History of Rutland County, Vermont, with illustrations and biographical sketches of some of its prominent men and pioneers, Part 4

Author: Smith, H. P. (Henry Perry), 1839-1925. 1n; Rann, William S
Publication date: 1886
Publisher: Syracuse, N.Y., D. Mason & co.
Number of Pages: 1170

USA > Vermont > Rutland County > History of Rutland County, Vermont, with illustrations and biographical sketches of some of its prominent men and pioneers > Part 4

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HISTORY OF RUTLAND COUNTY.

Moose Horn Mountain, in Wells, on the banks of Lake St. Cathrine, is among the most peculiar of the Taconic group. The eastern side slopes gradu- ally from the summit to the valley beneath; the western face presents a bold and almost startling aspect, from its abruptness. A barren rock, with its front cut straight in the direction of its length and nearly perpendicular from foot to crown, adds beauty, even to the lake lying at its foot. There are many other elevations in the county that lend beauty and grandeur to the locality, but fur- ther detailed descriptions of their characteristics would far exceed the space allotted here to the landscape scenery that has given the county a wide fame.

Streams. - With the somewhat severe climate of Rutland county and her rugged surface, her general agricultural prosperity must be attributed more to the skill and industry of her husbandmen than to any native generosity of Mother Earth. Her geographical inland position offers little opportunity for a great commercial center. Though her quarries of marble and slate are unsur- passed, her mineral resources dwindle into insignificance when compared with those of other counties of equal extent in the Middle and Western States. Wanting in those elements that form a foundation for the prosperity of the State, nature, as if mindful of her neglect, has placed at our disposal one of the mightiest of visible motors, a gift too precious to be carelessly squandered.

To the many visitors who annually seek this region to recuperate health and pass the season in idleness it scarcely occurs that from these hills and val- leys flow scores of streams, furnishing along their course the foundation and source of wealth. Nature, at best, makes but few spontaneous contributions to the wealth and prosperity of nations. The amount of property possessed by a people will always depend greatly upon the skill and labor they apply in de- veloping natural resources. Rutland county has not to any considerable extent improved the advantages at her command ; but as they have been improved, so has she prospered. More than three-fourths of the water power of the county is still undeveloped.

The Otter Creek is the longest stream in Vermont, extending ninety-one miles and watering about 900 square miles. It originates in Mount Tabor, Peru and Dorset, within a few rods of the head of the Battenkill, and runs through the entire length of the county. The curious fact exists that these two rivers, which rise within a few rods of each other, are of about equal length ; the Battenkill running south to the Hudson River and the Otter Creek north into Lake Champlain. The latter offers along its course important and valuable water power. At Sutherland Falls, Middlebury and Weybridge are valuable falls which would afford power for the use of millions of dollars in manufactures. There are already located upon its banks some of the finest manufacturing establishments in the State. In the lower part of its course its rate of descent is very small, except an occasional fall over ledges of rocks ; the upper part of its course is over an undulating country. There are moraine

NATURAL CHARACTERISTICS.

or glacier terraces on both sides of the creek from Danby to Clarendon. In Wallingford the valley is narrow and quite deep, but is much wider at Claren- don. At Sutherland Falls the creek passes over rocks, finally tumbling down a precipice. These falls afford one of the most valuable mill privileges in the State, and the surroundings are picturesque and beautiful. The spot is well worthy of a visit from those who justly appreciate attractive scenery. A wide- spread and beautiful valley opens to the north, thickly studded with comfort- able and ofttimes elegant farm-houses, with well-fenced and highly-cultivated fields, beyond which and still farther northward the landscape presents a pano- rama of rare beauty. From this point commences a meadow often over two miles wide and extending to Middlebury. Here it begins to narrow and in this condition extends to Vergennes, where it is interrupted by a ledge of rocks, after which it continues uninterrupted to Lake Champlain.

