USA > Iowa > Polk County > The history of Polk County, Iowa : containing a history of the county, its cities, towns, &c., biographical sketches of its citizens, war record of its volunteers in the late rebellion, general and local statistics, portraits of early settlers and prominent men > Part 39
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ball upon one cheek and also one upon the thigh. She was out two days and one night in March, with nothing on but the clothes she wore about the house and a single crust of bread to eat, and with a child two months' old in her arms. She knew nothing of the fate of her husband until she got here, nor he of her.
But the Indian was destined to create no further disturbances upon the soil which the white man had marked for his own. In accordance with the stipulations of sacred treaties and likewise agreeably to the demands of the times, the allotted time had now come for the red man to move westward again on his roving mission and add one more proof that his race is.fast passing away, and must eventually disappear before the restless march of the Anglo-Saxon race, as did the traditionary Mound Builders give place to the predatory red man of later times.
And did the dust Of these fair solitudes once stir with life And burn with passion? Let the mighty mounds That overlook the rivers, or that rise In the dim forests crowded with old oaks Answer: A race that has long passed away Built them. The red man came- The roaming hunter tribes, warlike and fierce- And the Mound Builders vanished from the earth. The solitude of centuries untold
Has settled where they dwelt. The prairie wolf Howls in their meadows and his fresh dug den Yawns by my path. The gopher mines the ground Where stood their swarming cities. All is gone- All! save the piles of earth that hold their bones The platforms where they worshiped unknown gods.
Thus as those traditionary Mound Builders were forced to give way to the plundering red men of later times, so must he give place to his pale- faced successor, and his night of ignorance and superstition in which he so delights to revel, must give place to the approaching light of intelligence and civilization as truly as the darkest shades of midnight are dispelled by the approaching light of day. When the last barrier of restraint was thus removed, the tide of emigration, so long held in check, began to come in at a rapid rate over these prairies, and thus has it continued to roll, wave after wave, until it has reached the western shore, carrying with it the en- ergy and talents and enterprise of nations; and washing to the surface the gold from the mountains and valleys of the Pacific Slope, it has enveloped our land in the mighty main of enterprise and civilization.
CHAPTER IV. EARLY SETTLEMENTS.
Importance of First Beginnings-Character of First Settlers-Fort Des Moines-Captain Allen-The Dragoons-Indian Traders-Government Attaches-Thrift the Tailor-Peter Newcomer-Thomas Mitchell-John Saylor-John Dennison Parmelee-Benjamin Bry- ant-Settlements at Fort Des Moines, South Des Moines, North Des Moines, Big Creek, Four Mile, Camp Creek, Skunk River, Indian Creek, Beaver Creek, Walnut Creek-Gen- eral Summary.
EVERY nation does not possess an authentic account of its origin, neither do all communities have the correct data whereby it is possible to accurately
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predicate the condition of their first beginnings. Nevertheless, to be in- tensely interested in such things is characteristic of the race, and it is par- ticularly the province of the historian to deal with first causes. Should these facts, as is often the case, be lost in the mythical tradition of the past, the chronicler invades the realm of the ideal, and compels his imagination to paint the missing picture. The patriotic Roman ' was not content till he had found the "First Settlers," and then he was satisfied, although they were found in the very undesirable company of a she bear, and located on a drift, which the receding waters of the Tiber had permitted them to pre- empt.
