USA > Ohio > Ashtabula County > History of Ashtabula County, Ohio > Part 5
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resting upon the northern slope of this ridge, the winds gradually carrying the beached sauds over the crest of the ridge into the swamp-basin, and in time bury- ing it beneath the constantly-accumulating sandy deposit." " This ridge, with its mass unstratificd and without rounded, water-worn pebbles, cannot be the slow ac- cumulations of a water-washed beach, nor can the materials be deposited in water, which would rot and stratify them." There are some evidences that, even after this ridge was formed, great bodies of ice still existed in the lake. For instance, there are fractures or upheavals of the rock-shales, which are below the surface, which show the effect of a mighty force. Such fractures are found near the depot of the Lake Shore railroad at Ashtabula, and in the valley of the Hubbard run. Professor Newberry says, "It is manifest that such a local break in the shale could be caused by neither an upheaval nor the subsidence of the strata. A vast mass of ice moving on from the north, and impinging on the exposed strata of the shale with sufficient power to cause a part of the strata to buckle upwards at some point where the sliding motion was arrested, is alone competent to produce the condition of things here seen. The movement of a glacier, like a sheet of ice, is the ouly kuown force to produce such a result." The records of icebergs in the old lake at comparatively recent cpochs are also left in the granite boulders scattered along the north slope of both of these ridges, generally not upon the surface, but so
# By Rev. S. D. Peet.
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HISTORY OF ASHTABULA COUNTY, OHIO.
slightly buried that they are uncovered by the plow in cultivation. This south ridge, throughout Ashtabula County, appears, says Professor Newberry, " to mark the line where the outer margin of the ice scooped out of the lake-basin on to the strata which it had not force enough to remove." The yellow clay and the sand ridges to the north mark subsequent chapters in this, recent geological history. The ridges north of this are composed of sand and gravel. The spaces between the north and south ridge and the north ridge and the lake present to the eye the appearance of level terraces.
OTIIER PORTIONS OF THE COUNTY.
The rock which composes the substratum of Ashtabula County is designated by geologists as the "Erie shale." It is composed entirely of soft, bluc alumi- nous slate, often weathering red on exposure, and finally decomposing into a stiff yellow clay. This shale gives a peculiar character to the topography of the county. South of the lake ridges the surface is one broad level plain of stiff clay, except as it has been eroded by water or covered by occasional deposits of gravel. Where the streams are rapid they form deep and narrow gorges, cutting down almost precipitously, sometimes one hundred fect into the shale. The stiff clay soil derived from the decomposition of this shale forms a fine and undulating grazing country, which, if properly under-drained, would be very productive.
Fortunately, the surface of the county is sufficiently undulating to render under-draining practicable. There is no county in the State where a systematic resort to this improvement would result in greater benefit. Such a soil, when drained, is not excelled by any for the cultivation of apples, pears, quinces, and grapes, and for this result the climate in proximity to the lake is especially favor- able. The geological structure of the county in other parts is also the cause of the peculiarities of soil. There is a searcity of building-stone in the north part of the county, in the south part it is more abundant. " In the east part of Wil- liamsfield is a high ridge, capped with the conglomerate rock," which has supplied the largest part of the stone used in building in that vicinity. The Cuyahoga shales underlying the conglomerate are the surface rocks in the central part of Wayne, and the western parts of Hartsgrove and Windsor. The latter two townships are marked by long stretches of level tenacious clay soil. In Wayne these shales are more silicious, and so the soil is more gravelly. The Berca grit is found in Ashtabula County ; its outcrop extends through the centre of Hartsgrove and east of the centre of Windsor. Its position is marked by a ridge rising towards the west, covered with fragments of sandstone; the best exposures are at Windsor Mills, where the stream has cut a channel forty feet deep, and where stone had been quarried for many years. The high ridge cast of the stream is composed of the same rock exposed in the gorge. When systematic quarrying shall take place, and railroads are constructed, the whole county will be supplied with stone from this source, and the extensive region along the lake-shore will draw an abundant supply. The Bedford shale, underlying the Berea stone, is found in the western part of the county, and forms the basis of a tenacious clay soil. Thus we sec the geological structure of the county is really at the basis of its topography, and gives character to its soil as well as direction to its streams.
