The history of Polk County, Iowa : containing a history of the county, its cities, towns, &c., biographical sketches of its citizens, war record of its volunteers in the late rebellion, general and local statistics, portraits of early settlers and prominent men, Part 33

Author: Union Historical Company, Des Moines, pub
Publication date: 1880
Publisher: Des Moines, Iowa : Union Historical Co.
Number of Pages: 1074

USA > Iowa > Polk County > The history of Polk County, Iowa : containing a history of the county, its cities, towns, &c., biographical sketches of its citizens, war record of its volunteers in the late rebellion, general and local statistics, portraits of early settlers and prominent men > Part 33

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Mr. Negus says further, that he has understood that mounds abound along the whole valley of the Des Moines, but that he has been unable to gain any authentic information with regard to any except those specified. Had he taken the necessary steps to find out he would have ascertained the fact that within the bounds of Polk county there were originally numer- ous vestiges of this prehistoric race, and that especially in the county north of Polk there were quite a number.

A remarkable chain of bluffs or hills, called Mineral Ridge, extends the entire width of the north side of Boone county. The surveyors declared that the ridge contained deposits of iron, from the fact that their compass needles were deflected when running lines in that locality. This is the reason why the elevations were called Mineral Ridge.

An old record says that:

" Opposite to Honey creek, in section 18, township 84, range 26, is a row of ancient mounds, nine in number, the largest one being in the center and over fifteen feet high."

There is a township in that county which is called Pilot Mound, which takes its name from an elevation just across the Des Moines river, and the early settlers were so impressed by the peculiar appearance of the mound that they held it in great veneration.

An old record says that a great battle was once fought by the Indians near Pilot Mound, one of the elevations of Mineral Ridge, on the east side of the river in Boone county. Keokuk commanded the Sacs and Foxes, and Little Crow commanded the Sioux. This battle must have been fought some time prior to the Black Hawk War. The bones of the slain were frequently plowed up by the early settlers in the vicinity of Pilot Mound, and a number of skeletons have been exhumed from the top of the mound. Keokuk is said to have been victorious. Several hundred war- riors were engaged on either side.

The fact is still further confirmed by investigations, at an early day, by Col. L. W. Babbitt, now of Council Bluffs.

The first white man who resided in the present limits of Boone county was Col. L. W. Babbitt. He had been for a number of years commanding a detachment of United States Dragoons, and while serving in that capacity had frequently crossed the country. During these excursions from Fort Des Moines to the vicinity of Fort Dodge, he was struck by the beautiful scenery and natural resources of the country lying along the Des Moines river. He had also noted what he regarded as a particularly favored point, just above the present site of Moingona, formerly familiarly known as Noah's Bottom, but more recently called Rose's Bottom. At this place he had discovered the remains of a former village. The character of these remnants of human habitation convinced him that the people who had previously dwelt there were not representatives of the Sioux, Pottawatta- mies, Sac and Fox Indians, nor yet of any tribe or tribes of savages known to the civilized world. The dwellings were of a more permanent charac-

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HISTORY OF POLK COUNTY.

ter, and the tools used in their erection were evidently of a better quality and a more approved character than the Indians referred to had been known to possess. There were also found the remains of cooking utensils, which the savages were not accustomed to use, and other unmistakable evi- dences of a prehistoric civilization.

It was probably in part due to desire to investigate these remains of the former village, and partly due to the fact that the surroundings were of such a nature as to make this location a desirable winter quarters, that Col. Babbitt, on retiring from the United States service, determined to locate at this point. He arrived there in the autumn of 1843, and erected tem- porary quarters in which he and his attendants could comfortably pass the winter. Provisions were readily procured at points further down the river, and by reason of his familiarity with the country, he had a comparatively easy and convenient communication with the white people who had located in the older settled country to the south and east. Then, too, the country for miles in every direction being entirely new, and many parts of it scarcely if ever before having echoed to the sound of that great instrument of civ- ilization, the rifle, game of all kinds was abundant, of the best quality, and easily obtained. Fish were easily caught in great numbers, and the choicest of fur-bearing animals were numerous. Added to this the further fact that the Colonel had for many years spent his time on the frontier, and by reason of many a solitary march and lonely camp in the solitudes of the wilderness, had accustomed himself to being shut off from the conve- niences and luxuries of civilized society, he doubtless found his temporary home in Noah's Bottom a very pleasant and enjoyable one. In regard to the remains of the former habitations, already referred to, Col. Babbitt, on careful examination and mature deliberation, came to the conclusion that they had constituted the dwellings of a band of half breeds, who were known to have dwelt along the shores of the upper Des Moines in very early days. These half breeds were a cross between the French and Sioux, and by reason of their relationship with the Sioux were allowed to remain in that region long before it would have been safe for any white people to dwell there. These people, half French and half Indian, were frequently referred to in the Indian traditions; at one time they were quite numerous along the upper Des Moines, and it was probably they who gave the name to the river. Authority has already been cited for the statement that the words Des Moines is a corruption of the French phase Rivere des Moines, meaning "river of the mounds."

