Churches of the valley, or, An historical sketch of the old Presbyterian congregations of Cumberland and Franklin counties, in Pennsylvania, Part 12

Author: Nevin, Alfred, 1816-1890
Publication date: 1852
Publisher: Philadelphia, Pa. : J. M. Wilson
Number of Pages: 360


USA > Pennsylvania > Cumberland County > Churches of the valley, or, An historical sketch of the old Presbyterian congregations of Cumberland and Franklin counties, in Pennsylvania > Part 12
USA > Pennsylvania > Franklin County > Churches of the valley, or, An historical sketch of the old Presbyterian congregations of Cumberland and Franklin counties, in Pennsylvania > Part 12


Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).


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nious strains, sung her matin song, as if offering her tribute of praise to the Great Creator of the lovely scenes amidst which she lived. From some ancient walnut, the timid squirrel looked out from his nest, with curious eye, upon the assembly below, until, at length becoming accustomed to their presence, he skipped playfully among the branches, and gathered the ripened fruit to provide against the approaching winter.


We will now enter the old churchyard, and endea- vour to trace out the inscriptions on its ancient and moss-covered tombs. A feeling of awe pervades our mind as we wander over the resting-places of those who lived, many of them, almost a century ago. Here sleep many brave spirits who freely ventured their all to secure the precious freedom which we now enjoy. Here are they who settled among the hills and dales which surround us on every side, and the stroke of whose axe first broke the stillness of the forest, and who cleared the fruitful fields, now covered with the luxuriant harvest, which are in the pos- session of those who were then unborn. Here lies the beloved Pastor of the old congregation, and all around him repose the remains of the persons who listened for many long years to his eloquent teach- ings, and who, in time of danger, marched with him to share the perils of the protracted struggles which released our land from the tyranny of a foreign foe. Here rest the honoured remains of the ancestors of many of our community, who have long since ceased


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the struggle incident to human life. All around us lie the brave men of other nations who came to our land, and among the wilds of a savage and uninhabited region, built the House of God, and disseminated through our remote settlements, the hallowed princi- ples of the religion of Jesus Christ. The graves of many of these bear no inscriptions, by means of which the name and station of the occupant can be ascer- tained. Many of them are only marked by rude stones, or boards, which have almost crumbled into dust after the long lapse of years since they were erected.


As we enter the graveyard, from the gate, at the distance of a few feet from the fence, we meet the rest- ing-place of the first regular minister of the Rocky Spring Church. When the tomb was first built, it consisted of a brick wall, upon which a large flat slab of gray stone was placed. Through the effects of time, the walls have sunk, and the slab now lies upon the ground-we are sorry to say, broken into several pieces. These again, are broken into numerous smaller portions, and are so scattered about, that it is somewhat difficult to make out the inscription. In a short time more, these numerous fragments, bearing parts of the letters of the inscription, must necessarily become scattered and lost, and the visitor will vainly endeavour to read the remaining characters.


It shows little respect for the memory of the great and good man who lies beneath, for the children of his old congregation-the co-labourers in his efforts in


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disseminating the precious messages of the Book of Life-thus to permit his tomb to be destroyed, with- out making an effort to save it. The recollections of the past should induce them to protect it, and not permit even this last memento of departed worth to be broken into fragments, and cast uselessly away. After collecting the broken pieces, and placing them in their proper position, we were enabled to read the following inscription :


" In memory of the Rev. John Craighead, who de- parted this life the 20th day of April, A. D. 1799, aged 57 years. Ordained to preach the Gospel and installed pastor of the congregation of Rocky Spring, on the 13th of April, A. D. 1768. He was a faithful and zealous servant of Jesus Christ."


To the right of the grave, stands the stump of a large forest tree : and a beautiful cedar, the only one in the yard, grows near its foot. The space all around the tomb is beautifully covered with thyme, which somewhat relieves the barrenness of the spot. Near the tomb of the Minister are three graves, marked by stones of a very ancient appearance, one of which contains the following inscription :


"In memory of James Robertson, who departed this life August 13, 1793, aged 4 years and ten months."


Another stands by its side, and bears the inscrip- tion :


"In memory of Elizabeth, wife of Alexander Ro-


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bertson, who departed this life 8th April, 1780, aged 30 years."


