An illustrated history of the Big Bend country, embracing Lincoln, Douglas, Adams, and Franklin counties, state of Washington, pt 2, Part 40

Author: Steele, Richard F; Rose, Arthur P
Publication date: 1904
Publisher: [Spokane, Wash.] Western Historical Pub. Co.
Number of Pages: 618


USA > Washington > Douglas County > An illustrated history of the Big Bend country, embracing Lincoln, Douglas, Adams, and Franklin counties, state of Washington, pt 2 > Part 40
USA > Washington > Adams County > An illustrated history of the Big Bend country, embracing Lincoln, Douglas, Adams, and Franklin counties, state of Washington, pt 2 > Part 40
USA > Washington > Franklin County > An illustrated history of the Big Bend country, embracing Lincoln, Douglas, Adams, and Franklin counties, state of Washington, pt 2 > Part 40
USA > Washington > Lincoln County > An illustrated history of the Big Bend country, embracing Lincoln, Douglas, Adams, and Franklin counties, state of Washington, pt 2 > Part 40


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The following is an extract from a circu- lar issued by the Washtucna Real Estate & Loan Company relating to the early history of the Washtucna country :


"Long ere the first pathfinders of the white race had climbed the eastern slope of the Blue Mountains to their summit, and from there looking westward, had viewed the wondrous Columbia river valley, this section (the Wash- tucna), on account of its mild climate, its lux- uriant, succulent grasses and its proximity to flowing waters, was famous among the red tribes of the Nez Perces, Yakimas, Umatillas, Walla Wallas, Cayuses, Snakes, Lapiwas, and Okanogans. Here they brought their bands of ponies in the fall and pitched their wigwams for the winter, and while their squaws fished for salmon and sturgeon in the waters of the Snake and Palouse to support their haughty warrior lords, the ponies waxed fat and frisky on the rich grasses of the hill slopes and rolling prairies. The winters being mild no shelter was required, and the bunch grass growing from two to three feet high was always avail- able provender even in the deepest snow.


"The pioneer of this country was, of course, like the pioneers of all the northwest, a stock- man. The conditions that had made it attrac- tive to the nomadic bands of savages served to make it the ideal stockman's paradise. For a quarter of a century after the first settlement by whites, thousands of cattle, horses and


sheep grazed over the hills and plains, even as did the ponies of the Indians, requiring no shel- ter and no provision of provender for winter. The expense being nominal and profits vast, the stockmen made large fortunes in a short time and many a prominent banker, merchant and business man in all parts of the state can even now be pointed out as men who made their fortunes in the 'Fat Washtucna Land.'


"It was not until late in the '80's that the first attempt at farming was made. Probably it was some forlorn wanderer from 'Pike', who had traveled as far as his jaded horse could go, and he must stop to rest. He had trav- eled far and had seen many countries. He was not in search of a mountain of gold or the fountain of youth. He wanted a place where he could live easy, and this looked good to him, and he stayed. When the chinook winds of winter came, baring the ground and warm- ing the atmosphere and clothing the hills with verdure, he hitched up his team, now grown fat, to an antiquated plow he had rustled some- where, and broke up a patch of ground. He planted the potato peelings his family had saved during the winter, and he went fifty miles to Walla Walla and secured a few sacks of wheat to sow. His first efforts did not bring immediate and fabulous wealth; for hun- dreds of miles the unbroken prairie surrounded his humble home, and the ground squirrel and gopher devastated his crop. Barbed wire was high and money was scarce, and he was com- pelled to herd wandering stock from the little patch of wheat and garden truck. He had to travel from 50 to 75 miles for supplies, and for two or three months in the summer he would migrate to some older settled locality where he worked through harvest to save enough to winter on. He did not grow discouraged. He believed that land that would produce from a half to a ton of wild hay to the acre would grow wheat, and so he held on, and his, faith was rewarded. In time other settlers began to come in, always poor, like the first, for


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wealth is never venturous, but they could ex- change work and cheer each other. They studied the climate, the seasons, and the variety of seeds best adapted to the needs of the coun- try. They learned that the longer the land was cultivated the more productive it grew. The plowing of the ground allowed it to ab- sorb the moisture and one thorough wetting in winter was sufficient to mature the crop. The mild climate which permitted plowing all winter, except for thirty or forty days, and the long, rainless season gave him ample time to harvest and market his crop. There were no blizzards and no cyclones. Fortune smiled on industry and today many of the men who ten years ago herded gophers from their grain patches and eked out a precarious existence, working out most of the time, are now worth from $25,000 to $100,000 and sell each year from 10,000 to 40,000 bushels of wheat."


