USA > Texas > A new history of Texas; being a narration of the adventures of the author in Texas, and a description of the soil, climate, productions, minerals, tons [!], bays, harbours, rivers, institutions, and manners and customs of the inhabitants of that country; together with the principal incidents of fifteen years revolution in Mexico; and embracing a condensed statement of interesting events in Texas, from the first European settlement in 1692, down to the present time: and a history of the Mexican war > Part 10
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Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Part 5 | Part 6 | Part 7 | Part 8 | Part 9 | Part 10 | Part 11 | Part 12 | Part 13 | Part 14 | Part 15 | Part 16 | Part 17 | Part 18 | Part 19 | Part 20 | Part 21 | Part 22 | Part 23 | Part 24
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you, my reader, prove that you are unworthy the bless- ings you have inherited from your ancestors, many of whom were the victims of an improper organization of society across the water, and as such came to this hemis- phere to earn unfading laurels in the cabinet and the field. While then we enjoy the fruits of their labor and feel a glow of manly pride for our country, let us not for- get that there is no system of government that can at all times protect alike the rights of all its people, that there is no majestracy but may blush for the tyranny, ignorance or injustice of some of its members, that there is no coun- try but at particular times public opinion becomes the greatest tyrant of all, and that there is no community up- on earth, but does furnish men to become obnoxious to those in authority without a crime, without a fault. Do not then brand every man as an outlaw for misfortunes, or the faults of others; but rather throw the mantle of charity over even an erring brother and bid him God speed and better conduct in future.
Crimes will be committed, and laws we should have as far as possible to prevent them ; but I deny that ignomin- ious punishments are apt to produce reformation, I deny that God has delegated to a community of men the right to murder, much less to immure in dark and loathsome dungons for life, those who have forfeited their rights to citizenship. An individual in self defence may take the life of an enemy, a nation may destroy those who wan- tonly invade and make war upon unoffending inhabitants ; but surely a nation's strength is sufficent to remove beyond its limits those who are unworthy members of society, and in doing so, should first of all empty those schools of iniquity called Penitentiaries and place their inmates west of the Rocky Mountains where they cannot contaminate
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the young and inexperienced artisan of our cities, nor pre- vent those who manufacture most of our comforts, from getting bread.
It has with me been an object of deep solicitude that nothing in this work should be calculated to deceive ; and however much I may have been influenced by my own feelings, the country has, and will continue to be describ- ed with an impartial hand, from which in after years there will remain a source of delight flowing from a conviction that I have been an instrument of good. To be the cause of loss and serious disappointment to others would carry me sorrowing to the grave.
In pursuance then, of my original design, I will close this chapter with some further illustrations of the incon- veniences, as well as advantages, that emigrants must all, more less encounter, and as one fact is always worth a volume of theories, I will relate a singular adventure, such as could scarce have fallen to my lot in any other portion of North America; and will at once convey not an in- definate idea of the actual situation of affairs on the whole of the frontiers of the country. On a wet and rather cool afternoon, in company with no one but my faithful Mexican guide, (Pissarro San Plus) I was leisurely riding across one of those extensive prairies, when our eyes rested on a grove of timber, and near by the smoke of a cabin, the first that we had seen for two days. I had been thinking of the friends left behind me, and breath- ing an inaudable petition to my Creator that I might meet them in this world again. I had been gazing at the wild grandeur of the plains and bounding herds of animals until every thing had become stale and perplexing, and it now seemed as if this isolated cottage had been drop- ped from the clouds in mercy to a suffering stranger.
We may talk of our difficulties at home, we may loose
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sight of all surrounding comforts ; a holy one, among which is the friendly greetings of justly valued friends, and a daily intercourse with those who are "bone of our bone and flesh of our flesh," and never in this world will man learn to place a proper estimate upon ordinary com- forts until he cannot enjoy them ; nor to place a true value upon that which is in the reach of us all until we are without the pale of civilization and find ourselves beset with privations and anxiety in a lonely and distant land.
