USA > Ohio > Cuyahoga County > Cleveland > Early history of Cleveland, Ohio : including papers and other matter relating to the adjacent country : with biographical notices of the pioneers and surveyors > Part 20
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372
GILMAN BRYANT.
LETTER OF GILMAN BRYANT.
MOUNT VERNON, OHIO, June 1st, 1857.
ALEXANDER C. ELLIOTT, Esq .- Sir : According to your request, I will inform you about the first settle- ment of Cleveland, Ohio, according to my best recollection.
My father, DAVID BRYANT, and myself, landed at Cleveland in June, 1797. . There was but one family there at that time, viz: LORENZO CARTER, who lived in a log cabin, under the high sand bank, near the Cuyahoga river, and about thirty rods below the bend of the river, at the west end of Superior street. I went up the hill to view the town. I found one log cabin erected by the surveyors, on the south side of Superior street, near the place where the old Mansion house formerly stood. There was no clear- ed land, only where the logs were cut to erect the cabin, and for fire-wood. I saw the stakes at the corners of the lots, among the logs and large oak and chestnut trees. We were on our way to a grind- stone quarry, near Vermillion river. We made two trips that summer, and stopped at Mr. CARTER'S each time. In the fall of 1797, I found Mr. RODOLPHUS EDWARDS in a cabin under the hill, at the west end of Superior street. We made two trips in the summer of 1798. I found Major SPAF- FORD in the old surveyor's cabin. The same fall Mr. DAVID CLARK erected a cabin on the other side
-
373
FIRST DISTILLERY.
of the street, and about five rods north-west of SPAFFORD'S. We made two trips in the summer of 1799, and in the fall, father and myself returned to Cleveland, to make a pair of mill stones for Mr. WILLIAMS, about five miles east of Cleveland, near the trail to Hudson. We made the mill stones on the right hand side of the stream as you go up, fifteen or twenty feet from the stream, and about half a mile from the mill, which was under a high bank, and near a fall in said stream of forty or fifty feet. If any person will examine, they will find the remains and pieces of the rock, the said stones were made of. The water was conveyed to the mill in a dugout trough, to an under-shot wheel about twelve feet over, with one set of arms, and buckets fifteen inches long, to run inside of the trough, which went down the bank at an angle of forty-five degrees, perhaps. The dam was about four rods above the fall; the mill stones were three and half feet in diameter, of gray rock. On my way from the town to Mr. WILLIAMS' mill, I found the cabin of Mr. R. EDWARDS, who had left the town, about three miles out ; the next cabin was Judge KINGSBURY's, and the next old Mr. GUNN, thence half a mile to Mr. WIL- LIAMS' mill.
On my return to Cleveland in the fall of 1800, my father and myself came there to stay. He took a still from Virginia, and built a still-house under the sand bank, about twenty rods above L. CARTER'S
374
A PIONEER DANCE.
and fifteen feet from the river. The house was made of hewed logs, twenty by twenty-six, one and a half stories high. We took the water in a trough, out of some small springs which came out of the bank, into the second story of the house, and made the whisky out of wheat.
My father purchased ten acres of land about one- fourth of a mile from the town plat, on the bank of the river, east of the town. In the winter of 1800 and spring of 1801, I helped my father to 'clear five acres on said lot, which was planted with corn in the spring. Said ten acres were sold by my father in the spring of 1802, at the rate of two dollars and fifty cents per acre. Mr. SAMUEL HUNTINGTON came to Cleveland in the spring of 1801, and built a hewed log house near the bank of the Cuyahoga river, about fifteen rods south-east of the old survey- ors's cabin, occupied by Mr. SPAFFORD.
I attended the 4th of July ball, mentioned in the History of Ohio. I waited on Miss DOAN, who had just arrived at the Corners, four miles east of town. I was then about seventeen years of age, and Miss DOAN about fourteen. I was dressed in the then style-a gingham suit-my hair queued with one and a half yards of black ribbon, about as long and as thick as a corncob, with a little tuft at the lower end; and for want of pomatum, I had a piece of candle rubbed on my hair, and then as much flour sprinkled on, as could stay without falling off. 'I
375
A DOG FEAST.
had a good wool hat, and a pair of brogans that would help to play "Fisher's Hornpipe," or "High Bettie Martin," when I danced. When I went for Miss DOAN I took an old horse ; when she was ready I rode up to a stump near the cabin, she mounted the stump and spread her under petticoat on "Old Tib " behind me, secured her calico dress to keep it clean, and then mounted on behind me. I had a fine time !
