USA > Rhode Island > Newport County > Newport > A hand-book of Newport, and Rhode Island > Part 4
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At an angle of the road formed by Bellevue street and Narragansett avenue, stands the very lovely re- sidence of Albert Sumner, Esq., an Elizabethan building of considerable architectural merit. Leav- ing this behind us on our left, we proceed along the avenue until we reach Spring street, into which we turn. But we must not proceed without directing the attention to the mansions of R. B. Ives, and Charles Lyman, Esqrs., and that of the Hon. W. B. Lawrence, on Ochre Point.
A circular building ahead reminds us somewhat
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of a railway station, or of an engine-house, but as we draw nearer, the figure of a cow sharply defined against the clear blue sky, intimates that it is a barn. A few yards further on, and a substantial farm-house is on our right hand. Adjoining it is a large yard in which are some chubby-looking children, a flock of splendid turkeys, and a large poultry population. The land around is remarkably fine, and capitally farmed by Mr. Anthony.
We were much struck with the orchard-it was extensive, and contained many a picturesque apple tree-but many of them were now mere cumberers of the ground, and some, as cumberers should be, were in process of removal. They must have yield- ed their fruit before the Revolution, and who knows what scenes they witnessed ? Would that there were matter-of-fact, and not metaphorical tongues in some trees, that they might tell us stories of their slim youth, and of their green and golden prime !
Elsewhere, we have spoken of the robins, or red- throated thrushes. Should the eye of any lover of bird-music light on these pages, he will thank us for informing him that in this road-side orchard, these birds "most do congregate." It is their favorite re- hearsing place ; and here, at early morning, and in the quiet evening, amid the foliage dim, they fold their wings, and
" Sing of Summer in full-throated ease."
Pause, wanderer, on your walk, and listen to these
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cheerful choristers, so shall the natural melody de- light you, and you will go on your way rejoicing !
We have left many a fair dwelling behind, and now quitting the road we stand on the velvet sward. On our right hand stretch the quiet waters of Almy's Pond, and between us and it a flock of fine sheep are grazing. Away in the distance are breezy downs, and hoary bluffs, of hues, such as time and storm only could transfer to them. Here and there, dwellings which must command superb scenery are discernible. At a little distance and below, is one of the tiniest and most beautiful of beaches, over whose smooth yellow sands blue waves, in graceful curves, and fringed with white foam, roll with a grace- ful ease that tempts us to rush and meet them. Right under the road, which we have regained, is a rocky nook, from which spring up half a dozen wild fowl, who on noiseless wings dart seaward-and see ! on the intensely blue waters of the Atlantic, half a mile from land floats a large white bird, its fair form rising and falling with the undulations of the great deep, whose glassy surface reflects the ocean-loving creature, which like Wordsworth's swan-
" Floats double, bird and shadow ;"
Reminding us, too, of Mrs. Browning's (late Eliza- beth B. Barrett), SEA MEW-
" How joyously the young sea-mew Lay dreaming on the waters blue. Whereon our little bark had thrown A forward shade, the only one, (But shadows oft will men pursue,)
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Familiar with the waves and free As if their own white foam were he ; His heart upon the heart of ocean, Lay, learning all its mystic motion, And throbbing to the throbbing sea."
Who would think, while gazing upon such a placid spectacle-on such a
" Perfect form in perfect rest,"
on such a smiling sea-that storms could ever mar its repose ? Yet such often happen, for when mighty winds are " flying all abroad," there are few places more fearful than this. Alas ! these rocks and reefs have crashed in many a keel ; broken up many a stately ship; and the cry of many a drowning sailor has risen from among those cruel and treacherous capes : but we must pursue our journey.
Here we are near Coggeshall's Ledge, which forms the south-eastern extremity of the "Neck." This ledge is composed of large masses of Gneiss, which rising high above the sea, forms a break-water within which boats can safely land. Between the ledge and the island is a rocky indentation, known as the GULLY, into which on a gentle slope is a contri- vance for launching boats, and in the gully itself, when the tide flows, tautog or black-fish may be readily caught.
The visitor who may feel inclined to leave the shore and venture " outside," may here find able and experienced men and staunch boats. By the aid of these he may visit the extremity of the ledge, where he can enjoy capital sport.
