An illustrated history of Southern California : embracing the counties of San Diego, San Bernardino, Los Angeles and Orange, and the peninsula of Lower California, from the earliest period of occupancy to the present time; together with glimpses of their prospects; also, full-page portraits of some of their eminent men, and biographical mention of many of their pioneers and of prominent citizens of to-day, Part 9

Author: Lewis Publishing Company
Publication date: 1890
Publisher: Chicago, Ill. : The Lewis Publishing Company
Number of Pages: 1038


USA > California > Los Angeles County > An illustrated history of Southern California : embracing the counties of San Diego, San Bernardino, Los Angeles and Orange, and the peninsula of Lower California, from the earliest period of occupancy to the present time; together with glimpses of their prospects; also, full-page portraits of some of their eminent men, and biographical mention of many of their pioneers and of prominent citizens of to-day > Part 9
USA > California > San Diego County > An illustrated history of Southern California : embracing the counties of San Diego, San Bernardino, Los Angeles and Orange, and the peninsula of Lower California, from the earliest period of occupancy to the present time; together with glimpses of their prospects; also, full-page portraits of some of their eminent men, and biographical mention of many of their pioneers and of prominent citizens of to-day > Part 9
USA > California > Orange County > An illustrated history of Southern California : embracing the counties of San Diego, San Bernardino, Los Angeles and Orange, and the peninsula of Lower California, from the earliest period of occupancy to the present time; together with glimpses of their prospects; also, full-page portraits of some of their eminent men, and biographical mention of many of their pioneers and of prominent citizens of to-day > Part 9
USA > California > San Bernardino County > An illustrated history of Southern California : embracing the counties of San Diego, San Bernardino, Los Angeles and Orange, and the peninsula of Lower California, from the earliest period of occupancy to the present time; together with glimpses of their prospects; also, full-page portraits of some of their eminent men, and biographical mention of many of their pioneers and of prominent citizens of to-day > Part 9


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BEAR VALLEY.


This is a very productive section, about forty miles north of San Diego. Its postoffice is


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HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO COUNTY.


" Valley Center." The population is about 1,000. The district is ten miles long, eight wide, witlı more than 15,000 acres under cultivation. This comprises farming land as fine as any on the Pacific coast, and crops have never failed here. There is much mesa and sloping land, and the average elevation is 1,500 feet. The rainfall here is more than three times as heavy as on the seacoast. Most kinds of fruits thrive hiere. The productions are hogs, fine stoek, bacon, grain and honey. The central settlement con- tains a brick church, a school-house, store, San Diego Central Railway, blacksmith shop, etc.


Southeast of Bear valley is situated the Gue- jito Rancho, a fine tract some thirty-five miles from the sea, and about 2,200 feet above it, and comprising rolling mesa and valley land, whose soil is red granite. This tract comprises some 13,000 acres, recently sold to San Diego capi- talists. Lands in the Bear valley section sell for $15 to $50 the acre, the variations depending upon the usual causes.


PALA.


This is the location of one of the old auxil- iary missions. It is situated in the upper San Luis valley, some seventeen miles from the coast, and about fifty miles north of San Diego. There is still a large Indian settlement here, and the Indians still keep many of the oldtime feasts, with many picturesque and curious ob- servances. The old mission church still stands, and in it are still held the services of the Roman Catholic faith. Moreover, good crops are still yielded by the olive trees planted eighty years ago by the Franciscan fathers. The pop- ulation is about 600. There is a mail route, having tri-weekly mail service, to Temécnla, where connection is made with the California Southern Railway. This is the center of a very rich section whose rainfall is abundant, and the water supply unfailing. There is here a very large area of some of the finest vine and fruit lands in Southern California. The Agua Tibia (tepid water) orchard, so named from a fine and cele- brated warm sulphur spring on the estate near


the farm house, is the most extensive in the county. Its former owner was Major Lee H. Utt, who sold it to a company of Eastern capi- talists, who have purchased much land here- abouts for colony purposes. All the finest varieties of the grape grow here, as well as nuts, and fruits citrus and deciduous. Frost has never been known here, and the climate and soil are especially adapted to the production of the choicest grade of orange. Alfalfa is very suc- cessfully grown, and there is a great deal of fine stock raised. Bee-keeping is also a strong industry, Pala boasting extensive apiaries. The lands here bring $10 to $75 per acre, subject to the usual qualifications.


FALL BROOK.


