USA > California > San Luis Obispo County > A memorial and biographical history of the counties of Santa Barbara, San Luis Obispo and Ventura, California Containing a history of this important section of the Pacific coast from the earliest period of its occupancy to the present time, together with glimpses of its prospective future; with full-page steel portraits of its most eminent men, and biographical mention of many of its pioneers and also of prominent citizens of to-day > Part 16
USA > California > Santa Barbara County > A memorial and biographical history of the counties of Santa Barbara, San Luis Obispo and Ventura, California Containing a history of this important section of the Pacific coast from the earliest period of its occupancy to the present time, together with glimpses of its prospective future; with full-page steel portraits of its most eminent men, and biographical mention of many of its pioneers and also of prominent citizens of to-day > Part 16
USA > California > Ventura County > A memorial and biographical history of the counties of Santa Barbara, San Luis Obispo and Ventura, California Containing a history of this important section of the Pacific coast from the earliest period of its occupancy to the present time, together with glimpses of its prospective future; with full-page steel portraits of its most eminent men, and biographical mention of many of its pioneers and also of prominent citizens of to-day > Part 16
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Apricots, nectarines, apples, pears, peaches, quinces, and the small fruits thrive well, and are remarkable for the fineness of their flavor. Prunes do excellently well in the valley, and no doubt their curing will shortly be added to the local industries.
The sugar beet promises to do well, and a sugar factory is within the probabilities for the near future.
There are four settlements in the valley ; the town of Santa Ynes, lying in the middle of the College Rancho; Ballard's Station, and Childs' Station, on the San Carlos Jonata Rancho, and Los Olivos.
The road on the southern slope of the Santa Ynez mountains was built by the late J. A. Brown at a cost of $18,000, or $3,000 for each of the six miles of the road.
The Atlantic & Pacific Railway is survey- ing the San Marcos Canon, through which this road passes, where it is designed to make a tunnel two miles long.
Santa Ynez is the town founded in 1882, distant from San Luis Obispo eighty miles, of which seventy-five are traversed by the Pacific Coast Railway running to Los Olivos, whence the remaining five miles are by stage.
The town supports two hotels, two or three stores, two livery stables, six or seven saloons, and a blacksmith shop, and it has a number of sightly cottages and other dwellings.
The Santa Ynez Land and Improvement Company has a fine office here.
There is a band consisting of fifteen mem- bers, which discourses good music.
Santa Ynez has one of the finest school- houses in the county. It is a two-story wooden structure, just completed at a cost of $6,000. It is eligibly situated on a com- manding site.
Santa Ynez is the Spanish for " Saint Agnes."
The Rancho Las Cruces is of divided ownership. It is a tract of about two leagues (8,888 acres), lying north of the summit, and on the main county road to Gaviota Landing. Stock-raising is its chief industry. The so- called town of Las Cruces is three and one- half miles from Gaviota Wharf, north of the pass, forty-two miles from Santa Barbara. It consists only of a postoffice, a store, and half a dozen surrounding dwellings. Less than a
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mile distant are the Las Cruces Hot Sulphur Springs, the principal one of which flows a volume of about ten inches, at a temperature of 90°. The Tulare Indians used to fight hereabouts with the coast tribes, their war- fare ranging down as late as American oc- enpation. On one occasion they raided the adobe rancho house of Las Cruces, shooting the walls full of arrows, and carrying off the horses of sixteen Californians, besieged within the dwelling. They were pursned, the horses retaken, and all bnt one of the Indians slain.
Within two miles of Ballard's, and five of Santa Ynes, stands the young town of Los Olivos, started in 1886-'87. It is supported by the surrounding farming country with its rich yield of wheat and barley, and the numerous young fruit and olive orchards. The population of this little town is about 150. There is one hotel (another was burned recently), two general merchandise houses, one drug store, two bars, two blacksmith shops, one livery stable, one lumber yard, a railroad station-house (of the Pacific Coast Railway, south from San Luis Obispo), post- office with daily mail, express office, one church, one school-house with one teacher, and accommodations for four departments.
