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HAND BOOK OF
Newport.
5
GEN
ALLEN COUNTY PUBLIC LIBRARY
3 1833 01274 7256
GENEALOGY 974.5 D642h
DATE MICROFILMED
29 Sep 199
ITEM #
PROJECT and
G. S.
ROLL #
CALL #
XL18 7-102
ยท
43.50
2055474
..
Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2015
https://archive.org/details/handbookofnewpor00dixj_0
Mason dil
THE OLD STONE TOWER.
A
HAND-BOOK
OF
Newport, and Rhode Island.
BY THE AUTHOR OF
"PEN AND INK SKETCHES," "LIFE OF CHATTERTON," "PREACHERS AND POLITICIANS," "LIONS, LIVING AND DEAD," ETC., ETC.
NEWPORT, R. I. : C. E. HAMMETT, JR. 1852. Eld
US/CAN
974.57
ENTERED, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1852, by CHARLES E. HAMMETT, Jr., in the Clerk's office of the District Court of the United States for the District of Rhode Island.
MitC/8
DEDICATION.
Co John Duerton Choules, D. D., -
OF NEWPORT, RHODE ISLAND.
PLEASANT it must have been of old To roam where never mortal man set His foot upon the islands bold Save some red son of Narragansett.
Then. on the beach, from forest-shade, With springy step at dawn emerging, Stalked the young warrior-chief, arrayed In plaint and plume, with Island virgin.
Then, when the mid-day chase was o'er, The old men to their sons and daughters, Mingled with savage tales of yore, Their stories of revengeful slaughters.
No more the Indian tribes we see Like serpents gliding through the wild wood; They startle, but on mother's knee, And, but disturb the dreams of childhood !
How different now the scene ;- lo ! here Summer's migration-law obeyed is ; And unto Newport's sands repair The town-tired gentlemen and ladies. 1*
vi
DEDICATION.
I, mingling in the flying throng, Came gladly to a safe and true port,
(True from old times,) and tarried long In the sweet neighborhood of Newport.
Amid my rambles here, I found Out many a sweet and scarce espied nook ; And deemed a Journal of each round Might make a rather useful "Guide-Book ;" . So with my pencil and my pen I wandered oft o'er bay and dry land ;
Sketched, wrote, and sent the printer then This book of Newport and Rhode Island.
Kind friend ! as tribute to your worth, Be your name with my volume mated ; So, gratefully, as it goes forth, To you 'tis gladly dedicated.
J. R. D.
NEWPORT, R. I., 1852.
TO THE READER.
-
FOR this little book no other preface is needed than what may be termed an apology for publish- ing it.
The writer, glad to escape for a season from the Babel of a great city, chose Newport as a sometime residence. After being there a few days, he expe- rienced much difficulty in discovering the various objects of interest in the town and vicinity, in conse- quence of no available aid being at hand, in the useful shape of a Pocket Volume. With one of Murray's estimable "Hand Books" in his possession, he had easily threaded the labyrinths of London, and plunged into the purlieus, or strayed among the palaces of Paris; but here, no such companion was near to act at once as "guide, philosopher, and friend."
So, it occurred to him, after he had loitered long on these lovely shores, and visited every " Lion" of the town and its vicinity, that his written experiences thereof might be useful to the many who hither come in search either of health or of happiness. A want of such a GUIDE-BOOK, he has been informed, is felt, and he has thus attempted to supply the deside- ratum. He has not broached any antiquarian
viii
TO THE READER.
themes-hazarded any scientific opinions-nor has he attempted, indeed, to be profound on any topic. Like the African bee-bird, he has but shown the way to Nature's sweets, leaving to those who may peruse his pages, the pleasure and the privilege of enjoying them, as he has done.
CONTENTS.
PAGE
DEDICATORY STANZAS,
. 5
TO THE READER,
. 7
CHAPTER I.
Rhode Island-Visit of John Clark to Roger Williams- Purchase of Island-Original Charter-First Dwell- ing-house erected in Newport-Revolutionary Inci- dent-Newport made a City-Climate of the Island, 13
CHAPTER II.