Near by is a third stone, from which we copy the following words :


" In memory of William Robertson, who departed this life April, 1796, aged 44 years.


" In the same grave lieth their infant daughter Eli- zabeth."


These three stones are of gray slate, of a much harder quality than the ordinary slate, and which seems to be little influenced by the hand of time. They are all near the grave of the Pastor, a little to the east of his tomb, and partly under the shade of the cedar tree which stands near by. To the left, as we enter the gate, is an old stone, formed of slate, upon which we find the following words, cut in very old- fashioned letters :


" In memory of Mary Cummins, who departed this life Nov. 9th, 1790, aged 17 years."


By its side is another stone, of the same character, of which the following epitaph is a representation :


" In memory of John Boyd, who departed this life in the year 1770."


"In memory of Elizabeth, wife of Charles Cum- mins, who departed this life 9th Sept., 1802, aged 54 years."


These three last-mentioned graves stand side by side, and contain members of the same family.


Near the latter is another old stone, of the same kind, and upon which the following words appear :


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" In memory of Mary, wife of John Boyd, who died June 30th, 1778."


" In memory of Elizabeth Cummins, who died Decr. 30, 1792, aged 12 years."


To the right of these graves, and near the entrance to the yard, is the oldest tombstone in the burying- ground. It is roughly carved on a hard slate stone, similar to those already described, and which differs considerably from the slate found in the neighbour- hood. We are ignorant of the source from which it was derived. It has a venerable and antique ap- pearance, and in the form of the letters, and the mode of spelling, differs materially from the custom of later times. The stone is nearly round on the top, and contains a rim cut into it in a rough manner. Above the inscription appears a representation of an angel's face and wings. The stone is covered with moss, which sticks tenaciously to it, and renders its deciphering a task somewhat difficult. The following is a copy of the inscription :


" Here lys the body of John Burns, who departed this life December ye 23, 1760, aged ; 79 years."


The occupant of this tomb lived at a period before any settlement was made in this part of the State, and when nearly all of Pennsylvania was a howling wil- derness. He was born in 1681-one year before William Penn came to America. His remains have lain here for nearly one hundred years. At the period of his death, he lived where Mr. Tobias Crider now resides. In the neighbourhood, near this grave, is


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another, marked by a couple of moss-covered lime- stones, bearing no letters, but covered with grass, and about which fragments of a fence yet remain. This is doubtless amongst the oldest graves in the burying- ground.


In the southwestern corner of the yard, is an old tomb, the walls of which are of rough, unhewn lime- stone, and which is covered by two marble slabs of large size. Beneath this tomb sleep an aged couple and several of their children. The venerable pair far transcended the usual limits of human life, and lived to an extreme old age. The wall is falling away on one side, and the rough stones, together with the old marble slabs, coloured almost black by age, give the tomb an ancient and interesting appearance. One slab of mottled marble gives us the following memorial of those who rest beneath it.


"In memory of James M'Calmont, who departed this life July the 2d, 1780, aged 96 years."


" Also, Jane, his wife, who departed this life, May the 4th, 1794, aged 100 years."


" Also of Charles, Elizabeth, and Isabella, their children."


The other stone is the memento of their son, James M'Calmont, of whom we shall speak somewhat at length.


"In memory of James M'Calmont, Esqr., who de- parted this life July the 19th, 1809, aged 72 years."


The occupant of this tomb lived near Strasburg, on the farm now occupied by Mr. John Dice. He was


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a Major in the Revolutionary War, and became dis- tinguished as a brave and accomplished soldier. When the British had possession of Philadelphia, Major M'Calmont commanded a company of Rangers, whose duty it was to intercept the supplies of provi- sions which the Tories might be disposed to send to the city. Upon one occasion, while on duty in New Jersey, opposite the city, he captured about a dozen Hessian soldiers. Having no convenient way of disposing of them, he marched them to Strasburg, near which he owned a large tract of land, and in- duced them to settle there, by presenting one with a few acres of land, another with a tannery, a third with a tavern stand, and providing for the residue in a manner suitable to their several capacities.


