USA > Washington > Thurston County > Early history of Thurston County, Washington : together with biographies and reminiscences of those identified with pioneer days > Part 1
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THE NEW YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY
WITCH, LENOX AND TILDEN FOUNDATIONE
EDMUND SYLVESTER The Founder of Olympia
EARLY HISTORY
OF
Thurston County, Washington
TOGETHER WITH
BIOGRAPHIES AND REMINISCENCES OF THOSE IDENTIFIED WITH PIONEER DAYS
COMPILED AND EDITED BY MRS. GEORGE E. BLANKENSHIP ,
OLYMPIA, WASHINGTON 1914 J.F
ASTOR. LENOX AND "ILDEN FOUNDATION .. R 1923 L
Upon presenting this modest volume to the public the author desires to present a few facts regarding the aims and purposes of its publication.
As I am not myself a pioneer or, in the proper conception of the term, an early settler, it may be necessary to explain why I should intrude in a field more properly the work of others. As one who crossed the plains three times in an ox wagon, and whose parents were inured to the hardships of frontier life, I myself took a deep interest in this subject. Upon coming to Puget Sound I found the ranks of the pioneers decreasing rapidly. With the modesty characteristic of this race of hardy empire builders, they had not appreciated the value of their work and its import to their posterity. They did not appreciate the fact that those who were to reap where they had sown would be eager to learn of the vicissitudes and hardships endured by their antecedents in this new em- pire for which they had laid the foundation-so vast that Atlas must needs square his shoulders to bear the burdens of an- other world-and without leaving proper records of their heroie and self-denying lives, they have one by one gone to a well-deserved rest, leaving but few today to detail the re- miniscences here related. The compiler, then, encouraged in the work, by many who desire to see a task accomplished, which they themselves had no inclination to undertake, offers this volume, with a sincere hope that it may to some extent endure as a record of the lives of many who made history in Thurston County in the early days.
This publication makes no claim to literary merit, but aims to relate the simple annals of the pioneers' lives and vicissitudes in the language of the actors of that time.
The work has been at once interesting and educating. Thrown in contact with these survivors of the late '40's and
early . '50's one is astonished at the physical vigor and men- tal brilliancy encountered.
In one instance, in quest of facts regarding the early ex- periences of one old family, I was compelled to interview the maternal ancester, who complied cheerfully but said that in- asmuch as it was early Spring and she had her gardening to do she must ask her interviewer to call later in the evening when the day's tasks were done.
Another old lady, who furnished a fund of information, was found vigorously sewing upon her own dresses and much interested in her wardrobe, which, however, contained no nar- row and slit skirts.
These instances are presented not as exceptional in char- acter, but as typical of the people who left homes in the East to endure a perilous six months' trip over the trackless plains for a destination of which they knew nothing except that it promised a hard and perilous existence, with problematical results. They came, leaving their trail marked with mute evi- dences of severed family ties ; they saw, and before their vision unrolled a panorama of vast possibilities ; they conquered, first the savage Indian and then the none less wild forests and laid wide and deep the foundation for a State that must in time take rank with the first in this great Union.
Then it was, that the wild nature of the country having been subdued. transcontinental railroads built and the country became a fit habitation for man, the work of these hardy pioneers was done, their proud, erect forms were bent with age and hardship endured. The flashing eyes were dimmed the heads ripened for the grave, and they must reap slight re- ward for their self-denial and hardships. Even the United States Government was tardy in acknowledging their worth and bestowing a well-deserved pension upon these empire builders to aid them in their declining years. Indeed, the great majority had sought their reward in another world, when the Federal Government passed a law granting Indian war veterans pensions. Few there were then to receive it and they not long to be beneficiaries.
Let posterity, then, do its duty in granting the early settler his just due in respect and homage.
WAIL OF AN OLD SETTLER.
Some say this country's improving And boast of its commerce and trade. But measured by social enjoyment. I find it has really decayed.
In the pioneer days on the Sound When the people had little to wear. And subsisted on clams the year 'round. We'd hearty good fellowship here.
The thoughtful. industrious old settler Was so fond of obliging a friend. That if anyone wanted his tools He'd always quit working to lend.
At our gatherings for pastoral pleasure- Dance. pienic or social knockdown. One man was as good as another, No kind of distinction was shown.
