History of Mendocino and Lake counties, California, with biographical sketches of the leading, men and women of the counties who have been identified with their growth and development from the early days to the present, Part 5

Author: Carpenter, Aurelius O., 1836-; Millberry, Percy H., 1875- joint author
Publication date: 1914
Publisher: Los Angeles, Cal., Historic record company
Number of Pages: 1090

USA > California > Mendocino County > History of Mendocino and Lake counties, California, with biographical sketches of the leading, men and women of the counties who have been identified with their growth and development from the early days to the present > Part 5
USA > California > Lake County > History of Mendocino and Lake counties, California, with biographical sketches of the leading, men and women of the counties who have been identified with their growth and development from the early days to the present > Part 5

Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).

MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES

miles up the river. At this date the mill property has passed into the hands of E. B. Salsig & Co. and the mill is being rebuilt. In 1864 Russell Stevens built a mill in Fish Rock gulch almost down to tide water. Its capacity was about 13,000 feet per day. It did not run long, for the machinery had all been taken away in 1866. In 1869 a mill was erected a mile or two north of Gualala by John Woods, cutting about 16,000 feet per diem. It was destroyed by fire in 1872, rebuilt, moved further north, run a short time, and was moved away.

In 1875 a mill was built at Schooner gulch by A. Saunders, who also built a shingle mill on Brush creek. A big business was done by these two mills for a number of years, until Saunders failed, and departed, taking with him thousands of dollars of the hard-earned wages of his employes that had been entrusted to his keeping. Nealon & Young succeeded him in the Schooner Gulch mill, and ran it until 1878. The Brush creek mill was run by the creditors, increasing its capacity somewhat, but it proved unprofitable and was dismantled and sold.

A mill was built in Galloway gulch in 1869, cutting 50,000 per day, run for three years, and departed. L. B. Doe & Co. erected a mill at Signal Port about this time, that was supplied with logs by hauling them up a long hill by steam power. It only ran a couple of years. Another was built in China gulch, lived its brief ephemeral life and left a pile of sawdust as its monu- ment. About this time Ross & Francis were running a small mill on their own premises southeast of the town about two miles. They ran a couple of years.

In 1904 an epidemic of mills struck the neighborhood. Anderson put in a 25,000 capacity mill; Grace another about the same size; Bowen another, but all passed away in three or four years. Albert Brown equipped a 15,000 foot mill east of town in 1904, which ran one summer. At present there are no saw mills in operation for forty miles along the coast, and Point Arena is hauling its supply of lumber eighteen miles. In 1869 and '70, Stevens & Whitmore built a mill on the Garcia river six miles from Point Arena. In 1872 they sold to Nickerson & Baker, who ran it for several years, cutting about 40,000 per day. The lumber was floated down a flume six miles to the foot of the bluff opposite the port, and there carried up the hill by means of spiked rollers in a dry flume or track, where it was placed on cars and rail- roaded to the head of the chute. After a few years run the mill was pur- chased by the L. E. White Lumber Co. and was burned down in 1894, having been idle some time. As the company has 25,000 acres of timber land in the watershed of the river, this mill will undoubtedly be rebuilt at no distant day, and probably a railroad built to convey either logs or lumber or both, according to where the mill is built.

A mill was built at Bridgeport in 1874 and run on lumber, and later shingles, for several years. It passed through several hands, and was finally moved away. In 1870 a mill was put in on the Garcia about eight miles from its mouth, called Riverside, which ran several years and went up in smoke, as did most of the profits.

A paper mill, to run on oat straw, was put in on Brush creek, and ran for ten years; at first profitable on straw at $2.50 per ton; however, the farmers raised the price to $7 and the mill closed down and moved away.

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Secret Societies

One may to a certain extent judge a country town by the number and character of its secret societies. Point Arena is fairly prosperous in this line, though some have decayed and lost standing by reason of deaths and removals. The Free and Accepted Masons organized the first lodge, Clai- borne Lodge No. 185, F. & A. M., on June 14, 1867, with the following charter members: R. D. Handy, S. W. Randolph, Niels Iverson, N. D. Witt, William Cushings, Charles Lyman, Alph Harris and F. W. Watrous. At the present day the lodge is in an exceedingly prosperous condition, and numbers fifty- one members, with the following officers: Henry Howe, W. M .; F. W. Reynolds, S. W .; B. H. Baker, J. W .; John Clark, treasurer; Frank L. Emory, secretary.

