An illustrated history of Skagit and Snohomish Counties; their people, their commerce and their resources, with an outline of the early history of the state of Washington, Part 24

Author: Inter-state Publishing Company (Chicago, Ill.)
Publication date: 1906
Publisher: [Chicago] Interstate Publishing Company
Number of Pages: 1172

USA > Washington > Skagit County > An illustrated history of Skagit and Snohomish Counties; their people, their commerce and their resources, with an outline of the early history of the state of Washington > Part 24
USA > Washington > Snohomish County > An illustrated history of Skagit and Snohomish Counties; their people, their commerce and their resources, with an outline of the early history of the state of Washington > Part 24

Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).

A dramatic incident which occurred on the evening of May 20th merits a brief narration. While the horses were being picketed and preparations were in progress for the night, the guards noticed a elond of dust in the distance. In a short time a

INTRODUCTORY

band of mounted Indians, approaching at full gallop, came into view, and the clattering of the hoofs of their horses and the thick dust enveloping them gave the impression that the little band of soldiers, which had had such trying experiences and now seemed within reach of safety, was to be literally wiped from the face of the earth. Excitement ran high. The soldiers became greatly agitated, and orders to prepare for battle were about to be issued when the standard bearer of the oncoming horde, noting the confusion and mistrusting its cause, flung the stars and stripes to the breeze in token of friendly intentions. When the Indians swarmed into camp it was found that the banner was borne by none other than the ever-faithful Chief Lawyer. In the party were some of the sub-chiefs from Kamiah and noted members of the Nez Perce tribe. Steptoe declined to return to the contest with the hostiles, much to the disappointment of Lawyer, who clearly pointed out how Indian allies could be secured and an easy victory won over the confident and exult- ing Indians of the Palouse country. The Nez Perces had, no doubt, learned of the defeat of .Step- toe by means of the wonderful system of signaling in vogue among the aborigines.

The sequel of Steptoe's defeat furnished a more creditable chapter in the history of our Indian war- fare. General Clarke at once ordered Colonel Wright to equip a force of six hundred men, pro- ceed to the Spokane country and castigate the Indians with sufficient severity to settle the question of sovereignty forever. On August 15th Colonel Wright left Walla Walla on his northern campaign. In the battle of Four Lakes, fought on September 1st, and in the battle of Spokane Plains, September 5th, he broke forever the spirit and power of the northern Indians. Lieutenant Kip's description of the former fight is so picturesque that we cannot resist the temptation to reproduce it. He says :

"On the plain below us we saw the enemy. Every spot seemed alive with the wild warriors we had come so far to meet. They were in the pines at the edge of the lakes, in the ravines and gullies, on the opposite hillsides and swarming over the plains. They seemed to cover the country for two miles. Mounted on their fleet, hardy horses, the crowd swept back and forth, brandishing their weapons, shouting their war cries and keeping up a song of defiance. Most of them were armed with Hudson's Bay muskets, while others had bows and arrows and long lances. They were in all the bravery of their war array, gaudily painted and decorated with their wild trappings. Their plumes fluttered above them, while beneath skins and trinkets and all kinds of fantastic embellishments flaunted in the sunshine. Their horses, too, were arrayed in the most gorgeous finery. Some of them were even painted with colors to form the greatest contrast, the white being smeared with crimson in fantastic figures, and the dark-colored streaked with

white clay. Beads and fringes of gaudy colors were hanging from their bridles, while the plumes of cagles' feathers, interwoven with the mane and tail, fluttered as the breeze floated over them, and com- pleted their wild and fantastic appearance.

"'By Heavens! it was a glorious sight to see The gay array of their wild chivalry.'

"As ordered, the troops moved down the hill toward the plain. As the line of advance came within range of the Minie rifles, now for the first time used in Indian warfare, the firing began. The firing grew heavier as the line advanced, and, aston- ished at the range and effectiveness of the fire, the entire array of dusky warriors broke and fled toward the plain. The dragoons were now ordered to charge, and rode through the company at inter- vals to the front, and then dashed down upon the foe with headlong speed. Taylor's and Gaston's companies were there and soon they reaped a red revenge for their slain heroes. The flying warriors streamed out of the glens and ravines and over the open plains until they could find a refuge from the flashing sabers of the dragoons. When they had found the refuge of the wooded hills, the line of foot once more passed the dragoons and renewed the fire, driving the Indians over the hills for about two miles, where a halt was called, as the troops were nearly exhausted. The Indians had almost all disappeared, only a small group remaining, appar- ently to watch the whites. A shell sent from the howitzer, bursting over their heads, sent them also to the shelter of the ravines. Thus the battle ended."

