USA > Washington > Thurston County > Early history of Thurston County, Washington : together with biographies and reminiscences of those identified with pioneer days > Part 18
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Mrs. Bigelow had many thrilling incidents to relate, which happened to her during the lonely rides between her school and parents' home.
In 1854 Miss White was married to the young lawyer. D. R. Bigelow, the bride and groom taking their wedding journey on horseback from the White home, to what has been known as the Bigelow addition for over half a century. The young couple avoided coming through Olympia, as Mr. Bigelow had learned that a number of his young men friends had planned to give the newly weds a rousing reception when they reached town. The ringleader of the jolly gang was Jim Hurd, Bigelow's most intimate man friend. He had procured the cannon which figures so prominently in the reminiscences of all the Pioneers of those days, and which was kept in readiness to repel Indian attacks. Jim stood on guard with this ancient cannon loaded to the danger limit. ready to give a rousing salute when Mr. Bigelow and his bride should appear. By slipping around by a trail which Bigelow had cut to his home they escaped the demonstration and the laugh was on the assembled crowd who waited till dark for the young couple to appear.
Mr. Bigelow purchased a quarter of the donation claim which he owned for many years. A donation claim was just a mile square. The other purchasers of the Caulkins claim were C. H. Hale and Miles Gallagher. The Young Bigelows first married home was, in Mrs. Bigelow's own words: "A two-room mansion, built of hand-split lumber with puncheon
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floors. A tiny cook stove, six plain chairs, a primitive bed- stead and table comprised our 'setting out'."
No bridge was there over what is now known as the Swantown fill, and the only way to reach the Bigelow home was by canoe or rowboat from Olympia. Later a pontoon foot- bridge was strung across the arm of the bay where the Olympia Theater now stands.
When the Indian war broke out the Bigelows came to town for safety, making their home in the block house for several weeks.
One evening, soon after their return to their home, Mrs. Bigelow was sitting alone in her kitchen, still nervous and afraid, when she heard a noise in the front room, and on look- ing around, was almost petrified with fear at the sight of a big, blanketed Indian's form which filled the doorway. It proved, however, to be Betty Edgar, a friendly squaw, married to a white man. She was looking for her halfbreed children who were late getting home. Mrs. Bigelow told of another scare she had endured from the Indians. One evening was seen a large number of Indian canoes coming up the bay. Each canoe was filled with braves in war dress. The men hastily assembled for protection and the women, who were too far away to seek refuge within the block house, prepared to flee to the woods for hiding.
Mrs. Bigelow had a young baby by this time, and in her excitement she snatched a carpetbag and began stowing in it such articles as she thought would be most needed. She laughingly said, "a heterogeneous lot went into that satchel- a loaf of bread, some of the baby's things, some of my own clothing, etc." But before long the men returned with the reassuring news that the Indians were on a peaceful errand. It proved to be Pat Kanim and his braves, coming to deliver up their guns in accordance with the terms of the peace treaty made between Governor Stevens and this Indian chief.
The Bigelows have always been prominently identified with the Methodist Church, and even when living on Chambers Prairie, Mrs. Bigelow would ride on horseback the twelve miles to Olympia to attend divine service.
When she was married to Mr. Bigelow, one of the town jokes was that the last white girl in the county was married
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the town wit getting in his work on the family name as he does to this day.
Eight children were born to Mr. and Mrs. Bigelow : Tirzah, now Mrs. Royal; Eva, now Mrs. Bonney; Ruth, now Mrs. Wright; Ellis, Duncan, Ray, George and Margaret. With the exception of Ellis, who died several years ago, and Mrs. Bonney, who lives in Tacoma, all the children live in Olympia and immediate vicinity.
The Bigelow name has always been honored and respected and in the stirring days of his prime D. R. Bigelow was one of the prominent men of the Northwest, and the sons and daughters have been a credit to their parents.
