Illustrated history of Stevens, Ferry, Okanogan and Chelan counties, state of Washington, Part 19

Author:
Publication date: 1904
Publisher: Spokane, Wash. : Western History
Number of Pages: 992

USA > Washington > Chelan County > Illustrated history of Stevens, Ferry, Okanogan and Chelan counties, state of Washington > Part 19
USA > Washington > Ferry County > Illustrated history of Stevens, Ferry, Okanogan and Chelan counties, state of Washington > Part 19
USA > Washington > Okanogan County > Illustrated history of Stevens, Ferry, Okanogan and Chelan counties, state of Washington > Part 19
USA > Washington > Stevens County > Illustrated history of Stevens, Ferry, Okanogan and Chelan counties, state of Washington > Part 19

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"When I first took up what is now Belle- view Fruit Farm sixteen years ago I had no idea of developing it to the splendid place you now see it is. But I noticed how prolific was the growth of berries, fruits, watermelons, to- matoes, etc., and it occurred to me that fruit trees might do well. I set out at first one hun- dred deciduous bearing trees of different varie- ties. They began to bear at the end of three years, and most of them thrived exceedingly. Since that time I have continued planting and experimenting as to the kind of fruits and the varieties of those kinds that would do best in

this soil and climate. You can see the result. Peaches grow well on sheltered bench land well removed from water or in the black gravelly soil or sandy loam along the Columbia river. But you must have the hardy and early varie- ties. I succeeded best with Hale's Early, Crof- fin's Early, Alexander, Malta and Wagner. In pears the Bartlett is not hardy enough, but the Buer De Angoa and Flemish Beauty are per- fectly hardy and do well. I have one tree of the latter that never failed in eleven years. The Beauty is almost equal to the Bartlett. In winter pears the Winter Mellis and Buer Easter can be grown here with great success. Nearly all kinds of prunes do well, but I would recom- mend the Italian, Hungarian, German and French. I found all kinds of plums safe except Kelsey's Japan. In apricots the Russian varie- ties do excellently well, while the Morepark, though the best in the market, does not. The peach and golden are also too tender. All apples will grow well, but the Ben Davis is the best for the market, and is a hardy winter apple. The Wallbridge and Baldwin I found not so hardy. Delaware, Red Winter, Wine- sap, Baily's and Talmund's Sweet are O. K.

"Low lands should be avoided, but bench lands removed from water will grow the fruits I have mentioned, and there is no hill so high in Stevens county but that there is moisture enough in it to grow fruit profitably if well cultivated. I want to say that the soil should be well stirred with a harrow or cultivator every ten days or less. The reason for this is that the pores of the earth expand and open in from seven to ten days and unless stirred the heat of the sun draws out the moisture. This is the most important point in cultivating dry soil. Regarding the relative quality of fruits grown here and elsewhere, other sections grow larger fruits, but Stevens county fruits are much sweeter flavored. The best flavored fruit is always grown on dry soil. Our apples and prunes are the best in the world. Our prunes are superior bearers, and don't dry down as

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HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

much as others and go into market as the best. As to bearing, all our fruits bear as early as anywhere in the world, pears bearing in two years and apples extensively in three."

"The first thing of importance in fruit- growing," said Mr. H. W. Sparks, of Kettle Falls, who has a splendid orchard on the Columbia, two miles south of that city, and who has given the subject of horticulture intelligent study, "is the varieties, location, cultivation and care. Care is the most important, as without care no one can expect to succeed. Variety de- pends on undivided taste and location and intelligent demarkation of the crop as to those grown for revenue and those grown for home use. Every one should have a goodly assort- ment for different seasons and tastes in those grown for the market. The main point is a hardy variety for the main crop and good ship- pers, those that will bear handling."

Concerning the transportation facilities of Stevens county, it is no exaggeration to say that they are excellent, when the large size of the territory is taken into consideration. Re- garding this important factor in the upbuilding of a county the Statesman-Index says :

"The Spokane Falls & Northern Railroad with more than one hundred and twenty miles of main line in the county, is doing much to assist in its progression and prosperity. It has recently been a heavy contributor. to the Kettle Falls and Republic road, the importance of which to this portion of the county it is scarcely necessary to dwell upon. It runs a passenger train with comfortably equipped coaches north and south daily, and it is a very rare occasion when they are not promptly on time. To the annual Spokane Fruit Fair and like events the road always accords a generous rate and in other regards the passenger department of the Spokane Falls & Northern has ever consulted the best interests of our people and afforded them many advantages.