The Indians scattered along the river, from five to eight miles apart, as far as the falls; they hauled their canoes above high water mark and covered them with bark, and went from three to five miles back into the woods. In the spring, after sugar making, they all packed their skins, sugar, bear's oil, honey and jerked venison, to their crafts. They frequently had to make more canoes, either of wood or bark, as the increase of their furs, &c., required. They would descend the river in April, from sixty to eighty families, and encamp on the west side of the river for eight or ten days, take a drunken scrape and have a feast. I was invited to partake of a white dog. They singed part of the hair off and chopped him up, and made a large kettle of soup. They erected a scaffold, and offered a large wooden bowlful, placed on the scaffold, to " Mani- tou," and then they presented me with one fore-paw well boiled, and plenty of soup, the hair still be- tween the toes. I excused; they said, "a good
376
SETTLERS MUCH DISCOURAGED.
soldier could eat such." They said "God was a good man and would not hurt anybody." They, in offering the sacrifice to Manitou, prayed to him for their safety over the lake, and that they might have a good crop of corn, &c.
Yours, &c., GILMAN BRYANT.
CLEAVELAND, OHIO, 17th July, 1800.
Gen. M. CLEAVELAND, Canterbury, Conn.,
to be left at Norwich Post Office.
Dear Sir :- On my arrival at this place, I found Major SPAFFORD, Mr. LORENZO CARTER and Mr. DAVID CLARK, who are the only inhabitants residing in the city, have been anxiously waiting with expec- tations of purchasing a number of lots, but when I produced my instructions, they were greatly disap- pointed, both as to price and terms. They assured me, that they had encouragement last year, from Colonel THOMAS SHELDON ; that they would have lands at ten dollars per acre, and from Major AUSTIN at twelve dollars at most; which they think would be a generous price, for such a quantity as they wish to purchase. You will please excuse me, for giving my opinion, but it really seems to me good policy to sell the city lots, at a less price than twenty-five dol- lars, (two acres) or I shall never expect to see it settled.
377
SETTLERS DISSATISFIED.
Mr. CARTER was an early adventurer, has been of essential advantage to the inhabitants here, in help- ing them to provisions in times of danger and scarcity, has never experienced any gratuity from the company, but complains of being hardly dealt by, in sundry instances. He has money to pay for about thirty acres, which he expected to have taken, if the price had met his expectation ; but he now declares that he will leave the purchase, and never own an acre in New Connecticut. Major SPAFFORD has stated his wishes to the company, in his letter of January last, and I am not authorized to add any thing. He says he has no idea of giving the present price, for sixteen or eighteen lots. He contemplated building a house, and making large improvements this season, which he thinks would indemnify the company fully, in case he should fail to fulfill his contract; and he is determined to remove to some other part of the purchase immedi- ately, unless he can obtain better terms than I am authorized to give. Mr. CLARK is to be included in the same contract, with Major SPAFFORD, but his circumstances will not admit of his making any advances. I have requested the settlers not to leave the place, until I can obtain further information from the Board, and request you to consult General CHAMPION, to whom I have written, and favor me * * with despatches by first mail.
Mr. EDWARDS has gone to see the Governor. Crops
25
378
SCARCITY OF MONEY.
extraordinary good, and settlers healthy and in good spirits. They are increasing as fast as can be expected, but the universal scarcity of cash, in this back part of the country, renders it extremely diffi- cult to sell for money, and the vast quantity of land in market will prevent a speedy sale of our lands. The people have been encouraged that the Company would have a store erected, and receive provisions in payment for lands, for money is not to be had. Mr. TILLITSON, from Lyme, wants two, one hundred acre lots, and would pay for one in hand if horses, cattle or provisions would answer, or would take them on credit, if he could have sufficient time to turn his property, but has no cash to advance.