Situation of Newport -The Streets - Newport during " The Season "-Fenimore Cooper's Sketch of New- port, . 18
CHAPTER III.
The Old Stone Tower-Its Situation, Appearance, and Condition - Controversies respecting it - Arnold's Will - Longfellow's "Skeleton in Armor"-Opin- ions of Rafn-Smith and Cooper-Lines on the Old Ruin, . 20
Y
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER IV.
PAGE
Coast Scenery-Peculiar formation of Rocks-Geological Speculations-Easton's Point-The Bluff-" Purga- tory "-Legends-The Devil and the Squaw-" The Lover's Leap, ?? . 38
CHAPTER V.
Robins-Ellison's Rock-Fish of New port and Narragan- sett Bay-Hints to Anglers-Turbot-The "Forty Steps " - Conrad's Cave - Summer and Winter Scenery-Sea Weed, . 51
CHAPTER VI.
Excursion to Coggeshall's Lodge-Beautiful Mansions- The Robin Orchard-Lovely Beach-The Ledge- The Gulley-Boat House-Hints to Epicures-Fort Adams, . 62
CHAPTER VII.
The Beaches-Easton's Beach-Bathing and Bathers- Amusing Scenes-Fashionable Aquatics-Sketches in the Crowd-Story of the " Sea Bird," 69
CHAPTER VIII.
Sachuest Beach - " Purgatory " - " Paradise " - The Hanging Rock-Dean Berkeley and the "Minute Philosophy "-Whitehall-Sketch of Newport by Berkeley-Almy's and Smith's Beaches, . 78
CHAPTER IX.
A Reminiscence of the Revolution-Overing House- Daring capture of General Prescott by Major-General Barton-Death of the Veteran-THE GLEN-The Tea House,
84
xi
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER X.
PAGE
Revolutionary Reminiscences-Curious Extracts found in an old Diary in Newport, . . 95
CHAPTER XI.
Churches of Newport-First Baptist-North Baptist- Jews' Synagogue-Trinity Church-Friends-New Friends-First Congregational-Moravian-Central Baptist - Roman Catholic - Zion-Unitarian-Free Will Baptist-Colored, .
. 101
CHAPTER XII.
Lily Pond - The Spouting Rock -Song of the Wild Flowers-A gem from Shelley, . 109
CHAPTER XIII.
Public Buildings and Institutions-The State House- Stuart's Picture-Town Hall-Redwood Library- Mechanics' Library Association-Masonic Hall- Free School-Newport Asylum, . 113
CHAPTER XIV.
Eminent Men, natives of, or connected with, Newport- Greene - Perry - Callender - Stiles - A. Brown- Hopkins-Rodman-Gammel -Dunn-Waterhouse -Lightfoot-Senter - Moffatt-Brett-G. Stuart- Malbone-Allston-Claggett-C. B. King-Wall- Stuart, &c. &c. . 125
CHAPTER XV.
Islands and Forts in Narragansett Bay-Islands : - Ca- nonicut - Prudence - Patience - Hope - Despair-
xii
CONTENTS.
PAGT.
Hog-Gould-Dyer's - Coaster's Harbor - Rose- Goat, and Dutch. Forts :- Adams-Greene-Wool- cott, and Louis, . 137
CHAPTER XVI.
Tammany Hill Observatory - Malbone House - Anec- dotes-Mr. Hall's Mansion-Cemeteries, . 142
CHAPTER XVII.
A ride to the Stone Bridge-Vaucluse-Pictures-Quaker's Hill-Battle there-The Bridge-Sharking, &c. 146
CHAPTER XVIII.
Useful Information for Visitors - Professional Lists -
Hotels-Banks-Stages, &c. . . . 152
CHAPTER XIX.
Miscellaneous Remarks-A Newport Relic-Mansions-
The Germania Society-Vale, .
. 162
NEWPORT AND ITS VICINITY.
-
CHAPTER I.