The settlement known as the Fall Brook country is on mesa land south of the river San Luis Rey, and beyond the line of the rancho Santa Margarita. It is some twelve miles from the sea, on the western slope of the Coast Range mountains. The average of level is 800 feet above the sea, and some 400 feet above the line of the California Southern Railway, from which it is out of sight, being so innch higher, and a mile or two distant. This section comprises some- thing like 100 square miles, extending from eight to ten miles east and west, and from ten to twelve miles north and south, this limit em- bracing about 75,000 acres of the very best qual- ity of land, entirely adapted to the growth of grain, fruit, and vegetables. Topographically, the district consists of a succession of hills, valleys, and gently undulating plateaus, free from rock or stone, and susceptible of the high- est cultivation. The soil is of granite formation, a dark loam in the valleys, red or chocolate on the slopes and hills. Water is to be had in abundance from surface wells 4 to 100 feet deep. Its quality is soft and fine. Soon after passing Fall Brook, the line of the California Southern plunges into the famous Temecula cañon, with its highly picturesque scenery and its remarkably skillful feats of railroad engi- neering. This cañon, from the extreme near


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HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO COUNTY.


Fall Brook to the Temecula end is fourteen miles long. The most important settlement in this community is the nucleus also called Fall Brook, a thriving center of some 600 population. It has a postoffice with daily mail, a Methodist and a Baptist church, costing respectively $3,000 and $5,000, a good public school-house with two departments, two large hotels, of which the Frances Willard cost some $20,000; a newspaper, a steam grist-mill, a lumberyard, livery-stable, five stores, a millinery and a jew- eler's shop, a watch-mender, blacksmith and wagon shop, and a barber shop. A cannery is to be built very shortly. During the past season, 5,159 acres were planted to grain; 627 acres, largely planted during the past year, are set to fruits. There are over 8,000 orange and lemon trees, and about 9,000 olive trees; many hun- dreds of acres are to be set to olives during the coming season. The largest bearing olive or- chard at Fall Brook yielded its owners at the rate of $500 per acre last year, the trees therein being nine years old. There are in this section nearly 65,000 grape vines, most of which are too young to bear a full crop, many being still too young to bear at all, although there has been some raisin packing done for two seasons past. The most promising industries seem to be lemon and olive culture. Land can be bought here at from $10 to $100 per acre, much of that sold at the latter price being in a con- dition of substantial improvement, and con- venient to town and railroad facilities.


WARNER'S RANCII.


This tract takes its name from Colonel J. J. Warner, the picturesque and well-known pio- neer of Los Angeles, who owned it under the Mexican rule, and back to about 1836. This was the scene of a savage attack by Indians, wherein nine men were killed, November 21, 1851. It embraces the two Mexican grants of San José del Valle, and Valle de San José, com- prising in all some 26,600 acres. It has been for some years in the possession of ex-Governor John G. Downey, and is now in litigation. This


rancho is well watered, having springs in the mountains, small springs flowing through the valley, and numerous lagunas, or ponds, large and small, which attract game in large quanti- ties. The altitude of the valley is about 3,000 feet, and snow falls occasionally in winter. Good farming land is abundant, but there is little tilling of the soil, the rancho being almost exclusively devoted to cattle and sheep-raising. The annual wool-clip of Warner's ranch is larger than that of any other single section of the county.


The voting precinct of this extensive valley is called Agua Caliente, the township having a population of about 100, and being named from the celebrated hot sulphur springs on the rancho, about sixty miles distant from San Diego. The remarkable curative properties of these springs were current in the most remote traditions of the Indians, and the white men have resorted to them ever since the settlement of the country. The springs rise along the edge of a little stream of pure cold water, whose source is in the Agua Caliente mountains. The temperature varies at different points, but the hottest of the springs ranges from 120° to 124° F., being hotter in the earlier part of the day, and cooling somewhat in the afternoon. The water is used for both drinking and bathing, being very soft and particularly effective and luxurious for the latter purpose. Physicians and analysts who have investigated the proper- ties of these springs, and their effect in special cases, regard them as of extreme potency and value. The water possesses powerful alterative qualities, and they are very beneficial in chronic rheumatic diseases, in certain forms of kidney diseases, and in some cases of dyspepsia. These hot springs are in the possession of a commun- ity of Mission Indians, whose village has stood upon that site from time immemorial. They have built along the stream side small bathing houses, rude but cleanly kept, to whose tubs the hot spring water is led by small wooden fuines. They have also small adobe houses to let to parties desiring to protract their stay.


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HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO COUNTY.


