USA > Washington > Douglas County > An illustrated history of the Big Bend country, embracing Lincoln, Douglas, Adams, and Franklin counties, state of Washington, pt 2 > Part 45
USA > Washington > Adams County > An illustrated history of the Big Bend country, embracing Lincoln, Douglas, Adams, and Franklin counties, state of Washington, pt 2 > Part 45
USA > Washington > Franklin County > An illustrated history of the Big Bend country, embracing Lincoln, Douglas, Adams, and Franklin counties, state of Washington, pt 2 > Part 45
USA > Washington > Lincoln County > An illustrated history of the Big Bend country, embracing Lincoln, Douglas, Adams, and Franklin counties, state of Washington, pt 2 > Part 45
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"For equability and mildness of climate, absence of very hot or cold waves, and free-
791
HISTORY OF THE BIG BEND COUNTRY.
dom from destructive tornadoes or cyclones, Washington stands foremost among the favored states of the American Union."
In this particular it is sufficient to say that Adams county is not behind the rest of this highly favored state. October 24, 1902, the Ritzville (Adams county) Times said :
"Blizzards and cyclones are unknown here, and on an average of one-half the winters the thermometer does not go below zero. While it has been known to go to 22 degrees below in one instance, in the past, it is an exception, in- deed, when it goes below 10 degrees, and then only for a few hours, or days at most, and even then the air is so dry that one does not feel the cold so much as in the east at 10 above zero. The springs and autumns abound in sunshine interspersed with occasional refreshing show- ers, making the climate invigorating. The nights, even in the warmest portion of the sum- mer, are invariably cool and pleasant. The atmosphere the year round is very invigorating, inspiring one with energy, thrilling every pul- sation, brightening the intellect and infusing energy and ambition into every part of the body."
The record of rainfall as taken by D. Buch- anan, who resided one mile south and four miles west of Ritzville, for the years begin- ning in 1891, is as follows :
Year.
No. of
showers.
Rainfall, inches.
1891
58. 7.02
1892
75. II.26
1893
96. 13.72
1894
86. II.68
1895
75. 10.84
1896
91. 15.15
1897
97.
17.05
1898
68.
9.21
1899
106. 14.56
1900
II7 13.70
Total showers, 857 : rainfall, 124.19 inches. In connection with this table Mr. Buchanan said :
"A critical examination of this table shows
that during the ten years last past there was a precipitation of 124.19 inches, which gives an annual average of 12.42, the range being from 7.02 inches in 1891 to 17.05 inches in 1897. The first five years of the decade give an aver- age of 10.90, while the average for the last five years shows an annual average of 13.90 inches, which tends to prove the prevailing impres- sion as correct, that in a semi-arid country the rainfall is increased by its cultivation."
In 1902 the Ritsville Times commented as follows :
"Through the courtesy of the Hon. Daniel Buchanan, who has kept a record for ten years, we are enabled to append a table showing the precipitation in Adams county during the year 1901. It will be noticed that the average for the year is 1.76 inches below the normal rain- fall. Still, the crops were above the average yield. The wonderful qualities of the soil to withstand drought is thus illustrated. The table follows :
Months
No. of
Rainfall,
showers.
inches.
January
9.
1.99
February
12.
.2.08
March
II.
.0.78
April
5.
.0.32
May
9. .0.64
8.
I.IO
July
4. .
.0.43
August
4. .
.0.17
September
II.
1.39
October
I.
0.01
November
II. 1.16
December
8
.0.59
Total
93 10.66
Average previous ten years
12.42
Short of average
1.76
June
"As will be seen by the above table July and August are the dry months. The rainy season commences in September or October. Novem- ber, December, January and February witness the greatest precipitation ; March and April are variable and May and June are often showery and cool. The farmers figure on a large yield
792
HISTORY OF THE BIG BEND COUNTRY.
with one rain in June, while even this is not necessary to make a fair crop.
"To eastern farmers this may appear un- desirable for agricultural purposes, but as we have no hot, burning south winds, when thoroughly and candidly considered, it is an ideal arrangement. The grain is sown in the fall and remains in the ground during the months of the greatest moisture, and is har- vested during the dryest part of the year. Rust is unknown here. The grain does not need to be stored. Indeed, hundreds of thousands of sacks of grain may be seen in the fields with no covering save the blue sky."
