USA > Arizona > The resources of Arizona; a description of its mineral, farming, grazing and timber lands; its rivers, mountains, valleys and plains; its cities, towns and mining camps; its climate and productions; with brief sketches of its early history etc > Part 27
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The Hualapais are a brave and warlike race, and caused the
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SEE PAGE 234
GROUP OF APACHES.
BANCROFT-LITH-S.F.
241
THE INDIAN TRIBES.
early settlers of northern Arizona much trouble. They number about 800, with a head chief, and many small bands ruled by captains. They did good service against the hostile Apaches, many of them enlisting as scouts and fighting bravely by the side of the troops. They are experts in the use of the rifle, and long intercourse with the whites has taught them all the vices of the paleface. These Indians have been several times on the brink of starvation, and have to depend nearly altogether on the bounty of the settlers. Although they "have done the State some service," and earned the gratitude of the people by their services against the common enemy, they are neglected by the government, and allowed to gain a subsistence as best they may. But it does not seem to be the policy of the Indian department to reward or encourage peaceful tribes. Flour, beef, coffee, sugar, clothing and other good things are only given to those " gentle savages " who can point with pride to the white scalps which adorn their tepes on the San Carlos. But such is our In- dian policy.
The Ava-Supies are one of the most interesting tribes in the Territory, or in the United States. They have their homes in the deep cañon of Cataract creek, a tributary of the Little Colo- rado, and which has its source in Bill Williams mountain. The narrow valley in which they live, averages from 100 to 500 yards wide, with walls of sandstone rising perpendicularly on either side, to a height of from 2,000 to 4,000 feet. The descent from the level of the plateau is by a steep trail, which winds along the walls of the towering cliff. Through the center of the narrow valley, runs a cold, clear stream.' The soil is rich, and produces grain, fruits and vegetables. Down in this lovely vale the climate is almost perpetual summer ; and while the icy winds of winter sweep over the plateau above, this sequestered glen sees the flowers bloom and the grass green, all the year round.
The tribe numbers about 300, men, women and children, and is made up of a heterogeneous mixture of many tribes, who, it is said, were driven out or fled from their former homes on account of some misdeed. However this may be, it is certain that the Ava-Supies are peaceable and industrious. The few whites who have been down to their village were kindly treated, and found them intelligent and thrifty. They cultivate the soil, and do a brisk trade with the Moquis, exchanging dried peaches and buckskins for cotton stuffs and other articles. Thus, literally shut out from the world, the Supies live in their beautiful home, blessed with everything to supply their simple wants. They are ruled by a chief who is elected by the popular voice, but their customs and civil polity are but little known. They seldom emerge from their secure retreat, and neighboring tribes do not trouble them, knowing their prowess with the rifle and the bow.
The Moquis occupy several villages in the northeastern por- tion of the Territory. They were the ancient "Cities of Cibola,"
16
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THE RESOURCES OF ARIZONA.
of which Cabeza de Vaca and Padre de Niza told such wondrous tales, and which Coronado found to be but a collection of wretched hovels. The Moquis of to-day occupy the same vil- lages their ancestors did, centuries ago; and there is no change in their customs or mode of life since they were first visited by the Spaniards. Their pueblos are situated on rocky mesas, which rise from 300 to 600 feet above the level of the surround- ing plain. On one of these isolated mesas are situated four of their villages; three other villages occupy as many bluffs. The houses are built of rough stones, laid in mud and fashioned like terraces. These terraces are approached by ladders, the entrance to the dwellings being from the upper story. At night the lad- ders are drawn up, and all access to the interior cut off. Like the Pimas, the Moquis are partly civilized, cultivate the soil and manufacture many articles of earthenware and coarse woolen fabrics. Although the soil at the base of the rocky bluffs on which they make their homes is sandy and barren-looking, it produces good crops of corn, melons, pumpkins and peaches. Heavy rains fall in this locality, and no irrigation is required. They have large flocks of sheep and goats, which at night are driven into stone corrals around the base and rocky sides of the mesas, and carefully guarded. Their warlike neighbors, the Navajoes, who live to the north, have very loose notions respect- ing the rights of property, and frequently sweep down on the unguarded flocks.