There are numerous tributaries to Otter Creek, of which the following are the more important : Mill River, which rises in Mount Holly, following the route of the Rutland Railroad to Cuttingsville where it turns west to Otter Creek. At this point it cuts through a high ridge of rock, forming a deep gorge. East Creek joins the Otter Creek in the village of Rutland, having its rise in Chittenden ; just below South Chittenden on the creek is a fine mo- raine terrace of considerable breadth. Furnace Brook rises in Chittenden and joins the creek in Pittsford. The village of North Chittenden is located in a fine basin hollowed out of the highest terrace. Between these and Pittsford the stream passes through a rocky gorge and the scenery in the vicinity is quite picturesque. Tinmouth River empties into the Otter Creek near Center Rutland. Its source is in Danby and it flows through a narrow valley which, after reaching Rutland, begins to expand. Poultney River rises in Tinmouth and traverses Middletown, Poultney, Fairhaven and Westhaven and falls into East Bay, an arm of Lake Champlain; its length is about twenty-five miles. It affords many valuable mill sites. At Carver's a peculiar change in the channel took place in 1783 ; the stream cut a gorge at that point one hun- dred feet deep, lowering the bed of the river for some distance above and car- rying immense quantities of earth into East Bay. The meadows upon this stream are extensive and fertile. Among its tributaries are Codman's Creek in Westhaven, Hubbardton River and Castleton River. Upon the latter there is a distinct basin of moraine terraces, embracing the villages of Castleton and Castleton Corners. On this river, before it reaches Ira, where the stream has cut through the Taconic range of mountains in West Rutland, is a terrace. Near the celebrated marble quarries the stream runs through a meadow, quite low and marshy, forming an extended terrace. It is remarkable that so lim- ited a stream should rise east of a range of mountains one thousand feet high, and, after flowing to the south seven miles, suddenly bend its course at right angles and cut through the mountain ; especially is this true when an obstruc-

HISTORY OF RUTLAND COUNTY.

tion of a few feet in the gorge would divert the stream southeast to the Otter Creek. This gorge runs east and west, contrary to the usual direction of ex- cavated valleys in Vermont, and as it is in the region of curious and gigantic disturbances of the underlying strata, it is probable that the valley of the stream through Ira was formed in some other way than by erosion. Pawlet River in the southwestern part of the county is the only other important stream to be named ; it affords many excellent mill sites which were useful in the olden times. It rises in Dorset Mountain and passes through that town- ship and Pawlet to Whitehall, N. Y. At West Dorset the meadows along its banks expand and are especially fertile. At the village of Pawlet, where Flower Creek joins Pawlet River, the view of terraces is unusually instructive and adds beauty to the scenery.

There are several other minor streams which will find mention in subse- quent town histories.

Mineral Springs. - There are many mineral springs of various qualities and characteristics scattered through the county. The most famous are the Clarendon Springs, which are doubtless among the finest ever visited for their medicinal virtues, and about a quarter of a century ago were probably more resorted to than any others in the State. A tradition exists that their medi- cinal character was first discovered in 1776 by Asa Smith, who resided in the eastern part of the township. As report has it, he dreamed of a spring in the western part of the town, and, full of faith, started through the wilderness and over the high hills in search of the fount to furnish the water that should re- store him to health. Arriving at this point he recognized it as the spring that was the object of his dream, and from the use of its waters regained his health. This is the narration of the discovery as it has come down through the genera- tions. The first current use of the waters began in 1794; in 1798 a frame hotel was built, and since 1800 the spring has been constantly visited by many persons suffering from cutaneous diseases, and large quantities of the water have been conveyed away in jugs and barrels by people of the surrounding country. From fifteen hundred to two thousand persons have in some years visited these springs for health and recreation. Through the discovery of other mineral springs of similar medicinal qualities the number of visitors has fallen off in the past twenty years. An excellent hotel and several boarding houses now afford accommodations for visitors. The waters resemble the springs of Germany, and their curative qualities result more from gaseous than mineral characteristics.

The Middletown Springs, that for a time gained celebrity for curative prop- erties, were first made use of in 1862, although it is claimed that their mineral qualities were known to physicians prior to 1811. They are located on the north bank of Poultney River. In 1868 several parties reported cases that had been benefited by the use of the water for various disorders. Their fame

NATURAL CHARACTERISTICS.

spread rapidly and many wanted their waters at all seasons of the year. A large bottling establishment was erected and the water was shipped to all sec- tions of the country. That the waters possess mineral and curative qualities there is no doubt and in some cases are valuable as a remedial agent ; but ex- aggerated statements on this point have been made. In 1870 the Mont Vert Hotel was erected, which annually accommodates several hundred guests who come to the springs for rest, recuperation or pleasure.