Yet under such circumstances, a merciful Creator has implanted in every virtuous bosom that patience under suffering and that untiring perseverance so much needed in all trying situations, that while we are denied the en- joyment of the heart's fondest wish, we are at the same time prepared to exert every energy of body and mind to surmount difficulties, and will boldly meet even death itself rather than fail in reaching the grand goal of all our aspirations. On this occasion no weary traveller in the most civilized country ever experienced so much pleasure when greeted with the sight of a stately mansion orna- mented with the sign of the inn. as I did when in view of a lonely cottage wearing any thing but a comfortable appearance, and planted as it was, in a region far remov- ed from every thing to which I have usually been accus- tomed, and almost every thing that under different cir- cunstances, would have been desirable.
When arrived, a gentle tap brought a creole looking woman to the door, when half way opening it and eyeing me from head to foot, while she cast a suspicious glance at the Mexican. she replied to my interrogatory about re- fres!iments, that-" we have none for ourselves." .
This was cold comfort, and such as I was in no Inmor to enjoy, and I therefore adopted a plan that gained us admission, where I enjoyed the warmth of a huge lor fire
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and a hearty meal of dryed Buffalo tongues, with a zest that any denizen accustomed to comfort might envy ; aided as it was by a comfortable smoke of my pipe-a present from a Cumanche Warrior.
Some time passed in silence, while our Mustangs* fed on the prairie, when a party composed of 8 men and 5 When entered. The men were clothed in Texan costume, and were armed as usual with the deadly rifle and savage bowie knife, and taken as a whole, were perhaps as for- bidding a set of people as even imagination could well picture. Here however, as well as elsewhere, there were vulnerable points in their character, and all controling circumstances compelled me to make a vigorous assault.
The leader of the band, as it afterwards appeared, was to be married that night to one of the ladies, a buxom willow of about 50 years, and proprietress of the cabin. (The reason she assigned for this fashionable step was her lon Liness in the prairie without any men folks.) She had been ont on . me errand connected with the marriage, and had with her lover conducted the rest to her domicil, where the ceremony was to be performed, and such cere- m nies afterwards as are usual in the congregation of Tesan hunters.
A glance convinced me that I was the ol served of all observers, and that my room would be very acceptable company ; but not knowing where or when we should find another cabin, I preferred remaining in this miserable shelter, and among this disagreable crowd, to camping out of t wet night ; and I was, therefore, taxing my wits to contrive to stay and make myself agreeable, when fortune put it in my power without further effort. The Esquire had not come to perform the uwrriage ceremony ; every mo ment he was expected. but he came not, and this disa-
*Horses.
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greeable suspence was continued until the patience of the impatient pair seemed entirely exhausted. We had been refused shelter for the night, and from the anxiety appa- rent, and the questions asked, I verily do believe that they feared I was the Sheriff or some such important person- age, in persuit of culprits, and only waiting for aid to ar- rest them. I however gave no explanation, and was not hasty in departing, when the old lady's patience passed all bounds, and in an under tone she conjectured that I might be a preacher, and if so, I would, she thought, an- swer the purpose of Esquire -; a conclusion she had arrived at from her desire to get married, and my appear- ance (being in rather a sorrowful mood) doubtless sug- gested the idea of a preacher.
I replied without denying or affirming, and remarked that some further delay might bring forth the Esquire, but if not I would perform the ceremony. This produced an immediate change in my favor. Where all had been cold and distant, I was at once regarded with marked atten- tion and respect; and the Mexican and even our Mus- tangs received a full share of the advantage, and were treated with such of the good things as suited their horse- ships' appetite.
My watch told of eleven at night, but no Esquire had entered his appearance, and it therefore became necessa- ry to prepare for the marriage. Let no one suppose that I officiated with feelings of levity or out of disregard for the proper observance of this holy rite; on the contrary, I would not for any consideration, under different circum- stances have performed the duty, for a duty I considered it in view of my own situation as well as that of a most faithful companion, who was quite unwell and in no con- dition to brave the peltings of the pitiless storm.
