USA > California > Mendocino County > History of Mendocino and Lake counties, California, with biographical sketches of the leading, men and women of the counties who have been identified with their growth and development from the early days to the present > Part 8
USA > California > Lake County > History of Mendocino and Lake counties, California, with biographical sketches of the leading, men and women of the counties who have been identified with their growth and development from the early days to the present > Part 8
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March 15, 1911, the library issued one hundred and thirty borrowers' cards, received $50 in donations, and ordered one hundred and seventeen vol- umes. In April a reinforced concrete jail was erected, and to render it useless, nine grammar school teachers were employed. Five fire alarm stations were located. In October an election was held on the liquor question and the town went "wet" by one hundred and nineteen majority. September report of the librarian showed that six hundred and eighty-two books were given out ; attendance, 1,120. The town now had four school buildings, fifteen teachers, four hundred and seventy-five pupils; school property valued at $27,000. December 15, 1911, the rails were laid into Willits and an excur- sion of one hundred and fifty celebrated the occasion. J. G. French was made superintendent of the road, the "California Western Railroad and Naviga- tion Company."
The twenty-fourth anniversary of the Red Men's lodge was held May 11, 1912. The new bank building, of reinforced concrete, was finished June 8th. On the 28th the steeple of the Baptist church, ninety feet high, fell. The Atlas Tank company was incorporated to build redwood tanks. British tramp steamer, St. Kilda, loaded with one million feet of lumber for Aus- tralia.
An election was held October 7. 1912, for issuing bonds to build or pur- chase city water works. The local works were offered at $75,000. The town has offered $30,000 for the plant which has been refused. Library building completed, 35×55 feet; wood, with mezzanine floor, $2,500. M. T. Smith, an old pioneer, died January 24, 1912. The new Baptist church dedicated March 13, 1913.
Cleone, north of Fort Bragg six miles, has a chute and wharf, difficult to maintain, but which has done a great deal of business in tie, bark and pile shipping. There have been two mills in the timber east of the road, but the other business proving more profitable, they were closed down. It once
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supported quite a business village, with several saloons; now a store, black- smith shop and half a dozen dwellings comprise the town. It is the frontier of quite a large body of fine agricultural land, extending to and north of Ten Mile river to Kibesilah, another has-been town. Between is a shipping point, Newport, once the outlet for what is now the Fort Bragg mill, then located on Ten Mile river. Near here are three large dairies which supply the home demand for butter. Kibesilah once boasted two hotels, two stores, as many or more bars, and did quite a business in shipping lumber, ties, bark and posts, but nothing is now left but a small dwelling recently erected on the ashes of the last old relic of its former prosperity.
Just south of Newport stood the old reservation headquarters, long the residence of E. J. Whipple. It was destroyed by fire in 1913. There is a large body of fine land stretching along the coast from Cleone or Inglenook to Chadbourne' Gulch, the north line of the township. We may suppose that before the timber is gone improved methods of farming, clearing up the brush land, the use of kelp as a fertilizer, and man's ingenuity will so far increase production, that the towns will be supported by the productions of the earth.
New industries, or applications of the old material, are continually springing up. The waste about a sawmill in the old days amounted to fully one-third of a log, and sometimes one-half. Now it does not average one- fourth. Shingle blocks, short lumber, pickets, etc., use up much that for- merly went over to the burning heap. Now the mills are universally fitted with machinery to cut up the edging and broken boards for engine fuel, and the sawdust, that many of them also use for fuel, is now being kiln dried, put into drums made for the purpose at the mill, and shipped to Fresno to be filled with grapes and sent east for cold storage until the holiday trade begins. The grapes net $60 to $70 per ton in this way. The Union Lumber company has the finest building of wood north of San Francisco, and per- haps in the state, which is completely stocked in department style. It is one hundred and twenty feet front and depth, finished in natural wood with maple floor. Repeated requests obtained no details of construction or ar- rangements.