In the battle four days later on Spokane Plains quite a number of the Indians were killed, and Kamiakin, the war chief of the Yakimas, was wounded. After resting a day the forces moved on up the river and encamped above the falls. While there they were visited by Chief Gearry, a fairly well educated, rather bright Indian, who pro- fessed to be against the war. There is reason to loubt the sincerity of these representations, how- ever. Colonel Wright talked plainly to him, saying that if he and the other Indians wanted peace they could have it by complete and unconditional sur- render. On the 8th the march was resumed. About ten miles east of Spokane, Indians were seen in the act of driving their horses to the mountains. The horses were captured and shot, with the exception of one hundred and thirty picked ones, which were kept for the use of the troops. Defeat in battle, the loss of their horses and the execution of a few Indians who had participated in murders completely humiliated the hostile tribes. Councils were held by Colonel Wright at the Coeur d'Alene mission and with the Spokanes, at which it was found that the Indians were prepared to enter a treaty of entire submission to the whites.

THE YAKIMA WAR

In closing his extensive report of this campaign, Colonel Wright summarized its results as follows : "The war is closed. Peace is restored with the Spokanes, Coeur d'Alenes and Palouses. After a vigorous campaign, the Indians have been entirely subdued, and were most happy to accept such terms of peace as I might dictate. Results: (1) Two battles were fought by the troops under my com- mand, against the combined forces of the Spokanes, Coeur d'Alenes and Palouses, in both of which the Indians were signally defeated, with a severe loss of chiefs and warriors, either killed or wounded. (2) One thousand horses and a large number of cattle were captured from the hostile Indians, all of which were either killed or appropriated to the service of the United States. (3) Many barns filled with wheat or oats, also several fields of grain, with numerous caches of vegetables, dried berries and camas, were destroyed. or used by the troops. (4) The Yakima chief. Owhi, is in irons, and the notorious war chief. Qalchen, was hanged. The murderers of the miners, the cattle stealers, etc. (in all, eleven Indians). were hanged. (5) The Spokanes, Coeur d'Alenes and Palouses have been entirely subdued. and have sued most abjectly for peace on any terms. (6) Treaties have been made with the above-named nations. They have restored all property which was in their possession, belonging either to the United States or to indi- viduals. They have promised that all white people

can travel through their country unmolested, and that no hostile Indians shall be allowed to pass through or remain among them. (1) The Indians who commenced the battle with Lieutenant- Colonel Steptoe contrary to the orders of their chief have been delivered to the officer in command of the United States troops. (8) One chief and four men, with their families, from each of the above- named tribes, have been delivered to the officer in command of the United States troops, to be taken to Fort Walla Walla and held as hostages for the future good conduct of their respective nations. (9) The two mounted howitzers, abandoned by the troops under Lieutenant-Colonel Steptoe, have been recovered."

Thus ended the Indian wars of the fifties in Oregon and Washington. The era of robberies, depredations, murders and warfare was by this campaign effectually brought to a close in the Yakima and Walla Walla countries, making the opening of both to settlement possible. General Newman S. Clarke, who had succeeded General Woof in the command of the Department of the Pacific, and who, in the earlier days of his admin- istration, had shown a disposition to inaugurate a similar policy, had completely changed front, even going so far as to recommend the confirmation of Governor Stevens' Walla Walla treaties. These treaties were confirmed.

PART II SKAGIT COUNTY

THE NEW YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY

ASTOR, LINOX TILDEN FOUNDATIONS

Photograph by Westfall

THE RHODODENDRON-the Washington State Flower

PART II SKAGIT COUNTY

CHAPTER I

PERIOD OF SETTLEMENT

The first dawn of settlement on the shores of Puget sound has already had brief description in these pages-the agricultural operations of the Hudson's Bay Company, the coming of Michael T. Simmons, the founding of Olympia, Steilacoom, Seattle, Port Townsend and Bellingham, the settle- ment on Whidby island. Forces at work to pro- duce the complete Americanization and subjuga- tion of the sound were, we have seen, first retarded and then promoted in their operation by the discov- ery of gold in California in 1848. Ten years later they were given fresh impetus by the discovery of gold on Fraser river, and in 1861 they were again retarded by the outbreak of the Civil War.