One of the advantages pertaining to a residence in a new country, and one seldom appreciated is the fact that we can go back to the first begin- nings. We are thus enabled, not only to trace results to their causes, but also to grasp the facts which have contributed to form and mould these causes. We observe that a State or county has attained a certain position, and we at once try to trace out the reasons for this position in its early set- tlement and surroundings, in the class of men by whom it was peopled, and in the many chances and changes which have wrought out results in all the recorded deeds of mankind. In the history of Polk county, we may trace its early settlers to their homes in the Eastern States and in the coun- tries of the Old World. We may follow the course of the hardy woodman of the "Buckeye " or the "Hoosier " State on his way west to "grow up with the country," trusting only to his strong arm and his willing heart to work out his ambition of a home for himself and wife, and a competence for his children. Yet again. we may see the path worn by the Missourian in his new experience in a land which to him was a land of progress, far in advance of that southern soil upon which he had made his temporary home, in his effort to adapt himself to new conditions. We may see here the growth which came with knowledge, and the progress which grew upon him with progress around him, and how his better side developed. The pride of Kentucky blood, or the vain glorying of the F. F. V.'s, was here seen in an early day only to be modified in its advent from the crucible of democracy when servitude was eliminated from the solution. Yet others have been animated with the impulse to " move on," after mak- ing themselves a part of the communi ", and have sought the newer parts of the extreme West, where civilization had not penetrated, or returned to their native soil. We shall find much of that distinctive New England char- acter which has contributed so many men and women to other portions of our State and the West; also we shall find many an industrious native of Germany or the British Isles, and a few of the industrious and economical French-all of whom have contributed to modify types of men already ex- isting here.
Those who have noted the career of the decendants of those brave, strong men, in subduing the wilds and overcoming the obstacles, and withstanding the hardships of this country in early times, can but admit that they are worthy sons of illustrious sires.
With confidence that general results will prove that there is much of good in everything, and that a justice almost poetic has been meted out to the faults and follies, the integrity and virtue of the early settlers of the county, we may now enter upon an account of them.
The Indian title to the lands now included in the bounds of Polk county
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expired at midnight of October 11th, 1845. Mr. H. B. Turrill, in his brief work entitled " Historical Reminescences of Des Moines," says:
"This period was impatiently awaited by those who were already here, for after that time each one was at liberty to make a claim of three hun- dred and twenty acres, which could be held until the government brought the lands into market, and then purchased under such regulations as are now (1857) in force. Long before the expiration of the Indian title, the settlers around the Fort had made arrangements with each other, and the most valuable tracts were already considered claims. Some claims were even measured and staked off, but this was of no validity, and done only for convenience or to facilitate such subsequent survey as was absolutely necessary to establish and identify it.
" So eager were the settlers, who had previously remained only at the suffrance of the General Government, to have permanent homes near the Fort, that during the fore part of the night, preceding October 11th, men were stationed in all directions around, with instructions to immediately begin the measurement of claims as soon as midnight arrived.
"Precisely at midnight the loud report of a musket, fired from the Agency House, announced that the empire of the red man had ended for- ever, and that of his master race had begun. Answering reports rang sharply on the night air, in quick succession, from every hill-top, and in every valley, till the signal was conveyed for miles around, and all under- stood that civilization had now commenced her reign in Central Iowa. The moon was slowly sinking in the west, and its beams afforded a feeble and uncertain light for the measurement of claims in which so many were engaged. Ere long the landscape was shrouded in darkness, save the wild and fitful glaring of the torches, carried by the claim-makers. Before the night had entirely worn away, the rough surveys were finished and the Indian lands had found new tenants. Throughout the country thousands of acres were laid off in claims before dawn. Settlers rushed in by hun- dreds and the region lately so tranquil and silent, felt the impulse of the change and became vocal with sounds of industry and enterprise.
" A reserve of a square mile around the Fort was maintained so long as Fort Des Moines remained a military post. Part of the troops were re- moved in the autumn of 1845, the remainder continued until June of the ensuing year. One hundred and sixty acres of this reserve, including all the buildings belonging to the Fort, were afterward ceded by Congress to Polk county, and for several years these buildings furnished the county with various public offices."
