An illustrated history of Spokane county, state of Washington, Part 10

Author: Edwards, Jonathan, 1847-1929. cn
Publication date: 1900
Publisher: [San Francisco?] W.H. Lever
Number of Pages: 888

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The persons already referred to, Messrs. L. R. Scranton and J. J. Downing, both coming from the east, and a Mr. Benjamin, treated with the Indians in order to have their good will, and built a sawmill on the south bank of the river near where the Phoenix mill is now located. Soon a lawyer by the name of L. S. Swift was on the scene. Lawyers are always swift to see and be where there are prospects of good things. Mr. Swift went to California. Little has been recorded of these pioneers, or forerunners. It might be said with propriety that the real history of Spokane begins in the spring of 1873. At that time Hon. James N. Glover arrived on the spot where now is the magic city of the west and looked in wonder and delight on the rushing, plunging, foaming waters of Spokane river, leaping over the falls into the canyon below. Mr. Glover had re- sided at Salem, Oregon. He was led to this country primarily by two considerations-one was the health of himself and wife; the other a desire to find a grazing country or a sheep range. Early in May, 1873, he left Portland, Oregon, and traveled by boat as far as Lewis- ton. He and his companion, Mr. J. N. Math- eney, traveled northward on horseback. They moved along day by day, surveying the coun- try and pitching their tent wherever they hap- pened to be at night. After leaving Colfax set- tlers were few and far between. When they reached near where Latah is today they found Major Wimpy just settling on a ranch. On the way they met a man by the name of Har- vey Brown, who was carrying mail on horse- back from Lewiston to Pond d'Oreille by way of Kendall bridge, afterwards known as Cow- ley bridge. They were told by Mr. Brown that Mr. Kendall desired to sell his interest in the Iridge and his store, so they traveled in that

direction, and reached the bridge on the day of Mr. Kendall's funeral. Seeing nothing to suit them at the bridge, they moved on toward the little settlement by the falls, arriving on the 12th of May. It was on Sunday afternoon, and the weather was delightful, and after look- ing around and crossing the river in a pine log made into a canoe, about where the Division street bridge is, and taking in the lay of the land, they became infatuated with the place and its surroundings. Mr. Downing had sold his half interest to Mr. Benjamin for a consid- eration of two thousand dollars, but only four hundred had been paid, with no prospects that more could be paid. Mr. Glover decided to buy Mr. Benjamin's interest and pay Mr. Downing the difference between four hundred dollars and two thousand dollars. Leaving Mr. Matheney on the ground, he went back to Salem for ma- chinery and returned in August, coming over- land by team from Wallula. He found things in such a condition as to make it advisable for him to purchase the other half interest in the mill and town site. The bargain was made. al- though the papers had to be signed under the cover of darkness, the other party being a fugi- tive from justice, charged with cattle and horse stealing. The squatter's rights, the mill, the improvements and good will were purchased for four thousand dollars. At this time Walla Walla and Lewiston were the only towns in . the region known as the Columbia valley. It was very evident that there was to be a town of considerable importance in the near future somewhere in the "upper country." and what spot so fitting as that beside the beautiful and mighty falls of Spokane ?

The white settlers north of the Snake river were few in number, of which the majority re- sided in the Colville valley, and had been em- ployees of the Hudson's Bay Company. . 1 fair estimate of the white population between the Snake river and the British line, not count- ing the soldiers at Fort Colville, hardly exceed- ed three hundred. Nevertheless that the coun-

BELL'S

GRILCRIES & BAKERY

BANERY & GROCEPH S

Cash Fand For Menare Produce.

BAKT

... .

Traders' Bank Corner, Spokane, in Early Days

HISTORY OF SPOKANE COUNTY.

try would soon be occupied by white people, and that a great transformation was near at hand, was evident to foresighted men. Indeed the roar of the iron horse could almost be heard in the distance, and to a man of vision the Indian tepees were soon to disappear, and tow- ering bricks to take their places.

Messrs. Glover and Matheney were soon joined by Mr. C. F. Yeaton, of Portland, Ore- gon. MIr. Yeaton and wife are natives of Mas- sachusetts, and now live near Seattle. Mrs. Mary Garrison, of Hopewell, Oregon, a sister of Mr. Jasper N. Matheney, kindly sent us a sketch of his life. He was born in Schuyler county, Illinois, in 1834, and came to Oregon with his parents when nine years old-1843. After marrying, he settled in Salem and bought the ferry boat on the Willamette river. He was sheriff of Marion county for four years, after which he came to Spokane. The Black Hills mining excitement led him to that country. From there he moved to California and then to Mexico. While on his way to the World's Ex- position he died of dropsy of the liver in San Francisco and was buried in the Masonic cen- etery. His youngest son, Guy, lives in Mex- ico. A niece, Mrs. Barrett, an artist, lives in this city, and has her studio in the Granite block.