About five miles from Los Olivos, and ad- joining Santa Ynes, is the Indian reservation called Zanja de Cota, where live nîne Indian families, or thirty to forty souls, remnants of the Santa Ynes Mission Indians, who live by farm labor, fishing, etc.
BALLARDS.
This little town was laid out in 1881, by George W. Lewis. It is in the Santa Ynes Valley, three miles from the old mission of Santa Ynes, and four from the Santa Ynes College. A fine wheat-growing region sur- rounds the town, having yielded an average of twenty centals to the acre of as good
wheat as is found on the coast. A large irrigating canal runs through the place, and its many advantages promise a flourishing future.
RANCHOS.
The Rancho San Carlos de Jonata, other- wise known as " the Buell Ranch," is a tract of land of almost square shape, comprising 26,634.31 acres, lying on the north bank of the Santa Ynes. It is estimated to contain 10,000 acres of fine, rich, sandy loam soil, well watered by the Shasta Ynes and numer- ons ereeks. This rancho is owned by H. I. Willey and others. This is used for graz- ing, although the lowlands are good grain lands, suitable for corn, wheat, barley and beans. The northwest portion, known as Red Rock, contains large bodies of asphaltum as yet undeveloped.
The Rancho Corral de Cuati was granted to Augustine Davila, and confirmned to Maria Antonio de la Guerra y Lataillade, 13,300.24 acres-United States patent 13,322.29 acres. The main county road runs from north to south through its eastern portion, the dis- tance to Gaviota being twenty miles, and to Los Alamos eight miles. The surface is rolling hills, mostly tillable, but used chiefly for grazing. This rancho, together with La Zaca, carried in 1881 the following stock: horses, 20; cattle, 1,114; sheep, 3,400.
The Rancho La Zaca was a grant of 4,480 acres, made to Maria Antonio de la Guerra y Lataillade in 1838-United States patent 4,458.10 acres. Its chief industry is stock- raising. At the head of La Zaca Creek is Zaca Lake, a beautiful sheet of water of about 100 acres area, 2,000 to 3,000 feet above the sea.
The College Rancho, otherwise Rancho Cañada de Los Pinos, is owned by the Roman Catholic Church, being under the control of the bishops. It was a grant of
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35,499 acres. The rancho is a nearly square tract of land, on the north bank of the Santa Ynes. Two living streams, the Santa Agata and the Cañada de Los Pinos, flow through it. The elevation above the sea is abont 596 feet. Its shipping points are Gaviota Pass and Los Alamos, each about sixteen miles distant. Some 15,000 acres are rich, arable lands, especially adapted for wheat-growing. This land has produced about 1,600 pounds of wheat to the acre. This rancho is the site of the old Santa Ynes Mission, now fallen into disuse. One mile from the mis- sion is the College of Our Lady of Guada- lupe, organized to educate missionaries for the conversion of the Indians. On this rancho is the town of Santa Ynes, already described.
The Rancho San Marcos is a tract of nearly circular form, comprising 35,573.10 acres, granted to Nicholas A. Den, June 8, 1846. By the San Marcos toll-road the nearest point to Santa Barbara is twelve miles dis- tant. Its surface is very rugged, therefore stock-raising is about the only industry prac- ticable. Quail, pigeon, deer, bear, California lion, trout and other game is very abundant in its wild fastnesses. This rancho is owned by the Pierce Brothers.
The San Marcos Sulphur Springs are found seven miles northwest of Santa Bar- bara. They have a temperature of 120° F., and are used locally for skin diseases, etc.
The Rancho Jequepis was granted to Joa- quin Villa and confirmed to Antonio- Maria Villa. It is a tract of 8,919 acres, divided into two nearly equal portions by the Santa Ynes River. The surface of this rancho is much broken, and is used almost entirely for grazing.