Agua Caliente is a favorite spot of resort for summer campers, on account of the springs, and the picturesque surrounding mountain scenery. For a number of years the Govern- ment has maintained here a Government school, under the constant charge of Miss Flora Walsh, whose success with her pupils has been re- markable.


At the eastern outlet of the valley is the pass known as "Warner's Pass," through the moun- tains to the Colorado desert. It has been men- tioned, in several reports of surveys for trans- continental railways, as a feasible pass for the entrance into California of an overland rail- road; and it will probably be used ere long for that purpose.


OAK GROVE.


Continuing westward from Warner's Ranch fifteen miles is encountered Oak Grove, a sta tion between Temecula and Julian. This is a voting precint with about fifty in population. This is a fine farining and stock-raising country, and, like a great part of the Palomar country, it is Government land, occupied under the homestead and pre-emption laws.


AGUANGA.


This is another voting precinct, six iniles west of Oak Grove, also having a population of perhaps fifty. There are good farming locations also in this section, which, like the preceding, with proper facilities for transportation may become of considerable importance. The present industry is the raising of cattle, sheep and hogs.


THE PALOMAR.


This, the " pigeon nest" or "dove cote," is thus named from the immense flocks of wild pigeons formerly found in the range. They are still to be seen on and near its summit, but they are rapidly diminishing in numbers. The whole range is also sometimes called, like the postoffice and voting precinct, "Smith's Monn- tain," from a rancher of that name who was murdered some years ago in his cabin on the mountain. This mountain's long, high back


runs away to Temécula, and forms the eastern wall of the upper San Luis valley. It is one of the most conspicuous ranges in the county, rising to an altitude of 5,800 feet above the sea level, and extending from Warner's ranch to the Temecula valley, its trend being northwest and southeast. At its southeastern end the San Luis Rey river flows from its sources on War- ner's ranch, and the Santa Ysabel flows through a narrow gorge between its base and that of the northern end of the Mesa Grande, the river being swelled as it runs toward the sea by the many creeks and small streamns that flow into it from the western slope of the mountain. Its top and sides bear a great deal of timber, con- sisting of pine and oak, silver tir and cedar. On its suınınit there is a great deal of level farmning land, and large openings of rich meadow land among its beautiful groves; while numer- ons small, fertile valleys, all well watered, are found on its sides, but chiefly on the western slope, descending to the San Luis Rey river. It is well watered, abounding in living springs and small streams of pure, cold water. While the summit is subject to heavy snow-falls in winter, there is a belt lying along the western slope where frost is almost unknown, and which is peculiarly well adapted to the growth of the olive, the vine and the citrus fruits, and more- over most of the deciduons fruits and the vege- tables. This belt includes the Agua Tibia, whose oranges are excelled by no others; the Onca, a Mexican grant abont 2,500 feet above the sea level, containing only some 600 or 800 acres of arable land, which is, however, of very superior quality; and in this belt lies also Pau- ma, which is about 1,500 feet above the level of the sea, from which it is some twenty-four miles distant. This is an old Mexican grant. It is now the property of the Roman Catholic bishop of southern California, from whom Mrs. Helen Hunt Jackson, acting in her capacity of Indian Commissioner, tried to purchase it for the bene- fit of a remnant of the tribes of the Mission In- dians. An Indian village stands on the banks of that tributary of the San Luis Rey river


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HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO COUNTY.


called the Panma creek, whose waters the In- dians use for irrigating purposes. The land is admirably adapted for fruit and vine growing. The Pauma creek is a large stream, and a con- stant one. This is one of the finest and best- watered ranchos in the valley.


POWAY.


Twenty-two miles northeast from San Diego and twelve miles from the Pacific Ocean, shel- tered from the sea winds and banked round against the inflow of the frosty air currents de- scending seaward from the high interior alti- tudes, lies Poway valley. In the old mission records it is alluded to as "Paguay," and known as a resort of the herds of the padres. This title also appears in documents of the depart- mental government at Monterey. Being an In- dian name, it obviously existed only as a sound prior to the Spanish occupation, when it must have been given its first written expression. The early pages of the present county records afford curious illustration of how assessors and other county officials, ignoring the Spanish or- thography, had recourse to various spellings to indicate the recognized pronunciation, among which the present form of "Poway " has finally been adopted by general usage.


Signifying the " meeting of the valleys," the name, like most of aboriginal derivations, is peculiarly appropriate. A cluster of valleys, as a rule a little exceeding one-half mile in width, opens upon a central expanse of about a mile square. These valleys are concealed one from another by the direction of those intruding headlands which alone prevent their union in one extended plain.