It is generally conceded that the Moquis are of the same race as the Zunis and other pueblo Indians of New Mexico. Trav- elers whose imaginations have more than made up for their paucity of facts, have supposed they are a part of the Aztec race, and in their religion, customs, and form of government, have traced a resemblance with the people who inhabited the city of Mexico. But there is nothing to show that there ever was any affinity between the two peoples, and save a dim tradi- tion respecting Montezuma, which some visitors assert exists among them, there is nothing to prove that they had any knowl- edge of the powerful nation which fell before the conquering sword of Hernando Cortez. A communal government prevails among the Moquis. Each village holds the land in severalty, and each is ruled by a chief, whose office is elective.
In religion they are said to be sun-worshipers; they also in- dulge in idolatrous ceremonies and incantations, and are firm believers in witchcraft. The government has provided an agent for them, and established a school which is said to be proving a success. For several years Mormon missionaries have been among them, and have made many proselytes. The tribe num- bers about 1,000.
The Navajoe tribe have a reservation in the northeastern cor- ner of the Territory, adjoining the line of New Mexico, and embracing an area of about 5,000 square miles. This reserva-
243
THE INDIAN TRIBES.
tion contains some fine farming and grazing lands. The tribe also roam over all that region between the Moquis villages and the Rio San Juan, and west to the Colorado. There is some fine grazing land in this locality, and every summer large herds of horses and sheep are pastured on it. The Navajoes are the main branch of the Apache nation, and are the most intelligent, active, and enterprising of all the Indians in Arizona. They are a lithe, sinewy and rather handsome race, with keen eyes and a proud and independent carriage. For years they were on the warpath, and it was only after the expenditure of millions of dollars and the loss of many men that they were finally subdued. After being conquered they were removed to a reservation on the Pecos river, but the climate proved unhealthy, and after many had died they were allowed to return to their old home. Since then they have made rapid progress in population and wealth, and are to-day the richest tribe outside of the Indian nation. They number about 15,000, and are one of the few tribes that are increasing.
Thuy own over 15,000 fine horses, nearly 500,000 head of sheep, some 5,000 head of cattle, besides mules, burros, goats, etc. "Navajoe blankets" are famous all over the west, and as high as $150 is not unfrequently paid for those of fine work- manship. Besides blankets they manufacture sashes, saddle cloths, fancy bridles, lariats, and other articles. Over $30,000 per annum is derived from the sale of these articles. Every family has its loom, where the women are constantly employed.
Near their agency, at fort Defiance, they have a large tract. of land under cultivation, and raise fine crops of corn, wheat barley, vegetables and fruits. Some members of the tribe are wealthy, one old chief having several hundred acres under culti- vation, and quite an army of peons about his hacienda. Before their submission to the government they were nearly always at war with their Mexican neighbors, and for years terrorized the whole Rio Grande valley, often capturing important towns, and carrying the women and children into slavery. From this source the tribe have received a large infusion of Mexican blood. The Navajoes are born warriors, adroit thieves, and the finest horsemen in the west. They have always been a thorn in the side of their peaceful Zuni and Moquis neighbors, who enter- · tain a well-grounded fear of their prowess. Although the gov- ernment supplies them with annuities, the tribe is self-sustaining, and rapidly growing rich. The Navajoe reservation extends into New Mexico, so that the whole tribe cannot be said to properly belong to Arizona. Of all the Indians in the Territory the Apache is the only one who continues to give any trouble. Although the tribe was subdued and placed on their present reservation in 1874, the events of the past two years have shown that there is no sure guarantee for permanent security so long as one of them remains within its borders. It is true, the
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THE RESOURCES OF ARIZONA.
outbreak was made by a small band, and did not extend beyond a narrow strip along the Sonora border; it is true that life and property in the rest of the Territory was as safe as in New York city; it is true that the damage done was grossly exaggerated, but all these circumstances do not over- come the fact that the outbreak has injured every material interest and seriously retarded the Territory's advancement
The handful of renegade Chiricahuas who have been raiding in northern Mexico and a portion of southern Arizona for two years past, have brought the Territory into bad prominence abroad once more; and her unenviable reputation as a hostile Indian country, which was gradually being forgotten, has come back with all its former force since the Cibicu fight. Capital, ever timid, has taken the alarm and hesitates to invest in a country where there seems to be no protection for property ; immigration halts in its onward course, doubtful about making a home where life is at the mercy of murderous savages. All branches of industry suffer from the deadly blight of savage out- breaks. It makes no difference that the rising was quickly put down and that the devilish work of the red fiends was confined to a very small portion of the Territory; people abroad who read of it, believe the whole country overrun with savages, and imagine the principal towns besieged and the people flecing for their lives to places of safety! It is thus that an Indian out- break affects the progress and prosperity of Arizona.
