USA > Wisconsin > Rock County > The History of Rock County, Wisconsin: Its Early Settlement, Growth, Development, Resources, Etc. > Part 51
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The same may be said of the States of Illinois and Wisconsin-two of the greatest grain producing States in the Union ; for their population, with farms and improvements equal to any
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in any part of the United States. Michigan,, Illinois and Wisconsin now contain a greater population than did the old thirteen States when we contended with England for our inde- pendence.
This, reader, is truly a progressive age; within the last thirty-seven years, the three States herein named have grown into existence, and now contain nearly three millions of people.
What flattering inducements are still held out here for the hardy sons of New England ; plenty of the best lands under the sun are yet left unoccupied, and only want industry and hardy hands to find plenty of gold, and without the fatigue and expense of a journey to Cali- fornia for this precious metal.
The valley of Rock River is the most beautiful and most productive country I have ever seen in any part of the United States, from the head-waters of the river to its entrance with the Mississippi. But this I do not wish to say in disparagement of thousands of acres in Illi- nois and Wisconsin that only want the husbandman with his team and plow to produce a rich harvest.
Chicago, in 1818, was only a garrison, commanded by Maj. Baker, with no settlements near ; now it contains probably a population of over 70,000, probably 10,000 more than can be num- bered in the old city of Albany. In June, 1818, from the garrison at Chicago to Twin Rivers, 170 miles on the west shore of Lake Michigan, there was but one white man resident-he an Indian trader. Since then, Chicago has become what it is-a large city ; Kenosha, Racine, Milwaukee and Sheboygan, all incorporated cities ; Port Washington, Manitowoc, Twin Rivers, and several other towns-all important business places-have grown into existence, and now probably contain, all together, 150,000 souls ; and the wide uncultivated waste of country then lying between the western shore of Lake Michigan and the Mississippi River, numbers now over two millions of inhabitants.
When I look back over the last thirty-seven years of my life, I can hardly realize the wonderful changes that have taken place under my observation in this country, and still much greater may be expected for the next thirty years. What flattering inducements are still held out for emigration to this almost boundless empire.
III-ISAAC T. SMITH, MILTON, 1855.
It was on the 26th of November, 1835, that I first set foot in Wisconsin. The weather was extremely cold, with one foot of snow upon the ground. I was in company with some families, consisting of women and small children, some of the latter but a few months old. As we were compelled to camp out upon the ground, our first lesson of Wisconsin pioneering was not the most agreeable. However, we made the best of it. I made a claim two miles north of Skunk Grove, in Racine County, and there spent the winter. In a few days after my arrival, I became acquainted with Henry F. Janes, and, as his name is so intimately connected with the early as well as the subsequent history of Janesville, a brief description of the inan may not be entirely uninteresting.
Mr. Janes was a man full six feet and two inches in height, and well proportioned, of rather dark complexion, good natured, free and easy in conversation, fond of company, especially of a political chum, and an old pioneer. He never tired in hearing or telling a good story, and had a fund of incidents connected with the first settlements and late wars. He was among the first settlers of Racine County, and made his claim about four miles north of Skunk Grove, before the land was surveyed, and found, afterward, that a part of his claim was on the school section (No. 16), and fearing he might be troubled to get a title, he concluded to go farther west. He was of a roving disposition, and liked the excitement incident to a new country, and not much inclined to work himself, but to plan for others. He never was wanting for a good excuse to change his location. Accordingly, during the winter, he fitted out a horse team, and, with a small party, started west for Rock River. On arriving at Muskego Lake, they found the outlet frozen over, and, in attempting to cross, the ice broke, letting in the team, and, in getting the horses out, he hurt one of them, so that its lip became paralyzed and hung down, and it
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refused to eat, or could not, and. of course, soon died. Janes gave the name of " Lip Creek " to the stream. This accident, and other discouraging circumstances, caused the party to return. This name of " Lip Creek," as applied to the outlet of Muskego Lake, was retained for a long time.