Mark W. Harrington, ex-chief of the Uni- ted States Weather Bureau, in speaking of the soil of some parts of the Inland Empire, in- cluding the county of Adams, says :
"The fine soil is very fertile. It seems to be a kind which is perpetually fertile. In the whole world I know of only one locality which has a similar soil. That is the north of China, in the two provinces of Shansi and Stensi, west of Pekin. This is the original home of the Chi- nese, from which they spread out over the rest of China. The soil is wonderfully fertile, ior though it has been cultivated for 4,000 years, it remains unchanged and to mne this soil seems to be the same, from which I am led to believe it is inexhaustible. Another characteristic of the soil is the small fall of water required to raise crops."
The farmer of Adams county has profited to an unusual degree by the wonderful improve- ments in farm machinery of late years. Our forefathers whose farm work was so largely done by hand, would imagine themselves in a new world should they examine the methods of today. In no department of agriculture has the change been greater than in wheat raising. The light soil and level surface of Adams coun- ty, with its recent settlement by an enterpris- ing and cosmopolitan population, has led to the use of the most modern machinery. Each farmer thus handles a large acreage at less ex-
pense and is, to a great degree, saved from the labor problem which is so serious a feature of the harvest seasons of the older states. Horses of good quality are plenty and cheap, and are used in farm work in teams of six or eight. The wheat is about equally divided between fall and spring grain. Spring seeding commences about the latter part of February. The drills used are from twelve to sixteen feet in length, drawn by six or eight horses, and seeding twenty acres a day. Then follows plowing for next year's crop, substituting for the walking plow of former days, the two or three gang, or four-disc plow, cutting from three to five feet in a furrow. Several farmers in Adams county operate steam plows, breaking up seventy-five acres per day. Harvest commences about July 4th, and is carried on with the best harvesting machinery in the world, the steam thresher, with modern improvements, capable of thresh- ing over two thousand bushels per day, or the combined harvester drawn by 32 horses or worked by steam, where a single machine, with half a dozen men, cuts, threshes and sacks ready for market, twenty-five to forty acres of wheat per day. The wheat is drawn to the warehouse or the railroad by teams of from four to eight horses, usually drawing two or three "trail" wagons.
Fall seeding follows closely after harvest. The winter, usually, is open and mild, allowing plowing and other farm work to continue to a considerable extent. The farmer of Adams county has but few idle days during any portion of the year, and better yet, plenty of reason at the close of the year to congratulate himself on the result of his labors.
This description of agricultural industries is not confined to Adams county, but is in- cidental to the entire Big Bend country, of which this history is an impartial statement of facts, in so far as such facts could be obtained. Throughout the counties of Lincoln, Douglas and Franklin, the routine is much the same, as is the soil and climate. But in the preceding
1
793
HISTORY OF THE BIG BEND COUNTRY.
chapters we have not devoted much space to the industrial details of Inland Empire farming, and the descriptive portions concerning Adams county will aptly apply to many other sections of the Big Bend.
The purest of soft water has Adams coun- ty. In this she excels a number of neighboring counties. Wells are dug or drilled from six to several hundred feet deep. The most con- siderable stream is Cow Creek in the eastern part of the county. The Palouse river crosses the southeastern corner of the county. In the northeastern portion lies an extensive body of water known as Colville lake. Although this is available for irrigation purposes it has never been so used. The Adams county farmer will contend that he has no necessity for irrigation. And he makes his word good by enormous crop results. October 24, 1902, the Ritzville Times said :
"The principal products of this section are wheat, oats, barley, cattle, hogs, fruit and vege- tables. The principal crop is, of course, wheat, and the fact must not be overlooked that wheat raised in this section, owing to the excellent qualities of the soil and climate, is actually the best milling wheat in the state, and always brings in the open market from three to four cents per bushel more than any other wheat in the state except Walla Walla wheat, which is the same. The average yield of wheat last year (1901) for the county, carefully compiled by responsible statisticians, was 371/2 bushels per acre, and the average by years for the past ten years, taken as a whole, twenty-two and one- half bushels per acre. Oats and barley yield from 40 to 60 busliels per acre. Rye yields from 15 to 25 bushels. Potatoes grow here very successfully, the product being a hardy, mealy specimen and much admired by those only acquainted with the watery kind grown in irrigation districts. All the hardy vegetables and fruits thrive well in this county without ir- rigation. From a work entitled "Adams Coun-
ty," published by the Ritzville Chamber of Commerce, we glean the following informa- tion :
"In the early settlement of this county a few of the new comers sowed Bluestem and Little Club in the fall. Both being spring wheats their efforts resulted disastrously, either in a poor stand or having to be reseeded. About 1894 or 1895 a small acreage was seeded to Michigan Bronze or Martin Amber. This vari- ety shattered easily, even to the extent of one- half the crop, thus entailing great loss. But the yield served to convince the farmers that winter wheat raising would be profitable, providing that varieties which do not shatter could be ob- tained.
