USA > Virginia > A history of the valley of Virginia, 1st ed > Part 36
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Paddy's mountain is a branch of the Great North mountain, and is about 18 or 20 miles long. It takes its name from an Irishman, whose name was Patrick Black, who first settled at what is now called Paddy's . gap in this mountain. This fact was communicated to the author by Moses Russell, Esq.
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Natural curiosities.
It would require perhaps several volumes to give a minute description of all the natural and interesting cu- riosities of our country. The inquisitive individual can scarcely travel more than a mile or two in any direction among our mountains, but some sublime and grand work of nature presents itself to the eve, which excites his wonder and admiration. The author must there- fore content himself with a brief description of a com- paratively few of the most remarkable. He will com- mence his narrative with Harpers-Ferry. This won- derful work of nature has been so accurately described by Mr. Jefferson that it is deemed unnecessary to give a detailed description of it. Suffice it to say, that no stran- ger can look at the passage of the waters of the Poto- mac and Shenandoah, rushing through the yawning gap of the mountain, without feeling awe at the gran- deur and sublimity of the scene, and ready to prostrate himself in adoration before that omnipotent God whose almighty arm hath made all things according to his own wisdom and power.
It is much to be regretted that a Capt. Henry, during the administration of the elder Adams in 1799, when what was called the provisional army was raising, and a part of which was stationed at Harpers-Ferry, greatly injured one among the most interesting curiosities of this place. A rock of extraordinary shape and of con- siderable size stands on the brink of a high hill, on the south side of the tung or point of land immediately in the fork of the river. The apex of this rock was a broad flat table. supported on a pivot, on which Mr. Jef- ferson, during his visit to this place, inscribed his name. from whence it took the name of Jefferson's rock.
'The years 1799 and 1799 were a period of extraor- dinary political excitement. The two great political
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parties, federal and democratic, of our country, were at this period completely organized, and an interesting struggle for which party should have the ascendency was carried on. This same Capt. Henry, whether ac- tuated by the same motive which impelled the Macedo- nian youth to murder Philip his king, or whether he hoped to acquire popularity with his party, (he calling himself a federalist,) or whether from motives purely hostile towards Mr. Jefferson and all the democratic party, placed himself at the head of a band of soldiers, and with the aid of his myrmidons hurled off the apex of this rock, thus wantonly, and to say the least, unwise- ly destroying the greatest beauty of this extraordinary work of nature. By this illiberal and unwise act Capt. Henry has "condemned his name to everlasting fame."
Caves in the county of Jeferson .- About seven or eight miles above Harpers-Ferry, on the west side of the Shenandoah, nearly opposite the Shannondale springs, from a quarter to a half mile from the river, a limestone cave has been discovered, which contains se- veral beautiful incrustations or stalactites formed from the filtration of the water.
Near Mecklenburg (Shepherdstown), another cave has been found, out of which considerable quantities of hydraulic limestone is taken, and when calcined or re- duced to lime, is found to make a cement little if any inferior to plaster of paris. Out of this cave a concre- ted limestone was taken, which the author saw in the possession of Dr. Boteler of Shepherdstown, which at first view presents to the eye, in shape, a striking resem- blance to that of a fish of considerable size. A smaller one was found at the same time, which has a strong re- semblance to a mink. Several intelligent individuals were induced to believe they were genuine petrifactions.
Caves in the county of Frederick .- In the county of Frederick are to be seen five or six of those caves. Zane's cave, now on the lands owned by the heirs of the late Maj. James Bean, is the one described by the late Mr. Jefferson in his "Notes on Virginia." This
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cavethe author partially explored about eighteen months ago, but found it too fatiguing to pursue his examina- tion to any considerable extent. The natural beauty of this place has of late years been greatly injured by the smoke from the numerous pine torches used to light it. All the incrustations and spars are greatly darkened, git- ing the cave a somber and dull appearance. The au- thor was informed, on his visit to this place, that Maj. Bean, shortly before his death, cut out several of the spars, reduced them to lime, sprinkled it over some of his growing crops, and found that it produced all the effects of gypsum.
