USA > California > Mendocino County > History of Mendocino and Lake counties, California, with biographical sketches of the leading, men and women of the counties who have been identified with their growth and development from the early days to the present > Part 14
USA > California > Lake County > History of Mendocino and Lake counties, California, with biographical sketches of the leading, men and women of the counties who have been identified with their growth and development from the early days to the present > Part 14
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The Blosser Bros. built a sawmill two and a half miles up Willits creek, run by water power, in the early '60s. It was afterwards fitted with steam. In 1877-8 it passed into the hands of H. L. Norton, and was run by him for several years. It had a capacity of 20,000 per day. He cut nearly 3,000,000 feet of lumber. He purchased about 3,000 acres of timber, but legal complications were too much for the enterprise. After lying idle some years the N. W. Redwood Co. bought part of the land and built a 40,000- foot mill in 1901, antedating the coming of the Northwestern railroad. This mill was burned in 1902, loss $30,000, well insured. It was rebuilt on improved lines, and has ever since been run to its full capacity. In January, 1909, the lumber in the yard at Willits invoiced 10,000,000 feet. There was quite a fever of small mills in the township at one time, running on the scat-
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tering pine timber. None of them lasted long, or sawed much lumber, and piles of sawdust only remain to mark their location.
In 1861 H. T. Hatch built a waterpower mill at the foot of Sherwood valley, which could run only on the winter rains impounded on a meadow which furnished hay and grazing in the late summer. It was first fitted with an overshot wheel, then a turbine and finally with steam. Its capacity was 10,000 feet per day, and it cut about 5,000,000 feet before its market was destroyed by other mills nearer the building operations of the county. It was closed down in 1895 and opened up and run a few weeks in 1900, dis- mantled and moved down to where the Northwestern mill now is.
Northwest of Willits W. T. Coffer operated a sawmill for some years in the '90s, but it has long been discontinued. In 1901 the corporation of Irvine & Muir was formed for mercantile purposes, and in 1903 the Irvine & Muir Lumber Co. was incorporated. They had acquired the business stand of the original Willits store and greatly enlarged it into three departments. In1 1902 they built a large mill in Two Rock valley, six miles west of Willits, hauling the output with teams to the railroad. The mill has cut from four to six million feet per annum, exhausting the timber on 1500 acres, and they have there about 500 acres yet to cut. In 1909 they began the erection of a large mill in the "Big Basin," on the western slope some fourteen miles from Willits. The mill fired up for regular work June 1st. 1910, and cut 20,000,000 feet in the first nineteen months, its capacity being 50,000 per day. The firm owns about 7900 acres and estimates its product will amount to 300,000,000 feet. The lumber is railed to Fort Bragg and shipped from there by water. The firm has a deck 75x600 feet, with traveling derrick to handle the lumber at the mill. The mill is the latest in all its appointments, including all the labor-saving appliances invented to date. Among others is the applied method of hauling logs up an incline of 1200 feet. dropping them down 600 feet on the other side of the ridge, the loaded cars hauling up the empty ones. Three men and a boy delivered 50,000 feet per day at the mill. They do a business of nearly half a million per year.
W. S. Melville operates a shingle mill eight miles west of Willits, which cuts 100,000 in ten hours. It was first built in 1903, and ran for four years, making twenty million shingles on 160 acres. There was also made on the tract a large amount of split stuff, ties, posts, shakes and pickets. The mill was then moved to its present location, where he has cut about fifty million shingles, besides split stuff, on 450 acres, and has 250 acres yet to work up. At one time Mr. Melville had a 15,000-foot sawmill on the first tract, but cut only one million feet when the mill was moved to Island Mountain to cut timber for the extension of the Northwestern Pacific rail- road. The Whiteds built a mill on the Blosser tract in 1908 of 25,000-feet capacity.
The township contains about eleven government townships, which makes its area 253,440 acres. Of this immense area there are probably all told 30,000 acres susceptible of profitable cultivation in all the valleys and benches distributed through its mountains. Little Lake valley at the most contains about 12.000 acres, two-thirds of which is cultivatable land when properly drained. But little over half that amount is now so used, the balance being pastured or cut to wild hay. Potatoes, beets, turnips, cabbage, peas and all the hardy vegetables thrive and grow to great size, but the climate in the late spring is uncertain for corn, beans, tomatoes, etc., though sometimes
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successful in favored localities. As pasture land it is unrivaled in the county, the natural grasses keeping green until late summer, affording dairies the best of opportunity for profitable business.
