A memorial and biographical history of the counties of Santa Barbara, San Luis Obispo and Ventura, California Containing a history of this important section of the Pacific coast from the earliest period of its occupancy to the present time, together with glimpses of its prospective future; with full-page steel portraits of its most eminent men, and biographical mention of many of its pioneers and also of prominent citizens of to-day, Part 32

Author: Storke, Yda Addis
Publication date: 1891
Publisher: Chicago, The Lewis Pub. Co.
Number of Pages: 738

USA > California > San Luis Obispo County > A memorial and biographical history of the counties of Santa Barbara, San Luis Obispo and Ventura, California Containing a history of this important section of the Pacific coast from the earliest period of its occupancy to the present time, together with glimpses of its prospective future; with full-page steel portraits of its most eminent men, and biographical mention of many of its pioneers and also of prominent citizens of to-day > Part 32
USA > California > Santa Barbara County > A memorial and biographical history of the counties of Santa Barbara, San Luis Obispo and Ventura, California Containing a history of this important section of the Pacific coast from the earliest period of its occupancy to the present time, together with glimpses of its prospective future; with full-page steel portraits of its most eminent men, and biographical mention of many of its pioneers and also of prominent citizens of to-day > Part 32
USA > California > Ventura County > A memorial and biographical history of the counties of Santa Barbara, San Luis Obispo and Ventura, California Containing a history of this important section of the Pacific coast from the earliest period of its occupancy to the present time, together with glimpses of its prospective future; with full-page steel portraits of its most eminent men, and biographical mention of many of its pioneers and also of prominent citizens of to-day > Part 32

Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).

He has laid out eight miles of avenues and has ten acres devoted to ornamental shrubs and trees. The latter embraces trees, shirnbs and plants from about every northern and semi-tropical clime, and in great variety. All this has been done so noiselessly that not half the people of Ventura County are aware of its having been accomplished. A fine stream of water traverses the entire length of the rancho, and is entirely utilized for irri- gating purposes, which is useful in starting citrus and other trees, and also is helpful when some kinds are fruiting. Mr. Cook's experiments only indicate the possibilities of this wonderful soil and climate.

As an illustration of what has already been said of this county's productive soil, and adaptability to fruit raising, one has only to make a trip to the little town of Piru City, which was laid out and dedicated in March, 1888. It is located on the Ventura division of the Southern Pacific Railroad, thirty miles

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southeast of San Buena Ventura at the junc- tion of the Piru and Santa Clara rivers; con- tains about twenty buildings including Meth- odist Episcopal Church with a membership of fifteen; one general merchsandie store, meat market, paint-shop and depot. They also have telegraph, express and post offices, and their population is now about 100.

RANCHO CAMULOS.

On the line of the railway, forty-seven miles northwest of Los Angeles, and in the extreme eastern portion of Ventura County is that fertile 2,000-acre tract known as the Camulos. This was once a part of the great San Francisco Rancho, belonging to.Los An- geles County. This portion of the original grant was established as placed in Ventura when the boundary lines were settled between this county and Santa Barbara. The San Francisco Rancho was granted in 1841 to Antonio del Valle, and upon his death passed to his son, Ygnacio del Valle, who held it in- tact until 1866, when he sold all but 1,500 acres to a Philadelphia company. When he acquired the property, in 1861, Ygnacio del Valle removed his family to reside on the Camulos, somewhat improved already. From that time improvements here have been con- stantly in progress, but the picturesque and romantic features of the rancho have been preserved. Don Ygnacio died in March, 1880, leaving a widow and five children. The present owners have added 500 acres to the original reservation, and the whole has been improved until it is now one of the most productive and profitable properties in Ventura County. This rancho is divided abont equally into farming and grazing land. The pastures raise horses, horned cattle, sheep and hogs. All farming on the Camn- los is carried on with irrigation, and the whole Santa Clara River could be diverted

into the great ditches running across the rancho. Here are grown excellent crops of wheat, in quality very superior, also bounti- ful crops of barley, rye, oats, corn, potatoes, sweet potatoes, pumpkins, melons, and all kinds of vegetables, harvested from the same land year after year with no indication of ex- hausting the soil.