"In the fall of 1896 the late Hon. D. Buch- anan purchased a car load of Jones' Red Winter Fife to be used as seed by himself and neigh .. bors. The result was very satisfactory and this wheat has become a standard variety, though closely followed by Shoe Peg. There are numerous other varieties, but these two now are the most generally raised, being hardy and good yielders. To be successful in winter wheat raising the ground should be well plowed not less than six inches deep, early in the spring, harrowed frequently during the sum- mer to retain moisture and prevent the growth of weeds; then seeded in September, thus giv- ing the plant ample time to make a suitable growth and stool out in the fall. Not less than 50 or 60 pounds of good, clean seed should be sown per acre. There is, practically, no dan- ger of winter wheat winter-killing in this coun- try, provided it has come up and stooled in the fall. The raising of winter wheat has several advantages; notably, the seeding can be done in the fall when the farmer is not crowded with his work, thus enabling him to get at his sum- mer fallowing earlier in the spring, and which should always be done as early as possible. The grain ripens from ten to thirty days earlier, getting it out of the way of much hot weather."
794
HISTORY OF THE BIG BEND COUNTRY.
Concerning the topographical and geologi- cal conditions of Adams county the work from which we have quoted continues :
"To the eastward of the Big Bend of the Columbia the plain rises slowly from an eleva- tion of five or six hundred feet at the river to 2,000 feet at the eastern boundary of the state. The plain is crossed here and there by aban- doned river courses known as coulees, which are of various depths. A portion of the state geographical report regarding the Columbia Lava Plain will be of interest :
"'About the Miocene Tertiary period, as far as we know, this great region was com- paratively a low plain, with occasional high hills, especially upon the eastern borders, near the present Idaho line. It is to be presumed that the rocks comprising this plain were com- posed largely of the same material as those of the Cascades, lying to the northward and west- ward. Within the floor of this old plain great fissures were formed at different places, and through these masses of molten rock came from the depths below and flowed out in great sheets. This molten rock, upon cooling was of a black color and of a variety known as basalt. The rock was in such a highly molten condition that from each fissure the lava flowed many miles before cooling and coming to a standstill. After this first great outpouring there came a time of quiesence, the lava cooled upon the surface, and a soil was formed which supported a considerable vegetation. In time, however, there came other flows, the vegeta- tion was largely destroyed, the only remnants remaining being layers of petrified wood and charcoal, now found interbedded with layers of lava. In this fashion, with alternating pe- riods of activity and times of quiet, the great lava plains of the Columbia were formed.'
"This explains the geological peculiarity of a region unlike any other, and answers the numerous questions propounded by strangers upon their arrival in Adams county."
October 24, 1902, the Ritsville Times said :
"We might mention here that Professor W. J. Sutton, south of Ritzville, threshed last year 47,000 bushels from 1,280 acres; Mr. J. G. Bennett threshed 50 bushels per acre from 420 acres; Mr. W. C. Reeder threshed from 240 acres 10,800 bushels. These large yields are not given as an average, but simply to show what Adams county soil will do when properly cultivated and scientifically farmed. The fol- lowing gentlemen who have lived in Adams county from 18 to 22 years, Messrs. William Mckay, W. C. Reeder, Philip A. Grub, James Turner and many others say they have never known a failure of crops in this county, and also say that the soil produces better now than it did years ago. However, there are two rea- sons for this fact; first, that while it has been proven that 25 bushels of wheat to the acre can be grown without any rain whatever during the summer the yield is larger if more moisture falls, and that it is an acknowledged fact that, as the country settles up, and with the planting of more trees, the rainfall increases, and the rainfall now is considerably greater than it was twenty or even ten years ago; and, second, that the farmers have about abandoned the old method of seeding on the stubble and raising what is known as volunteer wheat, they are tilling the soil better and farming on a more scientific basis, and naturally as this continues to increase the acreage yields will grow nearer to what is considered now phenomenal yields."
