USA > Arizona > The resources of Arizona; a description of its mineral, farming, grazing and timber lands; its rivers, mountains, valleys and plains; its cities, towns and mining camps; its climate and productions; with brief sketches of its early history etc > Part 26
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Moquis and Their "Seven Cities " -- The Warlike Navajos-Number of Indians in the Territory -- The Reservation System.
RIZONA has long been considered the home of the most savage and bloodthirsty tribe of Indians on the North American continent. The tales of their sickening tortures, fiendish massacres, and deeds of deviltry and daring, which have been sent broadcast over the land, have given the Territory a most unenviable reputation abroad. Looking through the lurid atmosphere which the reports of death and devastation have thrown about Arizona, people at a distance have long regarded the region as the dark and bloody ground of the West; a country where every man went armed to the teeth; where every bush and rock sheltered a savage foe, and where life and property was entirely at the mercy of a murderous hordc.
And it must be confessed that this opinion was once well- grounded. The neglected graves which mark every road and mountain trail speak mutely, but eloquently, of the fierce strug- gle waged here for years. The pioneers who rest in bloody shroud on plain and mountain side, attest the nature of the con- test, and the list of those who fell victims to savage treachery tell how fierce was the battle between civilization and barbarism, and how stubbornly the red-man resisted the advance of the pale-face. From the time of the American occupation up to the year 1875, it is estimated that not less than 1,000 men, women and children were ruthlessly slaughtered by the Apache. The few whites in the country, isolated from the centres of pop- ulation, and surrounded on all sides by the ever-watchful foe, were always in a state of siege and were never without their arms.
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But they were of the stuff which no dangers could daunt or no obstacles could deter. Surrounded by a wall of fire, they bravely pressed on, and blazed the path over which progress and civilization have since moved hand in hand. The story of their deeds of daring, their privations, their pluck and their indomit- able perseverance, would make the most thrilling chapter in the history of the border. No writer of Indian romance ever imag- ined such a struggle whose thrilling facts outstep the wildest dreams of fiction. The lonely ambush, the hand-to-hand en- counter, the midnight attack, the shrieks of helpless women and children, the flames of burning dwellings, the terrible tortures and the terrible sufferings of unfortunate captives, would make a volume, horribly fascinating in its record of murder, rapine and robbery.
But the red-man had to yield to his destiny. Here, as every- where else, the light of civilization blinds and consumes him. The survival of the fittest holds here as elsewhere, and the dom- inant race has asserted itself. But of all the aboriginal tribes in North America the Apache has most stubbornly resisted the march of progress. He has successively opposed the advance of Spaniard, Mexican and American, and has only submitted after being thoroughly beaten and subdued. Our first glimpse represents him as a veritable Ishmaelite, with his hand against all his neighbors; a born murderer and marauder, who delighted in blood and pillage. This was the character he bore with the Pimas and other peaceful tribes when the Spaniards entered the country, 350 years ago. He was then, as now, a wild man, making his home in the rugged and most inaccessible mountain regions, and often swooping down on the fields and flocks of his industrious neighbors. The early Mission colonics were subject to his constant raids, and ยท nearly all of them were at last de- stroyed by this wild freebooter.
It has been thought by many that the ancient race which once flourished here were wiped out by this horde of savage banditti. And it is not an unreasonable proposition when we consider how persistently they have resisted the advance of a more perfect and vigorous civilization. But his power for evil is past, and in a few short years there will be nothing left of the fierciest race of savages that ever roamed in North America, save a name linked with a thousand deeds of savage ferocity, and unadorned by a single virtue, save perhaps, that of savage courage.
The Apache tribe in Arizona number about 5,000. Since the year 1874 these Indians have lived on the San Carlos reserva- tion. This reservation is situated north of the Gila river, in the eastern part of the Territory. It embraces portions of Gila, Graham, and Apache counties, is watered by the San Carlos, Cibicu, Eagle creek, Rio Bonita and other tributaries of the Gila, and contains 4,440 square miles. It embraces some of the finest farming lands in the Territory, and some of the most ex-
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tensive grazing ranges. It is also known to be rich in minerals, of gold, silver and copper; has some extensive forests of fine timber, and is in all respects one of the fairest portions of the Territory. The streams are alive with fish, the forests are full of game, the soil is of the richest and the climate superb. It is estimated there are at least 50,000 acres of land within this reservation that could easily be brought under cultivation. Of this immense tract not over 1,000 acres have been reclaimed by the aboriginal agriculturists. After all the expense which the government has incurred in purchasing tools and agricultural machinery, a beggarly 1,000 acres is all that can be shown after nearly ten years of trial.
