USA > Texas > A new history of Texas; being a narration of the adventures of the author in Texas, and a description of the soil, climate, productions, minerals, tons [!], bays, harbours, rivers, institutions, and manners and customs of the inhabitants of that country; together with the principal incidents of fifteen years revolution in Mexico; and embracing a condensed statement of interesting events in Texas, from the first European settlement in 1692, down to the present time: and a history of the Mexican war > Part 8
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Talk not of kings-he would scorn the poor comparison ; He is a Sage-and can command the elements ; At least men think he can-which is much the same thing All the world over.
General Lamar is the President at the time I write, but Samuel Houston will be the next.
Trinity River .- The general course of this stream is from North to South, having its source in the highlands contiguous to Red river, meanders about 300 miles, and empties into Galveston Bay. Small steam boats have as- cended to the three forks; being susceptible of improve- ment, boats drawing five feet water may hereafter navi- gate to that point with safety. There is, however, a bad par at the mouth preventing the entrance of any craft of greater draught. The old town of Anahuac is situated at this point ; a town of no importance at present, and only to be remembered on account of the first violence com- mitted on the Mexican garrisons in Texas; the curse of God seems stamped on the place.
Liberty is a town containing about 30 houses, on the east bank of the river, 31 miles above Anahuac. The country around Liberty is well cultivated and the inhabit-
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ants are generally an industrious and hospitable people. The locality, however, is not most inviting to emigrants, the lands being all occupied, and rating at comparative high prices.
About 200 miles above Liberty, four miles from the river is Fort Houston. This Fort is 150 by 80 feet, con- taining two rows of log houses, enclosed with pickets, and supplied with good spring water ; situated in a country handsomely variegated with prairie and timber lands, much of which is of good quality for cultivation, and not yet in the hands of settlers ; a large grant, however, made by a law of the legislature of Coahuila and Texas, embraces this section, and the sale being since declared void by Texan enactments, after many surveys, had changed hands, it will be necessary for emigrants to act cautiously when locating within this region, a part of which is at present the hunt- ing ground of Keiche and Caddo Indians.
The surrounding country of the Trinity can never be very rich or populous ; at any rate, not until other more favorable localities are fully occupied ; and in descending the river, the lands gradually wear more and more the appearance of sterility, much of it occasionally inundated, and good water is scarce. Indeed, most of the present inhabitants appear to feel but little desire to enrich them- selves, leading a hunting and pastoral life, content with a precarious supply of necessaries, not to say comfort. The principal, if not the only article, with which they command money, are a few beeves which might now in the present sparse settlements be raised in abundance.
Sabine River .- The head waters of this stream inter- lock with some of the tributaries of Red river, meanders about 300 miles and empties into Sabine Lake, an inlet ot
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the Gulf of Mexico. This river, is in part, the dividing line between Texas and the United States ; a kind of na- tional limit of very doubtful efficacy. As matter of conjec- ture, I would say that it may serve for such purpose as well as the Tweed has done in another hemisphere ; or it may hereafter answer the same purpose that a bad fence between individuals generally does. All speculation, however, on such subjects are perhaps premature ; for I am not gifted with the power of penetrating futurity, but at the same time think it highly probable that some future historian will record events connected with this little river which my early day in the world has as yet saved me the labor ; and perhaps the pain of committing to paper ; and it may serve a useful purpose for the Governments and people of both countries to bear this subject in mind.
The bottom lands on the Sabine are exceedingly rich, and produce cotton, sugar and corn in great abundance, while the uplands are either suitable for grazing, or are of value for their timber ; affording as they do, a tolerable supply of pure water, an article that is seldom if ever found in the alluvial bottoms. The principal points of busi- ness will be the towns of Belgrade, Hamilton, Pendleton and Sabine City. The first is a convenient river port for Shelby and the adjoining counties, in which the soil is generally of a light grey color, easy of cultivation, moder- ately productive ; and of a consistency favorable to the con- struction of good roads. The two last mentioned towns are destined to be the river ports for a larger scope of country, including a valuable district known in Texas as the Red Lands. These lands as well as the grey above mention- ed, possess qualities which prevent them from deteriorating under cultivation, so soon as the same process generally exhaust other uplands ; a fact that is well established by the
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experience of some of the best agriculturists in the Repub- lic of Texas.