Lakes of Rutland County.1 - Lake Bombazine lies in a basin of Georgia, or argillaceous slate. It is eight miles long form north to south, and two and one-half miles wide at its widest part. Three-fourths lie in the town of Castleton, and one fourth in Hubbardton. That portion in Hubbardton is very marshy and muddy, while that in Castleton, in some places, is very deep and the shores are rocky, or gravelly. It receives its waters from the slopes of the adjacent country through Hopkins, Beaver Meadow, and Sucker Brooks on the east side; Johnston's Brook and the outlet of Screw-driver Pond on the west side; Jelliff's and Rumsey's Brooks in the town of Hubbardton ; and other rills without names along the shores. The waters flow southward and empty through the creek into Castleton River at Hydeville.

The lake has long been called " Bombazine." It is uncertain when or how it received this name, but tradition says that when the country was new the lake was surrounded by a heavy growth of green forest trees, which reflected upon the surface of the water a green shade resembling the cloth called bom- bazine, and by common consent it thus came into general use.

Another tradition says that soon after the town commenced to be settled a peddler crossed the lake on the ice having several webs of bombazine on his sled ; one web was unrolled and trailed on the ice nearly the whole distance across the lake, which ruined the piece. The peddler then named the lake Bombazine. Whichever explanation is the correct one, it evidently is derived from the name of the cloth then known as bombazine. The name is spelled on William Blodgett's map of Vermont Bombazon. But the first time it is mentioned as Bombazine is in a deed from Samuel Moulton July 23, 1804, in the Castleton land records. From that period up to the present the word oc- curs occasionally. In some of the deeds it is spelled " Bombazine," in others " Bombazeen." In the earliest Castleton land records, and even up to quite recently, the lake has been called "The Pond," " Castleton Pond," " The Great Pond," " The Grate Pond."

About 1867, or a little later, Mr. R. M. Copeland, who had purchased con- siderable land property at West Castleton, and who was somewhat identified with the slate interests there, and who was a great admirer of the scenery of that region, claimed that the name was taken from the famous Norridgewock chief, Bomazeen, who was killed in 1724, and in some way the lake in Castle-

1 Prepared and contributed by Dr. John M. Currier, of Castleton.

HISTORY OF RUTLAND COUNTY.

ton was named after him, and had been misspelled " Bombazine." Through his influence, no one interposing an objection to his authority, the word " Bomo- seen," instead of "Bomazeen," came into general use. But there was not the least foundation for his assertion as to the relationship of the Norridgewock chief to the lake in Castleton. Bombazine is the name given that body of water when mentioned as a lake by the early settlers of the town, and the one that has been generally adopted by common usage, and the one which should be now nsed.

The east side of the lake is skirted with fertile and slightly elevated slate ridges. On the west side parallel with the lake runs the West Castleton range of mountains, which affords an inexhaustible supply of roofing slate. In many places the waters of the lake wash the foot of the monntain, making it im- practicable building a road along its shore.

Commencing on the east side of the outlet of the lake, following the shore around, the various points of interest are as follows : The " Indian Fields " is a plateau of over twenty acres of sandy land, about ten feet above the level of the lake, on which many Indian relics have been found. This was the site of an Indian village, of which tribe we have no authentic record, yet some of the older settlers remember seeing Indian families return in the summer season to visit the homes of their childhood. The specimens were all upon the surface.

Green Bay is north of the "Indian Fields," and was so called from the evergreens growing upon the shore.

Hopkins Brook is a small stream that empties into the lake north of Green Bay. It is named after an early proprietor of the farm through which it runs.

Mason's Point is a rocky ledge that runs into the lake still farther to the north. It was named after Robert Mason, a native of Simsbury, Conn., who bought the land in 1782.

Shaw's Bay lies to the east of Mason's Point. It derives its name from Dr. Samuel Shaw, one of the early physicians of Castleton, who owned the ad- joining property.

" Josh Billings's Pulpit " is a ronnd knob of slate ledge a few rods south of Shaw's Bay. It was so named by the Rutland County Historical Society in 1882, by the consent of Henry Shaw (Josh Billings), who is a grandson of Dr. Samuel Shaw.

Birch Point is so named from the white birch that grew upon it.

Bishop's Bay lies to the east of Birch Point. It received its name from Joseph Bishop, who moved on to the adjoining farm in 1843, and was instru- mental in developing boating on the lake. Beaver Meadow Brook empties into this bay. It receives its name from its source being in the large Beaver Meadow about one-half mile east.

Town Farm Bay is about one mile farther to the north. It receives its

NATURAL CHARACTERISTICS.

name from the town farm situated in the immediate vicinity. Sucker Creek empties into this bay. Diamond Ledge and the famous Slate Pencil Quarry are also in the immediate vicinity.