On the lands late the residence of Capt. Edward McGuire, deceased, is another cave of some considera- ble extent; but its incrustations and spars are of a mud- dy yellowish color, and not considered a very interest- ing curiosity.
Adjoining the lands of Mr. James Way, the former residence of the late Col. C. M. Thruston, an extensive cave of very singular and curious formation was disco- vered many years ago. On exploring it with the aid of a pocket compass, the needle was found running to eve- ry part of it.
On the east side of the Shenandoah river, some two or three miles below Berry's ferry, at the base of the Blue ridge, a cave of considerable extent has been dis- covered, containing several curiosities. About two miles below this cave, on the same side of the river, is to be seen what was anciently called Redman's fishery. At the base of a rock a large subterraneous stream of water is discharged into the river. At the approach of winter myriads of fish make their way into this subter- raneous stream, and take up their winter quarters. In the spring they return into the river. By placing a fish aasket in the mouth of the cavern, great quantities of fine fresh water fish are taken, both in the autumn and spring of the year. The author recollects being at this place upwards of fifty years ago, just after Mr. Redman had taken up his fish basket, and can safely amfirm, that
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he drew out of the water from two to three bushels of fish at a single haul.
On Crooked run, near Bethel meeting house, on the lands now owned by Mr. Stephen Grubb, is a limestone cave, which the author has more than once been in. It does not exceed one hundred yards in length, and is remarkable only for its production of saltpetre, and pre- serving fresh meats in hot weather.
The Panther cave on the north bank of Cedar creek, owned by Maj. Isaac Hite, about a half or three fourths of a mile west of the great highway from Winchester to Staunton, is a remarkable curiosity. Nature has here formed a most beautiful and solid upright wall of gray limestone rock, of about one hundred yards in length, near the west end of which is to be seen an elegant arch, of about sixty feet in front, ten or twelve feet high in the center, and extending twenty-five or thirty feet under the body of the wall. There are two circular apertures running into the body of the rock from the arch, one about twelve inches in diameter, the other somewhat smaller. Whether these openings do or do not lead into large apartments or caverns in the body of the rock, is not and probably never will be known. Tradition relates that at the early settlement of the country this place was known to be the hant and habi- tation of the panther, from which it derives its naine.
We have two natural wells in this county; one at what is called the Dry marsh, a drain of the Opequon, about two miles east of the creek, not more than a quar- ter of a mile north of the road leading from Winches- ter to Berryville. This natural well in dry seasons fur- nishes several contiguous families with water. It is formed by a natural circular opening in an apparently solid limestone rock. Its walls are undulating, and in times of dry seasons the water sinks some sixteen or eighteen feet below the surface, but at all times furnishcs abundant supplies. In the winter, no matter how great the degree of cold, small fish are frequently drawn up with the water from the well. In times of freshets, the 28
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water rises above the surface, and discharges a most beautiful current for several weeks at a time. Tradi- tion relates that this well was discovered at the first set- tlement of the neighborhood.
The other natural well is the one described by Mr. Jefferson. This natural curiosity first made its appear- ance on the breaking up of the hard winter of 1779-80. All the old people of our country doubtless recollect the great falls of snow and severity of this remarkable win- ter. The author was born, and lived with his father's family until he was about thirteen years of age, within one and a half miles of this natural well. The land at that period was owned by the late Col. Fielding Lewis, of Fredericksburg, Va., but is now the property of the heirs of the late Mr. Thomas Castleman, in the neigh- borhood of Berryville. Nature had here formed a cir- cular sink of a depth of some fourteen or fifteen feet, and fifty or sixty feet in diameter at the surface. In the spring of the year 1780, the earth at the bottom of this sink suddenly gave way and fell into the cavity be- low, forming a circular aperture about the ordinary cir- cumference of a common artificial well. It was soon discovered that a subterraneous stream of water passed under the bottom. There being no artificial or natural means to prevent the earth immediately about the well from falling in, the aperture is greatly enlarged, form- ing a sloping bank, by which a man on foot can easily descend within eight or ten feet of the water. The current of water is quite perceptible to the eye. The whole depth of the cavity is thirty or thirty-five feet.