The settlement of Polk county properly began in October, 1845, as prior to that time no settlements were possible except by special permit of the General Government and in the interests of the garrison of the Fort. The history of the county begins, however, over three years earlier, when the Fort was established at the Raccoon Fork and when the first white persons located there, many of whom afterward became permanent settlers of the county. There is no doubt but that the location of the Fort at the Rac- coon Fork settled the destiny of the future capital city and did much to hasten the development of the material resources of the surrounding coun- try. In speaking of the first beginnings of the settlement of Polk county, we must necessarily refer to this important event-the establishment of Fort Des Moines. In doing so, we can do no better than again quote from the admirable little work of Mr. Turrill, few copies of which, unfortu-
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nately, are now in existence. We are indebted to Mr. Simon Casady for a copy, from which the following extracts are gleaned :
"On the 9th of May, 1843, the little steamer Ione arrived at the place where our city now stands with a detachment of troops on board, who, im- mediately on their landing, commenced the work of constructing the vari- ous buildings, which were denominated the ' Fort.' The Ione was the first steamboat that had ever ventured to disturb the clear water of the Des Moines so far from its mouth. Having disembarked the troops, with their accoutrements, baggage and the military stores which composed her lading, she departed. Capt. Allen, the commandant of the future Fort, returned with her to make arrangements for bringing on the rest of the troops. In a month or two they arrived to join their comrades, a mere corporal's guard, which Capt. Allen had left, and all immediately engaged heartily in building their barracks.
" While thus employed they encamped along the bank of the river above what is now Court Avenue. Their labors were severe, and they had many privations to undergo, but a soldier's disposition grows very facile and readily accommodates itself to every change of circumstances. Their gay songs and loud laughter at evenings, mingled with the dashings of the river, and the beating of the morning drum, or the loud bugle notes, awakened to new responses the echoes of the surrounding hills, and gave the western breezes their first lessons in our national melodies. The balmy air was invigorating and healthful, the beauties of summer adorned the forests and prairies, the enchantments were profusely spread around them, all combining to render their situation pleasing and attractive, so far as natural charms could do so.
"Their number was nearly one hundred-consisting of two companies, one of infantry, the other of cavalry. All were under the command of Capt. James Allen, an officer experienced and determined, of sound judg- ment and excellent military talent. Lieutenants Greer, King and Potter served under him; the first belonged to the cavalry troop, the others, at separate times, commanded in the infantry.
"Capt. Allen's quarters were situated somewhat east of where the Col- lins House now (1857) stands. The building, like the others belonging to the Fort, was of one story, of rough logs, strong and comfortable. Within the last year or two it has been demolished to make room for other edi- fices.
"The buildings which composed the Fort were scattered along the banks of the Des Moines river, and at various points through what is now the business part of the town. They consisted of barracks for the men and stables for the horses, and were some twenty or twenty-five in number, a part of which yet (1857) remain, and will serve the curious reader with a sample of what the others were, their appearance and construction being very similar."
The foregoing will afford a good idea of what Fort Des Moines was from 1843 to 1846. The part of the buildings which Mr. Turrell speaks of as still remaining "to serve the curious reader with a sample," have long since been demolished, and we will endeavor to describe them: In one sense they were double log cabins, such as the early settlers often built, and most of our readers have heard of; in another sense they were different from the typical double log cabin, in that they were designed for a place of defense against any possible hostile incursion of the Indians. The double log cabin
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frequently found in the early settlements was two single cabins, built with their gables facing each other, with a space between equal in size to the ground covered by one of the cabins. When the roof was put on it was extended across the open space between, thus forming a court, which was useful for storing away certain furniture needed only on extraordinary occa- sions, farming implements, etc .; in addition to this it afforded a good and convenient shelter for the domestic animals in case of severe storms. The quarters of the garrison at the Fort were houses similar to the double log cabins just described, with the exception that the side of the building facing outward was built up solid, with logs, instead of having an open court, and at regular intervals in that side were small windows or loop-holes, through which the soldiers could discharge their pieces in case of an Indian attack. As remarked by Mr. Turrell, there were some twenty or thirty of these buildings, and as they were located along the Des Moines river to the Point, and then up 'Coon river for a distance, the ground upon which they were built extended in the shape of an acute angled triangle, with the apex at 'Coon Point. A towering flag-staff stood about mid-way between the sides of the triangle, the location being not far from where plow shops now stand. This flag-staff was cut down soon after the soldiers departed, and as Mr. Barlow Granger remarked when he arrived at the place, "their destruction of the flag-staff was a foolish and unnecessary act." It should not only have been permitted to stand, but special efforts should have been made to preserve it. If the proper measures had been taken to preserve that flag-staff it might still be standing where the patriotic soldiers first planted it; such a relic of the first days of Des Moines, were it now in existence, would be of incalculable value, not only as a memento of early days, but as a fixed point from which the exact situation of all the early buildings could be accurately and readily estimated.
