USA > Washington > Spokane County > An illustrated history of Spokane county, state of Washington > Part 3
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"What can we ever hope to do with the western coast, a coast of three thousand miles, rock-bound, cheerless and uninviting, and not a harbor on it? What use have we. for such a country? Mr. President, I will never vote one cent from the public treasury to place the Pacific coast one inch nearer Boston than it is now."
Senator Benton said in 1825 :
"The ridge of the Rocky mountains may be named as a convenient, natural and ever- lasting boundary. Along this ridge the western limit of the Republic should be drawn, and the statue of the fabled god Terminus should be erected on its highest peak, never to be thrown down."
These expressions are not to be wondered at when we realize that nearly all information pertaining to the country had been received through representatives of the Hudson's Bay Company or through persons influenced by them. They had advisedly, for selfish purposes, described it as a "miasmatic wilderness, unin- habitable except by savage beasts and more sav- age men." This was done in order to prevent the settlement of white people in the country. which they knew would ultimately interfere with their lucrative fur traffic with the ab- origines of the land.
JOINT OCCUPANCY TREATY.
Both Great Britain and the United States being apparently unprepared for definite action, in 1818, a treaty of joint occupation was en- tered into by which "The northwest coast of America westward of the Stony Mountains shall be open to the subjects of the two con- tracting powers, not to be construed to the prej- udice of any claim which either of the high contracting parties may have to any part of said country." This treaty was extended in- definitely in 1827, with the provision that after
1838 either party could abrogate it by giving the other one year's notice. Under this treaty the Hudson's Bay Company's shrewd repre- sentatives exercised every strategy conceivable to prevent immigration from the United States and succeeded to a great extent for some time. But increasing knowledge of the value of the country stimulated the indomitable frontiers- men to move westward. Despite the despicable efforts of the Hudson's Bay Company to ar- rest wagons, break plowshares, freeze out set- tlers, and by a system of overland forts and seaport surveillance prevent every step that tended toward the actual occupancy of the country, a sufficient number of Americans had settled before 1844 to force upon the United States the question of title. In the year men- tioned Mr. Calhoun, then secretary of state. demanded of the British government a specific statement of its claims to the Oregon territory. Great Britain replied by renewing a claim al- ready made in 1824, namely, "That the bound- aly line between the possessions of the two countries should be the forty-ninth parallel of north latitude to where it intersects the north- castern branch of the Columbia river. then down the middle channel of that river to the sea." This claim, if allowed, would have given Great Britain not only British Columbia but also the greater part of the state of Washing- ton. Great Britain based its claim upon the ex- ploration of the Columbia by Vancouver after Gray had discovered it, and upon the occu- pancy of the country bythe Hudson's Bay Com- pany for traffic in furs. The United States lested its claim on Captain Gray's discovery of the Columbia river, on the Louisiana pur- chase, on the explorations of Lewis and Clarke. tracing the Columbia from its source to its mouth, on the settlement of Astoria, on the treaty with Spain in 1818 and on the treaty with Mexico in 1828. Mr. Calhoun rejected the claim of Great Britain and proposed the forty-ninth parallel from the Rockies to the sea as the division between the two countries. The
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HISTORY OF SPOKANE COUNTY.