It was but little less than a duty to the parties. They
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had agreed to be husband and wife-had traveled more than 60 miles to obtain a regular license-they had sought the services of a magistrate, and had been disappointed. Under such circumstances connected with the fact that hundreds are living together for whom an express law of Congress recognizes their offspring as legitimate, upon conditions of future marriage, I, with a clear con- science, repeated the usual marriage ceremony, and make no doubt but the parties will live as hap- py, and prosper as fast, as if the knot had been tied by the most scrupulous divine, or the Esquire of the prairie.
Wishing, while performing a reluctant duty, to duly impress the minds of these semi-barbarians with their altered condition and increased responsibilities, after de- claring them man and wife, I addressed them substantial- ly as follows :
I will now proffer my friendly advice to you both, and conjure you that through the vicissitudes of life you do not forget your plighted vows, or do aught that will cause either of you to look back on the event of this evening with feelings of regret. Your relative duties are now materially altered, but they are of a kind that will prove delightful and easy when acting under the in- fluence of mutual attachment; and although I may never again see you on this side of the grave, yet I will not cease to feel some interest in the fortunes of those whom it has been my lot to unite ; and most sin- cerely do I besecch you that when the stranger who now stands before you has departed from your fire-side, that you will both bear in mind that the ways of the righte- ous are ways of pleasantness, and in all their paths is peace.
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This simple admonition, flowing, as it certainly dia, from my heart, melted these hardened creatures to tears, and more than one in the cottage gave vent to their feel- ings in the most audible sobs.
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CHAPTER X.
BAYS, HARBORS, ETC.
I now invite the attention of the reader to the bays and harbors of the country about which no pains or expense has been spared, while in pursuit of information, to the end that the advantages and disadvantages of each locali- ty might be fairly stated ; and if possible to guide emi- grants to a harbor of plenty and peace.
In a country that necessarily must, for a long time to come, remain essentially agricultural, the natural facilities for prosecuting a foreign commerce is, if possible, of more importance than the fertility of the soil ; for however pro- ductive that may be, its ponderous commodities must find a foreign market, and articles of necessity which the arts, ingenuity and capital of older communities can supply, must make up return cargoes.
· This subject might be enlarged on to a much greater extent than comports with the design of this work, and it only remains to be seen, whether the sea ports of Texas are such as can be successfully used in holding a regular intercourse with the great family of nations ; and if so, which particular point supplies the greatest facilities.
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Nuesses, is the most western of all the bays along the Gulf of Mexico, and this receives no considerable stream except Nuesses river, which is not of a character to afford inland commercial facilities, while the bay itself, and the general feautures of the country around, are uninviting ; so much 30, as to preclude the possibility of much commerce ever centering here.
Aransaso Bay, receives in addition to a river of the same name, one other brook, neither of which is of any . importance ; and the entrance from the Gulf is obstructed like that of Nuesses, the depth of water at high tide being on both bars about 7 feet. The town of Copano is locat- ed on the east bank of Aransaso Bay, and being conven- iently situated for the prosecution of a lucrative trade with the interior of Mexico, is rapidity increasing in population and wealth.
Matagorda Bay .- This receives the waters of the Col- orado, Navadad and La Bacca, and through Esperita Bay, the San Antonia rivers ; all streams of some magnitude, and each of these flow through a country inferior to none in Texas or perhaps elsewhere.
Vessels drawing 8 feet water can enter the Bay through pass Cavalo, and ride over a sheet of water of an average of 6 miles in breadth, and 75 miles from east to west, amply protected by the bold shores ; the whole forming a safe and commodious harbor for a fleet of a thousand sail.
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When it is considered that this is the natural outlet for the products of an immense fertile country ; a country too, in the main, more favorable to health than any portion of Texas of the same extent below the mountains, with all its valuable timber, coal, and perhaps other minerals, it
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would seem that Matagorda Bay must in time, become the centre of an immense trade, presenting but a single difficulty : there is but 8 feet water on the bar, and this at present prevents the entrance of vessels suitable for foreign commerce.
But is it not probable that the inventive genius of man, and the age of invention in which we live, may produce vessels of an improved construction, and such as can en- ter this bay from the remotest corner of the seas? Much more astonishing things are of frequent occurrence, and why not this ? Again a large extent of country contiguous to Matagorda, is favorable to the construction, at small expense, of Rail Roads, which when built, will draw to this central point, a large portion of the whole products of the country ; an advantage that never can be to the same extent possessed by any other place on the coast.
