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GENEALOGY COLLECTION
ALLEN COUNTY PUBLIC LIBRARY 3 1833 01149 6368
PIONEER DAYS OF OREGON HISTORY
By
S. A. CLARKE
VOLUME II
PORTLAND J. K. GILL COMPANY 1905
COPYRIGHT, 1905, BY S. A. CLARKE
BURR PRINTING HOUSE NEW YORK
Rosenatore 25,00 (2 VOIS)
1195C24
CONTENTS
CHAPTER
PAGE
XXXVII.
THE PRESBYTERIAN MISSION
369
XXXVIII.
CATHOLIC MISSIONS IN OREGON
393
XXXIX. ADVENTURES OF CAPTAIN BONNEVILLE.
396
XL. THE WILKES EXPEDITION
398
XLI. ELIJAH WHITE REDIVIVUS-THE FIRST
OVERLAND EMIGRATION, 1842.
406
XLII. STORY OF SOLOMON SMITH
418
XLIII.
WHITMAN'S MID-WINTER RIDE.
423
XLIV.
THE PEORIA PARTY-OR EMIGRATION
OF 1839.
442
XLV.
SETTLERS IN OREGON UP TO 1842
453
XLVI.
EMIGRATION OF 1842
458
XLVII. THE IMMIGRATION OF 1843
472
XLVIII. ON THE PLAINS IN 1844.
503
XLIX. INDIAN TROUBLES-1845-48.
511
L. HOME LIFE AT WHITMAN'S
520
LI. WAIILATPU MASSACRE, 1847
528
LII. IN CAPTIVITY.
536
LIII.
THE CAYUSE WAR
545
LIV.
ISTACHUS, THE CHRISTIANIZED INDIAN .. 568
LV.
IMMIGRATIONS FROM 1845 TO 1848
573
LVI. How BATTLE CREEK WAS NAMED
588
iv
Contents
CHAPTER PAGE
LVII. THE OREGON TITLE. 605
LVIII. PIONEER SHIP BUILDING-STORY OF THE STAR OF OREGON 616
LIX. EARLY POLITICAL HISTORY RELATING TO OREGON. 628
LX. THE PROVISIONAL GOVERNMENT.
647
LXI. PIONEER CURRENCY AND MAKING
OF
BEAVER MONEY
689
LXII.
JUDGE THORNTON'S MISSION
695
LXIII.
JO MEEK, THE LEGISLATIVE MESSENGER. 723
PIONEER DAYS OF OREGON HISTORY
CHAPTER XXXVII
THE PRESBYTERIAN MISSION
WE have briefly shown that the Presbyterians sent Rev. Samuel Parker, of Ithaca, New York, to look over the ground west of the Rocky Mountains, and that he made the first attempt in 1834, too late to join the fur traders' cara- van for that year. On the 14th of March, 1835, he left home, going via Buffalo, Pittsburg, Wheeling, Cincinnati, Louisville and St. Louis, where, on April 14th, he found waiting for him Dr. Marcus Whitman, appointed his asso- ciate. Mr. Parker was of mature age, precise ways, and solemn deportment, whereas Whitman was thirty-two years old, outspoken and free in manner, with energy that made obstacles yield. He had no superfluous refinement, so apt to become part of a minister's deportment, but was genuine in all things and as kind as he was vigorous. The wild spirit and overflowing ways of the hunter and trapper amused Whitman, while they terrified the more reverend Parker. They left the wagons at Fort Laramie August 1st and started with all their goods loaded on mules. They reached Green River rendezvous August 21st ; Captain Bridger had an iron arrow, three inches long, in his back, and a hunter had carried such an one in his shoulder for two years ; Whit- man extracted both, to the wonder of admiring natives.
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Pioneer Days of Oregon History
There were Flatheads and Nez Percés present, who were anxious to have such teachers as he to live among them. As result of this good impression, it was resolved that Whitman should return to secure more aid, while Mr. Parker went on to prepare the way, under escort of the Nez Percé Indians, who took him through in safety, though it was rather a tax on his physical powers. He had been ill, but improved on the journey and was well when he reached Walla Walla.