I have given a sketch of these circumstances, in order that you may understand my embarrassments, and expect you will give me particular directions how to proceed, and also, whether I shall make new contracts with settlers, whose old ones are forfeited. They seem unwilling to rely on the generosity of the company, and want new writings. *
I have the pleasure of your brother's company at this time. He held his first talk with the Smooth Nation, at Mr. CARTER's this morning. Appearances are very promising. I flatter myself he will do no discredit to his elder brother, in his negotiations with the aborigines.
I am, dear sir, with much esteem, yours, &c.,
ยท TURHAND KIRTLAND.
379
SAMUEL HUNTINGTON.
SAMUEL HUNTINGTON, Esq., of Norwich, Conn., visited Ohio, reaching Youngstown in July. He made a horseback tour through the settlements on the Reserve, keeping daily memoranda, which are preserved by his descendants, at Painesville.
In this diary he says: " Thursday, October 7th, 1800. - Left DAVID ABBOTT's mill, (Willoughby,) and came to Cleveland. Stayed at CARTER's at night. Day pleasant and cool. Friday, 3d .- Ex- plored the city and town; land high and flat, covered with white oak. On the west side of the river is a long, deep stagnant pond of water, which produces fever and ague, among those who settle near the river. There are only three families near the point, and they have the fever. Saturday, 4th .- Sailed out of the Cuyahoga, along the coast, to ex- plore the land west of the river. Channel at the mouth about five feet deep. On the west side is a prairie, where one hundred tons of hay might be cut each year. A little way back is a ridge, from which the land descends to the lake, affording a prospect indescribably beautiful. In the afternoon went to WILLIAMS' grist and saw mill, (Newburg,) which are nearly completed. Sunday 5th .- Stayed at WILLIAMS'. Monday, 6th .- Went through Towns 7, 6 and 5, of Range 11, to Hudson."
Mr. HUNTINGTON continued his journeyings during the season, embracing the settlements on the Ohio as low as Marietta. Here he made the acquaintance
380
TIMOTHY DOAN.
of Governor ST. CLAIR, the Territorial Judges, and principal men of Ohio. He returned to Norwich, Conn., in the fall, having concluded to become a citizen of New Connecticut.
The ridge, of which so many of the first comers speak, is a natural terrace or bluff, the edge of the upland country, fronting towards and parallel with the lake, from which side it has the appearance of an elevated range. It extends easterly from New- burg to and beyond Painesville, the crest rising from one hundred and sixty to two hundred feet above lake level, broken only by steep and deep gullies where the streams pass through it.
1801.
" TIMOTHY DOAN arrived at Cleveland in the spring, and in the fall removed to Euclid. He died in the fall of 1828, at the age of seventy. SAMUEL HAMILTON and family settled at Newburg. About five years after he was drowned in Buffalo creek, on his return from a visit to the east. At Cleveland the people were unusually healthy. This year became notorious, on account of a Fourth of July celebration and ball. It was held in one end of Major CARTER's double log house, on the hill near the corner of Union and Superior lanes. JOHN WOOD, BEN WOOD and R. H. BLINN were managers. Major SAMUEL JONES was chief musician and master
381
THE FIRST STORE.
of ceremonies. About a dozen ladies and twenty gentlemen constituted the company. Notwithstand- ing the floors were of rough puncheons, and their best beverage was made of maple sugar, hot water and whisky, probably no celebration of American independence in this city was ever more joyous than this.
ELISHA NORTON opened a store in CARTER's house, under the hill, and DAVID BRYANT built a log distil- lery, on the ground afterwards occupied by MAT- THEW WILLIAMSON as a tannery. [The distillery stood where M. B. SCOTT's warehouse is now.]
Previous to this year, the people had no laws but those of GOD and their own consciences, yet they lived in great harmony. A bond of union existed in their common pleasures, as well as in their misfortunes. During the days of club law, very few disputes occurred, such was the universal good feel- ing that prevailed. Not a single case of Lynch law occurred from 1796 to the organization of the State government, and only one of "club law." This happened between Major CARTER and the Indians, and was caused by alcohol.