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Near the gully is a house-a great place of resort in the season ; albeit, it exhibits not on its front or sides the adornments of architecture. This is the place to eat tautog in perfection. "First catch your fish," as Mrs. Glasse would say, (that is, depend on it-half the charm of a piscatorial dinner,) then go to the gully boat-house and have it broiled before your eyes and under your own keen inspection. When it is done, (and to be done well, it should be done quickly,) do not insult the remains of the juicy departed by sauces ; let salt and pepper, or, if you like it, a little lemon juice and cayenne be your only condiments ; then eat and rejoice, for verily you will be satisfied. Or, do you wish a chowder ? produce your spoils, and take a turn on the rocks whilst it is being cooked ; then absorb, not eat, the apician con- coction, and be thankful, for such fare the gods do not vouchsafe every day to us poor mortals !
From Coggeshall's ledge we can see, almost at all times, many large vessels-some Boston bound from the south, and others on their way thither. The ocean is almost always dotted with white sails, which agreeably enliven the scene. On the whole, this spot, as a point for sea-view and landscape, can scarcely be surpassed. Far away to the right may be seen the Connecticut shore, and, on the left, the prospect is bounded by a range of out-stretching rocks.
We must not quit the ledge without a mention of the worthy after whom it is named-Mr. John Cog-
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geshall. This gentleman died in 1647, at which pe- riod he was in high office. He lies on the Coggeshall burial-place, a little south of Newport. The follow- ing is the inscription on his tombstone :
" Here lyeth the Body of JOHN COGGESHALL, SEN., ESQ., who died the first President of the Colony, the 27th of Nov., 1647, aged about 56 years."
In our homeward walk, we observe the noble man- sion of W. S. Wetmore, Esq., which, though yet un- finished, gives ample promise of future splendor. It has risen, phoenix-like, from the ashes of a former dwelling, which, just as it was completed, was con- sumed by fire. We also notice the handsome and well-appointed residence of Mrs. Bruen, which is charmingly placed.
Fort Adams, with its long range of fortifications, lying on a spur of land, and occupying a most com- manding position, next attracted our notice. Above it, in the air, proudly floated the National flag, which looked like the guardian genius of the place. By and by we saw towering before us the superb Ital- ian-looking mansion of Edward King, Esq. Then we came abreast of the double-turreted Coddington mill-then the houses became less distant from one another ; then we passed the new Roman Catholic chapel, and, turning to the right, by the Congrega- tional church, in Pelham street, reached, in a minute or so, the spot from whence we started, having in our circuit experienced a perfect "round of enjoyment."
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CHAPTER VII.
THE BEACHES-EASTON'S BEACH-BATHING AND BATHERS -FASHIONABLE AQUATICS -- AMUSING SCENES-SKETCH- ES IN THE CROWD-STORY OF THE "SEA BIRD."
THE Beaches! There is something delightful in the very tone of the word! To people who, month after month, are pent in populous cities, there is a positive coolness in the sound of it. On bright, sum- mer days, when the stifling heat causes one to pant and perspire, how welcome the mere idea of a watering place, such as Newport ! How absolutely rejoicing the sensation when, standing on sand or shingle, we feel the salt-sea breeze fanning our brows!
In the vicinity of Newport are four beaches : two large ones-Easton's and Sachuest, and a small one, Smith's, lying to the east of the town ; and one, Al- my's, southward, near Coggeshall's Ledge. Of these, Easton's Beach is the most contiguous, being about half a mile from the principal hotels, and is the most available for bathing purposes. Sachuest is the largest and most picturesque ; the two others are re- garded rather as agreeable features in the scenery than as bathing places, or promenades. For pic-nics, Almy's, especially-they are all that can be wished.
4*
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In our notice of the various beaches, we will first take the one which lies nearest the town, and which is the most frequented of all.
To arrive at Easton's Beach we must take the Bath road, which leads directly to it. After we have placed about half a mile between ourselves and the town, we stand on the brow of a slope, from whence the whole extent of the sands is visible. Here, on our right, is Ocean Cottage, and beyond, stretches away a long line of bold cliffs, the prospect terminating at Ochre Point-Conrad's Cave being situated about half-way between us and it. On the South, the beach is bounded by the ocean, and, on the East and West, by rocky points. Northward is a beautiful back- ground, consisting of highly cultivated farms, and of picturesque country-seats, placed on the most charm- ing situations. Towards the sands, the land slopes gracefully, and the beautiful sheet of water, known as Easton's Pond, mirrors the landscape in its glassy depths. This pond, which is separated from the sea by a broad belt of sand, abounds in fish. In winter, it is a favorite resort for skaters-and in all seasons it is a distinguishing feature of the landscape.