The principal and really only town is Willits, which is located on the western edge of the valley, well towards the southern limit. It is one mile square and was incorporated in 1888, and has had the usual difficulties of small towns to contend with. Its streets are graded, but as yet no pave- ments have been laid. The sidewalks of its one business street are cemented and crossings laid with stone. Private corporations furnish water and light, and the town has laid complaint about the terms thereof before the State Commission. The supply is really inadequate, for the last season's scant rainfall caused a scarcity of water for municipal purposes. School facilities are unexcelled, there being a Union High School and two fine grammar schools, the former employing four teachers. The main business street fol- lows the track of the original county road, with its crook from a straight line, and is closely built up for half its length, while the residence sections scatter over the remaining portion of the square mile. Quite a lovely sec- tion of the town on the west is not in sight of the main street, being back of quite an eminence. There are but few brick buildings in the town, and the disastrous effects of the great earthquake of 1906 did not encourage the building of them. However, quite a large one is now on the point of com- pletion, 60x100, two stories, for a post office and film theatre. It has the finest, largest and most complete hotel in the county, "The Willits," with all the modern improvements except an elevator, and one that belongs to a past age-a six-foot fireplace. A large brick hotel was entirely demolished by the earthquake, and its site is now appropriated by the post office above spoken of. The town has free postal delivery.
The business houses may be enumerated as follows: Seven hotels, three lodging houses, seven real estate offices, two drug stores, four barber shops, two livery stables, two boot and shoe stores, two photograph galleries, four milk depots, three tailor shops, six billiard halls, three butcher shops, two expressmen, two deliverymen, two halls, five restaurants, one undertaking establishment, one feed stable, seven tobaccconists, two blacksmiths, one lumber office and yard, eleven saloons, two bakeries, four plumbers, two coffee houses, two laundries, one garage, sixteen merchandising establish- ments, two jewelry stores, two wholesale liquor stores, one film theatre, one fish market, one bottling plant and one newspaper. At times there have been two papers extant in the town and symptoms of a third. Charles Mast started a paper in the early '80s; A. L. Dobie issued a paper called the X-Ray, but fire extinguished it. In 1900 the Little Lake Herald was issued by White & Pennington, and passed to the latter in 1903, and was later merged into the News. The latter was established by S. P. Curtis and by him sold to Broback, who moved the paper's headquarters to Ukiah and issued it as the News and Saturday Night, its ostensible home being Willits. P. L. Hall obtained possession of it and after a short time sold it in 1906 to Dr. Liftchild, who sold it to Fred Loring in 1907. The Herald was merged in the News, and it now fills all the requirements of the town and is ably conducted by Mr. Loring.
The Central Hotel was destroyed once by fire and rebuilt of brick. Though damaged by the earthquake, it is still on the map. There are several Italian hotels, small, half lodging house and half saloon, that accommodate
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the laboring class of that nation, who are numerous in the mills and on the railroad.
The Willits Mercantile Company has a large department store, half brick and half wood, well appointed and stocked. Just at present the paving of the main street, at least, is being agitated, and on that question a recall is being urged against a trustee of the town. One garage attends to the wants of the smoke wagons, and all other branches of business are fully supplied with good stocks, including the undertaker.
The census of 1910 gave the town 1153 population. The assessment of 1913 totaled $493,879, and the rate for town purposes seventy-five cents on the $100. The present officers are: Mayor, F. L. A. Gorlinsky ; Trustees, C. B. Melville, E. H. Roth, A. J. James, O. O. Butcher ; Marshal, E. V. Liv- ingston ; Clerk, L. C. Cureton ; Treasurer, W. H. Baechtel.
Of secret societies the town has more than enough, and the bug has bitten the foreign population as severely as the native.
Little Lake Lodge No. 277 was instituted August 8, 1878, The first offi- cers were: W. L. Brown, N. G .; J. S. Holman, V. G .; A. O. Ross, Secy .; L. Barnett, Treas. A hall was erected in the same year, 70x30, two-story, and a library started. It was destroyed by fire in 1898 and rebuilt larger and better in 1899. The present officers are: C. L. James, N. G .; H. A. Walker V. G .; P. L. Hall, Secy .; W. T. Saxon, Treas. Number of members, one hundred.
Lagunita Rebekah Lodge No. 248 was instituted April 13, 1900, by the then president of the Rebekah Assembly, Helen M. Carpenter. The present officers are Annie Bowen, N. G .; Maud De Camp, V. G .; Estelle Loring, Secy .; Sophronia Irvine, Treas. Number of members, one hundred and thirty-eight.