Both old LEATHERSTOCKING and the red men, were very good and generous friends in the absence of this demon." (Judge BARR.)
The Rev. JOSEPH BADGER, a soldier of the Revo- lution, came to the Reserve in 1800, as a missionary from the Connecticut Missionary Society. He was
382
THE FIRST LAWYER.
at Cleveland on the 18th of August, 1801, when he lodged at LORENZO CARTER'S. On the 6th of Sep- tember, he says: "We swam our horses across the Cuyahoga by means of a canoe, and took an Indian path up the lake; came to Rocky river, the banks of which were very high, on the west side almost per- pendicular. While cutting the brush to open a way for our horses, we were saluted by the song of a large yellow rattlesnake, which we removed out of our way."
SPAFFORD's re-survey of the streets and lanes of city took place in November. He planted fifty-four posts of oak, about one foot square, at the principal corners, for which he charged fifty cents each, and fifty cents, for grubbing out a tree at the north-east corner of the Square.
SAMUEL HUNTINGTON, who was an attorney, removed with his family to Youngstown early in the summer of 1801. He soon determined to establish himself at Cleveland, and contracted with AMOS SPAFFORD to superintend the erection of a well built block house, of considerable pretensions near the bluff south of Superior street, in rear of the site of the American House. HUNTINGTON Was then about thirty-five years of age. He was the protege and adopted heir of his uncle and name-sake, Governor SAMUEL HUNTINGTON, of Connecticut. His education was very complete for those times. It would appear from his correspondence with French-
383
HUNTINGTON'S ADVANCEMENT.
men, his knowledge of the French language, and the polish of his manners, that he had spent some time in France. His family consisted of his wife, Miss MARGARET COBB, a companion and governess; and two sons, JULIUS C. and COLBERT, who still survive. HUNTINGTON belonged to the more moderate repub- licans, and does not appear to have lost the confidence of the Federalists. Governor ST. CLAIR soon ap- pointed him Lieutenant Colonel of the Trumbull county regiment, and in January, 1802, one of the Justices of the Quorum. The only time when the Governor is known to have visited the Reserve, was at the trial of McMAHON, at Youngstown, charged with the murder of an Indian named SPOTTED GEORGE, at the Salt Springs. Mr. HUNTINGTON acted as counsel in the case, but on which side, I am not informed.
The extreme Jeffersonian Republicans, like JOHN S. EDWARDS and Judge TOD, looked favorably upon HUNTINGTON, who was ambitious and popular; and who entered at once upon the career of a public man. He took by common consent, priority on the bench of Quarter Sessions. In November, 1802, he was elected a delegate to the convention to form a State constitution, which appears to have been well received by ST. CLAIR. After its adoption, he was elected Senator from Trumbull county, and on the meeting of the first Legislature at Chillicothe, was made Speaker. On the 2d of April, 1803, he was
-
384
HAIR BLANKETS.
appointed a Judge of the Supreme Court, his com- mission, which was signed by Governor TIFFIN, being the first issued under the authority of the State of Ohio. A character so prominent and suc- cessful, no doubt, had a favorable influence upon the place of his residence, which, in 1801, was nearly depopulated. In person he was small, but exceed- ingly active. His manners were affable, though somewhat after the French style, in business his habits were correct and efficient.
1802.
CARTER built a frame house on the hill west of Water street and north of Superior Lane, which was burned almost as soon as finished. AMOS SPAFFORD put up the second frame house, near the west end of Superior street, on the south side. In the latter part of July Mr. BADGER again took Cleveland in his circuit. He does not give a very favorable report of the morals of the place.
"Mr. BURKE's family in Euclid, had been in this lone situation over three years. The woman had been obliged to spin and weave cattle's hair, to make covering for her children's bed. From thence I went to Cleveland, visited the only two families, and went on to Newburg, where I preached on the Sabbath. There were five families here, but no apparent piety. They seemed to glory in their infidelity. On the way
385
THE FIRST ELECTION.
from Cleveland here, I fell in company with a man from Hudson, who wanted to know if I was going to form a church there. I replied, if I found suitable characters I should. 'Well,' said he, 'if you admit old Deacon THOMPSON, (and some others,) it shall not stand, I will break it down and have an Episco- pal church.'"