VARYING ALTITUDES OF THE DIVIDING RIDGE.
The direction of the dividing ridge is a subject of interest. "The actual crest of the divide forms a singularly tortuous line, which exhibits at different points remarkable variations of altitude; for example, beginning on the Pennsylvania line, east of Ashtabula County, the head-waters of the Chenango reach within ten miles of Lake Erie, and drain a surface which has an altitude of over six hundred feet above the lake. Thence the crest of the water-shed strikes south- westerly through Ashtabula County, and falling down to a level of three hundred and sixty-three feet at the summit of the A. Y. P. R. R., in Orwell; thence it sweeps with a sharp curve nearly at the same horizon around the head-waters of Grand river, far down in Trumbull county. Here it turns almost due north, coming again within ten miles of the lake in the northern part of Geauga county, and attaining at Little Mountain an altitude of seven hundred and fifty feet. There is one peculiarity about this ridge,-that the wettest lands are upon its summit. The reason for this can be understood by a little thoughtfulness. The drainage of the county is formed by the sides of the ridge. As the streams make their way, they are likely to sweep off in their course all obstructions, but upon the summit of the ridge no such streams exist ; consequently swauips and the wet clay soil, with heavy forests, are here found. The Conneaut lake, near the Pennsylvania line, and the wet lands in Pierpont and Dorset, are formed in this way, while the swamps between Jefferson and Ashtabula are caused by the water which has been set back by the south ridge along the lake.
The high lands or hills which form the peculiarities of the southern part of the county, where wide valleys intervene, quay also be understood by the geological history.
CLIMATE AND SOIL.
The climate of this county also deserves our attention. There is no doubt but that the advantages of the county in this respect are great. The proximity of the lake has an effect to prevent those extremes of cold and heat which are pecu- liar to some localities. It has been proved, by long experience in agriculture, that the more solid grains can be raised here with as much certainty as in colder regions; but at the same time fruits which are dependent on a mild climate can be grown abundantly. Even in its wild state it was discovered that this county was distinguished for its variety of fruits and foliage. It was then indeed a wil- derness, which showed how thick and strong the combined elements of soil and climate had served to make the native growth. At that time the ridges were covered with wide-spreading chestnut and walnut, and other trees which are pecu- liar to a sandy soil. The hills and gorges were overgrown with a dense mass of hemlock and pine, which rooted themselves strongly in the sand and rock. In the interior the land, more level and composed of clay and abundantly watered, was covered by a dense forest of beech, maple, oak and ash, elm and white woods. Iu the swamp there was a dense jungle of alder-bushes, mingled with red-elm, rock-maple, and black-ash. One can at this date form but a poor idea of the density of these forests and the massiveness of the great monarchs which dwelt amid their shadows. Occasionally a stump may now be seen where some gigantic chestnut stood, giving us a slight indication of the size to which they grew, but those who contended with them for the mastery of the soil knew best their strength. It is narrated that six men surrounded one great monster with axe in hand, and swung freely the glittering blade; when at last the monarch fell twelve men mounted the stump and drank a bumper to the success of the owner.
FAUNA.
Animals which in other countries had long been extinct were, when first settlers arrived, the common habitants of this region, and their habits became familiar to those who early made their residence here. Bears and wolves were numerous, as indeed were deer and elk. The panther and the wild-cat were occasionally met with. Wild turkeys were also abundant in the forest, and wild geese and ducks in the streams, and poisonous serpents had their dens in various places.
SCENERY.