Willits Lodge No. 365, F. & A. M., instituted January 3, 1905. Present membership, eighty. Officers: George Yonde, W. M .; James E. Daniels, S. W .; G. C. Lewis, J. W .; W. T. Saxon, Treas .; F. N. Loring, Secy.
Woodmen of the World, No. 444, instituted May 29, 1903. Present membership, ninety-five. Officers: W. P. Heap, C. C .; A. L. Moffit, A. L .; W. T. Saxon, M.
Knights of Pythias No. 19. Instituted January 12, 1904. Present mem- bership, sixty. Officers: E. S. Conner, C. C .; R. C. J. Ritchell, V. C .; J. J. Keller, K. of R. and S.
Willits Grove No. 158, Druids. Instituted July 19, 1903. Present mem- bership sixty-five. Officers: A. Figone. A. P .; S. Pietronone, N. A .; S. Fig- one, V. A .; A. Reeves, Secy.
Fraternal Brotherhood No. 494. Instituted July 26, 1906. Present mem- bership, twenty-nine. Officers: M. C. Arthur, P .; George Smith, V. P .; M. Argetsinger, Treas .; Eva M. White, Secy.
Willits Aerie No. 826. Instituted November 15, 1904. Present mem- bership, one hundred and twenty-seven. Officers: O. O. Butcher, P .; G. F. Teal, V. P .; E. M. Whitney, Sec .; F. N. Loring, Treas.
Women of Woodcraft, Golden West Circle No. 686. Instituted Jan- uary 14, 1908. Present officers, Elsie Teale, G. N .; Ada Campbell, A .; Tillie Mohn, B .; Margaret Eldridge, C. Beneficial members, twenty-five; social, 15.
Willits Lodge 862, Loyal Order Moose. Instituted January, 1911. Pres- ent membership, one hundred and fifty. Officers, W. H. Clay, D .; O. O. Butcher, V. D .; E. M. Whitney, Secy ; G. E. Mitchell, Treas.
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The Bank of Willits was incorporated April 11, 1904, with a paid-up capital of $50,000. It has an earned surplus of $30,000, undivided profits of $17,709, and has resources of $444,377. W. A. Foster, Pres .; J. W. Lilien- thal, V. P .; W. H. Baechtel, Cashier; C. M. Walker, Asst. Cashier.
The first agricultural fair in the county was held in Willits in Septem- ber, 1879, the society having been incorporated the December before. As a fair it was a success, but a pecuniary loss, especially to one director who paid $500 out of his own pocket to close up its affairs. Fairs were held in 1881-2-3-5. but the later ones were under and by state subsidy in part. All ' were successful in demonstrating the fertility of the soil and the energy of the township's citizens. Again in 1912 a fair was held at Willits, and a wonderful display of farm produce made. Three and a half pound potatoes, ninety pound squash, thirty-five bushels of wheat and sixty-seven of barley to the acre was vouched for. It was a credit to those having in charge the prosecution of the enterprise.
A large dairy has been maintained on the northern confines of the town on the farm of E. F. DeCamp; 10,862 pounds of butter was one year's pro- duction. A half dozen such dairies could easily find good forage, and the wild hay indigenous to the land is excellent for that purpose. The streams of the township teem with salmon in the fall after the first high water and with steelheads in the early spring. In 1896 a trapping establishment was prepared at the lower end of the valley for the purpose of securing eggs of the latter fish for stocking the streams of the territory tributary to the Northwestern railroad. It did not prove a favorable locality, as nearly every winter high water completely submerged it, and it was discontinued in 1909 and relocated near Potter valley. While it was in use from 750,000 to 1.500,000 eggs were procured yearly.
There are numerous small valleys scattered through the mountains of the township. Two Rock, Wheelbarrow, Scott Valley and others, only a farm in size, but Sherwood Valley, ten miles north of Willits, is more con- siderable in size, stretching along a small stream for two or three miles, but nowhere more than a quarter of a mile in width. The first settler here was A. E. Sherwood, in 1853, and he remained in the valley continuously until his death in March. 1900. Samuel Watts came in 1857 and was killed by Indians, the only white man known to have suffered at their hands. David Son and Sylvester Hatch were the next who remained in the valley for any length of time. Brock and Benjamin Henderson arrived in 1858, the latter with a wife, who did not stay long, deeming it too far from civilization, and the Hendersons themselves soon left.
