Illustrated history of Stevens, Ferry, Okanogan and Chelan counties, state of Washington, Part 116

Author:
Publication date: 1904
Publisher: Spokane, Wash. : Western History
Number of Pages: 992

USA > Washington > Chelan County > Illustrated history of Stevens, Ferry, Okanogan and Chelan counties, state of Washington > Part 116
USA > Washington > Ferry County > Illustrated history of Stevens, Ferry, Okanogan and Chelan counties, state of Washington > Part 116
USA > Washington > Okanogan County > Illustrated history of Stevens, Ferry, Okanogan and Chelan counties, state of Washington > Part 116
USA > Washington > Stevens County > Illustrated history of Stevens, Ferry, Okanogan and Chelan counties, state of Washington > Part 116

Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).

Wright's Peak, itself bearing a small glacier, I have looked off upon a region where they might be counted by the score. Some of the central mountains seem to be completely cov- ered with ice and snow, except for the aiguilles which pierce through. Although moist condi- tions still prevail, it is probable that we are wit- nessing a period of slow retreat."

Another of Washington's wonders is the Wenatchee valley. It is situated in the geo- graphical center of the state. The foot-hills of the Cascade range are hugged by its western limits; the eastern portion of the valley is bi-sected by the Columbia. Roars and rushes the Wenatchee river, piercing the giant clefts `of snow-capped mountains, until, gathering volume from its tributaries, it bursts through the famous Tumwater gorge, ten miles in length, and enters the low-lying valley. Wind- ing to and fro from west to east it intersects the valley, joining forces with the Columbia just above the prosperous and eligible town of We- natchee. Some thirty miles in length is this valley, varying in width from one to five miles. Ranges of hills are to the north and south aver- aging 2,000 feet in height. The north range is a divide between the fruit belts of the We- natchee Valley and the Big Bend Country. This section was named in honor of the old Chief Wenatchee, long since passed over to the happy hunting ground. He left a sun-scorched, barren waste, relieved only by the foaming wat- ers that bear his name. Could he return he would gaze upon luxuriant orchards, produc- tive ranches, comfortable homes and all the in- dices of modern civilization, its luxuries, its culture and its intelligence. Before him would be spread successive acres of peerless fruit trees, interspersed by fields of clover or alfalfa, vividly, brightly green. In the language of the Seattle Commonwealth :

"Did the old ruler of this now flourishing domain seek to investigate more minutely the why and wherefore of these marvels he would observe, trickling rows of growing fruit trees,

695

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

and percolating the green masses of the mead- ows tiny streamlets of life-giving fluid, and en- lightenment would follow. For it is water, guided from its natural channels in the higher ground by the hand of man that has wrought this wonderous change; it is irrigation, the wizard of the west, that has forced the arid desert to supply mankind with the choicest gifts at nature's disposal. By its means thousands of acres of tillable soil are 'flourishing like a green bay tree.' "

Between the years 1890 to 1892 an at- tempt was made to form an irrigation district under what was known as the "Wright Law." This measure authorized the formation of irri- gation districts and taxation of all property within the limits of the districts to pay for the work of construction and maintenance. C. B. Reed, of Rock Island, was a prominent factor in this project, and acquired the name of "Irri- gation Reed." Until the district was formed he continued to earnestly agitate the matter. A test of the Wright law having been made in the courts it was decided to be unconstitutional and the enterprise was abandoned. Several thousands of dollars had been expended in the survey, and this preliminary survey is, practic- ally, the same upon which is run the eminently successful "High Line Ditch," Later Mr. Reed formed the Lake Irrigation Company, for the purpose of irrigating his own and a few neigh- boring farms. This proved a successful under- taking and Mr. Reed has profited greatly thereby.

Throughout the Wenatchee Valley the problem of irrigation is being rapidly worked to a successful conclusion. Much has been said and written about the Wenatchee Canal, com- pleted in October, 1903. Its waters will be poured lavishly over every acre of dry land in the now famous valley, thus realizing the fond- est hopes of early settlers who have never abandoned faith in the ultimate completion of the "High Line Ditch." Of this enterprise the Coast Magasine of October, 1902, said :

"This canal is about thirty miles in length. The intake will be located on the north side of the Wenatchee river, opposite Peshastin Creek. The waterway will continue along the north side of the Wenatchee until it reaches a point one and one-half miles above the mouth of that stream, where it crosses the river in a wooden stave pipe, forty-two inches in diameter and one and one-half miles long. It waters 2,000 acres on the north side, but after crossing the Wenat- chee river supplies water to over 5,000 acres of most fertile land. This achievement is the con- sumation of years of labor. About twenty years ago Philip Miller, one of the earliest set- tlers in this locality, built the first irrigation ditch of any size. He took the waters out of the Quiltocchien Creek, about two miles west of Wenatchee. The remaining waters of the Quiltocchien and those of the Stemilt were then taken up by the farmers who saw the great ad- vantage gained by irrigation. With these operations the limit of cheap irrigation was reached.