And even the climate is changing. For only some ten years ago, Strawberries got ripe in December Whilst now it brings four feet of snow.
-Francis Henry.
istoriral Sketch
It is not necessary to the purposes of this brief historical sketch to detail the events connected with the early voyages of discovery to the Northwest, although they constituted the basis upon which Spain, Great Britain and the United States asserted claims to the Northwest Coast.
Russia claimed north of the 51st degree, with all adjacent islands ; Spain claimed to the 55th degree by right of discovery ; Great Britain asserted no exclusive right to particular portions of the coast, but maintained that the voyages of Drake. Cook. Meares and Vancouver to the coast; the overland voyages of Mackenzie and Thomson. followed by the formation of estab- lishments within the territory "conferred a right of joint oc- cupancy with other states, leaving the right of exclusive de minion in abeyance."
At the outset of the controversy the United States' claim was two-fold: First, in its own right, based upon the dis- covery of the Columbia river by Captain Gray; the explora- tion of that river by Lewis and Clark, followed by settlements by its citizens upon its banks. Upon the principal that the discovery of a river followed by acts of occupancy. secured d right to the territory such river drained, the United States asserted claim to the territory west of the Rocky Mountains lying between 42 and 51 degrees north. subject, however, to the rights of Spain of prior discoveries of islands and lands upon the coast. Second, as successor to France.
By the Louisiana purchase of 1803, the United States ac- quired the right of continuity of the territory west of the Mississippi river to the Pacific Ocean, of the breadth of that province, its north line being the boundary between the Hud- son's Bay territory and the French provinces in Canada. Ne- gotiations between the United States and Great Britain were commenced early in the century; the war of 1812 intervened ;
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THURSTON COUNTY
Astoria, captured during that war, had been restored. In 181s. the condition was slightly changed by the convention which permitted a joint occupancy of the territory by citizens and subjects of both nations, really a non-occupancy by the nations themselves. for they but agreed that they would not exclude the citizens of the other, nor gain any right or claim by virtue of the occupancy by their own citizens. On the 22nd of Feb- ruary, 1819, the United States, by the Florida treaty, acquired from Spain all that nation's rights to land upon the Pacific Coast north of 42nd degree north latitude. In 1824 and 1825 the United States and Great Britain had respectively con- cluded treaties with Russia by which 54 degrees 40 minutes north latitude was established as the south boundary of Rus- sian possessions on the Northwest Coast.
In 1827 the joint occupaney treaty was renewed, with the modification that either nation could abrogate it by giving twelve months' notice. The Oregon question continued to be agitated until June 15. 1846, the United States Senate advised President Polk to accept the treaty of limits then offered. By that treaty 49 degrees north was fixed as the northern bound- ary. But the treaty of 1846 proved but a temporization, not a settlement. It yielded to Great Britain all of Vancouver Island. but was vague as to water boundaries. The indistinct recog- nition of the possessory rights of the Hudson Bay and Puget Sound Agricultural Companies, almost wholly in Washington, left much for controversy. In 1859, war was imminent, grow- ing out of dispte as to sovereignty as to San Juan Island. This difficulty was temporized by a military joint occupancy A special treaty enabled the United States to secure by pur- chase the extinguishment of the possessory rights of the Hud- son Bay Company and Puget Sound Agricultural Company. Not until 1872, by the award of the German Emperor, was the water boundary adjusted and the Oregon controversy finally settled.
What was known as the provisional government of Oregon was organized in July, 1845, and all that country north of the Columbia River formed a single County known as Van- couver District. Sir James Douglas, M. T. Simmons and John Forrest were the first County Commissioners. Douglas was connected with the Hudson Bay Company and Simmons came
8
HISTORICAL SKETCH
into the country in the year 1844, with a company from Missouri.
Lewis County was organized in 1846, and embraced all the territory lying north of the Columbia river and west of the Cowlitz River. Dr. W. T. Tolmie, of Nisqually, was elected the first representative.
In April. 1845, at Washougal, Mrs. M. T. Simmons gave birth to the first white child born north and west of the Co- lumbia River. In March, 1846, Mrs. James McAllister gave birth to a son, the first born in the Puget Sound region. In the Summer of 1846. Mrs. Sidney S. Ford gave birth to a daughter. the first American girl born north and west of the Columbia River. The child after became Mrs. John Shelton
The first marriage recorded in the Colony was at "New Market, Puget Sound. at the house of Mr. Davis, on the 6th day of July, by Judge Simmons, Mr. Daniel F. Kinsey to Miss Ruth Brock of the former place."
