USA > Iowa > Polk County > The history of Polk County, Iowa : containing a history of the county, its cities, towns, &c., biographical sketches of its citizens, war record of its volunteers in the late rebellion, general and local statistics, portraits of early settlers and prominent men > Part 89
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Now a very strange thing 'twould be, indeed, If we had not some reputation made, For strangers who with us awhile sojourn Are dinnered, suppered, breakfasted in turn, Until they think that for hospitality And general freedom from venality, O'er other places we deserve the palm As far as does the oyster o'er the clam.
Our ladies are handsome matrons and lasses, As tell them every day their looking-glasses; And the hoops they wear hold more powerful sway Than ever Indian war-whoops in their day; And when they graceful glide along the street, Their sway of hearts and skirts is made complete.
Our youths and full-grown men-think it not queer- Can drink the usual quantity of beer; Yet though the lager suits the general mind, To stronger liquors many are inclined. Some there are who drink for friendship's sake, But more, because a drop they like to take; Some drink, because custom so has planned it; Some, because their feeble healths demand it, And some, because not able to withstand it.
Home institutions do deserve support, And that of a liberal, generous sort; But those who deal in strong and deadly drinks, Would find a more suitable home, methinks, In a place where is a hotter clime Than that of Iowa at any time; But if some general beverage there must be, Let it be coffee or the milder tea.
52
730
HISTORY OF POLK COUNTY.
No scarcity have we of brilliant learning, And some so feel the fire of genius burning, The corporation gets too small to hold them, And when the inspiration so controlled them, Would make you think if heard but for a minute, That they monopolized the talent in it.
Much to be commended on every side, With churches is the city well supplied, And better 'twould be if these churches were Only homes of piety and prayer, And if the audience listened to the preacher Because he is their spiritual teacher. But people do each Sabbath day attend, And from the year's beginning to its end, Hear the blessed truths of the Gospel taught, Of all mankind so worthy to be sought; Yet ever fail these teachings to obey, And never bend their stubborn knees to pray. There may be christians now as pure as they Who listened to the Savior every day. And some we know would good disciples prove Of him who rules with charity and love, If they were not to this opinion given: That their church is the only route to Heaven.
Society is here in all its force Proceeding in its usual curious course, And members meet with notes to be compared, Where neither the absent nor the tea is spared.
Oh! glorious thing the power we all possess, To talk about our neighbors' acts and dress, Of how he treats his wife or she her loved, How this one puts on airs and flaunts abroad, Or how some ladies, shopping in the street, Lift up their dresses to show their little feet. Or how another spends her husband's earnings, In fanciful and extravagant adornings; Of what a lesson this one's actions teach us; Of that man's wife who always wears the breeches; How Brainless would Miss Plunky's husband be; How often Gingerpop went on a spree! Farther than this it matters not to tell, Of how we use the power-we do it well. It is the custom of our society, Often seen in curious variety.
Sometimes, from the citizen's lip, does slip The opinion that little fellowship Exists among us, we separate in bands And divide society into clans, And surround ourselves with a codfish fence Only to be scaled with dollars and with cents. Yet some are pasturing there who don't possess The one quality that insures ingress. And here perhaps 'tis proper to explain How these succeed when others try in vain: They faithful worshiped at the shrine of tin, And bars were not put up till they got in.
Sometimes we see the man of envious mind Who, in some business enterprise, is left behind By one more active and of shrewder bent, Instead of working on with soul intent To emulate him in the proper strife Which makes the measure of the worker's life,
731
HISTORY OF POLK COUNTY.
To low envy and jealousy descend, And make a foe of him who was a friend, By mis-statements there and by tattlings here, By whispered venom in each listening ear, And every means which is by meanness sown In little souls with selfishness o'ergrown. Others are here who have prospered well In the train of business, in which they fell By dint of luck, and by their powers of grasping In every trick of trade-so closely clasping The coin they manage to collect together, As almost ruffles up the eagle's feather. No public spirit have such men as they, No other care except on men to prey, And in no language do they rank as scholars Save in the silent one of dimes and dollars. And these can they nose out with scent satanic, Far as their wives and daughters smell mechanics.
But notwithstanding all such things as these We'll hazard words prophetic, if you please, Predicting that at some not distant time, When our subject shall have attained her prime, The sun that rises at the dawn of day And spreads o'er all the land his genial ray, Wakes the birds that slumber mid the trees And spreads the wings of honey-seeking bees, Kisses the flowers that bend beneath the dew, Opens the leaves that hide their brilliant hue, Warms the fruitful earth with welcome light, Scatters away the chilly air of night, And wakens all around the busy hum Of art and nature from the nightly gloom, In glancing from his fiery chariot down, Will see in all the land no fairer town.