The vineyard here is of 50,000 vines, which for many years have yielded 10,000 to 20,000 gallons of wine per year. From an orange grove of 2,000 trees, 1,200 boxes of fruit were shipped last season. The returns are handsome from 500 walnut trees, as also from the oil and pickled olives from a fine grove of 1,000 olive trees. £ Almost every kind of fruit grown in the United States is raised here.

This rancho was the scene of Mrs. Helen Hunt Jackson's novel of " Ramona," and the del Valle family have suffered not a little from the inconvenient notoriety thus given their property, and the conseqnent invasion of inquisitive and often intrusive and un- mannerly visitors to the site. In the imme- diate vicinity of this rancho there is a large settlement of Spanish-Californian farmers, who employ the most improved implements and methods, and raise good crops of corn, beans and barley. The next great estate is the

RANCHO SAN FRANCISCO,

containing about 11,500 acres of grazing, and 3,000 acres of tillable land, which is divided into nearly equal portions by the Santa Clara River, and of which about 13,000 acres be- long in Ventura, and the rest in Los Angeles county. This rancho was granted January 22, 1839, to Antonio del Valle, and confirmned to Jacoba Feliz and others, then containing only some 10,000 acres. It now belongs mostly to the estate of H. M. Newhall, the well-known auctioneer of San Francisco.

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Save at Newhall, in Los Angeles County, few houses appear on this rancho, whose rough mountains and coarse, wild sage-brush and weeds appear like worthless waste land. Yet these very brush-lands are adınirable bee pastures. Here, too, are oil interests not yet developed.

THE WESTERN PORTION OF VEN- TURA.

The country drained by the San Buena- ventura River is mostly comprised within the limits of the following ranchos :- The Cañada San Miguelito and a part of the ex- Mission, both bordering on the ocean; thie Cañada Larga or Cañada Verde, and the Ojai on the left bank, and the Santa Ana on the right bank.

The vast domain of the ex-Mission Rancho was granted as six leagues to José Arnaz, by Governor Pio Pico, June 8, 1846. Arnaz sold it to M. A. R. Poli in 1850. The claim was confirmed May 15, 1855, by the Land Commissioner, and finally, on April 1, 1861, by the United States District Court. In Au- gust, 1874, a patent was issued to the grantees for 48,822.91 acres. Poli sold the property to the San Buenaventura Manufact- uring and Mining Company. He afterward died insolvent. This rancho derives its name from the fact that a division was inade of the lands held in the name of the old Mission, the church retaining the old orchard and 36 27 acres contiguous; all lands outside these are called ex-Mission lands. At the sale of lands for delinquent taxes, February 16, 1874, the ex-Mission lands were offered for sale withont a buyer, the taxes amounting to $3,163, drawing interest at. two per cent. per month. This region is one of almost continnous settlements, with easy outlets. The soil is exceedingly rich to the very crests

of the hills, and the climate is unsurpassed. The lands are agricultural and grazing. This territory is luxuriantly covered with wild oats, wild burr-clover, and alfilaria. A short distance back from the sea are forests of oaks, not readily seen save from close at hand. The bee pasturage is rich and extensive. The oil belt underlies a portion of this rancho.

THE RANCHO CANADA SAN MIGEUELITO.

This is next northwest of the ex-Mission Rancho. It has about three miles of coast line. This grant of 8,877.04 acres was con- firmed to J. F. Rodriguez and others. This rancho consists almost wholly of rich pasture lands, raising great numbers of sheep. Very little timber is found here. The ocean road from San Buenaventura to Santa Barbara passes along the beach here. On Govern- ment land close by this rancho is a mine of so-called rock soap, being an infnsorial earth resembling marl. It has been exported for polishing silverware, and for use by jewelers for burnishing purposes.

