy or sorrow, but of mere exuberance of sympathy and feeling, start invol- untarily into our eyes, was the sight of the veteran heroes of the revolution, as they passed us in the open carriages that contained them. As sixty-two years have passed away since the declaration of independence, the number of those who actually fought in the war of the revolution is now very small, and they are, of course, every year diminishing; so that in a few years more they will all have descended to the tomb. The veterans we saw were all above 80 years of age, and the oldest of them was 96. The hoary locks which were visible on each, with the associations which their years and services awakened, impressed us more powerfully than anything we had yet witnessed in the country ; and it was evident, from the demeanor and bearing of all parties, young and old, toward these veterans as they passed, that one universal sentiment of veneration and respect for their age and character, pervaded all classes.
In the church, which was crowded in every part, the
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exercises consisted of music by the choir, prayer by the pastor, the reading of the declaration of independence by one of the citizens, and an oration in honor of the day by another-all of which were well performed; and on the procession passing from the church, it marched to the City Hall, and after a discharge of volleys dispersed.
In the afternoon, a second public procession was formed by the members of the Young Men's Association, a body combined for mutual instruction; and this, while it was less military, was more literary-in keeping with the character of the institution. They marched from their rooms in the Knickerbocker Hall to the second Presbyterian church, in regular order; and in addition to the usual exercises of the day, similar to those performed in the morning, there were three original odes, all written expressly for the occasion by ladies of the city, one by a pupil of the Female Academy, and each highly credit- able to the talents of their writers; with a longer poem, by a gentleman of Albany, and member of the associa- tion.
In the evening, the public places of amusement were all open, and illuminations and fire works were exhibited at different quarters of the city. There was also a great public dinner held in one of the domed edifices, about 500 yards from our dwelling, from whence the cheers and huzzas came so loud and so frequent over the toasts that were drank, so as to excite some apprehension for the perfect sobriety of the guests. There were, indeed, some instances of intemperance visible in the streets, but they did not amount to half a dozen, and were among the humblest class of laborers; so that the general sobriety of the day was one of its most remarkable and most pleasing features.
The day was closed by a delightful serenade of music opposite the house of the governor, W. L. Marcy, which, as it adjoined our own residence, we enjoyed in perfection.
The night was delicious, after the warmth of the day ; and the moon, now just about the full, was really brilliant.
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The busy hum of the streets was hushed; for though there were still hundreds of well dressed persons, of both sexes, taking their evening walks beneath the trees that here, as at Philadelphia and most other American cities, line the pavement on either side, yet the sound of their footsteps could scarcely be heard. The band was of first-rate excellence: we understood that it came up from Philadelphia with the State Fencibles : that it was under the training of a colored man, named Frank John- son, who was an able musician, and who having recently been in Europe, had come back greatly improved. The only military bands I ever remember to have heard superior to it were the royal band that attends at the Palace of St. James's in London, and the band of the National Guards at Paris. The music, too, was as well chosen as it was well executed; and our only regret was when it ceased, which was not, however, till nearly midnight.
One of the causes, if not the principal cause, of the general temperance of the people of Albany, is the influence exerted by the operations of the New York State Temperance Society, of which this has for many years past been the head-quarters. Mainly through the philan- thropy, zeal, and liberality, of one individual, Mr. E. C. Delavan, who, having acquired a handsome fortune in trade, devoted the leisure of his retirement, and the use of his funds, to various benevolent objects, the attention of the American public was first roused to the tremendous evils which intemperance inflicted on the country, and the importance of checking its further progress.
It was here the first temperance journal was estab- lished by him, and conducted with so much ability and success, that it attained to the possession of 300,000 sub- scribers throughout the Union. Here also temperance conventions were held, resolutions adopted, circulars, and agents despatched, funds provided, and all the great machinery of the temperance reform set in motion. It was to have been expected that the large class of persons who are interested in the importation, manufacture, and [ Annals, ix.] 27
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sale of intoxicating drinks-a powerful array of num- bers who fatten on the miseries which their traffic inflicts on others-should be violently opposed to him as they were; but it was hardly to be expected, that because he considered wine to be as much an agent in producing intemperance among certain classes, and beer and cider among certain others, as ardent spirits among that class who alone can consume them-and because he boldly proclaimed this truth, and based on it his advocacy of total abstinence from all that can intoxicate, as the only safe rule of action for those who desire to add example to precept in favor of temperance reform-it was hardly to be expected that because of this, he would be set upon and persecuted by the opulent and influential among the laity, and the professed friends of temperance even among the clergy. Yet so it was; and this persecu- tion, for it was nothing short of it, deserves to be numbered among the dark chapters of the history of Albany.
