Illustrated history of Stevens, Ferry, Okanogan and Chelan counties, state of Washington, Part 90

Author:
Publication date: 1904
Publisher: Spokane, Wash. : Western History
Number of Pages: 992

USA > Washington > Chelan County > Illustrated history of Stevens, Ferry, Okanogan and Chelan counties, state of Washington > Part 90
USA > Washington > Ferry County > Illustrated history of Stevens, Ferry, Okanogan and Chelan counties, state of Washington > Part 90
USA > Washington > Okanogan County > Illustrated history of Stevens, Ferry, Okanogan and Chelan counties, state of Washington > Part 90
USA > Washington > Stevens County > Illustrated history of Stevens, Ferry, Okanogan and Chelan counties, state of Washington > Part 90

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HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

strike it it will not be on account of lack of perseverance. A short distance beyond, and near Wanicutt lake, a charming little body of water a couple of miles long, and from a quar- ter to half a mile wide, is Golden. Golden is not a metropolis, but the day has been when it was a pretty swift little place. There are in- dications of a shortage of population just now, but when the surrounding mines are once again in operation the town will again hum. The site is well chosen. It is a pretty location, perfectly level and of ample dimensions for a city. A mile away the cough of steam and the thump of the stamps of the Tribune mill indicates that something is going on in the vicinity. The stamp mill of the Spokane mine, now silent and deserted, is located a few hundred yards north of the town. A couple of miles further on is Blue Lake, a mountain pool of beautiful blue, but deceptive in appearance, as the fluid is about as palatable as soap suds, it being strong- ly inpregnated with alkali. Down a long grade the road winds into the valley. Another stretch of a few miles and the road crosses the Simil- kameen river at a ford, and the town of Oro- ville that has been in view since leaving the hill is reached. It is situated on the east bank of the Similkameen river, only a short distance from where that river mingles its waters with those of the Okanogan. The land between the two rivers is perfectly flat and only ten or twelve feet above the present low stage of water."

North of Conconully, south of Loomis and about twenty miles west of the Okanogan is the beautiful Sinlahekin valley, one of the fairest tracts in Okanogan county. Of the "Meeting of the Waters" Tom Moore has sung :

"There is not in the wide world a valley so sweet, As that vale in whose bosom the bright waters meet."

Thrown into poetical diction this descrip- tion aptly applies to the valley of the Sinlahe- kin. Nature, lavish in blending the topography of Okanogan into scenic beauiy, presents no

fairer landscape east of the Cascade range. From any portion of the town of Loomis its beauties may be contemplated, and were its rare features skillfully delineated by an artist the eye could scarcely gaze upon a lovelier can- vased picture. Wedged in between parallel ranges of corrugated elevations, this valley is charming at any season of the year. Through its lowest level a pretty stream of limpid water ripples its oddly sinuous way, to be joined by a jolly, boisterous brook, really the larger of the two streams, that leaps and tumbles down its rocky bed from high up among the giant piles that form Mt. Chapacca. Like the catar- act of Lodore it bounds and leaps in the initial stages of its journey to the Sinlahekin, assum- ing a more decorous and milder mood just be- fore it mingles with the staid and stately cur- rent that drains the vale through which it flows, only a short distance from the point where it loses its identity in the bosom of the lake. The lustrous tints of autumn enhance its beauty ; it is attractive at all seasons of the year, even when the fingers of frost have clutched its gurgling throat and stifled the babble of its torrential course. From certain elevations a view of the Sinlahekin valley may be gained for miles. The water course stands out boldly marked, winding its crooked way, embowered in brilliant yellow foliage, streaked here and there with green, brown and red, as though Nature in weaving this varigrated ribbon had mixed with the woof the warp of the rainbow. Quaint homesteads nestle in the umbrageous foliage surrounded by stretches of open glebe and pastures green. These are dotted with tran- quilly grazing cattle. From either side steep, stony mountains rear their bald or timber-cov- ered pates, high above the plain, with gnarled and knotty pines, cedars and firs clinging ten- aciously to the scanty, arid soil which contrib- utes to their sturdy, storm-defying life. Oc- casionally a more ambitious pinnacle is silvered with scintillating snow. To the north glitter the undulating waters of Palmer Lake. Of this

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HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

beautiful section of the country Mr. Dallam writes :