During the war, the inhabitants of the Cumberland Valley were much annoyed by the inroads of the Indians, who murdered the people, burned their houses and barns, destroyed their crops, and com- mitted the usual atrocities characteristic of savage warfare. The inhabitants were obliged to work in their fields after night, for fear of being surprised and murdered by their subtle foes. The farmer would drop his corn, as he ran through the fields, and cover it with his foot, while he held his rifle in his hand, and feared to stoop, lest he might be at- tacked by the lurking Indian. In this manner a farmer would plant his field in a single night, as he did not pretend to raise more grain than was abso- lutely necessary for the subsistence of himself and


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his stock, and considered himself fortunate if he did even thus much. In the neighbourhood of Strasburg and Roxbury, the Indians were particularly trouble- some. We have been told by an old and highly respected citizen of this vicinity, that, on one occa- sion, the Indians captured a number of persons in the neighbourhood of, and not far from, Rocky Spring, and proceeded with their prisoners towards Bedford. About the same time another party burned the fort (which then stood near Bossart's Mill), after shooting the only man who happened to be in it at the time, and then followed in the same direction taken by the preceding gang. A company of the inhabitants of the neighbourhood, under the command of Captain Alexander Culbertson, went in pursuit of the Indians, and overtook them near Sideling Hill. A desperate fight ensued, in which the company of Capt. C. was defeated, and himself killed. A number of the men were made prisoners, and carried off by the Indians. The stream known as Bloody Run, is said to have derived its name from this battle, which is repre- sented to have occurred in its vicinity. We wish it clearly understood, that we do not give this statement as historically correct ; but we think it is as plausible an explanation of the naming of Bloody Run, as any we have yet seen. A short time before the battle, a man, named McConnell, was ploughing near the Spring, and was surprised by a couple of Indians, who shot at, but fortunately missed him, and lodged a ball in the handle of his plough. He ran into a


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house near by, where the Indians did not follow him. His remains now repose in the churchyard at Rocky Spring. His brother, not yet arrived at manhood, was taken, but managed to make his escape at the slaughter at Bloody Run. There were a number of forts in the neighbourhood, to which the people fled upon the approach of the enemy. One stood at the mill on Mr. Bossart's farm, near the foot of the mountain; another (called Reed's Fort) on the farm now owned by William Etter, about one mile and a half from Rocky Spring; another at Strasburg; and a strong fortress stood on the hill, in the town of Shippensburg.


The above remarks may appear to be somewhat of a digression, but we deem them essential to a clear understanding of what follows, respecting the adven- tures of Major McCalmont. This gentleman was generally selected as the leader of the parties sent in pursuit of the savages, after the perpetration of their numerous hostile acts ; and, from his success in discovering their haunts, and inflicting summary ven- geance upon them for their atrocities, he became quite celebrated as an Indian-hunter ; and was con- sidered by the savages as a daring and formidable foe. As a bush-fighter he was quite equal to the most wily Indian. One day he met unexpectedly a tall, desperate-looking savage, while alone in the woods, near his residence at Strasburg. Both hap- pening to see each other simultaneously, took to trees, and each endeavoured to get a shot at his


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antagonist ; after evading each other for some time, the savage incautiously peeped from behind the tree, and instantly received a ball from the rifle of his dexterous enemy. Upon another occasion, while returning home from Chambersburg, he was pursued by a party of Indians, who were bent on securing the scalp of their old and hated enemy. After running for a considerable distance, he darted into a barn which stood near by, and escaped out of the other side, and secreted himself in a thicket, unob- served by his pursuers. The savages supposing he was yet in the barn, set it on fire, and stood around it, yelling in exultation at their supposed success in capturing their foe. When they discovered that they were baffled, they commenced the search after the Major, and soon found his trail, and again joined hotly in the pursuit. The Major was remarkable for his swiftness of foot, and succeeded in outrunning the Indians, who pursued him to the fort at Ship- pensburg. They often chased him to this fort, we are told; and, on several occasions, he selected men from the garrison, and, in turn, pursued the Indians, and avenged himself by returning with their scalps. During the war, he was working one day in the field with several other persons, at harvest-time. The guns of the party were in a distant part of the field. A gang of several prowling savages suddenly sprang from the thicket, and one, more bold than the rest, ran for the guns. McCalmont also started off on the same errand; and, although the Indian had the ad-


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vantage of the ground, reached the guns first, one of which he snatched from the stack, and with it shot the savage dead. The settlers coming up soon after the Major, the Indians retreated. He was considered by the Indians as quite as swift a runner as they, and fully equal to themselves in all the wiles and strategy of their peculiar warfare. In consequence of his extraordinary fleetness and agility, they be- stowed on him the appellation of "Supple McCal- mont." On the southwestern side of the town of Strasburg, there is a cave, called "McCalmont's Cave," in which he was accustomed to hide, when closely pursued by the Indians. It was in the midst of a thicket, and so covered by thick vines and bushes, that it afforded an admirable retreat in times of danger.