The scenery of Ashtabula County, notwithstanding the depth of the forest which covered it, was even at an early day attractive. The streams, which are for the most part small and gently-flowing rivulets, were attended with valleys, which gradually rosc upon either side, that in the primitive wilderness were pic- turesque and beautiful. The variety of scenery and vegetation, soil and climate, was at this time correlated. Though different from New England in the absence of hill and valley, rock and rill, and a broken surface, yet the early settlers found even in the sullen forests and the hidden streams some deep, dark gorge, where steep precipices hung lowering over lonely glens, and the romantic element was not wanting. If there has never been the wide expanse of scenery which is pecu- liar to a prairie land, yet there are not wanting spots here where the vision stretches for miles away across intervening valleys, and the white form of house and the gleaming spire are mingled with the dark foliage of the distant prospect. The forest-clad region has been changed to fertile fields, the varied soil of sand and clay has been covered with grass and grain, the hills have been made the sites for houses and the level fields become the teeming place for harvests, and the inhabi- tants have found it a land of plenty, a home of comfort. Though at times there are stornis which sweep over this belt of land, burying everything in a depth of snow, making travel in winter difficult and sometimes dangerous, yet these are of short duration. The earlier months of the year are generally introduced with long rains, and spring often proves deceptive. It is early to promise and late to fulfill, and winter often lingers in the lap of spring. This delay, however, has its advantages, the promises for fruits and the prospects for the season becouring the better for the long delay. Taking it all in all, few regions are more favored than this. The hand of nature has from the beginning built up a structure here well adapted for the home of man. Each successive age lias approached nearer and nearer to the completion of the designs of the great Creator, when man should come upon the stage.
CHAPTER VI.
THE MOUND-BUILDERS .*
IT is well known that the continent of America was once the home of a race which has passed away, and of which the only record is in the works they have left behind them. Who this people were, whence they came, and whither they
# By Rev. S. D. Peet.
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HISTORY OF ASHTABULA COUNTY, OHIO.
went, have been the subject of research ; but an impenetrable mystery still hangs over them. All that can be said of them is that they were a race preceding the various tribes of Indians which history has come in contact with, and may be re- garded as strictly pre-historic.
The traces of an ancient population arc scattered from the Atlantic to the Pacific, and from the frozen regions of the North to the banks of the Gulf of Mexico, showing in many places that a numerous population long inhabited the land.
Ohio gives numerous evidences of such a race. Here, it would seem, was the chief seat of the ancient empire. With the exception of the remarkable people which inhabited the region of Mexico, Central America, and Peru, none have given evidences of a more advanced state than those who inhabited the banks of the Ohio.
It is worthy of notice, however, that in this State two classes of works have been discovered, which seem to indicate two modes of life quite distinct and sep- arate, and possibly two races as existing together. Throughout the southern counties the works are much more massive and distinct. They are also much more complicated and mysterious in their design, and evidently belonged to a people who were agricultural in their habits, and at the same time very religious ; a people ruled by a strong system of government, but one who had attained to a considerable degree of civilization.
The works at the north, on the other hand, are much simpler in their char- acter, and are mainly indicative of a military race. There. is an entire absenec of emblematic or religious significance to them. In these respects there is a striking resemblance between the structures of the State of New York and those on the northern counties of Ohio. In fact, the same kind of defenses have been discovered scattered throughout the borders of the great lakes and along the nu- merous streams which empty into them. They consist mainly of fortifications located on the summit of lofty hills, or on islands surrounded by marshes, or on the banks of streams whose waters might serve as a barrier, or, in fact, in any place whose nature presents a refuge or a defense. Associated with these, how- ever, there are, occasionally, traces of a more peaceable mode of life, such as trails which are supposed to have connected the different villages ; also pits which were used for the storing of grain or for the catching of game ; springs, wells, and various evidences of a peaceful life. There are also numerous graves, tumuli, and burial-grounds, which show that the same people who inhabited the land also have left the remains of their dead.
It may be difficult, in tracing the remains of these people, to separate the early from the later races. Whatever distinction may be made from the description of them must depend on the reader's knowledge of the races, for the record of all needs to be given at the same time, and without drawing the lines between the two classes.