"From Loomis the way extends for two miles north at the very foot of Palmer Moun- tain. On one side the beetling crags and grassy slopes of the mountain hang above the road or stretch far up into the zenith, making one's legs fairly ache merely to imagine the exertion necessary to top its summit. Its face is as varied as the disposition of a wayward beauty, and the constantly changing aspect adds fresh interest at every turning. Here the brown rocks shoot up for many feet, a sheer precipice, with huge fragments poising like living things as if preparing for a mighty spring upon the unwary passer-by. Here a brawny pine, cling- ing with loving fondness to a barren stone, waving its branches in apparent glee far over the heads of modest neighbors, leaving the ga- zer to wonder by what strange freak the ger- minating seed ever fell where it did, and creat- ing a greater wonder, without the sign of soil in sight, that it ever found a foothold in the roots that anchored it to the spot. Again wide slides conspicuously marked the face of the eminence, commencing far up the side at the apex of a triangle and spreading widely out as it reached the level, including stones of all sizes, as though the spirit giants of the hills had put their evil-doers upon the chain-gang and given them the whole mountain to clear away.

"The elements have been at work, and the corroding hand of time has made its imprint upon the sturdy mount as it does upon the work of short-lived man. Rain, snow, ice and heat have crumbled rocks and flung down trees and tinted the ledges varied hues. The desecrating hand of man has not been idle. Here and there along the broken, undulating and indented face of the cliffs stare out the mouthis of tunnels and prospect holes, black, threatening eyes that mark the places where in quest of gain the hard iron has punctured the massive rock. Further on old Palmer reaches out one claw to leave it on the ice-cold waters of the lake, and hard

was the task to divorce the rock and water and make a place upon which to travel. And every spring this lake, believing not in general utility, and the right of way thereby, swells in its pride of pristine beauty and reaches far up to embrace the unrequiting rock and for days dashes pretty wavelets above the passageway.

"The lake itself is a dainty gem; its moun- tain setting outlined on its peaceful bosom. In shape it is like the moon at the first quarter, and fills a space of several miles in length and from a hundred yards to a mile in width. It is like liquid crystal, of the blue that in a woman's eye touches the chord of love, and were it set down somewhere on European soil the æsthetic tourist, with a weakness for rapture, would go into ecstacy over its attractive beauties. As it is, presumably, 'tis but a pond where the pil- grim prospector quenches his burning thirst- for it is cold the summer through-the Indian pitches his wigwam, and the rolliking young- ster, with a rude and shapeless twig casts out his line to lure the finny inhabitants to a frying- pan.

But the attraction of the drive is not con- fined to the ridge of stone that crawls down to bar the way on the east. On the other hand spreads out the valley of the babbling Sinlahe- kin, narrow but fertile, every foot of which is occupied by the thrifty settler, or is set apart by benign and open-handed government for the benefit of the favored redman. The stream that is fed by the springs and snows and glaciers far up in the mountain fastness, is cold and clear and abounds in trout. Its banks are fringed with a heavy growth of trees and underbrush bearing a light green foliage. The farms that have been cleared by years of laborious toil are limited in extent, but exceedingly fertile. and where the providence of the occupant has planted fruits the orchards are thrifty and bear rich and abundant harvests. The calm and peace and apparent comfort that surround these houses, humble though they be in appearance, have no counterpart in the wide, wide land, and.

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as the traveler gazes upon the scene he could wish for no pleasanter place and feels that he could lay aside the burdens of life and, forget- ting the riot and display, the struggles, the faults and failures, the deceit and hypocrisy and the shallowness of the outside world, peace- fully dream away the few remaining years al- loted to him."

The Puritan settlers of New England were called upon to hew and mold into form their homes in the bleak Atlantic wilderness. In a far more salubrious climate, yet surrounded by similar difficulties, the earlier settlers of Okanogan county were destined to the same la- borious employment. That was the rule, yet the exceptions were, and still are, many. There are garden spots scattered here and there throughout the country the soil of which is pro- ductive beyond the most sanguine expectations. They have been discovered as mines have been discovered; their development has awakened surprise.