They entered into partnership to operate the sawmill and do a merchandise business. This was the initiatory step which led to the making of this city the commercial centre of a vast empire. It was the day of small things as compared with the present, yet a great under- taking under the circumstances. Mr. Glover purchased what seemed then a good stock of merchandise, and also some new machinery for the mill. A lively business was done by the mill during the summer, about one hundred thou- sand feet of lumber being cut.

A store room and dwelling were erected. A few more settled in this region, mostly stock- men, but a few farmers. At the close of 1873 there might have been one hundred souls in

what now constitutes Spokane county. In ad- dition to those already mentioned, there were Hiram Still, of the California ranch; William Spangle, proprietor of the town of Spangle; Henry Kaiser, who led an eventful life, who lived on the Ellis place near Union Park; Max- ime and Peter Muluoine. Daniel Courchaine, Frederick Post at Rathdrum. A mail route had been established from Lewistown via Coi- fax, Major R. H. Wimpy's on Upper Hang- man Creek, the California ranch, Spokane Bridge, and Spokane Falls. Mr. Scranton was appointed the first postmaster, but the active one was Mrs. Swift. It was kept at her resi- cence in a log cabin at the lower end of Post street. After Mr. Scranton's ignominious de- parture Mr. Yeaton was appointed and filled the position for three years. The prospect of the speedy coming of the Northern Pacific Railway gave reason for encouragement to the few courageous settlers, and stimulated their expectations. But these prospects were blighted in a great measure by the failure of the rail- road magnate, Jay Cooke. In the midst of all these there came rumors of Indian outbreaks, and these were greatly magnified by the Port- land and other papers. The people were filled with terror, which nearly resulted in a panic. . Conditions appeared so serious and dangerous that some families living in the surrounding country went to Walla Walla. But the winter of 1873-4 passed without an Indian outbreak, or anything else of a serious nature beyond apprehensions. Among the most unpleasant experiences of the early settlers were the peri- odical rumors of Indian outbreaks, all of which proved groundless excepting the Nez Perce and Bannock outbreak of 1877-8. It is worthy of mention that probably the visit of Rev. H. H. Spalding among the Spokanes had something to do with influencing them to conduct them- selves as they did. In October, 1874, Rev. H. T. Cowley and family arrived, which was quite an acquisition to the population. Mr. Cowley came as a missionary to the Indians at the re-

HISTORY OF SPOKANE COUNTY.

quest of Rev. Spalding, who had added to his charge the Spokanes at the request of the Pres- byterian board. Mr. Pool and family arrived the day following the Cowleys, augmenting the population of Spokane Falls to fifteen persons.

In the fall the Spokane district in Stevens county was organized. It was one of great proportions, one hundred and fifty by one hun- dred miles, reaching from the Idaho line to the Columbia river and from Spangle to Chewe- lah. The school had an attendance of four during the first term and Mr. H. T. Cowley was the teacher. In the organization of the district it necessitated the using of all the citi- zens to fill the offices.

During this year General Jeff. C. Davis went through the place on his way to Fort Colville and the Indians honored him with a pow-wow in front of Glover's store. Christ- mas and New Year were made memorable. The preparations were elaborate. Wagons were sent to Lewiston and Walla Walla for Christmas presents and delicacies for the New Year dinner. The presents on the Christmas tree made the children happy, but hardly more so than the privilege of speaking their pieces. Both events were a great success. In 1875 Hon. Robert H. Wimpy was elected the first member of the Legislature for Stevens county. which then embraced Spokane. Lincoln. Douglas and Okanogan: D. F. Percival and L. W. Myers were elected county commis- sioners ; James N. Glover, justice of the peace : G. N. Hofstetter, sheriff. Colville was the county seat.