Garcia Lodge No. 240, I. O. O. F., was instituted January 4, 1876, with the following charter members: P. Peters, W. H. Cureton, L. F. Spaulding, D. M. Ketchum, N. Iverson and J. B. M. Warren. The lodge has fought its way against adverse conditions, the decline of the mill and timber business coming upon the community soon after its organization, but is now on a firm basis, and steadily growing from accessions from the ranks of young manhood. In conjunction with the Masons in 1880, they erected a two-story building, 24x60, which was dedicated May 29, 1880, the Masons joining them in the erection of the same. The earthquake of 1906 entirely demolished the building, and the next year it was replaced by a reinforced concrete. The present officers are: Henry Howe, N. G .; A. H. Clark, V. G .: William Hanen, secretary ; J. C. Halliday, treasurer.

Arena Encampment No. 75, I. O. O. F., was instituted May 18, 1886, with charter members as follows: Joseph Lufkin, P. C. P .; C. W. Tindall, J. L. Woodin. Le Grand Morse, Jacob Cohn, Aaron Newfield, John Hurst, W. C. Cartnell, J. D. McCabe, Charles Meirs, F. W. Goodwin, H. L. Estes, C. M. Cartwright, S. W. Collins, Joseph Tongue, John Widden, H. B. Scott, H. S. Symonds, H. Tullener, J. S. Larson, Frank Groshong, C. Christensen, William Heywood, E. M. Stuart, E. N. Donaldson. The Encampment has lived and prospered through all the dull times succeeding the birth of the Encampment. It now has the following officers: E. A. Zimmerman, C. P .; H. B. Scott. H. P .; A. Christensen, S. W .; W. Haines, Scribe; C. Nicks, treasurer ; H. Tullener, I. W.

Native Sons, Broderick No. 117, was instituted January 9, 1888, with the following list of charter members: C. W. Tindall, C. Hunter, T. O. Cal- laghan, W. O. Davis, T. Roseman, G. Smith, William Brandt, R. Caughey, F. Watrous, E. Arthur, P. Chane, H. L. Estes, S. Hunter, C. M. Cartwright. H. Smith, G. Miller, F. Handy, R. Crawford, W. Myers, F. Arthur. It now has a membership of thirty-three, with the following officers: . F. W. Rey- nolds, J. P. P .; E. A. Zimmerman, treasurer; J. P. Connor, J. P .; W. E. Carey, secretary

Order of Eastern Star was instituted May 30, 1910, as Point Arena Chapter 291, with the following charter members: Rev. E. E. Robbins, WV. P .; Matilda Davidson, W. M .; Kate Halliday, A. W. M .; Florence Halli- day, Con .; J. R. Neto, Sec .; Mabel Neto, Matilda Robbins, Olive Robbins, James Dunn, Phoebe Dunn, Bessie Halliday, J. C. Halliday, C. F. O'Brien. Louise O'Brien, Ethel Hathaway, Anna Iverson, Emma Watrons, Mary A. Burroughs, Margarethe Dunn, Henry Halliday. For 1913 it has the

MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES

following officers: Lettie Zimmerman, W. M .; Jacob Kingren, W. P .; Flora Hunter, A. M .; Pearl Emery, secretary ; fifty-four members. There are other societies extant, of which we have no record.

Court Arena No. 8518, Ancient Order of Foresters. Officers: C. R., W. C. Davidson; P. C. R., William Thomas; financial secretary, Newton P. Howe; treasurer, William Carey. Number of members, seventy-eight.

The town of Point Arena was incorporated July 11, 1908, and the present officers are S. W. Ainslie, J. C. Halliday, John Clark, J. W. Kingren (mayor), N. P. Howe, trustees; N. A. McCallum, clerk; J. F. Dixon, marshal; Conrad Nicks, treasurer and recorder. The assessed value of the town for 1913 was $150,964; tax rate, fifty cents per $100. Population 497.

The Bank of Point Arena, No. 338, was incorporated June 9, 1905, with a paid up capital $25,000. Their report for 1913 shows deposits of $87,000, in a volume of business of $119,000. J. C. Halliday is president and P. W. Haggreen cashier.

