USA > Iowa > Polk County > The history of Polk County, Iowa : containing a history of the county, its cities, towns, &c., biographical sketches of its citizens, war record of its volunteers in the late rebellion, general and local statistics, portraits of early settlers and prominent men > Part 34
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"Oh, lonesome, windy, grassy place, Where buffalo and snakes prevail; The first with dreadful looking face, The last with dreadful sounding tail! I'd rather live on camel hump, And be a Yankee Doodle beggar. Than where I never see a stump, And shake to death with fever 'n' ager."
As before remarked, there are two reasons why the first settlers refused to locate at a distance from the timber, and why the timbered regions bor- dering upon the Des Moines river became densely populated while the more fertile and more easily cultivated prairies remained for many years unclaimed. The pioneers were in the main the descendants of those hardy backwoodsmen who conquered the dense forests of Indiana, Ohio, and the regions farther east. When farms were opened up in those countries a large belt of timber was invariably reserved from which the farmer could draw his supply of logs for lumber and fence rails, and fuel for cooking and heating purposes. Even at the present day a farm without its patch of timber is exceedingly rare in those countries. Having from their youth up been accustomed to timber, the emigrant from these timbered regions of the East would have ever felt lonesome and solitary deprived of the famil- iar sight of the tall forest trees and shut off from the familiar sound of the wind passing through the branches of the venerable oaks. Then again, timber was an actual necessity to the early settler. In this day of railroads, herd laws, cheap lumber and cheap fuel, it is easy enough to open a farm and build up a comfortable home away out on the prairie, far from the sight of timber. But not so under the circumstances surrounding the first settlers. There was no way of shipping lumber from the markets of the East, coal mines were unknown, and before a parcel of land could be culti- vated it was necessary to fence it. In order to settle the prairie countries it was necessary to have railroads, and in order to have railroads it was necessary that at least a portion of the country should be settled. Hence the most important resource in the development of this Western country was the belts of timber which skirted the streams; and the settlers who first hewed out homes in the timber, while at present not the most enter-
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HISTORY OF POLK COUNTY.
prising and progressive, were nevertheless an essential factor in the solution of the problem.
From either side of the river, flowing in a southwestern and southeastern direction are a number of small streams or creeks. The uniform width of the belt of timber along the Des Moines was originally about four or five miles, but where these smaller streams empty into the river the timber extends much farther out. These places were called "points," and at these points were the first settlements made; here were the first be- ginnings of civilization; here began to operate the forces which have made the wilderness a fruitful place and caused the desert to blossom as the rose.
Much of this primeval forest has been removed; part of it was econom- ically manufactured into lumber, which entered into the construction of the early dwelling-houses, many of which still remain; much of it was ruthlessly and recklessly destroyed. From the fact that attention was early given to the culture of artificial groves, Polk county now has probably about as much timber as formerly, and the State much more.
Among the most abundant of all trees originally found was the black walnut, so highly prized in all countries for manufacturing purposes. Tim- ber of this kind was very plentiful and of good quality originally, but the high prices paid for this kind of timber presented itself as a temptation to destroy it, which the people, frequently in straightened circumstances, could not resist. Red, white and black oak are still very plentiful, although they have for many years been extensively used as fuel. Crab apple, elm, maple, ash, cottonwood and wild cherry are also found. The best timber in the State is to be found in this county.
A line of timber averaging four miles in width follows the course of the Des Moines river, and all the other streams are liberally supplied. De- tached groves, both natural and artificial, are found at many places throughout the county, which are not only ornamental, in that they vary the monotony of the prairie, but likewise very useful in that they have a very important bearing on the climate. It is a fact fully demonstrated by the best of authority that climate varies with the physiognomy of a country.
CLIMATE.
The climate is what is generally termed a healthy one, subject, however, to the sudden change from heat to cold. The winters, however, are as a general thing uniform, although there seems to have been very marked modifications in the climate during the past few years, resulting, doubtless, from the changes which have taken place in the physiognomy of the country.