Democratic convention of 1844 declared for the annexation of Texas and also "that our title to the Oregon territory was clear and un- questionable, and that no part of the same should be ceded to Great Britain." The "shib- boleth" of the Democratic party during that campaign, relative to the Oregon question, was "fifty-four forty, or fight." An effort was made to abrogate the treaty of 1827 and it seemed for a time that war between Great Britain and the United States was inevitable. The proposal of the British minister, Mr. Pack- enham, to submit the question in dispute to ar- bitration was respectfully declined, and the final result of negotiations was the treaty of 1846, whereby the forty-ninth parallel orig- inally proposed by Mr. Calhoun was accepted by Great Britain as the boundary between the two countries. Provision was made in this treaty that when the boundary reached the waters of the Pacific coast it should run down the middle of the channel which separates the continent from Vancouver island, and thence southerly through the same channel and Fuca straits to the sea. No map or chart being at- tached to the treaty, according to which the line could be drawn, a vexatious controversy arose which came very near involving the two coun- tries in war. The contention related to the location of the middle of the channel which separates the continent from Vancouver island. Great Britain insisted that it was in the Rosaria straits or channel. while the United States con- tended that it was in the Canal de Haro. Eachı party adhered to its position through a pro- tracted and vehement correspondence upon the subject. Between these channels was an area of about four hundred square miles, including
several prominent islands comprising land area of about one hundred and seventy square miles which was the bone of contention on the part of both parties. After a prolonged debate of the question, each party determined to have its own way; by the treaty of Washington in 1871 it was agreed that Emperor William of Ger- many, as arbitrator, should decide which of the two claims was most in accordance with the treaty of 1846. He decided in favor of our claim, thus giving the United States an undis- putable claim to the island of San Juan and the other islands around it. Although the Hud- son's Bay Company took possession of all the country west of the Rocky mountains and on both sides of the Columbia river, yet Great Britain did not assert possession of that part of the country now constituting the state of Ore- gon. But it is evident that if the title was good north, it was equally good south of the river. Furthermore, if the title of the United States was good as to what is now Oregon and Wash- ington, why not equally good for all the terri- tory, including British Columbia ? Careful and candid students of the situation have con- tended that the proposition of Calhoun in 1844 to surrender to Great Britain all the territory north of the forty-ninth parallel of north lati- tude was made in the interest of slavery. The less there was of this territory, the number of free states to be admitted into the Union would be less. If he had not committed our govern- ment to such unfortunate, and what some have designated as "disgraceful" offer, it is quite probable that British Columbia would be to-day, what many would deem desirable in view of its growing importance, a part of the United States.
CHAPTER II.
PIONEER MISSIONARIES.
The history of the pioneer missionaries of the Pacific Northwest is a romance. By their exertions and sacrifices they have accomplished a work that entitles them the honor and admi- ration of successive generations. They were the founders of a new empire and the ushers of civilization to the land of the setting sun. Bancroft says in his history of Oregon: "It is in the missionary, rather than in the com- mercial or agricultural elements, that I find that romance which underlies all human en- deavor before it becomes of sufficient interest for permanent preservation in the memory of mankind. I believe the time will come, if it be not already, when to the descendants of these hardy empire-builders this enrollment will be recognized as equivalent to a patent of nobil- ity." Few men have in equal measure exhib- ited the heroic and self-denying spirit of the Apostles as these pioneer missionaries did. Seldom have been given to men such an op- portunity to exert a far-reaching and enduring influence upon future generations. It was their privilege to lay deep, strong and broad foundations, upon which their successors have, and will, erect grand and permanent super- structures. Though dead they yet speak, and we enter into their labors. A sense of our ob- ligation to them should incite us to honor their memories and perpetuate their names.
The events leading to the establishment of the earliest mission stations in this region are full of interest. They have a political as well as a religious significance and deserve a prom- inent place in the history of any and every por- tion of the country.
All reliable historians cheerfully admit that as New England was settled by people who came there to enjoy religious freedom which they could not find in the Old World and founded our empire of civil and religious lib- erty, so also-"American ascendancy on the Pacific coast north of California and west of the Rocky mountains is largely due to the efforts of courageous men and women to Christianize the aboriginal inhabitants of the country. When the missionaries of the .At- lantic states commenced coming to Oregon ter- ritory, all the white people here. with possibly a few exceptions, were subjects of the British crown, and though the objects of the mission- aries was to the Indians, their presence here was a standing notice to Great Britain that the United States claimed the right to occupy the territory. Some criticisms have been passed upon the missionaries because they were not more successful in their missionary work. and because they gave too much time and at- tention to other pursuits, but whatever may be true as to these matters, their defiant struggle with the dangers and difficulties of pioneer life is worthy of the highest praise." (Judge Will- iams. )
In 1832 five Flathead or Nez Perce Indians arrived at St. Louis in search of the White Man's God and book. They were feeling after the true God if haply they might find Him. Two thousand miles they traveled. climbing precipitous rocks and over high and rugged mountains. They pressed their way through almost impenetrable forests, crossing wide prairies and dismal valleys, and fording
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HISTORY OF SPOKANE COUNTY.