The building of the lighthouse on the point north of and about three miles northwest of the town was an epoch in the history of the township. The coast, with its abrupt rocky shore, projecting hidden reefs, and treach- erous currents, was dangerous to experienced navigators, and infinitely more so to those new to its waters. The lighthouse was built close out to the end of the point, nautically located in latitude 38° 57' 10" and longitude 123° 44' 42". The light was fixed, stationary, white, and visible nineteen nautical miles at sea. The tower was of brick one hundred and fifty-six feet to the lamp. The earthquake of 1906 entirely destroyed the lenses and so damaged the tower and dwelling house that the government pulled them down and rebuilt them farther inland, as being necessary from the inroads of the sea on the narrow point. The new one is about the same height of the one destroyed, but has a revolving white light four flashes per minute, five seconds duration, five seconds intermission, then twenty seconds inter- mission. It is built of reinforced concrete, the brick of the old one having been thrown over the bank into the ocean. The dwellings were also torn down, and four cottages built at a cost of $6000 each, the whole costing the government about twice what they would a private individual. Twenty-five hundred dollars was put into gravel for the road leading to the lighthouse. A fog signal is also established, run by distillate engine, automatic in its action, dispensing with the services of one man over the old steam engine.

In near vicinity to the lighthouse is a large colony of sea lions. whose hoarse growls may be heard at all hours of the day and night. At one time they were hunted for their oil and hides, but the difficulty and danger, more on account of the location, rather than fear of the lions, caused a cessation of hostilities. They no doubt conduce to the scarcity of fish in their imme- diate neighborhood, though good catches are frequent. In the fall excellent sport is had at the mouth of Garcia river trolling for steelheads from one to two pounds each, and in season trout fishing is excellent.

Like almost every community, Point Arena has its fashionable watering place ; in her case, medicinal, as well. The hot sulphur springs twelve miles up the Garcia river have proved both medicinal and fashionable. Situated in the gorge of the river, with a dense forest of redwood surrounding, it is an ideal place to pass the hot summer months of the interior, or the cold, foggy ones of the coast.

MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES

Of shipwrecks there have been many along the bluff coast of the county, and Point Arena has had more than her share. The beach north of the lighthouse has been a favorite place for old vessels to close their careers, nearly every vessel built in the township, of which there have been several, has come back to die, some before even a full voyage has been made. This fact procured the lighthouse, and in 1903 a life saving station was estab- lished at the port, which at present is in charge of Captain Stitt and eight inen.

The township boasts six creameries, not all running continuously, some private and some public or stock companies. Siples, Stornetti, C. Bishop and H. Bishop are private, and Point Arena, Manchester and Bridgeport are run as public. The Manchester, owned by Beck & Halliday, is the largest and most successful, paying about ten per cent. dividend.

Point Arena has had the usual experience, with most California towns, in being exploited by the ephemeral newspaper ventures. In 1877 John Kester issued the first number of the News, on March 22. November 29 G. S. Affolter and W. P. McClure assumed its responsibility and managed it until May, 1878, when Mr. McClure retired. The following September it bade the community good-bye.