Ashtabula County abounds in earthworks. These are located in various town- ships, and are much more numerous than has been generally supposed. Some of these have been discovered and are familiar to the citizens ; others, however, have had only a local notice, and are scarcely known except to the owner of the land on which they are situated. Others, too, once known to the first settlers, have become mostly obliterated by the passage of timc.
These works are generally situated on the banks of streams, or in such loca- tions as to have attracted attention, and are frequently surrounded with scenery of surpassing beauty.
The most remarkable of these ancient structures are the three which are located, one on the banks of the Conneaut, one on the Pymatuning, and a third near a stream called Phelps' creek, in the township of Windsor. All are works of defense, and are well chosen for this purpose. They are here described in suc- cessive order :
1. That at Conneaut is situated on the summit of a lofty hill, not far from the spot where the village now stands, and almost directly across the creek from the village cemetery. It is on an isolated spot, on a hill which has been left by some former change of the bed of the stream, and which now stands an abrupt eminence, its sides washed by the waters of the stream, which flows in silence underneath its very banks. A stecp ascent protects it on all sides. The only approach is up a gradual slope to the eastward, formed by the narrow strip which has been left by the wash of the waters. The height of the cminence is the same as that of the opposite bank and the surrounding country,-about seventy-five feet. From the summit there is presented a view of the valley, or gorge, of the surrounding hills and of the village. In the distance, to the eastward, the river bends around a point and disappears from sight, but leaves a bold bluff covered with lofty pine- trees and a rocky front. The spot is a romantie oue, and, situated almost within the sound of the roar of the surf of the lake, and in the midst of the deep valley of a swift-flowing stream, must have been a favorite resort to the ancient inhabi- tants. The only mark of artificial defense is found on the summit. This con-
sists of a simple earth-wall built on the very edge of the bluff, and following closely the very linc of the bluff. A ditch was on the inside of the wall, and the height of the wall may have been at one time five feet. Possibly a stockade may have surmounted it, making the inclosure doubly secure both from the natural and artificial defense. The work has been described by those who visited it at an early date. The land thus inclosed was perfectly level, and embraced an area of about two acres, triangular in shape. According to measurements taken at various times, the walls were on the northeast two hundred and fifty feet in length, and on the southwest two hundred and fifty feet, and on the southeast three hundred feet.
A single opening to the inclosure existed, and this was approached only from the level of the stream below by a narrow pathway, which leads up the tongue of land before mentioned. The work might have served for a defense to the various tribes of Indians which inhabited the region, or it may have been the residence of the ancient people called the mound-builders.
There is on the bank opposite this work, but farther down the stream, a large burial-mound, which might indicate that the occupants of this spot were of the more ancient race of original mound-builders.
This mound is beautifully situated on the very summit of the point of land where the river turns to the northward, and commands, as does the fort itself, an extensive view up and down the beautiful valley. The location of this mound was favorable as a lookout, and conuccted with the defense. The defense itself might have served as a signal-station, to warn against the approach of an enemy from the lake below.
There are also other mounds in this neighborhood, though they are of com- paratively small size. They were situated in the eastern part of the village. It is not improbable that the Book of Mormon has some connection with these mounds, and possibly may have been suggested by them. Its author, Rev. Mr. Spalding, lived in Conneaut, and the story is based on the common sen- timent that the descendants of the lost tribes buried their dead in large heaps, which caused the mounds so common in this country. Their arts and sciences and civilization account for all the curious antiquities found in North and South America. This theory of the lost tribes has long since been exploded.
There are burial-places belonging to the ancient races in the vicinity. An ancient burying-ground was situated a little west of the village, which occupied an area of about four acres. It was upon the bank of the stream, was in the form of an oblong, and was laid out in lots, exhibiting all the order and propriety of modern burials. These graves, disposed in straight rows with intervening spaces and alleys, covered the whole area, and were estimated to have been two or three thousand in number. They were examined as early as 1800, and were found to contain human bones, some of which were of a large size. The mounds, when opened, contained a quantity of charcoal, which may have been the remains of sacrificial fires, and fragments of earthenware, which may have been the rem- nants of vessels in which incense was offered. There have been also traces of ancient cultivation observed, the land once having been thrown up into squares and terraces and laid out into gardens.