The neighborhood embraces about 60,000 acres of fine tillable land, having an average elevation of 500 feet, above which the immedi- ate surrounding elevations mostly rise 300 feet higher. Added to this may be estimated at least an equal extent of land adapted to pas- turage.


Only a fortunate combination of circum- stances prevented Poway being caught in the 4


strangling loop of a Mexican grant, which, like a lariat, was thrown about and held in relent- less bondage nearly every considerable tract of tillable land in San Diego County. Remaining a part of the Government domain, the valley was occupied as a stock range by Philip Cross- waithe in 1858, and by his successors confined to this nse for the following ten years, when other settlers began to gather in and dispute the supremacy of hoof and horn. The turbulence which followed is a part of the traditional his- tory of the county, but it subsided with the drifting ont of the contentious element and the succession of families of intelligent, home and order-loving people. The predomination of this latter class in the present population of about 400 persons seldom fails to impress the careful observer, and has exerted a marked influence in the general social, moral and educational de- velopment so much resembling that of the best Eastern communities. It is a valley without a saloon, but with a Good Templars' organization of over fifty members, which has maintained its weekly meetings withont omission, except from stress of weather, during its entire existence of over eleven years, and built itself a commodious lodge hall at a cost of some $800, which, with the complete finishing, will soon be increased to $1,000. Three church societies, Methodist Episcopal, Congregational and Baptist, with resident pastors, sustain regular services and secure an attendance of over one-third the peo- ple residing within the area of convenient access. The Methodist Episcopal Church, costing 82,- 500, is noticeable as one of the most tasteful structures in the county's settlements. An ex- cellent school, whose numbers will soon require graded departments, is well maintained.


In material advancement Poway is not merely a land of promise. A large area of muscat vine- yards contribute their quota of raisins to the output of California, of a quality commanding the highest market rates in San Francisco and winning the first premiums in the recent coun- ty fair at Escondido. Her peach orchards have acquired a reputation for the superiority


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HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO COUNTY.


of their products, which affords their owners a ready password and profitable exit to and from the fruit stores and households of San Diego. Over 2,000 olive trees are in orchard and a large extent of miscellaneous fruits dis- tributed over the entire known range, except cherries, currants and gooseberries, whose suc- cessful culture is confined to interior regions of higher altitude. The wine interest has no com- mercial representation here. The nursery busi- ness for some years established at this point is of importance and rapidly growing. The demand for the home-grown stock of the Poway valley nurseries has kept fully abreast of the ability of its proprietors to increase. Recent arrangements for its ample further extension will greatly augment its future stock. It is intended to make this nursery the main source of supply for the coming planting of the large surrounding country so readily accessible by the roads radiating from this natural trade center.


Nearly the entire area of Poway is excel- lently suited to the production of oranges and lemons, and some favored nooks, as notably the Havermale place, are so nearly frostless as to allow the cultivation of the more tender lime. Its soil closely resembles that of Red- lands in San Bernardino County, while its min- imum temperature in periods of greatest cold, is shown to be two degrees higher than that of Riverside at the same dates. The absence of irrigating and railroad facilities chiefly accounts for the limited planting of citrus fruits now ap- parent, but it has been of sufficient extent and duration to prove the flattering possibilities of the future. Present prospects warrant confi- dence that these possibilities will soon receive a stimulus which will result in their assuming the tangible form of accomplished facts. Situ- ated upon the announced routes of both Pamo and the San Luis Rey water companies in their approach to the extensive table lands of the ex- Mission and to San Diego, Poway may be con- gratulated upon its prospect of an early and abundant water supply under the most favor- able conditions.


With its average annual rainfall of nearly fifteen inches and copious wells of excellent water at easy depth, it is less dependent upon such facilities than many other localities, yet its residents are not indifferent to the advant- ages of a liberal resource of this character at ready command, and important plans are already matured awaiting its possession.


Surveys of both the California Central and Southern Pacific railroads extend through this place, and it is on the projected ronte of the Poway, Elsinore & San Diego Railroad. Early transportation facilities, however, are more promisingly foreshadowed in the survey now being made via Poway to Escondido in the in- terest of the Pacific Beach Railroad and in the application of Governor Murray for terminal facilities in San Diego for a proposed line whose preferred route is indicated by his previous at- tempt to purchase the Pacific Beach Railroad. Should this result in the not improbable con- nection with the Utah coal fields, the ability to procure cheap fnel may be looked upon as likely to lead to the establishmentof smelting works at this point for the reduction of the deposit of fine iron ore known to exist on the edge of the valley.