In 1888 H. B. Cartnell founded the Record, and it still continues. It passed into the hands of William Heeser in 1892, and was edited by R. Y. Glidden for some time, and passed into the hands of William Hanen, who assumed its burden in 1892. It fills all the requirements of the town, and is really a credit to it, and the town is also a credit to the paper, for it is seldom so small a place will support a newspaper. From its files much of our information has been gleaned. The office work is done the old-fashioned way, hand-setting type and press. From it we learned that an old settler, William Shoemake, died May 16, 1881 ; he came to Point Arena in 1852 and was one of the provident ones who were in possession of large tracts of land when the grant was finally rejected. He had about 640 acres. August 3. 1881, fire destroyed Iversen hotel, Warren's butcher shop, Lancaster shoe store; loss $13,000, insurance $8000. Wharf changed hands January, 1882, and C. Queen purchased the Fish Rock property. G. Linderoos died June 1, 1885 : he was for many years justice and the legal functionary of the lower coast. Point Arena made great growth in the years 1885-6. On June 3, 1885, the new I. O. O. F. hall was dedicated. The McMullen hotel opened for patrons in 1886, and pottery was made at Fish Rock. B. F. McClure, a prominent citizen and ex-supervisor, died March 15, 1887. Collins' shingle mill was running 100,000 shingles per day. Bessie Everding lost at Bourne's Landing, September 12, 1888; severe earthquake January 25, 1889; Charlotte wrecked on Fish Rock, March 28, 1889; Golden Gate, May 15, 1889; Gualala river eight feet above high water mark, January, 1895; San Francisco and Oakland capitalists propose to build a railroad up the Gualala to Cazadero. Frost spoiled the outlook for a fruit crop in 1892. Five thousand ties were flumed down to the port from the Garcia river, six miles, in one day. March 10. 1893, the John McCullough ashore at Fish Rock, a total wreck. April 3 fire destroyed sixteen buildings in Point Arena; loss $32,000, insurance $10,- 000. Ancient Order of Foresters instituted at Gualala. Rebekah Lodge insti- tuted at Point Arena, but has lapsed. The Point Arena creamery com- pleted. Eight hundred fish were caught in a few hours by a Gualala bull puncher. Thirty-seven sea lions were killed during the year, yielding 250

MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES

gallons of oil. Presbyterian church at Manchester completed. The Gualala mill averaged 175,000 feet per day one week in October. An eighteen-pound carrot was brought into town and a thirty-five pound cabbage. Freshet raised the railroad track over a twelve-foot stump up the Gualala, January 14, 1894, and several houses washed away. A wood and shingle mill ran at Iversen, 1893-'94. Point Arena Creamery made 120,000 pounds of butter, realizing ten per cent. on its stock. Hot Springs opened for guests June 5, 1895. The fog signal was moved inland one hundred and fifty yards. San Benito wrecked on the beach north of town, November 23, 1896. April 11, 1897, fire destroyed store, several cabins and an orphans' home. October 22. Caspar ashore Sander's reef, and several lives lost. April 15, 1898, thirty- two shocks of earthquake; center of disturbance near Navarro. Dr. J. C. Morse died January 1, 1898, and his widow, August 9, 1898. They came across the isthmus horseback in 1852, and to Point Arena in 1859, walking up from Fish Rock, from steamer North America, wrecked there. Schooner Jeanne ashore October 1, 1900. I. O. O. F. hall dedicated. Barbara Harvester lost January 24, 1901. January 30, 1903, Crescent City ashore at Fish Rock ; schooner Davidson ashore at Iversen 31st of March. Gualala hotel burned July 6, 1903. Western Graphite Co., fifteen miles east, ledge traced over half a mile. Oil well said to have been sunk 2250 feet, was abandoned. Electricity introduced July 28, 1905. Two swans killed on the Garcia.

The great earthquake of April 18, 1906, was very severe in Point Arena and vicinity. Every business house in town was a junk heap; every brick totally destroyed; many wood houses badly damaged ; the loss was estimated $100,000. The town was practically rebuilt in two years and incorporated July, 1908. C. D. Robinson died November 6, 1906, aged eighty-four; he settled at Gualala in 1858. Le Grand Morse died February 8, 1907. A destructive rain visited the vicinity in March, 1907, and Garcia bridge went out. High school building completed in Point Arena, 44x60, with ten-foot basement, well, tank and windmill, at a cost of $5,489. J. A. Hamilton died May 20, 1909, aged eighty-two years. Steamer Winnebago wrecked July 31. Point Arena creamery burned September 13, but immediately rebuilt at cost of $7,000. Sixty-two inches of rain in winter of 1908-09. December 5, Elias Miller died, aged one hundred and three.