At Fort Walla Walla the kindly Pambrun feasted them on roasted duck, bread, butter, milk and sugar ; here he saw the treatment by which the great fur company retained the respect and confidence of the Indians and compared it with the conduct of the American mountain men he lately had been with, for the good trader ever taught them religious truth, as well as exercised judicious kindness. From there he went down the river in a canoe in charge of three Walla Walla Indians. It was wild work for the timid gentleman, running the swift rapids, but he survived it all. At the Cayuse camp, when it was explained that he came to teach them of the true God, they were much impressed. At The Dalles the Walla Wallas left him and Wascos became his escort. It was the middle of October; the rains had com- menced and the escort of strange savages through the great gorge made him feel a trifle timid, so they let him walk around the Cascades. As they went down the beautiful lower river they were surprised to see men on shore cutting and hauling logs with teams of cattle. Near by was a saw mill, and not far down the great river Vancouver waited to welcome him. He breakfasted at the cottages by the mill and dined at Vancouver ; McLoughlin told him that it should be his home as long as he chose to make it so. For men of
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The Presbyterian Mission
culture, in this far wilderness, it was well worth exercising hospitality to enjoy for awhile the companionship of a man of similar, or equal culture, from the living world. A jour- ney to Astoria and the seacoast gave him insight into In- dian nature by comparison of those he met down the river, with the Nez Percés and others of the far upper flow, for he remembered that while these last freely conferred favors in their welcome to strangers, those of the Lower Columbia never ceased to beg favors to be conferred upon them.
Association for the first time with the natives of the far in- terior gave a glamour to their lives with all the missionaries who came among them, as they were physically and intel- lectually superior to the fish eaters of the coast and lower river. Parker was charmed to believe that grace was the needed element between man and man, and if they knew and practised religion, after the Christian model, the red Indian would rival the most enlightened peoples.
November saw Mr. Parker domiciled for the winter, with a house at his command that was furnished with every com- fort and with all the attendance he could wish. There was the company library for intellectual enjoyment ; horses to be had for the asking, and, as he forcibly says: "In addi- tion to all these, and still more valuable, the society of gen- tlemen, enlightened, polished and sociable." Truly, Van- couver was the "lodge in some vast wilderness" of which a poet's rhapsody might dream-and never find, save in this farthest wild of Oregon. In November, taking advantage of a period of sunshine, McLoughlin equipped him for a journey up the Willamette, with a guide and all things necessary and desirable. Leaving their canoe at Champoeg, they took horses for a fifteen miles' ride to Lee's mission,
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Pioneer Days of Oregon History
from which Jason Lee rode with him to explore the region near and explain its natural advantages. He saw the set- tlements, the schools, the beautiful country, with its en- vironment of mountains ; then returned to Vancouver.
A chief from the Cascades came to see this teacher, sent from heaven ; he wished to have his people and his children taught to be civilized and know the true God. This could transform them to be doubly blest with wisdom and virtue, but went away in sorrow to know that the benison of grace must be deferred. There came a chief from The Dalles in similar frame of mind. Some white man had given him crude ideas of Sabbath duties ; his people had raised a flag and danced around it, praying and singing as they went- but it did no good; he was afraid it had made them a little worse. Later came a delegation, who said they had fol- lowed advice and left off the dancing ; they believed it was a help, for their prayers had been answered, as the deer hunt was a success. They thought they should have a teacher to preserve the prosperity they had won. It was thus that these well named "Children of Nature" sought light and wove together legends of the white man and his God.
In April Mr. Parker left Vancouver, with a lively sense of benefits conferred. No pay was taken for supplying his varied wants, for interpreters who accompanied him, for Indian crews who sent his canoe swiftly on its travels-all was the kindly gift of the royal company through its knightly representative. McLoughlin wished to have the Indians taught religious truths, so was glad to welcome a missionary.
On the 26th of April he was at Walla Walla, meeting Nez Percés and Cayuses, as he had promised them in the fall.
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The Presbyterian Mission
He remained there teaching them for two weeks, well ap- preciated, save by one old chief who declined to believe in a religion that would part him from any of his wives. He stoically concluded that as he had lived in sin all his life, it was useless to reform. He would have to take the chances. Mr. Parker made a mistake in objecting when an Indian grave was decorated with a cross. The sign of the cross seemed poisonous to Presbyterians, and such minor things as this came in time to make their lives a burden. Was it not a weak faith that would denounce its use as idol- atrous?