In 1896 Arthur Gunn and J. A. Shotwell built a small irrigation ditch, taking water out of the Wenatchee river eight miles west of the town. Convinced that the results obtained would sustain the undertaking a company was formed called the Wenatchee Waterpower Company, and this organization continued the canal to reach the fertile acres along the Colum- bia, in, and surrounding Wenatchee. Three miles from this town they built a bridge across the Wenatchee and conveyed the waters to the south side of the river. This canal cost $45,000 and supplied water to about one thousand acres. Land which had been worth from $10 to $50 an acre prior to the completion at once reached the value of from $200 to $500 an acre. In 1893 a preliminary survey was made by C. F. B. Haskell, locating engineer of the Great Northern Railway Company, for the location of a practical line for the building of a higher ditch, but nothing was done toward its con- struction so high was the estimated cost. In

696.

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

1896 some farmers and others, among whom were J. A. Shotwell, A. Gunn, A. L. Burbank, H. S. Shotwell, Taylor Hughes, Mr. Benjamin Chapman, J. B. Holmes and others, organized the North Wenatchee Canal Company, and be- gan construction work which was contemplated to cover about one thousand acres on Warner's Flat, opposite and below the town of Mission. Under the direction of Harvey Shotwell, now of the city engineering department of Seattle, $10,000 worth of construction work was done, but the canal still remained uncompleted. In the meantime, until 1901, the project was kept alive and the right of way retained for the canal through the efforts of Arthur Gunn, of Wenat- chee.

"In 1901 L. McLean succeeded in interest- ing W. T. Clark, of North Yakima, who had just finished building the Selah-Moxie canal in the Yakima Valley. Upon visiting the locality and looking over the situation he at once saw the utility of the undertaking and set about or- ganizing the Wenatchee Canal Company. He received the hearty support of the Wenatchee Chamber of Commerce and a committee com- posed of L. McLean, F. M. Sheble, L. V. Wells, M. Horan, Z. A. Lanham and Arthur Gunn was appointed. These gentlemen saw each of the land owners along whose land the ditch would pass, and secured contracts from them to take water from the new company and pay upon the completion of the ditch the sums of from $50 to $60 per acre for the privilege. This secured money for the cost of construction. In June, 1902, active operations were begun and have progressed constantly since. The work was completed in October, 1903.

"The greatest cost of irrigation ditch build- ing has been reached in this instance, but not- withstanding that fact. through the enterprise and activity of the residents and those interested it has been undertaken and now is an assured fact. During the preliminary negotiation, in order to secure the building of this ditch, the Wenatchee Development Company, Thomas

Burke, president, and T. N. Haller, vice-presi- dent, offered to give the Wenatchee Canal Company one-half their land holdings in the Wenatchee Valley. Later, in order to secure completion of the canal, they, in addition, gave a bonus of $6,000 cash, to be delivered when the work was completed. In fact the Wenatchee Development Company has stood in the breach and from the first, seeing the great advantage to be gained, has been a staunch and strong supporter of the enterprise.

"The new ditch is known as the 'High Line Ditch'; the former as the 'Low Line.' 'The High Line Ditch' will put 7,000 acres of land under water in addition to the territory now covered by the 'Low Line.'"

In the heart of the Cascade Mountains, in Chelan county, lies Lake Wenatchee. Seven miles long is this lovely body of water which is fed by the Little Wenatchee and White rivers, and drained by the Wenatchee river proper. Snow-capped peaks and wooded slopes surround its crystal waters and inlets stocked with an abundance of gamy trout. Through- out the entire northwest there is no more fav- orable spot for a summer outing. From the town of Wenatchee it is reached by the Great Northern Railway to Nason Creek, thence by wagon, a distance of seven miles to the lake. For pleasure seekers and hunters the Hotel Bates affords ample accommodations and ex- cellent service.

Of the beautiful Wenatchee Valley the Washington State Bureau of Statistics, Agri- culture and Immigration makes mention as follows :

"In the Wenatchee we find a district com- paratively small in size, and yet of such beauty and productiveness that it might be called the Washington 'Vale of Cashmere.' The Wenat- chee river rises in a lake of the same name in the heart of stupenduous mountains snow- capped the year round. It descends in a streak of foam into a narrow canyon, whence it is- 'sues clear and sparkling upon a smiling valley,

WENATCHEE FRUIT

VE GROWEVERYTHING

WANATCHEE FRUIT EXHIBIT AT THE SPOKANE FRUIT FAIR IN 1902.