In 1802 the Territorial Legislature had so far prevailed over the old system, that citizens of the townships were allowed to elect trustees, appraisers, supervisors of highways, fence viewers, overseers of the poor, and constables, viva voce. They had not yet attained to the election of justices of the peace and militia officers. At the February term of the Quarter Sessions, it was ordered that the house of JAMES KINGSBURY be the place for holding the first town meeting in Cleveland. Here is the result of the first election held in "Cleaveland, Trumbull county, Ohio."
"Agreeably to order of the Court of General Quarter Sessions, the inhabitants of the town of Cleaveland met at the house of JAMES KINGSBURY, Esq., the 5th day of April, A. D. 1802, for a town meeting, and chose
Chairman,
Town Clerk,
RODOLPHUS EDWARDS.
NATHANIEL DOAN.
Trustees,
AMOS SPAFFORD, Esq., TIMOTHY DOAN, WM. W. WILLIAMS.
Appraisers of Houses, SAMUEL, HAMILTON, ELIJAH GUN.
386
AN ATTACK BY WOLVES.
Lister, EBENEZER AYRS. Supervisors of Highways, SAM'L HUNTINGTON, Esq., NATH'L DOAN, SAM'L HAMILTON. Overseers of the Poor, WILLIAM W. WILLIAMS, SAMUEL HUNTINGTON, Esq. Fence Viewers, LORENZO CARTER, NATHAN CHAPMAN. Constables, EZEKIEL HAWLEY, RICHARD CRAW.
A true copy of the proceedings of the inhabitants of Cleaveland at their town meeting, examined per me,
NATHANIEL DOAN, Town Clerk."
According to a widely circulated tradition, Mr. HUNTINGTON, about this time, came near being de- voured by wolves, not far from the Euclid street station. He was coming in from Painesville, on horseback, alone, and after dark, floundering through a swamp, which occupied what is now the corner of Willson avenue and Euclid street. A gang of hun- gry wolves had taken up their nights lodging in this swamp, who made a combined attack upon the judge and his horse. His only defensive weapon was an umbrella, with which he charged them right and left. The horse, in a terrible fright, performed his part nobly, by a rapid movement along the trail towards town, outstripping the ferocious animals,. and brought up, with his rider, at the door of the double log house south of Superior street.
387
LANDS SELL SLOWLY.
At the August term of the Quarter Sessions, LORENZO CARTER and AMOS SPAFFORD were each licensed to keep a tavern at Cleveland on paying four dollars. GEORGE TOD, (afterwards Judge TOD) of Youngstown, was appointed appraiser of taxable property.
The sale of the six reserved townships, and of the city lots in Cleveland, did not come up to the ex- pectations of the Company. City lots had receded from fifty dollars cash in hand, to twenty-five dollars on time. The treasury of the association, instead of being filled by the proceeds of sales, had to be re- plenished by the disagreeable process of assessments. By individual exertion, the private owners under the previous drafts, had disposed of limited amounts of lands, on terms which did not create very brilliant expectations of the speculation. In truth, the most fortunate of the adventurers realized a very meagre profit, and more of them were losers than gainers.
Those who were able to make their payments and keep the property for their children, made a fair and safe investment. It was not until the next genera- tion came to maturity, that lands on the Reserve began to command good prices, Taxes, trouble and interest, had been long accumulating. Such of the proprietors as became settlers, secured an excellent home at a cheap rate, and left as a legacy to their heirs, a cheerful future.
At this time, however, it was considered better
388
THE THIRD DRAFT.
for the property to be wholly in private hands, and on the 28th of December, 1802, another draft was made of the six townships, which had been divided into ninety parcels. This included all of the lands east of the Cuyahoga, except a few city lots in Cleveland. Some had been sold, but most of them were assorted to the stockholders as part of the draft.
The names of the original owners are here given.