Philip Ritz was the pioneer settler in the northern part of Adams county, having lo- cated just south of where the town of Ritz- ville now stands in the spring of 1878. Old timers say that Ritz took up land here and se- cured all he could lay his hands on, but did, practically, nothing to improve the land which he obtained-in fact he was against immigra- tion to the country, and wrote articles to the papers stating the land was barren and un- productive. He never did anything to advance the interests of the county or Ritzville.


The town of Canton, South Dakota (then Dakota Territory), furnished the bulk of the settlers who came to Adams county prior to the building of the Northern Pacific railroad. In August, 1877, J. M. Harris, wife and four children, Al York, wife and three children, and Will York, after, a perilous trip overland from Dakota prairies, arrived in Walla Walla, then the only place of any importance in East- ern Washington. That same fall J. G. Ben- nett and family came to Walla Walla, after a sojourn, en route, in Oregon. During the month of August, 1878, another party of Can-


ton people, comprising D. Keller, wife and four children, and William McKay, wife and two children, landed in Walla Walla, hav- ing made the journey with teams overland.


This colony of Dakota people who had taken up their abode, temporarily, in Walla WValla, learned of the country north of them from Philip Ritz, and in May, 1878, several of the party, J. G. Bennett, J. M. Harris, Charles Chapman, Al and Will York, moved into the new country. They came to the place of Mr. Ritz, and Bennett and Harris each se- lected a location. The others, not being partic- ularly pleased with the outlook, returned. Mr. Harris chose a claim just west of the present town of Ritzville, and Mr. Bennett selected one about two miles north. These gentlemen improved their claims and made preparations for permanent homes, following three or four trips from Walla Walla during 1878 and 1879. The first building put up in this settlement was erected in the fall of 1878, by Philip Ritz, the work being done by J. M. Harris and Charles Chapman.


James Gordon Bennett died August 31, 1892, a pioneer of two territories, Dakota and Washington. In 1878 he located a homestead one mile north of Ritzville, at a period when it required a combination of great courage and unlimited faith to establish a home on what was then considered by many a barren desert. Mrs. J. G. Bennett, who has been a resident of Adams county since 1880, in an address de- livered before the Old Settlers' meeting in 1901, paid this glowing tribute to the county, and the surrounding country, which she has seen de- velop from a barren prairie to a thickly settled and prosperous country :


"Twenty-one years have made a wonder- ful change in this part of the state of Washing- ton known as Adams county. The treeless, bunch grass prairie has been transformed into beautiful farms, dotted with fine houses, barns, wind-mills, orchards and groves, which lend an added grace to the landscape in every direc-


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tion. The immigrant who now comes to Adams county is not a pioneer ; neither has he come to the 'wild west.' When he reaches Spo- kane he finds a beautiful and progressive city -its equal from every point of view, it is doubtful, if he left in the east. About two hours ride brings him to Ritzville, the largest primary wheat-shipping point in the United States, a town of which the people of the coun- ty are justly proud. It is doubtful if another, town of its size can equal the business houses, churches, school and court house, and dwelling houses. Its citizens, too, are above the average in intelligence, industry and morality. Our sister towns in the county can also boast of their present and future bright prospects. Will any one say that Adams is not the banner coun- ty of the state, considering its age?"


The Nez Perce war of 1878, which caused so great alarm among the settlers of eastern Washington, enters into the history of Adams county. As has been shown, at that time there were a few stockmen along Cow Creek. The only family in the county then was that of J. F. Coss. They removed to Walla Walla and re- mained there until the outbreak had subsided, remaining with the family of J. G. Bennett.


The year 1879 witnessed the arrival in the Ritzville district of a few more enterprising settlers from Walla Walla. As one harks back through the archives and historical records of Washington Territory he is forcibly reminded that this ancient town of Walla Walla has played no unimportant part in the upbuilding of our prosperous commonwealth. It has been the halting place for thousands of immigrants ; their outfitting point before ramifying through- out the state; it has, in a number of instances, proved their place of refuge from hostile In- dians. Walla Walla is rich in story; muni- ficent with a wealth of legendary lore and pic- turesque reminiscence.