"The southeastern portion of the county is traversed by the Great Northern Railway. This

line affords the settlers of the Calispell and Pend d'Oreille valleys a means of communica- tion with the outside world. Small steamers ply the waters of the Pend d'Oreille river be- tween Newport and Box Canyon, and do a gen- eral freighting and passenger traffic for the convenience of the river settlements. At New- port on the boundary line between Washington and Idaho, the freight and passengers are trans- ferred to the Great Northern railway.

"There are now nearly eleven hundred miles of public highway in the county running in all directions and others are in constant course of construction. The boards of county commis- sioners, realizing the importance of easy means of inter-communication, have been broad- gauged and liberal in their attitude on the im- portant matter of roads, while in no community can there be found more liberal contributors to projects of this nature than the public-spirited business men of Stevens county."

The social conditions of this county have been earnestly and conscientiously considered by Mr. John B. Slater in his valuable work, "Natural Resources of Stevens County." He says :

Stevens county is chiefly settled by an industrious and thrifty class from the northern Mississippi states. A dozen souls will fill the Chinese and colored popula- tion of the county; these classes having at all times in the past been discouraged from coming into the county. On the Colville Indian Reservation are about five hun- dred peaceable Indians, nearly all of whom are actively engaged in the pursuits of farming and stock-raising. The tide of immigration of the white people has, prac- tically, driven the native population to the reservations, and those of the Indian race who are adverse to toil have found their way into the far interior and unin- habited portions of British Columbia.

The society of Stevens county is the very best, and its people take pride in upbuilding its institutions and maintaining them. This fact is attested by the sub- stantial character of the many splendid buildings to be seen on every hand in all the towns, devoted to religious and public school work. There are over one hundred school districts in the county, and in nearly all of them may be seen well built school houses of handsome design. In all the more populous districts the schools are graded, and a superior class of instructors are em- ployed in charge of all educational work. The Catholic,

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HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

Methodist, Congregational, Presbyterian, Adventist, Baptist and a number of other denominational institu- tions are represented. Sunday school work is a leading feature in all settled portions of the county. The old Catholic church, built on a sightly place on the bank of the Columbia river, near Kettle Falls, nearly sixty years ago, is still standing, though it was long since abandoned for a more convenient location at Meyers Falls, where a large cathedral and the mission school for boys and girls are located and are accorded a good patronage. The secret societies have firmly established lodges, among which are the Masonic, Odd Fellows, and K. P., all of which are patronized and are fostered by the best classes. A number of G. A. R. posts have also been established and in many of the country places, as well as in the cities, they have erected large and commodious halls in which the largely decimating heroes of the last great national struggle take refuge in social intercourse and in appropriate exercises com- memorative of their great work.

As well as having a market at hand for everything, Stevens county has everything for a market. Its wealth- producing capacity is circumscribed by no limit. With all it has room for the lumberman. Its forests are largely confined to the mountain districts and along the foot-hills. The timber growth is prolific and well- developed. Pine, fir, spruce and cedar grow in splendid proportions, in endless quantity and of a superior quality. The tamarack trees are now much sought after by builders, and lumber men are led to consider it one of the choicest of timbers for finishing purposes. It possesses the most lasting qualities, and subject to all manner of hard usage and exposure it answers every purpose. It partakes of the finest finish and the highest polish, is not susceptible to expansion and contraction, so commonly complained of in other timbers when ex- posed to the ravages of the elements, and promises, as a hard wood, to supplant the use of oak, ash and maple in the manufacture of all varieties of furniture.

Added to the numerous industrial interests of this county is something in the way of the weirdly picturesque which is a recent discovery, dating in the summer of 1903. This is what is called Gardiner's Cave, and the following de- scription of the same is from the Spokesman- Review, of date September 13, 1903, written by one of a Spokane exploring party who vis- ited it. Investigation by the writer reveals the fact that it is nowise overdrawn :

If you will take a map of Washington, trace the Pend d'Oreille river down to where it passes into British Columbia, get the scale of the map, put your pencil one mile south of the international boundary line

and one mile west of the river, you will have determined almost the exact location of Gardiner Cave, in Stevens. county, Washington. About dne north and ninety miles distant from Spokane, this natural wonder, so far as explored, constitutes the largest cave yet discovered in Washington.

