USA > California > San Benito County > History of San Benito County, California : with illustrations descriptive of its scenery, farms, residences, public buildings, factories, hotels, business houses, schools, churches, and mines : with biographical sketches of prominent citizens > Part 33
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Among the edifices erected in Upper California by the mis- sionary fathers, that of San Carlos was one of the best iu style and material. There were good ideas of architectural form in the head that planned this solid building. The two great towers gave an air of dignity to the vast construction, and one sees, now that ruin has overtaken them, what it cannot be merely fanciful to suppose was intentional with the designer, that there is a prevailing slope of the walls of the main build- ing from the ground to the roof, so that the general form of the church, seen ut vol d'oiseau, recalls that of a mound, the very shape of the Syrian Mount Carmel. It is a nolde build- ing, standing in a landscape full of enchanting beauties.
Around the church, often in the form of a square, were situ- ated the habitations of the fathers and their household servants, and the various workshops, store-houses and granaries; and beyond these, again, at the distance of one or two hundred yards, stood the huts of the Indians. The dwellings of the priests and their people, and the store-houses, were constructed . of the adobes, or sun-dried bricks, and covered with brick tiles.
Th hats of the Iulian. were gomeraly I miei of a few posters with on and stuck in the ground and the ather lent toward the center " as to mak a kul of cone, and the were covered with no ls and grass The whole ving was fre. quently inclure by an al de wall
BEAUTIFUL DAY IN MONTEREY
The broad lasy furni he's the safest and lust lusting and yachting on the waters of the Pacific tithing is more amply repaid in sport ail profit than at any other fishing -ground within the range of our knowledge The chief novelty in this lite to the stranger, however, is that in which he can inke nu active part the whale-fishing For twenty five years of more this has been a whaling station, and thousands of the masters of the deep have Iwen captured and brought in here all made to yield their quota of oil.
Sea-bathing love is entirely safe, and forly indulged in by the multitude of visitas each sawn. The shelving wach is ha sheltered that the child of wonder years may safely cuter the water. A beautiful crescent is Monterey bay, a rock hand shore, softened here and there into gentle Inachos. covered with pebbles and shells, and a grove of pines where roots are washed by the ocean waves.
PORTALA'S CHOIXS.
In the fall of 1769, Gasper de Portala, Governor of Lower ('alifornia, at the head of two priests aml sixty-three colliers, came overland from San Diego, and erected a cross wear the Bay of Monterey, although he failed to identify the place according to the map aml other decriptions furnished one hun- dred nud sixty-six years before by Viscainu Ax you pass over the little bridge on the road to Pacific Grove, you will see to the left a weather-beaten cross, which is supposed to be planted where the padres landed
This Christian incident has been exquisitely apostrophized in verse ley Bret Harte, as follows :-
Pious Portals, journeying hy land, Reared high a cross upon the heathen strand, Then far away
Dragged his alow caravan to Stonterey.
The mountains whispered to the valleys, "Good !" The sun, slow sinking in the western food. Baptized in blood The holy standard of the Brotherhood.
The timid fog crept in across the mea, Drew near, embraced it, and streamed far and free, Saying, "O. ye Gentiles and Heathen, this is truly He!"
All this the Heathen saw; and when once more The holy Fathers touched the lovely thore- Then covered o'er With sbells and gifts-the cross their witness bore.
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CUSTOM HOUSE. LIBRARY, AND NEWSPAPER.
According to Pioneer." the foundation, or rather the cen- tral portion of the ('u-tom House was laid when the flag of Old Spain waved over Upper California, and after lying for years in that state, the walls were raised under Mexican rule, and a tiled roof just over the central part. At the end were built two small towers, shingled over, though one of them was not completel until 1844-3. In the Mexican time the Cus- town House coubl boast a boat and crew; but now Uuch Sam is too poor to support one in the third harbor of California, though it is the only port where a verel can lay in safety during south-easters, between Sau Francisco and San Diego. In early days it used to support four Custom House officers, for Monterey was the port where the duties were paid by ves- slx trading with the Mexican department or territory of Upper California.