Among these prospective settlers then mak- ing Walla Walla their base of operations, were D. Keller and family, and Harry Horn, who


came in September, 1879. Shortly after com- ing to the Ritzville country Mr. Keller returned east, and for some time Mrs. Keller and the children were left alone. Until December of that year Mrs. Keller, was the only woman in the young settlement. In the spring of 1880 Mr. D. Keller, J. M. Harris, William McKay and J. G. Bennett began improving their lands. They hauled timber for their houses from a mill then in the vicinity of Medical Lake.


It was in 1879, also, that James M. Ken- nedy took up a homestead on Cow Creek. Dur- ing the month of February, 1880, the settle- ment was increased by the addition of the fam- ilies of Messrs. Bennett and Mckay, and in the autumn of this year came the family of Mr. Harris. It may be said that this was the initial date of settlement of this portion of Adams county. True, those who had preceded them had taken up land and made some scattering and frugal improvements. But, as a matter of fact, their homes were, in reality, in Walla Walla. Among the 1880 colony may be men- tioned Mr. and Mrs. George Sinclair.


In 1880 we find the following people resid- ing in the settlement in the vicinity of where Ritzville stands: William McKay, wife and child; Mr. and Mrs. D. Keller and four chil- dren; Mr. and Mrs. J. G. Bennett and two chil- dren; Mr. Bennett's mother and Harry Horn. These were the only people at that time living between Cow and Crab creeks. It was in 1880 that the first wheat crop was harvested in Adams county. It was raised on the farm of J. G. Bennett.


The few pioneers who passed the winter of 1880-81 in that portion of Whitman, which a few years later was set off as Adams county, state that the season was the most severe they had up to that date experienced. Snow fell the last of December, and by the middle of Janu- ary there were eighteen inches on the ground. It bore, also, a thick crust of ice, making travel an impossibility until the last of February. It is said that all of this snow disappeared within


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three days, and in its place were streams of turbid water radiating in every direction. The stockmen of the country suffered the loss of the greater portion of their cattle and horses. For over two months no mail was received. Mrs. Bennett, writing of the doleful experience of this winter, said: "We were here to stay and overcome difficulties; nevertheless it required courage, more courage than many dream of when they start west to 'grow up with the coun- try.'"


During this "hard winter" a man named Sullivan, who was the mail carrier between Fort Walla Walla and Camp Spokane, became lost and nearly perished from cold. He was making his weekly 'trip on horseback, and missed the trail west of Ritzville. For three days he wandered through the cheerless coulees and over the bleak, snow-covered hills. A party composed of the mail contractor for the route, Mr. Monaghan and others, set out in search of the lost man, and on arriving in Ritzville found that he returned to that point. He had nearly perished from hunger and exposure.


It was during the year 1881 that the North- ern Pacific Railway Company pushed its line through eastern Washington and penetrated the territory that afterward became Adams county, dividing it into nearly two equal parts. The construction of this railroad brought a few more settlers to the country this year. An- other agency which materially contributed to the settlement of the new country in 1881 was D. G. H. Atkinson, who at that period was home missionary for the Congregational churches of Oregon and Washington. In the line of his duty Dr. Atkinson found it neces- sary to make occasional trips through that part of the Big Bend country lying between Sprague and the Columbia river, and between Sprague and the Snake river. He became much im- pressed with the flattering possibilities of these great plains. A number of articles descriptive of the country, its actualities and future, were published by him in the Portland Oregonian


and other papers. These sketches had the effect of bringing a few settlers this year, and more the next. Per contra other reports detrimental to the country were in circulation, and those who came did so with grave doubts of the prac- ticability of making a permanent home here. Some of the statements which reached the out- side world, on the wings of rumor, were to the effect that this portion of the territory would not raise beans, and that the men who were settling there were erratic; that it was a corner. of the earth that had been set aside for a romp- ing ground for coyotes, badgers and squirrels.


In what light the country was then regarded by some of the early settlers along the streams is illustrated by an incident related by Mrs. Bennett. She said :


"Mr. Bennett was planting trees when a man from Crab Creek came to him and said: 'Do you expect to raise trees here?' 'Oh, yes,' replied Mr. Bennett, 'I expect to raise trees here. Why not?' 'Well, you are just fooling away your time,' answered the stranger. 'There is not the least indication that a tree ever grew this side of Crab Creek. I don't believe the ingredients are in the soil suitable for tree cultivation.'"