Glen Blair is another suburb of Fort Bragg. It is situated.on Pudding creek, six miles inland by rail, and is simply a mill village, supported by employes of the Glen Blair Mill company. The mill is one of the best on the coast, 60,000 feet capacity, and ships its lumber through Fort Bragg's port. It originally had the finest body of timber on the coast; many logs had to he blasted before being brought from the woods. It was built by Captain Blair soon after Fort Bragg was in operation and in charge of Alex Mc- Callum, run successfully for many years. It is now owned by Glen Blair Mill company and in charge of J. A. Sinclair, one of the principal owners.
Fort Bragg has three banks, all in flourishing condition. The First National has a paid-up capital of $50,000, surplus and undivided profits $19,427. J. E. Weller, president; L. Barnard, vice president; C. R. Weller, cashier ; additional directors, L. J. Scooffy, George Golden, C. F. Hunt.
First Bank of Savings: Capital, $25,000, paid up. Resources, $150,014. L. Barnard, president; George Golden, vice president ; J. E. Weller, cashier ; additional directors, H. P. Plummer, L. J. Scooffy, C. W. Broback, F. Wind- linx.
Fort Bragg Commercial Bank, incorporated March 28, 1912. Paid-up capital, $25,000. Surplus and undivided profits, $3047. Individual deposits,
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$145,726. Total resources, $216,291. C. W. Mathews, president; D. Brandon, vice president ; H. P. Preston, cashier ; Leo Brandon, assistant cashier; addi- tional directors, J. W. Preston, M. H. Iversen, L. C. Gregory, B. A. Lendrum.
Fort Bragg is well represented on the secret society map, and part of them may not be uninteresting to the lodge portion of our subscribers.
Fort Bragg Lodge No. 361, F. & A. M., was organized March 14, 1904. Charter members: W. A. McCornack, John E. Weller, Eric Huggins, H. R. Baum, A. S. Lyman, H. M. Foye, W. B. Ward, J. H. Carlisle, G. H. Stilling, A. H. Shafsky, Chester Woodruff, John W. Cullom. Present officers: J. E. Weller, W. M .; A. A. Lord, S. W .; W. F. Fuller, J. W .; C. R. Weller, Treas .; George Golden, Secy. Number of members, seventy-four.
Fort Bragg Lodge No. 360, I. O. O. F., was organized May 31, 1890. Charter members: Charles Thamer, J. E. Diehl, Louis Nelson, John Ran- dolph, J. A. White, and Valentine Menges. Present officers: Peter Johnson, .N. G .; G. H. Hartman, V. G .; H. J. Dellett, Secy .; O. L. Jolmson, Treas.
Redwood Encampment No. 67, I. O. O. F., was organized February 27, 1899. Charter members: T. O'Connor, S. B. Hatch, George Urquehart, Abraham Shafsky, P. Halvorsen. Present officers: Ed Mann, C. P .; W. Turner, H. P .; E. Ness, S. W .; H. J. Dellett, Scribe; T. F. Johnson, Treas .; P. Ericson, J. W. Number of members, sixty-seven.
Golden West Rebekah Lodge No. 32. I. O. O. F., was organized February 28, 1895. Present officers : Jeannie Murphy, N. G .; May Lewthwaite, V. G .; Alva McLeod, Secy .; Margaret Hopkins, Treas. Number of members, fifty.
Santana Tribe No. 60. I. O. R. M., was organized May 11, 1888. Present officers : H. J. Young, Sachem ; Henry Whipple, Sr. Sagamore ; C. F. Johnson, Jr. Sagamore; J. E. Weller, Keeper of Wampum; George Golden, Chief of Records. Number of members, two hundred and twenty.
Knights of the Maccabees was organized September 18, 1897. Present officers: O. L. Johnson, Commander ; A. Shafsky, Record Keeper. Number of members, thirty-six.
Fort Bragg Aerie No. 833, F. O. E., organized November 10, 1904. Present officers : WV. Bangs, W. P .; L. F. Thompson, V. P .; H. W. Little, C .; W. W. Ware, Secy. Number of members, two hundred and twelve.