THE RANCHO CANADA LARGA Ó VERDE

was granted to J. Alvarado, who pushed the claim to confirmation. It contains about 2,220 acres, of which all is grazing land but about 1,000 acres, which are well cultivated, and upon which are found fine orchards and handsome homes.

THE OJAI RANCHO.

This is a wedge-shaped tract, which was granted to Fernando Tico, April 6, 1837, and afterward confirmed to him; acreage 17,792 .- 70. In 1864 this rancho was bought by the California Petroleum Company. It was then a very wild place; a dozen or more grizzly bears were killed in Ojai Valley in one winter, and liundreds were thereabouts, as well as California lions, wild cats, etc.

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Lion Cañon was so named from the great number of these panthers that it harbored. Dr. Chauncey Isbell lived here as early as 1866, and in October, 1868, Robert Ayers removed thither his family, the first American household in the valley, where a few Spanish- Californian families were living. In 1870 but two honses, one frame, one adobe, were in the Upper Ojai. In 1872 this rancho pro- duced about 16,200 bushels of wheat, aver- aging thirty to forty bushels to the acre. A grange was organized here in 1874, and, in 1875 there were two school districts, the Ojai and the Nordhoff. The settlement of this section has been most rapid; within four years from the time when the inhabitants were less than half a dozen it had nearly 100, forming an enterprising and intelligent community. The fertility of this soil is hardly surpassed in California; here the wheat crop reaches its maximum as to quality and quantity. No irrigation is used for the sinall grain crops. Artesian water is obtained at Nordhoff, but it rises little above the sur- face. On the hills all the usual northern farm erops thrive remarkably well, as also many fruits, etc., considered semi-tropical in character.

THE OJAI VALLEY.

Almost in a straight line due north from San Buenaventura, from which town it is fourteen miles distant, lies the valley of the Ojai, slut in by high mountains, that deter- mine the amphitheater-like shape whence it takes its name (a nest).

The mountains on the north side take a snowy covering in winter, in sharp contrast with the slopes of sulphur mountain, covered with live-oaks on the south side. Over- looking the others rises Mount Topotopa, between 5,000 and 6,000 feet high, also snow- mantled in the winter.

The drive to the lower Ojai follows an easy

grade along a beautiful clear stream where trout sport and twinkle. The Upper Ojai, to the eastward of the main valley, is reached by a steep grade up an oak-covered ridge leading out of the lower valley. The soil here is rich and fertile, and plentifully watered, and its crops never fail.

Attention was first called to this valley by Charles Nordhoff, who visited it in 1872, and soon after, in his book on California, gave an enthusiastic description of it.

The lower valley is five miles long, and 800 feet above sea-level; the upper is smaller, with an elevation of about 1,200 feet. This basin is well-timbered, and its soil is very productive, giving the largest yield in the county of wheat per acre. It is also well adapted for raising the finest varieties of citrus fruits. Mr. Elwood Cooper, the famous olive-grower, says that the Ojai is also the best olive-growing district in California.

The scenery here is truly wonderful; the softy and balmy air, the park-like groves of oaks, their mistletoe, the vines and mosses, the bird voices within their leafage, the grandeur of the surrounding mountains, the cloud effects-all combine to give an inde- scribable charm to the Ojai Valley.

But there is another advantage; the delightful climate is of great benefit to suf- ferers from affections of the throat and lungs, and the famous Ojai Hot Springs in the Matilija Cañon are possessed of strong cura- tive properties.

The Ojai Hot Sulphur Springs are beauti- fully situated in Waterfall Cañon, about five miles from Nordhoff and fifteen from Ven- tura. The altitude at the springs is about 1,000 feet. The flow is about 50,000 gallons per hour, and the temperature ranges from 60° F. to 74° and 104° F. Several of the springs are carbonated and others are sul- phureted. The Ojai waters contain: sodium,

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potassium and magnesium carbonates and sul- phates, calcium and ferrous carbonates, sili- cates, carbonic anhydride and sulphureted hydrogen. The waters have a reputation for whitening and softening the skin, and im- proving the complexion. These springs are the resort of many people afflicted with stiff joints, rheumatism, gout and skin diseases.