Various and conflicting reports heard about this cave led a number of Spokane men to organize and equip a party to visit and secure some exact data on the subject. The party left Spokane on the morning of the 24th of August, 1903, over the Great Northern railway via Newport, thence by steamer down the Pend d'Oreille to the foot of navigation near Ione, sixty-four miles below Newport, from which point they secured the services of 7. E. Hall, with pack and saddle animals to. make the overland journey. The trail was found to be in fairly good condition overlooking the river the greater part of the way, and the pedometer recorded 24.75 miles between Ione and Gardiner Cave, over a crooked trail. Elevation of Ione 2,000 feet, and at the cave entrance 2,665 feet above tide water. The country is in almost as primitive a state as it was one hundred' years ago, the most noticable indication of civilization being the ruthless waste of the forests; fires having devastated about one half the country to be seen from the trail. Young growth of pine, fir, cedar, tamarack and hemlock, however, if permitted to live, would in a few years reforest a greater part of the burnt area.

From the trail may be seen a mountain to the west which was determined by the United States geological survey, who were re-establishing the international boundary monuments last year, to be over 8,000 feet above sea level. This peak is between six and ten miles from the boundary in Stevens county. It is said that there are several monuments on the south and west slopes of this mountain which have the appearance of aboriginal construction, but limit of time precluded a visit there. Other similar monuments occur at various points, both in Washington and British Columbia not far from the cave. Grouse are plentiful along the entire route, bear and deer abound, seldom disturbed by man, and from indications along the trail the country seems to be the home of many marten and other furred animals. The odoriferous pole cat was the only feline seen by the party, although a congar and a lynx paid the life penalty for being too eager for a taste of civiliza- tion a few days since, and the human-like voice of the- former is often heard in the hills. Trout abound in all the streams, and migratory waterfowl take long rests in the waters of this region in spring and fall. A well' authenticated story is current that a couple of hunters killed over two hundred deer near their camp one winter recently, simply for their hides, yet there are large num- bers remaining in that section.

Arriving at the cave's mouth, which is situated on an easy slope on the east side of a pretentious mountain, at 9:30 o'clock a. m., the party found that the opening is simply a break in the roof of the cave, by which an easy entrance is made with a ladder constructed on:

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HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

the ground. How far upward along the slope of the mountain the cave extends the party did not discover, an obstruction occurring some twenty feet above where a portion of the cave roof fell in. The barometric elevation at the surface was 2,665 feet, and at the floor of the entrance 2,645 feet above sea level. The general course of that part of the cave explored was E. S. E., with a gradual curve toward the east. But one branch of any importance was discovered. The first six hun- dred feet constitutes the most attractive portion of the cave, as below that point mud is found on the floor in- creasing in depth until at the present end the entire cave is coated with an accumulation of natural cement but partially dried, and increasing at the rate of one- eighth of an inch per year. Early in the spring the water, doubtless, fills the entire cave at the lower end, but gradually passes out through small orifices until at this season it entirely disappears and the air becomes clear and pure. By the aid of tools and powder it may be possible to open up chambers still lower down from the present end of the cave, as without doubt the sub- terranean waters finally reach the Pend d'Oreille river, a mile away. Carefully measured from entrance to the lower end of the main cave the total length was found to be 780 feet, with a total loss in elevation from 2,645 to 2,420 feet, or 225 feet, a mean grade of about 34 per cent.

With Ed. Gardiner, the discoverer, in the lead the entire party of seven penetrated the cavern and ex- amined all its side chambers, finding a ball of twine thrown over a difficult passage near the lower end, recorded the date, taking several flash-light photographs, measuring the various chambers and securing other valuable data. This cave has many features of interest and beauty. The first 600 feet is gorgeously draped and festooned with stalactites and stalagmites in many grotesque forms, the former pendant from the ceiling, while the latter rise from the floor, At two points the main passage way is divided by two huge pillars, deli- cately fluted and of rare color, the first of which is about 280 feet from the entrance and the lower one 155 feet further down, while all between, along the sides and ceiling, are stalactites of various lengths.