THEY CAME FROM LAKE CHELAN.

PAINTED ROCKS NEAR THE HEAD OF LAKE CHELAN.

697

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

thirty miles long and from one to five miles wide. The soil, air, water, and an indefinable something-call it the genii of the place, which imparts the last touches of perfection-seem to have marked the Wenatchee for the natural home of fruits and vegetables. If one region more than another can be called the 'jewel,' that title must probably be accorded to Wenatchee. A great variety of fruits is produced here.

"Though the Wenatchee does not at all approach the Yakima in aggregate production, yet in proportion to area it surpasses its big sis- ter. When we consider the comparatively small area of this region and its population of only 3,500, with the further fact that in addition to the fruit great quantities of hay are produced, we can form some conception of the great pro- ductiveness of the Wenatchee Valley."

Of Tumwater Canyon the Wenatchee Ad- vance of December, 1902, says :

"Tumwater Canyon is one of the wildest and most picturesque spots in this part of the country. Through a narrow canyon rush the waters of the Wenatchee, with majestic moun- tains towering thousands of feet on either side. In a few places the river is quiet for a hundred yards or so, and any one may cross with comparative safety, but if he should be drawn over the falls death is sure to overtake him."

On the Wenatchee river, four miles distant from the town, is Paradise Valley. There is no prettier picture to be found anywhere when the orchards are loaded with fruit and the al- falfa fields arrayed in their rich green habili- ments.

Of the Wenatchee Fish Hatchery the 1902 report of the State Fish Commission says :

"The hatchery is situated in the northwest quarter of the northwest quarter of section 16, township 25, north, range 17 east, on the We- natchee river, and tributary to the Columbia river, and about one and one-third miles from Chiwaukum, a Great Northern railway station. The state has erected a fine hatchery building

and residence, but until recently no steps had ever been taken to secure any title to the land, but I am now in negotiation with the state land commissioner for a long-term lease of the prem- ises. This plant was erected during the summer of 1899. Owing to the location of this hatch- ery the cost of maintenance is greater than at any other hatchery of the same capacity. The extreme cold winters, heavy snows, difficulty in controlling the river and the isolation of the plant makes it an expensive one to operate. However, good work has been done and this season the hatchery will be filled. The cost of maintaining this hatchery from November 1, 1901, to November 1, 1902, was $3,825.80. This was more than any one of the other nine- teen hatcheries in the state. Output for season of 1902, 7,934,560, the largest output in the Columbia river district and next to the largest in the state."

Although not widely advertised, one of the most important portions of Chelan county is the Entiat Valley, so named from the stream that rises far back in the heart of the Cascades among the giant glaciers from which outflow two other streams, the Agnes and Railroad Creek. Fifty or sixty miles long is the Entiat Valley, extending northwest and southeast, the river flowing into the Columbia from the west about twenty miles north of Wenatchee. Won- derfully fertile is this valley, though narrow, and it is well settled on each bank of the river for a distance of twenty-five miles. Fruits, vegetables, cereals, stock, lumber, mining, etc., are the varied resources of this productive valley. To Seattle and other points many car-loads of fruit are annually shipped from this section. Each succeeding year the area of or- chard culture is rapidly extended. The prin- cipal stock-feed raised is alfalfa, and under irrigation conditions the weight of this crop is almost incredible. The incalculable value of systematic irrigation is well illustrated in this vicinity. It is, practically, useless to attempt to make any description of crop without water.

698

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

With the valuable auxiliary aid of this life- giving fluid all is smooth and successful. The principal supply reservoir for the purpose of irrigation here is the Entiat river. It is rapid from its source until it gains the Columbia, af- fording sufficient fall to make the supply easily utilized, and on each side of the valley, some- times many feet up the mountain side, may be seen the water ditches and flumes bearing limpid streams of pure, cold water throughout the nu- merous farms. Thus is made possible the cul- tivation of almost everything known to semi- tropical husbandry. At the mouth of Entiat river the elevation is about 700 feet above sea level. An industry beginning to figure prom- inently in the economy of the Entiat Valley is bee culture. At present quite a large number of residents have stands of bee hives, and the output of honey is first-class in every respect. Although better results are obtained as more clover is sown, bees are doing well at present.