In August of 1847, Jesse Ferguson. Col. Simmons. Frank Shaw. E. Sylvester. A. B. Rabbeson, Gabriel Jones. A. D. Carne- fix and John Kindred formed a company for the purpose of building a sawmill at New Market. named the Puget Sound Milling Company. The site was the northwest part of the Lower Falls. The mill was completed during the winter of that year.
On August 24, 1847, a trail was made between Smithfield (Olympia) and New Market (Tumwater).
In the Fall of 1847. there arrived in this section Thomas M. Chambers and his sons, David, Andrew, Thomas J. and McLain. also a Mr. Brail and Geo. Shaser.
The last election held in Lewis County under the Pro- visional Government was in 1848, when Levi Lathrop Smith was elected Repreesntative to the Oregon Provisional Legisla- ture and A. B. Rabbeson was elected Sheriff. Mr. Smith did not live to enter upon the duties of his office. While in a canoe on his way to New Market in August he was seized with an epileptic fit and drowned. This was the first recorded death of an American in this section.
Mr. Smith was a partner of Edmund Sylvester in joint claims owned by them. Under the partnership clause of the land laws of Oregon's Provisional Government the occupancy
9
THURSTON COUNTY
of claims by each party for the benefit of the firm was per- missable. Smith resided on the Smithfield claim and Sylvester occupied a prairie farm near the Sound. Thus, upon the death of Smith, Sylvester, as the survivor of the firm, became owner of the present site of the City of Olympia. He moved thereon and built the first hotel. It was 16x24. built of logs and con- tained two rooms.
Rev. Pascal Ricard and a small party of Oblat mission- aries in June, 1848, established the St. Joseph Mission, on the site of the present city park. on the east of Budd's Inlet. The Mission continued for several years. Hence the name by which the point has since been known, and which name is now given to Olympia's splendid playground-Priest Point Park. Another settlement was made about this time almost directly across the inlet from Priest Point by Samuel Han- cock. This claim later became the property of Conrad Schneider.
The Territorial Government of Oregon was established on August 14. 1848, and included all the Pacific possessions of the United States north to the 32nd parallel, this line being fixed by treaty between the United States and Great Britain.
The development of this section of the Oregon territory was greatly retarded soon after its organization by the gold discoveries made in California, which caused a stampede from the Northwest. and considerably reduced the male popula- tion, who preferred to try their fortunes in the gold fields rather than continue the pursuit of fortune along slower but more certain lines. Farms were abandoned; in many cases erops were not planted. or, if planted, were left neglected and unharvested.
After the arrival of Governor Lane to assume the duties of his office as first Governor of Oregon Territory, Judicial districts were proclaimed and Judges assigned in two, but the third Judicial district which constituted Lewis County. was left without an official clothed with authority to afford protection in all the territory north of the Columbia River.
The first American vessel owned by Washington Terri- tory residents hailed from Olympia, on Puget Sound, and was called the Orbit. She arrived at Olympia on New Years day,
10
HISTORICAL SKETCH
1850, and loaded with piles for San Francisco. Her owners were Messrs. Sylvester. Jackson, Moore, Shaw and Ebey.
The first Legislature under Oregon Territorial Government convened at Oregon City. July, 1849. Lewis County was then included in a Representative and Council district with Clat- sop County (now Oregon). and was represented by Samuel T. McKean. of Clatsop. as Councilman, and M. T. Simmons. as Representative. The session continued one hundred days.
Thomas W. Glascow settled on a claim at what is known as Ebey's Landing. Whidby Island, in 1848, and after some preliminary work returned to New Market (Tumwater) and induced A. D. Carnefix and A. B. Rabbeson to return to his new home with him. At the head of Hood's Canal, which they desired to explore, while on their way. they found Indians. many of whom had never beheld a white man. Though Carne- fix returned home at the head of the Sound, Rabbeson and Glascow continued their voyage and in July reached the new home of the latter.