Almost in the center of this lovely valley, and nearly 900 feet above the sea, is the village of Nordhoff, so named in recognition of Charles Nordhoff's offices in heralding to the outside world the merits of this quarter.

Mr. R. G. Surdam, if not the first, was one of the prime movers in starting this flourishing little town, he having bought sixty acres, which he laid off in blocks and lots in 1874. He gave a one-third interest to A. M. Blumberg, on condition that he build a hotel. That structure, which at first was made of light scantling covered with cloth, has developed and grown into quite a sightly hostelry, the nuclens of a thrifty little village. Nordhoff contains some 300 inhab- itants, many of whom are recuperated in- valids from nearly every State in the Union. There are here two hotels, nestled under the splendid oaks, two churches, two school- houses, two general merchandise stores, two blacksmiths, a builder, contractor and Inmber- dealer, and a butcher-shop. There is a weekly newspaper and a postoffice with daily mail.

SANTA ANA VALLEY.

Westward from the Ojai are a number of broad mesas and thickly-populated uplands, which constitute the Santa Ana Valley, on whose well-cultivated farms and orchards are raised as fine fruits as any Ventura County produces. This is all a fine grain country, where wheat reaches its maximum as to height, quantity and quality. This valley is a twin sister to the Ojai in its climate, soil

and resources, and also probably with quite as much water and timber, but this valley contains less arable land than the Ojai.

Here is a region of forests; timber of ma- jestic size, and an undergrowth of wild oats, wild grasses, wild gooseberries, rhododendron and honeysuckle, while wild grapes clamber over the trees along the creeks and the river.

A portion of this territory has as great an altitude as the Ojai, but it is much lower where it approaches the Sau Buenaventura Valley. Above this section the Ventura River descends rapidly, passing by cascades over highlands, but it flows more tranquilly when it reaches the table-like lands of the Ojai and Santa Ana ranchos. Here it gathers volume from the water of the San Antonio and Coyote creeks, the former flowing from the east, the other from the west; and hence forward to the sea it flows with gentle cur- rent. All three of these are fine trout streams.

THE RANCHO SANTA ANA.

This tract of 21,522.04 acres was, in April, 1837, granted to Crisogono Ayala and others, and to them confirmed. This lies but two miles from the Santa Barbara line, and it is the most northerly rancho in Ventura County. The Coyote Creek crosses this forest-hooded rancho, of which nearly 10,000 acres would be good arable land, if cleared of its timber. In May, 1875, this rancho was surveyed in lots, which were to be sold on terms similar to those of the Lompoc colony lands. The capital stock of the company was fixed at $60,000, in shares of $100 each. Among the estimated resources were 6,000 acres of arable land, other 6,000 tillable with side-hill plows, and 75,000 cords of wood. The temperance principle was to be a leading feature of this settlement. The project was never carried to fulfillment.

MISSION SAN BUENAVENTURA IN 1875.

BIRDS-EYE VIEW OF THE CITY OF VENTURA.

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VENTURA COUNTY.

THE TOWN OF SAN BUENA- VENTURA.

The capital, or county-seat, of Ventura is situated a few miles east of Point Rincon, near where the Ventura River empties into the ocean. The "Small City," or " Palm City," as it loves to call itself, spreads over an area extending to about twenty blocks long by six wide. The sea washes the south- ern boundary, the Ventura River skirts the western. a high hill looms on the northern side, whilst the fertile Santa Clara Valley stretches out eastward.

The old town was gronped about the adobe buildings and the semi-tropical gardens of the mission, and it was long isolated for lack of railway communication, being accessible only by means of the steamers of the coast line, at that time generally small and nncom- fortable for purposes of travel.

This has, however, always been an import- ant shipping point. In the mission days, when the hides and tallow produced from the broad lands ruled by the fathers were car- ried hence by Indians and wading sailors, as related by Robinson and Dana, and in later days when a substantial wharf, large ware- houses and freqnent service of steamers facilitated the export of products from the rich tributary country.