Since then it has been fully demonstrated that trees will grow in Adams county soil, with a suitable amount of care and attention.


Three more settlers and their families came to the Ritzville country in 1880. These were George Sinclair, another South Dakotan; O. S. Edwards and William Edwards. During these discouraging years of early settlement- years of doubt, forebodings and anxiety-the few struggling settlers who were attempting to found homes in the wilderness suffered in- numerable hardships incidental to frontier life. Their nearest trading point was Walla Walla, as it was, also, the nearest postoffice. Mail was received at various and uncertain periods as circumstances demanded a trip to the city for provisions. But in 1882 there was a noticeable revival in immigration. These new settlers


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were, mainly, Germans. They located in the country west of where the first comers had taken up their lands. Prominent among the 1882 contingent were the families of Messrs. Rosen- off, Bowers, Thiel, Kanzler and Schoessler.


The first nuptial ceremony in Adams coun- ty territory took place December 25, 1882. The contracting parties in this frontier wedding were Mr. Albert Baily and Miss Ella Coss. The second wedding was that of Mr. J. Sam- uel Edwards, who was married to Miss Nora Harris, April 10, 1883.


At this period (1883) the entire country from Snake river to the Columbia, through Adams county, was one dense forest of bunch grass; the habitat of the cowboy and the coy- ote and the cowboy's cayuse. The Northern Pacific Railway Company had recently com- pleted its line across this great plain; the few ยท hardy pioneers scattered along the various wa- tercourses little dreamed of the wonderful changes destined to eventuate within less than two decades. In fact, quite a large number of the settlers were, at this period, inclined to be somewhat pessimistic; the optimist was an ex- ception to the rule. Still, the seasons of 1883- 84 saw a large immigration into the country. They became history makers as well as pio- neers. Among them were J. L. Johnson, S. A. Wells, R. J. Neergaard, F. M. Egbers, Clark Long, A. S. Newland, Frank Newland, Mr. Schoell, T. W. Hauschild, N. H. Greene, O. P. Tuttle, G. Gritman, F. Sheel, J. M. Com- paret, the Olsons, J. Turner, F. Ebner, Mr. Ahlers and others.


Whitman county, from which Adams and Franklin were carved, was created by Territor- ial legislative act November 29, 1871. The boundaries, however, were indefinite, and No- vember 12, 1875, this act was repealed and the following limitations prescribed for Whitman county which at that period included both Adams and Franklin counties.


"Whitman county shall. be and consist of all that territory commencing at a point where


the section line between sections 21 and 28, township 14 north of range 27 east, Willamette Meridian, state of Washington, strikes the main body of the Columbia river on the west side of the island; thence east on said section line to township line between ranges 27 and 28 east ; thence north on said range line to the 4thi stand- ard parallel; thence east on said parallel to the Columbia guide meridian; thence north to 5th standard parallel ; thence east on said parallel to the boundary line between Idaho and Washing- ton ; thence south on said boundary line to the mid-channel of Snake river; thence down the mid-channel of Snake river to mid-channel of Columbia river ; thence up the mid-channel of Columbia river to a point opposite the place of beginning; thence east to the place of begin- ning."


Thus the territory of Whitman remained, including Adams and Franklin, until the two latter counties were set off in 1883. In that year there were, perhaps, 150 men, women and children within the limits of what is now Adams county. Although the population at this period was meagre, the enterprising settiers set to work to organize a new county. Colfax was the capital of Whitman county, as it is today, and the people living in the settlement about Ritzville found that it was a great inconven- ience to transact county business at a point so far distant from their homes. Those who were prominent factors in this county division move- ment were S. A. Wells, J. L. Johnson, R. J. Neergaard, J. G. Bennett, William McKay, J. B. Whittlesey, George Sinclair, Clark Long, Darwin Keller, and others. Perhaps S. A. Wells proved himself the leading spirit in the project ; at least he did the principal portion of the lobbying. These, and possibly, others, living in the Ritzville country, raised money and dispatched Mr. Wells to Olympia where he worked assiduously in the interest of the bill. There was, in fact, but little opposition. H. W. Fairweather, then a resident of Sprague, opposed the measure, probably influenced by


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fear that the creation of Adams county might jeopardize Sprague interests.