But their triumph was but for a season. The true principle of hostility to intemperance, and all that can occasion it, is gaining ground among the rational of all classes, as much more consistent with Christian virtue, and with social expediency, than the absurd, and selfish war of the rich against ardent spirits, which are drank chiefly by the poor, while indulging the free use of wine, beer and cider, because these are consumed by them- selves; thus realizing the picture of the class described by Hudibras, who,
" Compound for sins they are inclined to, By damning those they have no mind to."
Mr. Delavan, nothing daunted by this opposition, still devotes nearly all his time, and a very large portion of his ample fortune, to the promotion of the temperance cause ; and his labors are abundantly rewarded with success.
The field, however, is still ample for the exercise of all the exertions that can be used, to rescue the country and the people from the curse of intoxicating liquors.
The climate of Albany is characterized by the two
-
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extremes of excessive cold in the winter, and intense heat in the summer. In the winter, which often lasts six months, the river is for a great part of the time frozen over so hard, that the most heavily laden wagons pass daily in numbers over the ice. In some severe winters the thermometer is said to have stood at 35 deg. below zero; but no winter ever passes without its falling some degrees below it. The spring and autumn do not exceed a month each: and the short summer of four months is remarkable for intense heat. During the three weeks of our stay here, the thermometer was always above 80 deg., frequently above 90 deg. and on three or four successive days, nearly touched 100 deg. in the shade, while the dead calm that prevailed made the night almost as oppressive as the day. It was admitted, however, that the summer of this year was unusually sultry, not merely at Albany, but in all parts of the Union.
There is one circumstance which greatly increases the effect of the heat, in driving through the American streets, namely, the excessive roughness of the pavement, and the consequent shaking and jolting experienced even in the best made carriages. It had several times the effect of producing in me double the amount of suffering (uniting the heat of violent motion with the heat of the atmosphere) which would have been felt on a smooth road. I had frequently before thought that there was nothing in which American cities were so inferior to English towns of a similar size, as in their central pave- ments-the side or foot pavements are quite as good: but I was never so forcibly struck with this as at Albany, where the steepness of the streets ascending from the river to the Capitol hill, and the excessive rudeness and roughness of the pavements, caused such an incessant and deafening din, in the noise of carriages and carts, as they rattled over the rounded and uneven points of the projecting stones, and shook me with such sudden and violent oscillations from side to side, and backward and forward in constant motion, as to produce more fatigue and discomfort in a ride of one mile, than would be felt
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at the same temperature in a ride of ten, through any of the streets of London. The rattling noise, indeed, often reminded me of the quaint conceit of Monk Lewis in his poem of the Fire King, in which, when describing that personage, he says, if I remember the words rightly.
"His teeth they did clatter, as if you should try, To play the piano in thimbles."
This evil might be easily remedied by the use of wooden pavements in perpendicularly inserted octagonal blocks, such as have been partially, but successfully, tried in New York and Philadelphia: and, considering the cheapness and abundance of wood in this country, there is little doubt that before long this mode of pavement will be very generally adopted in all level streets; while a much more smooth pavement of granite, such as is used in the best streets of London, might be adopted for ascending or descending streets, for this material is also abundant in most parts of the country.
Albany is singularly deficient in the number of its benevolent institutions, compared with the other cities of America, or with the extent of its own population, wealth, and resources. The only one of interest or importance is the Orphan Asylum, which I went to visit, with one of the directors, and with which I was much pleased. The building is a large brick edifice on the western edge of the town, advantageously situated for the health and comfort of its inmates. The edifice cost about 20,000 dollars, which was raised by private subscription; a few individuals contributing half of the sum required, in payments of 2,500 dollars or 5001. sterling each; and the rest being readily obtained from the inhabitants generally.
The building is enclosed with a spacious and excellent garden of fruits, vegetables, and flowers, which the orphans cultivate themselves: and about five acres of ground afford them pasture for cows, and spacious and airy play grounds.
Though called an orphan asylum, the directors have found it advisable to take in destitute little children,
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who had one parent living, but that parent unable to provide for its offspring, as in the case of destitute widows; and sometimes, where both parents were alive, but where the father being a drunkard and the mother scarcely able to maintain herself, the little children were really as bad off as if both father and mother had been in the grave. I was assured by the director, Mr. Wood, that in an investigation which he deemed it his duty to make, previously to preparing one of the last annual reports, he had found that in fully nineteen cases out of every twenty, the little children, whether orphans or otherwise, were destitute and helpless, entirely because their fathers, or mothers, or both, had been persons of intemperate habits, and expended what they ought to have bestowed on their children in intoxicating drink.