A large school-house has been built and fitted up with dor- mitories, bath-rooms, and other civilized conveniences. Some thirty scholars receive board and tuition at this institution. The effort to teach the young Apache idea how to shoot in the peaceful paths of learning has not proved much of a success, and the study of orthography is far less interesting than the knowledge of how to make away with some neighboring cattle- grower's stray stock. The reservation at San Carlos is in charge of an agent, with the modest salary of $1,500 per year. As assistants he has one clerk, one store-keeper, one physician, one chief of scouts, one blacksmith, one carpenter, three butchers three teamsters and two interpreters. The agent has sole con trol over the Indians, and is responsible only to the Interior Department for his conduct.
The Apache nation is divided into a number of sub-tribes of which the following are the most prominent :- Coyoteres, White Mountain, Chiricahuas, Pinals, Tontos, Aguas Calientas, Apache- Yumas, Apache-Mohaves. These sub-tribes are again divided into bands. Each tribe is governed by a chief, and each band by a captain. As far back as we have any knowledge of them, this system of tribal government prevailed. At no time was there one head chief acknowledged by the whole nation, al- though the chiefs of sub-tribes, like Cochise, Mangus Colorado and Francisco, exerted a strong influence over all the nation, and often led to war contingents from many bands. In their civil polity the Apaches are republicans of the most advanced type. The chief is elected by the popular voice, and when his course becomes obnoxious to the majority he is requested to resign, and another is chosen in his place. The chieftainship is heredi- tary in one family, only so long as the succeeding heirs have the ability to perform its duties satisfactorily. Where an incompe- tent succeeds his father he is often displaced to make room for some obscure captain, whose deeds as an accomplished thief and successful raider commend him to the suffrages of his tribesmen.
As may be imagined from this, the authority of the chief is merely in name. The Apache is jealous of all restraint, and
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will brook no interference with the exercise of his individual license, and there is probably no tribe of Indians on whose shoulders the cares of government sit so lightly. The Apaches are polygamists, and keep as many wives as their fancy may dictate, or as they can induce to live with them. No marriage ceremony is indulged in. The bridegroom, having made his choice, visits the abode of his inamorata, and after making a present to her father, according to his financial standing, carries her off from the parental wickiup. The women are the hewers of wood and the drawers of water, the Apache braves, like all other Indians, disdaining all manual labor. Their morals have not been improved by contact with the whites, but in their wild state they observed a code almost Draconian in its severity. Infidelity on the part of the wife, among the Coyoteros, was punished by cutting off the nose, but this has been done away with since their intercourse with the pale-faces, as its strict observance threatened the mutilation of the entire female por- tion of the tribe.
The Apaches, like all other American Indians, believe in a Great Spirit and another existence in the "happy hunting grounds." They are very superstitious, believe in witchcraft and spiritualism, and have almost implicit confidence in their medi- cine men. They are cremationists and burn their dead. Their habits are filthy; they are lazy, indolent and thievish. The lat- ter accomplishment they have reduced to a fine art, and the tales of their exploits would put to the blush the most expert cattle-riever that ever swung a lariat on the border.
Physically, the Apaches are below the medium height, but sinewy and well put together. Their complexion is a dirty black, and the expression of their features tells of their villainous and bloodthirsty natures. They are capable of standing much fatigue and hardship and can make long journeys over the bar- ren plains and mountains without food or drink. They are thieves by nature and murderers by instinct. In their wild state they had no fixed habitation, and roamed through the mount- ains, improvising a rude shelter for a few days where game or mescal was abundant. Yet this handful of savages have vir- tually maintained a reign of terror in Arizona and northern Mexico until within the last few years. They are adepts at savage warfare and are masters of every stratagem to entrap the unwary traveler. Never giving battle on the open plain, they always lay hidden behind some rock or bush and surprised their victim when he least expected an attack. Of all Indians, the Apache seems less disposed to adopt the habits and mode of life of the white man. He is a savage, pure and simple, and can no more be tamed than a tiger or a wild-cat.