The Major was a tall, muscular man, of modest and unpretending manners. In private life, his quiet, diffident deportment gave no indication of the daunt- less spirit of the man, of which he presented so many evidences in his encounters with the Indians, as well as with the British army during his campaign under General Washington. After the conclusion of the war, he was appointed one of the Associate Judges of Franklin County, soon after its formation. He died at Strasburg in 1809.


Near the fence, in the western end of the yard, is a tomb, formed in the usual square, or rather oblong shape, with a brick wall and marble slab, which is nearly blackened by age and exposure. The wall is


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falling away, and the bricks are scattered about the tomb, which was formerly surrounded by a paling fence ; a few posts of which, with two or three decay- ing rails, yet remain. On the stone is the simple, modest inscription :


"Joseph Armstrong; born 1739, and died 29th Augt., 1811."


The tenant of this tomb lived on Mr. Wise's place, near the mountain. During the Revolution he was a major in the Pennsylvania militia.


In the eastern end of the enclosure, we find two graves, which strike the eye on account of their ancient appearance, which results rather from the gray colour of the stones, than any peculiarity in the wording or carving on them. The inscription on one of them reads thus :


"In memory of Mary Machen, who departed this life August 2d, 1803, aged 75 years."


Close beside this gravestone is the other, which we are told is


" In memory of Elizabeth, wife of John Machen, died 24th September, 1804, aged 54 years."


In the extreme southwestern corner of the burial- ground, beneath the poplar trees, are a number of pieces which form a very beautiful monument. They are scattered about in confusion over the ground ; and some of the handsome slabs were so covered with clay, that it was difficult to read the engraving which they contained. The sides of the tomb, and many of the columns were deeply sunk into the ground, in conse-


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quence of having lain there for so many years. There are more than a dozen of pieces, many of which are now partially injured by carelessness, and the confused manner in which they are strewn over the ground. Some pieces lean against the trees, and others are so much covered by grass as to be hidden from view. The side stones are handsomely made in the form of panel-work, and the columns are beautifully fluted. They are all of fine, white marble, which, however, is now blackened by exposure to the elements, for more than half a century. The whole monument was a beautiful structure, much handsomer we presume than any now there. We are told that these pieces were brought to the graveyard, from Philadelphia, more than fifty years ago; but owing to some cause, with which our informant is unacquainted, they were never erected into a tomb, but have remained as separate pieces ever since. After cleaning the letters of the topmost slab, we have copied the inscription and the verses accompanying it, without any alteration as re- gards arrangement and punctuation.


"Jane Cooper, was born, 1st of July, 1768, and (J. N.) died, on the 26th evening of June, 1796.


" JANE NICHOLSON's respected dust, now here, Once liv'd esteem'd, and shar'd health's warmest cheer Her life seem'd fix'd, as but with age to cease Till fated accident produced disease Young, wise and good ! she was her children's guide Bliss to her partner, joy to all alli'd.


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"From tender youth, sh' obey'd, with love and awe Reasons, religion, and her parents, law ; So grew, her dignifying strength of mind ; Tho' firm, yet soft, and happily refin'd No affectation, pride, or passion, stain'd Nor harbour'd ills her candid breast prophan'd.


"Her face expressive, spoke each thought sincere Truth and its friends, to her, were ever dear. Eager she priz'd each social, virtuous joy ; But prudent shunn'd the haunts, which peace destroy.


"For other's woes, her keenest sorrows flow'd Or for th'impious wandering from their God Is she perhaps, your guardian Angel, still ? O children ! live as would obey her will, So shall you join her on that happy shore Where death or grief, will visit you no more."


On one of the side pieces of the monument, which had sunk deeply into the earth, and which was re- moved with difficulty from its bed, we read as follows : " William Cooper Nicholson died on the 16th morn- ing of April, 1798 .- Before the end of his third year."