The next time they started, they concluded not to take a team ; but Janes and a man named Harness commenced their journey to Rock River. and, as they were told by the Indian traders that it was but sixty miles, they concluded they would pack through with a single horse. The weather was extremely cold, and there being no trail to follow, their progress was very fatiguing, and when they arrived at what is now called Mount Zion [in the present town of Harmony ]. and seeing the prairie stretching away to the west until bounded by the horizon. and supposing that Rock River was still west of that, and their provisions likely to fail, they became discouraged, and returned back for a further supply of food.
Again they started with full supplies. and reached Rock River in safety. Janes traveled about for some time, and, in consequence of cold weather and being exposed as one must be in camp- ing out, together with the glare of the snow, his eyes became so affected that he could scarcely see at all. But on the 15th of January [February ]. 1836, he made his claim where the city of Janesville now stands. Many have given him great credit for his foresight in making his loca- tion ; but in the absence of any " sight," it was probably "more by hit than good wit."
Returning to the Skunk Grove settlement, Janes patiently or impatiently awaited the proper time to commence the removal of his family to Rock River. The winter of 1835-36 was very cold, and the spring late and backward, so that he had to wait till the middle of May before grass was large enough for stock to live upon. I was engaged to accompany him, to assist in driving the cattle. We started on Sunday, May 15, 1836. The company consisted of Janes and family, Richard Miller, Levi Harness, a Mr. Beasley and myself. The first six miles were passed without difficulty. Then came a storm of rain and hail, with so strong a wind that we were obliged to halt with the family wagon in the leeward of the one that was.loaded with provisions and farming tools, or get capsized. In a short time, the storm passed on, and so did our company. The first night we camped among a few scattering trees on Section 3. Township 3 north, Range 20 east, and flattered ourselves that we should enjoy a good night's rest ; but in this we were disappointed.
May 16 .- Rained nearly all night. The most of the family slept in their wagon, but some of the men and myself had a bed on the ground ; and the first that I knew of the rain was on waking in the night and finding water under and around me, until I was half covered, and more coming down. I could not stand that, although lying down, so concluded to try it sitting up in one of the wagons that was loaded with goods, and covered with cotton cloth-the canvas being so low that I could not sit upright without my head coming in contact with it. when the water would come through in streams on my head and neck.
I found, in the morning, that I was not an " upright man," however much I might strive to be, for my neck was stiff at an angle of forty-five degrees for several days. However, my misfortune did not impede our journey west, and we made slow progress, as the sloughs were soft, and a great many of them : and in one place. in following along near the outlet of Mu- kego Lake, we were obliged to have ropes to hold the wagons from turning over. Some time after noon, we forded the Fox River, at what is now called Rochester. There was but one family there at the time. that of a Mr. [Levi] Godfrey. IIe came out to see us, and seemed quite pleased. as it was the first train of the season, and although we were going to settle on Rock River, he was very glad he should have neighbors so near him. He also cheered us by saying that our road would be much better, and less -wet marshes. We drove about four miles and camped at Honey Creek, on Section 1. Township 3 north, of Range 18 east. We had thus far found a few wagon tracks to guide us. but no wagons had ever yet been west of Godfrey's
May 17 .- Spent some time this morning in searching for a good place to ford the stream. as it was quite deep from the recent rain. At last we selected a place, removed some of the turf with our spades at the steep banks, and hitched all the cattle to one wagon, and started.
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he cattle had but little difficulty until the fore-wheels struck the steep bank, when the rear am of old stags on the tongue came to their knees and fell down flat, when the lash was plied to the forward ones, who pulled them out, wagon and all. As the load raised the bank, e old short-horns righted, but looked rather hard after their morning exercise. By repeating e operation, we finally got all safely over. We followed on or near a section line which we ok at Rochester, and so had no difficulty as to the course, as we knew where the line would rike an Indian trail that led to Rock River, where we wished to go.