It was after the Fraser river excitement began its influence and before the inception of fratricidal strife that the first permanent settler commenced the task of home-building in what is now the county of Skagit. In a land where the sound of the loco- motive's whistle had never yet been heard, where roads of any kind were not in existence and where waterways were practically the only means of travel, it is not surprising that an island should be chosen as the site of this early settlement. Fur- thermore, on Fidalgo was one very potent attrac- tion to those who would follow husbandry in a densely timbered country. At the head of Fidalgo bay was a fern-covered prairie of considerable area, a prairie which it is said had been a favorite camping-ground with the Indian tribes for unknown ages. It had early attracted the attention of roving white men from San Juan county and other settlements on the sound. Charles W. Beale tells us that in the winter of 1858-9, he, with Horace Martin and William

McFarland, hunted all over Guemes island, where were abundance of deer and other game, as well as thousands of wolves, and that in the spring of 1859, he, together with his cousin, Robert Beale, Charles Pearson, Jolm Hughes, Brown, and Lieutenant Robert H. Davis (nephew of the cele- brated president of the Southern Confederacy), visited this fern prairie on a hunting expedition. Pleased with its appearance, they decided to estab- lish permanent headquarters there. Lieutenant Davis squatted on what is now the Munks place ; Charles W. Beale took land adjoining him on the north and all united in the task of erecting a cabin on the imaginary boundary line between the two claims, which cabin was occupied by all for a time. Soon, however, a relative of Davis came from the Sonth and took the dissolute young lieutenant home. Davis gave up his wild ways, reentered the army and in the Civil War won distinction for bravery and efficiency as a soldier in the Southern cause. His place was taken by William Bonner, of Utsa- lady, who sold his rights in December, 1859, to William Munks, the consideration being sixty dol- lars and a silver watch. Mr. Munks' residence on

the island continued until his death, although he was absent considerable during the carly years. working wherever he could find employment. It is said that Mr. Munks always claimed to be the first permanent settler and that he was very proud of the title, sometimes applied to him, of "King of Fidalgo Island." His claim as to priority of settle- ment is, however, disputed.

Late in 1859 a man named Josiah Larry came to the island and squatted on the place afterward known as the Compton farm. Having put up a cabin

SKAGIT COUNTY

of shakes, he departed. expecting to return. In the meantime, however, Enoch Compton arrived and thinking that Larry had abandoned his claim took the place and established a permanent residence upon it. Larry returned two or three years later, found his place occupied and quietly retired, set- tling some time afterward on the mainland at the mouth of what is still known as Joe Larry's slough, which forms the southern boundary of the Samish flats. Mr. Beale states that Munks and Compton came together to the island and that the schooner General Harney brought their cattle from Whatcom. Mr. Compton has always claimed that he settled on Fidalgo island at a much earlier date than 1859, but that circumstances prevented his first settle- ment from proving permanent. He says that, in 1853, he and one John Carr (or Carey) located on what was later the home of the Munks family ; that they built a cabin in a grove and occupied it to- gether, one claiming the land to the north of the cabin, the other that to the south. Mr. Compton raised a crop of potatoes on his land, then he and Mr. Carr went to Whatcom to work and Carr died there.

The disaffection of the Indians at this time, which finally crystallized into the war of 1855-6, made it unsafe for whites to dwell upon Fidalgo island, so Mr. Compton did not return as he had intended, but remained near Whatcom until the outbreak of hostilities, when he volunteered for service against the Indians. He was one of the men who were engaged in the boundary survey and it is said that he met Mr. Munks while on that work.

But to return to Charles W. Beale. It will be remembered that he took, in the spring of 1859. a claim adjoining that which eventually became the Munks place. He states that he remained with his claim until 1862, then placed it in charge of his cousin, Robert, and went north. Returning after a stay of five years in the British possessions, he found that Robert Beale had become hard pressed for funds and had sold the place to George Cagey for seventy-five dollars. The subsequent history of Robert Beale may be summarized as follows : After disposing of his cousin's rights, he purchased from a man named Joseph Little, for the paltry consideration of five dressed deer skins, worth about two dollars and a half each, a squatter's title to another tract of land, and held it until 1869. He then sold to Robert Becker for six hundred dollars and went to California for his health. Returning later to Puget sound, he was killed in combat with a huge bear, which succumbed to the wounds in- flicted by his knife. Charles W. Beale located across the bay from the main settlement. and the land which he then took is still occupied by him. He is authority for the statement that in 1868, the smoke from great forest fires throughout the coun-

try became so dense that navigators could not see a boat length ahead, and that birds, suffocated by the thick, black smoke-clouds of the upper air, fre- quently fell onto the decks of vessels and into the water, dead. From July 16th to September 3d, there was not a drop of rain, and then came another dry spell lasting till October 22d. Crops did not ripen that year because of excessive smoke in the atmosphere. The summers during those early years were usually characterized by dense smoke, but as civilization has advanced on the sound more and more care has been taken to prevent great fires in the forest, and now the smoke seldom becomes thick enough, even during the driest summers, to cause serious inconvenience.