From what is known of these Indian half breeds it is certain that they had nothing to do with the mound building, no matter what may have been their connection with the village whose remains were noticed and studied by Col. Babbitt.

A former publication says that "fifteen mounds, the work of a prehis- toric race, dotted the surface of the original site of Fort Des Moines. One of these ancient relics stood where Moore's Opera House now stands, on the summit of which was erected the old residence of W. W. Moore. Another one stood on the site of the court-house, and others were scattered about in different localities. They are supposed to be the places where the dead of antiquity were buried, as bones have frequently been exhumed from them. The curious reader in search of more minute particulars, is referred to a very interesting treatise on the Prehistoric Races, written by J. W. Foster."

Thomas Mitchell

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HISTORY OF POLK COUNTY.

In the concluding paragraph of the article entitled, "The River of the Mounds," Mr. Negus draws the following conclusions:

"From the fact that there were a great many mounds in the valley of the river Des Moines and above the lower rapids of the Mississippi, it is reasonable to suppose that the Indian name of Moingona was abandoned and that this river was designated by the French as the river Des Moines, which means the river of the mounds."

It will be remembered that a large part of the country through which the Des Moines river flows was a part of the Louisiana purchase and as such belonged to the French prior to April 30th, 1803. The locality at- tracted the attention of the French and Spanish traders at a very early day and was probably visited by them long prior to its settlement by the Eng- lish.

The full, accurate and concise history of the Des Moines river navigation has never been written and probably never can be. The writer who would undertake the task would, in the very beginning, be met by that problem of the Des Moines river navigation improvement, which seems to have thoroughly bewildered every one who ever attempted to write on the sub- ject. If there is any one living who fully understands just what the im- provement company was, what it did and the compensation received and the benefits accruing to the State, he has never spoken, or having spoken, his words have not been preserved and transmitted. Certain it is that neither the National Congress nor State Legislature understood the problem. Without the aid of locks or dams, however, boats came up the river as far as Des Moines as early as 1843, and continued to make occasional trips till 1858. It is said one boat went up as far as Fort Dodge. This matter will be treated elsewhere.

Raccoon River-Next to the Des Moines the Raccoon, or what is more familiarly known as the 'Coon river, figures most extensively in the history of Polk county. Raccoon Fork is a name which early became famous in the General Assembly of the State and also in the National Senate and House of Representatives. When the grant of lands, consisting of every alternate section within five miles on either side of the Des Moines river was made, the question was raised whether the grant extended to the source of the river, or simply to the Raccoon Fork. This question came up in subse- quent years frequently, both in the National Congress and the federal courts ; by reason of this dispute and the fact that the government buildings were located at this point, the Raccoon river early became famous in Iowa his -- tory.

This river doubtless derives its name from the fact that formerly so many of these animals were found along its borders. Like the names of many other rivers, such as Beaver, Skunk, etc., it should never have been trans- lated from the original Indian term meaning the same thing. The length of the main body of this stream from the forks in Dallas county to where it empties into the Des Moines, is about twenty-two miles. The main stream, as well as its forks, supplies a large section of country with water and mill privileges, as well as an abundance of timber for fuel and build- ing purposes. During low water, the average width and depth are not very great; but during the rainy season, it often swells to an immense size in order to carry off the drainage from a large scope of country lying north- west, through which it and its branches extend. This immense flood of

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HISTORY OF POLK COUNTY.

drainage, flowing in so suddenly, frequently causes it to overflow its banks and flood the bottom lands along it to a great width. Its banks are of al- luvial deposit, and its bottom lands, sometimes extending on either side to a considerable distance, are either covered with a heavy growth of timber, or afford the most productive grazing and farming lands.