At noon to-day, we turned a little to the left, and went down a steep hill to get to water id grass. Janes told us he believed this stream was called Poc-a-chee-woc. I think it must ive been Sugar Creek. In raising the hill after dinner, one of the leading cattle balked, and ien came the tug of war. This was the first time I had seen Janes angry ; but the way he did ake the fur fly, was a caution to all balky oxen. After we left that place, our route lay south f where West Troy now is; and all went well until we came to a large marsh, southwest of 'roy, where it was about one mile across, as our course lay. Janes had crossed it when frozen 1 winter, and thought he would find no difficulty in doing so now ; and it extended some miles outh, and, as he supposed, north also. We got along quite well for three-fourths of the way, nd had begun to flatter ourselves that we would not stick, when the old mare, on which the Idest boy rode, began to scrabble and to show signs of going under. The old lady, Mrs. anes, called to the boy to jump off, and the old man, to stick on, which last he obeyed ; and he old nag stuck fast, with all legs out of sight. We stopped all the teams and loose stock, eld a council, and examined the mud.
We first took the young colt some two rods ahead, and then I held it so as to entice the old nare to use her utmost exertion to get to it. Janes and Beasley put a strap under her and lifted n that, while Harness and Miller helped what they could, and repeating the effort a dozen times, t length brought old Betty on terra firma. We then unyoked the old short-horns, as they.were o heavy they could not draw without miring down, and left them to get through as best they ould. and put all of the rest to one wagon and took it through, but not over. We took off the arrels of flour and pork from the wagon and left them on the marsh until we got the wagons to ry ground; and then, with the sideboards laid down, we rolled the barrels some forty rods over he mire to hard ground. Not an ox escaped miring down, except the balky one, and he would tot pull, so all he had to do was to carry his own weight. If there was but one ox down at a ime, we would not stop, but pulled him out by the head. After crossing the marsh, we camped or the night on Section 34, Township 4 north, Range 17 east. I have since learned that Othni nd Alexander Beardsley were then encamped, in hearing of our cattle-bells, in search of claims, nd located theirs at West Troy.
May 18 .- This morning left camp cheerfully, and with assurance that we would not be roubled with marshes. About noon came to Turtle Creek, where we let the teams drink and eed, as they would get no more water until we got to Rock River. Here we became aware that ven an old pioneer sometimes forgot the needful, as we had no empty keg to carry water in for ooking our supper and breakfast, as well as for drink during the next twenty-four hours or more. The only thing that could be spared was the vessel with twenty gallons of maple-sugar vinegar n it. So the vinegar was poured upon the sandy shore of Turtle Creek, and we filled it with rater and started again ; and, after a few miles travel, we came on the far-famed Rock Prairie, he paradise of the West ; and certainly I never saw it when it looked so fine as at that time. The prairie grass was now green and largely interspersed with flowers. There was not the mark f & plow to be seen, and but very few wagon-tracks ; not a house nor a fence, nor anything to how that civilized man had ever been there. The country was alone in its glorious grandeur. We drove a few miles and encamped near where John A. Fletcher, of Johnstown, since located is residence.
May 19 .- Started this morning very early, as the teams would have to reach the river before they could drink. We used most of the water, but when we were three miles from the iver one hog we were driving gave out with fatigue and thirst. We dug a place in the prairie,
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and poured the last of the water in it, and let the hog wallow in it awhile, which served greatly to revive him, and then we went on. When near the Spring Brook, about a mile below where the city [Janesville] now is, the cattle that were loose started on a run for drink ; and the first water they came to was in deep holes, with perpendicular banks, and the cattle plunged all under, to the great danger of drowning a part of them. They at length satisfied their thirst, and got out in safety. We stopped awhile at the house of Samuel St. John, fed our teams and took our dinner ; and he went with us to show us the best way to get to the house of Mr. Janes, which he had previously built upon his claim. Spring Brook was very much swollen by rain, and in many places was eight or ten feet deep. We had to go some distance up the valley of the creek toward Black Hawk Grove, cross over, and follow up a ravine to get on the high land, and then down another ravine to the river. We found the log cabin which had been raised and covered with " shakes " by men that Janes had hired to do it for him, as when he was previously here his eyes were sore, and he could not work himself. The cabin was made of logs not very straight, and not chinked. It had no door, and was not well calculated to keep out the rain, as we had abundance of evidence in a few hours; for there was an uncommonly severe thunder-storm and hard wind, and the best we could do was to hold a blanket at the door as well as we could, and put the wagon-boards down to keep out the water.