At one time it was asserted, with much confidence, that this climate of the Mississippi Valley was warmer than that of the Atlantic States in the same latitude, but this idea has long since been exploded by observations which have been made in both regions.
From Blodgett's Climatology of the United States we learn that the " early distinctions between the Atlantic States and the Mississippi. Valley have been quite dropped, as the progress of observation has shown them to be practically the same, or to differ only in unimportant particulars. It is difficult to designate any important fact entitling them to any separate
266
HISTORY OF POLK COUNTY.
classification; they are both alike subject to great extremes; they both have strongly marked continental features at some seasons and decided tropical features at others, and these influence the whole district similarly, without showing any line of separation. At a distance from the Gulf of Mexico to remove the local effect, the same peculiarities appear which be- long to Fort Snelling; Montreal as well as to Albany, Baltimore and Rich- mond."
As this county is nearly on the same parallel as Central New York, it is fair to presume that the climate is nearly identical, provided the above be true. Yet observation shows that there is a perceptible tendency to ex- tremes as we go farther west, owing to the lakes and prairies, probably, and shows that the spring and summer are decidedly warmer, and the winter colder here than in New York. From the open country, the great sweep of the winds, and the force of the sun, the malaria from the rich prairies is counteracted and dispelled so that the climate here is as healthy as in any portion of the known world.
March and November are esentially winter months, as the mean temper- ature rises but little, if any, above the freezing point. The hottest days occur some years in July, and in other years they occur in August. Ob- servations made during the period of twenty years show that the hottest day of the year has ranged from June 22d to August 31st. During that period the hottest day of the year occurred twice in June, nine times in July and nine times in August. The coldest days occur some years in De- cember and in other years in January, while observation has established the fact that not unfrequently the coldest day occurs in February. During a period of twenty years, extending from 1850 to 1870, the coldest day oc- curred seven times during the month of February, nine times during the month of January, and four times during December. The coldest day came earliest during the year 1851, when it occurred on the 16th of De- cember, and it came latest in 1868, when it was the 10th of February. The days upon which the temperature most closely approximates the mean annual temperature occur in April and October. During a period of twenty years they occurred in no other months, except in 1866, when the day most nearly approximating mean annual temperature occurred Novem- ber 2d.
During a period of thirty-one years, extending from 1839 to 1870, the latest appearance of frost has ranged from April 5th to May 26th, and its earliest appearance has ranged from September 2d to October 23d. This is true of all the years except 1863, when there was frost every month in the year, the latest frost occurring August 25th and the earliest August 29th. During those thirty-one years the latest frost occurred twenty times in April, twenty times in May, and once in August; the earliest frost oc- curred nineteen times in September, twenty-one times in October and once in Angust. It will thus be seen that with the exception of the year 1863, when there was frost every month in the year, there was no frost during the months of June, July and August. Heavy frosts of such severity as to destroy fruit seldom occur later than April 15th; even during the year 1863, when there was frost every month, there was none of sufficient sever- ity to damage anything after that date.
With regard to the amount of rainfall, a distinguished author on the subject of climatology, after giving numerous illustrations, says:
"The array of facts here presented will, it is hoped, prove of interest not
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HISTORY OF POLK COUNTY.
only to the residents of the State of Iowa and the Mississippi Valley, but also for the dwellers upon the seaboard, as furnishing data from which a comparison may be drawn as to the difference in the temperatures, amount of rainfall, the source thereof, etc., as also their distribution through the several seasons of the year. Eastern meteorologists have been greatly sur- prised at the great amount of precipitation of vapor in the valley, over- looking the fact that there the rain winds are N.E .; here, S.W. The amount precipitated has not diminished since the first settlement of the country, and probably will not, as the area covered by timber has not de- creased with the settlement of the State, and is not likely to in the future; on the contrary, is increasing and is likely to increase with the growth of settlements in age and extent; The peculiarities of our soil and climate are such that the past decades have demonstrated that our State can endure an extreme of drought or rain with as little or less loss than any other cul- tivated region of our country."