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GEORGE W. MILLS
There is none more to be honored among Thurston County pioneers than Mr. George W. Mills. who for the past fifty odd years has made his home in Tumwater, South Union, and later, in his declining years, in Olympia. Mr. Mills was a native of Illinois, having first seen the light of day in that State in 1833. Here he grew to young manhood, and when little more than a boy married Isabel Fleming, two years his junior. In Mr. Mills' own words. "We were but children when we started out in our married life." A few years after their marriage, Mr. and Mrs. Mills went to the then Territory of Missouri, but had hardly settled there before the Civil War was declared. The young man organized Company G, 11th Missouri cavalry, and was elected second lieutenant by his company. Mr. Mills was very modest about his military career. but from other sources comes the story of a dashing bravery when in active service which may well be a source of pride to his sons and daughters. The principal engagement he took part in was the Kirksville charge. In this battle there were many killed and wounded, and while Mr. Mills was recounting his story of the engagement, something of the fire and spirit of his youthful days flamed in his eyes and animated his form.
Owing to illness Mr. Mills was obliged to resign from the company before the completion of the war. Among the clearest recollections Mr. Mills was enabled to relate, was listening to one of the now historic debates between Abraham Lincoln and Stephen A. Douglass. His word picture of the appearance of these famous characters was clearcut and vivid. Mr. Mills had a personal acquaintance with Lincoln. and loved to tell about what an "ugly, raw-boned figure of a man the rail-splitter really was," although with a certain majesty and dignity which impressed the young man even in those days.
As the war had brought bitter hard times to Missouri and
GEORGE W. MILLS AND WIFE
THE NEW YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY
ARTER, LENOX AND TILDEN FOUNDATIONE
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the cry of gold to be had for the picking up came from Cali- fornia, the young couple decided to go to the gold fields and gather their share. There were several children by this time. but they were all hardy and strong, and their parents full of hope and confidence. Fitting up a light spring wagon for the family to ride in and with an ox team to haul the provisions and the very few household furnishings that were deemed absolutely necessary, the start was made for the land of promise.
When the upper crossing on the Platte River, on the old Oregon Trail, was reached. they were halted by a company of soldiers stationed there to protect the emigrants from the Indians, who were on the warpath, and had taken several trains of emigrants along the road, killing the people and burning the wagons. As small trains of wagons rolled up they were detained by the military officers until a sufficient number should have congregated to form a strong enough company to resist an ordinary attack from the bands of In- dians who roved at will over the plains. As the emigrants arrived, "Oregon, Oregon," was the cry. No one except the Mills family seemed to want to go to California. Mr. Mills. after consulting the officers of the company. was advised to join these Oregon-bound emigrants and go with them into that country. It was pointed out to him that all places in the West were about alike in advantages. but if. after reach- ing Oregon, he did not wish to remain there. he could then proceed on down to California. There seemed to be no alter- native, so the young couple joined the Oregon-ward march. By this time enough emigrants had arrived at the crossing to make a train of sixty wagons and three buggies. Owing to Mr. Mills' military training and his commanding person- ality, he was unanimously elected captain of the train, or mili- tary director. Regular drills were held to teach the men how to corrall the wagons and prepare to withstand an attack. should the Indians make their appearance. Five and a half weary months of travelling followed, with the usual story of bitter hardships endured with uncomplaining fortitude by these sturdy men and women. Many and harrowing were the ex- perienees undergone, and the fear of Indian assault was ever present. This fear was founded upon several terrible re-
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minders of the possible fate of the adventurers. Two or three times the train was halted to give the men time to inter the remains of victims of the Indians' wanton massacre.
One day, Mr. Mills related, they came upon what had evidently been the scene of a battle. The remains of a burned wagon was in the road, with what had been its contents scattered over the plain. A few feet from the side of the road was a hastily-formed mound of loose dirt and sod. Be- tween two clods of earth, which were not closely packed down. streamed the long tresses of a woman's hair. The locks were of a beautiful brown color and of great abundance. From the size and shape of the mound it was evident that there were two forms under the earth, and the most pathetic sight of all, on top of the rude grave, curled up as though asleep, was the form of a tiny spaniel. There was no inscription or sign of any kind to tell who were here buried, but the gen- eral conjecture was that here were the remains of a husband and wife, who had been murdered by the Indians, their com- panions only taking time to throw a little earth over their forms before fleeing for their own lives. The little dog was probably the pet of the dead, and instinctively knew that his friends were sleeping there, so had stayed by them until death came from starvation.