In the latter part of 1844 the Custom House, or central part of it, was turned into a ball-room by the officers of the U. S. frigate Surannak, then lying at anchor in the bay. The Surannak was commanded at that time by Capt. Armstrong -not a bad kind of a man, hut too fond of the cats, the crew thought; and they not only thought so, but felt thein occasion- ally when applied to their backs. The officers and citizens of Monterey had given balls or fandangoes to the officers of the frigate, and in return they gave one at the old Custom House before the frigato left. It was quite a grand affair, and lasted until sunrise. The frigate's band of musie was in attendance to play, and the crew were on shore all night, waiting to take the offcers on board. While the officers were dancing with the señoras and señoritas of Monterey, the crew, for waut of better amusement, dancedl with the grog bottles; and when it came time to take the officers ou board, all the crew were drunk. This, of course, was wrong and contrary to the discipline of the service. Perhaps the sailors thought that, as the officers were drinking wine as well as dancing inside, they might drink aguardiente outside; but as Capt. Armstrong did not view it in that light, he served out thirty dozen lashes to them with the cat-o'-niue-tails, to afford thein a little more light on the subject.
FIRST PUBLIC LIBRARY.
Thie Monterey Library Association was organized in 1849, and is believed to be the first public library established in California. The greater part of the books were purchased in New York, and consisted of American and Spanish works, and were much valued at that tique. Milton Little was president of this association in 1853.
Rev. S. H. Willey in his " Thirty Years in California," says: " Before I got to be too busy otherwise, I proposed the plan of a library to the people. They entered into it heartily, and
subscribed at once some fifteen hundred dollars, with which to buy books. I had a good supply of New York publishers' cat- alognes along with me, and so, with the assistance of others, 1 made out a very choice list of books. In due time they all came in good order, and so on the list of California public libraries, that in Monterey ranks as the one established first."
FIRST ALCALDE.
Immediately after Slont took possession of Mouterey, the people accepted the change with characteristic resignation, and Walter Colton was appointed the first Alealle under the new regime.
Colton, who had previously been chaplain of the frigate Congress, held the office of Alcalde for three years, during which time he figured prominently in the affairs of tho town, He wrote a work called " Three Years in California," which was iu the nature of a journal, and gave an excellent insight into the character of the people and of proceedings in those times.
FIRST NEWSPAPER IN CALIFORNIA.
In connection with Semple, a pioneer from Kentucky, Wal- ter Colton established the first newspaper ever published in California. It was called the Californian, and made its first appearance on Saturday, August 15, 1846. It was printed on paper originally intended for the manufacture of cigarettes, and was a little larger than a sheet of foolscap. The office was resurrected from the remains of a sinall concern formerly used for printing Roman Catholic tracts in Spanish. There being no W in the Spanish alphabet, they were compelled to use two V's (thus, VV) wherever a W occurred. The Californian, it is needless to say, was eagerly welcomed, and soon attained quite a circulation. It was finally merged in the Alto, California, when the latter paper was established at San Francisco.
Gen, Sherman says the press belonged to the United States, having been captured at the Custom House, and first used for printing official blanks. It was printed in Spanish and English.
COLTON HALL.
To Walter Colton belongs the honor of erecting the first building of importance in California. It was intended for a town hall and school-house. In this building the Convention met that formed the first Constitution for this State.
Monterey was there represented by H. W. Halleck, T. O. Larkin, C. T. Botts, P. Ord, and L. Dent. Although this Con- vention prepared a good Constitution, it effectually blighted tbe future of Monterey by passing a resolution to remove the capitol to San Jose, and as a consequence from 1849 to 1879, thirty long years, Monterey has merely existed.
00
...
RESIDENCE OF GEORGE W. HATCH, SALINAS CITY.
"CYPRESS COTTAGE' RES. OF J.B. SCOTT. SALINAS CITY, CAL,
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CHURCH OF SAN CARLOS, CARMEL, MONTERY CO. CAL.
SANTA RITA SCHOOL HOUSE, SANTA RITA, MONTEREY CO. CAL.
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GROWTH AND DECLINE OF MONTEREY CITY.
FIRST CALIFORNIA JURY
The first jury summoned in California was unpanel i by Colton, on September 4. 1516 It was composed of one-third Mexicans, Que-thirl Californians, an I the other third Amner- icans. This new system of trial proved eminently satisfactory. as it always must when properly administratul
FIRST BILLIARD-TAHLE
In the har-room of the obl and well-known Washington Hotel, surrounded by antiquated pictures and envelopel in the folds of an ancient cloth, stands the pioneer hilliard-tahle of the Goklen State. This table was maunfacturel in England in 1832, was sold to a scion of English aristocracy in 1833, and was finally purchased and sent to Monterey in the happy golden days of '49, and its alvent here was enthusiastically cele- brated, and everybody got hinppy on the festive occasion. The table cost originally about $3,000, and Lock wood ought to preserve it carefully. It is an excellent table.
THE FIRST PIANO.