RHODE ISLAND-VISIT OF JOHN CLARK TO ROGER WIL- LIAMS-PURCHASE OF ISLAND-ORIGINAL CHARTER- FIRST DWELLING-HOUSE ERECTED IN NEWPORT-RE- VOLUTIONARY INCIDENT-NEWPORT MADE A CITY- CLIMATE OF THE ISLAND-FOGS.
BEFORE entering upon a particular description of the Town of Newport, it may be as well to give a brief account of the Island upon which it stands.
Rhode Island is situated in Narragansett Bay, a locality too well known to need any minute descrip- tion. It is the largest of a cluster of islands, is fifteen miles long, and about three and a half broad ; and it is divided into three portions-Portsmouth, embracing the northern, Newport the southern ex- tremity, and Middletown, occupying the space be- tween them.
In old times, only the savage roved among the plains or along the shores of the Island of Aquidneck, as it was formerly called. But what solitude is there
2
14
HAND-BOOK OF NEWPORT.
that is not discoverable by the sturdy Anglo-Saxon Race ? About two hundred and fourteen years ago, the venerable John Clark and a little band of perse- cuted brethren entered this then inhospitable and savage desert, rejoicing in it as an asylum of rest from the relentless hand of religious intolerance and persecution.
Unjust and arbitrary decisions of the General Court of Massachusetts had induced certain persons to depute Mr. Clark and others to select a spot where they might, unmolested, worship God according to the dictates of their own consciences. They travel- led through New Hampshire, and then went south- ward to Providence, where they were kindly received by Roger Williams, who had previously been banish- ed from the Colony of Massachusetts for his peculiar views of civil and religious polity.
Mr. Williams recommended Clark and his com- panions to the waters of Narragansett Bay, and ad- vised them to take up their abode on her shores. He also very kindly offered his services in procuring them a settlement; and through his influence with the two great Sachems of Narragansett, Canonicus and Myantonomo (whose confidence he enjoyed), a deed of Aquidneck and other Islands of the Bay was procured in the name of Mr. Coddington and friends in March, 163S.
Thus these venerable men commenced the settle- ment of Rhode Island.
The following is the original Charter of the Ameri-
15
HAND-BOOK OF NEWPORT.
can Isle of Rhodes :- " We whose names are under- written, do solemnly swear in the presence of the Great Jehovah, to incorporate ourselves into a body- politic ; and as he shall help us, will submit our persons, lives, and estates unto the Lord Jesus Christ, the King of kings and Lord of lords, and to all those most perfect laws of his, given us in His most Holy word of truth, to be guided and judged thereby."
The first settlement on the Island was commenced at its northern extremity, where a town was regular- ly laid out, called at first Pocasset ; subsequently Portsmouth. But so rapid was the increase of the Colony during the following summer, that it was deemed advisable for their mutual prosperity to commence a settlement on some other part of the Island.
Accordingly the next spring, Mr. Clark, with several others, removed to this part of the Island, and commenced a settlement, to which they gave the name of Newport. The Island itself, subsequently, by order of the General Court, was called the Isle of Rhodes, or Rhode Island, in memory of that cele- brated isle in the Mediterranean.
The first dwelling-house built in this town, was erected by Nicholas Easton-all prior dwellings were tents and wigwams. Both towns were united un- der the same simple patriarchal form of government, of which Mr. William Coddington was chosen Magis- trate or Judge.
16
HAND-BOOK OF NEWPORT.
The last of the original purchasers and proprietors of this Island was Henry Bull, Esq., who died in 1693, aged 84 years, who was afterwards Governor of the Colony.
In the Revolutionary struggle, Rhode Island took a prominent part. Indeed the first act of popular resistance in the great drama which separated the Colonies from Great Britain, and finally resulted in the American Independence, although claimed by, and awarded to others, was made at Newport in 1769, in the destruction of his Britannic Majesty's armed sloop Liberty. The Boston Tea affair did not take place until 1773.