When Oregon was finally reached and the emigrant train disbanded, the Mills family settled in Yamhill County, where Mr. Mills went to farming. Here, the following winter, was born their son, George G. Mills.
The next spring, encouraged by letters from a former neighbor, who had come to Puget Sound the previous year, they decided to come on to this county. Packing the wife and children into a wagon drawn by a span of mules, they started for the Sound, arriving in 1865.
When they reached Tumwater and Mrs. Mills beheld the salt water before her, with the great forest on all sides, she said : "Well, Pa, this is the jumping off place. We haven't the money to go back; we can go no further, so we've just got to stay here." And stay they did.
For the first three and a half years in the new home Mr. Mills was head sawyer at Ward's mill, at the upper Tumwater
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Falls. At about this time Jesse T., the youngest child of Mr. and Mrs. Mills, was born.
A few years later the couple bought forty aeres of land at South Union, six miles from Tumwater. Mr. Mills said this land was only bought after earnest consideration, for they well knew that the country was developing so rapidly that if they went further back in the wilderness and took up a home- stead of good soil, such as was to be had for the asking at that time, they would in the long run be better off financially, but Mrs. Mills plead: "Let's give the children a chance. We owe it to them not to get away from schooling advan- tages." Even then there was a fairly good rustic school at South Union, and as the children, one by one, acquired the knowledge taught there, they were sent into Olympia to get further educational advantages. Mary. George and Jesse were graduates of the Olympia Collegiate Institute.
When the land at South Union was first bought it was covered with the forest primeval. Mr. Mills' first work was to cut down big trees enough to clear a building site for his house. In course of time, and through the heart-breaking labor which the development of wild forest land calls for, the farm was gradually cleared, a good nine-room house erected, and the Mills place at South Union became one of the most valu able farms in the county.
In the year 1882 Mr. Mills was made industrial instructor at the Indian school at Chehalis, teaching the Indian boys the rudiments of several trades. Mrs. Mills accompanied her husband with such of her children as were not attending school in Olympia. Among the pupils in the school was Jesse Mills, a ring-leader in all the sports, and undoubtedly much of the mischief. perpetrated by the dusky lads. As he was constantly associated with the Indians, and they were prac- tically his only playmates, the youngster readily acquired a proficient knowledge of not only in the Chinook jargon, but the Indian language as well. Consequently, when an Indian parent would come to enquire regarding the progress and welfare of their offspring, Jesse was frequently called in as interpreter.
At the end of four and a half years, the Mills family re- turned to their farm at South Union, but had only been there
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a few weeks. when the Indian agent plead with Mr. Mills to take charge of the Indian school at Skykomish. This ser- vice lasted eighteen months, when Mr. Mills was relieved and again took up his residence on the farm.
At the time of Mr. Mills' arrival in Tumwater. that set- tlement was more of a town than Olympia, and there was only a muddy trail connecting the two towns. From where Masonic Temple now stands, in Olympia, to Tumwater Falls. there was the untouched forest, and on about the spot where the George Israel home is now built was an Indian village the inmates of which hunted big game in the immediate neigh- borhood.
Mr. Mills tells that many a night after his day's work in the saw mill, he and Mrs. Mills would take a lantern and flounder along the trail to Olympia, to trade out his pay checks at the Percival store. There was very little ready money in circulation and the cost of all commodities was very high. flour selling for $2 a sack of forty-nine pounds. or $50 a barrel, with sugar, butter, coffee, bacon and other necessaries in proportion. As everything was brought around the Horn in sailing vessels, these prices were probably not excessive, all things considered.
"Well. we had jolly times in those days." said Mr. Mills. "We were like one family. If one was in trouble it was the concern of all. We shared in each others' joys and sympa- thized in each others' sorrows.
"Our principal amusements were dancing in the winter and picnics in the summer. Then a dance was a dance. Be- ginning early in the evening and lasting all night. till morn- ing brought light enough to see the trails leading to our homes. And those good old dances-Old Dan Tucker, basket quadrille, Cheater's swing, polkas, mazurkas. firemens' quad- rille-where are they now? I never heard the word tango nor saw a meditation waltz in my day. but think we had just as much fun at our gatherings as they do now-maybe more.