There were four families then near and on what are now the city limits of Janesville. Samuel St. John lived nearly a mile below where Milwaukee street bridge now stands, and Dr. James Heath's house stood a little above the Monterey stone quarry on the south side of the river ; the house of William Holmes, Sr., was on the west side, and John Holmes' cabin on the east side, near where the old brickyard was, above the steam saw-mill. I think these were all of the families then in Wisconsin, in the Rock River Valley.
Arriving here on the 19th of May, on the next day we started the breaking-plow.
On Sunday, the 22d, I was at St. John's, and there saw Mr. Caleb Blodgett and some others that were looking claims, and while there a Frenchman, of whom they had hired some horses, came for them, as they had been retained beyond the time engaged, and he became uneasy about his pony stock. Seeing the ponies feeding on the flat, he caught them before com- ing to the house; and when he came, he was very angry ; but a little soft sawder and the milk of human kindness put all right; and the old man told us much about the country and the Black Hawk war, as he was here all through it, and said that he and Gen. Scott made the treaty at Rock Island. Blodgett bought the old man's claim where Beloit now stands; he had pre- viously moved to the foot of Lake Koshkonong, where I afterward was well acquainted with him. He often told me that he was an interpreter in making the treaty spoken of. I think he spelled his name Joseph Thebalt, but he was called Tebo, or Thiebeau.
I stopped a few days with Mr. Janes, and made a claim on the farm since owned by Mrs. Strunk and children, and built a cabin to secure it in my absence. On the 25th of May, I started, in company with Beasley, to return to Racine. We provided ourselves with food for dinner, but not for supper, as we expected to reach Rochester by night. We filled a pint flask with water and put it in our pocket, thinking it would last to Turtle Creek, twenty miles; but, with fast walking, we soon got thirsty and drank it, and after that allayed our thirst with the water we found in the cattle tracks along our route. We were not able to reach our "neigh- bor's " house at Fox River, and consequently were compelled to camp out, without food, fire or blanket. We had one overcoat between us.
We were awakened next morning without being summoned by that modern contrivance, called a gong, and, before sunrise, forded Honey Creek, waist deep, and in good time for break- fast arrived at neighbor Godfrey's, where we discussed his hospitalities in a manner to flatter the ambition of the most fastidious cook in the country. At this place, we met the families of Maj. Meacham, Mr. Spoor, and two others, on their way to Troy. After breakfast, and a short chat with the new-comers, we started on ; as there was no boat, we were obliged to ford the river, which was much deeper than when we crossed it on our way out. It was our only chance. I placed my journal in my hat to keep it dry, not being then troubled with money
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(DECEASED ) JANESVILLE
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with which to take the same precaution, and with my overcoat rolled up and placed upon my shoulder, taking a long stick with which to steady myself, we took to the water, like true believers in hydropathy. Beasley was a man above the usual size, and he succeeded well, but I not being well built for wading, should certainly have been compelled to swim had I not taken the precaution to provide myself with a stick.
Our transit across the river was watched by our new acquaintances with deep interest, and I cannot but say that the thought that they were watching us with anxiety, inspired us with courage, and a sort of pride to stem the angry current, and aided us much in making a safe pas- sage. At least, it gave us great pleasure to know that we were watched with interest by those strangers. I have since renewed the acquaintance I then made, with some of them, and found them such people as one would choose for neighbors and friends. At the time of taking the precaution of securing my journal in the top of my hat, I little thought of ever being called upon for an extract from its pages.
Toward evening of the same day, I arrived at my home, having traveled through some of the best, and certainly some of the most delightful and beautiful country I had ever before seen. In sixty-five miles, I passed but one house. At that time, I did not know of a family residing in what is now Walworth County, if there were any, they must have lived on the extreme south side
I will note the origin of a few of the names applied to localities in Rock County. Thiebeau, the old French trader, and early settler at Beloit, told me that the name Koshkonong, was of Winnebago derivation, and means " the place where we shave," as when he and another trader first came into the country, they left their razors at the lake, and would travel around among the Indians trading for furs, but when they wanted to shave, they returned to their headquarters at the lake. The Pottawatomies had a village on the east side, and their name signified " the lake we live on."