There are numerous points for fruit ship- ment in Chelan county along the Columbia river, yet it nearly all passes through Wenat- chee. From the latter point the fruit shipments by express from June I to October 1, 1903, were 122,350 packages, aggregating 2,798,576 pounds. The amount shipped by freight from Wenatchee during the same period was 121,- 020 packages or 3,345,000 pounds, a grand to- tal of 232 cars, and 6,142,576 pounds.

Wright's Peak is not visible from the head of Lake Chelan, as it is situated some distance south by west. In all its majesty and gran- deur it may be seen after several hours of ar- duous climbing over the first divide of the Ste- hekin river. The Chelan Leader says concern- ing this peak :

"Rev. and Mrs. W. L. Dawson, the former pastor of the First Congregational church of Chelan, in 1895, visited the peak and named it. Mr. and Mrs. Dawson started out one morn- ing bright and early, well supplied with food, a pair of blankets, hob-nailed shoes, alpen stocks, etc., and managed after a day of ardu-

ous toil and difficulty to reach an altitude of 10,000 feet, and they describe the view of mountain scenery witnessed from that point to be sublime beyond all description. Castle Rock could be plainly seen, and from as accurate cal- cualtion as it was possible to make the yet un- named mountain on which they were, which ran up rock spires still 500 feet higher than they were able to ascend, was at least that much higher than Castle Rock. Having determined it to be the very highest peak in the vicinity, they proceeded to christen it 'Wright's Peak,' in honor of that eminent scholar and scientist, G. F. Wright, professor of glaciology in Ober- lin college, and author of 'The Ice Age in North America.' They noticed another moun- tain whose top seemed shattered into great rock splinters, pointing starward, like giant fingers, and to this they gave the name of 'Splinter Peak.'"

"Cascades rival the mighty Alps." This sentence is from an interview given by Julian E. Itter, the eminent artist, to the Everett Daily Herald. The Herald contiues :

"Mr. Itter, who is an artist of note, has been assigned by the St. Louis Fair commis- sion to the work of transferring to canvas some of Washington's choicest scenery, which will be placed on exhibition in the Washington building at the St. Louis Exposition. In open- ing his interview Mr. Itter pronounced the Chelan country the Switzerland of America, and says that 'words fail to describe the gran- deur of the scenery to be found there. There are miles and miles of cloud piercing, snow- capped peaks; wide, snow white glaciers' stretch away from you until they seem to melt into the blue of the sky, veritable crystal pavement leading, it would seem, into the very gate of heaven; there are towering cliffs of castellated rocks, yawning chasms, peaceful lakes, wild torrents leaping a thousand feet, great forests and rich river valleys. No coun- try in the world equals it.

" 'Standing on one peak you look upon an

699

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

ocean of mountains stretching north and south and east and west. You see Mount Baker and Mount Ranier in all their grandeur, Glacier Peak and a hundred other mountains loom be- fore you; you look north into Canada and south into Oregon; Puget Sound is unrolled before you like a map, while beyond it you see the silvery Olympics. There is no reason,' con- tinues Mr. Itter 'why Washington should not become the scenic resort of not only America, but also the world. This state surpasses the Yosemite; it excels Switzerland; the world has only to learn these facts and tourists will flock to the state.' "

On the rim of Horseshoe Basin, on the headwaters of Stehekin river, above Lake Chelan, the highest pinnacle is Mount Sahale. Mounts Baker, Ranier, (or Tacoma), Glacier Peak and several hundred, snow-crowned heights may be seen from this point, as well as the shimmering waters of Puget Sound. The valley of the Columbia and the Big Bend coun- try to the east are also spread before the gaze. Horseshoe Basin is a vast conservatory of waterfalls. Here there are twenty-one of them averaging about 1,000 feet in height. In a single stream these waters unite, flowing through a narrow cleft in the rocks. A giant boulder has fallen into the cleft, and this, di- viding the stream into nearly equal parts, forms Twin Falls.

Up the sombre-valley of the Stehekin river, four miles, we come to Rainbow Falls, on Boul- der creek. Nowhere in the northwest is there a more picturesque waterfall. Down through the valley comes rushing the Stehekin like a mill-race-nay, not so torpid as a mill-race -bank-full in places, and at others backing up into sloughs and high water channels. Half a mile from the Stehekin are Rainbow Falls, and the roar of the waters accentuate their im- mediate presence long before they burst upon our sight. Gaining them we stand in a cloud of ascending mist. Slightly disappointing is the first view. Hidden away behind a slight