Descending the road from the Ocean Cottage, we get to the shingles ; or, if preferable, a nearer cut to them may be made by scrambling down in front of the wall near the upper end of the long low beach, which, covered with pen-knife autographs of former visitors, forms a lounging and gossiping place. It is somewhat amusing, the efforts made by certain
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enthusiastic individuals to obtain a wooden immor- tality by inscribing their initials-in some instances their entire names-on this perishable tablet. Here and there are indications of sea-side flirtations in the shapes of engraved hearts, within whose deeply cut outlines are the initials of a loving pair. Very pos- sibly, in some cases, the passion was even more ephemeral than its record-but we must not senti- mentalize !
The beach is one of the finest in the world. Many have we visited, abroad and at home, but in our opi- nion this, whether as it regards beauty or utility, cannot be surpassed. The much-vaunted beaches on the coast of England are tame and insignificant in comparison. But, speaking of these, it may be mentioned that they possess one feature of attraction to which Easton's beach is a stranger. We allude to the pretty detached cottages, encircled by neat gardens, which skirt them, and by their near neigh- borhood to the sea, at once afford delightful accom- modation and impart a liveliness to the whole scene. Let any one glance at views of Weymouth, Brigh- ton or Torquay, and he will observe how vastly the picturesque cottages he sees delineated on the ocean's verge, add to the comfort and beauty of the beaches.
And now we tread on the hard, smooth sands of Easton's beach. The tide is flowing, and a brisk brecze sweeps from the sea. Far away is seen
" Some glittering ship that hath the plain Of ocean for her vast domain."
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And nearer, gay pleasure parties are cruising about the bay. But it is on the beach itself that the live- liest picture is presented-a feature, which, seen from a balloon, at a great height, might be taken for a view in the field of an animated Kaleidoscope.
The beach is crowded with bathers, in all stages of the dipping process. Some are just entering the tiny houses, and these have the distinctive recogniz- able traits of the human animal ; but watch them when they emerge, and wonder at the change. It is as though the bathing house was a chrysalis in which an amazing transformation had been effected, for the lady who entered it- a charming, lovable sort of creature-emerges from it a marine monster ! And there are whole shoals of such at this moment, splash- ing and paddling in the water with all their might, as unlike mermaids as possible, seeing that those traditionary ladies of the ocean are not in the habit of wearing any other covering than their skins, and are never to be seen without a comb in one hand, and a pocket mirror (where is their pocket ?) in the other.
Nothing can well be more amusing than the scene on Easton's Beach at bathing time. From nine until twelve o'clock, there is to be seen over the office of the bathing houses a white flag fluttering in the sun and the breeze. That bit of bunting is the signal that the three hours mentioned are those during which ladies and gentlemen may bathe in costume. At nine o'clock, then, the entertainments commence.
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Then, from every hotel, boarding house and private dwelling, may be seen issuing numberless groups of gentlemen and countless bevies of beauties. Every horse's head is turned in the direction of the beach. All along the Bath road is a rush of vehicles, laden with loveliness and fashion. Gaily sparkle the bright portions of the harness of each well-appointed team, and brilliant are the liveries of the "Jeames Yellow- plushes " who direct and control them. Cranch, cranch, cranch the wheels go over the gravel, and then noiselessly they glide along the smooth sand. Pedestrians, too, saunter gently along, and the beach of which we crewhile spoke is occupied by the most persevering of smokers, and the most indefatigable of whittlers and autograph cutters.
Here and there wander about comfortable-looking and well-to-do stout gentlemen, whose bathing as well as dancing days are over. Some are much like those specimens of the genus homo referred to by poor Theodore Hook, who are always to be found at fashionable watering places, hob-nobbing with every- body, and taking huge "sniffs of the briny." And there are, too, seated on camp-stools, in retired spots, fading old folks; and a quick eye soon discerns among them such a one wandering about as Dr. Holmes so felicitously hits off with that brilliant pen of his.
" They say that in his prime, Ere the pruning knife of Time Cut him down, Not a better could be found By the crier in his round Through the town.
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" But now he walks the streets, And he looks at all he meets Sad and wan, And he shakes his feeble head, That it seems as if he said, ' They are gone.'
*
" Now his nose is thin, And it rests upon his chin, Like a staff ; And a crook is in his back, And a melancholy crack In his laugh."
In short, on a fine bathing day, during the season, no more complete epitome of society could be found anywhere than on Easton's Beach.