Mr. Parker had intended to cross the mountains and work back overland to the frontier, but changed his mind and de- termined to return and make the sea voyage, as he had the time to meet the annual ship. He spent some time choosing the site for the coming mission-Waiilatpu-where Whit- man settled that fall. Parker, as well as Wyeth, Bonne- ville, and others who visited there, considered the Nez Percés a superior people. The Cayuses were affiliated with them, so there was every reason to anticipate the hap- piest results from missions established for the two nations. Deflecting to the north, he visited Spokane, Colville, Okano- gan, experiencing some hardships; meeting Indians who re- sembled the Nez Percés and were their friends ; holding ser- vice among them, receiving everywhere the highest proof positive of intense feeling and interest.
The harvest seemed to him to be ripe, ready and waiting, and the pity of it was, that at the best the reapers could but be few. On the 18th of June Mr. Parker sailed for Hono- lulu, waited until December for a vessel bound home, and reached the East in safety. Could it be easily possible for
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Pioneer Days of Oregon History
Christians in New York and elsewhere to doubt that he had explored a field that was rich in promise and certain to bear abundant fruit? We can imagine that after that long absence he went among the churches and enthused them with the story of his rich experience. He had instituted Sabbath service at Vancouver for the first time, that was ever after kept up ; he had secured such hospitality there as delighted all who heard of it; that he himself could never forget. He had found an ideal race of Nature's children, really noble ; kindly with all their savagery ; who only needed heaven's grace to be the equals of any human race. Every- where in the upper country they waited for the coming of teachers to pledge their lives to the service of God. That was, indeed, an ideal phase of mission work !
Mr. Parker also carried back with him a vivid apprecia- tion of the value of the region east of the Cascades of the Columbia. He saw it in the bonny month of May, when hills and valleys were green with grasses and gay with flow- ers ; when Nature was at her rarest, wore her smiles and had on her gala robes; he saw rich promise, that has well matured, when that Inland Empire in our day has done so much to show that it can become the granary of the world.
Dr. Whitman, having left Mr. Parker to pursue the work of location alone, returned to the frontier in the autumn of 1835, taking with him two lads from the Flat- heads and Nez Percés who were at Green River. The dif- ference in character between Mr. Parker and Dr. Whitman was radical, and it was claimed that this was why they sep- arated. But Whitman returned to work for reinforcements and went speedily about it, using the Indian lads to adver-
375
The Presbyterian Mission
tise his cause; taking them to the Mission Board, urging that as they had learned that more helpers were needed he had returned to procure them. During that winter he mar- ried Miss Narcissa Prentiss, of Prattsburg, N. Y. In the spring he enlisted Rev. and Mrs. H. H. Spaulding, just married, who were on the way to the Osage mission, but yielded to his persuasion. At the mission they were joined by W. H. Gray, of Utica, N. Y., mechanic, en- gaged as secular agent; the two Indian lads returned with them.
Joining a company of traders, they made their way to Green River, where they were entertained by a wild array of painted warriors on horseback, who went through a dramatic performance in their honor, that made the ladies shudder with fear, though they knew it was but a make-believe of war. That was the first time in the world's history that cul- tured white women were seen upon the plains, and caused much interest in the minds of all, especially with Indians who had never seen a white woman. Mrs. Spaulding had suffered from illness, but the little rest at Green River, with mountain air to assist, gave her strength. McLeod and Tom McKay, of the Hudson's Bay Company, were at Green River and accompanied them to the Columbia. At Fort Hall, Whitman's wagon was reduced to a cart; at Fort Boisé the horses were so worn that the cart was left behind. Some of their cattle were also too weak to go any further. On the 1st of September they arrived at Walla Walla, were received with all kindness, fed on the game of the country, green corn, potatoes and melons. They went on to Van- couver to advise with McLoughlin ; the presence of white women was a wonder to the natives, who wondered most that
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Pioneer Days of Oregon History
these white men did all the work and treated their wives with extraordinary consideration-did not make them pack goods around the portages.
Describing the view from the summit of the Blue Moun- tains, where they break down on the north in grassy hills for thousands of feet toward the Columbia, Mr. Gray says in his history: "As the party began to descend from the western slope of the Blue Mountains, the view was surpass- ingly grand. Before us lay the great valley of the Colum- bia; on the west, in full view, Mount Hood rose amid the lofty ranges of the Cascades, ninety miles away; to the north of Mount Hood stood Mount Adams ; still to the north was Rainier ; while with the assistance of Mckay we could trace the course of the Columbia and determine the location of Walla Walla. It was late in the evening as we reached camp on the Umatilla, being delayed by the cattle, their feet having become worn and tender in passing over sharp rocks, there being but little sign of a trail where we passed over the Blue Mountains in 1836."