There are two dairies operated in the valley and more might be profitably maintained. The valley is elevated much above Little Lake Valley, and is cold in winter and has usually heavy spring and fall rains, insuring a longer season of green feed than the country farther south. There was a fine body of redwood along the west slope of the valley, but it has been mostly fed into the iron maw of the Northwestern mill near Willits. A branch road penetrates the valley, and the logs, ties, bark, wood, etc., are railed to the mill and the city beyond. In April, 1905, tanbark from this section was being shipped to Japan, and 2500 cords were burned in the woods. The State high- way misses this valley, as it follows the watercourse from Willits down to the forks of the outlet, thence up the north branch to Long valley.
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Willits has a public library, managed mostly by a society of ladies, though it has masculine representation on its board of trustees. A move is being made at this date to secure aid of Carnegie to erect a suitable library building, which will probably be successful through his known liberality in this direction.
May 5, 1881, an earthquake was felt in the town. The northbound stage was stopped by a deer getting tangled in one of the front wheels in its frightened flight across the road. June 14, 1882, the stage was robbed a few miles from town. Elisha Frost killed a panther measuring ten feet from tip to tip, the largest ever known in the county.
The Daugherty tract, adjoining the town, one hundred and sixty acres, sold for $9,125; much of it has since been cut up into lots. In April, 1885, James Frost was killed by his uncle. Isom Frost, as the result of an old feud, and in the melee Andrew Hamburg was killed by James Frost, under a mis- apprehension. The beginning of the feud dated back to 1865, when one Frost and five Coates were killed near Baechtels, and Martin Frost was killed some years later by James Frost. The only one who was punished was Isom Frost, who served a long term in San Quentin for the killing of James Frost.
The new Baptist Church was dedicated in September, 1885. The same year Hiramı Willits struck gas and oil in a well and laid pipes to his store, but nothing came of it of much benefit. J. L. Broaddus died August 22, 1886, one of the first and best settlers in the valley. In February, 1887, two earthquakes were felt in two successive days. There was much complaint about coyotes about this time, and Brower and Hall killed seventeen wild- cats in the year. The stage was again held up in December, 1895, and in April, 1896, on the grade north of Willits, it was found upset, pinning the driver under it dead, and everything combustible burned.
In 1898 Willits was devastated by fire, burning off nearly all the east side of the main street, including the Odd Fellows two-story hall. Loss, $30,000. The average rainfall for the months of September and October in the valley is one inch and two and a half inches, respectively. In September, 1900, William Ellis, superintendent of the Eden Valley ranch, drove his team into the "Black Pool" on the road north. and the horses were engulfed in quick- sand. The Northwestern Redwood Company built their large mill, and No- vember 15, 1901, the railroad reached Willits. A flagpole one hundred feet high was erected to celebrate the occasion. December 21 the stage was again held up. but the robber only realized $1.75. Jaspar Christy, the driver. caused the arrest of two of his passengers for using bad language-an un- heard-of proceeding before this date-$100 fine. June 12 fire destroyed the business part of town, fourteen buildings, loss $30,000. Palace Hotel, a two- story brick, completed by Charles Whited December 6. A. W. Foster bought the Willits & Johnson farm, 259 acres, for $42 an acre. The Hotel Willits, built thereon, opened March 23. 1902. Buckner hotel, two story brick, opened the same month, was completely destroyed by the earthquake of 1906. E. H. Harriman inspected the Northwestern railroad with a view to purchase May 20. August 25 first serious accident occurred on the railroad, on the exten- sion to Sherwood. Locomotive ran away, ditched; five were killed and four injured, employes. Fire company organized in September. Willits Water Company incorporated in October. April, 1903, rumors of the transfer of railroad to Harriman interests. which continued at intervals for some years,
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until finally consummated in 1907. Electric light schedule promulgated: Residence, $1 for three lights; hotels, fifty cents each up to twenty-five lights ; stores, first two $1, excess forty cents each. June, 1903, report of trustees on new school house and furniture totaled $8,702. California Northwestern Railroad report for the year: Gross earnings, $1,222,554.95; operating ex- pense, $858,746.50; other expense, $312,433.76; net, $51,374.80. October, wool shipped by Irvine & Muir, 37,000 pounds. Average rainfall for October twenty-seven years, 6.59 inches. November 30, rain to date, 20.67 inches. Survey from the bay to Eureka by the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe fin- ished August, '04. High School organized. Valuation of town, $893,101. Tax rate forty cents. Eight thousand cords of tan bark shipped at $12 valuation. In the Northwestern yard, 4,000,000 feet of select lumber. Ir- vine & Muir's yard, 2,000,000 feet. Mohn's store burned February 9, 1905; loss $10,000, insurance $2600. Frank Brown made 30,000 shakes from one redwood tree, which sent out numerous sprouts after he was done work on it. Mrs. Mary Broaddus died October 24, 1906, one hundred and two years of age, one of the first white women in the valley. May, 1907, railroad com- pleted ten miles to Sherwood. Willits News passed into the hands of F. N. Loring. Ordinance passed to the effect that only eight saloons should be allowed in the town, whenever the superfluous ones should be eliminated down to that number; license to be sufficient to yield $3200 revenue. The Northwestern mortgaged to the amount of $35,000,000 June, 1907. Authorita- tive assertion of joint ownership of the same by Southern Pacific and Atchi- son, Topeka and Santa Fe.