Caves in the county of Shenandoah .- Within two or three miles of Woodstock, on the lands of William Payne, Esq. is an extensive cavern. which it is said has naver yet been explored to its termination. It contains Inany curious inernstations, stalactites, &c. From the mouth of this cavern, a constant current of cold af is discharged, and the cavern is used by its owners as a place to preserve : heir fresh meats in the hottest seasone of the year.
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On the east side of the South fork of the Shenan- doah river, three or four miles south of Front Royal, there are two caves but a short distance apart, which, like all other caves, contain beautiful curiosities. One of them many years ago was visited and explored by the late celebrated John Randolph of Roanoke; but the author has never been able to learn whether he com- mitted to writing his observations upon it. One of its greatest curiosities is an excellent representation of the hatter's kettle.
Within about three miles north west of Mount Jack- son, Shaffer's cave is situated. It has been explored about half a mile. It is not very remarkable for its natural production of curiosities. Tradition relates an amusing story in connection with it. A very large hu- man skeleton was many years ago found in this cavern, the skull bone of which a neighboring man had the curiosity to take to his dwelling house. This aroused the ghost of the dead man, who, not being pleased with the removal of his head, very soon appeared to the de- predator and harassed him until he became glad to re- turn the skull to its former habitation. The ghost then became appeased and ceased his visits. It is said that there are many people to this day in the neighborhood, who most religiously believe that the ghost did really and truly compel the offender to return his skull. The author saw in the possession of Doctor Wetherall, of Mount Jackson, one of the arm bones of this skeleton, that part extending from the shoulder to the elbow, which was remarkable for its thickness, but was not of very uncommon length. At that time he had not been visited by the ghost to demand his arm; but perhaps he was not so tenacious of it as he was of his head.
In the county of Page, within about three miles of Luray, a cave, but little inferior to Wyer's cave, was some years ago discovered, a graphic description of which was written by W. A. Harris, Esq. and published in the Woodstock Sentinel of the Valley, and copied pretty generally throughout the union.
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Ebbing and flowing springs .- Pretty high up Cedar creek there is a beautiful spring of clear moun- tain water, issuing from the western side of the Little North mountain, in a glen, which ebbs and flows twice in every twenty-four hours. It rises at ten o'clock in the morning, and ebbs at four in the evening. It is in a perfect state of nature, has considerable fall imme- diately from its mouth, so that it cannot conveniently be ascertained precisely what is its greatest rise and fall, When the author saw it it was down, and he could not conveniently spare the time to wait to see it rise. But the author's informant (Mr. J. Bond) went with him to the spring, and assured him that he had repeatedly scen it rise. The author is also informed that there is a salt sulphur spring, on the land late the property of Mr. John Lee, but a short distance from where the Staunton stage road crosses Cedar creek, which has a dairy erected over it. The respectable widow of Mr. Lee informed the author, but a few days since, that this spring ebbs and flows twice in every twenty-four hours, and that if care is not particularly taken at. every flow, its current is so strong as to overset the vessels of milk placed in the water.
Falling run .- Some thirteen or fourteen miles south west of Winchester, and within about two miles of the residence of Moses Russell, Esq. in the county of Fre- derick. is to be seen what is called the Falling run. Between what the neighboring people call Falling ridge (the commencement of Paddy's mountain) and the Great North mountain. pretty near the summit, on the east side of the mountain, a fine large spring rises, form- ing a beautiful lively stream of water of sufficient force to work a grist mill. This stream pursues its serpentine course through a glen of several hundred yards in width, of gradual descent, between the mountain and Falling ridge. Pursuing its course in a northerly direction from its fountain, for about one and a half miles, it makes a pretty sudden turn to the east, and shoots over a solid granite rock probably not less than one hundred
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feet high. The first 1.8 or 20 feet of the rock over which the water passes is a little sloping, over which the water spreads and covers a surface of 15 or 16 fect, from whence the fall is entirely perpendicular, and strikes on a mass of solid rock; it then forms an angle of about 45 degrees, rushing and foaming over an un- dulating surface, of about 90 or 100 feet; from thence there is a third fall of about the same length, and the water pitches into a hole of considerable depth ; from thence it escapes down a more gradual descent, and within a short distance reaches pretty level ground, and suddenly becomes a gentle, smooth, placid current, as if it is pleased to rest from the violent agitations and turmoils through which it has just passed. At the first base reached by the water, a perpetual mist arises, which, viewed on a clear sunshiny day, presents to the eye a most interesting and beautiful sight. The whole fall is little if any less than three hundred feet.