One of these sections is Pogue Flat, named for its first settler. It comprises an almost level table land lying adjacent to, and parallel with the Okanogan river. From north to south its extreme length is about ten miles; its aver- age width four miles; about twenty-five thou- sand acres in one body of land. For many years following the first settlement of Okano- gan county this section was considered abso- lutely worthless for agricultural purposes. Prospective settlers were not shown the tract with an idea of locating them within what was thought to be its arid limits. On the contrary they were taken to claims in the hills where there was plenty of excellent water and much timber, and about one-third as much arable land to the acre. But early in 1900 one or two small "shacks" made their appearance on the "flat," and outside the comparatively small tract of land which is accessible to irrigation from Salmon Creek. The following summer a few other rude habitations were added and some fencing was done. In 1902 small patches

of sod were broken and, as more of an experi- ment than otherwise, the first crop was sown on Pogue Flat. Results obtained surprised everyone. The reputation of Pogue Flat as an arable and productive tract of land-a tract long considered arid and sterile-was thor- oughly established. And this is but one case in many where land once deemed worthless in Okanogan county has been found satisfactory in every respect. Still this illustration is not particularly exceptional; it is in line with the agricultural history of the transmontane coun- try.

Agricultural methods in this section do not materially differ from those of other localities. "There appears," says David Griffiths, assist- ant in charge of range investigations, as pre- pared for the United States Department of Agriculture, "to be no established time for seed- ing. Often the seed is scattered on the snow. Sometimes it is sown in the fall and at others in the spring, apparently with equally good re- sults. Along the Okanogan river and Cow Creek many fields of timothy are seen which were established in this way. Some fields yield as much as two and one-half tons per acre. Along the Okanogan and other streams in north central Washington there is a great deal of brush, especially willow, alder and wild rose. The practice is to cut and grub these out, burn the brush, and scatter timothy and red-top seed at the first favorable opportunity. Of course much more seed is required when the land is not plowed and it usually takes several years to secure a good stand. Along Cow Creek some meadows established twenty years ago on sod are in a reasonably good condition to-day, al- though they have been cut for hay and pastured during the winter every year."

Quite a noticable feature in the Methow Valley, and one that is coming into greater prominence yearly, is dairying. Throughout various portions of this beautiful valley the in- dustry is prosecuted quite successfully. Up to the present time dairying has been conducted

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HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

on a small scale, yet sufficiently extensive to afford ample proof that, under more favorable conditions, it will be well adapted to this local- ity. Still, owing to the present limited market for dairy products, by reason of a woeful lack of rail transportation, extensive operations along this line are not warranted. However, despite the crude and inconvenient methods of transportation shipments of butter were made from the Methow Valley to the coast market during the winter of 1902-03 which netted pro- ducers twenty-eight cents per pound.

Okanogan County Fruit Inspector N. Stone has furnished the following statistics showing the amount of fruits grown in the years 1902 and 1903. The late spring of 1903 prevented an increased acreage, and consequently there is a slight decrease in production compared with that of 1902 :

1902

1903

Apples

23.035

22,060

Pears

3,416

3,438

Peaches

16,740

15,680

Prunes and plums

8,947

8,455

Cherries

2,623

2,564

Apricots

1,332

1,276

Grapes

1,028

1,045

Berries of all kinds

7,725

8,556

The number of acres of fruit in 1901 was 725 acres, and in 1903, 964 acres. The above calculation is for standard boxes of the differ- ent kinds of fruits as they are packed for ship- ping.

Of all the beautiful streams that contribute their crystal waters to the seething, whirling Columbia, the Methow river, debouching at Pateros, is the finest, and the famous Methow Valley is a succession of charming scenes. The Methow's source is the summit of the Cascades from whence it emerges a tiny creek, unob- trusive and humble as Tennyson's "Brook," destined to "flow on forever." But in its course it assumes more importance, receiving the waters of Squaw, Texas, Gold, Libby, Twisp and Lost rivers ; and all of these irrigate farms, orchards and pastures which in richness

cannot be surpassed. Here the nights are warm; the summer season long and the delight- ful combination of wind and sunshine contrib- ute to bring fruit to the perfection of luscious- ness. Cereals and vegetables do equally well and as nutritious bunch grass and the wild lupin abound on every hand the outlook for remunerative dairying is most favorable.

