USA > Pennsylvania > Perry County > History of Perry County, Pennsylvania, including descriptions of Indians and pioneer life from the time of earliest settlement, sketches of its noted men and women and many professional men > Part 3
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Holt's Gap. A small gap in the mountain at a point just west of Marys- ville, little more than a great depression.
Lamb's Gap. Crosses the mountain almost opposite what was known as Hartman's mill, in Rye Township, now Glenvale. On the Cumberland side it is the boundary line between Hampden and Silver Spring Townships. Elevation, 1,018 feet.
Miller's Gap. Crosses the mountain at a point a short distance south- west of Keystone, the road coming out at Wertzville, Cumberland County. Elevation, 1,080 feet.
Myer's Gap. Almost directly south of Grier's Point. Crossed by a poor road, little better than a trail.
Dean's Gap. The road from Perry County leading up to this gap, which lies almost two miles east of Sterrett's Gap, leaves a point known as "the narrows" and runs in a southeastern direction; another road from the same point runs towards Sterrett's Gap, in a southwestern direction. There is a considerable farm on the mountaintop at this gap, where Dr. Dean long resided, having a considerable medical practice in both Perry and Cumberland Counties. The road on the Cumberland side trended in the direction of Mechanicsburg.
Croghan's or Sterrett's Gap. Of all the gaps across the Kittatinny this one is the easiest for travel and the most noted historically. Through it leads the state highway from New Bloomfield to Carlisle. Across it ran the earliest Indian trail and in pioneer times the old Allegheny Path. Over it passed the great Indian chiefs, the early interpreters, the carly traders and the pioneers with their meagre belongings and their first do- mestic animals. Through its then precipitous passes came those first early missionaries of Scotch-Irish Calvinism carrying to these inland forests the message of the Man of Galilee, and across its picturesque ravines to- day roll hundreds of motor cars on pleasure and business bent. From a point of greater elevation several hundred feet west can be seen, looking northward, the historic and picturesque Sherman's Valley, nestling be- tween the mountains, one of the famous coves of Pennsylvania, and look- ing southward, the more extensive and productive Cumberland Valley in all its beauty. The elevation of Sterrett's Gap is 925 feet. As late as 1877, according to Beach Nichols' Atlas of Perry, Juniata, and Mifflin Counties, there was a post office located there known as Sterrett's Gap. At that time there was also a store and tavern there. Authorities give the name of the first tavern keeper as a man namel Buller. When the county was created, in 1820, Daniel Gallatin was the tavern keeper. After the middle of the last century there was a new hostelry built, where came the well-to-do from Carlisle, Baltimore and other places, on leisure bent. There came happy throngs, and there were scenes of gayety by day and sounds of revelry by night, but with the growing popularity of the great resorts and the easy methods of travel its fame as a resort passed and a struggling lone tavern remained. In fact, there was a road house there until very recent years, at times being a hostelry of good reputation and again being a rendezvous for those of questionable reputation, its clientele often changing with the change of proprietors. This gap was originally known as Croghan's Gap, by reason of George Croghan's residing near. Croghan was prominent in provincial affairs. An early order of survey was taken out for the lands at this point by John Armstrong, who sold it to Nathan Andrews. It was returned to the land office June 21, 1788, in the name of Ralph Sterrett, who with his brothers John and James Sterrett, warranted
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HISTORY OF PERRY COUNTY, PENNSYLVANIA
408 acres along the crest of the mountain, extending over three miles east from the gap. Accordingly it came to be known as Sterrett's Gap and so it remains, though the Sterretts are gone long since. Descendants of the Sterretts sold the lands to William Ramsey, of Carlisle. In a mortgage dated June 26, 1830, the Ramsey lands in Rye Township included "850 acres of land, two fulling mills, a woolen factory, three dwelling houses, a wagonmaker shop, stable, shed and part of tavern house and part of orchard at same place." (Part of the tavern and orchard were in Cum- berland County, the former being built upon the line.) By right of mort- gage James Buchanan, later President of the United States, became owner of a part of these lands in 1835 and was assessed with 250 acres and a fulling mill.