A short distance to the south of this place, at the junction of the Falling ridge with the North mountain, is to be seen what the neighboring people call "the Pinnacle." The apex of this pinnacle is a flat, broad table, supported on a pivot, and can be set in motion by the hands of a man, and will continue to vibrate for several minutes. There are several small caverns in this rock, and it is known to be the abode of the turkey buzzards in the winter, where they remain in a state of torpitude. Mr. Russell informed the author that he once took out a torpid buzzard in the winter, laid it on the sunny side of the rock, and it very soon regained life and motion.
Trout pond .- In the county of Hardy, about eight or nine miles south of the late residence of James Ster- rit, Esq. deceased, and a little east of Thornbottom, is situated a most beautiful miniature lake, called the Trout pond. A large spring rises near the summit of the Great North mountain, descending on the west side into a deep glen, between the mountain and a very high ridge immediately east of Thornbottom, in which
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glen nature has formed a receptacle of unknown depth for this stream of water .. This stream forms a pond covering an area of about one and a half acres, nearly an oblong square. Nature never presented to the eye a more perfectly beautiful sheet of water. It is as trans- parent as crystal, and abounds with fine trout fish.
The late Col. Taverner Beal, upwards of forty years ngo, described this place to the author, and stated that he could safely affirm that he believed he had seen ten thousand trout at a single view in this pond. Col. Beal also informed the author that himself and a friend of his once made a raft, and floated to the center of the pond, where they let down a plumb and line, (the au- thor does not now recollect the length of the line, though it was certainly not less than forty feet,) but did not succeed in reaching the bottom. A Mr. Ghocanour, who resides near this place, informed the author that he had heard it was fathomed many years ago, and was found to be 60 feet deep, but did not know the certainty or truth of this report. The water is dis- charged at the northeast corner of the pond, and after descending about two miles, works a saw mill, and thirty or forty yards from the mill falls into a sink and entirely disappears. This sink is in the edge of Thornbottom, a pretty narrow strip of fertile limestone land, which affords between the mountains a residence for four or five families, each of whom has a fine spring of water, all which, after running a short distance, also disappear. 'The stream of water from the pond, doubtless conside- rably increased by the waters of Thornbottom, again appears at the northern termination of a very high ridge called "the Devil's garden." It bursts out in one of the finest and largest springs the author has ever seen. It is said that this subterranean passage of the water is fully eight miles in length. This spring is within about one quarter of a mile from Mr. Sterrett's dwelling house, and forms the beautiful stream of water called 'I'rout run, which is a valuable tributary of the Capon river.
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> "The Devil's garden" is truly a wonderful work of nature, Between two lofty ranges of the Sandy ridge and North mountain a strip of ground, about half a mile in width, commences rising gently from the head of Trout run, and pursues its regular ascent for three miles, when it abruptly terminates, at its southern ex- tremity, in a vast pile of granite rocks, having a per- pendicular hight of some four or five hundred feet. 'This immense pile is entirely separated from and indepen- dent of its neighboring mountains, having a vast chasm on its two sides and southern termination. At its south end it is covered with nearly level rocks, forming a floor of about an acre. This floor is curiously marked with fissures on the surface of various distances apart. On the eastern side of this floor stands a statue, or per- haps it may more appropriately be called a bust, about seven feet high : the head, neck and shoulders, bear a strong resemblance to those of a man, and from the breast downwards it gradually enlarges in size from two and a half to three feet in diameter. It is without arms. It stands on a level table of rock, is of a dark color, and. presents to the eye a frowning, terrific appear- ance. When this singular curiosity was first discover- ed, some superstitious people concluded it was the im- age of the Devil ; and hence the name of " The De- vil's garden." Near his satanic majesty anciently stood a four square stone pillar, of about two and a half feet diameter, and ten or twelve feet high. This pillar is bruken off at its base, crosses a chasm, and reclines, something in the form of an arch, against the opposite rock.