The Rancho Los Prietos y Najalayegna was originally granted to Francisco Domin- guez by the Mexican governinent, with very
indefinite boundaries. Owing to the rugged and mountainous character of the land em- braced within its confines, the rancho was considered of very little value and was not presented to the land commissioners for con- firmation. Finally falling under the control of Thomas Scott, he secured the passage of an act of Congress securing the title to said grant in 1866. Then followed several years of litigation, during which the grant owners tried to secure a location of the grant on the south side of the Santa Yncs mountains and adjacent to the pueblo lands of the city of Santa Barbara. Many settlers who liad located on these lands, attempting the secur- ing of title to them as pre-emptors and homesteaders, contended that the grant should be located north of the Santa Ynes. In the inidst of this contest the development of the quicksilver interests north of the mountains gave promise of great results; and, influenced by this consideration, the grant owners consented to a location of the grant to the northward of the mountains. This was consequently done, and patents were issued accordingly.
The Rancho Las Lomas de la Purificacion, lying south of and across the river from the College Rancho, was granted to Agustin Janssens, December 27, 1844, and contains 13,320 acres under United States patent. It is owned by the heirs of the T. W. Moore estate. This is chiefly grazing land. By San Marcos toll-road, which traverses the rancho, it is twenty-two miles from Santa Barbara.
The Rancho Nojogui (in general wrongly written Nojoqui) adjoins the Ranchio de Jonata, from which it is separated by the Santa Ynes River. It was granted to Ray- mundo Carrillo, April 27, 1843, containing 13,522.04 acres -- United States patent, 13,284 acres. This rancho is finely situ-
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ated in and about a well-watered cañon, and along the county road leading through the mountain to the Gaviota Pass and Las Cruces. It is well watered by the Santa Ynes and its tributaries. It is owned by the Pierce Brothers, and the heirs of Dr. de la Cuesta. It contains excellent farming and grazing lands. The principal crops are wheat, flax and barley. Najogui is about eleven miles from Gaviota, twelve from Los Alamos, and forty-six from Santa Barbara. On the Cañada Najogui, about five miles northeast of Las Cruces, and about 1,009 feet above the sea, are the beautiful falls of Najogui, leaping down 700 feet, which have been compared to the storied falls of Minne- haha.
SANTA MARIA VALLEY.
The Santa Maria Valley occupies the northern part of Santa Barbara County, ex- tending from the Pacific ocean to the Sisquoc range of hills, thirty-five miles eastward; and from the San Luis Obispo county-line on the north to the low range of hills separat- ing this valley from that of Los Alamos. From Guadalupe, the main valley extends easterly twenty miles, and its continuation, the Sisquoc Valley, stretches still farther sontheastward, the extreme eastern end fork- ing into the Sisquoc hills on one side and the Foxen cañon lands on the other. The valley here is bordered on the north by the Santa Maria hills, and on the south by the clay inesas. The county near the coast is skirted by a range of low, fertile hills, mostly in- eluded in the Casmalia, Laguna and Guada- lupe land grants. All the drainage of the Santa Maria and Sisquoc rivers falls into the Santa Maria Valley. These streams drain an enormous country-a region that has twice the average rainfall of the same char- acter of hilly land from Los Angeles to Sau Diego. Large and swift streams as they are
in winter, they sink in summer. Besides this water-supply, and the possibilities of artesian irrigation, the abundant crops of this valley, particularly near the coast, are nurt- ured by the heavy mists and fogs prevalent during the summer months.
This valley was named from an Indian called Santa Maria, and the title at first re- lated to but a small part of it, but it was later extended to the whole valley and stream. The greatest dimensions of the valley proper are about twenty-five miles long by twelve wide at the upper, and nar- rowing until it averages about four miles. It includes the Guadalupe, Punta de la Laguna, Tepusqnet, Sisquoc, and Tinaqniac ranchos, their total acreage, as per the United States patents, being 123,590.77, at least 65,000 acres being tillable land. Ten years since, these ranchos carried some 13,950 head of sheep, 3,860 cattle and 879 horses, grazing then being the chief interest.