"Of all the men with whom I was associated in a business way when I first came to the country. I can think of but five who are still living-Robert Frost, John Murphy. Gus Rosen- thal. Tom Prather and P. D. Moore."
Mr. Mills tells with reminiscent glee of one of the pranks
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of his younger days. In 1868 political sentiment between the Whig party and the Democratic party was very decided, and party spirit very bitter. The election of a Territorial Delegate 10 Congress was imminent. Alvin Flanders of Vancouver- Whig-was running against Francis Clark-Democrat-of Ta- coma. When the news of Flanders' election reached us, Tum- water went wild. Speedily congregating, the Republicans se- cured a number of disused saws from the mill. By striking these with hammers and iron bars a noise horrible enough to wake the dead resulted. Tin cans and horse fiddles added their notes to the horrid din. After parading through the blocks of Tumwater streets, it was then for Olympia. Down by Crosby's mill went the jolly boys, along the trail to the bluff above Tum- water. Here was peacefully grazing the Biles' family cow. Her big brass bell was soon added to the orchestra's force.
When the noisy procession was about half way to Olympia they met two foppishly dressed young young men riding on livery horses. They were stopped and their political convic- tions demanded. As they did not reply, but seemed frightened at the demonstrations, they were allowed to proceed on their way after the enthusiasts had given them three rousing groans and some mighty uncomplimentary remarks as a parting.
When Olympia was reached the procession was swelled by the faithful of that burg. As they paraded up and down the streets a stop was made before every place of business as well as every dwelling house. In those days there was no side step- ping. or hiding one's political affiliations, and every man had to stand squarely on his party's platform. Consequently it was pretty well known just how each and every man had voted. So as the parade passed the house of one of the faithful a stop would be called and three rousing cheers given for the Whig. but when a Democrats' habitat was reached the inmates were greeted with three fearful groans.
When the town had been properly greeted the wild gang started back for Tumwater. They stopped on the corner of what is now Fifteenth and Main Streets to inform Colonel Cock of the result of the election.
Cock had just returned from a trip east of the mountains. where he had been buying cattle. He had not alighted from his horse when the boys came up. He was a very excitable man,
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and when it was told him that the Whigs had won out he simply went wild. Jumping from his horse in the middle of the road he threw his hat down and stamped it into the mud.
Just as his frenzy was at its height. the same couple of fops who had been met a few hours previously came riding up. One of them sprang from the horse and rushed into Cock's arms. A closer inspection showed the astonished men that the sup- posed dudes were Mrs. Cock and Mrs. Rice Tilley. The two young women had thought it would be a lark to dress up in men's clothes and ride out to meet Mr. Cock. They took the wrong road, however, and missed him, and were returning home. Explanations and apologies were in order.
"My wife died in 1907," proceeded Mr. Mills, "after we had lived together 54 years. and if ever a man lost a faithful. loving companion I did when she was laid away. She was a good wife and devoted mother. I miss her every day of my life and one of my few pleasures is going to her last resting place and looking at the spot I shall occupy by her side. I have finished my work and only wait the last summons. I am proud of my children. none of whom have ever caused me humiliation or shame. They are all honorable men and women, respected in the community where they reside."
The children born to Mr. and Mrs. Mills were: Sarah. afterwards Mrs. Sales, of Seattle ; Kate, Mrs. Reynolds of Olym- pia ; James and John. still of Tumwater; Mary, Mrs. Hunting- ton. of The Dalles, Oregon; Lora, afterwards Mrs. Greene of this city; Fannie, Mrs. Meyers, now living in Oakville; and George and Jesse, of Olympia. Mrs. Reynolds and Mrs. Greene are no longer living.