Of all the Apache race the Chiricahuas are the most warlike. Their country in southern Arizona extended from Tucson east to the line of New Mexico, and south of the old Overland Stage
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Line. Under the leadership of their famous chief, Cochise, they marked every mile of the old overland road with the grave of some victim, and carried their forays all over the northern States of Mexico, even spreading dismay to the very gates of Durango. It is believed that this band of savages have murdered more persons-American and Mexican-than any tribe of the same number in North America. It is this band which has caused all the trouble in southern Arizona for the past two years, and who are now raiding through Mexico. For such demons there can be only one treatment-extermination-and the authorities on both sides of the border have at last arrived at this conclus- ion. They have done more to retard the progress of the Territory than all else combined, and the brightest day in her history will be the one that sees the last of them pass over to the happy hunting-grounds. The Apaches are gradually decreasing; their power is forever broken; the contact with civ- ilization is too much for them, and this savage autocrat, who for centuries kept Pima, Moquis and Papago on the defensive, will soon pass away.
The Pima and Maricopa tribes have a reservation set apart for them on the Gila river. It begins about nine miles below the town of Florence, and extends down the stream to its junc- tion with the Salt, a distance of nearly thirty-five miles, embrac- ing some of the richest valley land in the Territory. By an ex- ecutive order, dated July 14, 1878, another tract of rich land on the north side of Salt river, was set apart for their use. The Pimas number about 4,500; the Maricopas, about 500. Both tribes arc semi-civilized, till the soil, own cattle and horses, live in permanent abodes, and are peaceful and industrious. They cultivate about 400 acres on the Salt and 800 acres on the Gila. Their wheat crop will average about 2,000,000 pounds a year. It is much superior to that of their white neighbors on the Salt, both in cleanliness and quality, makes a better article of flour and commands a higher price.
Besides wheat, corn, pumpkins, beans, sorghum and vegetables are raised in large quantities. They manufacture ollas, or earthen jars, for holding water, baskets and other articles of stone and willow-ware. They formerly made some very fine blankets and cotton fabrics. Their farming is of the most primitive style ; the grain is cut with sickles, and threshed by being laid on a smooth carthen floor and driving a band of ponies over it. They live in small villages, the inhabitants of each holding their lands in severalty. Their houses are built by placing a number of poles in a circle, arched at the top. These poles are then covered with grass and mud, a small open- ing being left for a door. When completed, they look like a gigantic beehive.
The Pimas were settled in their present abode when first visited by the Spaniards, three centuries and a half ago. Then, as
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now, they cultivated the soil, manufactured earthen vessels and fabrics of cotton and wool. They had no knowledge of their origin, and could tell their visitors nothing of their history. They have not changed, in any way, in the past 350 years, and are the same in manners, customs and habits, to-day, as they were when Cabeza de Vaca dropped in amongst them in his tramp from the everglades of Florida. They are governed by one head chief, the position being hereditary in one family. The tribe is subdivided into bands, each band being ruled by a cap- tain, who is elected by the popular vote. Each village has a council hut, where the leading men frequently meet and discuss the "affairs of State." In cases of trouble or disagreement among members of the tribe, a council of the old men is called, and the matter settled by arbitration.
They observe the family tie, and are very particular about marrying near relatives. They believe in monogamy, but some- times a plurality of wives is allowed, as when a brother's wife is left without support it is considered the correct thing for the surviving brother to take charge of her. The marriage cere- mony is simple. A young man goes with a friend to the residence of his intended, and asks the "old man" for the hand of his daughter, at the same time stating his own pros- pects for the future. The old party replies, and sometimes the future mother-in-law expresses her views. If the verdict is favorable, he takes his bride by the hand, leads her to his wickiup, and from that time on they are considered man and wife. Divorces are common among the Pimas. When either party becomes dissatisfied, through infidelity or any other cause, he or she, as the case may be, packs traps and leaves the rancheria. The party to blame loses all the common property ; the mother takes care of the children, if there are any.