Three cities have been located here : Calhoun, situated on Matagorda Island, has strong claims upon the future business of the bay. The city of Matagorda is perched on a bold bluff, where the invigorating breezes from the deep, deep sea can always reach her, and Cox's point comes in for a share on the north west shore, where there are many beautiful sites for building. as well as plenty of wa- ter for the bay craft to swim under her cliffs, and in per- fect safety ride out a storm that is throwing up the moun- tain wave within 10 cables length from their moorings.
. Galveston Bay .- A discription of this Bay will complete a sufficiently detailed view of the coast of Texas. The most eastern point, Sabine lake, having been described in a previous chapter, and the mouth of the Brassos. as well as that of the Rio Grande, seems to have reversed some of nature's laws, which in almost every country in the world gives to rivers of magnitude a haven for the
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finny tribe, and a harbor, in which the tempest tost mari- ner may enjoy a respit. Neither of these do at the pre- sent day, and all speculation about their former channels and the points at which their waters were mingled with the gulf must be decided, by theories, which on the pre- sent occasion it is needless to discuss.
Galveston Bay can be entered by vessels drawing 123 feet water, and in this respect possesses one advantage over all other bays in the Republic. Those however who are acquainted with nautical affairs need not be reminded that with the present construction of ships the difference between the Sabine, Matagorda and Galveston Bays, is unimportant in any commercial point of view other than a coasting trade ; and this fact is conclusive, that the chief exports of Texas must for years to come, find markets in the United States, which will in turn supply such comino- dities as meet the daily increasing wants of emigrants to the country.
I am well aware that an English Bark heavily laden has discharged one cargo and took in another at the port of Galveston, but much as this arrival may increase the hopes of the citizens and enhance the value of property, at present it is not a triumph, even when connected with the entrance of part of the French Squadron under Admaral Baudin that can deepen the pass or of itself make Galveston Bay the harbor of vessels of more than 12} feet draught.
In this Bay I had the pleasure of seeing the Star Span- gled Banner of my country waving proudly in the breeze from the top mast of the United States Schooner Grampas (Captain Payne.) from a cruise in the Gulf. I do not know: what emotions a sight of this kind may be calculat- ed to create in the bosoms of others, but with me who had long been a wanderer in the wilderness, cut off from my
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country and those for whom I felt the most tender regard, for whom too by some fatality I had often been grievous- ly disappointed in failing to receive intelligence, it was im- portant and had much effect. My relatives, the tombs of my fathers, and others now no more-my country-her institutions, her victories and her gigantic resources passed rapidly in review, and all concentrated in this noble little traveler of the deep.
Yon Star Spangled banner, Long may it wave Over a people united, As well as the brave.
The Bay is a beautiful sheet of water of 30 miles in length, and an average breadth of 10 miles ; but there are many shallows, and only five feet water on Red Fish Bar, over which vessels destined for the San Jacinto and Trini- ty rivers must pass, both of which disembogue at no great distance. A canal of four miles in length is projected, which will pass through West Bay and unite with the Brassos, and thus concentrate, by water communication, the trade of an extensive country. The points of com- petition for the facilities afforded by this bay, is Point Bolavar and Galveston City. The first named has a handsomely laid out town on the main land, east of the bay, is well supplied with springs, and the largest vessels which can enter the Bay may ride safely at anchor while shelter- ed under this Point. Point Bolavar, then possesses all the advantages, and is exempt from many of the incon- veniences peculiar to Galveston city, althrough it is yet but little improved, while its Island rival as disclosed on the face of a map, presents 134 blocks, with spacious streets, running at right angles, and on the plain of the
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Island, several clusters of framed buildings, amounting to upwards of one hundred, large and small.
Among these are three large warehouses from whence goods at the present day are drawn for the supply of a ma- jority of the inhabitants of the country ; and the old Ohio River Steam Boat, Warsaw, graces the margin of the Island, being run ashore, and so serves for a public house, and is in fact amongst the very best Hotels in the whole country.