The cavalry part of the garrison performed the most difficult service, and will be longest remembered by the early settlers. They were called dragoons, a name which was imported to this country from Great Britain during the Revolutionary War, and upon the establishment of this government was incorporated into the United States army. These dragoons kept in the van of civilization from the Ohio to the Missouri. They carried large and formidable looking swords, which when they dismounted dragged on the ground. They were called into use when there was to be a hasty march far off from the post, and many a defenseless settler owed the protection of himself and family to these brave men. They fully understood the Indian character and Indian tactics, and under ordinary circumstances one dragoon was a match for five Indians in an open and hand to hand conflict. In time of peace, however, the dragoon knew no friends and was as swift and unrelenting in administering punishment to the trespassing settler as to the savage Indian. One day his mission would be to pursue a band of hostile Indians who had left their reservation and menaced the life or prop- erty of the settler; the next day, perchance, his task would be to search out the aggressive squatter, who, ignoring the Indian treaties, had erected a cabin across the boundary line; when he found such the dragoon would invariably burn the cabin and drive the squatter back across the line.
It was one of the provisions of the treaty, whereby these lands were pur- chased from the Indians, that they should have exclusive possession of the country for three years after the treaty. The authorities enforced this pro- vision rigorously, and whenever a settler trespassed upon the forbidden
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ground the dragoons were promptly dispatched to drive him back and burn his cabin. Sometimes a platoon of these dragoons would have to ride scores of miles for the purpose of ejecting one solitary squatter and burning a mis- erable hut probably not worth fifty cents, including labor and material.
Besides the soldiers who constituted the garrison, and the officers, there were the Indian agent, Major Beach, and his interpreter Josiah Smart; the Indian traders Washington George and George Washington Ewing; Phelps & Co., fur dealers; J. B. Scott, W. A. Scott, William Lamb and Alexander Turner, who had contracted with the government to furnish hay and other farm produce to the garrison; Charles Weatherford and a man by the name of Baker, were government blacksmiths; J. M. Thrift was the government tailor, and John Sturdevant and James Drake were gunsmiths.
One of the first to arrive, not of the garrison, was Benjamin Bryant. He was at that time in the employ of the Ewings, regularly authorized Indian traders. In some explanatory notes to a poem published some time since Mr. Leonard Brown gives a list of Indian names, which he says he copied in 1857 from a day-book then in the possession of Benjamin Bryant. This book referred to was the one in which the Indian accounts were kept, and Bryant was then a citizen of Polk county in 1857, and continued to be until a few years ago.
The trading-house where the Ewings carried on their business as well as their residence, which was the first one erected in Polk county, were located on the east side of the river, still east and south of the capitol, and not far from the present residence of Mr. Wesley Redhead. The quarters of Major Beach and his interpreter, Josiah Smart, were not far off.
Robert A. Kinsay was a trader, or more properly a sutler, whose busi- ness transactions were not with the Indians but with the members of the garrison. He was not allowed to sell to the Indians as the Ewings had a monopoly of that trade, and his customers being exclusively the soldiers and government employes of the garrison; his place of business was on the West Side, near the Fort buildings. As near as can be located at present Kin- say's place of business was on Vine street, between Second and Third.
The Fur Company's establishment was on the east side of the river upon what was afterward known as Hazen farm. Several of their buildings remained for many years after the company abandoned the agency. Tur- rill says that "Dr. T. K. Brooks purchased the establishment when the agency at Fort Des Moines was discontinued. A curious and valuable relic of that company's transactions is now in the possession of Benjamin Bryant, Esq., of this city. It is an account book kept by the agent with the Indians, containing the polysyllabic names of several hundred of them, the articles which they purchased, the money or furs paid, and the price of each article sold or traded."