In 1784 Newport was incorporated as a City, and on the first day of that year, the first choice of City officers was had. This form of government was, however, soon abandoned, and the old form of town government returned to in March 1787.
The climate of Rhode Island is most genial, espe- cially so in Newport and its neighborhood-remind- ing travellers of the soft atmosphere of the Isle of Wight. From this circumstance it has not unaptly been called the Eden of America. There is general- ly a difference of ten degrees between the tempera- ture in Boston and Albany, and in Rhode Island. The air of the Island is almost absolutely sea air; is moist ; often replenished with mists ; less cold than that of the neighboring continent in the winter, and less warm in summer. The temperature resembles in some degree that of England. Whatever is the
17
HAND-BOOK OF NEWPORT.
cause, it has long enjoyed this reputation, and accord- ingly has been, and is a place of great resort for both health and pleasure-seekers.
Among the peculiarities of Rhode Island are its visitations of fog. These, especially in April, are frequent. At such times the regular inhabitants are easily known from strangers by their absence of ex- tra clothing and mufflers. These fogs are white and dense; and occasionally last for many days together. They are very salubrious, and " Walking Stewart," the celebrated traveller, asserted that they were " brooms which kept the atmosphere clean." There cannot be a doubt that they purify it.
The Constitution of Rhode Island is founded on a Charter, granted by King Charles II. of England, in 1663, the frame of government not having been essentially altered by the revolution. In March, 1790, the United States Constitution was agreed to, and Rhode Island State came into the Confederacy.
For minute details on the foregoing subjects we refer the reader to the volumes of the Rhode Island Historical Society.
18
HAND-BOOK OF NEWPORT.
CHAPTER II.
SITUATION OF NEWPORT-THE STREETS-NEWPORT IN THE " SEASON "-FENIMORE COOPER ON NEWPORT.
IF the reader will glance at the map of North America, and to the particular portion of it where Narragansett Bay is situated, he will perceive in that beautiful anchorage ground a little archipelago. Of this cluster of Islands, that of Rhode, or as it was formerly called, Aquidneck, is the largest, it being about fifteen miles long, and, at its broadest portion, three miles and a half across.
At the southern end of Rhode Island, and upon the western shore, is situated the town of NEWPORT. It lies in latitude 41 degrees 29 minutes North, and in 71 degrees 17 minutes West longitude. Its posi- tion is most happy, for being built on a gentle slope, so that the houses and churches at the eastern side of the town are on much higher ground than those close to the main street, and by the wharves which form its western boundary, lying, as it were, in a recess of the land, it is protected to a great ex- tent from storm and wind, while Goat Island acts as a natural breakwater, which, in conjunction with the point of land on which Fort Adams is situated, effec-
19
HAND-BOOK OF NEWPORT.
tually shields the town from the fury of the ocean billows. Of the harbor itself, and of the various islands in the Bay of Narragansett, more particular information will be given in another part of this work. At present we will take a sort of birds-eye, or general view of the town, and in future pages en- ter into descriptive detail.
Running parallel with the row of wharves and in a line almost as straight as an arrow, is Thames street, or Main street as it formerly was and is some- times even now called, its northern extremity being near the cemetery, and its southern end a little way beyond Narragansett avenue. From this main artery of Newport, which is fully a mile in length, and of a convenient breadth, branch off at right angles with it about twenty-six streets, each of which runs into another long thoroughfare, Spring street, which is al- most as long, but by no means as regular in its direction as Thames. A third avenue, consisting of Bellevue, Touro and Kay streets, is connected with Spring street either by fresh streets, or the continua- tions of those between Spring and Main. Behind these are other and smaller streets and lanes, and still further to the eastward are open and breezy downs, and fields which are terminated by rocky cliff's against which the Atlantic Ocean either gently rolls, or, urged by the spirit of the storm, beats the bold, defiant coast with its thundering surge.
Northward of Long Wharf, and just beyond the cove, four streets-viz. Washington, Second
20
HIAND-BOOK OF NEWPORT.