bend in the canyon is the main fall, and then you observe a sharp plunge of twenty feet, a wild, tumultous cascade, with a total fall of about forty feet, and then the view is shut out by another rocky wall. Up the slippery bank we clamber, coming out upon a mighty snow bank like a glacier. It hangs over a deep, dauk pool of coal black water. A small river is above us which leaps suddenly and desperately over a precipice, as if intent on suicide. Here it makes an unbroken plunge of 250 feet. Sound and mist ; reverbrating sound and soaking mist, are in the air, and up out of the dark canyon comes a mighty wind whispering and search- ing, penetrating one's bones with an icy chill. Before it is driven the spray, sheer and cut- ting, right into our faces. It is like a blizzard driving before it sharp, icy pellets. And yet the sun shines brightly on the cliffs, and on the gathering mist as it trickles down into the seams and crevices may be traced the colors of the rainbow-colors unfading, while the sun contributes to the mise en scene.

"Racing Rainbow" is the name given by the Indians to this beautiful fall, and the me- taphor is not inapt. At their fairest and most majestic stage are these falls in the spring and early summer. To the volume of a mountain brook dwarf these streams in midsummer, and the great fall of 250 feet is broken in 'two. From Field's hotel the distance to the Rain- bow Falls is four miles, over a fair carriage road. Up the valley from Stehekin to Horse- shoe Basin the road passes within a few rods of it.

Goat Mountain, about half way up Lake Chelan, is a stupendous wall, extending twelve miles, with scarcely a crack into which one might thrust a boat-prow, or up which the most agile cougar could wriggle his sinuous body. Here the wild goats stand on juts of rock and watch pigmy man plying his oar far below. And yet fortunate shots have reached a goat from the waters of the lake, and the victim has come hurtling down to reward the hunter.

700

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

Of the wild country lying back from Lake Chelan but little, comparatively, is known. Foaming torrents tear through the deeper can- yons, baffling the curious encroachment of man. Undisturbed roam the red deer and here the cougar makes his lair in safety; here the shaggy bear has yet to be startled by the rifle's crack, and from these cliffs and crags the mountain goat has yet to be driven by the en- thusiastic Nimrod. It is stated authentically that with the first advent of settlers in this vi- cinity one could row in Lake Chelan through- out the day without losing sight of these bands of wild goats.

Between Chelan and Pateros, and about eight miles from the former town, the road passes a natural ice cave, in which ice is to be found any month in the year. After climbing the mountain side about 500 feet above the Columbia river, which now looks like a narrow ribbon, one loses sight of the river as he passes into a lofty canyon, where the disintegrating forces of time have so rent and thrown the splintered granite rocks that the sides of the canyon are lined and floored with talus. But very few boulders are found here. The road then winds its devious way among the giant fragments of the mountain top, while firs and pines struggle for a footing. A mile or so of this and the canyon widens a little and occa- sionally a fertile spot appears. On the left, about seventy-five feet below the road, a small lake of gem-like emerald green invites one's admiration and excites surprise. A sparkling spring bubbles at about three feet above the south side of the lake, but the lake itself is so impregnated with copper, arsenic, etc., that it is undrinkable. Beyond the lake the ravine widens with a high, steep and barren cliff on the right which is flanked almost to its summit with a solid pile of talus-large, sharp, rugged and irregular, at the base of which are a few struggling firs and pines.

About five hundred feet from this road and a few feet above it some kindly pilgrim has

painted an obscure cross upon one of these rocks, which marks the entrance to the ice cave. Otherwise a stranger would find some difficulty in locating it, there being no road, track or un- usual appearance to guide one. No water is visible, no sound of water is audible, but there is a perceptibly cold breeze coming from its depths and the crannies, which are at the bot- tom, are full of wonderfully clear and solid ice, which appears to maintain a certain height on the floor and renews itself as it is taken away. It still remains a problem whence come the water and the cold winds.

The present Chelan county is bounded on the north, or rather on the northeast by a line running, on survey, from the southeast corner of Whatcom county to a point a few miles be- low Pateros, on the Columbia river; on the east by the Columbia ; on the south by Kittitas county, and on the west by Skagit, Snohomish, and a small portion of King counties. Its geological formation will be be found generally described in the chapter devoted to "Mines and Mining." The superficial area of Chelan county is 3,070 square miles. The county seat is Wenatchee.

Need help finding more records? Try our genealogical records directory which has more than 1 million sources to help you more easily locate the available records.

Illustrated history of Stevens, Ferry, Okanogan and Chelan counties, state of Washington, Part 116

Author: Publication date: 1904 Publisher: Spokane, Wash. : Western History Number of Pages: 992

Author:
Publication date: 1904
Publisher: Spokane, Wash. : Western History
Number of Pages: 992