The mountain near the gap slopes so gradually that the approach from Shermansdale and Fishing Creek is very gentle, and abundant springs of water from high levels are available at the very top. There, upon a small plateau, met four early highways from divergent points, which made it an early centre of trade. And thus, at the dawn of the past century, we find an early trading post. There were stores for exchange and sale and shops for repairs, a tavern where man and beast were fed and cared for, and there dwelt an early physician, Dr. Kaechline, until after a severe and in- tensely cold midwinter night his frozen body was found near the foot of the eastern slope, while a riderless horse at the gap stables gave the alarm, too late. Additional facts may be found in the chapters devoted to Trails, Roads and Highways, and Carroll Township. Something of George Cro- ghan's life also appears in the early chapters of this book.
Crane's Gap. This gap crosses the mountain about three miles west of Sterrett's at an elevation of 1,300 feet. The road enters Cumberland County in North Middleton Township. At an early day it was but a foot- path, but in 1848 was made a public road, now long abandoned.
Sharon's Gap. A small gap about a mile west of Crane's gap, called after the original warrantee of the lands. There was once a road there, but it too has been long since abandoned.
Long's Gap. This gap is directly south from Falling Springs, where William Long, on February 3, 1794, warranted 400 acres of land. Its ele- vation is 1,390 feet. To the older generation it is known as the "Forty Shillings' Gap," tradition having it that a murder was once committed there for the purpose of robbery and that the culprit got but forty shil- lings. As our monetary system has had no shillings in circulation since our divorce from George III the murder was likely a provincial tragedy.
Waggoner's Gap. Crosses the mountain south of Oak Grove Furnace or Bridgeport. It is mentioned in early provincial annals. The road from New Germantown, via Landisburg, leads through this gap, and was known as the Baltimore Pike in the days when teaming to Baltimore with farm produce was an industry.
McClure's Gap. McClure's Gap crosses the mountain at Welsh Hill, southwest of Landisburg. There is really very little gap to the Perry County side from the hollow on the Cumberland side, formed by the folds in the mountain. It is crossed by a road built in 1821 to connect Landis- burg, then the temporary county seat, with Newville, Cumberland County. This gap is mentioned in provincial records as early as 1756. See chapter on "Trails and Highways."
Doubling Gap. Probably named by reason of the doubling of the moun- tain here. In a number of early publications, one as late as June II, 1829, however, it was called Dublin Gap, and the springs on the Cumberland side were advertised as "Dublin' Gap Springs" as late as 1800. It was first known as McFarlan's Gap, as James McFarlan had located about a
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LOCATION, PHYSICAL, FEATURES, GEOLOGY, ETC.
thousand acres just below the gap. Court records bear out the fact that it was once known as McFarlan's, as in April, 1891, a petition to the C'um- berland County court asked for the laying out of a road from Thomas Barnes' sulphur spring in the gap, formerly known as McFarlan's Gap, to Carlisle. Doubling Gap figures in traditions of the first settlers and was a commanding pass from the Shosshone Indians on the south, to the fierce Tuscaroras in the north, long before white settlers dared invade the sec- tion. During the Provincial-Indian wars, an Indian trail from the Sus- quehanna, starting at the mouth of the Juniata, followed an almost direct course westward across the county territory, through Doubling Gap, thence to the mouth of Brandy Run on the Conodoguinet. Facing Doubling Gap from Cumberland Valley, the eye meets Round Knob, 1,400 feet above tidewater. On top of it is Flat Rock, one of the most noted lookouts in the whole range of mountains. From its vantage point the whole Cum- berland Valley lies before you, the South Mountain far below and the tortuous Conodoguinet wending its way castward. During the period from 1820 to 1846 the hostelry known as the Doubling Gap Springs Hotel was in its heyday, and to it came men of note and prominence from far-off points. With the coming of the railroads and the growth of seaside re- sorts its fame gradually dwindled until it is little known.