2. That on the Pymatuning is situated in the southeastern part of the county, and has frequently been the subject of remark. It is located on an island, which at one time was surrounded by a deep morass. Its eastern side is washed by the run- ning waters of the Pymatuning. It is a work of defense. The area inclosed em- braces an acre and a half, but the islaud itself contains about three acres. The location is admirably chosen as a place of defense. It is at the upper end of the island, and the walls are built on the very edge of the rise of ground, and extend in a circular form around this portion of the island ; but a three-cornered strip of land is left out- side of the inclosure, to the southward. The island itself is twelve or fifteen feet above the morass, and its sides are gently sloping. But the walls of the fort were massive, and capable of protecting inmates from attack. These walls are double, having a deep ditch on the outside, a shallow depression between them, and a ditch again on the inside, and may have combined the double feature of a circular wall and of a stockade within the wall, with the ditch in this case on the outside. The dimensions, as given by the writer to the Smithsonian Institution, and pub- lished in their report of 1876, are as follows : "The outer wall is five feet high ; from the bottom of the outside ditch the inner wall is about two and a half feet high. The outside ditch two and a half feet deep from the level ; inner ditches at present are but slight depressions. The width from the outside to the middle ditch is nineteen feet, and to the inside ditch thirty-five feet; from the top of one wall to the top of the other it is fourteen and a half feet. It is two hundred and fifty fect across iu one direction, and three hundred feet in the other. The outer wall extends in a tangert towards the creek, leaving a space on the water side with a single wall. The space between the two arms of the outer walls is at present occupied by a mill and a mill-race. It is described, however, by a Mr. Fobes, one of the first settlers of Wayne, as surrounded by the outside wall, with
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HISTORY OF ASHTABULA COUNTY, OHIO.
the exception of one place, where seemed to be traces of an ancient stockade which crossed the stream. The remains of old logs have been discovered im- bedded in the stream, and so situated as to give the idea that they were tbe remains of an old stockade."
This earthwork may have been used by successive races,-the outer wall being the defense for the mound-builders and the inner walls the place of a stockade for later Indians. It is likely that the place was a favorite residence for both races. The beauty of the spot is remarkable,-a fine growth of forest-trees, a meadow across the brook, and an occasional copse that dots the lowlands. The gentle slope in the distance, and the massive trees that cover the hill-sides, and the running streams stealing round the island and through the meadow, all make a lovely spot. It is just the place for a happy and contented community. The fish in the stream, the wild animals in the forests, the fruits of the wildwood, consisting of chestnuts and hickory-nuts growing upon the hill-side, the cranberry and blueberry in the swanups, furnished food in abundance for the inhabitants, while the scenery around was pleasing to the eye, and yet the location was a safe one for defense. When first discovered there was a trail leading from the neighborhood of the lake-shore to this place, and from it across rude bridges and through the forests far to the southward.
There are near this work other evidences of ancient habitation. The farmers frequently plow up in their fields not only the usual relics of the stone age, such as arrow-heads, axes, and fleshers, but in several places they have turned up the remains of ancient hearths, or fire-beds, which have long lain buried beneath the accumulations of the forest. These fire-beds are formed by cobble-stones arranged in a circular form, but hollowing down in the centre, like a saucer, and are generally covered with débris of ashes and burnt bones and other remains. They may have been the hearths of the primitive homes which were erected on these beautiful hill-sides, but they now become expressive of the domestic life of the people which have long since passed away.
Professor M. C. Reed, assistant State geologist, mentions the fact that there is a mound on the bank of the stream, north of these works, which he designates either as a burial-mound or a lookout-mound.
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