In case of murder among them, the task of avenging the victim is left to his relatives. But crime is little known, and the best of order always prevails. They have great faith in their medicine-men-so long as they are successful in effecting cures. Repeated failures, however, are apt to lead to unpleas- ant consequences. A case lately occurred where an unfortunate disciple of Galen, having sent three patients in succession to the happy hunting-grounds, was summarily dealt with by having his brains knocked out with a club. They have some dim notion of a Creator and a hereafter. They are also strong believers in witchcraft, and club to death those whom they believe guilty of it. They bury their dead. The Pimas have a tradition that the Casa Grande and the other towns which once existed on the Salt and the Gila rivers were destroyed by an army who came from the east. They were at one time a large and power- ful nation, with villages extending down as far as the center of Sonora. The entire country, to the Gulf of California, was called by the Spanish explorers, Pimiera Alta and Pimiera Abajo.
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The Pimas have always been friends of the whites, and the enemy of the Apaches. They gave succor and assistance to the early settlers and their doors were always open to the unfor- tunate American hard-pressed by the savage foe. They are a peculiar race and for centuries have lived and labored, and passed away in their quiet valley under the shadow of the Sierra de Estrella. Empires have been founded and overturned ; wonder- ful discoveries have been made; the earth has undergone vast changes, but nothing has disturbed the peaceful serenity of the Pima's life. Shut out from the rush and roar of the busy world, he is to-day as he was ages ago.
The Maricopas are on the same reservation with the Pimas, but live separately. They were once a part of the Yuma tribe, but were driven out, and joined the Pimas, over eighty years ago. They have intermarried with their protectors, and adopted their habits and many of their customs. Their language is differ- ent and both tribes but imperfectly understand each other. In one particular they resemble the Apaches, they cremate their dead. Both the Pimas and Maricopas are expert warriors, and have nearly always worsted the Apache. In 1857, the Yumas, Mohaves and Apache-Mohaves, came up the Gila and attacked the Maricopas near Maricopa Wells. The Pimas came to the assistance of the latter, and a bloody battle ensucd. The Yumas were surrounded and, being deserted by their allies, were cut to pieces. Only two or three lived to carry the dismal tale to the Colorado. When the battle ended, ninety Yuma braves lay stretched stark and stiff on the sandy plain. Since then the Yumas have never ventured far up the Gila river.
The Papagos were once a part of the Pima nation, but were converted to Christianity by the Spanish missionaries, and took the name Papago, (baptized) after being received into the church, of which they yet remain faithful members. Of all the Indian tribes of the Territory they are the most industrious, peaceful, virtuous, temperate and thrifty. Like all Indians who are inclined to peace and industry, they receive no aid from the Department; it is only the bad Indians who are pampered and coddled by our paternal government. The Papagos are farm- ers and stock-raisers. They speak the same language as the Pimas, and the only thing that distinguishes them from the lat- ter is the manner of cutting the hair; they also wear hats and dress after the manner of the lower class of Mexicans. The tribe have a reservation on the Santa Cruz which includes the old Mission church of San Xavier. This is one of the finest tracts of farming land in the Territory. A large part of it has been brought under cultivation and fine crops of wheat, barley, corn, pumpkins, melons, etc., are raised.
The tribe own a great many cattle and horses. They have also a settlement on the Gila, below the mouth of the Salt, where they cultivate about 400 acres. During the long and
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bloody contest with the Apache, the Papagos done good ser- vice, fighting side by side with the whites. In their combats with the common enemy they have always come off victorious. They are good laborers, and numbers of them are employed by the farmers of the Salt and Gila river valleys during the harvest season.
Papagueria, the land of the Papagos, extends west from Tuc- son to the head of the Gulf. It is a wild and uninviting region ; water is scarce, and vegetation not abundant. Isolated, barren mountains and dry plains are the striking features of the country. At certain points the Indians have dug wells and established villages around them. Little patches of corn and pumpkins are planted, and shallow reservoirs formed to catch the rain-fall, which sometimes pours down on these arid plains with tropic fury. A great many of the tribe still live in this, their old home. The Sisters of St. Joseph have established a school at the old church of San Xavier, which is largely attended, and is doing much good for the tribe.