Third and Fourth, running like Thames street, par- allel with the water's edge, are intersected at regular intervals by about ten others, so forming regular thoroughfares, which on the town map, strikingly contrast with the irregularity presented by many in the middle of the town. The widest street in it is Broad street, a fine thoroughfare, beautifully shaded with elms which, for once, does not exhibit some- thing exactly the opposite of its name. Continuous with this, is the West Road. Another road named Bath, runs from Touro street, and leads to Easton's Beach. During the last month a continuation of Touro street has been opened, forming a splendid avenue from the town to the Boat House, the distance to which from the Ocean House is nearly two miles. On this road are three beautiful mansions belonging to Mr. Ritchie, Mr. Parish, and Mrs. Cleaveland.
With few exceptions the houses are built of wood, and, many of these, of recent erection, are very ele- gant. In the old parts of the town, tottering fabrics, crumbling to decay and destitute of the adorn- ment of paint, are to be found-many of them stand- ing endwise upon the street, giving a straggling ap- pearance to their neighborhood. Since, however, the town of Newport has become a favorite resort for rank, fashion, and beauty, from all parts of the Union, it has wonderfully smartened up, and, season after sea- son, new and handsome edifices arise-fresh streets are planned, and various improvements are made. Still it retains much of its primitive simplicity of ap-
21
HAND-BOOK OF NEWPORT.
pearance, and there broods over it that spirit of tran- quillity which is so entirely characteristic of a New England town.
Viewed from some of the elevated spots in the neighborhood, or from the banks of the island of Con- anicut the town presents quite a picturesque, if not an imposing, aspect. Washed at its base by the ocean waves, beneath the blue skies of summer, its spires and towers rise purely white or stone-tinted, their gilt vanes flashing in the sun, and the green blinds of the windows suggesting the calmness and quiet within. Here and there verdant patches of foliage may be observed, dotting the scene with waving beauty. These green spots, however, are not nu- merous, for trees are comparatively scarce. But what Newport and its vicinity lack in sylvan beauty, is amply compensated by the stern majesty and the wild grandeur of its rocky coast-the beauty of its beaches ; and by the interest attaching to various other spots in whose histories blend the associations of olden times, with a dash of the mysterious and romantic !
In the business streets are many excellent and some really elegant stores. An air of prosperity seems to pervade the place generally-but in " the season " all is hurry and drive. Then in the shop windows are displayed the most attractive wares. Fashion rattles by in gorgeous equipages ; and from balcony and verandah beauty looks forth. The beaches are thronged with motley multitudes ; and 2*
22
HAND-BOOK OF NEWPORT.
splashing in the spray, in all varieties of bathing costume, are the seekers of pleasure and health. A few weeks rapidly pass away, and then the town re- turns to that quiet which from earliest times appears to have been its peculiar and distinguishing charac- teristic.
Fenimore Cooper in his admirable " Red Rover," says of Newport :-
" No one who is familiar with the bustle and activity of an American commercial town, would recognise, in the repose which now reigns in the ancient mart of Rhode Island, a place that, in its day, has been ranked among the most important ports along the whole line of our extended coast. It would seem at the first glance that nature has expressly fashioned the spot to anticipate the wants and to realize the wishes of the mariner. Enjoying the four great requisites of a safe and commodious haven, a placid basin, an outer harbor, and a convenient roadstead with a clear offing, Newport appeared to the eye of our Euro- pean ancestors designed to shelter fleets, and to nurse a race of hardy and expert seamen. Though the latter ex- pectation has not been entirely disappointed, how little has reality answered to expectation in respect of the former. A successful rival has arisen, even in the immediate vicinity of this seeming favorite of nature, to defeat all the calculations of mercantile sagacity and to add another to the thousand existing evidences that ' the wisdom of man is foolishness.'
" There are few towns of any magnitude within our broad territories in which so little change has been effected in half a century as in Newport. Until the vast resources of the interior were developed, the beautiful island whereon it stands was a chosen retreat for the affluent planters of the South from the heats and diseases of their burning climate. Here they resorted in crowds to inhale the in- vigorating breezes of the sea."