The number of Indians in Arizona is nearly as follows :
Apaches
5,000
Navajoes
1 5,000
Moquis ..
800
Ava-Supies
300
Yumas ..
1,200
Hualapais
800
Papagos
6,000
Pimas.
4,500
Maricopas ..
500
Mohayes
1,000
Total
35,100
The reservation system has been tried and proved a failure. It has become a breeding-place for assassins, an asylum formurderers and marauders, a home for thieves and outlaws, a shelter for the most bloodthirsty villains that ever cumbered the earth. For years the government has expended money with a lavish hand in maintaining these wretches in idleness and ease. Abundance of food and clothing, and the best medical care have been theirs. Living in one of the finest farming regions in the Territory, and provided with the latest improved and costliest of farming ma-
245
THE INDIAN TRIBES.
chinery, no effort has been made to compel these lazy vagabonds to till the soil and make themselves self-sustaining.
The people are taxed to support a horde of banditti who learn nothing but the vices which spring from idleness and sloth. Into the hands of these untamed thugs the government has placed arms and ammunition. Whenever life on the reservation be- comes too monotonous, they hie themselves forth, killing and destroying everything in their path. When hard-pressed they cross the border into Mexico, and there indulge in the same deviltry. When they tire of this pastime, and rations run short, they steal back to the San Carlos, there to rest and feast until they get ready for another raid. This is the way the reservation system has worked in Arizona, and is it any wonder the people have become exasperated, and that many of them demand total extermination as the only solution of the Indian problem.
The people of Arizona demand a radical change. They be- live the presence of so large a body of Apaches almost in the heart of the Territory, is a constant menace to its peace, and a steady drawback to its material advancement. They know that some of the finest grazing and farming, and the richest mineral lands are closed to occupation and settlement on account of the presence of these worthless savages. They also know that a large portion of the public domain has been set apart for the exclusive use of Indians, and believe thither they should be sent. There is abundance of room in the Indian Territory and there let the Apaches go. Let them be made to work and learn to become self-sustaining. This is the true solu- tion of the Arizona Indian problem, and the one which will meet the approbation of every citizen who has the interests of the Territory at heart. A few thousand savages, whose worth- less lives, all combined are not worth that of one honest white man, have too long retarded the advancement of one of the rich- est regions of the West, too long have obstructed the path of progress, and cast a shadow on the Territory's prosperity. The Apache must go. The land he has so long cursed with his presence will rejoice when the last of his race shall have passed beyond her borders.
The total area of the several reservations in the Territory is as follows:
Navajoe.
4,452 square miles.
San Carlos.
4,440
Moquis
4,000
Colorado.
600
Pimas and Maricopas
275
Papago.
195
Supies
..
60
Total
17,822 square miles,
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THE RESOURCES OF ARIZONA.
Or nearly one-seventh of the entire area of the Territory given over to savages. The people find no particular objection to any but the Apache tribe. The other Indians are peaccable and well-disposed, and inclined to earn a livelihood by their own exertions. While it is true that the Reservation set apart for the Pimas and Maricopas contains some of the finest farming lands in the Territory, and is much larger than they will ever bring under cultivation, still their white neighbors do not complain at their petty pilfering, and the trouble and annoyance which they often cause to settlers. But for the Apache they have no room. For long years they have suffered at his hands and seen some of their best and bravest offered as a sacrifice to his insatiable hate. His history is written in blood, and his presence is a continual menace to the peace, and an obstacle in the path of the country's every interest. He occupies one of the most desirable regions in the entire Territory, and prevents the coming of immigration and the investment of capital. Let him be removed and his power for mischief will be at an end.
C
THE EARLY SPANISH MISSIONARIES.