For many years the bunch grass which grew luxuriantly and bounteously, attracted the stockmen, and herds of cattle, horses and sheep roamed over the country. Gradually the home- steader made inroads, cut off the browsing plains and fenced up the grass, until now the big stockman is no more. Many farmers own small herds of cattle or horses which thrive on the pasture lands. The present people of Adams county are a land-holding class, and large land owners. The inhabitants who have been here any length of time appreciate the value of this land. The first comers secured free government
795
HISTORY OF THE BIG BEND COUNTRY.
land, as did all until such land was exhausted. Then the farmers began buying the railroad grant land, and increased their farming oper- ations. Farms from 640 to 1,280 acres are common, and farms of 2,000 or more are not infrequent. A man can handle as much as is his ability to handle men and horses. They plow with steam and gang plows, harrow with multiple harrows; sow with a string of extra wide drills, and reap with headers and steam threshers, or massive, combined harvesters.
But these large land holdings must grad- ually be broken up and thus make room for more settlers. The scarcity and trouble with labor every years limits one man's operations. Many farmers have made enough to end their lives in ease and are retiring. More will fol- low. Cultivated lands are thus continually on the market and the average holdings per farmer are gradually being reduced.
Following are the shipments of wheat from Adams county points during the year 1902 : Harrison, 156,300 bushels; Iona, 146,000; Ritzville, 1,100,000; Paha, 150,000; Lind, 600,000; Cunningham, 110,000; Washtucna, 500,000 ; Hatton, 283,000.
Says the Ritsville Times of October 24, 1902 :
"Stock-raising is not carried on here as ex- tensively as it is in some other. portions of the state, but at the same time every facility for the raising of stock on a moderate scale is offered. The favorable climate, the luxuriant and nutri- tious grasses, which abound in the unsettled portions of the county, upon which a limited number of stock will range, feed and fatten the year round, are appreciated by many. How- ever, there are large numbers of our farmers just beginning to turn their attention more to blooded stock, there having been the last sea- son quite a few registered animals brought in from other places and disposed of in this sec- tion. The assessor's books for 1903 have listed the live stock of Adams county as follows:
Horses, 12,415; cattle, 10,041 ; sheep, 28,736; hogs, 4,453."
In the early settlement of this county it was thought that only the most hardy fruits would grow in this climate. Consequently only ap- ples of this variety were planted. Many could be found then who would say that it was time and money thrown away to plant any kinds of fruit, but gradually, appreciating the effect of the Japan ocean current upon all the northwest, west of the Rocky Mountains, and taking ad- vantage of the experience of those who had ex- perimented in a small way, the farmers began to plant a larger variety of fruit, until now it is a demonstrated fact that apples, prunes, plums, pears, hardy peaches and all kinds of small fruits yield prolifically, and for flavor, as well as size, Adams county apples can challenge the world. Resultant from these facts the num- ber of orchards have increased in number and size. Another advantage in this section is that it is free from ravages of injurious pests, and there is no necessity for spraying and other watchfulness so necessary in most fruit coun- tries. It is a question of only a short time when this county will export this line of produce in large quantities, as the mining districts of northern Idaho, Washington and British Col- umbia offer the best markets in the world.
Concerning the subject of irrigation-a most important one, by the way-a writer in one of the Adams county papers says :
"The scheme of a ditch from the Palouse river down Washtucna coulee originated be- tween 25 and 30 years ago, when Uncle Jim Kennedy and Hans Neise, then partners in the stock business, talked of bringing water down for the use of their animals. An investigation proved that by reason of expense the plan was not feasible. In the early '90s R. F. Wells, a Tacoma capitalist, was interested in the project, and in 1892 employed Mr. C. T. Booth to run a survey. The returns were satisfactory, and Joshua Pierce, also of Tacoma, was drawn into
796
HISTORY OF THE BIG BEND COUNTRY.
the scheme and went to Philadelphia and was successful in floating $60,000 worth of bonds to buy 10,000 acres of land along the route. Actual construction began in April, 1893. King & Company, of Tacoma, took the contract to complete the ditch and flumes down to the sum- mit. By fall they had practically completed the excavation work and most of the fluming and had built a rat-trap dam. This dam was an expensive part of the work, and was poorly built, and as soon as completed washed out. This discouragement forced King & Company to throw up their contract. The period of 'hard times' then set in and it was not until 1897 that the company was reorganized and an- other contract was let to E. C. Burlingame, who practically completed the ditch and put in the dam which now stands. However, he met with reverses and the following spring threw up his contract, and the company took the business in hand and placed Mr. C. T. Booth in charge of the work. During the next three years, more or less, water was brought down, but the discovery was finally made that, owing to the character of the ground, the ditch would not be a success unless cemented or sanded, and at this point the company balked and threw up the whole business, and the prop- erty has lain idle to this date."