About this time there was held in this vicinity a council of Puget Sound Indians, called together by the Chief of the Snoqualmies, Patkanim. The object of this meeting was to induce all the Sound Indians to combine and annihilate the white settlers. Patkanim was the leader in the effort to bring about hostilities. He urged that it was only a matter of a short time when the whites would outnumber the In- dians, and the latter would then be transported to a land where the sun never shone, and would there be left to die. One of the great arguments used by this crafty statesman and warrior, however, was that by conquering the whites the Indians would acquire a large amount of property.
This war-like spirit was strongly opposed by the Indians from the Upper Sound, who felt quite friendly to the whites. This pacific attitude of the Indians about the head of the Sound was due to the fact that the stronger tribes on the lower Sound had made war on the weaker ones and made slaves of those of the Indians that they took captives. The presence of the white in and about Smithfield and New Market had proved a protection to their Indian neighbors. More than this the whites had thus far proven themselves scrupu. lously honest in their dealings with the Indians and thus had
11
THURSTON COUNTY
the "King George" or "Boston Men" won their confidence.
This opposition to hostilities came near causing a fight on the council grounds. Rabbeson and Glascow, seeing that it would be unsafe to remain in the neighborhood left, the latter abandoning his claim.
In the Spring of 1849, a party of Snoqualmie Indians made an attack on the Hudson Bay Company's fort at Nis. qually, in which Leander C. Wallace was killed and two men, Lewis and Walker, were wounded.
From accounts derived from various sources the following appear to be the facts: A force of Snoqualmies visited the fort, ostensibly to settle a dispute with the Nisqually tribe. There appears to have been a force varying according to sev- eral accounts, from 100 to 150. Patkanim was within the fort conferring with Dr. Tolmie, the Agent, while the gates were closed against the other Indians. Wallace, Lewis and Walker, visitors at the fort, together with one, Chas. Wren, outside the fort, noticed hostile demonstrations on the part of the Indians, and apprehending danger, retreated towards the gates. Wren reached it and tried to enter, but was pre- vented from within. The discharge of a gun at this time precipitated an attack. It was fired into the air by a guard on the inside, preparatory to reloading, and was used as a pretext for the attack. A volley was then fired from the fort and the Indians retreated.
Wallace was the first white man killed by Indians on Puget Sound. The Indians were induced for a consideration of eighty blankets, to deliver up the murderers for trial. This method of dealing was strongly resented by Governor Lane. as it could be construed as putting a premium rather than a punishment on such outrages.
However, before he could prevent it the deal. which had been authorized by an Indian Agent for this district, had been consummated and six Snoqualmie Indians given up by the crafty Patkanim.
At a special term of court held in Ft. Steilacoom the six prisoners were indicted, tried, and two convicted, who were leaders in the attack. The remaining four were acquitted. A vast conclave of Indians were present at the execution, which occurred the day following conviction.
12
HISTORICAL SKETCH
This was the first United States court held North of the Columbia River. It was convened on the 1st day of October. the trial continued through the second day and upon the third day the two Indians were suspended. as mute object lessons to the Indians that the law must be respected. Some of the jurors who participated in this trial traveled two hundred miles from their homes to reach the court. The summary justice then dealt out could be well used as object lessons for more modern courts.
Chief Justice Bryant presided at this trial. The prosecu- tion was conducted by Judge Alonzo A. Skinner and the Court assigned David Stone, then Prosecuting Attorney for the Third Judicial District to defend the Indians.
Edmund Sylvester, who by the death of his partner, had become sole owner of the claim they had located at the head of Budd's Inlet, in 1850, laid off the claim as a town site and named it Olympia. The name suggests the idea that even in this remote region with rude environments, there were those conversant with the classics. The name was bestowed by Charles H. Smith, who together with Mr. Simmons, had that year established a store in the new settlement, at the corner of Main and Second Streets. The name was doubtless sug- gested by the beautiful views spread out before them at the head of the Sound, where to the North the Olympic Range was visible and to the East old Rainier reared his majestic head.
At this period, of course, the methods of living by the inhabitants were most primitive. Little in the way of house- hold necessities had reached the new settlement and luxuries were not missed by these hardy pioneers.
Only the necessaries of life and those fancy articles which appealed to the Indians were dealt in at the time. However. in 1852, George A. Barnes opened a general merchandise stor? at the West end of First Street, from which time business as- sumed more pretentious proportions. Later business houses were opened by A. J. Moses, J. G. Parker. Sam Coulter. L. Bettman, Goldman & Rosenblatt. and Louisson & Company. As Olympia was the only town on the Sound a customs house was established here in 1851.