Since the coming of the railway, in 1887, San Buenaventura has veritably entered upon a new epoch of existence, with a new lease of life, and the outside world has begun to learn somewhat of her resources.

The town is eighty miles distant fiom Los Angeles, thirty from Santa Barbara and 300 by sea from San Francisco.

Lying upon a narrow plain between the foot-hills and the sea, the town, like many others of the older Spanish settlements, naturally enough grew along one main busi-

ness street. When the Americans came they spread out across that narrow plain, and began also to climb the hills in search of places whereon to build homes. Thus San Buenaventura to-day has five long streets, Front, Meta, Santa Clara, Main and Poli, in the order named from the water front back which run east and west, parallel to the shore, and crossed at right angles by nine- teen other streets, running north and south. These all have either wooden or concrete walks eight and ten feet in width. Probably no other towa in the State of the same pop- ulation has the same quantity of sidewalks. In the last two years Ventura has built 11,310 feet of cement sidewalks, at a cost of $25,188, and 39,104 feet of wooden side- walks, costing $32,100, making in all nine and one-half miles of walks, at a cost of $57,288. Aside from this there are eight and one-half miles of graded streets, pre- pared at a cost of $38,145. The system of sewerage is gcod, there being three miles of sewer pipe that cost $20,000.

Here, as in Paris, France, there are city ordinances forbidding the casting down of paper, etc., upon the streets, or the throw- ing into them of any sort of litter, and these precautions, together with the services of mien employed to do weeding, etc., keep the streets and sidewalks of this town in fine condition. Provision is made, too, against the bane of Southern California during the dry season-dust. By an ordinance approved in November, 1888, constantly three, and occasionally four, sprinkling earts are kept at work on the city streets, at a cost of about $2,500 per year.

There is also a good system of sewerage, based on the Waring plan, comprising 17,914 feet of pipe, of diameters ranging from six to fourteen inches, constructed of the best vitrified ironstone piping, at a cost

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of $25,000. The sewering is greatly facili- tated by the natural slope of the town site.

Running for several miles northward along the border of the Ventura River is a beauti- ful valley, or narrow strip of land, called " The Avenue." It is laid off into small farms and villa lots, skirted by hills on either hand, and here live many of Ventura's peo- ple, amidst a wealth of fruit and flowers. The street which runs through this valley is broad, level and very nearly straight, extend- ing six or eight miles. It is set with shade trees nearly the whole distance, and the enterprise of the residents here provides for its sprinkling from end to end. This is the boulevard of Ventura, and its beautiful bor- dering of tasteful honses, and its well-kept orchards and gardens, make it indeed an at- tractive drive.

On the avenue grows a monster grapevine, about seventy-five years old, whose main vine is over three feet in circumference. It is trained over framework, and produces an- nually several thousand tons of grapes.

San Buenaventura is a town of the sixth class. Its population is 2,350, of which about sixteen per cent. consist of the Span- ish-American element.

The assessed valuation of city property for the fiscal year ending June 30, 1890, shows as follows: town lots, $814,385; improve- ments, $375,370; personal property, $391,- 529; money, $18,871; mortgages, 8171,103.

San Buenaventura was incorporated as a town March 10, 1866, and re-incorporated Marclı 29. 1876.

The municipal officers are: A. board of town trustees, consisting of J. S. Collins, President; and Peter Bennett, C. D. Bones- tel, E. M. Jones and J. R. Willoughby ; Marshal, Frank S. Cook; Clerk, J. F. New- by; Attorney, Lloyd Selby; Treasurer, Chas. McDonald; Engineer, G. C. Power.

There is a volunteer fire department, equipped with two hose carts and hook-and- ladder paraphernalia. There are about forty members.

The town hall and library building, in one, built in 1883, is owned by the city. It is a one-story brick of fifty feet frontage on the main street, with a depth of seventy feet The construction is such as provides for the ready and economic addition of another story.