Alden Glen Parlor No. 200, N. S. G. W., was organized August 31, 1897. Present officers : W. F. Agnew, P. P .; W. C. Balfour, P .; H. W. Little, Secy .; George P. Purlensky, Treas. Number of members, sixty-eight. Funds in treasury, $2200.
Kalavala Brotherhood was originated and organized in Fort Bragg by Charles Martin, October 28, 1907. Present officers : Oscar Ruuska, Past Pres .; Charles Randis, Pres .: August Rantala, Secy .; John Abrahamson, Treas. Number of members, two hundred and three.
United Ancient Order of Druids (American) was organized July 12, 1906. Present officers : E. S. Belknap; O. L. Johnson, Secy .; H. W. Little, Treas. Number of members, sixty-two.
Croatian Society Narodue H. R. V., Zajednice, was organized in 1907. Present officers: Anton Zruak, Pres .; George Bozicevich, Fin. Secy .; John Buzdon, Rec. Secy .: Mate Sverki, Treas. Number of members, one hundred and seventeen.
Loyal Order of Moose. Present officers: L. C. Gregory, P. D .; J. G. Aylward, D .; E. S. Scott, V. D .; D. J. Donigan, Prelate ; A. T. Lewis, S. of A.
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Degree of Pocahontas: Prophetess. Annie Garholm; Pocahontas, Mrs. Helena Conroy ; Wewonah, Mrs. Mand Agnew; Powhatan, Joe Ferandy ; K. of R., Mrs. Josiah M. Stoddard : K. of W., Mrs. Lucy Carlson. Number of members, eighty-nine.
Redwood Hive No. 32 was instituted August 23, 1898. Present officers : Mrs. Nellie Doyle, L. C .: Mrs. Caldona Allen, P. L. C .; Mrs. Catherine Camp- bell, R. K .; Mrs. Ida R. Johnson, L. A.
W. O. W .: G. W. Taylor, C. C .; W. D. Dolan, A. L .; E. E. Brown. Clerk; J. W. Mathews, Banker. Number of members, seventy-six.
Knights of Pythias: G. W. Taylor, C. C .; E. A. Erickson, A. L .; G. V. Weller, Prelate; E. E. Brown, K. of R .: J. P. Hopkins, M. J. E. Number of members. thirty-six.
Sapphire Chapter, O. E. S., was instituted April 25, 1905. Present offi- cers: Alice M. Pensol, W. M. ; Anna E. Milliken, A. M. W .; Emma E. Brown, Secy .; Harriet R. Huggins, Treas .; W. F. Fuller, W. Patron. Number of . members, seventy-five.
Kalavala Sisterhood No. 1, was organized at Fort Bragg March 12, 1897. Its first officers were Mrs. Matilda Aulin, Pres .; Miss Fiina Karjanaki. V. P .; James Marttin, P. M .; Evelina Kemppe, Secy .; Sophie Hellen, Treas. Present officers: Lena Guinnerus, P .; Sigrid Karjanaki. V. P .; Olga Karvonen, P .; Elima Lehtemaki, Secy .; Lizzie Abrahamson, Treas. Number of members, sixty-nine.
Mendocino Grove No. 105, U. A. O. D., was instituted in 1912. M. Domeriguez, D. D .; P. Farilli, N. A .; E. Corelli, F. Secy .; J. A. Simonin, R. S. Present membership, two hundred and seventeen.
The weather clerk reports an unusually severe winter 1913-14. Higher tides, heavier winds, and more rainfall than have occurred in years, 46.62 inches to March 21, with some inches to date since then.
CHAPTER VI Ukiah Township
This township lies in a valley of Russian river and is bounded by quite abrupt ranges both east and west, and north and south respectively by Sanel and Little Lake townships, and for a short distance by Potter, on the north. It was practically all included within the lines of Yokaya grant, save a narrow strip of mountain land on each side, not considered worth surveying by the grant claimants. And yet this worthless land is now selling at $15 to $20 per acre, and being transformed into vineyards.
The soil of the valley consists of the river loam, black clover land, gravelly wash from the hills, and the gravelly sandy formation of most of the hills of the county.