Upon the reciept of news of the discovery of gold on Queen Charlotte's Island, this year, a schooner was chartered
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THURSTON COUNTY
by Samuel Williams. J. Colvig. William Billings, S. D. Howe. Charles Weed, S. S. Ford and three Sargent Brothers to go to the new fields. The schooner was wrecked 'on the East side of the island, plundered by the Indians and the gold- seekers taken prisoners. They were rescued by a revenue cutter and troops from Steilacoom and returned home after two months' absence.
The year 1852 found the settlers in fair condition with brighter prospects. for coal had been discovered and saw- mills had been established on the Sound, and these industries had caused a few shipments to be made to San Francisco, the beginning of a trade that was destined at a later date to grow to such dimensions.
The Sound country. which then constituted the Northern part of the Territory of Oregon, was isolated. Many of the towns and settlements were five hundred miles from the seat of government, and under such conditions the settlers here received little attention or consideration from the Ter- ritorial Legislature, though at this period it was considered that Lewis County, that section north of Cowlitz County, con- tained a little over three hundred inhabitants, of which 180 were citizens.
Pacific County was created in 1851 and in 1852 a new County was created to include the territory west of the Cas- rade Mountains and north of the Cowlitz divide. The new County was named Thurston, after Samuel R. Thurston, a highly cultured gentleman who had been elected to Congress by the factions opposed to the Hudson Bay Company. Thurs- ton died at sea April 9. 1851. while returning from the Na- tional Capitol His remains were buried at Acapulco, though they were afterward brought to Salem, Oregon, and buried, marked with a stone bearing this inscription: "Here rests Oregon's delegate, a man of genius and learning, a lawyer and statesman, his Christian virtues equalled by his wide philan- throphy. His public acts are his best euloguim."
In accordance with the act creating the new County of Thurston an election was held in June. 1852, at which the fol- lowing officers were elected: A. J. Simmons. Sheriff; A. M. Poe. County Clerk; D. R. Bigelow, Treasurer; R. S. Bailey,
14
HISTORICAL SKETCH
Assessor ; Ednund Sylvester, Coroner ; A. A. Denny, S. S. Ford and David Shelton, County Commissioners.
The records of the first session of the County Commis- sioners, shows the following business transacted :
The tax levy was fixed at 4 mills for County purposes, 115 mills for schools. 11% mills Territorial. and $1 poll tax.
T. F. McElroy and Geo. Barnes were appointed Justices of the Peace.
Road districts were established and Wm. Packwood was authorized to establish a ferry on the Nisqually River.
Precincts were established as follows: Skagit precinct. Whidby Island and all islands north. Port Townsend pre- cinct, territory north of Hood's Canal on the west side of the Sound. Duwamish precinct, east side of Sound north of Puyallup River and all south of Hood's Canal to the parallel of the north parallel of the Puyallup river on west side of Sound. Steilacoom precinct, territory north of Nisqually River to the Puyallup on the east side of the Sound and thence due west to mouth of Nisqually River to the parallel of the mouth of the Puyallup. Olympia precinct. territory south of Steilacoom precinct.
For school purposes: Olympia precinct contained dis tricts 1 and 2; Duwamish was designed as one district. Skagit precinct. one district ; Port Townsend precinct as one district.
The first term of the district Court was convened at Olym- pia this year and Elwood Evans, D. R. Bigelow. Quincy A. Brooks and S. H. Moses were admitted to practice.
Thornton F. McElroy and J. W. Wiley printed the first newspaper published in Thurston County. It was called the Columbian and the first issue appeared on September 11. 1852.
The regular district school opened this year and was taught by David L. Phillips.
The pioneer settlers now began to feel the absolute ne- cessity for a division of the territory and desired to be set aside from Oregon. Agitation along these lines resulted in a call for a convention to meet at Monticello November 25, 1852. Monticello was then a considerable settlement on the Cow- litz River.
Thurston County sent as delegates to this convention M.
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THURSTON COUNTY
T. Simmons. S. D. Ruddle, S. P. Moses, Adam Wylie, Q. A. Brooks and C. H. Hale.
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