At two places along the wall are numerous stalactites, which, by striking sharply, produce clear notes which resemble those of a piano. In places the floor is covered with rock forms of white limestone resembling baths, in some of which the water still re- mains clear as crystal. At other places are pillars rising from a few inches to several feet. At one side of this chamber is a wonderful formation resembling a frozen waterfall, near by which is an overhanging canopy with a well-formed seat at the base. This is "The Throne," and from it one can see all the principal beauties of this marvellous "chamber of wonders." The cathedral, to the right and 30 feet below, is frescoed and festooned with glistening gems. Rising from the floor are several fragile columns, on the tops of which the party placed their candles and viewed with pleasure the sublime

effect. Thirty or more feet from the floor of the main hall and directly before the throne, a cluster of cyrstals resembles a huge bunch of grapes.

The gigantic pillar at the upper end of this chamber gives the visitor ample space to pass, but when its twin column at the lower end is reached, one is mutely but firmly reminded that due obeisance must be made in acknowledgment of the beauties just seen before passage will be granted to the depths below. Passage can be obtained here only by prostrating oneself and crawling in, after which one passes through a narrow aisle, ten feet by about four feet wide, for about seventy-five feet, where another hole is reached, through which one must crawl bear-fashion. At 720 feet from the en- trance the only considerable side passage is found at the right running back at an angle from the main cavern some fifty feet, and ending in a circular chamber, the entire passage being about twelve feet high by eight wide.

There is ample evidence that Gardiner Cave, so far as explored by the party, constitutes but a small part of the subterranean chambers and passageways of the im- mediate locality. Points in favor of this assertion are that this cave was penetrated twenty feet above the entrance, where a portion of the roof had caved in, obstructing further observations without some further preliminary manual labor. Circular sinks of the sur- face in various places show that the underlying lime- stone has been removed. A considerable stream gush- ing out of the hill half a mile or more away with an opening above some two by four feet at low water and cut in the limestone adds to the evidence. Streams, which, as springs, gush out of the mountain above, suddenly disappear. The whole mountain so far as examined is limestone, an excellent material in which to look for caves. For ten days or a month's outing this portion of Stevens county offers great opportunity for either pleasure or research.

While it is not within the province of this work to produce an exhaustive or technical treatise on the geology of Stevens county, we may candidly admit that such a division of the book would not prove the least interesting. To the student of this science the geological for- mation of the county is replete with interest offering a wide field for a fascinating investiga- tion. It is considered necessary, however, to glance at the primordial character of this greatly diversified country that others may trace therein the elementary outlines of a vast and comprehensive cosmogony.

The greater portion of eastern Washington is covered by the original "fire-rock," the basalt.

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HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

This dull, uninviting substance meets the eye everywhere, on the bluffs, along the streams and upon the "scab lands." But in Stevens county there occurs a radical transformation. Here we encounter every variety of the secondary rock and in the dykes and veins in them we find almost every known mineral. Among these may be named zinc, antimony, nickel, tin, arsenic, iron, silver and gold. Specimens of one or more of them are obtainable in numerous places throughout the county. Igneous, sedimentary and metamorphic rocks are in abundance everywhere, often thrown together in a confused mass by volcanic action. Of the igneous rocks basalt and porphyry are obtaina- ble, and of sedimentary rocks, sandstone, shale, and limestone are found. All the varieties of limestone are easily procured, carbonate of lime, magnesian limestone and sulphate of lime or gypsum. One variety of gypsum, alabaster of wonderful beauty, rewards the industrious searcher. Of the metamorphic rocks quartzite, marble, syenite, slate, granite, gneiss and mica schist are in surprising abundance. The many varieties of the finest marble in the world have already assumed a prominent position in the commerce of the county and are treated of else- where in extenso. One variety, improperly termed onyx, is said by experts to be the hand- somest and most valuable for decorative pur- poses to be found in any portion of the union. The slate is unequaled anywhere. Pure feld- spar, when decomposed, produces kaolin, a kind of clay. In the southeastern part of Stevens county is found an immense deposit of kaolin which has been experted and pronounced as running in high values. Mineral paint, formed from variously colored clays and ground oil, is an industry in the eastern, or Calispell section of the country, and in the Pend d'Oreille mountains are found huge buttes of pure mica.