Another sacred musical memeuto of the mystic and pros- perous days of long ago, is the piano which was purchased many years ago by the Inte popular and generous merchant, Don Jose Abrego. The pinno was manufactured in the sub- urbs of London in 1830, and was used, we believe, in the orchestra before the foot-lights of a popular London theatre, on several occasions, to assist in contributing to the enjoyment of many of the crowned heads of Europe. It was, some years subsequently, shipped to Monterey, and purchased by Don Jose Abrego at a big price, and it is still an excellent toned instrument, und a highly prized heirloom of the remaining members of the family.
MONTEREY BECOMES A CITY.
By an Act of the Legislature, passed April 30, 1851, the town was duly incorporated. Philip A. Roach, now of San Francisco, who was then Alcalle, was elected the first Mayor." His administration was unmarked by any events worthy of special mention. He was succeeded by Gilbert Murdock, of the firm of Curtis & Murdock, merchants, who was followed by W. H. MeDowell. Although McDowell was duly elected Mayor, he never served as such. The duties of the office were discharged by Charles Herron.
Monterey did not long remain a city, for by an Act approved May 11, 1853, her charter was amended and the control of municipal affairs vested in a board of three trustees.
In 1950 the town found lerelf ss nich in delig that it treatme neemary in order to meet her obligat use th well the greater portion of the Pueda grant Sul extravagante I might the trust intudier gate anlat the martin of the Legislature the charter was again amen Il in such a manner as to render their powers, either for goalor for and renalingly limitaal
During the legislative & in of 1900 70 an attemptat re in- corporation was male the till pavel the Avemldy, lust was defeated in the Senate Another attempt was then maite, but in same manner the lall again miscarriel A third effort to obtain the desired rault provel somewhat more successful In 1573 4 the " Act to Re-incorporate the City of Monterey" was carried through both house and reached the fluvestor, who. it is allegol, failed to return it within the specified time, and Monterey still remains under control of trust
CELEBRATED FORMER RESIDENTS
Monterey has lan honor- ed by the provence, at one time or another, from 1546 to 18.6, of many oflicen who have since distinguished themselves Halleck servial n terin of anty at the okf California capital; so also did Win T. Sherman, and Phil Kearney, who was killed at Chantilly, and General Riley. Colonel Burton, who married a señorita of San Diego, died since the war. his widow is still living at Jamal, in San Diego county, and her pretty daughter, Nellie, is the wife of Miguel Peinarno. who has cattle on a thousand hills Sully, wbo married the prettiest girl at Monterey in those days, Sonorita Manuela Jimeno, an alliance which inspired Bayard Taylor to write a very delightful poem, rose to the rank of Major-funeral in the Union army, and died a few years ago in Oregon Among others were General Reynolds, a ''autain nt Monterey, who died at Antietam; General Lyon, then a Captain, who was killed in Missouri ; General Magruder, then brevet Colonel; General Andrews, then a Lieutenant, who was on Cauby's staff at the taking of Mobile; General Stoneman, then Lieutenant, one of the most gallant of the Federal officers, now one of the Railroad Commissioners of California; General Slemniner, then n Lieutenant, hadly wounded at Stone river; General Mason, then a Lieutenant, now retiredl; General Heintzelman. then brevet Major, who commanded in Washington most of the time during the war; General Frank Patterson, then Lieutenant, who raised one of the first regiments in Philadelphia, and who afterwards committed suicide; General Armisteal, then brevet Major, who left Los Angeles with Albert Sydney Johnson, and was killed at the battle of Gettysburg; General E. O. C. Ord,
'10 1549 Phil'p Roach Was Alcalde, and brought around the Horn two frame houses, which mar now be seen at Monterey.
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A STROLL THROUGH MODERN MONTEREY.
then Captain; Lieutenant Murray; Major Ringgold, who died at San Francisco wine years ago. Then there was the never- to-be forgotten Lieutenant Derby, "John Phenix " , who was known as " Squibb" at Monterey, and Captain Kane, the " Squebal" of the "gang." and El Bingham, General Taylor's orderly, who, it will be remembered, was shot in a fracas on board a l'anama steamer.
VISIT TO MODERN MONTEREY
The second night I was in Monterey, its mellow-toned old! structures were transformed by moonlight-the most appro- priate time to visit old towns of ruins. Tiled roofs, decaying balconies, projecting and serrated caves, the warm-colored cop- ings of adobe walls that slint in the narrow streets, and all the quaint adjunets aml fixtures of the old Spanish architecture, glimmered like an intricate mesh of woven silver over the town. It was delightful to wander here on American soil where a hundred years ago the supercilious Dons of Spain lorded it at their own sweet will. And the hush and the sub- duedi light but served to intensify the feeling.