A kindly greeting awaited these wayfarers when they reached Fort Walla Walla. Pambrun was in charge, and of all the chiefs of the Hudson's Bay Co., he was one of the kindest. A Catholic himself, the only one of all the fur traders, too, who had taken pains to teach the na- tive the great truths of the Christian religion, he received these missionaries of a different faith with all sympathy and kindness, and remained their friend and supporter for the few remaining years of his life; he died at Walla Walla not long after. Mrs. Spaulding wrote to her friends that he received her in his arms when she rode up, as if he had been her own father. They were entertained with the best the
377
The Presbyterian Mission
country could furnish and Pambrun accompanied them to Vancouver.
Bancroft's History, when describing the arrival at Van- couver, says: "On the forenoon of the 12th of November, 1836, to the music of the Canadian boat songs as the bat- teau rounded the point where stood the fort, the passengers saw two ships lying there gayly dressed with flags while the company's colors waved from the fort. At the landing waited two magnificent-looking men-John McLoughlin and James Douglas, who greeted the missionaries and es- corted the ladies with stately courtesy within the walls of the fort. There they were again made welcome, and assigned to convenient quarters, according to rank. Here they met Jason Lee and Herbert Beaver and his wife. They had been preceded on the journey by gentlemen belonging to the fort, so McLoughlin knew they were coming and could plan this pleasant surprise; but the ladies had no idea that the ships were dressed in their honor, and wondered what gala occasion they had happened on to produce such charming effect."
They met here Jason Lee and Mr. Beaver, chaplain newly come, and learned from Dr. McLoughlin the details of Mr. Parker's journeyings and his wishes. To carry out his promise to the Nez Percés, Flatheads, Cayuses, and Indians at Spokane and Colville would require still more assistance, so it was decided that Mr. Gray should return in the spring to secure the needed force. Leaving their wives at Van- couver with the ever hospitable fur traders, they returned to Walla Walla to commence the mission building at Waiilatpu, twenty miles above the fort, on the Walla Walla River. Securing help from Indians and a few men from the
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Pioneer Days of Oregon History
fort, the first house was soon erected. This was for the Cayuse people, while another building was put up an hun- dred and twenty miles to the east, in the little valley of Lapwai, about twelve miles from the present site of Lewis- ton, where the Clearwater joins Snake River in the Nez Percé country. Late in December the Whitmans were domiciled at Waiilatpu and the Spauldings at home among the Nez Perces.
The next spring W. H. Gray went East, escorted by the fur traders to the Flathead country, receiving there much attention and accepting volunteers of that nation who of- fered to accompany him to the frontier. Their journey was successful and peaceful until they were attacked by a war party of Sioux, who murdered all the escort and only spared Mr. Gray by the intercession of a French trader who was among them. He then managed to reach the frontier by aid of friendly Indians. Among the Flathead escort was a young chief known as "The Hat," who was much thought of by his people; whose life was valuable, as he was very intelligent and had received some education at the Red River settlement.
Gray's labors secured for the Oregon cause Rev. Elkinah Walker and Cushing Eells, with their wives, who established a mission on the Chimakane, near Colville. Cornelius Rod- gers was a fine young man who became a teacher at Lapwai and Waiilatpu; Asa B. Smith was sent to Kamiah, sixty miles east of Lapwai, up the Clearwater. It was rather a strange commentary on the ardor with which the Flatheads sought for teachers, sending several delegations to St. Louis to solicit for them, that they so resented the death of their young chief, and the five young men who were murdered
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by the Sioux, that no Protestant mission was ever established among them. So Gray, who was to have settled there, had no location, and after a few years left his connection with the mission to follow secular pursuits. Smith, who located at Kamiah, among the upper Nez Percés, who were near to as well as nearly related to the Flatheads, left that station in 1841 because that people assumed the same hostile atti- tude against the missions that the Flatheads did, so no good could be accomplished among them. The unfortunate in- cident of the murder by the Sioux of the friendly escort who undertook to guard and guide Gray to the settlements, was a cause of much trouble, and may have had bearing on the ultimate failure of all the mission work. It is not easy to say how they made Gray or the mission accountable for the act of savages, but it was consistent with their super- stition that they had no faith in people whose God-of whom they talked often and for whom they promised so much- could not protect them from harm. Certain it was that for all the many years that Whitman labored and Spaulding struggled, the unhappy fate of that accomplished young chief and his companions was often quoted against them.