Here let us not forget what should be said: We've also built a city of the dead, Whose earthly forms repose in earthly tombs Which differ much as did their living homes.
Here in some sunken and neglected spot, Lies one by the world seemingly forgot; No tokens of affection placed around, No tree, no shrub, no flower of little cost Marks the spot where lies some one's loved and lost.
Here has some careful and some loving one, Planted flowers, the sacred spot upon, Which, when spring wakes them from their wintry death Scatter sweet incense with their balmy breath.
And there a sadder sight do we behold, The new-made grave and Earth's upturned mold, Crumbling to dust beneath the passing tread, As do the mouldering bodies of the dead. Here lies one who lived to life's latest stage, Here some that were taken in childhood's age; Some who died in youth's happy joyous time, And some who reached life's ardent years of prime; And some who aided our city into being, Shielded its tender years, no wants foreseeing, With affectionate and with watchful care, Are with our other dead, low lying there. The soil they loved, covers their withered forms Away from life's wild and turbulent storms- But one who stood by her in all the chances Which evil times create or good enhances,
732
HISTORY OF POLK COUNTY.
Died far from home, far in the western wild, With no tender wife and with no loving child To smooth the rugged path which all must tread, And all look forward to with fear and dread.
And we who live, feel in our silent souls, A saddened memory, which often rolls Its mournful waves across the chastened heart, Causing the sigh to rise, the tear to start; Checking us oft, in our most merry mood, With thoughts of sorrows which will e'er intrude To make us feel how useless 'tis to build A mortal idol with death's essence filled, For as we bow in worship at its shrine He forces us its keeping to resign.
But the dead do peacefully, calmly rest Where no cankering care disturbs the breast; Where spring awakes all nature into life, Where summer, warm, with vegetation rife, Gives vigor to the new awakened earth, And gently smiles at every flowert's birth; Where autumn blights what spring-time brought to light, And summer nourished with her dews at night, And winter, with his snowy, icy pall Away from our vision entombs them all; Where drives the rain or falls the gentle shower, Where the bright skies shine and dark clouds lower, The zephyr passes and the strong winds blow And seasons in their order come and go.
If nature's power can e'er renew again All of vegetation's numerous train- The trees, the plants, and all the tender flowers- So Heaven can those dear dead friends of ours.
And we who have each summer's season seen Earth covered o'er with beauteous robe of green, Can hope to see those loved ones once again, Bloom ever on in an eternal plain.
EARLY REMINISCENCES.
The second stock of drugs was brought to Des Moines by Billy Moore, who occupied a store where Given & Carpenter's plow shop now stands. Billy furnished the money, and a Dr. Saunders ran the store. He marked all the bottles and goods in plain figures, and told Billy, who attended the store occasionally when the Dr. was called away, that the prices meant so much an ounce, and if a customer wanted an ounce of a liquid, to take an ounce vial and fill it. One day a man wanted eight ounces of quicksilver. Billy hurried about, hunted an eight ounce vial, filled it with quicksilver, remarking it was " danged heavy stuff." There was a big trade that day and Billy was proud. The Doctor came home, glanced over the shelves, and espying the nearly empty quicksilver bottle, exclaimed:
" Where is all that quicksilver?"
"Sold it," said Billy, " eight ounce bottle full for eight ounces."
" Thunder," replied the Dr. " eight ounces! Why, it was over eight pounds."
At another time a man wanted a pound of common soda. Billy looked at the price, and according to instructions that everything was marked for
733
HISTORY OF POLK COUNTY.
ounces, he charged the man one dollar and a half for the pound of soda which cost five cents.
A marriage had been celebrated in March prior, but the license was ob- tained from another county, so that it was not strictly and wholly a Des Moines marriage.
The first pair of shoes made in Des Moines was constructed by Isaac Cooper. Though not a disciple of St. Crispin, he ventured the task. Win- ter was coming on, his children's feet were bare, shoemakers and leather were scarce. From the discarded saddles of the garrison officers he got the leather from which he made the shoes, and he has often declared to the writer hereof that he has not since purchased a more durable pair of shoes than those.
The first barber started the tonsorial art March 15, 1850. His name was John Chalmers, a Scotchman, and an intelligent and very popular man. He was attempting to fill his lamps one evening with camphene, when it exploded, burning him horribly. He was carried into the house of John Hays, who lived where Reed's leather store is, on Walnut, where he died.