The largest rainfall during any one year since the settlement of the. county was in 1851, when it amounted to 74.40 inches; the least was in 1854, when it was only 23.35 inches. The average mean amount of rain- fall for twenty-two years was 49.27 inches. August was the month of greatest amount of rain, and January the least.
The following table shows the amount of rain for each year during the twenty-two years, from 1848 to 1870:
1848
.26.29 inches.
1849
.59.27
1850
49.06
66
1851
74.49
66
1852
59.49
66
1853
45.78
66
1854
23.35
1855
28.38
66
1856
38.17
66
1857
39.52
66
1858
51.28
66
1859
32.65
1860
25.10
1861
47.89
66
1862
44.78
1863
33.75
1864
. 51.57
1865.
45.34
1866
43.37
1867
. 42.18
66
1868
46.00
60
1869
47.56
66
Observations have gone to show that a large proportion of the rain which falls is in this locality is accompanied by southwest winds. Twenty per cent of the rainy days were accompanied by N.N.E. winds; eighteen per cent by E.S.E. winds; forty per cent by S.S.W. winds, and nineteen per cent by W.N.W. winds, or, to sum up, sixty-two per cent occur in connection
18
268
HISTORY OF POLK COUNTY.
with winds from a westerly course. The greatest rainfall in a given length of time occurred in August, 1851, between the hours of 11 o'clock P. M. of the 10th and 3 o'clock A. M. of the 11th, a period of four hours, during which time 10.71 inches fell. The wind both days was from the northeast. The greatest snowfall was on the 21st day of December, 1848, when 20.50 inches fell; the next largest snowfall was on December 28, 1863, when the amount was 15.10 inches in twelve hours.
The winter of 1848 will never be forgotten by the early settlers. The snow commenced early in November, before the ground had become frozen, covering the earth with a heavy coat of white, and continued until the unprecedented snowfall of December 21, before alluded to, which was the most fearful one ever witnessed in the county. The snow continued at a depth of over three feet until the following February. Often there were heavy driving storms, and after a few days' cessation followed others of such driving force as to render it impossible for the settlers to venture out or to get from place to place without danger of being lost or frozen to death.
There being yet comparatively few settlers in the county, and not a great deal of marketing to be done or foreign trading to be transacted, travel was not sufficient to keep the roads open or form a beaten track in any direc- tion. If any one found it necessary to venture out any distance from home the driving winds filled up his tracks almost as fast as he made them, so that he was unable to find the same track upon returning.
The inhabitants of the pioneer cabins were completely snow-bound all winter, never venturing out except in cases of absolute necessity, and then it was at the peril of their lives, or at least of frosted ears and toes, espe- cially if they had any great distance to go. It afforded unparalleled oppor- tunity for enjoying home life in the case of those who were fortunately favored with the necessary comforts, but to those who were not thus favored it was a terrible winter.
It is said that it was by no means an unusual thing to make several un- successful attempts to get through the snowdrifts by those who by want, if not actual starvation, were driven to make the attempt.
This was probably the only winter since the first settlement of the county that the snow was so deep and the cold so rigorous as to occasion want and suffering of a general character. The year 1863 was a peculiarly cold one throughout. As before remarked, frost occurred every month of the year, and in order to be comfortable it was necessary to keep up a fire occasionally each month, July and August not excepted.
Persons who have been in the county quite a number of years say that it is very seldom that the frost injures the corn crop, it being a characteristic of the climate that when the spring is late the fall is either quite hot or lengthened so as to fully mature the crop. At one time it was supposed that fruit could not be successfully raised in this section. This is probably true with some varieties of fruit, particularly the peach. The mean time for late frosts is May 4, and the mean time for the flowering of fruit trees is May 5, and the peach being a very delicate tree, the buds are liable to be destroyed by the late frosts, even though the body of the tree survive the rigors of the winter. With regard to apples and all kinds of small fruit the experience of many years has gone to establish the fact that this region has no equal in the United States.
