USA > California > San Benito County > History of San Benito County, California : with illustrations descriptive of its scenery, farms, residences, public buildings, factories, hotels, business houses, schools, churches, and mines : with biographical sketches of prominent citizens > Part 7
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FIRST SAN JOAQUIN RANCH.
I have now been more than ten years in this country, and have traveled over all the inhabited and most of the nuinhab- ited parts of it. I have resided eight years where I now live, near the Bay of San Francisco, and at the point where the
"This interesting letter descriptivo of California did much to call public attention to this then unknown reglon. The letter was written from the Marsh grant, at the foot of Mount Diablo, In Contra Costa county,
36
IMPORTANT DESCRIPTION OF TILE COUNTRY.
rivers Sacramento and San Joaquin unite together to meet the tide-water of the bay, about forty miles from the ocean. I possess at this place a farm about ten miles by twelve in extent, one side of which borders on the river, which is navigable to this point for sea-going vessels. I have at last found the far West, and intend to end my ramblings here.
I perceive by the public papers that this region of country, including that immediately north of it, which until lately was the most completely a terra incognito of any portion of the globe, is at length attracting the attention of the United States and Europe. The world, at length, seems to have become awake to the natural advantages of California and Oregon, and it seems probable that at the same moment I am writing, their political destinies are about being settled, at least for a long time to come. I mention the two countries together because I conceive the future destiny of this whole region to be one and inseparable. The natural conformation of the country strongly indicates it and a sympathy and fellow feeling in the inhabitants is taking place, which must soon bring about the consummation. Cali- fornia, as well as Oregon, is rapidly peopling with emigrants from the United States. Even the inhabitants of Spanish ori- gin, tired of anarchy and misrule, would be glad to come under the American Government.
The Government of the United States, in encouraging and facilitating emigration to Oregon is, in fact, helping to people California. It is like the British Government sending settlers to Canada. The emigrants are well aware of the vast superi- ority of California, both in soil and climate, and I may add, facility of access. Every year shorter and better routes are being discovered, and this year the great desideratum of a good and practical road tor wheel carriages has been found. Fifty- three wagons, with that number of families, have arrived safely, and more than a month earlier than any previous company. The American Government encourages emigration to Oregon by giving gratuitously some five or six hundred acres of land to each family of actual settlers. California, too, gives lands, not by acres, but by leagues, and has some thousands of leagues more to give to anybody who will occupy them. Never in any instance has less than one league been given to any individual, and the wide world from which to select from all the unoccu- pied lands in the territory. While Col. Almonte, the Mexican Minister to Washington, is publishing his proclamations in the American newspapers forbidding people to emigrate to Cali- fornia, and telling them that no lands will be given them, the actual Government here is doing just the contrary. In fact they care about as much for the Government of Mexico as for that of Japan.
ESTIMATED POPULATION.
It has been usual to estimate the population of Uppor Cali- fornia at five thousand persons of Spanish descent, and twenty
thousand Indians. This estimate may have been near the truth twenty years ago. At present the population may be stated in round numbers at seven thousand Spaniards, ten thousand civilized, or rather domesticated Indians. To this may be added about seven hundred Americans, one hundred English, Irish and Scotch, and abont one hundred French, Germans and Italians.
Within the territorial limits of Upper California, taking the parallel of 42° for the northern, and the Colorado river for the south-eastern boundary, are an immense number of wild, naked, brute Indians. The number, of course, can only be con- jectnred. They probably exceed a million, and may perhaps amount to double that number.
MUNIFICENT BARONIES.
The far-famed missions of California no longer exist. They have nearly all been broken up, and the lands apportioned ont into farmis. They were certainly munificent ecclesiastical bar- onies, and although their existence was quite incompatible with the general prosperity of the country, it seems almost a pity to see their downfall. The immense piles of buildings and beau- tiful vineyards and orchards are all that remain, with the exception of two in the southern part of the territory, which still retain a small remnant of their former prosperity.
EARLY IMPRESSIONS OF CLIMATE.