Goodwin's Bay sets into the land about one-half mile north of the town

farm. It is named after the owner of the adjoining land.

Diamond Point separates Goodwin's Bay from the main channel of the lake. It is named from the character of the point, which is an angular ledge of slate.

The Johnson Bridge spans the narrow channel of the lake between the Goodwin farm on the east and Johnson farm on the west. The marshy por- tion of the lake lies north of this bridge. Stannard's Cove is about one-half mile south of the the bridge on the west side of the lake. It received its name from the owner of the farm in the vicinity. Stannard's Point is south of the cove.

Watch Point is still farther south; it is a point of ledge about fifteen feet above the surface of the lake, and covered with a growth of small trees. It received its name from the custom of the early settlers concealing themselves in the evergreens on the point and watching for the deer when they came down to drink, or to cross the lake.

Johnson's Brook empties into the lake west of Watch Point. It rises among the hills to the northwest.

Eagle's Bay is situated between Watch Point and Cedar Mountain. It is about one mile in length, and is so called because of the eagles that have built their nests on the cliffs of Cedar Mountain from time immemorial, and have been observed to hover over this portion of the lake during the summer and autumn, watching the fish-hawk and robbing it of its prey.

Cedar Mountain rises abruptly about three hundred feet above the surface of the lake. It is one mass of slate rock and a conspicuous object from nearly all points on the lake. It has borne this name for over one hundred years, which it received from the abundance of cedar growing upon it. Slate is quar- ried at the foot of the mountain.

West Castleton Bay is situated between Cedar Mountain and Rocky Point. Here is the widest part of the lake. Williams's Brook and the outlet of Screw- driver Pond empty into this bay.

Rocky Point is south of West Castleton Bay. Its name indicates its phys- ical features. It is a rocky bend into the lake, though covered with a dense forest.

Cookville Bay extends from Rocky Point southward. The lake is about two miles wide at this place.

There are two islands in Lake Bombazine : Rabbit and Neshobe. Rabbit island is situated in the north end of Eagle's Bay, containing an area of about three acres. It is a ledge of slate rock, lightly covered with soil, on which is a

HISTORY OF RUTLAND COUNTY.

delightful grove of shrubbery and trees. It takes its name from the fact that rabbits collect on the island to feed upon its foliage in the winter season and get imprisoned there when the ice melts out of the lake in the spring. The island is long and narrow. It never was used for any other purpose than as a temporary resort for fishing and camping parties. It is very probable that it was a favorite resort for the Indians in prehistoric times, as a great variety of implements have been found upon the southern extremity.

Neshobe Island is situated about in the center of the lake, and contains an area of about ten acres. This, too, is a solid mass of slate rock, but its surface is covered with a deeper soil than Rabbit Island, and has a heavier growth of trees. It was named by the Rutland County Historical Society on July 4, 1881, after the Indian scout, Neshobe, mentioned in Thompson's novel The Green Mountain Boys.

Neshobe Island was first cleared about 1790, by Robert Mason, and planted to corn ; but was allowed to grow up to bushes until 1810 when it was again cleared by the Shaws, who then lived upon Mason's Point east of the Island. After three or four years it was again allowed to grow up to bushes, some of which still stand as ornamental shade trees to a summer resort. From the first settlement of the town of Castleton this island has been a favorite resort for fishing parties. In 1835 a rough board house thirteen feet square was erected on the southern extremity of the island by S. H. Langdon, who also put in cooking utensils, and had an ice-house built and filled every winter for sum- mer use, which was free to all parties who might desire to sojourn there. For several years these accommodations were amply sufficient to supply the wants of those who went to that enchanted island grove to revel in fish-chowders, St. Croix, and other favorite brands of choice liquors. This was the first boat- house on the lake. This building was burned by incendiary fire several years afterwards. In about 1840 a party of revelers who visited the island christened it " Chowder Island," when they served a chowder and had other festivities. But the name was mentioned only by the members of the party or their imme- diate friends, and it soon fell into disuse.