TUSCARORA MOUNTAIN GAPS.
Unlike the Kittatinny Mountain, to the county's south, the Tus- carora Mountain, along the northern boundary, has few gaps, and only one of importance. The gaps are mentioned in the report of the survey of 1860, which was for the purpose of locating the line between Perry and Juniata Counties.
Waterford Gap. This is the largest gap crossing the Tuscarora Moun- tain and the one through which crossed that old-time trail, the Allegheny Path. Through it passed the red men on their incursions in and out of Perry County territory and the daring and intrepid fellows who followed them. Along this trail passed the trader, the early postrider, the circuit rider, the pioneer emigrant on his way to the valley of the Ohio, and through it to-day is a highway on which pass great touring cars of the modern world. In early annals it was known as Bigham's Gap, but is de- scribed here as Waterford Gap, as that is the official name placed upon it by the County Line Commission. It is also sometimes called the Water- ford Narrows. The residents of the east end of Horse Valley travel via this gap in order to trade at East Waterford, Juniata County, their nearest town. The public road traversing this gap extends from East Waterford through into Horse Valley and to New Germantown.
Bigham's Gap. See Waterford Gap, immediately preceding.
Bealetoren Narrows. Another gap or break in the Tuscarora Mountain is located southeast of Honey Grove, Juniata County, and is known as the Bealetown Narrows. These narrows permit easy access to and from the eastern portion of Liberty Valley, the road passing near the former site of the Mohler tannery, and thence eastward by Walsingham schoolhouse to Saville and Ickesburg.
Winns' Gap. Winns' Gap is located approximately two and one-half miles east of the Waterford Gap. This gap is only a slight depression in the mountain, and according to local gossip was frequently used by the in- habitants living in the east end of Horse Valley for travel into Tuscarora Valley in Juniata County. This end of Horse Valley is sometimes called Kansas Valley. Only a trail or path crosses this gap.
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HISTORY OF PERRY COUNTY, PENNSYLVANIA
VALLEYS.
The county of Perry, in itself a part of two of the most beatt- tiful valleys of Pennsylvania, the Susquehanna and Juniata, has within its borders a number of beautiful and picturesque valleys, many of them fertile and whose history dates back to almost the middle of the second century past, when the pioneers braved the untold dangers of the frontier to make their homes here. A brief description of each :
The Susquehanna Valley. The long, broad and fertile drainage area of the Susquehanna River, extending from within New York State, through Pennsylvania to Maryland, the greater part of Perry County being drained into the Susquehanna via Sherman's Creek, which empties into it at Dun- cannon, and various other streams. Duncannon is located at the most western point of the Susquehanna, the river making a sharp turn to the southeast at that point.
The Juniata Valley. The picturesque valley drained by the Juniata River, extending from the Allegheny Mountains to Duncannon, where the Juniata flows into the Susquehanna. Almost half of the county is drained by the Juniata.
Sherman's Valley. Sherman's Valley comprises the larger part of west- ern Perry County, being drained by Sherman's Creek. It extends from west of New Germantown to Duncannon. For several decades it was at the very frontier of civilization. Across it first moved traffic to the west of the Alleghenies, when roads were yet unknown.
Just how Sherman's Valley got its name will always remain a mystery. There is a tradition that a trader by that name was drowned while cross- ing Sherman's Creek, but nowhere is there record to substantiate it. How- ever, as early as 1750 both the creek and the valley are referred to by that name. The first person of that name to patent land was John Shearman, and the tract was the first one east of the Haas mill tract in what is now Penn Township. Here Andrew Berryhill took up 331 acres November 26, 1766, and it is named on the warrant as "Sherman's Valley." It was sold to Isaac Jones in 1773 and he transferred it to John Shearman, whose patent is dated November 24, 1781. While John Shearman, as stated, was the first person of that name to patent land, the valley had been named long before that and the first settler may have been only a squatter and not have patented land. In fact, when it is referred to as Sherman's or Shearman's Valley and creek as early as 1750 it was impossible to patent land, as the land office for these lands was not opened until February 3, 1755. Egle's "Notes and Queries," page 454, says it was so named for the original settler, but gives no evidence to substantiate the fact, yet the writer is inclined to give credence to that statement, as it looks plausible. Of actual substantiation, however, there is none. It is even likely that the original name was Sherman and that Shearman is a German corruption, as Shearman has the broad German sound.
