USA > Washington > Thurston County > Early history of Thurston County, Washington : together with biographies and reminiscences of those identified with pioneer days > Part 2
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The result of this convention was that Congress was mem- prialized to create the Territory of Columbia out of that por- tion of Oregon lying north and west of the Columbia River. There was no opposition on the part of the people of Oregon to this separation, and the result was that the new territory was created by an Aet signed by the President on March 3, 1853. Congress, however, overruled the people in the matter of a name for the new territory, and inasmuch as there was already a District of Columbia, it was decided to honor the Father of His Country-hence the Territory of Washington.
A school house was erected in the Fall of 1852 on the now northwest corner of Sixth and Franklin Streets, Olympia. The structure was a frail one and succumbed under a heavy fall of snow during the winter. It was rebuilt later.
The tide of immigration now set in quite strong, and de mand for lumber increasing, a mill was built at New Market by Ira Ward, N. Barnes and S. Hays, with a daily output of 3,000 feet per day.
In January, 1853, before the new Territorial Government became effective. the Oregon Territorial Legislature created the Counties of Pierce. King. Island and Jefferson. all out of Thurston County, leaving the latter to include only the pres. ent Counties of Thurston. Chehalis and Mason.
President Pierce, soon after his inauguration, appointed Isaac I. Stevens as Governor of the new Territory; Chas. H. Mason, Secretary; J. S. Clendennin. Attorney; J. Patton An- derson, Marshal; Edward Lander, Chief Justice; Victor Mon- roe and O. B. McFadden, Associate Justices.
Marshal Anderson's first official act was to cause a cen sus to be taken, and a population of 3,965 was reported, of which 1682 were voters.
Transportation and mail facilities in 1853 were very un- satisfactory for the residents of the Sound region. At this time connection was made with Portland by means of a stage which left Olympia every Tuesday, connecting with boats on the Columbia. Later. however. B. F. Yantis and A. B. Rah- beson formed a partnership for the purpose of running a
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stage line, and advertised to put their passengers through in twelve hours.
In 1853 the resources of the County began to be devel- oped. A little coal was mined. a bed of natural oysters was discovered on Budd's Inlet, and hewed timber was quoted at 16 to 18 cents per cubic foot, shingles $4.50 to $5.00 per thous- and and cordwood $4.00 per cord.
The necessity for an emigrant route over the Cascades led to a public meeting being held in Thurston County and a committee appointed to view out a route. and a road through the Natchez pass was the result, which was a means of greatly stimulating emigration.
In the Summer of 1853, a census taken for Thurston County showed a population of 996. The first grand and petit jurors were drawn at this time.
Governor Stevens reached Olympia on November 25. 1853. five months and nineteen days from St. Paul. Secretary Charles H. Mason had already arrived.
Among those ready to welcome the new Governor to the Sound were Colonel William Cock. Shirley Ensign, D. R. Bige- low. Geo. A. Barnes. H. A. Goldsborough, Jno. M. Swan. C. H. Hale. Judge B. F. Yantis. Judge Gilmore Hays, Jno. G. Parker, Quincy A. Brooks. Dr. G. K. Willard, Col. M. T. Sim- mons. Capt. Clanrick Crosby. Ira Ward, James Biles. Joseph Cushman, S. W. Percival. Edwin Marsh. R. M. Walker, Levi and James Offut. J. C. Head. W. Dobbins. Isaac Hawk, Rev. Geo. F. Whitworth, Jared S. Hurd. H. R. Woodward, B. F. Brown, and M. Hurd.
The arrival of the new Governor was the most momentous event that had occurred in the history of Olympia. and on his appearance in the garb of a hardy frontiersman he was given a hearty welcome and reception at the Washington Hotel (now standing) at the corner of Main and Second Streets. and when, a little later Governor Stevens delivered a lecture. giving the results of his explorations for a Northern trans- continental route. the enthusiasm of the pioneers was boundless.
Immediately upon arrival of the Governor. he issued a proclamation establishing election districts, and appointing January 30. 1854, as the time for holding an election for dele-
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gate to Congress, and members of the Legislature, which was to meet in Olympia February 28th.
The Governor appointed M. T. Simmons Indian Agent for the Puget Sound Indians and sent him to visit the various tribes, and bear a message of friendship from the White Father.