rushing streams and deep rivers, all in order to find out more regarding the book that told all about the Great Spirit, the hunting ground of the blessed and the trail thereto. Who can conceive the hardships they endured ere they reached their journey's end? It is not known how long it took them to make the journey. But they reached St. Louis, and for a time they moved silently around in moccasin and blanket, attracting but little notice among the few thousand inhabitants. Among them were two old chiefs noted for wisdom and prudence. The other three were young braves selected be- cause of their endurance and daring in any perils. It was not easy for them to make known their errand. They found many things to interest them, but not that one thing which they felt they needed more than all else. They were kindly treated, entertained, blanketed and ornamented. They were led to the cathedral and shown the altar and the pictures of saints. But withal they were not satisfied. Why? Because they had faced the perils and endured the hardships of a long journey, in order that they might have better ideas of the Great Spirit of the white man and the book of the white man which shows the long trail lead- ing to the Eternal Camping Ground. But this they had not found and doubtless thought their journey was in vain. As the three surviving braves were about starting on their return jour- ney, sad at heart and disappointed, the farewell address of one of them delivered in the office of General Clark, is full of genuine pathos and deserves a place among the world's literary classics.
THE INDIAN'S FAREWELL SPEECH.
"I came to you over a trail of many moons from the setting sun. You were the friend of my fathers who have gone the long way. I came with one eye partly opened, for more light for my people who sit in darkness. How can I go back with both eyes closed? How can I go back blind to my blind people ? I made my
way to you with strong arms, through many enemies and strange lands that I might carry back much to them. I go back with both arms broken and empty. The two fathers who came with us-the braves of many winters and wars-we leave asleep by your great water and wigwams. They were tired in many moons and their moccasins wore out. My people sent me to get the white man's book of Heaven. You took me where you allow your women to dance, as we do not ours, and the book was not there ; you showed me the images of good spir- its and pictures of the good land beyond, but the book was not among them to tell us the way. I am going back the long, sad trail to my people of the dark land.
"You make my feet heavy with burdens of gifts, and my moccasins will grow old in car- rying them, but the book was not among them. When I tell my poor blind people, after one more snow in the big council, that I did not bring the book, no word will be spoken by our old men or by our young braves. One by one they will rise up and go out in silence. My people will die in darkness, and they will go on the long path to the other hunting grounds, No white man will go with them and no white man's book to make the way plain. I have no more words."
It was the potency of this plaintive appeal from the wilderness which started a spontane- ous movement to establish an Oregon mission to the Indians, and thence came all those sub- sequent and consequent events which, by weld- ed liks of steel, have bound into this union of states the whole brilliant galaxy of the Pacific commonwealths.
In response to the earnest appeal of the In- dians the first missionary to be appointed for Oregon was Rev. Jason Lee; in 1833. He established a mission in the Willamette Val- ley, in the vicinity of Salem, under the aus- pices of the Methodist Episcopal church in 1834. He was a great man and accomplished a marvelous work. He deserves all the rec-
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HISTORY OF SPOKANE COUNTY.
ognition and praise rendered him in the ex- cellent work entitled, "Oregon Missions," by Rev. H. K. Hines, D. D. But as his labors were confined to the present Oregon, but did not particularly affect this region, it does not seem to come within the province of this work to enter into particulars regarding his life- work. But we improve this opportunity to heartily commend the work above mentioned.
In this work we shall be compelled to con- fine ourselves to those whose careers have ex- erted an influence, by exploration, missionary labors or otherwise, in the settlement and de- velopment of the country known as the "In- land Empire," and have thus became directly or indirectly identified with the history of this county.
A chronological treatment of the history will give the first place to Rev. Samuel Parker.
As early as April, 1833, he offered himself to the A. B. C. F. M. as a missionary to Oregon. He had enlisted the interest of his own peo- ple and hoped to be promptly sent upon his per- ilous enterprise. But the Board hesitated, fearing, distrusting, delaying, yet they could not trust the inspiration of this man whom God had touched, and he pressed his suit, offering to raise all needed funds and find suitable as- sociates.
In 1834 Parker went as far as St. Louis, but he was too late for the fur caravan, and returned to New York. While waiting for the passing of winter he was not idle, but raised money and made missionary addresses.