Page 454, Egle's Notes and Queries, says: "In going over the files of the Carlisle Gasette from 1787 to 1817 we find the original spelling in all references and in official advertisements-so named for one of the early settlers, Jacob Shearman."
Horse Valley. Horse Valley lies between the Tuscarora and Conoco- cheague Mountains, in western Perry County, within the confines of To- boyne and Jackson Townships. It was so named because the farmers of Path Valley, Franklin County, of which it is an extension, used it as a
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LOCATION, PHYSICAL, FEATURES, GEOLOGY, ETC.
pasture for their horses, before it had been settled. It was once known as McSwine's Valley.
Little Illinois l'alley. This is a small valley located in Toboyne Town- ship. The eastern part is cultivated and the western part is wooded. On the north it is bounded by Rising Mountain and Buck Ridge, which is a continuation of this mountain. On the south is Amberson Ridge and Schultz Ridge, a continuation of Amberson Ridge. It is about seven miles long and a mile wide. Brown's Run drains it. The western end of this valley is locally known as Fowler Hollow.
Henry's Valley. Henry's Valley is located in Toboyne and Jackson Townships, between Bower's Mountain and the Kittatinny or Blue Moun tain. It is over ten miles long and merges into Sheaffer's Valley. It was named after John Henry, an early settler, who moved to Ohio. It is watered by Laurel Run.
Sheaffer's V'alley. Sheaffer's Valley is located in Madison and Tyrone Townships, between Bower's Mountain and the Kittatinny or Blue Moun- tain, and is in reality a continuation of Henry's Valley. It is about six miles long and is watered by Laurel Run, in this section sometimes called Patterson's Run. In earlier years there was a preaching appointment in this valley, and as so many families named Sheaffer resided in the valley the itinerant missionary, in announcing his services referred to it as Sheaf- fer's Valley, and the name stuck.
Kennedy's l'alley. Kennedy's Valley is located in Tyrone Township, in the cove formed by the folds of the Kittatinny or Blue Mountain, the broad part lying close to Landisburg. Called after the Kennedys, early settlers.
Green's Valley. Green's Valley is also located in Tyrone Township, in the small cove formed by a fold of the Blue Mountain.
Liberty Valley. Liberty Valley lies east of the watershed which runs from the Conococheague to the Tuscarora Mountain, and between these mountains in Madison Township.
Raccoon Valley. The valley lying between the Tuscarora Mountain and Raccoon Ridge in Tuscarora Township. Sometimes termed the Tuscarora Valley. It is watered by Raccoon Creek, eleven miles in length.
Tuscarora L'alley. See Raccoon Valley, immediately preceding.
Mahanoy Valley. The valley in Miller Township located between Mahanoy Ridge and Dick's Ilill.
Fishing Creck Valley. This valley comprises the most of Rye Town- ship and lies between the Blue Mountain and the Cove Mountain.
Buffalo Valley. The name given in early provincial papers to the terri- tory drained by Buffalo Creek, which, rises in Liberty Valley, Madison Township, and flows into the Juniata above Newport.
Pfouts Valley. The limestone valley which extends from the Juniata River to the Susquehanna River and lies between Willeat Ridge and Tur- key Hills, or the Juniata County line. One of the earliest points settled after the opening of the land office.
Buckwheat Valley. The valley located between Raccoon Ridge and Hominy Ridge, extending west from the Juniata as far as Eshcol.
Big Buffalo l'alley. The local name applied to the territory between Hominy Ridge and Middle Ridge.