Steam Boats of 5 feet water will in most seasons be able to ascend to all of the above mentioned towns for four or five months in the year, and to Belgrade in all seasons ; and this place will probably become the principal point of embarka- tion and discharge of cargoes for the greater portion of the the country east of Buffalo Bayou; and being situated in a well timbered and watered region, where there are some excellent sites for mills, etc., all things considered, as a place of residence and business, posseses advantages over any other location on the Sabine.
Sabine City, is located on the west ridge of Sabine pass, the site being somewhat elevated above the surrounding country. Vessels drawing nine feet water, can enter this pass, and of course the City of Sabine will possess commercial advantage over any other point east of Galveston.
Sabine Lake or Bay, is formed by the waters from the Gulf and the Sabine and Netches rivers, the last mention- ed of which not affording any commercial facilties, has not been described. The surrounding country, however, partakes of the character of that of the Sabine, and is as yet moderately cultivated ; the lands being generally in the hands of actual settlers, or those speculators who like the same class of individuals elsewhere, generally know as well how to estimate trees, rivers and creeks as to count dollars and cents. The town of Beaumont is locat- ed near the mouth of the Netches, and is deemed a place of some promise ; and the town of Zavala is laid out at the confluence of the River and Angelina Bayou and may in time assume some importance.
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Red River .- The source of this noble stream, as well as the Rio Grande, is alike beyond the limits of Texas, and near each other, both being swelled by the torrents from the Rocky Mountains; and while the Rio Grande skirts the Western boundary of Texas, and enters the Gulf of Mexico, Red river meanders through a vast extent of country on and near the northern border of Texas; final- ly passes through the south west corner of the United States and unites with the Mississippi a considerable dis- tance above New Orleans. Much of the country border- ing this river has never been explored, and would have been altogether impracticable for me and my party to have penetrated farther than the head waters of the Brassos and the Trinity ; and indeed we were fortunate that we did not pay dearly for the termerity of entering the haunts of those fierce and revengeful lords of the forest, provok. ed as they always have been by the insiduous approaches of white men. An excellent interpreter, kind treatment, good fortune, and a knowledge of Indian character, to- gether with our warlike equipments, preserved us; for few if any of them ever supposed that four men would ever be found scouring that remote region, without a reinforce- ment within striking distance.
Late one evening, when we were all fatigued, and per- haps more than one wished himself ensconced in a warm bed, or what is quite as likely, seated at a well spread board in a civilized country, we discovered a smoke at some distance and resolved to make for it, and set by the council fire of the copper face. Accordingly, spurring off at a good pace, we were not long in reaching his out posts, when before expecting it, we were hailed by a sentinel who spoke nearly the same language, if she did not possess the same mien, of the celebrated Helen McGregor "Stand!" said she. "What seek you in the Bidees coun.
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try?" Astonished at the salutation, particularly when coming from a woman, and yet not daring to exhibit our surprise, she was assured that we were a detachment from the army of General Rusk in pursuit of a deserter, whom .we knew was within her camp or village, which we per- ceived was then hard by. "Perfidious white man," said the heroine, "tell me none of your oily errands, your houses now stand on the graves of our people, in the far east, and the smoke yet rises from the ashes of those you have recently slaughtered in cold blood. Away, or it will be worse for you; provoke not my feeble frame to despe- ration, or by the Spirit of the sainted Mingo, and the prophet Tecumse, our fires shall roast your flesh and burn to ashes your bones, while your first sincere calls upon the Great Spirit shall be as unavailing as your hy- pocritical pretensions have hitherto been wicked and mis- chievous."