In 1877 John A. Leggett bought the island of Mr. S. H. Langdon who owned it and had kept it fitted many years for festive occasions, and the next year erected a two story hotel of wood. Mr. Leggett became insolvent and in 1880 the premises went into the possession of Jane Barker; since which time the island has been very much beautified and the buildings much improved. The place is now one of the most delightful summer resorts in New England. In 1884 the Rutland county historical society adopted for the island a coat-of- arms1 which is described as follows: Dexter chief, ermine ; sinister base, ar- gent. On ermine an annulet gules, in which is Neshobe Island vert, above waves azure. On argent is a deer purpure, at gaze, between a flock of wild

1 Proceedings of Rutland County Historical Society, Vol. 2, page 69.

NATURAL CHARACTERISTICS.

geese or, and a brace of arrow-heads gules. On a bend sinister sable, a fish or, natant between a pond-lily bud argent, and the American eagle or, perch- ing

Crest : Indian gules, paddling a birchen canoe or, between two drakes vert, natant, on waves azure.

Motto : "But Neshobe dieth never."

"BUT NESHOBE DIETH NEVER.

COAT-OF-ARMS OF NESHOBE ISI.AND.

Screw-driver Pond lies west of West Castleton and the village of West Cas- tleton. It was so called from its resemblance in shape to the screw-driver that was used with the flint lock guns. The name has been in use for this body of water more than one hundred years, as it appears in the land records of the town of Castleton as early as 1785. It is scarcely more than one-fourth of a mile in length and much less than that wide. It is surrounded by scraggy slate rock and forest groves, with clean shores, making it a lovely gem. It empties into Lake Bombazine. In about 1867 Mr. R. M. Copeland, referred to in con- nection with the re-naming of Lake Bombazine, gave to this little pond the name of Glen Lake. Both names, however, are in common use at the present time. There are several small ponds to the. northwest of Lake Bombazine, which act as feeders to the latter.

There are three villages on the shores of Lake Bombazine, viz : Hydeville, .Cookville and West Castleton. Hydeville is situated at the falls on the outlet of the lake. It was formerly called Castleton Mills. Cookville is situated on Cookville Bay or the west shore of the lake. It is a village built up by those

HISTORY OF RUTLAND COUNTY.

working in the slate quarries in that vicinity. It derives its name from Mr. Cook who was largely concerned in the development of the slate interest there. West Castleton is situated between Screw-driver Pond and Lake Bombazine. Its principal business is quarrying slate.

Up to 1878 there were no hotels along the shores of the lake to accommo- date tourists, who might wish to stop for any length of time. Travelers had to be entertained at the farm-houses bordering on the lake. There were seve- ral small buildings, called " boat-houses," along the shore of rude construc- tion, which served as shelters in case of storm. The owner kept several boats to let for fishing, sailing or rowing. Visitors to the lake were usually picnic parties for one day only, or family parties who furnished their own tent and provisions, and who came in from the surrounding country.

Since 1878 five hotels have been erected and several farm-houses have been enlarged and fitted up for the accommodation of travelers and summer boarders, since which time several hundred regular boarders stop every sum- mer at the various houses.

In 1878 a small steamer was put upon the lake, which makes regular trips from Hydeville through the lake and return, stopping at the various places of resort.

Lake Champlain should not be omitted in a sketch of the waters of Rut- iand county, as the southern portion skirts the western boundary of the county from Whitehall, forming the west line of the towns of Westhaven and Ben- son, a distance of sixteen miles to Orwell; the latter was, until twenty-five years ago, one of the towns of Rutland county. The lake is quite narrow at this point and resembles a river in appearance. Its width varies from one to three-fourths of a mile until it reaches Crown Point. It is one of the most in- teresting and attractive bodies of water in this country. An account of its discovery by Champlain has been given in a preliminary chapter. The beau- tiful scenery and the historic associations on the Vermont shore opposite Ti- conderoga make that point one of interest to visitors. Mount Independence, in Orwell, is a small elevation formerly included in the limits of Rutland county, opposite Fort Ticonderoga, upon which St. Clair erected fortifications which were connected with the fort by a floating bridge across the lake, twelve feet wide and more than a thousand feet in length. This bridge had twenty- two sunken piers to give it strength and durability, remains of which are occa- sionally found at low water.

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History of Rutland County, Vermont, with illustrations and biographical sketches of some of its prominent men and pioneers, Part 4

Author: Smith, H. P. (Henry Perry), 1839-1925. 1n; Rann, William S Publication date: 1886 Publisher: Syracuse, N.Y., D. Mason & co. Number of Pages: 1170

Author: Smith, H. P. (Henry Perry), 1839-1925. 1n; Rann, William S
Publication date: 1886
Publisher: Syracuse, N.Y., D. Mason & co.
Number of Pages: 1170