Little Buffalo V'alley. Located between Middle Ridge and Buffalo Ridge, sometimes called Furnace Hills.
Pleasant Valley. A small valley lying south of Mannsville, its location `being between Furnace Hills and Limestone Ridge.
Perry Valley. Formerly known as Wildcat Valley. It is located in
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HISTORY OF PERRY COUNTY, PENNSYLVANIA
Greenwood and Liverpool Townships, between Wildcat Ridge and Buffalo Mountain.
Wildcat Valley. See Perry Valley, immediately preceding.
Hunter's Valley. Hunter's Valley is a cove formed by the Buffalo and Berry Mountain joining at the west, it lying between the two and wholly within Buffalo Township. Named after the many persons of that name who resided there, James Hunter being the original one. Isaiah Hunter. long afterwards an undertaker at Millerstown, was a grandson.
Buck's Valley. Early known as Brush Valley. It lies between Berry Mountain and Half Fall Mountain, in Buffalo Township, extending through Howe to Newport on the Juniata River. Its eastern end joins the Sus- quehanna River.
Brush Valley. See Buck's Valley, immediately preceding.
"Back Hollow." Located in Toboyne Township, and spoken of by Clay- pole, the geologist, as "the valley without a name."
Fishing Rod l'alley. According to an old map, located in Liverpool Township, south of the wooded ridge, separating it from Susquehanna Township, Juniata County.
The Cove. The Cove is a geological peculiarity. Professor Claypole says its physical features are entirely due to the presence and direction of the Pocono Sandstone Mountain, which crosses the Susquehanna River at Duncannon under the name of Peters,' or Fourth Mountain, runs to the southwest, then curves around, and, turning eastward at the horseshoe re- turns to the Susquehanna River, which it crosses above Marysville. The Cove is considered the western extremity of the southern angle of the great Pottsville coal basin. It is located in Penn Township.
Limestone Valley. Located between Limestone Ridge and Mahanoy Ridge, starting east of New Bloomfield and running west until it merges into Sherman's Valley near Green Park.
Sandy Hollow. Sandy Hollow is located in Carroll Township. It ex- tends from the township's western boundary in a northeasterly direction, for three miles. It is really a continuation of Sherman's Valley, as Sher- man's Creek, after running close to the base of Pisgah Mountain for sev- eral miles, turns sharply to the right, while the valley continues ahead.
FEATURES OF DISTINCTION.
The Perry County territory belongs to one of the more impor- tant drainage systems of the world. The Susquehanna River, north of the Maryland line, including its tributaries, the West Branch and the Juniata River, drains a territory comprising 21,006 square miles, according to a statement of the Forestry Department of the State of Pennsylvania. Of this immense territory the West Branch drains 6,820 square miles; the North Branch, 5.328; the Susquehanna, from Sunbury to its junction with the Juniata at Duncannon, 1,552; from Duncannon to the Maryland line, 3,895, and the Juniata, 3,4II.
As the Christmas season comes around with its pleasing men- ories and happy greetings, with its gay decorations and beautiful holly wreaths everywhere in evidence, being shipped from south- ern climes, few probably know that holly grows as far north and actually within the limits of Perry County; yet Prof. H. Justin Roddy, of the Millersville State Normal School, in his geological
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LOCATION, PHYSICAL, FEATURES, GEOLOGY, ETC.
investigations has found it growing in Greenwood township, near the old home of former superintendent of schools, the late Silas Wright.
On the old Wesley Soule farm in Centre Township, not far from New Bloomfield, there grows one of the most rare plants to be found in America, known as the "box huckleberry." A man named Michaux and his son from France, came to this country over a century ago to make botanical discoveries. They were ex- perts in their line and probably discovered and named more plants in America than any others. They described minutely varions plants that were later found to be extinct in the districts named and botanists then thought they had been mistaken. Among these plants was named the box huckleberry, which had been discovered in the mountains of Virginia, which form a part of the same sys- tem as do the Perry County mountains. None have been found there since, and their discovery was supposed to have been a mis- take or they had become extinct. About 1875 Spencer F. Baird, who later became president of the Smithsonian Institute at Wash- ington, D. C., while making investigations in Pennsylvania, dis- covered the same plant covering a considerable area (about eight acres) on the Soule farm.