The town of Santa Maria is about twelve miles from the coast, twenty-nine from San Luis Obispo, and eighty-four from Santa Barbara. It was first settled in 1867, by Mr. B. Wiley, who, after investigation of the title, located a quarter-section each for him- self and three other gentlemen, who were followed during the next two years by some half-dozen others. The first well was dug by Mr. Wiley; it was twenty-four feet deep and eurbless, but it lasted for some four years. The first house in the valley was built by Mr. Prell. The first birth was that of Thomas Miller, May 17, 1869. The first funeral was that of Mr. Rosenburg, who accidentally shot himself in the summer of 1869.
The first settlers put in large fields of grain. There was much trouble and threat- ened violence over the actions of the specu- lators with school-land warrants, who lo-
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cated over the claims of actual settlers that had made valuable improvements.
Tha winters of 1869-'70 and 1870-'71 were very unprosperous, owing to drouths, to damage done by occasional heavy storms, and by grasshoppers. The year 1871 marked the beginning of fruit-raising here.
The settlement, notwithstanding all oppos- ing elements, waxed so strong and populous that the town of Central City (now Santa Maria) was laid out in 1875. The first hotel was built this year, and several shops, etc., opened.
In 1877 was organized a Union Sunday- school, and in 1878 the Methodist Episcopal church was built. The first public school was opened in 1881, the church building being used for a time. In September the town issued bonds for a two-story school-house, worth $1,000, and within one year there were eighty pupils enrolled. In 1882 was started the Santa Maria Times, independent in politics and devoted to local matters.
The present population of the town is about 1,000, while the surrounding country is thickly settled. The voting precinct con- tains some 1,500. The town is neatly laid out in squares, the principal streets, 100 feet wide, running east and west, crossed at right angles by subordinate ones, eighty and sixty feet wide.
Some of these streets are planted with shade trees, and the approaches to the town are all beautiful drives. The streets are crowned and graveled, some having concrete, and some plank walks, and they are kept sprinkled. The chief business thoroughfare is Main street, 120 feet wide, in which are many sub- stantial business buildings. The town covers an area three-quarters of a mile square. The water is partly supplied from wells, and in part by two water companies, the water being forced by steam-power pumps to large reser- voirs, at about fifty feet altitude, whence it is
piped for distribution. There are in the town three good assembly halls, a Presbyterian, a Christian and a Methodist Church, a free public library and a fine $12,000 brick school- house, with four teachers in as many depart- ments. Fraternal societies are represented by organizations of Masons, Odd Fellows, Good Templars, Knights of Pythias, Chosen Friends, Native Sons, Grand Army and Woman's Christian Temperance Union. There is a fine band, " The Fairlawn," of twelve pieces.
In September, 1883, Santa Maria suffered from a severe fire, consuming several business houses, at a loss of $5,000, of which $2,000 was covered by insurance. Again, in June, 1884, another fire here destroyed $29,650 worth of property.
There are in Santa Maria two practicing physicians, two attorneys, one dentist, two drug stores, three general merchandise houses, one grocery, one hardware store, one jeweler one stationer, one saddle and harness shop, one shoe store, two bakeries, three confection- ery and fruit stores, five real-estate offices, one butcher shop, four blacksmith shops, two barbers, four painters, one fine patent-roller flour-mill, with a daily capacity of about fifty barrels, one lumber yard, two furniture stores, one bank, one newspaper,-the Santa Maria Times,-four millinery stores, two tinshops one photograph gallery, one merchant tailor, one toy and notion store, one steam barley- crushing mill, three large hotels, fonr restan- rants, one large lodging-house, five saloons and three livery stables. There are two large nurseries, that of T. A. Garey having some 300,000 trees, while another nursery has sold 40,000 to 50,000 trees this year. Still another has 50,000 trees. Within half a mile of the center of the settlement, there is a half-mile race track, and a prettily planned park of ten acres.