So far the coal measures developed are lim- ited. Although there are a number of small deposits, most of them have been burned out

by later volcanic action. While geologists in this locality have been unable to find traces of the northern drift of the glacial period, the Rocky Mountains forming, probably, a barrier against the great glacier that aeons ago over- whelmed so large a portion of this continent, yet everywhere in Stevens county are indubita- ble signs of glacial action. At that period the mountains attained a far greater altitude than at present, and were covered with immense glaciers which plowed out the valleys now thickly populated, and filled them with drifts hundreds of feet in depth. The fossiliferous distribution in this county is not so large as in many other localities. The powerful incinerat- ing heat that crystallized limestone into marble, clay into slate and quartz into quartzite, burned out the greater portion of fossils; yet with a little care quite a fair collection may be made at the present day. In every school district throughout the county a collection of ores and rocks may be accumulated superior to the geological cabinets of many eastern colleges.

In speaking of the topography of the county Mr. L. K. Armstrong, editor of Mining, says : "Between the Columbia and the Colville rivers, with the exception of the narrow valleys along these streams, the country is rough and mountainous in places, reaching an altitude above sea level of more than 6,000 feet and the divide between these streams has an alti- tude of more than 4,500 feet. To the east of the Colville valley and between it and the Pend d' Oreille valley is another mountain range. the highest point of which, Calispell peak, has an altitude of 6,905 feet above sea level, with an average height of the divide between 4,800 and 5,500. East of the Pen d'Oreille river the coun- try is mountainous and rough with about the same altitude as that to the west. All these mountain ranges are well supplied with lateral streams which have formed in many instances quite deep gorges. The mountains rise grad- ually from the valleys, first being the foothills, which gradually merge into the mountains.

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Along the Columbia, however, the bluffs rise more abruptly than they do along most of the streams. The mountain ranges extend in an almost due north and south direction across the county. The following list of elevations of different places over the county will give an idea of the diversified character of the surface :

Locality. Feet.

Addy (1) 1,652

Bossburg (1) 1,385

Calispell Lake (2) .2,110

Calispell Peak (2) 6,905

Chewelah Peak (2) 5,748

Chewelah (I) 1,690

Colville Mountain (2)

5,667

Colville (1) 1,602

International Boundary (I) 1,370

Loon Lake

2,440

Marble (I) 1,486

Mouth of Colville River (2) 1,176

Mouth of Spokane River (2) 1,068

Northport (1)

1,350

Newport (3) 2,121

Springdale (1) .2,100

Stensger's Peak (2) .6,299

Waits Lake (2) 1,816

(1) Elevation by U. S. Geological Survey.

(2) Elevation by the North Transcontinental Survey.

(3) Elevation from the G. N. Railroad.

What is known as the Colville State Fish Hatchery was established in 1900 about one mile from Kettle Falls. In his report for 1902 Fish Commissioner Kershaw said :

"It is erected on state land, of which the de- partment has a lease for five years. It is located about one mile from Kettle Falls, on the Col- ville river, in Stevens county. It was operated in 1901, but only took about 90,000 spawn, and I concluded that the expense of operation would not justify the results obtained, and closed the plant down for the present season. I placed Mr. D. M. Richard in charge, at a nominal salary, with instructions to closely watch the river and report to me the number of salmon that ascended the stream this sea- son, and he reported that he had seen only forty-five salmon so far. I have no doubt that at one time this was a fine salmon stream, but

a freshet they had a few years ago changed the entire condition of the river. Instead of emptying its waters down the Columbia river as in former years, it now discharges its waters up stream. The channel of the Columbia river has changed from the east to the west side, and this, together with the freshet, has left the sprawning grounds in the river covered with large boulders, and has completely destroyed whatever natural conditions favorable for spawning ever existed."

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Illustrated history of Stevens, Ferry, Okanogan and Chelan counties, state of Washington, Part 19

Author: Publication date: 1904 Publisher: Spokane, Wash. : Western History Number of Pages: 992

Author:
Publication date: 1904
Publisher: Spokane, Wash. : Western History
Number of Pages: 992