The Pioneers of the Cross in Arizona-Padre Marco de Niza-The First Mission in Arizona-The Labors of Father Kino-Prosperity of the Missions at the Time of his Death-Uprising of the Pimas-Expulsion of the Jesuits- Raids of the Apache-The Franciscans take Charge of the Missions-Establishment of Missions on the Colorado- Destroyed by the Indians-Pedro Font and Padre Escalante-Abandonment of the Missions- San Xavier del Bac-San Jose de Tumacacori.
O work on Arizona Territory would be complete with- out some account of the labors, the hardships, the sufferings and the triumphs of the Mission fathers. Following in the wake of that band of daring adventurers, whose conquest of the vast and powerful empire of the Monte- zumas will never lose its romantic interest, came a few earnest and pious men, whose standard was the Cross, and whose mission the spreading of the doctrines of the Nazarene, While the mail-clad warriors who followed Cortez and Coronado were filled with the thirst for gold and glory, the humble disciples of Loyola and Francis of Assisi had a higher motive in penetrat- ing these western wilds, and looked for their reward, not in the treasures they might discover, but in the savage souls they might redeem from barbarism and idolatry. To those sincere and self-sacrificing men belongs the honor of first planting the germ of Christian civilization in what is now known as Arizona. Although they did not come with the pride and circumstance of an invading host, the peaceful conquest they achieved has been far more lasting. While Coronado and Espejo swept over the land, and left behind only a name linked with avarice and brutality, the poor friars who came after sowed the seeds of honesty, virtue, temperance and industry, which bear fruit even to the present day. As has been mentioned elsewhere, Padre Marco de Niza was the pioneer of the Cross in this remote region. On hearing the tales told by Cabeza de Vaca, of the great cities of Cibola, the zealous father set out on his perilous journey to discover them. We have already given an account of his trip, and the fate which befell his blackamoor attendant,
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THE RESOURCES OF ARIZONA.
Estevan. Evidently the good friar did not think the time pro- pitious, or the temper of the Moquis in a suitable condition to receive the gospel truths, so he contented himself with setting up the Cross, and returned to Sinaloa.
It is but charitable to suppose that the glowing accounts which the good father gave of the riches and extent of the Moquis villages, was done with the object of having an expedi- tion sent thither, thus affording an opportunity of spreading the true faith among the natives. If this was his object, he succeeded in part, at least, and the expedition of Coronado was the result. But the rough soldier cared more for the treasures he expected to gather than for the conversion of the heathen. When he found a collection of stone and mud hovels instead of gorgeous palaces flashing with gold and precious stones, he turned his back with disgust and disappointment on the "Cities of the Bull," and Father de Niza was compelled, in sorrow, to abandon a field where the harvest was ripe and ready for the reaper.
More than a hundred years elapsed, after the expedition of Coronado before the first mission was founded in "Arizuma," although the Cross had been planted as far north as Sonora and the Valley of Taos, some time before. It is claimed by some that the first efforts were made at the Moquis villages, and were undertaken under the direction of the Duke of Albuquerque, then Viceroy of Mexico. It is said that after professing the religion of Christianity, the Moquis apostatized, and joined the general revolt among the tribes of New Mexico in 1680. All efforts after this to convert them proved abortive, and unto this day they adhere to the idolatry of their fathers. This is given on the authority of Manuel Variegas in his History of California, but as there are no proofs to sustain it, and as the Moquis have no knowledge of the religion of the Redeemer, it is not entitled to much credence.
The first mission established in Arizona was at Guevavi, some thirty miles south of Tucson, in the year 1687. Francisco Kino and Juan Maria Salvatieraz were the pious pioneers who laid the foundation stone. Although the exact date is not at hand, it is supposed that the missions of Tumacacori and San Xavier del Bac were founded about the same time, or shortly after. According to authentic documents we know the latter existed in 1694, and was then the most northern of the Sonora missions. While establishing these missions, Father Kino and his compan- ion pushed north, and were the first to preach the doctrines of Christianity to the Indians living along the Gila. An effort was made to establish a mission among them at Casa Grande in 1695, but was frustrated by an uprising of the Indians, who assassinated some of the fathers and compelled the others to flee. No efforts were afterwards made to convert the Gila tribes.