Gas and petroleum struck near town. An oil well was sunk 275 feet, with no astounding effect. Tax rate seventy-five cents. Work on extension of railroad toward Eureka on a three-mile contract begun in November, but shut down December 20. Little Lake Herald leased to Bourke & Carlyle, who ran it about a year. July, 1908, right of way mostly secured for rail- road extension. Bonds voted, $30,000, for high school building. Construc- tion ordered on extension of railroad north between Shively and Dyerville, seven miles, estimated to cost $3,000,000. A company formed to bore for oil, gas or coal August 12, 1907. The Northwestern Redwood Company purchased 500 goats. Artesian water and a strong flow of gas from a well on the east side of the valley. Northwestern Railroad Company offered the town a lot for a hall. The Willits Oil Development Company incorporated with $50,000 capital February, 1908. June 7, public library trustees appointed and a ladies' band organized. Auto stages put on line north. Survey of wagon road down the "Outlet" accepted. January, 1909, fire alarm system with sixteen boxes installed. April 5th, $30,000 sewer bond election carried and bonds sold for $30,711. December 31 stage connection with the Fort Bragg railroad at Irmulco, eleven miles from Willits. January, 1909, in- ventory of lumber in Northwestern Railroad Company yard footed up 10,- 000,000 feet. February 23, train wreck on Sherwood branch, several injured. Automobile service to connect with Fort Bragg train. Sewer contract let at $17,312.95. Orders from Harriman to proceed with construction of rail- road extension to Eureka from both ends; $10.00,000 appropriated for the work, September 17. De Camp creamery installed a 150-pound churn. H. C. Wade died November 22; claimed to have been in valley in 1853. A 40-inch turbine installed at Northwestern mill for the generation of electricity.
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Midland Lyceum course inaugurated. Methodist Episcopal Church dedi- cated.
June, 1910, Fort Bragg stage upset, one killed, three badly injured, of whom one died later from the effects of the injuries. The railroad let con- tract to clear timber from right of way down the Outlet, about eight miles. It is expected to produce 16,000,000 feet of lumber. Northwestern mill erected sheds in town for 1,000,000 feet of lumber. Storm sewer flooded. Gold and slate rock discovered west of town.
January, 1911, mining corporation formed, $250,000 capital. April 4, · four and one-tenth inches of rain fell. New road to Potter Valley. North- western Pacific put up a 30-000-gallon water tank in railroad yard. Heaviest grade on survey to Eureka seven-tenths per cent, heaviest curve ten degrees. Longvale thirteen miles; Dos Rios fourteen miles further, to Round valley road. Gap in Fort Bragg rail connection closed December 19. Northwestern Railroad Company built a reservoir on hill north of town of 110,000 gallons, auxiliary for fire purposes. Thirty-one new buildings erected in town in 1912. School bonds for new school house in the Daugherty addition sold at a premium. Half acre of potatoes yielded 8600 pounds. November 5, heavy rain washed 50,000 feet of logs out of Irmulco dam. February, 1912. saloons ordered by ordinance to close Sundays, and from one to five a. m. week-days; license to be $600 per annum. In 1913 tunnel on Fort Bragg road burned out for 300 feet. The winter of 1913 was particularly disas- trons to the railroads in the section, owing to the extreme high water. The Fort Bragg road was shut off for several days by slides and the burning of the tunnel. The California Northwestern was blocked both north and south ; in the north for several days.
In the southern part of the township is Walker valley, a veritable para- dise in summer. It is an estate of about 15,000 acres, and the central valley contains about 300 acres of fine land, and was originally four pre-emption claims. In this valley the former proprietor, W. W. Van Ansdale, sowed a large acreage of alfalfa. This he irrigated by means of standpipes and spray nozzles, by water collected from springs by pipes leading to a central reservoir on the hill. A fine, large, modern residence and outbuildings were erected, and death intervened just as he had begun to live. As this mag- nificent domain is virtually a game preserve, one may imagine the number of deer which make it their refuge before and during the open season. Trout abound in its waters, and it has always been the mecca of anglers who are permitted within its bounds.
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