. There was no time to be lost, the signal had been made; we were discovered, and thirty warriors galloped up to the spot. Taking a belt of wampum with which I was pro- vided, I rode immediately up to the chief (who proved, to be a relation of the celebrated Cherokee Chief, Bowls) presented the belt on a point of a Bowie knife, about
twelve inches long. "Umph!" said he; "Peace or war," looking me steadfastly in the face, and then glancing at my companions, he demanded in broken English, the pur- pose of our visit. Pointing to the squaw, I replied that I had explained to her, and was impatient to know if the deserter would be surrendered, or if we must take him by force, remarking that we wanted nothing more, and at the same time gave a sign to the interpreter to sound the bugle. Placing the instrument to his mouth, but pos- sessing more wit than to blow it, which he knew I did not desire, the Indian waved his hand as if to prevent
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what he supposed was a call to those behind us, and at once declared that no white man was in their camp. I told him that being the case, there would be no harm in permit- ting us to sleep by his fires, not doubting, the least, said I, but you will be as hospitable in peace as you are brave in war, and before to-morrow's sun, the white man will . be here, and you shall see him hang on yonder tree.
The interpreter, a Mexican, now came forward and was making fair weather among the other warriors, when at length, the wampum sealed a treaty of peace for the night, which we spent in great glee with these noble mind- ed children of nature ; after making a trifling search for the supposed deserter of whom we had never heard before that evening, nor have I since.
From here we travelled through a most lovely country viewing the works of the Creator displayed in every .variety of form, while we were surrounded by dangers, - difficulties and prevations, but the same omnipotent hand that called this beautiful world into existence, protected us from death, and guarded me safe to my distined port ; and I now feel that I am unable to convey to the reader a correct and detailed description of this part of Texas . where many-
" A flower blooms to blush unseen, And waste its odors on the desert air."
But I made no doubt that within a few brief years the smoke of the settler's cabin will be winding its way to the clouds, where now there is little but the beauties of nature to be seen, and ever and anon, the ark deeply laden with rich products well greet the eye as they are wafted by the current of Red River, destined for the Emporium of Western America.
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With an intention of giving the reader, who perchance may hereafter seek a home in the Red river country, some idea respecting the frontier inhabitants, I will here relate an advanture substantially as it occurred.
After leaving the camp of the Bidees and approaching the settlements, our eyes were greeted by the sight of a sign board hung high on a tree from which by a close exami- nation we were enabled to dechiper the following, which I pencilled in my memorandum book.
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GEO. ANTONIA DWIGHT, KEEPS MUSTANGS AND PEOPLE, 14 LEAGUE OFF, RIGHT HAND PATH 3 TIMES.
Not having slept under a roof for some time, and our stock of provisions, powder, etc., being nearly exhausted. the right hand path was taken, and every right hand un- til we arrived at the advertised Hotel. This proved to be a large log house, divided into two apartments, one of which was occupied as a cooking, eating, and sleeping room, the other on our arrival was full of men of every color, black excepted, and contained for sale, tomahawks, bowie knives, powder and lead, some Indian trinkets. and a quantity of whiskey, which last article was being consumed at no slow rate.
Our interpreter now introduced us as Americans, who were viewing the country, and wished to remain there until the next day. Mr. Geo. Antonia Dwight, whose every feauture proclaimed the villian, bowed and muttered Mexican most obsequiously, presented us with a tin cup of whiskey, had our mustangs haltered and turn- ed out, and conducted us into the apartment of cooking, &c., among the ladies, three in number, viz: two Indian
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squaws and a Mexican woman, whom I do think, was of all God's creatures, the ugliest being I ever saw.
One of the red girls however was extremely handsome, and could speak English. I soon ascertained from whence she came, and having many years ago traveled through the Cherokee nation, and had their seen some of her re- latives, our acquaintance was soon made up, and she ap- peared desirous to render the accommodations of the Hotel as agreeable as possible. For my comrades I cannot be answerable, but I declined one honor which was prof- fered then as well as before and since, and which is cus- tomary among north American Indians, only regaling my- self with some of the substantials of life, and a first rate Havana, the last of my stock of segars.
Things wore on smoothly for some hours, but by 10 o'clock, as is often the case among frontier settlers, as well as elsewhere, the company was divided into parties; not in this instance for the purpose of elevating to the Presidency a favorite leader, but the subject of dispute was, who was the best man, or in other words who could whip.
It is extremely difficult to mingle with such characters and keep out of trouble ; a peaceable disposition and civil deportment is apt to be mistaken for timidity, while any thing like an officious display may lead to war at once; or what is worse, may excite hatred, and bring out a stab in the dark, when least expected. The best way is to assume a quiet determined attitu le which wil generally be respected, but if attacked, make short work. The alternative is disagreeable, but there is no other, and not to be governed by it, would be suicide.