Emerald Grove was named by Dr. James Heath. Mount Zion was first so called by James Wood and Erastus Coddington. Johnstown derived its name from John A. Fletcher; Prairie du Lac, from the small lakes on the northeast side of the prairie ; but our letters being frequently miscarried to Prairie du Sac, or, as we generally called it, Sauk Prairie, northwest of the Wis- consin River-in order to remedy that annoyance, we met and named the town Milton. Otter Creek took its name from the number of otter slides along its banks at the time of surveying.
A claim was made, where I now reside, on the 4th of March, 1837, the day Martin Van Buren was to have taken the Presidential chair. It came on Sunday, so he put it off one day ; we did not, but came twelve miles in a sleigh and marked our claim.
IV-GEORGE W. OGDEN, MILTON, NEAR LAKE KOSHIKONONG, 1856.
In company with Dwight Foster, F. A. Jewett, Gilbert McNaught and my brother, we left Milwaukee in the month of September, 1836, with an ox team, wending our way westward for the Rock River Valley, for the purpose of finding homes in this then far Northwest, so recently the theater of the severe and protracted conflict between Black Hawk and his savage hordes and the "pale faces," in which the Indians had the worst of the conflict, not to say of the cause, and in which they were completely subdued and driven beyond the Mississippi, and a permanent peace established. We took aboard a bag of flour, some pork, and a very few cook- ing utensils-sufficient for " baching it" on the frontier.
After leaving Waukesha, we found but one settler before reaching what is now the city of Janesville. Here Mr. Janes kept a small log tavern. This was the only building in the " city." We stayed here all night, sleeping on some deer-skins, thrown on the floor; and this, indeed, we thought to be very good lodging, we were so fatigued with our travel.
The next morning, we started on Atkinson's trail, a little east of north, and traveled across Rock and Du Lac Prairies until we arrived at Otter Creek, in the north part of the county. From this point, we traveled due west until we reached Rock River, at the foot of Lake Kosh- konong, where the village of Milton is now situated, with its two giant iron arms diverging and
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reaching out already to Madison and Janesville, and yet, in a short time, to grasp the " Father of Waters" at Dubuque and Prairie du Chien. Here we concluded to stop and commence our future homes. My brother, a few months previous, had been here and built a small log cabin, in which we at once commenced housekeeping.
My claim included the camp-ground of Black Hawk, and, from indications, the Indians must have remained several weeks, living on clams, fish, wild rice and game. We found heaps of clam-shells, three or four feet across and a foot deep, and even at the present day I frequently run my plow through these heaps of shells. This old camp-ground covered nearly two acres. His tent-poles were then standing, together with his flag-staff, painted in a fantastic manner. These poles remained standing several years. Here were several recent graves, also one skele- ton, placed in a wooden trough, with another turned over it, inside of a small pen, laid up of poles, all on the surface of the ground. I have plowed out, at various times, large shells, at least a foot and a half in length, shaped like the periwinkle-undoubtedly sea-shells; but how they came here is the question. A large number of ancient mounds are here. I have, however, leveled several of them with my plow, and turned out several relics, such as human bones, beads, pieces of wampum and stone battle-axes.
Thiebeau (pronounced Tebo), a Canadian, the former and earliest proprietor of Beloit, with his two Indian wives, resided near my claim, on what is now known as Thiebeau's Point. He, with his family (he had three or four children), remained here until the winter of 1837-38, when he was murdered, no doubt, by his son Francis and his mother-one of his wives. This resulted from a family quarrel, he wishing to remain here and cultivate the land; they were anxious to follow the Indians west of the Mississippi.
The Indians, in considerable numbers, remained around in this vicinity for several years; and even until very recently they have made annual visits, to fish and gather rice, which form- erly grew in great abundance on the borders of the lake. I was in the habit of trafficking with them, selling them " quashagon," bread ; " coocoosh," pork ; " wahbumbra," melons and squashes, and received, in payment. buckskins, venison, moccasins and buckskin coats.
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