While the species has been found extinct in Virginia, there is one other small plot of it in the state of Delaware, on the banks of the Indian River, near Millsboro. Prof. E. W. Claypole, the geologist, speaks thus of it: "It appears to be a lingering relic of the ancient flora of the county; maintaining itself on the sterile hillside of Chemung shale, but liable to be destroyed by cultiva- tion at any time. It is exceeding plentiful, forming a perfect mat over much of the ground, but its limits are sharply defined without apparent cause." This farm, as well as the Andrew Comp farm and others, was warranted by Robert McClay on March 22, 1793. its extent being 436 acres.
During 1920, another colony of this famous plant, said to be the oldest living thing on earth, was discovered within the borders of Perry County. It is located on the lands of John Doyle, in Watts Township, not far from the Juniata River, opposite Losh's Run Sta- tion, on the Pennsylvania Railroad. The discovery was made by Mr. H. A. Ward, of Harrisburg, Pennsylvania, under peculiar circum- stances. Near the colony there is a famous fossil rock, which has been visited by geologists of note from many states. Mr. Ward had accompanied a party of geologists there, they being under the leadership of Dr. Benjamin L. Miller, of Princeton University. Being more interested in plants than fossils, Mr. Miller strayed through the ravines of the Half Falls Hills, and in a short time discovered the mass of low shrubbery with bright, shining leaves, being uniformly about ten inches high. He recognized it as the
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HISTORY OF PERRY COUNTY, PENNSYLVANIA
rare box huckleberry (Gaylussacia brachycera), and upon sending specimens to such authorities as Dr. Edgar T. Wherry, of the U. S. Bureau of Chemistry : Dr. N. L. Britten, director-in-chief of the New York Botanical Gardens, and Dr. J. P. Bill, a Harvard instructor, found that he was correct, and that he had discovered that which botanists had been seeking for over fifty years. The main colony occupies the northern slope of a ridge for at least a mile, and covers about two hundred feet in width. It is located on the same chain of ridges of Chemung soil as is the colony at the old Soule property, the two being less than a dozen miles apart. Mr. Ward has since discovered three additional colonies close by. It does not grow from seed, but spreads from the roots, and does not cross streams.
Located in Spring Township are the Warm Springs, the tract of land on which they are located being warranted by Solomon Dentler on March 21, 1793. James Kennedy, who was the owner in1 1830, erected bath houses there. John Hipple, who had been sheriff of the county from 1826 to 1829, leased the property in 1830 from Kennedy for a ten-year period and erected a building 40x45 feet in size and other additional bath houses, and in 1831 opened the place as a regular health resort, entertaining those who during previous years had lodged in the surrounding farmhouses. In 1838 Peter Updegraffe, by marriage connected with the owner- ship, was in charge, employing his unoccupied time at farming and conducting a pottery which he had erected. On August 8. 1849, H. H. Etter purchased the property, and in 1850 again opened the house to the public. He built a seventy-five-foot extension to the hotel. The property passed to R. M. Henderson and John Hays. of Carlisle, who leased it to various parties until April 4, 1865. when it was destroyed by fire. Then, on April Ir. 1866, the Perry Warm Springs Hotel Company was incorporated by A. L. Spon- sler, Robert M. Henderson, John Greason, Jacob Rheem, John Hays, William T. Dewalt, and John D. Crea (probably Creigh). with a capital stock of $10,000. The resort was again opened, but never attained its former popularity, as the seashore and other resorts which were reached by railroads were then being developed. As late as 1877 lists of guests appeared in the county press. For many years it has not been open as a resort. The property later came into the possession of Abram Bower, and in 1919 it was pur- chased by H. B. Rhinesmith, of New Bloomfield, from the Bower estate.
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