Walking down Alvarado street, lined with the mossed and ancient buildings of the Mexican Occupation, some tenanted now by bats and rats, and vocal with the moaning night wind, I came presently into a small, irregular area, formerly known as the Plaza of the Fountain. Here a stupid but practical pump dispenses its bounty to beast in a huge trough, But there is no convenience for inu. Nor seemed there need of any, with the pungent odor of aguardiente assailing your nos- trils from every low, brown entrance on the square.
But the old plaza was thoroughly Spanish. Dusky beanties stole along under the balconies and copings. Plaintive airs, trolled by soft voices, to an accompanying guitar, welled at intervals ont from the little col de sacs beyond the foot- bridge. Up shadowy by-ways children prattled in the musical accents of the Mexicano; and even in the busy thoroughfares English was a foreign tongue,
THE CATHOLIC CHURCH.
A visit to the Cathedral should not be omitted. The tourist passes on the way several old adobes, one of which, with its remnants of fancy stuccoing, its great rafters tethered to pro- jecting beams with thongs of rawhide-not a nail or spike about the whole structure-and its inassive flaring roof of varigated red tiles, will especially attract attention. The
approach to the church is curiously paved with the disjointed vertebræ of whales caught in the harbor. The facade is highly ornamented, after the old Spanish style, and its curious bell tower painted with warin buff is exceedingly picturesque seen from a little distance. The interior, though cold, rude and plain. is possessed of one considerable attraction -- a very old
picture, an importation, representing the Court of Heaven hanging just under the choir. The effvet seems somewhat marred by the attitude of the angelic herald resting upon the crown of two cherula But for their ecstatic expresion, one would think the hopeless innocents were being trampled back to the Stygian realins below. The faces are all exceedingly natural, characterized by truthfulness and individuality of expression, and wenr the holy cahn of exalted lives,
AN EVENING STROLL.
I climbed to the Presidio one evening at sunset. The view well repaid the trouble. My only companion was the solitary little six-pounder, pointing its puny muzzle over the bay in the grimmest mockery of defense. Defense ! Who would think of attacking the sleepy forgotten oll burgh at my feet ? There, at his post, stood the " outlook " for chance whales, on his wind- swept knoll, darkly shadowed against the thushed waters of the bay. To the right stretched the Santa Lucia range, waving with pines that lovkel, a league off, like palms. To the south- ward rose the olive-green domes of barer summits, their bases resting in the emeraldi plushi of a mat of pines and live-oak. Up the blue trough hollowing dimly away towards the Palo Escrito hills, towered the grand bulk of El Toro, closing in the lovely scene. Twenty miles over the golden blue of the bay the dim-penciled Santa Cruz mountains reared their wall of airy purple, while the sails of the nearer fishing-smacks burned like fire against them. Gradually the breezy waters subsided, and lay, a dimpled plain of liquid malachite, fringed with the booming surf. The brightest spot in the whole canvas of sky, wave and wold, was the bated sand dunes of a few days before. Nature leaves no waste places .- Elmo Wildwood.
CURIOSITIES OF THE TOWN.
Fred Somers says: "I could tell you of quaint and curious relics ; of romantically walled-in gardens, hard for a lover to climh, like those in Spain ; of sidewalks made of the vertebræ of whales, and the mammoth bones piled high in fantastic pyra- mids, and covered with flowers ; of the strange sights at the whaling station, but never of the sickening sinell; of China- town and its bales of dried fish, and the junks built hy the beathen themselves, and equipped with great bat-winged sails ; of the light-house at Pinos Point ; of the Methodist camp- meeting ground where the brethren annually shout; of Cypress Point, where the gnarled and knotted trunks and delirious looking branches actually reach for you, and tangle up your thoughts, and shake long disheveled locks of fog- soaked moss, and point at you reprovingly with their twisted and devilishly suggestive fingers, and stretch on high, with almost a human moan, their deformed and distressing arms; of the bathing beaches, and the dives from the end of the
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SUPERIORITY OF SCENERY AND CLIMATE
wharf down into the water fifty fect deep crisp as broken glass and ay cold as the glance of a mother-in-law . of the wonderful natural aquariums among the rocks, visital a! low tide, and fascinating enough to keep you chained to the place till the incoming waters cut off all chance of getting back to landl; of the natural caves and bridges, where the requiem of the ocean is played by the waves, and sung by mournful, high- ing, sepulchiral winds; of the trolling trije for barracouta on the bay, perch fishing in the surf, and snipe, quail, and squirrel slangliter ou the land ; of phunaged sea-bird-, and flashing dol- phins, and shelving beaches, and sand-banks you might mistake for snow. All this I might amplify, and assert, and athrin, and then you might come down here, getting ara-sick on the way; finding nothing to eat or drink ; no comfortable place to sleep, no one to black your boots; a shivering fog to greet yon in the early morning, amt an atmosphere of dreary dis- content."