On the seventh of February, 1699, Father Kino visited the Yumas and Maricopas of the Colorado river, but no permanent
249
THE EARLY SPANISH MISSIONARIES.
missionary establishments were made among them at that time. This was the last work of the good father; death soon after re- moved him from the scene of his earthly labors. He was the animating spirit of the Arizona missions, and his zeal, self-sac- rifice and untiring energy was proof against every obstacle. Like the illustrious Las Casas, he was the friend of the Indians, and labored unceasingly to ameliorate their condition. He pro- cured an order from the Audience of Guadalajara that his neo- phytes among the Pimas should not be parceled out to work in the mines, under the system that then existed under the vice- regal government of Mexico.
Under the paternal and humane care of the good priest, the Papagos made rapid advancement in the arts of civilized indus- try. In 1710 this noble man yielded up his pure and unselfish spirit to his Maker, and was sincerely mourned by the people among whom he had labored so successfully for nearly a quarter of a century. At the death of Father Kino there were eight missions in a flourishing condition within the Territory of Ari- zona. These were named, respectively, Guevavi, San Xavier del Bac, St. Joseph de Tumacacori, St. Gertrude of Tubac, San Miguel of Sonoita, Calabasas, Arivaca and Santa Ana. They possessed herds of cattle, sheep and horses; cultivated a large area of land, which yielded cereals, fruits and vegetables. Many rich silver mines near the missions were worked extensively, and with the rude reduction facilities at hand, produced large quantities of the precious metals.
This was the most prosperous era in the history of the Ari- zona missions; but the elements of discord and decay were already at work. The wise counsel and directing hand of their founder was missing, and in 1721 the Indians rose in rebellion, killed a number of the priests, and destroyed many of the mis- sions. From this blow they never entirely recovered. In 1743, Father Ignacio Keller was commissioned to proceed to the Mo- quis villages and make an attempt to win the inhabitants to the Christian faith. He was thoroughly qualified for the enterprise, having passed several years among the Indians of the Gila. In September he set out, accompanied by several Pimas, as guides. He passed the Gila and the Salt rivers, and journeyed north into a mountainous country, where he encountered hostile Apa- ches, who attacked and compelled him to retrace his steps.
In October, 1744, Father Jacob Sedelmeyer again made an attempt to reach the Moquis. He went no further than the Gila, being dissuaded from the expedition by the Pimas, who assured him that the mountains to the north were infested with fierce Apaches, who would certainly massacre his whole party. So the father had to give up his project, and resign the Moquis to their sun-worshipping idolatry. He explored portions of the Rio Salado and the Verde, and ascended the Gila some distance, but was driven back by the Apaches. He then de-
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THE RESOURCES OF ARIZONA.
scended the stream to the Colorado, and visited the Coco- Maricopas and Yumas.
The Arizona Missions received a visit from Don Benito Crespo, Bishop of Durango, in 1727, who wrote to Philip V, giving a detailed account of them. The Spanish monarch ordered that they should be afforded every protection, and aided from the public treasury. It is believed that the funds thus obtained were used in the erection of the beautiful church of San Xavier, as it was completed a few years later. In 1767 the prosperity of the missions received a terrible blow from the decree ordering the expulsion of the Jesuits from Spain and her colonies. With heavy hearts the members of the Order took leave of their charges, and left the land which for years had been the scene of their unselfish labors, and which the disciples of the soldier monk were the first to redeem from barbarism.
In May, 1768, fourteen Franciscan Fathers from the College of Santa Cruz de Queratero, arrived at Guaymas, destined to take the place of the expelled Jesuits in the missions of Pimiera Alta, as Arizona was then called. They found the several establishments in a declining condition; life and energy seemed to have departed with the Jesuits, and, where once all was order and industry, slothfulness and confusion now reigned supreme. The Apache, until then but little known, made constant raids on the more exposed of the missions, driving off their herds of sheep and cattle. The Franciscans set themselves to work in- dustriously, and in some measure succeeded in bringing back the order and prosperity so long enjoyed by their predecessors. It is very probable that the mission of San Augustin, in Tucson, (now called the old pueblito), was one of the first founded by the Franciscans. The author of the Rudo Ensayo says that in 1762 there were at Tucson a sufficient number of Indians to form a good mission, but that the priest of San Xavier could not take charge of them, having more than he could do to attend to his own flock.
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