The climate is unsurpassed in California, while the summers develop heat sufficient to bring the mercury in exceptional days up to 110 degrees, yet the cool nights at 50 degrees, and invigorating mornings, fit the citizen for the labors of the day, which the more even temperature of the eastern climate does not affect. The dryness of the air in summer, devoid of the damp · sultriness of the eastern climate, makes this degree of heat endurable even for the hard work of the harvest field. while the toiler ever finds the cooling
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influence of a shade, and the ever daily recurring breeze, sufficient to prevent complaint. The lowest known temperature has been 12 degrees above, and this only once in the fifty years that a record has been kept. The usual limit is 24 degrees, with an occasional drop to 19 or 21 degrees on off years.
Products
The great variety of fruit and general products of the township is suffi- cient to demonstrate its fertility and climate. Grain of all kinds, including corn, luxuriates, fruit of all kinds indigenous to the temperate zone is raised in profusion, while many of the tropical ones find a congenial home in the valley and foothills. Heavy spring rains, or late frosts, sometimes curtail the amount of fruit, but a total failure has never been recorded. The varying elevations and exposures always insure a liberal supply for every valley. Prunes, plums, pears, cherries, apples, are always in evidence, with peaches and apricots in favored localities, berries everywhere, and oranges, lemons and olives wherever they have been tried.
The township reaches from the 25 mile post (from county line) to the head of Redwood valley, and includes Ukiah valley, Coyote valley and Red- wood valley, being about twenty-seven miles north and south and about twenty miles east and west, the west line being at the intersection of the Hot Springs and Low Gap roads. East of Ukiah valley the mountain is heavily clad with brush, and a good part on the west, except at the northern and southern part where the country presents more grazing land. It includes nearly all the tributaries of Russian river except Walker valley, Potter, and the Cold creek region.
Ukiah valley is about ten miles long and from half a mile to two miles wide, with occasional glades running up the incoming streams. On the hills grow the various woods indigenous to California, several kinds of oak, fir, limited bodies of redwood, pine, madrona, tan oak, chestnut oak, manzanita, and the smaller woods or brush, such as hazel, chemissal, blue blossom, moun- tain mahogany, nutmeg, yew, laurel, etc., cover the mountains and fill the canons. The white oaks of the valley often obtain a diameter of six feet, with a branch spread of one hundred and fifty feet, while the golden oak of the canon grows to the size of four feet, and height of one hundred and fifty feet or more. The redwoods grew only in a few of the stream heads on the western side of the valley, and have practically been exterminated. It seemed merely an overflow of the dense forests of the western slope of the range, and came no farther than the limit of the fog drift from the coast.
Early Settlement
Conflicting authorities differ as to the date and personality of the first really white settlers of the township, but Dr. Vallejo, son of General Vallejo, certainly must be as near correct as any one not here at the time. In an article recently published, he mentions the fact that in 1835, "Captain Sepul- vedo Vallejo came up with Spanish troops to procure Indians to work on adobe houses and forts then being built at Sonoma. That later other expedi- tions were here to procure children to enslave. In 1848, Don Timothy Murphy and James Black sent John Parker to Ukiah valley with horses and cattle, who located at Robertson creek. In the spring of 1850 Parker was seriously injured, as he said, by Indians, while the latter asserted that Parker was run over by a band of horses when he was lying asleep. His jaw was broken,
GIBSON'S DRUG STORE
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Standley SY
State St- UKiah
Court House - Ukiah
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and the Indian chief, Cyotiwexo, kept him alive for some time by adminis- tering liquid food through a reed. The chief's son, Guadaloupe, carried word to Murphy, who sent his major-domo, John Knight, to bring Parker and the stock back to San Rafael. Parker died in Peru." Yet others have asserted that Parker was living in the valley as late, or early as 1852-3. Colonel La Motte passed through the valley in 1854, and says some white man was then living in the same location.