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This town is the distributing point for an area reaching fifty miles to the eastward, twenty toward the south, ten to the north, and westward to the coast line; also for the mines, seventy-five miles distant.
A through line of railway is greatly needed, and the people are anxiously looking forward to the completion of the Southern Pacific Coast Line.
The main industries of this valley are: dairying and stock-raising in the hills and lands toward the coast and about the Ganda lupe region; wheat, barley, oats and corn in the central and upper parts of the valley and the mesas; beans and potatoes from the line of the railroad westward; eastward from the railway fruit-raising is rapidly becoming an important industry, apricots, prunes, and Bartlett pears being the varieties mostly cul- tivated. At the western end of the valley, the potato, bean, and summer crops are steadily encroaching on the dairy tracts. The upper valley and surrounding hills will be largely planted to fruit. Citrus fruits will grow well in the more sheltered valleys and cañons. In 1880 the average yield of wheat on valley lands was twenty centals (33} bushels) per acre; on mesa land, 17 centals or 28} bushels; the average yield of barley was, on valley land, 25 centals, or 41§ bushels; mesa land, 20 centals, or 33} bushels. The whole wheat and barley crops amounted to about 625,000 centals in this valley in 1880, this being rather above the average yearly yield.
As special illustrations of the products, it may be mentioned that Mr. Isaac Miller has twenty-five acres of apricots, five years old, and fifteen acres of French prunes, four years old, with 108 trees to the acre. In 1889 he sold thirteen tons of dried apricots, at $200 per ton. This year the trees were loaded almost to breaking, and the crop of prunes
brought $3,000, while the apricots. sold at 16 cents per pound, produced $7,000.
The prunes yield very largely, and, dried with their pits in, bring 5 cents per pound.
The district of La Graciosa, otherwise known as Fruit Vale, eight miles south of Santa Maria, being composed of rolling hills and small valleys, has mostly been converted into orchards. Here are planted hundreds upon hundreds of acres of peach, plum, nec- tarine, walnut, and orange trees,-in short, almost all known fruits. Here may be seen walnut trees ten feet high, two years old.
The Guadalupe Rancho of 30,408.03 acres, was granted by the Mexican government to Diego Olivera and Teodoro Arellanes, March 21, 1840. The claim was confirmed in 1857, and in 1870 a patent was issued for 43,680.85 acres. It has a coast line of ten miles, and extends eight miles back from the coast. The first farming here was done in a small way in 1867, by John B. Ward, who married a danghter of Estudillo, then owner of the. rancho. He built a road from Point Sal to the rancho, nine miles distant, in considera- tion of a tract of land at the former place, voted him by Congress, for the construction of a road from Point Sal to Fort Tejon. As there was already a natural route between Fort Tejon and Guadalupe, Ward claimed the land and secured a patent for it, at the time when the Point Sal landing was first built. In 1872 was founded the town of Guadalupe, situated in the extreme north- western corner of this county, about seven miles from the coast, ninety-five miles from Santa Barbara, and twelve miles from Los Alamos. The climate here is cool, bracing and healthy. This little town made consider- able growth up to 1882, when the building of the Pacific Coast Railway stimulated the development of Santa Maria, at the expense of Guadalupe, which thereafter lost ground
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markedly. The present population is abont 300.
The soil around Guadalupe is mostly a deep black adobe, which yields large returns. Wheat succeeds only on the extreme upper end of the tract. Barley has produced 100 bushels to the acre, and beans yield a more prolific crop even. Corn is an unreliable fac- tor. Vegetables, including pumpkins and potatoes, score a marked success, but melons are a failure. The air here is too bleak for fruit-raising, and orchards fail unless pro tected by wind breaks, usnally of cypress or eucalyptus. Stock-raising is a great indus- try, owing to the excellent watering and the freedom from noxious weeds or plants, en- joyed by the pasturage of this rancho. There- fore it is regarded as one of the best dairy ranges in California, and occupied largely by Swiss dairyman, who milk a vast number of cows, their products selling at an advance of one or two cents a pound on the prices of butter from the upper coast; several tons are shipped thence weekly. Good water is found here within two to sixteen feet of the surface, and artesian wells 110 feet deep yield as much as ten gallons per minute.