About 100 feet below the stand of the statue, a door lets into numerous caverns in the rock, the first of which for ns a handsome room of moderate size, the floors above and below being tolerably smooth and level. From this room there is a handsome flight of stone steps ascending into a room of larger size, and so on from one room to another, until twelve different apartments are passed through, and then reaches the top of the rocks.
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The late Mr. Sterrett, in riding with the author to view this extraordinary work of nature, said that it was diffi- cult for an old man to get access to the inlet, of course I did not attempt it. Mr. Babb, who resides in its neigh- borhood, informed the author he had frequently explor- ed the cavern ; and the young people of the neighbor- hood, male and female, frequently; in parties of plea- sure, visit and pass through its various apartments.
Lost river .- Here again the eye is presented with another evidence of the all-powerful arm of God ! This river heads in several small springs, on a high ridge of land near Brock's gap, which divides the waters of the North fork of the Shenandoah from the waters of the Lost river. This water course meanders through a beautiful valley of fine alluvial land, a distance of about 25 miles. On its west side, some ten or twelve miles below its head springs, is a cavern at the eastern base of "Lost river mountain," which has been explored about one hundred yards (some say more) from its mouth. Over the inlet is a handsomely turned arch twelve or fourteen feet wide, and six or seven high. From this cavern is discharged a stream of beautiful water, re- markable for its degree of coldness. It is called "the cold spring cave." The mouth of this cave effectually preserves fresh meats of every kind from injury in the hottest seasons. This cave exhibits but few curiosities.
Some 10 or 12 miles further down, the river comes in contact with Lost river mountain (which is,of con- siderable magnitude), has cut its way through the moun- tain, and about two miles further down has to encoun- ter a second mountain called Timber ridge, through which it has forced its way, and one and a half or two miles further has to contend with Sandy ridge, a moun- tein of considerable hight and width. Here the water and mountain appear to have had a mighty struggle for the ascendency. In flood times, Mrs. River, despising all obstructions, forces her way through a yawning, frowning chasm. But at times of low water, when her ladyship is less powerful, his giantship the mountain
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defies all ber power to remove a huge mass of adaman- tine rocks, which obstructs her passage in the gap; but to remedy this evil, Mrs. River has adroitly and cunning- ly undermined the mountain, formed for herself a sub- terraneous passage, and generously supplies her sister Capon with all the water she has to spare. It is impos- sible for the inquisitive eye to view this mighty work of nature without being struck with the idea of the great obstruction and mighty difficulty this water had to con- tend with in forcing a passage through this huge moun- tain. The author viewed this place with intense inter- est and curiosity. At the western base of the mountain, the water has found various apertures, one of which is under the point of a rock, of 7 or 8 feet wide, which appears to be the largest inlet. For the distance of about a quarter of a mile from the sink, not a drop of water is to be seen in times of drought. There are se- veral large springs which issue from the mountain in the gap, forming a small stream, which always runs through it. The water of the river has a subterrane- ous passage of full three miles, and is discharged in several very large springs at the eastern base of the mountain. These several springs form the great foun- tain head of Capon river.
An old man and his son, (their names not recollect- ed,) whose dwelling is very near the sink, related a very singular occurrence which they represented as having happened a few days before the author's visit to this place. They stated that several dogs were in pursuit of a deer on the mountain-that the deer ran to the brink of a rock, at least 100 feet high, which is very near the sink, and the poor animal being pretty closely pursued, leaped from the rock, and falling on a very rough, stony surface, was terribly crushed and bruised by the fall, and instantly expired. They immediately ran to it and opened the large veins in the neck, but lit- tle blood was discharged. They took off the skin, and cut up the flesh ; but most parts of it were so much bruised and mangled as to be unfit for use.
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