In May of this year Rev. S. G. Havermale visited the little settlement of the falls on his way to Colville on a preaching tour as presiding elder of the Methodist Episcopal church. He had met Mr. Cowley at Lewiston a year be- fore this. Mr. Havermale says : "I made my first visit to Spokane in May, 1875. It came to pass in this way. Mr. W. Park Winans. who had been residing at Colville as Indian

agent, met me at Walla Walla and urged me to make a trip to the Colville country. He informed me that some of the people were very anxious to have a Protestant preacher visit them. One day he said to me. 'I will give you twenty dollars to help pay your expenses to the upper country.' That settled it. A young man there. not a professed Christian. showing somuch interest greatly impressed me." Mr. Winans is to-day one of the most prom- inent and respected citizens of Walla Walla and one of the most earnest and generous members of the Cumberland Presbyterian church .- [Editor.] Mr. Havermale, continu- ing his narrative, says, "I started with a young man with me. There were only Indian trails then. We camped one night near where Spangle now is. The next day. after travelling about ten miles, we met a man somewhere about where Cheney is located and inquired the way to the lower bridge-the La Pray bridge. But he directed us to the upper bridge, in- forming us that he had made the journey to Colville and back that way in one day, making about two hundred and forty miles." Mr. Havermale says in his jovial manner. "He must have a wonderful horse. But by being misdirected we came to the falls of Spokane. We met Messrs. Glover and Yeaton, who kept a small store about where the Windsor Block is to-day, across the street from the City Hall. When we told them that we were on our way to Colville, and had been directed to go by way of the upper bridge, they pronounced it impossible. On describing our informant they laughted, saying that he had never told the truth but once in his life, and had gone seventy-five miles on horseback to take it back.

"How did things appear to you then. Mr. Havermale?" "The scenes and Meaton charmed me The falls were magentcom the water being quite high at that time with year. Yêu cầu have no nica to das font 0 looked then. The open beautiful pro-

HISTORY OF SPOKANE COUNTY.

delightful to look upon, covered with thick grass and wild flowers. The grass was up to my knees where the big blocks now are. I fell in love with the place and about de- cided to settle here there and then. I preached here and then we moved on toward Colville by way of the lower bridge, and preached at Colville and Chewelah, and in due time re- turned to Walla Walla. In November of the same year I removed my family here and set- tled on a quarter-section of land. We built our first log house. 18x26. near the banks of the river, about the corner of Front avenue and Bernard street." This was the second quarter-section entered upon in what now constitutes the city of Spokane. The south- east corner of the quarter-section is now cor- ner of Sprague avenue and Division street, northeast. across the street, from the S. F. & N. depot. southwest corner at the city hall. reaching north half a mile. Mr. Havermale's claim included nearly all the water power excepting the big falls. It took in all the Big Island, now Havermale Island, which Mr. Havermale describes as especially picturesque in its natral state, covered with trees and thick grass. The city council named the three islands, the largest. Havermale: the second in size, on which the Echo mill is, Glover, and the third. or smallest. near the Centennial mill. ( annon. The summer was very dull, with- out the increase of population that was ex- pected, and the winter was a severe one.

Early in 1876, Mr. Frederick Post and family removed from Rathdrum westward here. His name will always be associated with this city as the one who built and oper- ated the first grist mill. Mr. Post is now en- joying vigorous old age at Post Falls, I·laho, showing the same enterprising spirit as in days gone by. In view of the advantages expected to accrue from the mill. Mr. Post received forty acres of the one hundred and twenty acres town site, with water power and use of the saw-mill to manufacture the necessary

lumber. Little was done on the grist mill that year. Mr. Glover erected a new store building with second story adapted for a hall. It was ready for the 4th of July celebration. which has found its place in history as a "grand affair." and attended by people from the Snake river to British Columbia. In the fall three new families were welcomed.

The spring of 1877 indicated but faint prospects of an improved condition. The town firm did not find their business suffi- ciently profitable to continue in partnership. therefore a dissolution took place. Mr. Glover buying out the others.

This was the year of the Nez Perces out- break. The whole population of the upper country was terrified by the massacre of the Salmon River settlers. The settlers around Walla Walla and Colfax flocked to these towns for refuge. Some removed from this region to the towns mentioned. . \t Colfax a company of minute men was organized. A state of terror reigned here from June 27th to .August 10th. The town people and settlers around assembled together and after deliber- ation retired to the Big Island and there erected a hasty fort for defense. But they only remained about a week on the island. the demeanor of the Spokanes being such as to almost insure safety. August 10th brought joy to every heart, for General Wheaton with five hundred soldiers arrived. It was a por- tion of General O. O. Howard's army, the other portion being engaged in pursuing the Indians across the Bitter Root mountains. The United States troops under General Wheaton encamped between Riverside avenue and the river. Mr. Edward Knipe, 304 Mansfield avenue, was one of them and a non- commissioned officer. A grand council of all the Indians of eastern Washington and north- ern Idaho was called. There was a response on the part of every tribe except the Moses band. Though it cannot be said that the council accomplished anything directly, never-