But the grand scene in the extemporized comedy is that which is presented when all the ladies and gentlemen en costume are congregated, waist-deep in water, on the beach. And such costumes ! There is not an imaginable color under heaven which might not be seen bobbing up and down in the waves. All the fishes that ever glided through all the coral groves in the seas round Ceylon never looked brighter and gaudier than do these dashing, splashing bipeds. Such dresses-such patterns-such hats-such caps -and such an absence of starch and crinoline ! Most diverting are the amphibious coquetries of the ladies, and the marine politeness of the gentlemen ; and most ludicrous are the figures of the fair, as, anything but Venus-like, they rise from the sea, and seek the shelter of the bathing boxes, their wet garments around them
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HAND-BOOK OF NEWPORT.
"Clinging like cerements."
But they amply make up for their moist dishabille by their rosy, refreshed and beaming looks, when they once more come forth, like rosy Christians, from their sea-side toilets.
The beach is alive now with departing equipages ; and as the last bonnets are seen flying past Ocean Cottage, on their way back to Newport, the white flag is hauled down, and up goes a blood-red banner in its place. This is the signal that, abandoning costume, persons who prefer nude bathing may now take their recreation. This privilege lasts until three o'clock. In the evening, servants and others gene- rally enjoy a salt-water bath. Thus all have reason to bless the waves and breezes of Easton's Beach.
This beach is a mile, or perhaps a trifle more, in length. At its eastern end is a road which leads to Purgatory and the Second Beach. This is one of the most beautiful drives on the island, and is daily thronged by the seekers after health and happiness.
Connected with this beach a remarkable story is related which reads more like romance than reality- nevertheless it is strictly truc.
In the year 1750 some farmers and fishermen who inhabited a cluster of dwellings near the water, ob- served one fine morning a vessel in the offing. At first she did not attract any particular notice, such a sight being then, as now, not uncommon. It was perceived, however, after a little time, that she was approaching the shore-standing in-as it is termed,
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with all her sails set, and her colors flying. Such a spectacle was strange and startling enough ; and as she neared the shore it was of course expected that she would inevitably get among the breakers and be dashed to pieces. The beach was soon alive with people, who were attracted by the strange sight. Still nearer came the ship ! but on her decks not a soul was visible. Guided by some mysterious power she glided unharmed through the dangers seen and unseen-the crags above and the fearful ledges be- neath the wave-as silently as a phantom ship she approached the sands into which her sharp keel struck, and so gently that not the slightest injury was sustained.
Wondering at the strange occurrence, the people for some time remained gazing on the stranded ves- sel-presently they ventured on board, and then the only living thing they found was a dog, which was quietly sitting on the deck, and a cat in the cabin. Some coffee was boiling at the galley fire, and evi- dent preparations had been made for the breakfast of the crew-but not even the ghost of a mariner was there.
What rendered the matter all the more singular was the fact that there had been no storm off the coast, and that the vessel was in good sailing condi- tion. Many a conjecture was hazarded, but no cer- tain conclusions were arrived at. It was generally supposed, however, that finding themselves unex- pectedly near the breakers, through the carelessness
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of the helmsman, the crew abandoned the vessel in alarm (the long boat was missing,) and were after- wards lost, although their ship was almost miracu- lously saved.
The name of the ship was the "Sea Bird," and surely a bolder flight was never before except by a sea-bird made.
The vessel proved to be a brig belonging to New- port, which had been hourly expected from Hon- duras, she having been spoken about a day or two before, by a vessel that had arrived in port.
The brig was commanded by Captain John Hux- ham. No tidings were ever heard of him and his crew, and what became of them will probably ever remain a mystery. The vessel was afterwards got off, and sold to a merchant of Newport, who changed her name to the " Beach Bird," in which name she made many voyages.
Clams are found in plenty hereabouts, and the hunters of them may be frequently seen with their pronged instruments turning up the sea-weed. Various other fish also abound in the neighborhood of Easton's Beach.
A description of the other beaches and their pecu- liarities must form the subject of another chapter.
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HAND-BOOK OF NEWPORT.
CHAPTER VIII.
SACHUEST BEACH-PURGATORY-PARADISE-THE HANG- ING ROCK-DEAN BERKELEY AND THE " MINUTE PHIL- OSOPHY " - WHITEHALL - SKETCH OF NEWPORT BY BERKELEY-ALMY'S AND SMITH'S BEACHES.