In common with many other localities Poway developed a town site during the ex- citement of the now much disparaged boom. But, unlike many other such attempts, this one, known as Piermont, answers a natural deinand and has demonstrated its natural right to an existence and a namne, by its concentration and control of the business facilities of the com- munity in whose geographical center it is located. Telephone and postoffice with mail by daily stage lines between San Diego and Escon- dido afford ready communication with the out- side world. A general and drug store, large and well equipped hotel, the Terrace, of admirable location, public hall, livery stable and blacksmith shop, furnish customary conveniences


WINCHESTER.


On September 27, 1886, the ground was surveyed for a town site at the only station


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HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO COUNTY.


on the Santa Fé line between Perris and San Jacinto, from which towns it is almost equidistant. This is Winchester, lying in Pleasant valley, and it was first known under the name of Rock House, from an old building near by. The present town contains some 200 inhabitants, industrious, intelligent, and godly citizens. As the name of the valley would in- dicate, this is a desirable locality for a town. Winchester is a shipping point for wheat and barley; 200,000 sacks of grain were shipped thence during 1889. There is a nice church building, and the fund is voted for building a school-house. A fine brick business block has just been finished, and the town boasts two warehouses. There is also a hotel, a store, a blacksmith shop, a tin shop, a feed stable, and a wagon shop. Two physicians are among the residents. Good water is found in abundance twelve to sixteen feet below the surface.


PINICATE.


This little town, on the line of the California Sonthern, is ten miles west of Winchester. It is a railway station, with postoffice, daily mail, two stores, blacksmith and wagon shop, and a pho- tograph gallery, to a population of some 400. There is a good public school, and a fine, re- cently-erected school-honse, which cost $1,800. Farther west on the California Southern is


PERRIS.


A promising new town, sixteen miles south- east of Riverside, and abont the same distance from San Jacinto, alinost west, which was first settled in 1882, and soon began to pros- per. In 1883 the California Southern Railroad was completed past this point, and in 1888 the San Jacinto Branch Railway. The altitude is 1,300 feet. Perris valley is some twenty miles long, by five to seven miles wide; this is an al- most level valley, with abundant water to be had by boring five to forty feet. It is highly arable, and yields heavily wheat and barley. The lower end of the valley is called Menifee; and Spring and Pleasant and several other large


valleys extend south and southeastward. To the westward are several good gold mines, includ- ing the Good Hope, the Virginia, and several other deposits of mineral wealth, $175,000 having been taken from the Good Hope by a former owner. l'erris proper contains only some 250 inhabitants, but the district is thickly set- tled with an agricultural population; some of these farmers plow furrows a mile and a quarter long, on the tracts they obtained from the Gov- erminent less than seven years since, and there is a notable general disposition to beautify their homes by planting about them pretty gardens; and this may safely be called a refined and intelligent community. The town has a fine, large, brick school house, two good church buildings, two hotels, a very large general sup- ply store, a good grocery and provision store, a hardware store, and a good physician, a drng- store, two mnilling establishments, two black- smith shops, two livery and feed stables, a meat market, and a saloon. The owners of the large steam barley rolling-mill are considered the heaviest buyers and shippers of grain in San Diego County. There are also a brickyard and luniber and stock yard, and two large warehouses.


Running yet farther southward on the branch line toward Oceanside, after passing Cañon Sid- ing some miles, is found the remarkable little town of


MURRIETTA.


The Murrietta portion of the Temecula Ran- cho contains about 15,000 acres, some 14,000 of which were purchased from J. Murrietta by a corporation known as the Temécula Land & Water Company. Of this tract, about 5,000 acres consists of valley land, about 6,000 acres of mesa or plateau land, and about 4,000 acres of mountain or high land. The company pro- ceeded to subdivide their tract, and placed it on the market during the autumn of 1884. This section is twenty miles from the coast, seventy- five miles from San Diego and ninety iniles from Los Angeles. The California Southern Railway had been completed since 1881, but its trains passed through the valley without


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HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO COUNTY.


stopping, until the town site of Murrietta was laid out. Lands were sold readily, and the fn- ture of the town was soon firmly established. The town site was named after its former owner, J. Murrietta, who had resided upon the land since 1875. Its elevation is 1,090 feet. Its good water, cheap fuel, fine soil, and healthful climate make it a model colony.




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