To make a complete roll of the carly settlers of Fidalgo, Guemes and the other islands of Skagit county would be next to impossible, but among the earliest were William Munks, Enoch Compton, Charles W. and Robert K. Beale, of whom mention has already been made ; H. A. March, credited with arrival in 1863; James Cavanaugh, Shadrach and Richard Wooten, H. C. Barkhousen, George Ens- ley and George Cagey, all coming between that year and 1867. At that time James Matthews and H. P. O'Bryant were living on Guemes island, opposite the site of Anacortes.

A little later, perhaps about 1869, came William Allard, who settled near the Wooten brothers just south of the present Anacortes; Eldridge Sibley, on the site of the Nelson school, Samuel McCarty and James Lathrow. One arrival of the later six- ties was John T. Griffin, who settled at the head of the bay. His wife, Mrs. Almina Richards Griffin, has the distinction of being the first white woman to locate on Fidalgo island. According to Carrie M. White, she "was a bright, enterprising woman of marked character and was born and educated in New England." "Leaving all her relations," con- tinues Miss White, "she started from Boston for California during the gold excitement in that state. On the ship in which she rounded the Horn she met in its first mate her future husband, Mr. John Griffin. After life on California gold-fields Mr. Grif- fin came in 1864 to Whatcom, where his wife fol- lowed him in about two months, to take charge of the district school which had been presided over by Mr. Edward Eldridge. Mrs. Griffin was the first woman to teach in Whatcom county and had charge of this school for about two years. When she came to Fidalgo, the men welcomed her as the first white woman on this island by making a 'bee' and clear- ing some land for her and hers." It must not be supposed that the men who preceded the Griffin family to the island were all celibates. On the con- trary, most of them were married, but to Indian women. The scarcity of white women on Puget sound during the early days resulted in many alli- ances of white men with the dusky aboriginal maidens.

PERIOD OF SETTLEMENT

Other arrivals of the late sixties or early seven- ties were William Deutsch, Henry Havekost, Will- iam Gray, Oliver Lynch, Henry L. Seebert,

Walker, Orlando Graham, who took a claim on the north end of the island near Ship Harbor in 1823, William R. Griffin, Dr. W. Y. Deere, G. W. Cran- dall, S. B. and C. Best, Captain George B. Hill, Hazard Stevens, son of Washington's first terri- torial governor, William H. Woodard, Henry J. White, George H. Thomas, John Langley, Thomas Sharp, Mathias Anstinsen, Frank Thorp, John Schultz, Albert L. and Frank Graham, Marcus Christianson, J. C. Glover, and no doubt others. Some of these, especially Hazard Stevens, Captain Hill and William R. Griffin, were attracted to the island by its prospect of being the terminus of the Northern Pacific Railroad.

Miss White states that when she arrived in No- vember. 18:3, she found only eight white women, namely, Mesdames H. A. March, G. N. Crandall, Robert Becker, S. B. Best, A. R. Griffin, Jennie Howard, Oliver Lynch and Ada Lynch Church. The settlers of this period on the east side of Guemes island whose names can be recalled were Edward and Horace J. Ames, William Hill, William Brun- ton and Amos Johnson. 'Mrs. Willfong became the island's pioneer white woman about 1872.

The occupation of these early pioneers was farming mostly. From a diary kept by William Munks, to which the compiler was kindly given access, it appears that in the summer of 1863 he raised oats, corn and wheat, as well as onions, po- tatoes and other vegetables, also that he made con- siderable butter and set out apple, cherry and other fruit trees. Mr. Miks also notes having assisted some of his neighbors in getting ready to raise crops.

Even before the dawn of the year 1810. some farm machinery was in use on Fidalgo island, though it was probably of a primitive kind. Mr. Munks had a mowing machine in the spring of 1869 and on the 8th of September following he bought a thresher-a very small, one horse-power concern. In the year 1810, Mr. Munks entered in his diary this item: "Angust 29-Bought stuff at Whatcom." The significance of the entry is not very clear, but it is the opinion of some that the "stuff" purchased was stock for the establishment of the first store on the island. At any rate Mr. Munks did have a store about this time in a board house, situated at the lower edge of his place. He is likewise to be credited with having served as Fidalgo island's first postmaster. His appointment was received January 21, 1821 : he gave bonds the 8th of the ensuing February and was handed the mail key April 5th. The first mail was brought to the island by the steamer Mary Woodruff, which is thought to have made her first trip February 25. 1868. Another steamer which visited Fidalgo bay at regular intervals was the Ruby.