HISTORY OF SPOKANE COUNTY.

theless it practically fulfilled its purpose. The sight of the troops encouraged the settlers and exerted a restraining influence over the Indians. In September General W. T. Sher- man passed through with an escort of fifty men. Those who came in contact with him did not have reason to believe that he was fa- vorably impressed with this location. At least he did not manifest any enthusiasm. But it is said that when he reached Cœur d' Alene lake his delight was unbounded. It was there that he located the fort that bore his name until it was abandoned. After travel- ling southward and taking in the lay of the country. the General ordered two companies of infantry to be stationed at Spokane. in- stead of at Palouse City, as at first intended. In October the troops were in temporary quarters and their presence appreciated. They contributed considerably in making a marked contrast in appearance as compared with the previous winter. During the fall a number of new families arrived-Percivals, Herbert Myron, Majors, Rima and Masterson. And in the meantime Mr. Post had completed his mill and was making flour, and thus the peo- ple were. supplied with the "staff of life." The spring of 1878 witnessed the departure of the troops to their permanent quarters at Fort Sherman, near Coeur d' Alene City, which .greatly depleted the population, but that was balanced by quite an inflowing of new settlers. Among the new arrivals were Cap- tain J. M. Nosler, W. C. Gray, Dr. L. P. Waterhouse, A. E. Ellis, A. M. Cannon and J. J. Brown. The two persons last men- tioned, Cannon and Brown, purchased a joint interest in the town site and became conspicu- ous and potent agencies in the development of it. It may be said that Spokane Falls en tered upon a new era at this time. Cannon, Warner & Co. opened a store with an ex- tensive stock of goods, being the successors of Glover & Co. W. C. Gray erected a small frame hotel which was called the Cali-

fornia House. It was for years considered the only first-class hotel in the city and was enlarged and improved to keep pace with other developments. It was located on the site of the City Hall and was known before the great fire as the Windsor Hotel. The California House was opened on Thanksgiving night with a "grand" ball which was generously patronized for the proceeds were applied to pay for the school building then in course of construction near the corner of Post street and First avenue.

The year 1879 brought with it new hopes and sanguine expectations. This was caused by the resurvey of the Northern Pacific Rail- road with prospects of speedy construction this way. The realization of long-expected prosperity seemed near at hand. The new town had attracted the attention of an enter- prising young newspaper man. Hon. Francis H. Cook, then member of the Territorial Legislature from Pierce county, started the first paper, the Spokane Times. We have been told that Mr. Cook made it a matter of conscience to omit the "e" from Spokane. The paper was published in a building on southeast corner Howard and Riverside streets.

The town was now beginning to assume the shape of a city, with Howard street as the center of business. The stores were becom- ing quite numerous. On Howard were F. A. Moore & Co., J. F. Graham, Friedenrich & Bey, Arthur & Shaner. J. N. Squires, McCam- mon & Whitman, R. W. Forest. N. P. Hotel. The buildings were quite modest as com- pared with to-day. Some only one story high and none over two stories. L. Ziegler, Clark & Richards and Percival & Corbaley had stores 011 Main street, and Dawn & Cornelious on Front street.

The first bank north of the Snake river was opened in June of this year by .A. M. Cannon. joining the store building, corner Front and Howard streets, facing Howard. This win-

SPOKANE FALLS

HISTORY OF SPOKANE COUNTY.

ter the Legislature authorized the creation of Spokane county and fixed the county seat at Spokane Falls, subject to confirmation by the ballots of the people the following year.

On the 3rd of June of this year Colonel D. P. Jenkins arrived. He was the first set- tler on the north side in what is now included in the city. He entered upon what is now Jenkins' addition, first as preemption, after- wards changing it to a homestead and taking advantage of the time he served in the army. The first temporary building was erected on the banks of the river.almost directly south of the college buildings. He also built the first real house on the north side in 1881. a part of which still stands on Mallon avenue near Lincoln street .. It was originally lo- cated a few rods northeast of where it now is. on a spot where previously a temporary build- ing had been erected, but had been removed.

Mr. S. Heath arrived in the city early this year, but did not settle on his land until the following year. The Spokan Times for De- cember, 1879, says :

"For the first time in the history of Spo-

kan Falls, it has been decided to have a public Christmas tree and entertainment on next Christmas eve. The management will be in the hands of the officers and friends of the Sabbath school. The following committees have been appointed and accepted by the school :

"Executive Committee-Mr. Cook. Mrs. Nosler and Miss Peet.