The Colorado river reservation was established by Act of Con- gress, March 3, 1865. It is situated between Ehrenberg and La Paz, and embraces an area of about 600 square miles, and a total Indian population of 1,010, composed of the following tribes : Chim-e-hue-vis, 208; Mohaves, 802. The Mohaves, who have lived along this portion of the Colorado ever since we have any knowledge of them, are a tall, muscular and rather handsome race. They were once in active hostility to the whites, but the crushing defeat which they sustained at the hands of Col. Hoff- man, of the regular army, in 1859, completely broke their spirit, and ever since they have evinced no desire to go on the war- path. Morally, they have long been considered among the most degraded of all the Arizona Indian tribes. Prostitution is almost universal, and the marriage tie is scarcely regarded. Contact with the whites has brought disease and death, and the powerful tribe of Mohaves are but an insignificant band of tatterdemalions whose days are already numbered.
The Chim-e-hue-vis, on the reservation are much farther ad- vanced than the Mohaves. They dress in light cotton stuffs, aud their women are especially noted for their good looks. Their country is on the California side of the Colorado, oppo- site Ehrenberg and La Paz. The government has expended a large sum in constructing irrigating canals on this reservation, with the hope of making the occupants self-sustaining, but it appears to have been money thrown away. The Indians culti- vate a few small patches and raise a little corn and wheat, and a few melons, pumpkins, etc.
An agent is in charge of them, besides a physician, clerk, farmer, carpenter, blacksmith, teacher, matron and cook. With such an imposing staff it would be expected that some tangible results would be obtained ; but the effort to light the torch of
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civilization on the Colorado river reservation has proved a lamentable failure, and the people are compelled to support a lot of worthless vagabonds, too lazy to earn their own liveli- hood. Formerly the Mohaves were in close intercourse with the Apaches. Through their intermarriages sprung the tribe of Apache-Mohaves, who inhabited the country between the Colo- rado and the mountain region of northern Arizona. This mon- grel race inherited all the savage vices of the Apache, without his courage and daring. The remnant of them are now on the San Carlos reservation.
The Yuma tribe live on the lower Colorado, ranging from Castle Dome down to the Gulf. They number about 1,200; are a tall, well-proportioned race, with a strong liking for whiskey and tobacco. The name " Yuma " signifies " son of the river," they having always made their home in the valley of the Colorado. They were once a strong and warlike tribe, and gave the early settlers in this region much trouble. Missions were established among them by the Spanish fathers, but they did not take kindly to the new doctrines, and after two years of ex- istence the mission buildings were destroyed and the inmates massacred. Colonel Heintzelman inflicted severe chastisement upon them in 1851, and ever since they have been docile and well disposed. They cultivate small patches on the Colorado bottoms, and raise some corn and vegetables. Their morals arc on a par with the Mohaves, and like them, they are becoming fewer every year. They spend most of their time loafing around the streets of Yuma, doing small jobs for the pale faces. There is a rumor that the government intends to establish a reservation for these Indians near the junction of the Gila and the Colo- rado. There is plenty of rich bottom-land in that vicinity, amply sufficient to sustain the tribe, by constructing irrigating canals. Something should certainly be done for the Yumas, who have long shown such a friendly disposition toward the whites, and who now are on the verge of starvation more than half the time. They are not indisposed to work, and many of them are employed on the boats which ply on the waters of the Colorado.
The Hualapai tribe are an offshoot of the Apache nation, and, in appearance, much resemble the latter. They live in the bar- ren mountain regions of Mohave county, eking out a precarious existence on roots, lizards, rats, mesquite beans, mescal, and the little wild game which the country affords. They also hang around the different mining camps, doing odd jobs and picking up any crumb which may fall from the table of of the miner or prospector. They were at one time on the Colo- rado reservation, but the enervating climate of the river bottoms was fatal to Indians born and bred in the pure, bracing air of the mountains, and they returned to their native hills.
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