Progress on Fidalgo island during the early seventies appears to have been quite rapid. Its lands were surveyed abont 1871, giving the old pioneers who had long held their property by squat- ter's right a chance to secure a more satisfactory title, and encouraging others to come. Long be- fore this, the agricultural possibilities of these lands had been fully demonstrated. Excellent crops of grain, hay and potatoes were being raised annu- ally and orchards were in full bearing. It is claimed that at the territorial fairs, exhibitions from the island carried off more premiums than those from any other portion of the territory.

Practically all the government land was taken by 1813. the inhabitants were enjoying semi-weekly communication by steamer with the outside world. while in their own settlement they had two stores, two blacksmith shops, a wheelwright's shop, a post- office and a good public school.

At a very early date certain facts and considera- tions which have exerted a powerful influence in the later history of the island began to make them- selves felt. The superior excellence of Ship har- bor had been known perhaps even before the United States vessel, Massachusetts, began making it her headquarters-a circumstance which is said to have given it its name. It did not escape the notice of the able and energetic Governor Isaac I. Stevens, who had been a staunch advocate of the northern route for the proposed railroad to the Pacific. In the interest of this great enterprise he examined carefully all the harbors of the sound and de- spatched numerous exploring expeditions to the various passes through the mountains, "going over the whole ground with a zeal and thoroughness, a degree of enthusiasm and pride in the performance of his great work which for all time have marked Stevens the first hero of the territory." The result of this investigation was the choice by Stevens of Fi- dalgo island as the proper terminus and Ward's pass, at the head of the south fork of the Skagit river, as the most desirable gateway to the Pacific.

The railway company did adopt that route (as may be learned from the records of the interior department) and adhered thereto until financial difficulties in the early seventies all but ruined it. compelling concessions to the Oregon congressmen in order to save its land grant. Quite extensive land holdings along the shore of Ship harbor were secured by Hazard Stevens, son of the governor. as attorney for interests in close touch with the railway company, and the Anacortes farm was se- cured for his mother, the governor's widow. It remained the property of the Stevens family until 1811, when the clouds became so thick over the Northern Pacific Railway project that it seemed the road would never be completed : then it was sold to Mrs. Anna (Curtis) Bowman, "the lady of Ship harbor," who was the first white woman to settle permanently on that part of the island. She built a

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SKAGIT COUNTY

wharf and store on her newly acquired property. In 1879, through the influence of Frances Fuller Victor, a postoffice was established there to which the maiden name of Mrs. Bowman, slightly cor- rupted in the interest of euphony, was applied, and thus the city of Anacortes had its inception.

The settlement of Guemes island, just across the channel from the north end of Fidalgo, began a little later than that of its larger neighbor. About 1866 Humphrey P. O'Bryant located on the island, purchasing his claim for forty dollars of a French trapper, who, it is supposed, was the first settler. James Matthews, owner of the adjoining claim, was the only other white man there at the time. About 1871 came John J. Edens, a farmer and logger, Amos Johnson and John and Solomon Schriver, in 1872 and 1873, and later Ames, Hill and Brunton before mentioned. In 1876 a copper prospect was discovered, which gave quite an impetus to Guemes island, causing the eyes of the surrounding settle- ments to turn in that direction. In the winter of 1877, six experienced quartz miners worked on it for a time, and it is said that specimens of the ore taken to Portland by a mining man named C. L. Walters gave forty-five dollars in copper, eleven dollars in gold and nine dollars in silver. On O'Bryant's claim, opposite Anacortes, between two hundred and two hundred and fifty feet of tunnel were driven, but the mines never did become pro- ducers; nevertheless, the effect on the settlement of this island was felt. In 1878, there were more than thirty people on its thirty square miles of terri- tory, most of them in comfortable homes. They had a precinct organization, and connection with the onter world once a week by the staunch little mail steamer Despatch. In 1889, twenty-eight votes were cast in Guemes precinct, twenty-two of which were Republican, the remainder Democratic.

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An illustrated history of Skagit and Snohomish Counties; their people, their commerce and their resources, with an outline of the early history of the state of Washington, Part 24

Author: Inter-state Publishing Company (Chicago, Ill.) Publication date: 1906 Publisher: [Chicago] Interstate Publishing Company Number of Pages: 1172

Author: Inter-state Publishing Company (Chicago, Ill.)
Publication date: 1906
Publisher: [Chicago] Interstate Publishing Company
Number of Pages: 1172