The climate of California is remarkably different from that of the United States. The great distinguishing difference is its regularity and uniformity. From May to October the wind is invariably from the north-west, and during this time it never rains, and the sky is brilliantly clear and serene. The weather during this time is temperate, and rarely oppressively warm. The nights are always agreeably cool, and many of the inhab- itants sleep in the open air the whole year round. From October to May the south-east wind frequently blows, and is always accompanied by rain. Snow never falls excepting in the mountains. Frost is rare except in December or Jannary. A proof of the mildness of the winter this moment presents itself in the shape of a humming bird, which I just saw from the open window, and this is in latitude 38º on the first day of February. Wheat is sown from October until March, and inize from March outil July. As respects Innan health and comfort, the climate is incomparably better than that of any part of the United States. It is much the most healthy country I have ever seen or have any knowledge of. There is no dis- caso whatever that can be attributed to the influence of the climate.
ESTIMATES ON SIZE OF CALIFORNIA.
The face of the country differs as much from the United
RESIDENCE OF JOHN BREEN, SAN JUAN, SAN BENITO CO. CAL.
RESIDENCE OF PATRICK BREEN, SAN JUAN, SAN BENITO CO. CAL.
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REMARKABLE PREDICTIONS OF A PIONEER.
States as the climate. The whole territory is traversed by ranges of mountains, which run parallel to each other and to the coast. The highest points may be about six thousand feet above the sea, in most places much lower. and in many parts they dwindle to low hills. They are everywhere covered with grass and vegetation, and many of the valleys and northern decliv- ities abound with the finest timber trees. Between these ranges of mountains are level valleys, or rather plains, of every widthi, from five miles to fifty. The magnificent valley through which flow the rivers St. Joaquin and Sacramento is five hun- dred miles long, with an average width of forty or fifty. It is intersected laterally by many smaller rivers, abounding with salmon.
The only inhabitants of this valley, which is capable of supporting a nation, are about a hundred and fifty Ameri- cans and a few Indians. No published maps that I have seen give any correct idea of the country, excepting the outline of the coast.
SAN FRANCISCO BAY DESCRIBED.
The Bay of San Francisco is considered by nautical men as one of the finest harbors in the world. It consists of two principal arins, diverging from the entrance in nearly opposite directions, and each abont fifty miles long. with an average width of eight or ten. It is perfectly sheltered from every wind, has great depth of water, is easily accessible at all times, and space enough for half the ships in the world. The entrance is less than a mile wide, and could be easily fortified so as to make it entirely impregnable. The vicinity abounds in the finest timber for ship-building, and in fact everything necessary to make it a great naval aud commercial depot. If it were in the hands of a nation who knew how to make use of it, its influence wouldl soon be felt on all the western coast of America, and probably through the whole Pacific.
A CHANGE PREDICTED.
I think it cannot long remain in the hands of its present owners. If it does not come into possession of Americans, the English will have it. This port in their hands, what will Oregon be worth to the United States? They loudly threaten to get possession of Cuba as an offset against Texas. Will they not be quite as likely to obtain California, as an offset against Oregon? A British ship of war was here last summer, whose captain was a brother of Lord Aberdeen, and one of her lieu- tenants a son of Sir R. Peel. The gentlemen declared openly that this port would shortly belong to thewu. This I take to be only a slight ebullition of John Bullismo, but that they want this port, and will have it if possible, there can be no doubt, a consummation most earnestly and ardently to be deprecated by every American. I hope it may direct your views to take an interest in this matter.
ESTIMATE ON CAPABILITIES OF CALIFORNIA.
The agricultural capabilities of California are but very imperfectly developed. The whole of it is remarkably adapted to the culture of the vinc. Wine and brandy of excellent quality are made in considerable quantities. Olives, figs and alınonds grow well. Apples, pears and peaches are abundant, and in the southern part, oranges. Cotton is beginning to be cultivated, and succeeds well. It is the finest country for wheat I have ever seen. Fifty for one is an average crop, with very imperfect cultivation. One hundred fold is not uncommon, and even one hundred and fifty has been produced. Maize pro- duces tolerably well, but not equal to some parts of the United States. Hemp, flax and tobacco have been cultivated on a small scale, and succeed well. The raising of cattle is the prin- cipal pursuit of the inhabitants, and the most profitable.