The valley of the Okanogan river embraces fully one-third of the county. It is rich in mineral deposits; rich in agricultural possi- bilities and present fruition. Its scenic beauties are marvels to the tourist; there is scarcely a single view point from which' an attractive landscape is not spread before the eye. Thus the Okanogan valley appeals at once to the artist and the utilitarian. Throughout its en- tire length Okanogan valley contains an area of very rich soil, aggregating between 75,000 and 100,000 acres. While transportation fa- cilities are insignificant, the various mines sup- ply a market and at remunerative prices. This transportation question is, at present, problem- atical. A number of surveys have been made. Undoubtedly competing railway systems are watching each other. The new Bellingham Bay & British Columbia railroad, now in pro- cess of construction, will probably cross the Okanogan river at its confluence with the Col- umbia. At present steamers from Wenatchee ply the Columbia to the mouth of the Okanogan at all seasons of the year ; going as far up the Okanogan as Riverside during the summer. At Brewster (at the mouth of the Okanogan), and Riverside, stages connect on routes inter- lacing the entire county. The irrigation prob- lem has not been neglected. The government has had surveyors in the field engaged upon the project. Their latest reports indicate that water from two main branches of Salmon river, which unite below Conconully, will be directed into Green and Brown lakes for distribution through thousands of acres of land in the val- leys. It is claimed that this project is assured ; that work will be commenced so soon as the

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HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

surveys are perfected. The Indians on the reservation have already been alloted their por- tions of the land ; the remainder has only to be declared open by congress before which the bill is now pending.

To the east and west of Okanogan valley are mountain ranges. To the westward, across the Methow, the Cascade range, from the most northern height, as far as they extend south- ward, are yielding their hoards of hidden wealth to the miner and capitalist, abounding as they do in minerals of almost every descrip- tion, though mainly in' copper, silver, lead, gold, coal and iron. The Cascades are most picturesque and inspiring. Not to any great extent, comparatively, have these mountains been prospected, and with the exception of short intervals the whole range may be called virgin territory where man has never trod; the widest areas of nature's solitude; the haunt of big game. What they conceal in mineral wealth is a matter of speculation ; a question for the geo- logist and experienced prospector. But within hundreds of square miles the geologist and prospector have never ventured. Such mineral wealth as may be there lies undeveloped owing to absence of transportation. When every county in Washington is gridironed with rail-

roads as is the case in many of the middle west- ern states, these mountain fastnesses may be called upon to yield their treasures to the ex- chequer of the world. But in the adjacent val- leys some of the richest mines in the state have been revealed. Gold quartz has been taken from them assaying as high as $43,000 per ton. They have proved-a revelation to mining men, showing interlines of gold and secretions of nuggets which have set old, seasoned miners aghast at such wonderful deposits of values. Blocks of telluride quartz have been taken from these districts a description of whose richness sounds fabulous. Ere many years have passed the Cascades will be yielding their wealth to hundreds of thousands of people. Old time California prospectors are not at all backward in making this sweeping prophetic declaration.

Swiftly moving streams from the tinkling brooklet to the impetuous mountain torrent dash down the canyons in impatient haste un- til they gain the lower levels, becoming there more sluggish, and swelling into slowly flow- ing rivers. And this is where farsighted and sagacious farmers have located many of the best ranches in Washington. Fruits, vegetables and cereals adapted to the temperate zone grow luxuriantly in this favored region.

CHAPTER V.

CITIES AND TOWNS.

Conconully, the county seat of Okanogan county, is situated on Conconully creek, a branch of the Salmon river, which it joins a short distance south of the town. Conconully is about one hundred miles north of We- natchee, Chelan county. It is beautifully lo- cated in the midst of one of the most fertile agricultural and richest mining districts in the

county. Millions of feet of timber grow throughout the surounding hills, sufficient to supply the demands of many generations to come. The capital of Okanogan county lies at the foot of Conconully lake, a fine sheet of water concerning which there are many Indian traditions, mysterious and supernatural.

One of them is as follows: Previous to the

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HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

spring of 1888 the town was known as Salmon City .. In March, 1888, a mass meeting was held for the purpose of rechristening the town, and at this convention it was decided to call it "Conconully," an euphonious name of Indian lineage. In the dialect of the natives the word "Conconully" means "evil spirit," and the na- tives had applied it to the lake near this town. It was asserted by them that lake was inhabited by a huge and ferocious monster which was the author of a host of ills and a variety of material and spiritual troubles. Certain white men have gone so far as to corroborate this story by the assertion that they have seen it rear its hideous head above the placid waters of Conconully lake, and shake a long, heavy, sea- green mane in a threatening manner. Still, sea captains and others have witnessed antics of sea serpents, and far too many of them have seen a miscellaneous variety of varied hued snakes ashore.