The pioneer settlers were much annoyed by wolves. The dense hazel brush furnished them a good cover to approach the settlement. To rid themselves of the pests a hunt was organized, at which there was a big turn- out with every sort and kind of weapon. A large circle was formed, which gradually became smaller as they advanced. When they arrived at the des- ignated central point where the wolves were to be slaughtered, the circle was conspicuous for its crookedness and numerous gaps. In the excite- ment of the chase several hunters had got " shot in the neck" and took a rest under some convenient tree. The terrified wolves all escaped through the gaps. Farmers frequently pursued them on horseback and killed them with clubs. John Hays says he killed two one Christmas day, when he was going to Saylorville on horseback. He had no gun or club. He loosed one stirrup from the saddle and with it killed the wolves as he went.
The first shoemaker was Nat. Campbell, brother of Dr. James Campbell. His shop was made of logs and stood where Chandler & Ewing's lumber yard now is. He opened his shop in 1845 and the old settlers say he was a good cobbler.
The early settlers were frequently troubled to get flour and meal. They were obliged to go to Fairfield, and Mahaska county to mill, a trip which often required weeks, owing to the condition of the road and to high water. Mr. Cooper says he once went to Oskaloosa to get corn, took it to Parme- lee's mill, on Middle river. The river was high, there were no bridges, and he floated his corn across the river on logs, and waited over night, sleeping in his wagon, for his corn to be ground. Arriving at Des Moines, he sold his corn-meal at two dollars a bushel. It was not an uncommon occurrence to be obliged to wait several weeks at the mills for grain to be ground. The settlers would get out of flour and meal at home, and were obliged to pound corn into meal in a log hollowed out for that purpose.
"Uncle " David Norris says he, in the fall of 1848, went to Bonaparte, in Van Buren county, with a yoke of oxen for a load of flour. He re- turned with a full load. Everybody was out of flour and had no money. He loaned the whole, the Hoxie House, which stood where Harbach's fur- niture store is, taking a good supply, and most of the entire load has never been repaid. That winter was the " big snow," which was succeeded in the spring by a big freshet. Des Moines was nearly all under water. That
734
HISTORY OF POLK COUNTY.
spring a man came to Des Moines from Iowa City and set up a butcher shop on the West Side. Mr. Holcomb was the owner of a dozen sheep which ran at large on the commons. One morning they were missing, and could not be found. The next day Mr. Holcomb went to the new butcher shop to get meat, and, seeing a good supply of mutton, was pleased and in- vested liberally. While waiting to be served he discovered his sheep bell hanging in the shop, which solved the problem of his missing sheep; but the bell was all he could swear to, and that was all he saved from his twelve sheep.
At a large picnic, held in 1849, there was but one loaf of wheat bread, all other bread being made from corn.
It is generally admitted among the early settlers that the first persons who came to Des Moines were William Lamb and Benjamin Bryant. They came in advance to make preparation for the removal of the Indians from Wapello Agency to the agency here. Bryant subsequently became a trader, and, having extensive acquaintance with the Indians, did an extensive trade with them. He was accustomed to give them credit and take their notes, which were written in a book and made payable in skins after a certain number of moons. They would make their mark for a signature, and Ben. frequently said they never failed to pay when the moons were up. He never lost a dollar on their notes. The old book in which is recorded the names of all the Indians who lived about here is still in existence. Mr. Bryant died December 28, 1866.
As to the first settlers, William Cooper says: "About the tenth or twentieth of May, 1843, the two Scotts (J. B. and A. J.), the Lamb boys, Alex. Turner and family crossed Camp Creek about four miles above Tom. Mitchell's old place, then crossed Four Mile Creek between Cooper's Grove (now so called) and Thornton's and struck what is known as Agency Prai- rie, high up. Turner's family was the first family to come into the county. John Scott and Turner left their wagons at Camp Creek to find Raccoon Forks and then came to the wagons on Agency Prairie and piloted them in to the Forks. Phelps had an Indian guide. He stopped at Camp Creek, below the other crowd, and got to the Forks the next night. The other crowd got in the next morning. There were then six soldiers at the garri- son, with tents and provisions brought up by a steamboat. All pitched in putting up cabins, and it is hard to tell who got their cabins up first. It was either Scott or Lamb who broke the first furrow. The corn was planted as they plowed. Lamb sowed the first wheat and oats and the crop was good. Outside of the attaches of the garrison, Peter Newcomer built the first cabin, in 1844."
Mr. Newcomer in putting up his cabin, for lack of a stove-pipe, con- structed one of bark, which took fire one day and came very near causing the destruction of his home.