As Mr. Parker is the first explorer of Spo- kane county, whose work attracted the atten- tion of eminent geologists. I think a sketch of his life is fitting in this work.
Rev. Samuel Parker was born at Ashfield. Massachusetts, April 23, 1779. He was of Puritan ancestry, noted for their piety and posi- tive character. His grandfather landed at Charleston, Massachusetts, soon after the set- tlement of Plymouth, Massachusetts. He en- tered Williams College. in 1803, was admitted to
Sophomore standing and graduated in 1806. His fidelity and studiousness gave him a good standing among his classmates. Following his graduation he spent one year teaching at Brat- tleboro, Vermont. After this he pursued theo- logical studies under the supervision of Rev. Theophilus Packard, D. D., and was licensed to preach in 1808 by the North Congregational Association of Hampshire county. He was soon sent as a missionary to New York state where he did arduous work in the then wild regions of Geneva and Wayne counties for nearly a year. His theological studies were re- sumed in the fall of 1809 at Andover Theologi- cal Seminary, graduating with the first class of that institution. On December 23. 1812. he . as ordained and installed at Danby, New York. by a Congregational council. After a pastor- ate of fifteen years at Danby, New York, he be- came financial agent of Auburn Theological Seminary in New England. In 1833 he offered himself to the A. B. C. F. M. as a missionary to Oregon but was not accepted. In January. 1834. at the annual Fast and Prayer day. he offered to go in the employ of the First Presby- terian church of Ithaca, New York, with the sanction of the American Board. In the spring of 1834 he and Rev. John Dunbar and Mr. Samuel Allice, teacher, started for Oregon. But after starting they were falsely persuaded that they were too late for the caravan of the Fur Company, consequently Messrs. Dunbar and Allice went to the Pawnee Indians and Mr. Parker returned to the east.
While traveling in southern New York conducting missionary conferences Mr. Parker met at Wheeler, Marcus Whitman, M. D. In the spring of 1835 Parker and Whitman start- ed for Oregon. They went together as far as the Green river rendezvous, whence Dr. Whit- man returned for recruits. Rev. Parker con- tinued his journey westward and spent 1835- 36-37 in making his exploring tour beyond the Rocky Mountains under the auspices of the .A. B. C. F. M. He is the first real explorer of
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HISTORY OF SPOKANE COUNTY.
the country north of the Snake river. After his return he wrote his book entitled "Journal of an Exploring Tour Beyond the Rocky Mountains under Direction of the A. B. C. F. M." J. C. Derby & Co., Publishers. 5th Edition, 1846.
Over twenty thousand copies were sold and it was commended for its geological value by Professors Edward Hitchcock, Benjamin Sill- man, and other eminent geologists. Mr. Park- er lectured through New York, Pennsylvania, Illinois, Indiana, Missouri. Kentucky, sixteen hundred times in all, which, with the distribu- tion of his book, did much in creating public sentiment in favor of Oregon, resulting in the present boundary line. "He was a bold, decid- ed man, full of energy and resolution, doing with his might. wisely, whatever he undertook to do, daunted by no dangers." After a long life of arduous toil and many years of physical infirmity, Mr. Parker passed away from earth in his eighty-seventh year. He died in peace fully trusting in God's promises, and his phys- ical remains were interred in the Ithaca, New York, cemetery near Cornell University .*
PARKER'S EXPLORATIONS.