The first political campaign in Thurston County was an exciting one, in which three parties participated, the Demo- cratic, Whig and Union. The Legislative nominees on the re- spective tickets were as follows:
Democratic-For Councilman, D. R. Bigelow and S. D. Ruddell; for Representatives, L. D. Durgin, George Gallaher, David Shelton and A. J. Chambers.
Union-For Councilman, D. R. Bigelow and B. F. Yan- tis; for Representatives, A. W. Moore, F. W. Glascow, S. S. Ford, and James II. Roundtree.
Whig-For Councilman, B. F. Yantis and E. J. Allen ; for Representatives, Ira Ward, C. H. Hale, J. L. Brown, Galla- tin Hartsock.
After a short but hard-fought campaign the following were elected: Couneilmen, B. F. Yantis and D. R. Bigelow ; Representatives, L. D. Durgin, David Shelton, Ira Ward, and C. H. Hale.
Judge Columbus Lancaster was elected first Delegate to Congress.
Upon convening of the Legislature in a small two-story building on Main Street, between Second and Third, the Gov- ernor delivered an able message, in which he predicted a bril- liant future for the new territory, much of which has already been realized; urged County and school organization and the organization of a militia. HIe dwelt on the importance of extinguishing the Indian titles and the claims of the Hudson Bay and Puget Sound Agricultural Companies and settling the boundary line of the British side, and advised the Leg- islature to memorialize Congress for the appointment of a Surveyor-General to facilitate the survey of the lands, and advocated many other salutary measures which were promptly adopted by the Legislature except the recommendation re- garding a militia. This proved a bad oversight as later de-
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velopments showed, when two years later the Indians became hostile.
Governor Stevens purchased Block 84, Olympia, for his fu- ture home, and a tract of ten acres in what is now known as Maple Park. He also contracted for the purchase of the north half of the Walker donation claim, between Olympia and Tumwater.
Governor Stevens. amid his other duties, worked with zeal on the reports of his exploration for the Northern trans- continental route and was assisted by Capt. McClellan (after- wards Gen. Geo. B. McClellan) and others. Governor Stevens' offices were in two one-story buildings on the West side of Main Street, between Second and Third Streets.
The Governor reported to Secretary of War Jefferson C. Davis on his exploration and later received peremptory orders to bring his operations along these lines to a close, which he did, but not without urging their continuance at a later day. The opposition with which Governor Stevens met in this regard was doubtless due to the eagerness of the future President of the Southern Confederacy for a Southern trans- continental route.
The acts of the first Legislature affecting Thurston County was that of creating Chehalis County out of the southwest part of the former and Sawamish out of the northwest sec- tion, thus materially reducing the area of Thurston. The name of the latter County was afterward changed to Mason, after the first Secretary of the Territory.
Also a road was ordered located between Olympia and Shoalwater Bay; from Cathlamet to S. S. Ford's in Thurston County; Olympia to the mouth of the Columbia River, and Olympia to Monticello.
The Legislature also appointed County officers for the various Counties, and the following were assigned for Thurs- ton County: County Commissioners, S. S. Ford, David J. Chambers and James McAllister; Auditor, U. E. Hicks; Sher- iff, Frank Kennedy; Assessor, Whitfield Kertley; Probate Judge, Stephen D. Ruddle; County Treasurer, D. R. Bigelow ; School Superintendent, Elwood Evans; William Plumb, Nathan Eaton and Joseph Broshears, Justices of the Peace.
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Stephen Ruddle declining the Probate Judgeship, Joseph Cushman was appointed in his place.
The County Commissioners adopted measures protecting the school interests in the matter of public lands; fixed the license fee for retailing liquor at $100 for six months, and bowling alleys at $25 per annum, and accepted a report from Thos. J. Chambers, who had been appointed to mark out a quarter section of land for the benefit of a County seat to be the most valuable unclaimed land within the limits of the County. Mr. Chambers reported in favor of section 19, town- ship 18, range 1 West.
The tax rolls for 1854 showed a valuation of $418,140 and the rate of taxation was fixed at 3 mills.
The Commissioners this year authorized the construction of a bridge across the Bay on the Eastside at a cost of $500, and one across the Skookumchuck, for which they appropriated $1,000. The former bridge was built at a cost of $1,500, $1.000 being subscribed for that purpose.
Up to this time no proper provision had been made for County offices and records were kept in a very temporary manner. The Commissioners now authorized a contract for a Court House to cost not to exceed $1,200 and ordered the Auditor to procure suitable books for the records.