The first post-office at Des Moines was designated by the department at Washington as " Raccoon River." Prior to that letters were sent from Keokuk and the river towns by persons who happened to be coming to the "Forks." The post-office was established in April, 1846, and Josiah Smart was appointed postmaster. He declined, and Dr. T. K. Brooks was ap- pointed.
A. D. Jones writes to the Old Settlers' Association: "Having acted formerly in the capacity of postmaster, I was solicited to assist in opening the first regular mail, April 1, 1846. Dr. Brooks took the key and opened
735
HISTORY OF POLK COUNTY.
the mail to obtain his bond and commission. Jeremiah Church and Peter Newcomer signed his bond and I swore him into office. The mail was wet. I wrote the first two letters that started out in the mail. The mail arrived every Wednesday and departed Thursday at six o'clock."
The mail was brought on horseback. January, 1847, P. M. Casady suc- ceeded Dr. Brooks as postmaster and the name of the post-office was changed to Fort Des Moines. Judge Casady says he carried the mail in his hat and when he met a person who had a letter in the post-office, delivered it to them. January 1, 1849, R. L. Tidrick succeeded Mr. Casady, and the fol- lowing spring Hoyt Sherman was appointed by President Taylor. Mr. Sherman evidenced his thoroughly methodical manner in all his business transactions, by a set of well-kept accounts. Below is the balance sheet of his account for his entire term:
Hoyt Sherman, Postmaster Fort Des Moines, Polk County, Iowa, in account with the United States.
1849. DEBIT.
To balance due of his quarterly returns as postmaster from July 20 $ 70.93
to September 30th, 1849.
99.04
January 1st to March 31, 1850 149.14
April 1st, to June 30th 1850 150.44
“ July 1st to September 30th, 1850. .
143.25
October 1st to December 31st, 1850 127.75
175.59
6 January 1st to March 31st, 1851
5.01
Draft on Geo. B. Warden 66
11.82
To balance due on his quarterly returns as postmaster from April 1st to June 30th, 1851.
161.39
From July 1st to September 30th, 1851
148.76
October 1st to December 31st, 1851
100.86
To draft on E. Berger
2.52
To draft on J. Huff.
3.06
To draft on J. Houser
2.76
To draft on C. B. Jones.
4.18
To error in return for quarter ending September 30th, 1851 ..
2.14
To balance due on his quarterly returns as postmaster from Janu- ary 1st to March 31, 1852.
110.15
From April 1st to June 30th, 1852.
117.40
July 1st to September 30th, 1852 120.50
66 October 1, to December 31, 1852.
103.35
1853, Feb. 3.
To balance of draft No. 6383 on Jesse Hull
6.20
To balance due on his quarterly returns as postmaster from Janu-
128.90
ary 1st to March 10th, 1853.
$1,945.14
From October 1st, to December 31, 1849.
736
HISTORY OF POLK COUNTY.
1849. CREDIT.
October 18, by amount paid R. M. Hutchinson, contractor. $ 74.29 . 1850.
January 4, by amount paid R. M. Hutchinson, contractor
200.00
August 15, " 6
66 66 209.59
October 25, " draft paid James Thompson
148.15 1851
January 11, by amount paid John Frink
127.75
April 22, "
66
66
180.60
July 17, 66
66 66
175.73
October 20,
156.62 1852.
98.30
By extra commissions for quarter ending September 30th, 1851 24.49 66 66 66
December 31st, 33.45
66 66
66
66 66 66
66 66
July 16, by amount paid John Frink, contractor
September 30, by extra commissions for quarter ending Septem- 30, 1852 ..
26.32
October 14, by amount paid on order of John Frink. 1853.
January 1, by extra commissions for quarter ending December 31st, 1852.
43.07 60.28 January 12, by amount paid on order of John Frink to O. M. Bliss. March 19, by extra commissions for quarter ending March 19th, 1853.
39.67
April 18, by amount paid on order of John Frink, due $95.32. . 95.32
$1,945.14
The post-office was kept in the rear of a log building on Second street, a cut of which is herein published, as the first post-office in Des Moines. Quite as much in contrast is it with the elegant stone structure of the present time, as is the business of the post-office then and now. From Post- master John Beckwith the following statistics were obtained: The total number of pieces of mail matter originating at Des Moines post-office dur- ing the first seven days of November, 1879, was:
First-class-Letters.