There are at present about 100 children in the Asylum, from 3 to 10 years of age. At their entry, if there be any persons who have a claim to them by relationship or otherwise, the consent of such person is obtained to the giving up the child wholly to the direction of the Asylum till it shall be 21 years of age. The child is then provided in food, raiment, and receives a plain, but religious, education. Their diet is wholly vegetable; and this is found, by some years' experience, to be not only sufficiently nutritious to ensure all the required strength, but superior to animal diet in its being less likely to engender diseases, the average health of the children, notwithstanding the destitute condition in which many of them are taken in, being greater than the average condition of any similar number not so fed. They work in the garden with great cheerfulness, cultivating their own food; and this again, while it is a pleasurable and even instructive recreation, is found to be highly favor- able to their health.
Dúring our visit, which was just before sun-set, the little children were assembled to go through some of their exercises; and a little fellow about seven years old, being directed to step out of the ranks for the purpose, was requested to commence the examination. He began
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to question them on Geography, and they really evinced considerable knowledge for their age. They sang, also, prettily, and in good time. At the close of these exercises, another youth, of about the same age, was invited to repeat an address which he had delivered at the last anniversary; and as it is characteristic of the style of thought and sentiment with which all the early lessons of the American youth abound, I transcribe it, from a copy furnished at my request. The young orator advanc- ing to the front of the floor said:
" America, my native country, was unknown to the white man a little more than 300 years ago-but now, what is her history? It is but 217 years since our pilgrim fathers fled from their homes, in the storm of persecution, and found, in this then wilderness world, an asylum, a peaceful retreat. It was for Christian liberty they fled; and it was then that they first sowed in this soil those seeds of freedom which have since so fertilized our happy land. Though England held her sovereign power to rule awhile, her dominion was but short; and we bless the glorious day when our patriot fathers, aroused by noble indignation, broke the chains of tyranny that were too long imposed upon them; and then liberty, sweet liberty, smiled on all these states. But what has our freedom cost? The toils, the sufferings and the death, of many a valiant friend of human rights. Their sacri- fices dearly purchased for us the gift which we can not too highly value. And will you, our fathers now, continue to guard her sacred rights till we, your sons, shall stand up in your stead, to defend her cause? Yes? I know you will; and though war and tumult rage both north and south of us (alluding to the insurrection in Canada, and the Indian warfare in Florida), yet on us shall peace and plenty still continue to smile."
After this, a hymn was sung by all the children stand- ing, to the air of God save the King, the first stanza of which was as follows :
" My country !- 'tis of thee, Sweet land of liberty, Of thee I sing.
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Land of the pilgrim's pride. Land where my fathers died, From every mountain side, Let freedom ring."
Such are the sentiments of love of country, venera- tion for its founders, and respect for those who, follow- ing after, established its independence, that are every- where implanted in the infant mind of America. The subsequent exercises of their school books, reiterate all this in later youth, and early initiation into political doctrines follows soon after, by pupils, almost as soon as they have completed their studies, becoming members of Young Men's Conventions, held from time to time, to declare adherence to certain political principles, and organize plans of action. The impressions thus become so deep and permanent, that there is no subsequent danger of their obliteration; for in politics, as in morals and religion, more depends on the first impressions planted in early youth, and the frequent repetition of them, from thence to manhood in one unbroken chain, than upon the reasoning powers of individuals; and thus it is that national faiths, habits and forms of government, are so continuously preserved from generation to genera- tion.
The annual expense of this Asylum, for feeding, clothing and educating 100 orphans, is about 3,000 dol- lars, or £600 annually; being about 50 cents, or two shillings sterling, per head, per week; and the funds for this are readily obtained by subscriptions in the city, as the Asylum is a favorite charity. Every suitable op- portunity is taken to place the children out at the proper age in advantageous situations in life; and hitherto the institution has been a great blessing to the destitute objects of its care, and an honor to its directors and supporters.
The last of the public institutions we saw in Albany, was the Museum, which has been spoken of as one of the best in the country. We found it inferior, however, to any we had yet seen, in the limited extent and variety
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of its collections, as well as in the defective arrangement, and inferior quality of almost everything belonging to it.
On Sunday, the 15th of July, we left Albany, at nine in the morning, on a visit to the establishment of the religious sect called the Shakers, at Niskayuna, a dis- tance of eight miles from Albany, in a northwest direc- tion. Having a comfortable, open carriage, and a good pair of horses, our journey was easy and agreeable. A great part of the road was bordered with a rich variety of wood, and other parts showed extended tracts of cul- tivation; while the range of the Catskill mountains, to the south, formed an interesting feature in the general picture. The sky was bright-the heat not oppressive- the thermometer at 80 deg. in the town, and 75 deg. in the country, and the perfume of the shrubs and flowers delightful.
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