Elections in ten precincts on the coast on the wet and dry propositions, resulted in increased dry territory. Phoenix steamer blew up off lighthouse. August 13, 1910, three killed. March 10, 1911, high wind took up a plow furrow on N. P. Howe's place and wrapped it around a tree. Schooner Sonoma foundered off the port, crew saved. Oil operations stopped. Free library closed and books turned over to Women's Civic Club. Ladies' band organized February 20. Petition for breakwater to make a harbor of refuge sent Congress. Point Arena high school accredited in 1913. Capt. N. Iversen lied June 15, 1912, aged eighty-two. For many years he was the principal purchaser and shipper from Point Arena. In this connection A. W. Hall should have special mention, as his business ventures in the '60s added materially to the coast's prosperity. Lane Kirkland exhibited forty-two potatoes which weighed 140 pounds, fifty-one which weighed 135 pounds, and six which weighed twenty-four pounds. 3

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CHAPTER IV Big River Township

Originally extending along the coast from Navarro to the northern boundary of the county, Big River township has been curtailed and sub- divided until it now extends only from Salmon creek on the south to Hare creek on the north, a distance of about seventeen miles, and on the east to nearly the line of watershed between interior rivers and the coast streams; or more properly speaking, to the western line of Ukiah and Little Lake townships, being about thirty miles wide. The streams flowing to the ocean are Salmon creek, Albion, Little, Big river, and Caspar. Technically Big river and Albion are navigable rivers, but are only so used in the immediate mouths thereof. These two latter have been used mainly for log driving, and that is almost superseded by railroads, which dump the logs into the booms at the mills. All are heavily timbered on their banks, and to the tops of the ridges there being very little open farming ground on any of them except at the immediate coast and far on the headwaters. Redwood and fir are the lumber trees, oak for tanbark, and madrona for little use save firewood in some places. There are many other kinds of trees, like manzanita, chestnut oak, black oak, post oak, alder along the streams, with blue blossom spring- ing up wherever the timber is removed, soon forming impenetrable thickets. All of these except black and post oak are evergreens, and sprout from the root. making the clearing of land for agricultural purposes a labor of years. Really, the redwood lands should never be cleared, but allowed to reforest for future generations.

Along the immediate coast is a strip of clear land, only second rate in quality as compared with the coast further south, but yielding fair crops of grain and hay and vegetables, but not very good for potatoes on account of persistent cropping with them. Just back of this strip of fertility is a sandy. barren tract covered with dwarf huckleberries and a species of pine that often contents itself with a height of two or three feet, though sometimes eight to ten, and wild rhododendron bushes. This section has lately sprung into prominence as orchard land, though only a white sand soil underlaid with yellow clay. Water is said to be abundant at sixteen to eighteen feet depth, but it cannot add fertility to such soil. All the coast townships have the same climate, cool, foggy at times, the thermometer seldom ranging higher than 85° nor lower than 30°, though there have been exceptions to both. It is modified in many places by the conformation of the headlands and ridges protecting certain locations, so that it is always open to dispute.

Early Settlement

As given heretofore, William Kasten is the first known white settler, who dates from 1850-51. He built a log cabin and claimed the north bank of the bay. In 1851-2 a vessel en route from China to San Francisco was wrecked at Point Cabrillo. News of this was carried down the coast to Bodega, and a party came up to profit by the wreck. They reported on the immense body of redwood to be found on this coast and enlisted the interest of Harry Meiggs, but lately arrived in San Francisco, who at once took advantage of the news and forthwith chartered a vessel, the Ontario, and loaded her with a complete sawmill and sailed for Mendocino bay. Meiggs almost immediately concluded his mill was too small for such magnificent

MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES

timber and sent E. C. Williams east for a more complete and larger mill, which did not arrive on the ground until the following spring, owing to trouble in crossing the isthmus. It was erected on the "point." the logs being hauled up from the river on an incline. Meiggs arrived on the 19th of July, 1852, and with him came J. E. Carlson, William H. Kelly and Capt. D. F. Lansing. J. B. Ford arrived ten days before Meiggs with eight yoke of oxen. As William Kasten claimed the waterfront on the north side of the bay, Meiggs purchased it and paid for it mostly in lumber, with which was built a house for many years occupied by William Heeser as a residence, of course with many additions and improvements. Loyd Beall lived just north of Little River, and sold his place to W. H. Kent, who came in 1852, as also did Gebhard and George Hegemeyer, John C. Byrnes, Robert White, J. P. Simpson and J. Scharf. In years succeeding 1854-5-6, arrived A. F. Mahlman, G. C. Smith, L. L. Gray, James Townsend, Silas Coombs. Ruel Stickney ; 1865-7-8-9, Thomas Walsh, William Heeser, E. W. Blair, F. P. Furlong, J. D. Murray, N. E. Hoak, J. F. Hills, Haskett Severance, James Severance, C. R. Kaisen, A. Heeser followed the tide of immigration. Of these at this date only N. E. Hoak is living. Mrs. W. H. Kent and Mrs. J. F. Hills were the first white women to enter the new settlement. They came by the isthmus in 1855, the second train across; from San Francisco to Petaluma by boat, carriage to Cloverdale, thence horseback through Anderson valley across the mountain to Greenwood, thence up the coast to their destination, arriving in April, 1855. Capt. Peter Thompson settled at Pine Grove, Siegfrid Caspar had a cabin at Caspar Creek, Captain Rundle at Noyo, Mannel Law- rence at Salmon Creek.