The foreign commerce of Upper California employs from ten to fifteen sail of vessels, mostly large ships. Somewhat more than half of these are American, and belong exclusively to the port, of Boston. The others are English, French, Russian, Mexican, Peruvian and Hawaiian. The French from their islands in the Pacific, and the Russians from Kamtschatka, and their establishments on the north-west coast, resort here for provis- ions and live stock. The exports consist of hides and tallow, cows, lard, wheat, soap, timber and furs. There are slaughtered annually about one hundred thousand head of cattle, worth $800,000. The whole value of the exports annually amounts to about $1,000,000. The largest item of imports is American cotton goods. The duties on imports are enormously high, amounting on the most important articles to one hundred and fifty per cent on the original cost, and in many instances to four or five hundred. Thus, as in most Spanish countries, a high bounty is paid to encourage smuggling. Whale ships visit St. Francisco annually inconsiderable numbers for refresh- ments, and fail not to profit by the facilities for illicit commerce.
CALIFORNIA WILL BE A STATE.
California, although nominally belonging to Mexico, is about as independent of it as Texas, and must ere long share the same fute. Since my residence here, no less than four Mexican Gov- ernors have been driven from the country by force of arms. The last of these, Micheltorena, with about four hundred of his sol- diers and one hundred employés, were driven away about a year ago.
This occurred at the time that the rest of the nation was expel- ling his master, Santa Ana, although notbing of this was known here at the time. The new administration, therefore, with a good grace, highly approved of our couduct. In fact, the suc- cessive administrations in Mexico have always shown a dispo- sition to sanction and approve of whatever we may do here, from a conscious inability to retain even a nominal dominion over the country by any other means. Upper California has
38
HABITS AND LIFE OF THE ABORIGINES.
heen governed for the last year entirely by its own citizens. Lower California is in general an uninhabited and uninhab- itahle desert. The scanty population it contains lives near the extremity of the Cape, and has no connection and little inter- course with this part of the country.
GOLD MINES BEFORE SUTTER'S DISCOVERY.
Upper California has a productive gold mine, and silver ore has been found in many places. A mine of quicksilver has been very lately found in this vicinity, which promises to be very valuable.
INDIANS OF CALIFORNIA.
"I know not, since you have been so long engaged in more weighty concerns, if you take the same interest as formerly in Indian affairs, but since I have supposed your personal identity to remain, I shall venture a few remarks on the Aborigines of California. In stature the California Iudian rather exceeds the average of the tribes east of the mountains. He is heavier limbed and stouter built. They are a hairy race, and some of them have beards that would do honor to a Turk. The color similar to that of the Algonquin race, or perhaps rather lighter. The visage, short and broad, with wide mouth, thick lips, short, hroad nose, and extremely low forehead. In some individuals the hair grows quite down to the eyebrows, and they may he said to have no forehead at all. Some few have that peculiar conformation of the eye so remarkable in the Chinese and Tartar races, and entirely different from the com- mon American Indian or the Polynesian ; and with this unpromising set of features, some have an animated and agree- ahle expression of countenance. The general expression of the wild Indian has nothing of the proud and lofty bearing, or the haughtiness and forocity so often seen east of the mountains. It is more commonly indicative of timidity and stupidity.
" The men and children are absolutely and entirely naked, and the dress of the women is the least possible or conceivable remove from nudity. Their food varies with the season. In February and March they live on grass and herbage ; clover and wild pea-vine are among the best kinds of their pasturage. I have often seen hundreds of them grazing together in a meadow, like so many cattle. [Descendants of Nebuchaduez- zar .- ED.]
" They are very poor hunters of the larger animals, but very skillful in making and managing nets for fish and food. They also collect in their season great quantities of the seeds of various grasses, which aro particularly abundant. Acorns are another principal article of food, which are larger, more abundant, and of better quality than I have seon eleswhere. The Californian is not more different from the tribes enst of the mountains in his physical than in his moral and intellectual qualities. They are easily domesticatoil, not averse to labor,
have a natural aptitude to learn mechanical trades, and, I believe, universally a fondness for music, and a facility in acquiring it.
INDIANS OF THE MISSION.