The town hall contains a fine cement and brick fire-proof vanlt of the latest improved order, whose capacity is sufficient to make it the receptacle of the municipal records and documents for at least twenty-five years to come. This building is valued at about $7,000.

The cemeteries, Protestant, Roman Cath- olic and Jewish, are situated on a beautiful location in the eastern addition. With the exception of the Roman Catholic one, they are owned and managed by the municipal jurisdiction, the town clerk giving deeds for lots, while the sexton reports to the town trustees.

The Ventura postoffice is of the third class. The postmaster is Nathan H. Shaw, and he has one assistant. The postmaster refuses to give any information regarding the business of the office, such as is custom- arily given to the public press once or twice a year; therefore no comparison can be made of the relative importance of this with other county-seat postoffices. The Postoffice De- partment at Washington, at the request of citizens here, recently changed the name of this postoffice from San Buenaventura to Ventura. Much mail and express matter designed for this office found its way to San Bernardino, and vice versa. Then the name was too long to write and too difficult for strangers to pronounce.

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For a number of years the town was lighted by gas, there being twenty-five street lamps, paid for by the city; but since Sep- tember 1, 1890, the municipality has adopted the electric light system, of which there are two circuits. The gas company still lights many stores, offices, etc.

Ventura has no street railways, but a fran- chise to build one has recently been granted.

In February, 1888, the telephone service was introduced, under the management of an experienced electrician. Beginning with thirty connections, the patronage has steadily increased to sixty, and connection will soon be made with neighboring towns. The service is in great favor here.

Ventura has in force various ordinances highly favorable to public morals, among others, one prohibiting boys nuder sixteen years old from being in the streets after 8 P. M.

The high-license law has been in opera- tion for one year. The license is $600 per month, of which one-half goes to the town and one-half to the county.

Located in San Buenaventura, as the county-seat, are various county institutions, hereinafter described, as the hospital, the court-house, etc.

Within the city limits there is a half-mile race-track, of private ownership.

There are several excellent hotels, among them the Rose, a handsome three-story brick, cost $120,000; artistic in furnishing, and excellently managed, it is safe to say this is the best hotel in Southern California.

The following report was prepared by Mr. J. F. Newby, who was for ten years librarian of the Ventura Library Association:

" This association was incorporated Novem- ber 23, 1874, with Milton Wason, James Daly, C. G. Finney, L. F. Eastin, G. S. Gil- bert, Jr., C. H. Bailey, J. J. Sheridan, T. B.

Steepleton and L. C. Granger as incorpo- rators. The association arranged for a fair and festival, the proceeds of which went to purchase books and furniture. All mem- bers were required to pay $5 per annum to- ward supporting the library, and those who did not pay the $5 for membership paid twenty-five cents a month for the privilege of drawing books. A room was secured and some 600 volumes purchased, Mr. J. W. Maxwell being the first librarian, succeeded by Miss Cecelia Perkins. The library was kept up until the spring of 1878, when it became involved in debt and was closed.

" In August, 1878, the library trustees, Messrs. James Daly, M. H. Gay, C. H. Bailey, L. F. Eastin and J. J. Sheridan, made a proposition to the board of town trustees to transfer the assets of the association to the town, provided the town would pay the library indebtedness, and agree to levy a library tax under a State law allowing incor- porated towns to levy a library tax. The town board accepted the proposition and took charge of the library August 21, 1878, with J. F. Newby as librarian, he continu- ing to fill the position until February 1, 1888.

" The library was a success from the time the town took charge of it and levied an an- nual tax to support it. New books were added two or three times each year, until the library now contains 4,000 carefully selected volumes. A reading room is attached to the library, in which one finds the standard peri- odicals of the day. There were over 10,000 books drawn from the library last year by citizens. The town has lately added an addi- tion to the library room, and the library now has two large, well-lighted rooms.

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Author: Storke, Yda Addis Publication date: 1891 Publisher: Chicago, The Lewis Pub. Co. Number of Pages: 738

Author: Storke, Yda Addis
Publication date: 1891
Publisher: Chicago, The Lewis Pub. Co.
Number of Pages: 738