While east on this mission Mr. Gray met, one evening in February, 1838, Mary Augusta Dix, and they became so mutually impressed that he was accepted as her husband the same evening; they were married within the week. Gray was a fine-looking young man, and when we knew Mrs. Gray, here in Oregon, a dozen years later, she was a hand- some and dignified lady of fine proportions as well as pos- sessed of more than average force of character. One week after they first met the missionary journey commenced and the reinforcement was on the way to Oregon.
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Probably, never in the history of missions had a race seemed more appreciative of religious truth and anxious to receive light than were those Indians of the Upper Co- lumbia. To send men of literary attainment to preach re- finement to savages was merely waste of effort. Had Mc- Loughlin established these missions on the same rules and with the same force that was maintained by the Hudson's Bay Company, with the same knowledge of Indian charac- ter and of human nature, no doubt the Indians could have been in a measure Christianized, and an era of evolution have commenced that would gradually have raised the Indian to an enlightened condition, but no ordinary treatment could have effected such reform. Managed as they were, without power to impress the savage mind, they became objects of cupidity and contempt, and were subject to the super- stitious fears that were so powerful in Indian character.
The Presbyterian missions really made progress and be- came large establishments, conducted solely for the good of the natives. But the American Board demanded that they should be self-supporting. At Lapwai there was a house with many rooms, requiring eleven fireplaces; an Indian reception-room; room for spinning and weaving; a schoolroom and accommodations for a large family-all under one roof. Besides was the church, saw mill, grist mill, all necessary shops and storehouses-in fact, a large establishment, the farm and its buildings added to the whole. On this farm were grown supplies for the family and some surplus products to send to other missions, for use of natives and occasional travellers; but not with a demand to afford means to run the mission. Spaulding and his assistants really had made wonderful progress ; visi-
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tors noticed, too, that many of the Nez Percés had small farms that greatly helped their living, but as a class they were averse to labor and looked on farm work as degrading.
At Waiilatpu there was an adobe house 18x60 feet, with a large half story above, with dining-room, sitting-room, schoolroom, kitchen and other bedrooms. The mansion stood near, 30x40 feet, with upper story ; and near by was the blacksmith shop; the grist mill being not far away by the river and mill pond. There was an irrigating ditch, a meadow toward the west, apple trees near the house, and a small flower garden. In 1841 Commander Wilkes found there a good-sized herd of cattle, with sheep and swine; a great air of comfort and prosperity was present. The saw mill was near a timbered region, twenty miles above. The Cayuses had less thrift than the Nez Percés, but even there the Indians at that time had many small patches in cultivation that produced well, as the soil was found to be far more prolific than was at first supposed. The Cayuses were too proud to work, but had no objection to the mission farm producing for their use; but there were some exceptions.
The Spokane mission, at Chimakane, did not show the same improvement. The natives there were much the same, hardly so intractible as the Cayuses, but were "given to lying" with the worst of them. When the mission house burned, in the winter of 1839-40, they behaved well, assist- ing to rebuild and refraining from thieving. The Hudson's Bay Company people came from Fort Colville, camped in the snow and soon rebuilt the house, though much had been destroyed. The climate there was too frosty to grow crops to advantage, so farming was neglected and supplies came 1
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from Lapwai to some extent. Chief Lawyer, at Lapwai, and Chief Garry, at Spokane, were each somewhat educated, Garry at Red River, and their influence was favorable to the missions. It was not reasonable to believe that with all these advantages the Indians would not appreciate that they were benefited, and that the missionaries were devoting their lives to the hope of doing good and making the natives better and happier. There were exceptions, for occasionally one rose above the common herd and seemed to appreciate both the value of gospel truth and the self-devotion that strove to enlighten their minds and benefit their lives and surroundings ; but these were few and the influence not permanent.
CHAPTER XXXVIII
CATHOLIC MISSIONS IN OREGON
POSSIBLY, the most successful missions to the region west of the Rockies, on the Northwest of the Pacific, were those established by the Society of Jesus, of the Roman Catholic Church. Their methods of life were not commonplace. The celibacy and formalities, absence of business and sepa- ration from ordinary affairs of men the forms, ceremonies and spectacular features of worship, were calculated to impress the simple-minded natives and repress their sav- agery by appeal in the most effectual manner to the super- stition in their natures ; as in case of many countries where vice and ignorance claim the benefits of a church that is ready to receive them at the last gasp of evil lives.
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