LEAVING Easton's Beach, we cross the outlet of Easton's Pond by means of stepping-stones, and then making our way over a high tongue of land which terminates in Easton's Point, we see Sachuest Beach spread out before us.
It lies eastward of, and is much larger than the beach we have recently quitted. Besides its being more difficult of access, it is not so well suited for bathing as Easton's-but it is more picturesque, and there are associations connected with it which will perhaps render it a favorite resort for those who pre- fer solitary rambles to crowded haunts.
We have already described Purgatory, which is situated on the western margin of Sachuest Bay. We will therefore suppose ourselves on the edge of that chasm looking sea-ward.
From Purgatory to Paradise is a strange tran- sition ; but as we stand on the brink of the one, we here literally command a view of the other.
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Sweeping back from the bay, and at no very great distance from it, is a green territory, to which it is pleasant to turn the eye which has been fathoming the gloom of the rock-rifted chasm. And really, the "living green " is all the more delightful-and the " sweet fields " beyond all the more gratifying, be- cause of the sudden transition from darkness to light. Paradise is a long and beautiful grove of sycamore trees, that skirts the foot of a rocky hill -which hill is adorned with a variety of groves, formed by mulberry and other trees. There are verdurous slopes too, and mossy winding ways, which contrast strikingly with the rich vegetation.
From the hill's summit, there is a view almost as Paradisaical as that of the place itself; but the as- cent is somewhat tiresome-no one, however, regrets making it.
Paradise is a favorite pic-nic place, and to those who love retirement no spot could be better suited. But we must return to the bay.
One of the great features of Sachuest Bay is the Hanging Rock, an immense mass of stone that far overhangs its base. Doubtless the unceasing action of the sea has washed away part of the foundation of this enormous mass, which on scorching summer days affords literally to the weary " the shadow of a great rock." And a grateful shadow did it afford to one in old times, who made within its shade a study of the spot. And what a sanctum! That it
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was a place fitted for contemplation, the work which was chiefly written there sufficiently attests.
One hundred and twenty-four years ago, the wan- derer near the Hanging Rock, might have noted, sit- ting beneath the superincumbent mass, a man of grave yet pleasant aspect, reading or committing his thoughts to paper : this was the celebrated Dean Berkeley, who, it is said, here wrote the greater part of his " Minute Philosopher," a work, which it has been said, will stand an imperishable monument from age to age of the intelligence, refinement and piety of its author. Here would he repair from his dwelling in the immediate neighborhood, and amid nature's fairest scenery, lift his thoughts to Nature's God.
We will take a pilgrimage to his house, for it is one of the spots consecrated by genius. Not far have we to go-for it is near a small watercourse which runs toward this very beach. It is just three miles from the State House in Newport, a little to the northward of what is called the Green End Road.
Whitehall is the name of the house; it is not so imposing looking a place as its London namesake, where Charles I. was beheaded, and after which it was probably named : on the contrary, it is a plain unpretending building. But for all that, it is classic ; every portion of it is interesting, because the good Bishop's name is identified with it, and there he lived
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long and calmly. A slight notice of this good man cannot, we think, fail to be acceptable to our readers.
Dr. GEORGE BERKELEY was born at Kilkrin, in Ire- land, in 1684. He was educated at Trinity College, Dublin, where he distinguished himself by his liter- ary attainments. He became a fellow of Trinity College in 1707, and was created D. D. in 1717. By the recommendation of Swift, he accompanied, as chaplain and secretary, the celebrated Earl of Peterborough, who was appointed Ambassador to Sicily ; and afterwards, when disappointed in his ex- pectations of preferment, he spent four years on the Continent, as traveling tutor to the son of Dr. Ashe, Bishop of Clogher. Shortly after his return to Lon- don (in 1721), he was appointed chaplain to the Lord-Lieutenant of Ireland, the Duke of Grafton. By a legacy of Miss Vanhomrigh, the Vanessa of Swift, his fortune was considerably increased. In 1724, on being promoted to the deanery of Derry, he resigned his fellowship. He now published his proposals for the conversion of the American savages to Christianity, by the establishment of a college in the Bermuda Islands. The plan was very favorably received, and he obtained a charter for a college, in which he was named the first president. He re- ceived also from Sir Robert Walpole a promise of a grant of £20,000 to carry it into effect. Having re- signed his living, worth eleven hundred pounds per annum, and all his hopes of preferment, he set sail for the field of his distant labors, with his family and
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