BEAUTIFUL MONTEREY.
DY NAS, ANSIE Z. MERRITT.
Where the blue waves kiss the sand. As they leap a joyous band ; Where the mountains towering high, Seem to touch the azure sky ; Where the young vines meekly twine Round the tall, majestic pine ; Half inclosed in rocks of gray, Gently slumbers Monterey.
Beautiful as poet's dream, W'hou its bills with verdure teem : When the balmy air is filled With incense from Heaven distilled, And sweet nature secks repose Where the murinuring streamlet flows. Like some gem of brightest ray There enthroned is Monterey.
Flowers of the brightest hue, Laden with the morning dew ; Velvet grass and clinging vine, liroves of oak, and stately pine, Fleecy clouds that lightly rest On the evening's gentle broast, All these hold their quiet sway On the shores of Monterey.
But more beautiful st even In the mystic light of heaven, When the moon's pale, silvery sheen Lends its beauty to the scene, And a holy calm o'er all Settles lightly as a pall. And the night seems changed to day 'Neath the skies of Monterey.
Talk not of the storied Rhine, Nor Italia's sunny clime, Nor the Orient's so fair With its balmy perfumed air. Crowned with old historic lore, Well I love this rock-bound shore ; Tis to thee I sing my lay- Queen of Beanty, Monterey.
WHATHIER AT MONTEREY
The weather at Manteres is not a. warm, other in summer or winter as in other parts of Califorms further with but there is an even temperatura that can la famil nowhere else From January to December, year in and year out there is un summer nor winter weather. liblood, the weather at Monterey, from one year's end to another, partakes of that delightful interlude known in the East and Smith av Indian summer. Th same balmy zephyrs breathe a delicious atmos- phere all the year round and sunnun an l winter, w called, serendly face each other auf exchange condiments The west wind, moist with the spray of Pacific billowe, and la len with the suggestions of spice, in the far C'athay, comes in every evening with oz me and healing upon ity wings
Monterey has only one rival Honolulu in quability of temperature. It must be underst url, however, that there is a great deal of hut, disagreeable weather on the islands, and a multiplicity of drawbacks which Monterey does not process. There are seldom any high, cobl winds at and around Mout- erey, and never any hot ones. There is more or less foggy weather in the spring months, as there is all along the cost, and once in a while a foggy morning in summer. The latter, however, are really agreeable, as they infuse new life and fresh ness into tree and shrub and lower, and are not in the least detrimental in their influences upon human beings at that sen- son of the year. VIEJO.
TEMPERATURE OF SDISTEREY
The following table shows the temperature for 1877 -8-9:
Dec. 1877, 51°. . .. Jan. 1877, 49º .. . Feb. 1877. 500 1878, 55'. . 1878, 514. 1878, 530
1879, 51 = 1579,510. = 1879, 54º
Purity of atmosphere is the great desideratum of the seeker after health. During the warm season, or summer months. from May to October, the mercury seldom rises to 65', as the heat from the valley's and mountain sides is tempered by cool- ing winds from the ocean between meridian and sunset, and by breezes from the mountain gaps during the night. During what may be termed the winter months 30 will mark, on an average, the mean temperature, and water is never congealed The very fact that many persons wear overcoats at night and sleep in blankets the year round, and that all field work from January to December is performed by laborers in their shirt sleeves, presents a better and more unequivocal illustration of the equability of the weather, perhaps, than any other inci- dent that might be presented. The healthfulness of this sec- tion is simply unquestionable, and is second to none in the world. What is generally known as the rainy season conl- mences in November, and lasts three or four months.
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MONTEREY A HEALTH GIVING PLEASURE RESORT.
The Renaissance of Monterey.
BY MAJOR BEN C. TRUMAN
THE reader is invited to accompany the author to an Arcadian scene, where sea and sky and sunshine and sylvan surroundings innjestically meet, and where a rare equability of temperature and healthfulness of climate beckon alike the seeker after recreation and recuperation-I mean Monterrey- the queen of American watering-places.
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