The town of Mendocino occupies the southern slope of the point north of the harbor, and is garnished with a veritable forest of windmills. The main streets run east and west and are comparatively level, while the cross streets are steep and often in poor condition. J. F. Hills stocked the first store in 1856. William Heeser followed him soon; then L. Woodward and Captain Rundle, the latter soon retiring. Mr. Woodward amassed a com- petence, though for fourteen years he did not go south of the river, purchas- ing all his stock by letter before the days of drummers. W. H. Kelly also engaged in the store business for many years. J. D. Murray was the first druggist. Eugene Brown engaged in merchandising in 1865 and continued · until 1909. The early experience of Mendocino's merchants in obtaining goods from San Francisco was often heart rending and purse bursting. In December, 1871, Mr. Brown lost a consignment of goods by the wreck of the Brilliant; a duplicate order was lost on the bar at San Francisco; the third order reached him safely. Other merchants lost heavily in the numerous shipwrecks prior to 1870, there being thirty of record up to that date. The most disastrous as to loss of life were the Chilian vessel La Paz ; the Cabot, twelve lives lost ; and a small schooner of one hundred and fifty tons which was sucked into the "blow hole" on the south side of the bay. As she went into the cavern several of her crew were rescued by ropes in the hands of Charley Carlson and W. H. Kelly. Many have doubted the truth of this story, but it is authenticated by the best of evidence, and the cavern has been explored by Eugene Brown and others. It has been reported to be of great length, but actually one hundred and fifty feet. The night of Novem- ber 20, 1865, was memorable as that of the most disastrous storm known on this coast, when ten vessels went ashore on the Mendocino coast.

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Among the early settlers of Mendocino who led long and useful lives might be mentioned J. B. Ford, D. F. Lansing, W. H. Kelly, E. C. Williams, S. W. Hills, Eugene Brown, D. B. Millikin, all enterprising, public-spirited citizens, only two of whom are now living -- Millikin and Eugene Brown. William Heeser bought of W. H. Kelly for $6,000, in 1858, the farm so long owned by him, and probably the first to be cultivated in the township. It comprised all the point west of Main street save a strip next that street which Mr. Kelly reserved for town lots. It is still held by Mr. Heeser's son, except such portion as has been sold for town lots. As early as 1863 Mendo- cino possessed gcod hotels. on Main street, and several were built later. At that date there were Carlson's, Osborne & Heldt, and the St. Nicholas kept by Ben Severance, which latter was burned October 20, 1870, and with it twenty-five other buildings, the only serious fire the town has ever had. Recently a pipe and tank system of water has been installed, which will be sufficient for any ordinary fire. The town is lighted by electricity, brought from Ft. Bragg by Henshaw, Buckley & Co. in 1899. Within the last two years the town or rather precinct has voted on prohibition twice, which was successful both times, and it is predicted that it will always stay "dry," so satisfactory has the experiment proved to both the business men and the people. As one landlady expressed the result, "I do not do quite so much business, but I get my money for what I do." The merchants also express themselves in similar terms as to compensation, but assert increase of business.

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History of Mendocino and Lake counties, California, with biographical sketches of the leading, men and women of the counties who have been identified with their growth and development from the early days to the present, Part 5

Author: Carpenter, Aurelius O., 1836-; Millberry, Percy H., 1875- joint author Publication date: 1914 Publisher: Los Angeles, Cal., Historic record company Number of Pages: 1090

Author: Carpenter, Aurelius O., 1836-; Millberry, Percy H., 1875- joint author
Publication date: 1914
Publisher: Los Angeles, Cal., Historic record company
Number of Pages: 1090