Samuel Lowry arrived in the valley in 1856 and located at what is now the corner of Main and Perkins streets, declaring a homestead. In April, 1857, A. T. Perkins and family moved in, and bought out Lowry. In this year also came G. B. Mathers, Berry Wright, John Burton, L. M. Ruddick, T. F. Beattie, and W. J. Cleveland. The following spring witnessed an influx of settlers, among whom may be named H. Standley, M. C. Briggs, G. C. Smith, J. B. Lamar, D. Gobbi, S. W. Haskett, William Neely Johnson, Lew Warden, J. R. Moore, Dr. Price. Later by a year or two came the Gibsons, G. W., T. J., A. J., and Robert ; R. McGarvey, E. R. Budd, William Henry, John Ontis, W. B. Hagans, M. Hooper, R. Stevens, W. H. White, M. W. Howard, J. W. Morris, Sam Ackerman, and about seventy-five others, enough to deter- mine Ukiah as the county seat at the election called in May, 1859. Of all those that were known to be here at that date only I. C. Reed, Berry Wright, T. J. Gibson, J. P. Smith and John Ontis are known to be now living.
The name Ukiah is a corruption of the Indian name Tokya, and is so variously spelled on letters daily received at the post office that one wonders how they find their way here. The history of the township embodies that of the town, and so intimately are they interwoven that an attempt to treat them separately would occasion much repetition.
The Grant
Covered as it was by the Yokaya grant, in its entirety, the progress of the community was in a measure restrained on account of the uncertainty of title to the land. The confirmation of the grant title in the United States district court on December 18, 1862, settled the matter, but the sale of the land only began in earnest in May, 1866. In February, 1861, Julia E. Rogers, O. Schle- singer, William Neely Johnson, E. R. Budd, Robert McGarvey and others secured bonds for deeds to lots in or adjoining the town, the first actual full deed from the grant owners being made to J. H. Laughlin, December 14, 1867, for one hundred and ninety acres for the sum of $1000. The same date S. B. Edsall obtained a deed to two hundred acres for $800; T. F. Beattie, three hundred and sixty-three acres for $1180; T. J. Faught, three hundred and twenty-five acres for $1430; December 16, P. Mankens, one hundred and seven acres for $900 (this latter piece is now held at $11,000) ; A. T. Perkins, sixty-six acres for $1100; J. R. Short, one hundred and sixty-three acres for $1500; December 17, H. P. Benton, two hundred and eight acres, $2233 (what is now the Redemeyer and Sandford ranches). As these are average ranches for soil and location, the price ranged from $2 to $11 per acre.
The first deed placed on record in the books of the county clerk was from Louis Pena and wife, Beatrice Pena, to Richard Harrison, of date May 23. 1859. of five hundred acres in Sanel Valley for the sum of $2000. The second deed was of date May 27, 1859, from Richard Harrison, conveying two hun- dred and thirty acres of the same land to Beatrice Pena for $1400. June 1, 1859, F. B. Gardner deeded one-fourth interest each in the Star Ranch, Knights
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valley, to W. W. Star and J. B. Bowen, nineteen hundred and forty acres, for $4000. This gives one a fair idea of land values at that early day. Lots in Ukiah sold at $20 up. E. R. Budd's ten-acre tract in the southern border of the town was priced at $25 an acre. At a later date, when the remnants of the grant passed into the ownership of Doolan and McGarvey, the poorest land was sold at $2.50 per acre, and blocks in the western part of town for $200 to $250 each.
The first hotel in the town was built by Harrison Standley on the south- west corner of Main and Standley streets, in 1859. It has twice been moved bodily, to the southeast corner of Standley and State streets, and back again. and torn down in 1913. It had been on fire a score of times, yet never seri- ously injured thereby. As before related, the upper story of a building on the east side of Main street, a little south of Standley street, was used as a court house and for county offices until a brick court house was built, at a cost of $9000 for building and furnishing. It was finished, accepted and occupied January 24, 1860.