"Finance-Mr. Clark, Miss Ida Ellis, Miss Rilla Masterson, Miss Ama Waterhouse and Mrs. Mollie Wood.

"Music-Dr. Gandy, Mrs. Cook and Olly Ellis.

"Decoration -- Mrs. Warner, Miss s Post and Curtis Dart.

"Tree and Evergreens-Lafayette Dart, Mr. Rue and Herbert Percival.

"Room-Messrs. Lewis, Whitten and Muzzy.

"Presents-The teachers.

"Cornucopias-The two Bible classes, with Mrs. Shannon as chairman.

"Popcorn-Mr. Rima, Miss Muzzy and Miss Edith Cowley."

CHAPTER XV.

SPOKANE CITY, CONTINUED-1880 TO 1890.

The year 1880 was not especially lively from a business standpoint, but was made so by the great contest over the permanent location of the county seat. In fact there was quite a lull in the little town, the people waiting pa- tiently the coming of the Northern Pacific Rail- way, which was being rapidly constructed east- ward from Ainsworth this way. Ainsworth was once a flourishing town on the junction of the Snake and Columbia rivers. But there is nothing to be seen today but sage-brush. Before

the railroad reached here a syndicate of specu- lators, railroad men and some others, laid out a new townsite sixteen miles west of here and gave it the name of a Boston capitalist, Cheney. The new town grew rapidly, and many had strong faith in its future, because it was the railroad town. Some doubtless risked their fortunes on it, believing that a town that had a great railroad corporation behind it would surely become the metropolis of eastern Wash- ington.

HISTORY OF SPOKANE COUNTY.

With the co-operation of the settlers of the adjacent country, especially the four lakes re- gion, Medical Lake, the new town of Cheney, captured the county seat by a small and what some have dared to claim, doubtful, majority. This gave a great advantage for a while, and it seemed as if the ambitions of its prime orig- inators were going to be realized.

The railroad reached Spokane Falls in 1881, and resulted in renewed activity, but not up to reasonable expectations. The influence of mei: in high places, the practical managers of the Northern Pacific Railroad, gave the rival town of Cheney the cream of the business for two or three years. But the enterprising business men made the best of the situation and made a brave fight against adverse circumstances, though they had corporation magnates to con- tend with. In July the second paper. the Chronicle, was started, and the Times issued a daily for several months.

Two church buildings were started this year, the Congregational and the Methodist Episcopal, the former on the southwest corner of Sprague and Bernard, and the latter on the southwest corner of Sprague and Washington. During this month the first brick block was erected. It was built by the Wolverton Bros. on the northeast corner of Riverside and Mill, where the Wolverton block stands now. The first building was 30x50. It marked a new era in building and was a prophecy of the imposing brick blocks of today. This year was charac- terized by the inauguration of an educational movement of great moment. Father Cataldo; S. J., purchased half a section of land on the north side of the river, on part of which the magnificent Gonzaga College was completed last year. The whole half section is being rap- idly filled with elegant homes and has already become one of the most desirable and conven- ient resident portions of the city. On the east- ern part is located the Academy of the Holy Names and the Orphanage, two elegantly equipped buildings. Fuller treatment of Ro-

man Catholic institutions is found in another chapter. The Methodists established a college on the north side, west of Monroe, on land do- nated by Col. D. P. Jenkins. This also we leave for further treatment in another chapter.

This year ( 1881), with a population of about one thousand, the city of Spokane Falls was incorporated. The late Hon. Robert W". Forrest, a native of Pennsylvania, a worthy man, was appointed mayor. In the roll of honor of the first city council we find S. G. Havermale, A. M. Cannon, Dr. L. H. White- house. L. W. Rima. F. R. Moore, George A. Davis, W. C. Gray. Four have gone to the great majority-Forrest, Cannon, Rima, who surveyed the original town site, and Moore (lied in the city. Dr. Whitehouse lives in Oak- land, California. George .\. Davis resides at Snohomish .and W. C. Gray on his fine hay and fruit ranch in Stevens county.

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An illustrated history of Spokane county, state of Washington, Part 10

Author: Edwards, Jonathan, 1847-1929. cn Publication date: 1900 Publisher: [San Francisco?] W.H. Lever Number of Pages: 888

Author: Edwards, Jonathan, 1847-1929. cn
Publication date: 1900
Publisher: [San Francisco?] W.H. Lever
Number of Pages: 888