The foregoing statement would seem to conflict with a previous state- ment which we have made on other authority; whereas here Mr. Bryant is represented as being in the employ of the Fur Company, and at the other place he was said to have been in the employ of the Ewing's, Indian traders. We are inclined to the opinion that Mr. Turrill was wrong in his state- ment, or at least not strictly accurate. The book which he represents Mr. Bryant having in his possession as late as 1857, and the one Mr. Brown says he copied the Indian names from, contained a record of transactions of which the Indian traders had a monopoly; the fur agents could buy furs
.
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of the Indians, but the Indian traders alone could sell or trade goods to them.
Sturtevant and Drake, the gunsmiths before alluded to, had their shop on the East Side, near the agency buildings; hence it is probable that their business was to mend the fire-arms of the Indians rather than those of the garrison.
The Scotts, Wm. Lamb, and Alexander Turner, were allowed to make claims outside the limits of the Fort for the purpose of raising a crop of corn and curing a quantity of prairie hay for the use of the garrison. These were the first regular claims taken in Polk county, and were probably regarded as legitimate and binding in law after the whole county was thrown open for settlement.
Worthington and Parker, the blacksmiths, had their shop on the West Side within the limits of the Fort. Their business consisted chiefly in shoeing the horses which were used by the garrison, and the coal used by them was procured, it is said, near the Fort.
Several of the soldiers constituting the garrison, and nearly all of the attaches of the Fort became permanent settlers of this and adjoining coun- ties after Des Moines ceased to be an Indian post; hence Fort Des Moines became a sort of center from which radiated in all directions the light of civilization. Warren, Dallas, and Boone counties, especially, number among their first settlers persons who had previously been located at Fort Des Moines. J. M. Thrift, who has already been mentioned as having been attached to the garrison as tailor to Uncle Sam, as it were, afterward became one of the leading citizens of Boonesboro, and finally was Mayor of that town. The message which Mr. Thrift delivered to the council upon retir- ing from office is still preserved, and is regarded as a most valuable docu- ment by the people of that town. It is as follows: " Mayors Message
" To the Hon Town Council of the Incorporate town of Boonsboro. " Gentlemen of the Council
I submit the following report for the scal year of my term of office for the year 1867 and part of 1868, this seventh day of March 1868.
"Report of finances of Current yea according to receipts and minutes I kept of Matters of a two small amount to incumber the records with for which I have the Treasures receipt to show for all to compair with.
" these several amounts is $51.50. the mayors Book of record for which I submit as follows: first receipts of S. G. Moffatt's late Treasurer for $156.62. amount for licenses for current year 344.50.
" amount of Fines in all on record paid and unpaid $93.00 of which fifteen is unpaid and $78.00 paid $78.00, there air some other fines that was assessed by me of a small amount $630.62 that was not placed on record on account of some action growing out of my orders not being Strictly carred out-for all such I have remitted and the parties are not held for so far as the fines are concerned, those fines that air a matter of record air to be collected and no other. my Business has been strictly adhered to and all orders carred out, is a matter of record and no others of a doubtful na- ture, as for proof My Receipts and the Record will show for proof of the assertion. I would very much to make a report of the financial condition of the Incorporate Town of Boonsboro-and will some day for the satisfac- tion of the People and show the true State of the finar'ial condition of our
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town and stop the Eternal Gassing in relation to the affairs and the true condition and that published is all that will satisfye the people.
" Gentleman, our addministration in the main has been social but some. times rather spirited, for which often will occur in all bodies where men are a doing Business for the people, but those matter ought to end with our addministration, and mingle and co mingle as if the ocen of life had been as smooth with us as a calm see, it ought to be a satisfaction to us to think that we have don the best we could, lett others sa what tha wil. My Mottow threw lif is, mine conscience of itself is "rite can never No never be deraded in its own estimation."
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