At the election in 1854 three tickets were in the field, Free Soil. Democratic and Whig.
There were no local issues involved and the battle was fought along the lines agitated in the East. The straight Democratie County ticket was elected, as follows:
Representatives, Wm. Cock, B. L. Henness, Stephen Guth- rie, Wm. P. Wells; County Commissioners, Levi Shelton, S. S. Ford, John Low; Probate Judge, Joseph Cushman; School Superintendent, D. R. Bigelow; Auditor, U. E. Hicks; Treas- urer, Wm. Rutledge; Sheriff, A. B. Rabbeson; Assessor, Wm. Packwood; Coroner, A. J. Baldwin. J. Patton Anderson, who had come to the Territory as United States Marshal, was elected as Delegate to Congress.
During this period Governor Stevens returned East, spend- ing much of his time at the National Capitol, in the interests of his Territory. Much of the legislation secured for Wash- ington was due to his efforts, which included needed amend-
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ments to the land laws and the creation of the offce of Sur- veyor General, and making appropriations for surveys and mail service.
Governor Stevens and his family left New York City for the Territory September 20, 1854, and arrived at their new home in December. A pen picture of the impression gained by the family, upon their arrival, as described by General Stevens. showed conditions as they then prevailed :
"It was a dreary dark December day. It had rained considerably. The road from Tumwater to Olympia was ankle deep in mud and thrided a dense forest with a narrow track. With expectations raised at the idea of seeing the Capital and chief town of the Territory, the weary travelers toiled up a small hill in the edge of the timber, reached the summit and eagerly looked to see the new metropolis. Their hearts sank with bitter disappointment as they surveyed the dismal and forlorn scene before them. A low, flat neck of land. running into the bay, down it stretched the narrow, muddy track, winding among the stumps, which stood thickly on either side twenty small wooden houses bordered the road, while back of them on the left and next the shore were a number of Indian lodges. with canoes drawn up on the beach, and Indians and dogs lounging about." The little hill mentioned is where the Masonic Temple now stands, opposite the new Federal building. The site of the Indian camp is now Columbia Street, between Third and Fourth. There were only one or two buildings above, or south of Sixth Street. The public square was a tangle of fallen timber. Main street terminated in Giddings' wharf, which was left high and dry at low tides."
It is not a matter of surprise that the Governor's family were appalled at the appearance of their future home, accen- tuated as it was by the hardships of the trip from the East, the latter part of which is thus described :
"* * * The party took canoes (at a point named Rainier), manned by Indians. crossed the Columbia and paddled a few miles up the Cowlitz to Monticello, where they spent the night. At daylight the next morning the Governor and family em- barked in one canoe, while the trunks and baggage followed in another, and pushed up stream against a swift current. There were in the canoe the Governor, his wife and four
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children, the nurse and a crew of four Indians, two on each end. It was a dark, drizzling day, with frequent showers. The passengers sat upon the bottom of the canoe upon plenty of Indian mats and well wrapped in blankets, and, except for the strained and irksome position were fairly comfortable. The Indians, urged by promises of extra pay, paddled vigor- ously. At the rapids (and it seemed that nearly all the stream was in rapids) they laid aside their paddles, and, standing up, forced the canoe ahead with poles, which they wielded with great skill and vigor. * It was dark when they reached Cowlitz Landing, thirty miles from Monticello."
Mrs. Stevens continues the narrative, here quoted, as a vivid description of the methods of travel in this section at that time :
* We walked ankle deep in mud to a small log house, where we had a good meal. Here we found a number of rough, dirty-looking men, with pantaloons tueked inside their boots, and so much hair upon their heads and faces that they all looked alike. After tea we were shown a room to sleep in, full of beds, which were for the women. I was so worn out with the novel way of traveling, that I laid down on a narrow strip of bed, not undressed, all my family along- side on the same bed. The Governor sat on a stool near by. and, strange to say. slept sound through the long, dismal night. IIe had been shown his bed up through a hole on top of the shanty. He said one look was sufficient. Men were strewn as thick as possible on the floor in their blankets. The steam generated from their wet clothes, boots and blankets was stifling. One small hole eut through the roof was the only ventilation. As soon as breakfast was over the next morn- ing, we mounted a wagon without springs and proceeded on our journey. There surely were no worse roads in the world than this. The horses went down deep into the mud every step; the wheels sank to the hub, and often had to be pried out. We forded rivers, the water coming above our ankles in the wagon. Many big, deep holes they would jump over, making the horses run quiek, when the wagon would jump across, shaking us up fearfully. In one of these holes the horses fell down, and we stuck fast in the mud. We were taken from the wagon by men of our party, plunging up to
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their knees in mud, and carrying us out by sheer force of their strength. After seating us upon a fallen log. the horses were, with difficulty, extricated from the mud. After an- other long day's tiresome travel we stopped at a log house for the night."