" The Mission of St. Joseph, when in its prosperity, had one hundred plough-men, and I have seen them all at work in one field each with his plough. It had also fifty weavers, twenty tan- ners, thirty shoe-makers, forty masons, twenty carpenters, ten blacksmiths, and various other mechanics. They are not nearly so much addicted to intoxication as is common to other Indians. I was for some years of the opinion that they were of an entirely different race from those east of the mountains, and they certainly have hut little similarity. The only thing that caused me to think differently is that they have the same Moccasin game that is so common on the Mississippi, and what is inore remarkable, they accompany it hy singing precisely the same tune! The diversity of language among them is very great. It is seldom an Indian can understand another who lives fifty miles distant; within the limits of California are at least a hundred dialects, apparently entirely dissimilar. Few or no white persous have taken any pains to learn them, as there are individuals in all the tribes which have cominu- nication with the settlements who speak Spanish.
INDIANS EASILY DOMESTICATED.
The children, when caught young, are most easily domesti- eated, and manifest a great aptitude to learn whatever is taught them; when taken into Spanish families, and treated with kindness, in a few months they learn the language aud habits of their masters. When they come to maturity they show no disposition to return to the savage state. The mind of the wild Indian, of whatever age, appears to be a tabula rasa, on which no impressions, except those of mere animal nature, have been made, and ready to receive any impress whatever. I remember a remark of yours some years ago, that " Indians were only grown-up children." Here we have a real race of infants. In many reeent instances when a family of white people have taken a farm in the vicinity of an Indian village, in a short time they would have the whole trihe for willing serfs. They submit to tlagellation with more humility than the negroes. Nothing more is necessary for their complete subjugation but kindness in the beginning, and a little well- timed severity when manifestly deserved. It is commou for the white man to ask the lilian, when the latter has commit- ted any fault, how many lashes he thinks he deserves.
INDIAN SIMPLICITY.
" The Indian, with n simplicity and humility almost incon- ceivable, replies ten or twenty, according to his opinion of the magnitude of the offense. The white man then orders another
39
INCREASED IMMIGRATION TO CALIFORNIA.
Indian to inflict the punishinent, which is received without the least sign of resentment or discontent. This I have myself witnessed or I could hardly have believed it. Throughout all California the Indians are the principal lahorers; without them the business of the country could hardly be carried on.
" I fear the unexpected length of this desultory epistle will be tedious to you, hut I hope it will serve at least to diversify your correspondence. If I can afford yon any information, or be servicable to you in any way, I beg you to command me. Any communication to me can be sent through the American Minister at Mexico, or the Commanding Officer of the Squad- ron in the Pacific, directed to the care of T. O. Larkin, Esq., American Consul in Monterey. I am, sir, very respectfully,
" Your obedient servant,
" HON. LEWIS CASS.
JOHN MARSH."
Dr. Marsh was murdered on the 24th of September, 1856 It occasioned much excitement at the time, as the Doctor was one of the oldest residents of the State. The murderers were Mexicans, who followed him as he was on the road towards home from Pacheco. The discovery of the horse and huggy in Martinez at early daylight was the first knowledge of the affair. One of the murderers was arrested the next day. He was tried, but escaped from jail and eluded pursuit for ten years. He was again arrested with his accomplice, P. Moreno, who was sentenced to State prison for life, while the first was discharged,
INCREASED IMMIGRATION TO CALIFORNIA.
1840,-In the first five years of the decade commencing with 1840, there began to settle in the vast Californian valleys that intrepid hand of pioneers, who, having scaled the Sierra Nevadas with their wagons, trains, and cattle, began the civil- izing influences of progress on the Pacific coast. Many of them had left their homes in the Atlantic and Southern States, with the avowed intention of proceeding direct to Oregon. On arrival at Fort Hall, however, they heard glowing accounts of the saluhrity of the Californian climate and the fertility of its soil; they therefore turned their heads southward and steered for the wished-for haven. At length, after weary days of toil and anxiety, fatigued and foot-sore, the promised land was gained. And what was it like ?
CALIFORNIA IN A STATE OF NATURE.
The valleys were an interminable grain field; mile upon mile, and acre after acre, wild oats grew in marvellous profu- sion, in many places to a prodigious height-one glorious green of wild waving corn-high overhead of the wayfarer on foot, and shoulder-high with the equestrian; wild flowers of every pris- matic shade charmned the eye, while they vied with each other in the gorgeousness of their colors, and hlended into dazzling splendor.