In November, 1860, E. R. Budd, for some years publisher of the Sonoma Democrat in Santa Rosa, established the Mendocino Herald, in Ukiah, where it held sway for many years. Democratic though its proprietor had always been, yet the paper from its inception espoused the Union cause, and from that, at the close of the war, became Republican. During 1863-4 A. O. Car- penter was associated in its publication. In July, 1865, E. D. Pepper suc- ceeded to the management of the Herald for a short time.
July 2, 1863, a Democratic paper was first published, with A. T. Perkins & Co. as ostensible proprietors, and William Holden as editor, with "Consti- tutional Democrat" for the cognomen. The Hon. Holden thereafter was nicknamed "Constitutional Bill." February 19, 1865, another paper was launched on the suffering public under the name of Mendocino County Demo- crat, with Mat Lynch as editor and proprietor. These last two papers were merged into one, and for some years was run by Mat Lynch. Differences arose between Lynch and the Democracy and he was forced out of the paper by financial pressure, and it became the Mendocino Democrat, and under Alex Montgomery in 1870 absorbed the Herald, thus leaving the Republican party without an organ. In October, 1873. Mat Lynch again essayed the role of journalist and began the publication of the Democratic Weekly Dispatch. Dying in February, 1874, his widow. Mrs. Belle Lynch, assumed the control. editorial and business, of the paper, and made it decidedly spicy and energetic. Untoward circumstances forced her out of its management in March, 1878. and Gambee & Hoffman published it until August, when Hoffman retired and E. B. Gambee remained sole owner. An unfortunate article clipped from the Argonaut proved his undoing, and in July, 1879. C. J. Williams assumed control of its destinies. April. 1880, Peabody & Sefton purchased it, and conducted it for some years, when A. W. Sefton sold out to his partner, who assumed its sole management until 1889, when he sold to John Buckingham. In July, 1896. Buckingham died, and the paper was managed by M. Baechtel, with Mr. Kertley as editor, and was by him sold to J. B. Sanford in 1898. In 1913 Mr. Sanford associated with himself E .. P. Thurston, who had for some years virtually conducted the paper. It is intensely Democratic, has a large sub- scription list, good job office, linotype machine, and power press.
·
In July, 1877, E. J. Handley issued the first number of the Ukiah City Press, and continued it until October. 1878. when he departed for unknown
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territory, leaving the paper in charge of his foreman, who surrendered it to the mortgagee, the latter selling it to A. O. Carpenter. It had a subscription list of about three hundred and was weakly in every respect. Close applica- tion to its business department, and diligence in seeking news and new sub- scribers caused it to flourish, and in a year's time it was on a firm basis, with a good list of eight hundred subscribers. In February, 1879, Charles S. Paine became associated in its conduct, paying most of his attention to the typo- graphical department, and two years after bought out Mr. Carpenter. June, 1883, Paine sold to Pope, who ran the Press until 1889, when Mrs. Pope assumed its responsibilities and sold to S. Hornbrook. June, 1891, Thatcher & Paxton assumed control; S. J. Matthews, Poundstone & Matthews, suc- ceeded in close order, until 1895, when it was issued by the Press Publishing Company, headed by J. M. Mannon; then in 1896 Alf. Pennington's name appeared at the head of its columns; 1898 Pennington & White appeared as its directors ; 1902 J. M. Mannon was again its ostensible owner ; 1903 White & Stanley took charge of it, and shortly after W. O. White's name was blazoned on the paper and the windows of its office, and it has since continued acceptable to the rank and file of the party it represents, and the public in general. It issues two thousand copies and has a power press and Intertype machine and full outfit for fine job work.
The Times, another weekly, has had an exceedingly varied experience. It is hard to say who its progenitor was, as it has been grafted upon several sporadic efforts at journalism. The Ukiah Independent of Hunter & Whitton, the Mendocino Republican by C. Huse, the Herald by Herzinger, the Saturday Night by Broback, may all be counted among its ancestors. Finally it fell into the hands of George H. Rhodes, who let go of it soon after the election of WV. H. Kent to Congress. Since then it has been successively in the hands of Marlow, Halliday, Adams, and now is run by Keller & Hufft, two young men who have grown up with the town. It also has a job office, power press, and linotype.
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