On the other side piece we find the following verses :


"Oh! when will spring visit the mould'ring urn And celestial dawn bless the night of the Grave ? Blest Angels rejoicing, will all hail the great Morn, When Saints bright descending, their bodies receive."


A few feet from the above, are three square tombs, with walls of hewn limestone, and slabs of white mar-


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ble, which are erected over the remains of the departed members of the Wilson family. Upon one are the names of John Wilson, Sr., who died in 1826-aged 76 years; and Sarah, consort of John Wilson, who died in July, 1848, at the advanced age of 96 years. The one next to this is dedicated to the memory of John Wilson, Jr., who died in 1818, aged 27 years. Upon the third is the name of Alexander Wilson, who died on the 24th September, 1828, aged 24 years ; it also contains the name of James Wilson, who died in July, 1847, aged 56 years. Upon these monuments are several verses of poetry, which we will not copy, on account of their length. To the right of these and somewhat nearer the lower fence, are two handsome marble monuments, erected over the remains of the McClellan family, from which we copy the names of those who sleep beneath them ; omitting also several verses, for the reason given above. Upon the first is the name of George McClellan, Esq., who departed this life July 15th, 1823, in the 62d year of his age. The next is dedicated to the memory of Lydia McClel- lan, who died in 1840, aged 68 years. In the rear of the McClellans are the graves of David McKinney, who died in 1835, aged 68 years ; and Eleanor McKin- ney, whose death occurred in 1825, in her 53d year. Near the spot where repose the ashes of the McKin- neys, are two plain marble stones, which are erected in commemoration of Grizida, consort of Robert McCon- nel, who died in 1832, in the 36th year of her age; and of Captain John McConnel, who died in August,


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1819, aged 73 years. At the distance of a few rods, towards the northern end of the yard, are a number of neat tombstones which mark the last resting-place of several members of the Davis family. Mr. Davis died in October, 1823, in his 62d year. Sarah, wife of William Davis, died in 1825, aged 64 years. Close by is the tomb of Col. Stephen Wilson, who died in 1823, aged 46 years. Near this point are three beau- tiful marble tombstones which indicate the place where repose the Grier family. The deceased are Thomas Grier, whose death occurred in 1818, in his 17th year ; Margaret Grier, who departed this life in 1822, in the 20th year of her age; and Michael Grier, who died in 1844, aged eleven years. Near by is the tomb of John Durborow, whose decease occurred in 1825, when he was sixteen years old. In the southern part of the yard, near the monuments of the Wilsons, is an old grave, covered over with thyme, and marked by a headstone of gray-coloured sandstone, upon which is carved, in very old-fashioned, rude charac- ters, the following inscription.


" Here lies the body of John Wade, who departed this life, January 17th, A. D. 1799, aged 80 years."


On the footstone, in the same style, is chiselled the following exhortation :


" Remember, man, as you pass by, as you are now so once was I; as I am now so must you be ; remember, man, that thou must die."


Close by the above is another stone, of the same kind, upon which we decipher the following words,


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with some difficulty, owing to the rough manner in which they are cut.


"Here lyes the body of McDonell McConnell who departed this life, July 29, 1776, 75 years."


The next grave is the resting-place of Rosannah McConnell. Upon the gray sandstone, at the head of her grave, we are told that


"Here lyes the body of Rosannah McConnell, wife of Robert McConnell, who departed this life-1770."


The stone is broken into two pieces, and part of the inscription remains below the ground, and cannot be read.


In the northwestern portion of the yard, are two white stones, which are placed at the graves of Mary Jane and Samuel, son and daughter of Charles and Elizabeth Culbertson, who died at early ages in the years 1815 and 1816.


Near the centre of the yard are two monuments, which we will next describe. The first is composed of a marble slab which rests upon a brick wall, part of which has sunk into the ground, and the whole of which appears to be in a decaying condition. On the slab we are informed that it was erected


"In memory of Hugh Beard, who departed this life, December 3d, 1771, aged 14 years ; also Sarah Beard who departed this life, March 16th, 1794, aged 20 years."


Adjoining this tomb stands one which was origi- nally much handsomer, but is now much impaired by time. The sides are formed of broad stones, of a yel-


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lowish colour, fastened at the angles by iron clasps, and supporting a slab, which is moved partly from its position, on which we find the following inscription :




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