The channel for the most part flows over a pebbly, sandy bed, rendering it fordable in many places. Its fall is not so great and its current not so rapid as that of its confluents, and especially the South fork. The average slope of the stream from the forks to its mouth is two feet and eleven inches per mile. This river, if we consider the North fork as a continua- tion of the main stream, is of almost as much importance as the upper Des Moines. It has its source away to the north above Storm Lake in Buena Vista county, its head waters extending almost as far north as the Des Moines. Its general course is in a southeasterly direction, and for many miles, until it reaches Sac county, flows through the level open prairie, where it becomes gradually skirted more and more with a belt of timber and bluff lands until it reaches the northwest corner of Dallas county and runs diagonally through the entire extent of that county and passing out at the southeast corner, turns northward and empties into the Des Moines at a distance of about twelve miles northeast from the point where it enters the county. Directly on the point of land extending down into the fork of the Des Moines and Raccoon rivers the town of Fort Des Moines was originally located, and that portion of the city which was included in the original town plat is still called 'Coon Point. Des Moines city draws its supply of water from this river and it might properly be termed the Cro- ton of Iowa; for what the Croton river is to the Empire city that the Raccoon river is to the capital of Iowa.

Skunk River-The next river in size and importance in the county is the Skunk. The name comes from the Indian word Checauqua, which means Skunk, and it was an exhibition of very bad taste on the part of the early settlers in translating it. This detestable custom of dropping the pleasant sounding Indian name and the substitution of one which is un- pleasant to the ear and repulsive to the eye, may possibly be regarded as an evidence of the etymalogical researches of the pioneers, and as such is creditable to them, but it is more creditable to their industry than to their good taste. There is nothing romantic nor poetical about the name Skunk, but those who think lightly of the river on that account, should remember that the garden city of the west derives its origin from no better source. Chicago and Chicaqua are slightly different pronounciations of an Indian word that means the same thing. Skunk river proper is formed by the junction of two streams called respectively North and South Skunk, the point of confluence being in the southeastern part of Keokuk county about four miles from the county line. After leaving Keokuk county it flows through the southwest corner of Washington, thence through Henry and forming the boundary line between Des Moines and Lee, empties into the Mississippi some twenty miles above the mouth of the Des Moines. The stream which passes through Polk county is the main, or South Fork and rises in Hamilton county. That portion of the stream which lies within Polk county is some fifteen miles in length and flows in a southeastern direction. The bed of the stream is sandy and some rock is found therein. The current in the main is very sluggish, though in some places the fall is sufficient to afford good water power. The slope of that part of the

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HISTORY OF POLK COUNTY.

channel which lies in Polk county averages between three and four feet per mile. At some points the land slopes gradually away from the stream, thus permitting large portions of the bottom lands to be overflowed during the rainy season, and making travel across the country difficult or impossi- ble where there are no good roads and bridges. At other places there are rocky bluffs which preclude the possibility of an overflow at any season of the year. The stream has an abundance of good timber along its banks and contiguous thereto. It is properly noted for the abundance of fish which it contains, though since the building of numerons dams further down the fish are not so numerous nor of such good quality as formerly. One peculiarity of this stream, or rather the country bordering upon it, is that there appears to be no uniformity in the geological formations: in cer- tain localities there is an abundance of good building stone, and other localities are characterized by a total absence of stone. Its bed lies partly in the coal region and partly without the coal-field. There are many pecu- liarities in regard to the formation through which the stream flows that geologists have not yet been able to explain. The tributaries of Skunk river in Polk county are mainly from the west and flow in a northeastern direction. The three principal ones are as follows: White Oak Creek, Swan Creek and Byers' Creek. These small streams receive their names from certain physical features of the country or from certain early settlers who located at an early day in the timber which borders upon them. Swan Creek, about six miles from its mouth flows through a small lagoon or lake which upon the county maps is designated as Swan Lake. Beside those mentioned there are several small creeks flowing into the Skunk from the west and a few from the east.