The Governor's party proceeded the following day through a drizzling rain, with the roads all but impassible. At Saun- ders Bottom, where the Town of Chehalis now stands, the mud was knee deep for two miles. This day the party made 25 miles. The travelers reached Olympia the next day, after 30 miles' travel, upon a somewhat better road. Such were the hardships endured by those looking for new homes in the far Northwest, but harder vet were the experiences of those reaching here by way of the Natchez Pass, as many were com- ing that way.
An idea of the cost of living during this period, may be gleaned from the following market report, published in the only paper printed in the Territory at that time :
Potatoes. per bushel, $3; flour. $10 per 100 pounds ; pork, 20 cents; butter. $1 per pound ; onions, $4 ber bushel ; eggs, $1 a dozen; beets, $3.50 per bushel; sugar, 1212 cents : coffee, 18 cents ; tea. $1; molasses, 75 cents ; salmon, 10 cents. Sawed lumber for $20 per thousand; cedar, $30; shingles, $4.50 ; piles, per foot, 5 to 8 cents; square timber, per foot, 12 to 15 cents.
In December, 1854, W. B. Goodell established a stage line between Olympia and Cowlitz via Grand Mound, leaving Olympia on Tuesdays and Fridays of each week. At Cowlitz, near the present site of Toledo, it made connections with boats for Monticello and Portland. Olympia to Grand Mound, $3.50; to Cowlitz, $10.00.
W. W. Miller built a saw mill the latter part of 1854 on the East side of Budd's Inlet, a short distance below the town, and the old Masonic hall was built on the site of the more pretentious Temple of today. In this old building the Legislative session of 1855 was held. Edward Giddings built a wharf, 300 feet long, at the foot of Main Street, which was used for many years. Later it was extended to deep water and was used until the Government deepened the channel for a nearer approach to the town.
In 1855, Samuel Coulter, who had been appointed As-
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sessor, reported the valuation of taxable property at $396,825, and a levy of 4 mills was made. The County debt, at the same time amounted to $4,388.29.
Among other duties devolving upon the Legislature of 1855 was that of permanently locating the seat of Govern- ment. Hon. Arthur A. Denny was a member of the House from King County, and spoke as follows upon the subject :
"Mr. Speaker :- I propose to do now what I have not done before : I propose to say now what I have not heretofore said to anyone (if my memory serves me) relative to my views upon this location question. I now for the first time announce my purpose to vote for the location of the territorial capital at or near Olympia; and for my vote upon this ques- tion I shall briefly assign a few reasons.
"Justice to all 'sections of the territory require at our hands patient and careful investigation as to the proper place at which to locate the Territorial capital. Its location should be central both as to its geographical position, as well as to its eenter compared with our population. In my investigation of this question, I have arrived at the conclusion that Olympia is nearer the geographical center than any other point I have heard mentioned during the discussion on this subject- and that it is also nearer the center of our present popula- tion. If, Mr. Speaker, you take Thurston County, with its population and add it to the Counties north, there will be found a clear and decided majority of the population of our Territory in those Counties. If you will take Thurston from the northern Counties and unite her with the Counties south, then it will show a still more decided majority south. Thus it is clearly demonstrated that Olympia is about the center of population in this Territory. It is as easily accessible from all parts of the Territory as any place which has been named during the pendency of this question, or that could have been named. It is at the head of navigation at a point the farthest inland, accessible from all Counties north by all manner of watercraft from steamer down to the Indian canoe. It is in a direct line from the Counties south to the Counties north, of the Territory. If you travel from the northern to the southern Counties, you must go through Thurston or travel out of your course. If you travel from the southern to the
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northern Counties you have to pass through Thurston. Then as to the particular location-the site is clearly eligible, the land selected is elevated and overlooks the placid waters of Puget Sound for many miles to the northward. The scenery is grand and imposing-to the north the Coast Range is seen looming up in the distance, Mount Olympus standing out in bold relief amidst the hundreds of less elevated peaks in the vicinity.