One breath of wind and the wide emerald expanse rippled itself into space, while with the heavier breeze caine a swell whose rolling waves heat against the mountain sides, and, being hurled back, were lost in the far-away horizon; shallow pursued shadow in a long, merry chase.
The air was filled with the hum of bees, the chirrup of birds, and an overpowering fragrance from various plants. The hill- sides, overrun as they were with a dense mass of tangled jungle, were hard to penetrate, while in some portions the deep dark gloom of the forest trees lent relief to the eye. The almost boundless range was intersected throughout with diver- gent trails, wherehy the traveler moved from point to point, progress being, as it were, in darkness on account of the height of the oats on either side, and rendered dangerous in the valleys hy the bands of untamed cattle, sprung from the stock introduced hy the missions and early Spanish settlers. These
GEN, JOHN A, SUTTER.
found food and shelter on the plains during the uight; at dawn they repaired to the higher grounds to chew the cud and bask in the sunshine.
THE HARDY PIONEERS,
What a life was that of the early pioneer, and how much of life was often crowded into a year, or, sometimes, even into a day of their existence! Now, that the roads are all made, and the dim trail has been supplanted by well-beaten and much-traveled highways, how complacently we talk and write and read of their deeds and exploits. The writer of fifty years hence will he the man who will have the license to color up the heroic deeds of valor, and set forth in fitting words a proper tribute to the valor and prowess of the generation that is just now passing from our midst. We of to-day cannot, dare not, say it as it should be, for there are living witnesses who would say it was too highly colored-too romantic, too fanciful,
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ARRIVAL OF CAPTAIN SUTTER AND OTHERS.
TOIL AND PRIVATIONS OF PIONEERS ..
It has been theirs to subdue the wilderness and change it into smiling fields of bright growing grain. Toil and priva- tions, such as we can little appreciate now, was their lot for years. Poor houses, and even no houses at all, but a simple tent or even an Indian wickeup sheltered them from the rigors of the storm and the inclemency of the weather. The wild beasts of the woods were their night visitors, prowling about and making night hidcous with their unearthly noises, and working the nerves of women, and often, perhaps of men, up to a tension that precluded the possibility of sleep aud rest. Neighbors lived many miles away, and visits were rare and highly appreciated.
LAW AND ORDER PREVAIL.
Law and order prevailed almost exclusively, and locks and bars to doors were then unknown, and the only thing to fear in human shape were the petty depredations by Indians. For food they had the fruit of the chase, which afforded them ample meat, but bread was sometimes a rarity, and appreciated when had as only those things are which tend most to our com- fort, and which we are able to enjoy the least amount of. But they were happy iu that life of freedom from the environments of society and social usage. They breathed the pure, fresh air, untainted by any odor of civilization; they ate the first fruits of the virgin soil, and grew strong and free on its strength and freedom.
ARRIVAL OF CAPTAIN SUTTER.
The southern portion of California was essentially Spanish and Mexican in its population, while the northern part was left to the occupation of foreigners. The Sacramento valley was comparatively unnoticed until after the settlement of Captain John A. Sutter at New Helvetia, but following that event, it became the theater for grand operations and achievements. Sutter's Fort was the neuclens about which congregated nearly all of the carly emigrants, and the annexation of California is largely due to the influence of that gentleman aud those associated with him. Ever hospitable and generous, he was a friend to whom the carly settlers and explorers repaired for advice and sustenance.
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1839 .- Captain John Angustus Sutter was born in Baden, Germany, at midnight, February 28, 1803, of Swiss parents. After the completion of his education he became a captain in the French army, but becoming tired of the superficial nature of Freuch society and customs, he set out for America, to find some sechided spot where he might surround himself with & home and associations more in consonance with his ideas and tastes. New York was reached iu July, 1834, and from there, after a sojourn of only one month, the Captain went to the far-
famed " West." From here he journeyed to New Mexico and having heard of the marvelous beauty and fertility of Califor- nia, he joined a party of trappers, expecting soon to reach his destination. But the journey ended at Fort Vancouver, and Captain Sutter's only way to reach California was to go to the Sandwich Islands and from there to take a sailing ship to Mon- * terey. After waiting a long time in Honolulu he took passage in a ship bound for Sitka. By singular good luck the vessel was driven iuto San Francisco bay, July 2, 1839.
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