ORIGINAL OWNERS OF LOTS IN CLEVELAND BY DRAFT, OR FIRST PURCHASE.
NUMBER OF CITY LOTS, 220.
SAMUEL HUNTINGTON, 1 to 6, 61, 75, 76, 78, 80 to 84, 190 to
194, 206, 210 CALEB ATWATER
7 to 24, 31 to 36
LORENZO CARTER
25 to 30, 54, 197 to 205
EPHRAIM ROOT,-
37 to 47
ELIJAH BOARDMAN and others,
.48
EZEKIEL HAWLEY,
49 to 51 DAVID CLARK,
52 and 53
JOSEPH HOWLAND,
55 to 57, 62
CHARLES DUTTON,
.58
JAMES KINGSBURY,
4 59 and 60
SAMUEL W. PHELPS,
JOSEPH PERKINS and others,
64 to 72
1 AUSTIN & HUNTINGTON, 73 and 74
WYLES and others, - 77
JUDSON CANFIELD and others, 79
SAMUEL P. LORD, Jr.,
85 to 87, 97 to 99, 211 and 212
WILLIAM SHAW,. 88 to 96, 100 to 133
134 to 138 SAMUEL PARKMAN,
I
1
1
I _63
1 I 1
1
1
1
1
1
1
I
1
1
389
FALL ELECTION, 1803.
JOHN BOLLS and others, .139 to 144
ASHER MILLER,. 145 to 153, 156 to 160
EPHRAIM STOW and others, 154 to 155
MARTIN SHELDON and others, 161 and 162, 212
AMOS SPAFFORD, 179 to 181, 187 to 190
OLIVER PHELPS, 170 to 177, 182 to 190, 213 to 215, 217 to 220
RICHARD W. HART and others,- 195 and 196
1803.
" A healthy year, marked by increased emigration and the organization of the state of Ohio. The first indictment found on the Reserve was against Mr. CARTER, the pioneer, for an assault upon JAMES HAMILTON, of Newburg. A second frame house was erected by Major SPAFFORD on the brow of the hill, between Superior and Vineyard Lanes, at the end of Superior street. Postmaster DANIEL WORLEY once occupied the same building as a residence."-(BARR.)
ELECTION OF 1803-STATEMENT OF WARREN YOUNG, ESQ., OF WARREN, MARCH 27th, 1848.
"I am unable to find the canvass sheet of this year. The election was held in Cleveland, Oct. 11th, and there were twenty-two votes given. For the two representatives, DAVID ABBOTT had twenty - two votes ; EPHRAIM QUINBY, nineteen ; AMOS SPAFFORD, one; and DAVID HUDSON, one. TIMOTHY DOAN, NATHANIEL DOAN and JAMES KINGSBURY, Judges of
390
ANOTHER STORE.
election. RODOLPHUS EDWARDS and STEPHEN GIL- BERT, Clerks. Sworn in by TIMOTHY DOAN, Justice of the Peace.
BRYANT's log distillery, of course, attracted the attention of such Senecas, Hurons, Chippeways, and Delawares, as had a weakness for fire-water. ALEXANDER CAMPBELL, who was doubtless a Scotch- man, saw that here was a good place to traffic with the stoic of the woods. He built a rude store a little further up the hill, near the spring, but more towards the junction of Union and Mandrake Lanes. St. Clair street was an improvement of much later times. The same spring, afterwards supplied the tannery of SAMUEL and MATTHEW WILLIAMSON'S es- tablishment, on lot 202, the vats of which were directly across River street.
In this cluster of log shanties, the principal traffic of Cleveland was transacted. Here the red man became supremely happy over a very small quantity of raw whisky, for which he paid the proceeds of many a hunt. If anything remained of his stock of skins after paying for his whisky, the beads, ribbons, and trinkets, of Mr. CAMPBELL's store absorbed the entire stock. Here the squaws bartered and coquet- ted with the trader, who in their eyes was the most important personage in the country. Here the wild hunter, in his dirty blanket, made the woods ring with his savage howls, when exhilerated with drink. He shone forth for a moment in his native barbarity, ferocious alike against friend and foe.
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