The great rains of 1851, like the snow of 1848, will be long remembered
269
HISTORY OF POLK COUNTY.
by the people of Polk county. Early in the spring heavy rains were of frequent occurrence, and they increased in frequency and power till the whole country was literally flooded. Small streams assumed the magni- tude of large rivers, while the larger rivers spread out so as to cover the entire portion of bottom land, and in places resembled large lakes, where it was impossible to see from shore to shore. Few bridges had been erected at this time, and most of them which had been built were washed away. The inconvenience arising from the heavy rains, and the consequent swol- len condition of the streams, occasioned greater inconvenience, if not so much suffering, as the heavy snows of 1848. At Fort Des Moines the river overflowed its banks, and a current having washed its way westward near where is now Walnut street bridge, formed a channel around through what is the chief business quarter of West Des Moines. It is said by per- sons who were then here that they had to construct a raft in order to be able to cross the street from the place of business to the hotel. Early in the summer the quantity of rainfall gradually diminished and the water in the streams subsided. The flood was at its highest point during the latter part of June, and the waters began to perceptibly abate early in July. The heaviest fall of rain during the entire season, however, occurred during the night of August 10th, when, as before remarked, 10.71 inches fell during the space of four hours.
SOIL.
There is a variety of soil, as well as surface, in the county. Portions along the Des Moines river, in particular, are somewhat broken and un- even, but the soil is productive and peculiarly well adapted for the growth of grasses. Along the river bottoms the soil is very deep and rich, owing to the heavy accretions, and there corn especially is raised with success. As a rule, the soil of the county is better adapted to the growth of grass and the cultivation of corn than to the production of the other cereals.
PRAIRIE.
This is the prevailing characteristic of the county. It is abundant in quantity and mostly of a very excellent quality. Prairies, however, are not found in this county of so great extent as in most counties of the State, and there are none in which the soil is of an inferior character. On nearly all of the divides between the rivers, and running streams, are found large tracts of beautiful, rolling prairie lands, well drained, easily cultivated, highly productive and conveniently located to water, timber, mills and mar- kets. The character of the soil in these prairies is such that good crops are raised even during very wet and very dry seasons. The soil is light and porous, so that ten hours' of bright sunshine will dry the roads after a heavy rain, and fit the plowed field to be cultivated. The same peculiarity of soil which enables crops to withstand much moisture and thrive during a very wet season, also enables them to endure prolonged drouths-the soil being very porous is capable of absorbing a large amount of water during the rainy season, and when the drouth sets in the forces of nature bring back to the surface the surplus moisture from the subterraneous store- houses with as much ease as the water in the first place was absorbed. This is not the case with that quality of soil commonly known as hard-pan; the
270
HISTORY OF POLK COUNTY.
subsoil not being porous, only a small quantity of water is absorbed, after which it gathers on the surface in pools and is then carried away by the process of evaporation; drouth sets in, and as soon as the moisture is ex- hausted from the surface soil, plants wither and die.
Along the river bluffs at numerous places gush forth springs of living water whose supply even during the dryest seasons seems to be exhaustless while good well water can be obtained anywhere by digging or boring a distance of from fifteen to thirty feet. The lakes which are represented on the early maps prove to be nothing but small sloughs. It is found that by draining these marshy places they afford the most productive spots of land. It will not be many years, under the present enterprising management, till all these sloughs will be converted into corn fields.
MINERAL SPRINGS.
There is no doubt but that quite a number of mineral springs exist within the bounds of Polk county. Up to the present time but few have been discovered, whose medicinal qualities are established, and but one or two have been fitted up for the accommodation of visitors. One of these, known as Deep Rock Spring, has, during the few years which have elapsed since its discovery, achieved quite a reputation as a watering-place.
This spring is situated on the farm of William S. Bennett, one-half mile from the city limits, on the east side of and down the Des Moines river. The water comes from the rock, one hundred and ninety feet below the surface; was found seven years ago, while drilling for coal; the coal project being abandoned on account of the copious supply of this water. Knowing for some time the medicinal qualities of the water, it has been used by many with gratifying results, and recently analyzed by Prof. Blaney, of Chicago, and the following analysis given by him:
One U. S. gallon, 231 cubic inches, contained:
Chloride of Sodium. 8.471
Sulphate of Soda. 103.241
Sulphate of Lime. 13.513
Bicarbonate of Lime. 8.922
Bicarbonate of Magnesia.