To S. A. Wells belongs the credit of hav- ing named both Adams and Franklin counties. He was at the state capitol at the time of the strenuous struggle attendant on the organiza- tion of Lincoln and Douglas counties. To him it then seemed appropriate to confine the names of the several counties in the Big Bend to those which had been borne by the most patriotic statesmen of the past. Accordingly, when he drew the bills for the creation of two new coun- ties, carved from Big Bend territory, he be- stowed upon them the names of Adams and Franklin. Concerning the formation of Adams county, and the location of the county seat at Ritzville, Mr. Wells said :


"In looking over the map at a period when Whitman county embraced both Adams and Franklin, it one day occurred to me that Ritz- ville might be converted into a county capital. Impressed with this idea I went to the railroad station and broached the subject. The people with whom I conversed pronounced the scheme impracticable. They said 'It can't be done.' I replied, 'Can't is a word I do not recognize in my vocabulary.' On this line I proceeded and against great obstacles and numerous dis- couragements succeeded in securing the for- mation of the two counties and the location of the county seat of Adams county at Ritzville."


Following is the organic act as it passed both houses and was approved by the gov- ernor :


"An Act to create and organize the County of Adams.


"Be it enacted by the legislative assembly of the Territory of Washington :


"Sec. I. That Adams county shall be and consist of all that territory of Whitman county bounded as follows, towit : Beginning at the northwest corner of township 14 north, range 28 east of the Willamette meridian; running thence north to the 4th standard parallel ; thence east to the Columbia guide meridian; thence


north to the 5th standard parallel; thence east on said parallel to the line between the ranges 38 and 39; thence south on said line to where it intersects the Palouse river in township 16; thence down said river to where the line be- tween townships 14 and 15 crosses said river; thence west on said line to place of beginning. "Sec. 2. That James G. Bennett, George Sinclair, Sr., and J. L. Johnson are hereby ap- pointed county commissioners of said county. "Sec. 3. That the county commissioners above named are hereby authorized within twenty days after the approval of this act, and upon ten days' notice, to qualify and enter upon the discharge of their duties as such commis- sioners, and are hereby empowered to appoint all county officers necessary to perfect the or- ganization of said county, and the county com- missioners aforesaid, sheriff, auditor and other officers appointed, shall hold their office until the next general election, and until their suc- cessors are elected and qualified according to- law.


"Sec. 4. That the justices of the peace, constables, road supervisors and other precinct and school officers heretofore elected and qual- ified, and now acting as such, residing in that portion of Whitman county which is, by the provisions of this act, included in the county of Adams, are hereby continued as such officers in said county of Adams until the next gen- eral election, and until their successors are duly elected and qualified.


"Sec. 5. That the taxes levied and assessed for the year 1883, on the persons and property within the boundaries of Adams county, as herein described, shall be collected and paid to the treasurer of Whitman county, and after the indebtedness of said county has been settled, the treasurer of Whitman county, upon the de- mand of the treasurer of Adams county, shall pay to him the pro rata share of Adams county of the money remaining on hand, on the first Monday in May, 1884, from said taxes actu- ally collected for the year 1883. Provided,


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said demand shall not be made before the first Monday of May, 1884. And provided further, That said Adams county shall receive no part of the property of Whitman county ; Provided, nothing in this act shall exclude Adams county from its just proportion of its school money.


"Sec. 6. The county auditor of Adams county is hereby authorized to take transcripts of all records, documents and other papers on file or of record in the office of the county audi- tor of Whitman county, which may be neces- sary to perfect the records of said Adams coun- ty, and for this purpose the auditor of Adams county shall have free access, without cost, to the records and files in the office of said auditor of Whitman county, and the certificate of the auditor of said Adams county, of the correct- ness of all records and files so transcribed by him, shall have the same force and effect as if made by the auditor of Whitman county.


"Sec. 7. That all suits that have been com- menced, or are now pending, in which Whit- man county is a party, shall continue to be prosecuted or defended by said Whitman coun- ty. Said Adams county shall not be liable for any judgment or cost, nor receive any benefits or emoluments from any such suit or suits.


"Sec. 8. The county of Adams shall be at- tached to Spokane county for judicial purposes.


. "Sec. 9. The county of Adams shall be attached to Whitman county for legislative purposes.


"Sec. 10. The county seat of Adams coun- ty is hereby temporarily located at the town of Ritzville, until the next general election, at which time the permanent location of the coun- ty seat shall be submitted to a vote of the peo- ple, and the place receiving the majority of votes cast shall be the permanent county seat of said Adams county.




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