No early explorer or missionary received a more hearty welcome from the Indians than Rev. Samuel Parker. They followed him by the hundreds and gave him every aid within their ability as he traveled over the mountains. Their joy seemed to be unbounded in view of his mission among them. In the fall of 1835 Mr. Parker reached Fort Vancouver and spent the winter there and was employed as a teach- er by the Hudson's Bay Company. In the spring of 1836. he went up the Columbia river to the mouth of the Snake river. He then traveled east and north, making careful obser- vations of rocks and soil. He describes quite ac- curately the fertile Palouse country and pre- dicts its present fame as a wheat region. In his journal he describes himself coming to the
Spokane woods, then to the Spokane river where there was a ferry. Of the valley he says, "This is a very pleasant, open valley, though not extensively wide. The Northwest Com- pany had a trading post here, one bastion of which is still standing. After the river we crossed a valley of level, alluvial soil, where it is about a mile and a quarter wide and the east side is especially fertile. Here the village of the Spokeins is located, and one of their num- ber has commenced the cultivation of a small field or garden, which he has planted with po- tatoes, peas, and beans, and some other vegeta- bles, all of which were flourishing and were the first I had seen springing up under Indian in- dustry west of the mountains." Page 2SS. "As we wound our way up the mountains in several places I found granite. When we came, to the summit of the mountains, we came to a sandy plain several miles wide and covered with yel- low pine. Over parts of this plain were scat- tered volcanic eruptions of singular formation. Hundreds of regular cones of various magni- tudes from those of a few feet in diameter and height to those of a hundred feet in diameter and sixty feet high. They all had the same ap- pearance, differing only in magnitude and were composed of broken granite in angular pieces, from those that were very small, to those six or eight inches in diameter, and on the outside were nearly black, as if colored with rising smoke. They had more the appearance of be- ing broken by manual labor, and piled up for future use in constructing roads and wharves than having been the result of internal fires, and yet no other cause but the latter can be as- signed. The sandy plain around them was un- disturbed and large pine trees were growing about them as in other places. After passing the plain we descended and came again to the Spokane river which makes a bend around to the northeast. In this place the valley is less extensive and the mountains are more precipi- tous. We again descended the mountain. upon which granite and mica slate prevail without
*Indebted to Dr. S. J. Parker, Ithaca, N. Y., for facts regarding his father, Rev. Samuel Parker.
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HISTORY OF SPOKANE COUNTY.
any volcanic appearances. From this we de- scended into a rich valley which was covered with a luxuriant growth of grass though but just springing up. This valley has the appearance of having been a lake filled up with mountain deposits. In the center is a small lake from which proceeds a rivulet passing out at the southwest. Leaving this place we wound around a mountain in a northerly direction down a valley less fertile but more extensive. Came to a stream of water in the afternoon at four o'clock. Came to encampment. Spokein and Nez Perce Indians brought a good inter- preter, a young man of their nation, who had been in school at Red River settlement. Win- nipeg, and had obtained a very good knowl- edge of English." Page 289. "These benighted Indians manifested the same solicitude to hear the gospel that others had done before them. And as an affecting proof that the impressions made on their minds were not momentary, they
went home and erected in their village a church constructed of rude materials. surely, but de- signed, as they said, so that when the next mis- sionary arrived, they should have a place of worship. The morning of the 28th of May. 1836, was cloudy and some rain fell. After traveling a few miles in an easterly direction we came to a very fertile valley well adapted to cultivation. extending north and south for at least fifty miles, and of various extent in width. from one-half mile to two miles. The valley is open prairie well supplied with grass, and at even this high latitude of 48 degrees cattle would do well through the year without the labor of cutting hay. Came to village of In- cians. Near their principal village we came to Mill river. Wherever I have met with the natives of this distant region, they have invari- ably with earnestness and importunity asked the gift of the Gospel from the hand of Christ." 290.
CHAPTER III.
OTHER EXPLORERS AND WRITERS
Though we have referred to Rev. Samuel Parker's work as one which attracted the spec- ial attention of geologists, nevertheless we do not mean to slight in any degree previous ex- plorers or undervalue their service. . In a work like this we can do but little more than refer to them, and we deem it advisable to confine ourselves to those who actually visited the Spokane country, and came in contact with the Spokanes. The journals of Lewis & Clarke give us evidence that they traveled through the country of the Spokanes. But they refer to the Spokan woods, which is prob- ably the first time for the word Spokan to be recorded in history. Alexander Ross. in his
book entitled, "AAdventures of the First Set- tlers on the Oregon or Columbia River, being a narrative of the expedition fitted out by John Jacob Astor to establish the Pacific Fur Co .. " refers to Mr. Clarke of said company, establish- ing a post among the Spokanes. ( Page 212.) The second is Gabriel Franchere in his work entitled, "Narrative of a Voyage to the North- west Coast of America in the years 1811, 1812. 1813. 1814. or The first American Settlement on the Pacific." These two gentlemen were on the first vessels fitted out by the Pacific Fur Company or John Jacob Astor. It was the Tonquin which sailed from New York in the autumn of ISI1, having on board four part-
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