23
HAND-BOOK OF NEWPORT.
Did our limits permit, we might be tempted to quote still further from this favorite author, who, in the tale referred to, gives some graphic descriptions of the state of Newport society, as it existed in old times. We have now, however, to do rather with the present than with the past, reserving for sepa- rate portions of this little volume, references to the ancient landmarks. It may be as well, however, to say here that although the commercial popularity of the ancient port has declined-yet as late as 1769 Newport out-rivalled New York in foreign and do- mestic navigation.
D
24
HAND-BOOK OF NEWPORT.
CHAPTER III.
THE OLD STONE TOWER-ITS SITUATION, APPEARANCE, AND PRESENT CONDITION-CONTROVERSIES RESPECTING IT - ARNOLD'S WILL -THE SKELETON IN ARMOR- OPINIONS OF RAFN-SMITH AND COOPER - ORIGINAL LINES ON THE RUIN.
MINUTE classification is very proper, and indeed extremely necessary in all matters connected with scientific investigation. It is, however, by no means indispensable in a book such as this, which only pro- fesses to be a series of walks and talks. And per- haps the most natural division one could adopt, in local loiterings, would be to jot down, without refer- ence to strict order, particulars of, and speculations upon such matters and things as we may perchance meet with just when the impressions made by them are fresh and vivid. If, as Campbell tells us, " dis- tance lends enchantment to the view," it also too frequently robs it of its distinctness, and in the hazy remoteness of the object veils the sharp lines which give to it half its character.
The curiosities of a city or town are generally the first objects of attraction to visitors. It cannot, therefore, be wondered at, that the singular struc-
25
HAND-BOOK OF NEWPORT.
ture which we are about to describe, should be one of the earliest resorts of the stranger in Newport. It is one of the " Lions " of the place, and as such has always, within the memory of man, claimed con- sideration and baffled curiosity.
Not like some gray old cathedral, whose
" Towers are crumbling one by one ; Whose turrets to the dust have gone ;"-
Not like some abbey like that of Melrose or Tintern, where
" The moon-the regal moon intensely bright, Shines through the roseate window of the west ; Each shaft an artificial stalactite Of pendent stone ;"-
Nor, like some battered castle, in whose court- yards rank weeds grow unchecked; and in whose chapel lie recumbent statues of warriors and priests in " stonen state." Not at all resembling such remains, we say, are these fragments of an edi- fice whose former tenants, and uses, remain wrapt in mystery.
Before adverting to the various opinions which have been hazarded respecting this ruin, it will be necessary to give a brief description thereof, and of its situation.
The pedestrian who ascends the slight acclivity of Pelham street-a broad and handsome thoroughfare, which reaches from Thames to Touro streets-will, just before he gets to the latter, observe, on his left
26
HIAND-BOOK OF NEWPORT.
hand, an oblong field, surrounded by high wooden palings. About the centre of this grassy space stands a strange-looking building, which exhibits convincing proofs of great antiquity. At first, one is reminded, by the upper part of the building espe- cially, of the Round Towers of Ireland ; that idea, however, is soon dispelled on a closer examination of the lower portion, which has nothing in common with those also mysterious pieces of masonry.
On a near examination, this building is found to consist of a circular wall of great strength, built on arches, which spring from eight round and massive pillars. These latter bear evident indications of having once been covered with a thick coating of plaster, of which portions still remain. At a little distance these pillars appear to be composed only of flat irregularly-shaped stones, laid carefully one on another, but, on inspection, mortar, as hard as the stones themselves, is seen in the interstices. These pillars are without capitals, and are referable to no order of architecture; yet considerable skill is evi- denced in their formation. Above them the arches are well turned, though the materials are rude enough. Not a stone appears to have crumbled or decayed, and apparently the enormous weight rest- ing on them has never forced them a hair's-breadth from the situation in which they were first deposited. The stones in the tower portion are disposed simi- larly to those of the pillars, and all appear to be as uninjured by time or violence.
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