! must do this crowd, however, the justice to say that I was treated with marked rerpect, and indeed, throughout all my travels in Texas, was never once assaulted, which
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is doubtless to be attributed to my complete armour for defence, and fixed resolution to move on in the even tenor . of my way, and send to eternity the first who sought my life. Never in fact any where in the country, did I per- ceive manifestations of unfriendly feelings towards me, except at Houston ; and this need be no matter of sur- prise, when apart from the complection of the society, the character of his Honor the Mayor, and Mr. Jno. W. Niles is considered, enough of one of whom has already been told, and the other is of too small a consequence for me to disgrace this volume by unfolding his treachery, 01 taking further notice of him in any way until I hereafter explain occurrences at Baltimore. I am thus particular in these statements for the benefit of others ; and future emigrants and travellers will do well to bear them in mind. Night wore apace, and as above mentioned, the parties, at Antonia Dwight's arranged themselves under different leaders, and after some hard fought battles, a cessation of hostilities was proclaimed, and while the vanquished went into quarters, occupying a position in the drinking room, the victors considering themselves entitled to ex- clusive privileges, retired to the ladies' drawing room, to enjoy their approving smiles.
The dance now began, but the light fantastic toe was not visible, and a more uncouth heterogeneous group never was seen, I presume, to put down flatty to the tune of a Banjo.
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" Now advancing-Now retreating, Now in circling crowds they meet ; With winks and nods and wreathing smiles See how the ladies bruise their feet !"
I had, to be sure, ere this, become somewhat accustom- ed to singular sights and sounds, and I quietly seated iny- self quafling a Mexican pipe, and mentally exclaiming
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. nature delights in variety, when a person entered the room, so different in appearance from the rest that he at once riveted my attention. His apparel consisted of a complete suit of Buckskin, handsomely dressed, and made in the style of small boy's clothes, fitting his frame appa- rently as close as his own hide. Around his body was a belt bearing a knife of about 12 inches blade, and a splen- did brace of pistols, while his right hand grasped a rifle of beautiful workmanship, which on entering the room and casting an inquisitive glance around, he carefully placed on a rack, and immediately joined the group danc- ing. It was evident at first sight, that he was no ordina- ry person ; his frame had been cast in one of nature's most beautiful moulds, and every feature indicated an in- tellect of no ordinary strength; and while he appeared to seek the excitement afforded by the sport of the even- ing, yet at times he seemed to recoil from the touch of those by whom he was surrounded ; his keen piercing eye would loose for a moment its lusture, and his noble coun- tenance was evershadowed with care.
For this man I involuntarily felt an interest, admiring his noble bearing, and that indescribable something that tells of a cultivated mind. I pictured to myself the cause of his present situation, not unmingled with sorrow, and re- solved, if possible, to learn something of his history, while I alternately conjectured that he was mourning the irre- parable loss of his heart's best love, or separated by great distance from objects of his tender regard; or what was still more probable, a voluntary exile from civilization, the result of misfortunes which had perchance originated in a liberal and too hasty a temperament, the victim of worse men too powerful to withstand.
The dance and song went round in which I eventually
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as a matter of policy, reluctantly joined, and when my tall friend had become somewhat elated with the stimulating beverage, much to my satisfaction, and as I expected, ap- proached me, and opened a conversation. Stranger. said he, you are not very fond of this kind of company but make yourself at home, you have friends here, or at any rate a friend. I was not so much pleased with this assur- ance as with the tones of the voice in which it was con- veyed, and the evident sincerity depicted on his counte- nance ; and thanking him for his attention, remarked that I should always feel at home when in his company, and that if I was not much mistaken, he too, had moved in circles more congenial with his feelings. He paused, but at length replied, or rather exclaimed, that he had, but, said he, let us not recall miserics that are past and are too apt to return unbid ; but rather seek relief and drown sor- row than lead a life of hopeless' grief. Then suddenly grasping the intoxicating bowl, he convulsively swallow- ed a portion that too plainly betrayed the melancholy in- fluence of blighted hopes.