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W. O. THOMPSON
One of the most remarkable examples of the sturdy Pioneer, is W. O. Thompson, who, at the ripe age of 90, still steps forth briskly, with eyes bright and quick and with a keen intelligence relates his experiences in crossing the Oregon Trail in 1850 and his adventures after reaching Thurston County, with a clearness and conciseness which was a delight. In "Black Lake" Thompson's own words:
"I was born in Blairsville, Pennsylvania, in 1824, being of Scotch descent on my father's side. My mother belonged to the aristocratie family-the Culbertsons. My people were possessed of considerable of this world's means and sent me to a private school taught by a Catholic priest, who was refused orders on account of dissipated habits. One day he became angry with me, and struck me, first on one side of my head and then the other, with the result I have had im- paired hearing ever since. Later I was sent to the school taught by a Scotch Presbyterian minister, who was in the habit of maintaining discipline by the use of a cat-o-nine-tails.
"Soon after this the first public, or state school, was started, presided over by a college-bred teacher, and my edu- cation progressed satisfactorily.
"When I was ten years old, I won a prize for my penman- ship, much to my delight. Having reached the age of fourteen and my family having met financial reverses, I decided to run away from home and find employment on a farm. Later I worked my way to Cincinnati, where I found work in a sash and blind factory. Here I boarded with a Mr. T. B. Mason, a musician, who urged me to allow him to train my voice so I could sing with the church choir. I had always loved music, although my sister always made fun of my voice and would not allow me to join in the music at home. Mr. Mason tested my voice and found it a baritone, so I was not allowed to sing in the choir.
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"At this time I also greatly enjoyed dancing.
"When about 24 years of age I found myself a chronic invalid. with weak lungs. dyspepsia and rheumatism. A doctor told me to try roughing it as the only possible means of restoring my health. I secured work at once as a deck hand on a Mississippi River boat and found my health began to improve.
"The next few years were full of wandering. even thought of enlisting to go to the Mexican war, but a visit to a camp of volunteers so disgusted me that I abandoned the intention.
"In 1850 I heard of a Mr. E. S. Bonsell, who was about to start West over the Oregon Trail, and wanted a driver for one of his trains, which position I secured.
"Our train consisted of nine wagons and we started across the prairies from Fort Leavenworth, on the Caw River. early in the Spring. We struggled through deep woods, waded brooks, ferried our wagons over rivers. whenever we were for- tunate enough to find boats, making the cattle swim.
"We had just crossed the little Blue River and were travelling over the bluffs down into the Platte valley, when suddenly our train ran into a band of about 150 Indians, painted faces, scanty clothing, and carrying Mexican spears. I made frantic signs for them to separate and let our train pass through, which they did, but soon surrounded our little band. I at once planned for a council to be held under a big tree, close at hand, they to send their chief. and we. our leader. While arranging this I had the drivers form the wagons in a square, with the tongues outside. Into the square thus formed, we put the women and children.
"In the excitement, one of the wagons was left out of this square and the Indians began crowding around it. Elbowing my way through, I found that Miss Nancy Morton. a beautiful young girl of our party, was the object of great admiration on the part of the chief and his braves. The chief made signs that he wanted to buy Nancy for his wife, and that if we would not sell her he would take her by force. I walked up to the girl, placed my hand on her shoulder and made signs that she belonged to me. Telling her to follow me, we plunged into our extemporized fort. I tell you. Nancy was a badly frightened girl.
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"At the council the chief told us they were friendly to the white but were out after their enemies. the Pawnees. All they wanted from us was meat. Unele Johnnie had a beef killed, which in a short time they had eaten raw. I assured them that many Boston men were coming and a party had ridden upon a bluff to look back over the road. Fortunately, there was a dust arising from another train of emigrants, so they rode on, but not before another one of our cows had been killed by one of the war party.
"The plan of work which was invariably carried on by the emigrants each day was: In the early morning the sentinel on duty roused the camp, and very soon every tent and wagon is pouring forth its night tenants, and slowly kindling smokes begin to rise and float away in the morning air. The men start out to round up the cattle and soon the well-trained cattle move toward the camp. By seven o'clock, breakfast must be eaten, the wagon loaded and the teams yoked, all realizing that if they are not ready they will be obliged to fall behind into the dusty rear for the day. One man goes ahead to select a nooning place, where grass and water must be found, if possible. The teams are not unyoked at noon but simply turned loose from the wagon,and then the noon meal is eaten. At one o'clock the march is resumed till night, when again everyone is busy building fires, preparing supper. pitch- ing tents and making ready for the night. The watches begin at eight o'clock and end at four o'clock.
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