It is much to be feared that the fair famed Galveston city will always be unhealthy ; the water is very impure, the site of the city is not sufficiently high to admit of drains, and its only redeeming quality is a daily sea breeze that fans and refreshes the overheated inhabitants. In winter, the northern blasts, or as there called, the northers, bring the chilling atmosphere of the coldest climates, and these are doubly trying to any constitution, from the sud- den transition from an almost tropical climate, to extreme cold.
Sometimes these northers come with a vengeance ; on my first arrival at the place, I saw some half dozen wrecks lying high and dry, which had been driven ashore by a tremendous tornado, such as periodically sweep over the place ; and at such times the water is driven over at least three fourths of the plat of the city, to the great damage of property and alarm of the inhabitants, who (if I may indulge . a little pleasantry) I should call amphibeous.
The usual anchorage for vessels is distant from Point Bol- avar, and these cannot make a nearer approach to Galveston than 300 yards ; but it is contemplated to build a levee near the channel, and reclaim three tier of lots now covered with water. Whether this scheme is practicable, I pre- sume not to say.
Some such work is certainly much needed, but while it
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would afford material accommodations to most persons who reside at, or visit the city, it would, as most innova- tions do, destroy the business of at least one class of peo- ple who now charge a half a dollar ahead for conveying passengers ashore, and then ride part the distance in a small boat, and the remainder on board of the shoulders of the lusty ferryman; or as otherwise called a Gilly-Cas- flierch.
The exports from Galveston consist entirely in cotton, and for want of this, most vessels return in ballast. This article, however, will increase rapidly every year, as well, perhaps, as some others, for exportation ; while large quantities of American and foreign manufactured goods will be wanted for the Texan trade. Even now, from twelve to fifteen small sails are often seen in Galveston as well as Matagorda Bay, and from the former, there are four or five Steam Boats that ply regularly to Houston, generally with full freights, and great numbers of pas- sengers.
Emigrants can embark at any of the Atlantic cities ; and a voyage by sea will be near as speedy, and much cheaper than by way of the Mississippi. A passage to any of the Texan ports foom New Orleans or Mobile, will cost $35 ; a sum nearly or quite equal to two thirds of the current price from New York by sea. The Steam- ers, however, that ply from New Orleans, are noble ves- sels, and visit Matagorda. Velasco, and Galveston ; and a cabin passage from Pittsburgh, or any point above the falls of the Ohio, will range from 40 to $50 to New Orleans.
Galveston City, is located on Galveston Island in the Gulf of Mexico ; the Island being an average of four miles in breadth, and thirty long, presenting a most desolate appearance, with scarcely a shrub, and but three solitary
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View of Galreston City and Buy.
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trees to relieve the prospect. The soil is light and sandy, Dut produces melons, cucumbers, and sweet potatoes, in great quantities, and much of the grounds are now laid out in ten acre lots, expressly for gardening and supply- ing those who can afford it, with little manors whereon to rear the lofty mansion and surround their dwelling with such decorations as fancy and luxury may dictate.
The beach on the west is gradually winning from the waters leaving behind distinct traces of its progress and he who is fond of gazing on a waste of water may be gratified to his hearts content, and then enjoy the luxury of sea bathing, while surge after surge of the briny element is playing on the beach, and lifting him ashore, with other deposites, which add strength and size to the Island.
I love to tread the sandy shore, And hear the mighty ocean roar, When round by some tremendous storm, Its billows roll in the grandest form.
But never shall I forget the awful sublimity of the scene I witnessed when tossed on the mountain waves for fifteen days in the Gulf of Mexico, most of which time no observa- tion could be taken to ascertain our whereabouts ; and the vessel laboring so much that few if any on board ever dream- ed of treading the sandy shore again. We all however did; and now when I call to mind the tedious suspence and evid- ent distress that prevaded the minds of all on board, and connected with the thoughtless levity that was displayed when apparent danger was over. I am lost in wonder at the selfishness that seems alike to contemn reflection anticipa- tion. but which when danger is plainly seen. can so soon re- dice man to the most pusillanimeous of God's creatures.
A small fort garrisoned by less than 50 men occupies the extreme north east point of Galveston Island, and a
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