Returning to the practical side of the Con- conullly lake question, it has been seriously considered by the United States government as a reservoir site in which to conserve the waters of the creeks and mountain streams during the early spring freshets for the pur- pose of irrigating the large adjacent territory which the government contemplates putting under the ditch at an early period. However, for agricultural purposes the precipitation is sufficient to meet all present requirements. The rainfall in 1900 was 15.68 inches; in 1901 12.61 inches, and during the fiscal year past it reached 19.60 inches. During these years the mean temperature was 46.66, 44.95 and 44.18 respectively. The altitude of Conconully is 2,240 feet above sea level.

The town of Conconully came into exist- ence in 1886. The discovery of auriferous de- posits in that part of Stevens, which a short time afterward became Okanogan county, in 1866, and the rush of prospectors to the new district contributed to the establishment of many new towns and camps, and Conconully,

or Salmon City, was the first one of them in the county. In its immediate vicinity the country was known far and wide as the " rich Salmon River district." In the spring of 1886 came the first prospectors, and they pitched their tents on the site of the present Conconully. These were George Forester and a man named Pierce, who located the Homestake and Tough Nut claims ; Billy McDaniels, who staked out the Salmon river properties; Jimmy Robertson, Dick Malone and George Gubser, who located the John Arthur, Washington and Daisy claims; Charles Holmes, who annexed the Columbia ; "Tenas George" Runnels, who took up the Lady of the Lake, and Henry Lawrence who located the Lone Star and Golden Crown. Daniel Boone also prospected in this vicinity, but did not successfully locate any properties. Most of these claims were located in May, 1886. During the summer the prospectors lived in tents where now stands Conconully, passing a large portion of their time prospecting in the hills.

In October, when the nights grew colder, they erected cabins to replace the tents and went into winter quarters. The following spring more people came to the camp, and a store was opened by a man named Boardman. He built a cabin and freighted in a small stock of goods. The succeeding fall the second store was established by the Buckingham boys. In the spring of 1888 there was an immense rush to the new camp. The town quickly gained a population of 500 people. New business en- terprises made their appearance and cabins dot- ted the valleys and hillsides. In July, 1888. the Okanogan Outlook was established, and the camp had a lively newspaper to chronicle its varied passing events. After repeated unsuc- cessful efforts, in August, 1888, the citizens succeeded in securing a postoffice. I. W. Spence, who at that period was proprietor of a store, became postmaster.

There is but little to record concerning the town of Conconully during the following two

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HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

years. It continued to increase in population and in the number of its business enterprises. Charles Hermann, who came here in 1887, is one of the earliest settlers in the community. The excellent business facilities then offered by the place attracted his attention, as well as the picturesque and healthful location, protected from the cold winter winds by the surrounding hills with their rich grazing and agricultural lands. Mr. Hermann began in the mercantile business in a small way, and has amassed a for- tune, including store, bank stock, cattle, and mining and milling interests.

The first religious services held in Concon- ully were on Sunday, March 16, 1890, at the school house. They were conducted by the Rev. Mr. Fate. At the close of the meeting a Sabbath school was organized, and the follow- ing officers elected : Superintendent, F. W. Moore ; assistant superintendent, William Shu- felt; treasurer, Miss Jessie Elliott ; secretary, Charles Hermann; librarian, Mrs. Went- worth; chorist, Mrs. William Shufelt. Rev. A. W. Trine is at present pastor of the Metho- dist church.

The building season commencing in the spring of 1891 was unusually active in Con- conully. Two steam saw mills began work with a large number of orders to fill for lum- ber. A number of residences and business houses were constructed and many others pro- jected to be erected so soon as lumber could be secured from the mills. Among the Conconully improvements on foot in April, 1891, were the following: Tullock & McCaskle completed an 18x30 one-story building on the corner of Main and Galena streets, to be used as a drug store. This building was well arranged, sub- stantial and complete. The occupants moved into their new quarters May I. L. S. Bald- win erected a residence building which for size and beauty of design surpassed, at that period, anything of the kind in Okanogan county. It was a two-story edifice, cottage style, contain- ing six rooms, three closets and a pantry. The

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Illustrated history of Stevens, Ferry, Okanogan and Chelan counties, state of Washington, Part 90

Author: Publication date: 1904 Publisher: Spokane, Wash. : Western History Number of Pages: 992

Author:
Publication date: 1904
Publisher: Spokane, Wash. : Western History
Number of Pages: 992