Four Mile Creek .- The stream next in size and probably second only to the Des Moines in importance is Four Mile Creek. It received its name from the fact that the point where the road leading east from Des Moines crosses the stream is about four miles from the capital city. Fort Des Moines having been established at an early day, sometime before the sur- rounding country was open for settlement, became a place of great note in the western country before there were any permanent claims taken. When at length the country was thrown open to settlers many groves and streams lying on the road from Fort Des Moines east had already been named, and these names were subsequently adopted by the permanent settlers. Dra- goons, government officers and traders who were in the habit of passing over the road before referred to soon learned that when they arrived at the crossing of this stream they were four miles from the fort, and hence, by common consent, the creek was named Four Mile. The first bridge erected in the county was across this stream. The dragoons and others quartered at the fort experienced great difficulty at certain seasons of the year in crossing the stream, hence a permit was issued to Peter Newcomer to locate in that locality on condition he would erect a bridge across the stream; this he did at a very early day and afterward took a claim some two and a half miles south where he still resides. The bridge in question was erected very near the place where the Rock Island railroad now crosses Four Mile.

Four Mile Creek enters the county near the middle of the north boun- dary and runs a little east of south nearly the entire length of the county, emptying into the Des Moines about three miles from the south boundary. It flows through the most beautiful and productive portion of the county, and affords an abundance of living water the year round. The stream also

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HISTORY OF POLK COUNTY.

furnishes good water power during a portion of the year, and as early as 1850 there were at least two mills located on its banks. It has four or five small tributaries from the east, the largest of which is East Four Mile which empties into the main stream directly east of Des Moines. The bed of this stream has a higher elevation than any other in the county.

Big Creek .- This stream enters the county near its northwest corner, and about two and a half miles from the Dallas county line. It flows in a southeastern direction and empties into the Des Moines about ten miles from the north boundary of the county. It has small belts of timber lining its banks at certain points along its upper course and some five miles above its mouth enters the large belt of Des Moines river timber, and having once lost itself there returns no more into the open prairie. The points of timber extending out from the valley of this stream were favorite locations for the first settlers, one of these early settlements having finally grown up into the town of Polk City. One of the early settlers of the county, Groseclose by name, settled in a point of timber near this stream. We shall have more to say of this gentleman at another place; it may be remarked at this place, however, that the celebrated grist mill, bearing this gentleman's name, was not located near his claim on Big Creek, but about two or three miles further west on the Des Moines. There were mills on Big Creek at an early day.

Beaver Creek .- This stream was known in early times by the name of Amaqua Creek, the word Amaqua in the Indian dialect meaning beaver. It rises in the north part of Boone county. It flows in a southeastern direc- tion along the water-shed about midway between the Raccoon and Des Moines rivers. At places it makes an abrupt turn toward the former, and turning again abruptly flows directly toward the latter, and after pursuing its vascillating course for some forty or fifty miles, as if unable to determine to which river it will contribute its volume of water, makes a graceful curve to the east and empties into the Des Moines about five miles north- west of Des Moines city. Along the banks of this creek are detached bodies of timber, until within five miles of its mouth, where it loses itself in the wide belt of timber which originally extended some two or three miles on each side of the stream. It has one tributary of some importance from the west called Little Beaver. Beaver Creek, like all the other creeks and rivers of Polk county, had its mills in early days.

Walnut Creek .- This rises in Dallas county, entering Polk from the west about eight miles from the south boundary. Like all the other streams of the county its course is in a southeastern direction; it empties into the Raccoon some five miles from the mouth of the latter stream. A narrow belt of timber originally lined its banks all along its course in Polk county. Much of this timber has been cut off and the soil which nurtured it is now turned by the plowshare of the thrifty husbandman. From the north flows the principal tributary of Walnut Creek; it is called Little Walnut. Old records speak of saw mills located on Walnut creek, and we should not be surprised if some of the old furniture which is retained in many families, where this book will be read, was made of the black walnut trees which once grew in luxuriance along the banks of this stream and was sawed at a mill erected adjacent.