The Rancho Punta de la Laguna lies im- diately eastward of the Guadalupe, further up the Santa Maria Valley, being an irregular strip of territory, ten miles by seven miles in extent. It was granted to Luis Arellanes and E. M. Ortega, December 24, 1844, when it contained 26,648.42 acres, extending a lit- tle way into San Luis Obispo County. . Like the rest of the valley it was once a great grazing region. The soil is mostly a sandy loam, on which the cereals and all kinds of vegetables grow to perfection. The best of water is procured from wells twenty to sixty feet deep.
The Rancho Tepusquet was carved out of Government land surrounding it on all sides
but the sontheast, where it joins the Sisquoc. It contains 8,900 acres under United States patent, lying in the upper part of tlie Santa Maria Valley. It consists of low, rolling hills, the approaches to the lofty Sierra de San Rafael lying to the eastward. While the cercals are cultivated to some extent, stock- raising is the principal industry. The sur- face is rngged, and there is a stream affording ample water-power for manufacturing enter- prises. Once the property of the Foxen Brothers this rancho now belongs to the Ontiveras family.
The Rancho Sisquoc lies at the very head of the Santa Maria Valley, extending back into the hills eight or ten miles. It com- prises 35,485.90 acres of land, mostly rolling country. The cereals are produced, but stock- raising is the chief interest. This property belongs to the Stone estate.
The Rancho Tinaquaic is nearly rectangu- lar in shape, measuring three by five miles, lying at the head of the Santa Maria Valley, it contains appropriate. y two leagues of land. It is traversed by the main county road. This rancho, which is now the property of the Foxen heirs, was originally granted to Victor Linares, May 6, 1837, and confirmed to Will- iam D. Foxen, the title calling for 8,874.60 acres. Its surface is lilly, but large tracts are sown to grain yearly, although stock- raising is by no means superseded.
The Rancho Cuyama, now belonging to Haggin & Perkins, and to Gaspar Oreña, was granted to José Maria Rojo, April 24, 1843, and confirmed to Maria Antonio de la Guer- ra and Cesario Lataillade, whose heir is Mr. Oreña. Its acreage, as by the United States patent, was 71,620.75 acres. In the spring of 1881 it was estimated to support 3,000 cattle. The Cuyama River, the northern boundary of the county, ents this rancho into two nearly equal portions. Thus, lying in
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the extreme northern portion of the county, and separated from the rest thereof by the high Sierra de San Rafael, this isolation is so complete that even the returns of the elec- tions are received from this district more tar- dily than from any other in the county. The only industry here is stock-raising.
THE LOST WOMAN.
The purpose of a historical sketch like the present would fall short without an account of " the Lost Woman of San Nicolas," apper- taining as it does to the history of both Santa Barbara and Ventura counties.
This story has often been told, too fre- quently with embellishments and exaggera- tions which only serve to diminish the force of the simple facts, which certainly are suffi- ciently romantic, dramatic, and even tragic. The Alaskan Indians were in the habit of making to the channel islands periodical visits, to secure otter and other pelts, making fierce war upon other hunters who should seek to follow the same field. Supplied as they were with fire-arms, they were savage and powerful, dangerous even to the whites, and far more so to the natives, armed only with stone weapons.
Of the island of San Nicolas a party of these Indians took possession, and slew every male of the thick population npon it, keeping possession of the women. When the otter- hunting season was over, the Alaskans de- parted, leaving these women to what fate might befall them. About the middle of the year 1835 the padres made arrangements for the snecor and removal of the surviving women, by Isaac J. Sparks and Lewis T. Bur- ton, American otter hunters, settled at Santa Barbara, who had chartered the schooner Peor es Nada (" Worse is Nothing ") for the purposes of their calling. With a crew com- posed mainly of Kanakas, they sailed to San
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