In April, 1904, Edwin T. Coman, of Col- fax, and William Huntly, of Endicott, pur- chased the entire holdings of the Palouse Ditch Company for $60,000 and made preparations to put it in operation. About 1892 an irriga- tion canal extending about twenty miles through the Washtucna valley was almost completed. The "panic" of 1893 prevented its completion and operation. Nine or ten years later the project was again taken up by a company and an attempt made to put about 5,000 acres under water. A government survey has now been completed to irrigate land in this vicinity and before long the Washtucna country will, doubt- less, become known as a great irrigation coun- try.
About eight miles west of Hatton, Adams county, there is almost an inexhaustible supply of silica. Ten years ago this was mined for shipment to eastern markets, but owing to the advance in freight rates the mining was dis- continued. At the mill silica brings from $25 to $35 per ton. The silica of Adams county is 96 per cent. pure-the purest of any in the world. Recently the mine has been put in working order again and occasionally a ship- ment is made to the pottery and glass plants. The mine is owned by John Hunner, of Spo- kane. A company known as the Silver Polish Company, composed of Hatton business men, has been formed to manufacture a polish, the principal ingredient of which is silica. The officers of this company are Otis L. Algoe, president ; J. F. Dealy, secretary ; H. R.Ochel- tree, treasurer ; M. C. Munger, W. C. Smith, directors.
In discussing recently the advantages of Adams county Mr. O. R. Holcomb, a prominent attorney, said :
"A person driving out through the country for the first time in almost any direction in Adams county, would be most agreeably aston- ished at the evidences of thrift and comfort on every hand. He would almost be compelled to believe that he was in the midst of one of the oldest settled and most populous communities instead of in one of the newest and sparsely settled. In the sections that have been settled for fifteen or sixteen years, he would find large, commodious houses, barns and granaries, thrifty orchards, wells with wind mills that force the water to the barn and into the house. In the more newly settled neighborhoods he would find houses that would compare exceed- ingly favorably with the houses that have ex- isted for a generation in Iowa and Illinois. He would see nothing but fat, sleek horses and cattle. He would see large church buildings and commodious school houses. * * * We have no 'confidence game' to work on un- suspecting people. We have no boom. We
NORI
LOADING A TRAIN FROM THE FARMERS' WAREHOUSE, LIND, ADAMS COUNTY.
797
HISTORY OF THE BIG BEND COUNTRY.
have hoed our own row for a score of years, and one can come to Adams county, or stay away, as he pleases. If any come we want only the honest, energetic, intelligent and active to come. We have no room here for the shiftless, lazy, or dishonest dregs of the east. Our so- ciety and environments are good and we wish them to remain so. We spend very little com- paratively, for a county of 6,000 inhabitants, feeding prisoners or paupers, and those we do feed are generally transients, and we wish them to keep it so. Of course, the poor but honest and energetic are always welcome, and their opportunities will be improved by coming here, both by natural conditions, and the treat- ment of our 'people."
Concerning diversified farming the book, "Adams County," published by the Ritzville Chamber of Commerce, says :
"While the phenomenal success of wheat has proved it to be the grain best adapted to Adams county, our climate and soil are well fitted for the growth of any of the crops com- mon to the Central West. Corn has always given very satisfactory results to those who have raised it. The cool nights, which are such a pleasant feature of the summer, lessen the growth of the stalk, and the yield per acre, but it always matures and is raised with very little trouble. Many farmers plant corn on the . early plowed summer fallowed land which would otherwise be idle during the year, and they almost always report a good crop with the soil in the best condition for wheat the follow- ing season.
"Potatoes have always been a staple crop, surer even, than wheat, and yielding from 50 to 100 bushels per acre. They are grown very easily, mature early and can be harvested any time before Christmas. Of late years the mar- ket has been more uniform and exports of po- tatoes are a leading item with many of our mer- chants. Barley grows as easily as wheat and sells well for feed and export. On summer fallow ground it is especially prolific, matur-
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