"Indeed, Mr. Speaker, I know of no other place combin- ing anything like the claims, all things considered, to the Ter- ritorial capital as does this immediate vicinity; hence I shall most willingly give my support to the bill under consideration. In doing so. I am influenced by no motives of a pecuniary character-I own no town lots or landed estate in Thurston County and such is the poor estimate of my vote or influ- ence that I have not had even the offer of an oyster supper from the good citizens of Olympia as an inducement for either."
Even as early as 1855 the question of prohibition was, to some extent, agitated. This year the Legislature submitted the question of the manufacture and sale of ardent spirits to a vote of the people of the Territory at the next election in July. Quite a vigorous campaign was had, Elwood Evans being appointed Chairman of the Executive Committee, who issued a call upon temperance people to form societies.
A Democratic County Convention was called for April of this year. The Whig convention was held May 5, and the Free Soil convention May 26. At the election Thurston County gave J. Patton Anderson, Democratic candidate for Delegate to Congress nine majority. Wm. Cock was elected Council- man; R. M. Walker, C. B. Baker, D. J. Chambers, Repre- sentatives; T. F. Berry, Surveyor; Assessor, W. B. D. New- man; Commissioner, J. S. Broshears; Fence Viewer, R. M. Walker; Lieutenant Colonel, Joseph Miles; Major, J. K. Hurd.
The vote of Thurston by precincts will give the reader a practical idea of how the population was scattered through- out the County: Three hundred and seventy-three votes were cast as follows : Olympia precinct, 260; South Bay, 18; Black Lake, 15; Yelm Prairie, 18; Grand Mound, 39; Miami,
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9; Coal Bank, 18. Prohibition received a majority of 14 votes in this County, but failed to carry in the Territory.
In August, 1855, a two story school building was erected to replace the one that had been crushed by snow a few years previously. This building has served various purposes. Erected as a school house originally, it was so used for years; from 1874 to 1892 it was the Court house, and latter became a newspaper office. It has since been moved off the property at Sixth and Franklin and is now occupied as a lodging house.
A history of the year 1856 is almost exclusively a story of Indian troubles. All the serious difficulties that Thurs. ton County experienced in this regard, or during which much apprehension was felt, was during this year. Reports were coming to Olympia of troubles in the White River valley, which aroused considerable apprehension. The Yakima tribes were the troublesome element, and it was presumed then, and has since been accepted as reasonably certain, that they were en- couraged in their depredations by the Hudson Bay Company, which, in this way, hoped to discourage immigration.
The first overt act to occur in Thurston County, and from which trouble may be said to date, was early in 1854, when a Kake (a Northern tribe) Indian was killed by a man named Burke, both of whom worked for H. L. Butler, at But- ler's Cove. Subsequently the Northern Indians frequently visited the head of the Sound and committed depredations. The acts at least became so flagrant that Commander Swart- out, then in command of what United States navy there was in these waters, was notified. On November 20th, he made an attack upon their camp at Port Gamble. About thirty were killed and twenty wounded, their camp and canoes destroyed. The remainder were taken to Victoria. This act but served to whet the appetite of the Indians for revenge.
The Indians on the Sound, including those on the Straits, numbered about 8,000, divided into many tribes and bands.
Governor Stevens, early in his administration, outlined a very wise and pacific policy toward the Indians, and one which he devoted himself to actively and sincerely, the fea- tures of which were :
1. To concentrate the Indians upon a few reservations
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and encourage them to cultivate the soil and adopt civilized habits.
2. To pay for their lands in anunities of blankets, cloth- ing, and stable articles during a long term of years, rather than in money.
3. To furnish them with schools, teachers, farmers and farming implements, blacksmiths and carpenters, with shops of their trade.
4. To discourage wars and disputes among them.
5. To abolish slavery.
6. To stop. as far as possible, the use of liquor.
7. They were to retain rights of hunting and fishing on vacant lands.
8. That at some future date, when they were deemed fitted for it, the reservations were to be allotted to them in severalty.
The first Council in Thurston County was held on McAl- lister Creek, a mile above its mouth, on the right bank.
The Indians, to the number of 650, assembled, and Gov- ernor Stevens made an address, at once pacific and appealing, in which he made plain to the Indians his policy as outlined above, and invited their co-operation.
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