15.148
Bicarbonate of Iron
.140
Alumina.
.131
Silica. .
.265
Organic matter
.053
Total.
149.884
This is the only water analyzed by Prof. Blaney from this vicinity, and differs greatly from the many sulphur springs flowing from banks. By comparing this analysis with many springs of note, it will be found to compare more than favorably.
GEOLOGY.
The geological characteristics of the county are varied and form an in- teresting subject of study and investigation. In this progressive age and owing to the present advanced stage of scientific research, the intelligent people of Polk county will not fail to be interested by a somewhat elabor-
271
HISTORY OF POLK COUNTY.
ate dissertation upon the subject of local geology as applied to the forma- tion of their own lands, the constituents of their own soil, and the com- parisons and contrasts which will be made with other and adjoining counties. In discussing this subject we draw not only upon facts of our own observation, but avail ourselves of the best authorities at our com- mand.
The geological formations of Polk county belong to the post-tertiary and coal-measure periods, and are of the simplest character. Post-tertiary drift is spread generally over the county, and is of a variable thickness, es- timated at from fifteen to twenty feet. The bluffs along the streams are largely composed of these deposits.
The Drift is made up of clays, representing the original glacial deposits and gravel beds, besides boulders, pebbles and " sand pockets," with occa- sional fragments of coniferous wood.
The deposit to which the name drift is applied has a far wider distribu- tion than any other surface deposit. In the language of Prof. White, " It meets our eyes almost everywhere, covering the earth like a mantle, and hiding the stratified rocks from view, except where they are exposed by the removal of drift through the erosive action of water. It forms the soil and subsoil of the greater part of the State, and in it alone many of our wells are dug and our forests take root." The drift is composed of clay, sand, gravel, pebbles and sometimes boulders, promiscuously intermixed with- out stratification or regular arrangement of its materials.
The clay is always impure and is disseminated through the whole deposit; not unfrequently, however, irregular masses of it are separated from the other materials, and at such places the best material is procured for pot- tery or brick. The color of this clay when found in its purest condition is yellow, arising from the presence of per-oxide of iron; it is the presence of this constituent which imparts to brick their peculiar color.
The proportion of lime in the drift is not so great in the drift of Polk county as farther south; the proportion of sand is much greater, although it is seldom found separated from the other materials in any degree of purity; it is not unfrequently the case, however, that sand exists in excess of the other materials, and, in some cases, accumulations or " pockets " are found having a considerable degree of purity. The large proportion of sand in the soil and subsoil of Polk county is what imparts to it the pecu- liar quality of withstanding drouth or excessive moisture before ex- plained.
Alluvium .- The deposits strictly referable to this formation in Polk county, are: the soil everywhere covering the surface, and narrow belts of alluvial bottom lands skirting the principal streams; these consist of irregularly stratified deposits of sand, gravel and decomposed vegetable matter, the whole seldom exceeding ten or twelve feet in thickness. The reader will understand that the original surface of the land consisted of rock; portions of these rocks having been detached by the action of the elements, by chemical causes and the action of glaciers in prehistoric times were afterward transported by subsequent floods; this constitutes the soil and is alluvium or drift, according to its peculiar formation.
The entire county is referable to the formation known as the middle and lower coal-measures. With regard to the economic value of this formation Prof. White says:
"No other formation in the whole State possesses anything near the
272
HISTORY OF POLK COUNTY.
economic value that the lower coal-measures do, nor is there one which will have so great an influence upon its future prosperity. These remarks, of course, refer to the coal which the formation contains; for although the middle coal-measures will furnish no inconsiderable quantities of coal, and the upper coal-measures also small quantities, far the greater part of that indispensable element of material prosperity is contained in the strata of the lower coal-measures."
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