In a subsequent conversation I was made acquainted with his whole history, the particulars of which, though not uninstructive, I am at his special request not at liberty to relate further than that he was reared, "in my own. my native land," and was once Virginia's hopeful son. His career as well as that of other mnen whom I saw in Texas, carried conviction to the mind, that it is not all who have even fled their country who are depraved at heart ; but that many are there who have indeed been children of misfortune, and not of crime.
The course of human life is changeful etill, As is the fickle wind and wandering rill ; Or the light dance which the wild breeze weaver, Amidst the faded race of fallen leaves,
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Which now its breath bears down, now tosses high- Beats to the earth, or wafts to middle sky Such and so varied-the precarious clay Of fate with man, frail tenant of a day .- Anonymous.
Of the locality and size of all water courses not describ- ed in this work, a referance to the accompanying map will convey a definate idea to the reader ; none are however omitted that will ever afford any commercial facilities; and Solodo Sobolo, Medina, Oyster, and Crow creeks, with Angelina and Chockolate Bayous, are all that deserve a passing notice ; the last mentioned of which, is the more worthy of remark, being an inlet of Galveston Bay, and having located on its margin the high sounding City of Liverpool. This, however, like some other Cities, is not yet built ; but the streets and public squares as disclosed on the face of a map, if compared to those in the City of Brotherly love, Washington, Franklin, and Indepen- dence squares, with the spacious streets which are omna- ments as well as conveniences to Philadelphia, dwindle into insignificance ; and these kind of maps, when exhib- ited to strangers, frequently captivate an unlucky specula- tor ; and in vulgar parlance, "the way he is sucked in, is a caution."
Among the towns not situated on navigable waters, the most important is Nacogdoches, in a highly pictur- esque country, the town being nearly surrounded by woody bluffs, from the base of which, flows an abundant supply of pure water, while the handsome little streets are fre- quently cleaned of impurities by heavy showers of rain. sweeping their surface, and then gliding off to the Bonita and La Nina creeks, which unite near by.
Nacogdoches was founded by Spanish authority in 1725, and under the fostering care of the Government grew to be an important military post, as well as a place of con-
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siderable traffic ; the surrounding Indians resorting there in great numbers in pursuit of presents and supplies ; making it also at different times the theatre of interesting events by the alternate treaties of peace and bloody bat- tles, which seem to be the fatal consequence of any inter- course between white men and these rightful red lords of' the forest. Skirmishes were at different periods of fre- quent occurrence, and a most desolating warfare was waged here during the revolution, that severed Texas from Mexico.
As early as 1827, a hostile disposition was manifested - towards the Mexican authorities at this place ; an adven- ture that it has been said the celebrated Colonel Burr and other citizens of the United States were involved in, but the ostensible leader was a Mr. Edwards, one of the Em- prasarios, who sought to impose on emigrants by selling their lands, which had been granted by the government to him on the usual terms ; these being such as forbid hinr to sell. It however proved an abortive attempt, and Ed- wards not being sustained by a sufficient force, abandoned his claims and left the country. It may not be improper to remark here, that the liberal policy of the Mexican government in granting bounty lands to emigrants seems to have defeated its object, inasmuch as it nurtured a thrist for large bodies of land in single hands, a measure always to be deprecated, while the general bad faith with which the Emprasarios complied with their engagements, created much illfeeling between them and the settlers, and eventually led to dissention with the government, on whose shoulders all blame was shifted by those artful men after having possessed themselves of a large portion of the country. This subject, however, will be fully discuss- ed in a subsequent part of this work, and it is only necess ?- ry to inform the reader at present, that with the excep
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tion of Gen. Austin's first grant, on the Brassos, the stipu- lated conditions were in no instance complied with on the part of the grantees, known by the government as Emprasa- rios, and that out of the numerous large grants made by Mexico, Austin's is the only one where the titles to this day are clearly indisputable. The inhabitants of Na- cogdoches number at present 800, who in their com- mon deportment will compare handsomely with any por- tion of those in the United States south of Mason and Dixon's line ; and among them are several gentlemen of fine talents and acquirements, and the cultivation of the surrounding country, with the manners of the people, exhibit a state of society of worth and respectability.
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