Postal cards. 22,014
9,117
Second-class-Publications to regular subscribers. 27,435
Third-class-Transient printed matter and merchandise packages 6,413
The receipts, expenditures and net revenues of the office for the fiscal year ending June 30, 1880, were:
Gross receipts
$47,163.30
Office expenses . 9,727.22
Free delivery expense 6,279.76
Total expense . $16,606.98 Net revenue $31,156.33
March 31, 1852. 55.41 June 30th, 1852. 44.51
57.41
94.18
January 12, "
66 66
737
HISTORY OF POLK COUNTY.
There are employed seven carriers and two auxiliaries to deliver mail. There are employed in the office nine clerks, and there is one branch office on the East Side. No city in the State can show a larger and more rapid increase in the postal business, which is one of the surest indications of the refinement and intelligence of a people.
There is a rich fund of reminiscences stored away in the memories of the early settlers relating to the courts. The dispensers of justice were usually uncouth, often illiterate and primitive in their notions. One of the most eccentric characters was Judge McFarland, notice of whom has already been made. His circuit embraced nearly the whole northwest part of the State. He was holding court in the Presbyterian church in Guthrie in 1858. The Grand Jury was brought before him to receive the charges of the court. The Judge was "full," as usual. Straightening himself up, he said:
"Gentlemen of the jury. You will (hic) find the law of Iowa, in the laws- of Iowa. It is your (hic) duty, gentlemen, to see that the said (hic) law is obeyed, and that it is not violated. You are made (hic), gentleman, a body to inquire into every breach (hic) of the law, and to do this you're duty sworn (hic), sworn-sworn. Mr. Roberts, you will (hic) indict every man in the (hic) world. And, Mr. Clerk (hic), you will (hic) let Mr. Roberts have all the (hic) books in the world. You will retire, gentlemen, to your (hic)- Adjourn the Court, Mr. (hic) (hic) Sheriff, to one (hic) o'clock."
At another time he charged a Grand Jury in Boone county, in like man- ner, down as far as inquiring into breaches of the laws. His attention had previously been called to unlawful sales of whisky in that county. The Judge, therefore, determined the majesty of the law must be maintained, and he charged the jury that they must inquire into the unlawful sale of liquors, and if they had probable cause to believe that liquor had been un- lawfully sold by the dram they must make a presentment to the court, and, said he, "for your instruction (hic) I will say that a dram (hic) of whisky is a (hic) mule's ear full."
At another time, in the old court-house in Des Moines, Dan. Finch was defending a prisoner, whom we will call Jones. He was convicted, where- upon the Judge sentenced him to jail for a term and to pay a fine. Dan. arose, and suggested to the court that she had made a mistake. The penalty fixed by the statute was a fine or imprisonment. The Judge looked Dan. square in the face, and pointing through a window to the jail, yelled out: "Daniel, do you see that building over there. Well, take your seat." Dan. squatted, and smiled as he nursed his professional wrath. The next morn- ing when court opened the Judge said: "Mr. Sheriff, bring up Mr. Jones." Mr. Jones was brought in, to the surprise of Dan., who could not imagine what was to come next with his client. "Mr. Jones," said the Judge, "I have concluded to change your sentence to imprisonment, and remit the fine; for if I fine you and let you go I'll be d-d if I should know where to find you when I wanted you."
From "Uncle" David Norris, who was for several years the bailiff of his court in Des Moines, and who could fill a score of pages, several amusing incidents have been gathered.
At one time a man named Rain was arrested for stealing six hundred dollars from Taylor Pierce. He was brought into court, Dan. Finch and M. M. Crocker appearing as counsel for defendants. The Judge turned them over to the grand jury, after trial, and told them to retire to their
738
HISTORY OF POLK COUNTY.
room to consider their verdict. Just at this juncture Finch laid on the Judge's table some instructions he wanted given the jury.
"Hold on, jury," said the judge; "wait a minute." He glanced over the instructions, when he said, "Go on, gentlemen, to your room. He is guilty as h -. "
The jury returned a verdict of "Guilty," when the Judge sent the man up for five years. Dan. immediately made a motion of some kind, where- upon the Judge said, "Daniel, do you see that blue house (the jail) over there. Sit down, or I'll send you there in five minutes." That night Rain broke jail, and the next morning Dan. facetiously filed a motion with the clerk for the arrest of the Judge for helping the prisoner to escape.
At another time Mrs. Dailey, who married a man named Mitchell, who deserted her and went to California, filed a petition for divorce. Judge Mckay was her lawyer, who presented the case in the most graphic terms of desertion. Judge McFarland heard the arguments of counsel and con- sidered the matter, Judge Mckay standing near him waiting his decision, which came in this wise: "Here, Judge, take your decree, and call her Mrs. Dailey hereafter, but put her against the first chance she gets."
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