Camp Creek .- This stream rises in the east part of the county, northeast of Des Moines, in the vicinity of Mitchellville. It flows southeast, and leaves the county before its waters mingle with those of the Des Moines. It

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HISTORY OF POLK COUNTY.

was near the headwaters of this stream that Thomas Mitchell located at a very early day, and Mitchell's tavern, where the weary and hungry traveler could get a square meal for two bits, drew its supply of water from the fountain head of this famous stream, One of the early settlers of Wash- ington county, after having driven his ox team from the then far off civili- zation of the East, arrived near the close of day on the bank of a beautiful little stream some twenty miles south of Iowa City; he encamped for the night, and next morning upon making an examination of the country con- cluded to make that his permanent home. He afterward named the stream Camp Creek, in remembrance of the fact that he had encamped near it during the first night of his residence in the country. We suppose some similar circumstance gave rise to the name of the Polk county stream which we have just described.

Mud Creek-The stream which bears this suggestive and euphonious name rises northeast of Des Moines, and, flowing parallel with Camp Creek, empties into the Des Moines river near the southeast corner of the county. East of Four Mile, and about midway between the latter stream and Mud Creek, is Spring Creek. That part of the county east of Four Mile, for some six or eight miles northeast of the Des Moines river, was originally covered with a luxuriant growth of forest trees; through this almost unbroken wilderness the first pioneers found the creeks already enumerated flowing in their primeval solitude, and they were doubtless re- minded of the days of their youth, when in the forests of Indiana and Kentucky they had beheld a similar sight.

Indian Creek-There are few States in the Union, and few counties in any State, which cannot boast of an Indian Creek. Iowa has several, and Polk county has its representative. This stream flows across the north- eastern corner of the county, and completes the list of noble streams flow- ing in a like direction, as if for a like purpose-that of watering and re- freshing and beautifying the country, and making it one of the most favored and goodly regions which the sun shines upon. Many years, and possibly ages ago, they digged their winding channels and nurtured a growth of forest trees from which the pioneer might construct his rude cabin. After years and years of waiting, the white man came and found the country ready for his abode. It should be the abode of happiness and contentment, but we fear that too often from the valleys and the hills go up murmurings and complainings instead of what would be more appro- priate-the voice of unceasing gratitude and praise.

TIMBER.

The circumstance which more than any other favored the early and rapid settlement of Polk county was the abundance of timber. The presence of timber aided materially in bringing about an early settlement, and it aided in two ways: first, the county had to depend on emigration from the older settled States of the East for its population, and especially Ohio and Indi- ana. These States originally were almost entirely covered with dense for- ests, and farms were made by clearing off certain portions of the timber. Almost every farm there, after it became thoroughly improved, still re- tained a certain tract of timber commonly known as "the woods." The woods is generally regarded as the most important part of the farm, and the average farmer regarded it as indispensable; when he emigrated West

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the great objection to the Iowa country was the scarcity of timber, and he did not suppose that it would be possible to open up a farm on the bleak prairie. To live in a region devoid of the familiar sight of timber seemed unendurable, and the average Ohio and Indiana emigrant could not endure the idea of founding a home far away from the familiar sight of forest trees. Then again, the idea entertained by the early emigrants to Iowa that timber was a necessity, was not simply theoretical and ethical. The early settler had to have a house to live in, fuel for cooking and heating purposes, and fences to enclose his claim. At that time there were no rail- roads whereby lumber could be transported from the pineries; no coal mines had yet been opened, and few, if any, had been discovered. Timber was an absolute necessity, without which personal existence as well as ma- terial improvement was an impossibility. No wonder that a gentleman from the East, who in early times came to the prairie region of Iowa on a prospecting tour with a view of permanent location, returned home in dis- gust and embodied his views of the country in the following rhyme:

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The history of Polk County, Iowa : containing a history of the county, its cities, towns, &c., biographical sketches of its citizens, war record of its volunteers in the late rebellion, general and local statistics, portraits of early settlers and prominent men, Part 33

Author: Union Historical Company, Des Moines, pub Publication date: 1880 Publisher: Des Moines, Iowa : Union Historical Co. Number of Pages: 1074

Author: Union Historical Company, Des Moines, pub
Publication date: 1880
Publisher: Des Moines, Iowa : Union Historical Co.
Number of Pages: 1074